Dressing in Edwardian Clothing: Undergarments and Layers of 1907
I thought you'd all enjoy a brief look at the layers that commonly went into an ensemble from 1907 as I'm working on a long-form video of sewing the tailored jacket. The Edwardian S-Bend silhouette was not achieved by way of twisting the body, but by padding out with multiple layers. Without the petticoats and pads, the fashionable look could not be achieved!
All of these pieces are reproductions that have been made by me. They are based on original fashion plates, drafting manuals, and garments.
Combinations: literally a combination of a chemise and drawers. Often made from lightweight, white cotton and trimmed in lace, ribbons, ruffles, and pleats. This was the garment worn against the skin to protect the outer garments from the body. It was only worn for the day before going into the wash.
Hip Pad: Worn under and/or over the corset to help fill out the hips. These were often stuffed with horsehair, wool, or other springy fibers. If you didn't have the fashionable proportions of waist to hip, you simply made the hips bigger!
S-Bend Corset: Cut to accentuate a curvy silhouette with the chest pushed forward and the hips tilted back. While the waist was usually reduced (comfortably), most of the extreme appearance came from extra padding at hips and/or bust. My natural waist is 30" and in the corset I can manage 27" comfortably (I'm not squishy). So, the extreme shape you see on me does not come from waist reduction!
Corset Cover: Worn to protect the clothing from catching or rubbing on the hard edges and metal busk of the corset, or vice-versa. This era often had ruffles on the bust to help accentuate the S-Bend "pigeon breast" shape.
Petticoat: In this case, made from cotton and trimmed with pleats and lace. Others came in wool or silk, and were trimmed in an endless variety of ways. This garments helped keep the skirt from binding about the legs as you moved and provided the desired shape.
Shirt Waist: Could be worn as an under layer or outer garment depending on the level of decoration and the situation. Closures often involved buttons or hooks and eyes- some were incredibly complex.
Princess Skirt: During the 1900s short jackets came into fashion and the waistline of skirts rose to accommodate this. Many skirt styles still ended just at the waist, but the Princess skirt came almost to the under bust. In order to keep the waistline from collapsing, boning was stitched to a lining structure.
Tailored Jacket: This particular style of sleeve was found in 1907 and 1908. The general jacket style is often termed "tailored" in fashion magazines (in French "Costume Tailleur" or "Tailored Suit"). It's not surprising as the original this garment was copied from had numerous layers of interfacing and reinforcement commonly found in tailored garments.
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For everyone wondering about the jacket- there will be a longer video all about it's construction next week! It's copied off an original in Abbys collection which she generously lent me. So you'll have to harass her for more! It's definitely one of the most interesting pieces I've constructed in terms of shapes and layers.
@AbbyCox
3 жыл бұрын
*laughs awkwardly* 😬😂
@lightheidi9009
3 жыл бұрын
I can’t wait. The jacket was absolutely sublime. I have only barely looking into this time period and your descriptions were really informative.
@michellecornum5856
3 жыл бұрын
@@AbbyCox Let me just get this out there, now, on behalf of everyone who saw this, and everyone who will see this: ABBY!!!! WE NEED THIS JACKET!!!!!
@sharpduds
3 жыл бұрын
My mom would *actually* run for President if she could have this jacket.... Aha, Christmas presents?
@agimagi2158
3 жыл бұрын
Agree with everybody, can't wait to see more, it's such a cool badass jacket!
I love that women's garments were actually constructed with the shape of a womans body. As you put on each layer it simply made sense. It did not feel forced. I truly think I need to start wearing slips again. 🙂
That's lovely! It's also interesting to see how the S-bend silhouette is built up by layers of padding and undergarments, rather than the spine being bent out of shape.
I love historical style garments. But I am obsessed with the under garments. They fascinate me.
@SocialBurrito3
3 жыл бұрын
Me too, I love my chemise/shift, my stays and bum roll, all the under things! Haha Elizabethan Era clothing is probably my favorite, followed closely by late 18th century and then late 19th century. Wow I said a lot....
You're channeling "Unsinkable Molly Brown" vibes.
Man that's a lot of clothes. I have a hard time convincing myself to get out of sweatpants and into my jeans lol
I don't know if you did this on purpose, but wow did I get big "The House of Elliot" vibes with this video... 😂❤️
@rebeccaolsen6196
3 жыл бұрын
Please do an Evie and Bea shoot together 😍
It's so interesting to see what actually goes into achieving these shapes. It's all about the padding and layers! This is a great video, and I'm glad you posted it!
i just randomly cant get over those georgian double cheeked hip pads being filled with sawdust or whatever just looking at how delicate padding would become
I'm exhausted! Love the look but completely understand why fashion in the roaring 20's went the way it did 🤯
It looks so warm *as I look out my window in this cold rainy morning*
I’d love a video on how they did the laundry and what layers they cleaned when!
@athenathegreatandpowerful6365
Жыл бұрын
The closer to the body the more often it was washed. Combinations were changed daily (washed in a weekly wash), corsets, never, petticoats, not really washed for cleanliness more because they'd gone limp tho if the hem was dirty-they were washed, outer clothing was mostly just spot cleaned as needed, full on washing was mostly for house dresses and that's, again, on an "as needed" basis. Stockings were changed daily and washed on laundry day tho women with fewer pair would wash them out in the sink and hang to dry. As for the "how" check out "1900s House", ignore the vegetarian trying to live in the Victorian era, the woman is an idiot on a good day.
The way you tie ties behind your back is so smooth and almost fluid. And my mind can't wrap around how the knot works. I'd love to see a less exposed and closer up shot of that (for artistic and personal reference). Overall it's a gorgeous video! I really love the close up shots of the garments, thank you for sharing!
I didn't realize hip pads under were a historical thing... I've been wearing one to protect my bony hips from my corset boning but I thought I had just made it up😂 This is what happens when you spend too much time on costube I suppose. Osmosis.
@itsalwayshalloweenexceptwh5118
3 жыл бұрын
A 1913 book on dressmaking recommends padding under the corset to improve comfort whilst sitting. Don't know if that helps you. The book is called "home dressmaking" by mrs Jane Ford. You can read it for free on archive.org. The bit about the padding under corsets is in the first 10 pages. I still haven't gotten around to buying it but I was recently recommended "the cult of chiffon" again. As I understand it that's a dressing manual from the edwardian era. It is supposed to talk about how things should fit and which things are chosen/worn. I also used to ask myself "is this period accurate?" quite often about a lot of things regarding corsets and clothes. I've learned to think more outside the box, because I often am confronted with examples that they just improvised as well. So if it's something they had access to and it made sense for them to do it, there were probably people doing it.
@lilybloome1601
3 жыл бұрын
@@itsalwayshalloweenexceptwh5118 oh my gosh thank you:)
@itsalwayshalloweenexceptwh5118
3 жыл бұрын
You have interesting videos, I subscribed. Have a great weekend.
@magiv4205
3 жыл бұрын
All our inventions inevitably strive to provide the most amount of comfort and ease pf use, and so you independently came up with the same solution as some person over 100 years ago. Just shows that humans will adapt similarily to similar circumstances.
You've reminded me, I've got all these hand made petticoats my mum brought with her from Italy. With delicate hand finished spaghetti straps, such neat little stitches! So lovely/sentimental, but I don't know what to do with them (1940's and '50s). But with all these pieces you're showing, what you're wearing under your clothes would cost more than the clothes! Although, if they help give the desired shape, it's pretty much worth it!
Imagine having to wear all this on a sweltering day! Gorgeous craftsmanship though
WOW!!! That is a beautiful ensemble. I Love the colors and the lines of the jacket. gorgeous. Can't wait for the video about the jacket. Thanks for such great content.
I love this video, everything is very well executed! I agree with Abby, I am getting "The House of Elliot" vibes too! The Jacket is utterly amazing!
Nicole -- Absolutely enchanting. You can just about see the effect of the S-bend corset. Imagine how much washing there would have been for the laundry maid!
Weird question: what do some of your garments look like with the wrong undergarments underneath? Naturally I wouldn't want you to harm any of your beautiful clothes, but I'd be really interested to see how padding and boning make a difference, not just versus your natural form but also as fashions evolved. What precisely makes a corset from 1860 look wrong under a dress from 1910?
@mastersnet18
2 жыл бұрын
The 1869 corset would be far too short for a 1910 outfit. The undergarments, just like today were meant to work with the clothing of that time. Just like in the 2000’s when all the clothing was low-rise, the underwear was all low-rise. As high-rise took over, underwear followed. It was the same throughout all history.
That was a great video! I especially loved that you showed how easy it can be to get into a corset
I hear a background pupper lodging a complaint that they don't get their own shirtwaist...
I love when clothing has many layers I dont know why
@cityhawk
3 жыл бұрын
Probably because of the attention to detail.
I'm so relieved that we're going to see more of the jacket. I've been watching costube for a while and learning some sewing basics. When I saw the ruffle detail around the sleeve I was excited, and then when I saw it on you -- that was the strongest omg I NEED to make that experience I've felt.
That's really pretty. I've always loved the style of dress throughout history.
I love this era! Stunning! ❤👌💯😍👏
Such a cool outfit Nicole! Can't wait to see the construction of the jacket
I’m loving the sleeve armhole thing. Very unusual and distinctive.
Thank you for sharing this! And those buttons on the jacket are divine!
The outfit is exquisiete. Each piece is so beautiful.
I get so excited every time I see you’ve posted a video! My brain is hungry for knowledge and laughs
watching this in the middle of the night, the sneeze at 4:14 scared the life out of me
@NicoleRudolph
3 жыл бұрын
That was actually my dog "boofing" at a random noise outside- totally missed it in editing!
So pretty! Glorious video...and like Abby said, Very House of Elliot!! Loved it!
Fantastic. I'd love to see more of these for more time periods. Just so interesting!
oh my gosh I love the finished look, it's beautiful!
I would love to see the corset for a bit longer! I made the same one in a dark sea green and I’d like to see your workmanship ;)
That jacket looks so interesting!! Definitely a different-than-normal construction!
Very pretty! I love the color pallet.
That jacket looks so 😘 can't wait to see the video! 👌🏻
Your outfit was lovely! I'm definitely subscribing, and I can't wait to see your video about the jacket!
Ooooh.. kinda reminds of the 1980s but more elegant. ❤️❤️ Lovely!
My grandmother was married in 1904. So very interesting thinking this is how she might have dressed. .
Oooh, yum! I’m drooling! And you look perfect in Edwardian, as you do all the rest. Beautifully made, as usual. I’m grumbling at my hair; it’s falling out in chunks & has gotten horribly thin. Boo Hiss! Damned Illness! However, I’m doing better & didn’t die! Good stuff, right? Everything you put your hand to, you do very well. Talent & hard work, together. Did you grow up doing fine needlework? I love how each of you, currently or previously with American Duchess, have taken your passion & run with it! You’re all so young, but very accomplished. (I had a late start & am now 65. Hoping to begin learning lacework. I’ve been drooling over a picture of a ‘Bethan lace with supportase in The Anchor Manual of Needlework for 15-20 years. I think I’m going to learn to make it, this Winter, if my health cooperates! One should always take risks; the first attempt may not be magnificent, but the education will be invaluable. You’re only a 4.5 hr drive from where we live, but we rarely head to Reno. We do have family in Fallon, however. Perhaps, we could have lunch, one day? Living just over the hill from Elko, I often feel so isolated from others who love beautiful Needlework, etc. I’m sure there are others who love it as I do, but it’s hard to find them. Stay well & keep exploring; it’s such a grand adventure!!
Love love love this outfit
I love this, so pretty!
The lace...such pretty lace!
You look so beautiful. And that jacket! Oh wow!
Just lovely.
Thank you for sharing!
Beautiful!
Can I say my favourite garment I have seen so far on the KZread historical garments / costume adventures. That coat and skirt, just wish I was skinnier up be able to pull it off
@teganandrew8213
3 жыл бұрын
The size doesn’t matter so much as the shape and the corset and padding do all the work for that.
Gorgeous
Beautiful outfit. TFS.
It never occurred to me to wear a hip pad under a corset, it's ingenious!
Lovely, I loved the colors for the skirt and jacket, sewing looks really nicely finished too! #sewinggoals
The whole outfit is lovely and sharp. But one has to wonder if the reason there weren't too many hobbies back in those days because it took forever just to get into their clothes each day.
Perfection!
But seriously it was elegant and beautiful
Yes layers!!
A Wonderful Edwardian Underwear Reproduction!
Good job on the clothes!
I never realized that there could also be hip padding underneath the corset, was that to help even more with the silhouette than just tying the padding over the corset?
@tammywilson1638
3 жыл бұрын
I believe it's a combination of silhouette adjustment and comfort.
What’s the point of the ventilation in the hip pads, may I ask? And I love this video thank you 🥺🥺🥺
@sonipitts
3 жыл бұрын
Without the additional airflow, it gets hot and sweaty under there!
Beautiful!
Amazing all around! Congrats?
i really like that jacket.... those sleeves starting half way your back/chest look like they are very comfortable to move your arms around with instead of these stupid sleeves starting right at your shoulder and most of the time the armhole is too big and the sleeve too tight in proportion to the rest of the shirt/blouse/jacket/coat
This is so pretty excellent super cute did you use a pattern for that jacket or draft your own?
We peaked here.
Simplesmente.....Espetacular
You look like Miss Bingley from Pride and Prejudice with Kiera Knightly. I’d love to see you in some of the outfits from that movie.
I'm here 10 months late, fresh from watching your video on wool--and I am now dying to know what fabric was used for the princess skirt, it's so beautiful and drapey. I'll keep on digging to see if it was mentioned elsewhere.
da wird sehr warm im Sommer
I love the movement of that skirt. Anyone know a good pattern?
Oh love that jacket. Is there a pattern?
Noticed that the gap in the back of the corset isn't parallel. Is that because the corset could fit better or another reason?
I await your next video with baited breath, Madam.
Those bum pads looks super comfortable and give an amazing shape! Wow need some more butt in my life
You're really pretty.
"What the Butler saw"
@sisuguillam5109
3 жыл бұрын
😂
Do we know why the blouses had such long cuffs? They are lovely but was curious if it was for a purpose as well as fashion.
Can you recommend a pattern for the corsetz? Wich one did you use?
Is it possible to sit down normally with all those hip and bum pads? Also when did they go out of fashion? I’m intrigued because I came upon a 1907 dressmaking book in a charity shop and for fun am in process of sewing some of the garments. The back of the skirt I’m working on has lots of fabric and I’m thinking it might look good supported over one of these bustle things but it’s not mentioned in my book. Also does it raise the hem on the back of the skirt? I’m keen to know because I’m soon to even off the hem on my dress form and don’t want a wonky hemline.
Thank you for sharing. How many pounds of clothing is that to wear?
Are there any issues going to the loo when dressed like this all day? I ask as I am aspiring to dress similarly but worry about having to go to the loo
I absolutely love that skirt! Is there a pattern for it? I loved the video by the way!!
@NicoleRudolph
3 жыл бұрын
It's in the Cut of Womens Clothes by Norah Waugh!
@jordangilpin7803
3 жыл бұрын
@@NicoleRudolph Thanks!!!
And now I have shirtwaist envy
I noticed that you always put petticoats and dresses on over your head. I've seen others do it feet first. Do we know if one way or the is more historically accurate or was it by preference?
Oh for a romantics slice'o'life set in the teens a lá Anne of Green Gables and House of Elliot with era original music....sigh
Meanwhile, people in modern times be looking like the Pillsbury dough boy
But what did the Edwardian ladies throw on when they realized they needed to run to Walmart for a gallon of milk? 🤣 3 hours and 74 layers later...
Since this is Edwardian, is it safe to assume this is what women in England would wear at this time?
What is the purpose of the second hip pad being ventilated? Is is simply for comfort or is there another reason?
@NicoleRudolph
3 жыл бұрын
Just two different styles. Ventilated is better in warmer weather- or at least that's how they advertised it. Same as clothing sold as perforated for heat/sports today!
@ThePunkKNITTER
3 жыл бұрын
@@NicoleRudolph That makes a lot of sense! I’m currently planning my own Edwardian hip pads and was curious about the difference
2007 ?
Wtf this whole time I was supposed to wear hip pad under the corset? I don't know what is truth anymore!
It has to be super hot and sweaty in that many laters right?!?
@NicoleRudolph
3 жыл бұрын
Nope! The layers are great at regulating even in unpleasant weather. It's all natural so it breaths well (meaning no sweat unlike modern polyester things). Check out "How Hot are Victorian Corsets & Clothes" on Abby Cox's channel!
@rd6203
3 жыл бұрын
@@NicoleRudolph that video was great, and you three are mildly insane! 🧡🖤🧡
@cameronwarmerdam4251
3 жыл бұрын
Abby Cox did a video about it if you are curious
Też kcialbym mieć gorset wiązany naj mocniej nogą zaciągnięty czy nie i czy boli jak się wiąże gorset i czy i może stracić oddech czy nie XD
And now we know why women employed ladies maids if they could at all afford to.
Imagine being a young man in these times, having never seen a woman's actual body...when they pulled all those layers and padding and whatnot off I wonder if they were shocked at the shape?? Like I wonder if they thought there was more **there** there, y'know?? 🤔
What if you get super hot ?
Very fashionable