Man after my own heart, nothing better, than taking the extra time to do something right. Most will just bodge it, so I am completely with you.

@shaund3683

4 ай бұрын

I found this out when replacing a carpet. The whole thin screed had fallen into that cavity! I did what you suggested, kind of, and no indication of thermal bridging. Well done 👍

I too have struggled with this detail constantly over the years and I am an architectural technician providing construction design solutions for the builder to follow. I think it just shows that those who invent the rules based on theory have no common practical sense at all. I do commend your exploratory and logical assessment approach in this open and honest way. I still don't have an easy solution myself but I do now challenge my own fudged approach and will look again at the mechanical fixing problem for the base threshold.

@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT

Жыл бұрын

Maybe you can pave the way with a proper solution! What have you tended to suggest so far? Or is it a matter where builders end up bodging it in and thermal bridging goes out the window

@colincunningham4375

Жыл бұрын

7😢7😢

I wanted to say, your workmanship and honesty is brilliant to watch. I know 99% of the builders don't do this, and I know this as I've been around constructing for 20 years. Keep up the excellent content. 👏

@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT

6 ай бұрын

Thanks mate

I have this exact job to complete! And I’ve been putting it off too. And now I know! Cheers

If the blocks are cuts in the doorway like yours, I cut the blocks so they partially span the cavity, leaving about a 50mm gap to the outer skin. Support provided:-) Also re. the sils onto the brickwork, I set the top course of bricks back 20mm and use a short sil too.

@DavidSmith-do6ji

10 ай бұрын

Spot on! Can’t think of a better way myself…

Definitely seems like the best option here and the execution is still perfectly fine. Probably 90% of other installations fall into the bodged category.

@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT

Жыл бұрын

I reckon so, and probably more bodged than I did it 😂

Succinct and clear as ever. Thank you. Don't stop making your videos, they are great !

@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT

4 ай бұрын

I appreciate that ☺️

Iv been left by shitty contractors, 2 years on Im still looking at this detail not knowing what to do with it. It’s proper depressing me. Iv brainstormed so much and glad you listed a few. And I’m glad I didn’t rush. It’s not been done properly but il have a go now after watching this. Thanks

@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT

8 ай бұрын

I don't think anyone really knows what to do with it in all honesty. I think I've got a better solution but it's not something you can get off the shelf or anything. Hopefully one day I'll get round to production

@sheenakenyon2030

8 ай бұрын

It’s crazy, like you Iv been Googling for the last 2 years. It is mine and my dads dream sun room. My dad passed away before the roof got put on in December 2020, he was an engineer and honestly Iv never missed his advice so much. Here I am 2023 still tripping over a cavity closer & still googling to find your video! I question if the so called builders here even put the dpm/doc in properly because I have constant moisture in the cavity Itself, I learnt the hard way last year when I decided to fill it in with concrete and it just wicked the moisture. The so called builders also put dpm under the UPVC French door that too has let water in with capillary action 😂 so I’m unpicking all these niggles before I get the final floor covering in. No wonder the screed people said nothing when they came for the pour, they probably though shit she is going to have trouble. Il get there eventually. I am pleased that it’s not just me that thinks it’s all a. Bit daft not to have a clear answer. I couldn’t believe I was hearing the words tbh! So thank you and how your doors etc went in okay! Get your idea to production! 👌🏻

@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT

8 ай бұрын

@@sheenakenyon2030 keep at it, you'll get there one way or another 🙌

I`m a window fitter. This is a long standing issue. We used to normally set the windows back 130 and the doors 110 which the inspectors normally accept. Incidentally, I assume the only reason we are asked to set them back 130 is to prevent the thermal bridging that would occur where the cavity closer was not quite behind the frame. It seems to me , if as you say you are fitting insulate reveals surely this would totally negate the issue. I would say the 30mm reg. is meant more for render or standard dot n dab reveals. If I`m right, just set em 10 mm behind brick or even flush , use foam at the door end of the pir plasterboard as you fit the reveals and i really cant see an issue. As for the cill just add the thermal break and foam to suit.

Great video, something to get people thinking. What I’ve done in the past with any openings for bifold doors is build 9” off the face brickwork. Then like yourself fold the DPC down and around. Not sure if it the correct way but the building control has always been happy.

@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT

Жыл бұрын

Thanks 👍 I'm assuming most builders find some kind of work around. I'm surprised there isn't a standardized way of dealing with it that is common knowledge though 🤔

@Wayfarer-Sailing

Жыл бұрын

That would have been my suggestion, and given that building control have already discussed the concrete infill as a viable solution here I would guess they would see the logic of the brickwork alternative.

I've been building extensions since 1987, this is a perennial problem. I put it to Building Control that we have either a robust detail or a thermal break. Door and window frames are too shallow at 70mm deep. I partially resolved this by fixing door frames flush with the back of the brick in order to achieve a decent fixing and to mitigate potential cold bridging I drylined the reveals with 37mm insulated plasterboard. 25mm PIR/12mm plasterboard.

@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT

7 ай бұрын

Seems crazy there isn't really one complete solution that is widely accepted. I'm supposed to be doing insulated reveals also, although it doesn't really solve the thermal bridging at the bottom 🤷 maybe one day there will be something that resolves the problem so it can be both robust and thermally efficient. It seems the closest at the moment is using compac foam 🤷

I used Marmox Thermoblock. Brilliant stuff

@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT

Жыл бұрын

Did you use any fixings on the bottom at all?

My building regs drawings have 150mm eps in threshold cavity for supporting the floor blocks and the last row of floor blocks bridging the inner leaf on slips (with dpc) up to outer leaf.

@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT

Жыл бұрын

I think that's what most people end up doing and to get round not being able to fix the cill properly they just don't 😂 seems like they just bung a load of silicone or foam underneath 🤷‍♂️

It amazes me that all the masters degrees, clipboards, green teas and swivel chairs nobody can answer you, nor other issues. It is only by over-thinking that these problems come to bear, and you are highlighting what most clearly hide or bodge. I love over-thinking too! If you can't engineer, then over-engineer!

@christianwithers7335

Жыл бұрын

Nobody will eliminate bridging or mould, unless you build a cave with cob.

@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT

Жыл бұрын

@@christianwithers7335 the cob cave... Sounds like a plan 😂

I feel your pain with this! I'm up to the block and beam floor level in my self build and I'm finalising this threshold detail right now. The doors will be three panel aluminium sliders so the frame is 185mm wide which needs solid fixings all around. The best answers I've found so far have the frame sit on compacfoam or Marmox Thermoblock as mojonojo3 said in the comments. But I haven't seen it for myself yet. Any bridging of the frame thermal break is going to cause problems. Every installation I've seen so far with wide frames has made the same mistake; the jambs just have a return of blockwork and overhead an extension steel plate is welded to the inner steel. These bridge the thermal break of the frame. I've designed mine to have compacfoam in the jambs and a separate lintel overhead, again with the cavity filled with compacfoam fixed in. The compacfoam can take the fixings apparently. It's not cheap though so no builder is going to do it, hence the problems with condensation.

@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT

Жыл бұрын

Ooohh compacfoam 200? I hadn't seen that until now. That looks like a solution to the door threshold but looks like it's held in place by bars and the slab inside. So that means getting everything done inside first before getting the doors in 😬 it looks to be a better solution than marmox because the compacfoam has different thicknesses to make up to the right size. I was still trying to think of another solution last night and that maybe strong L brackets could be screwed into the cill from below and fixed to the back side of the outer skin, maybe at 400 centres 🤷‍♂️ then now you've mentioned it, the compacfoam can go underneath ready with bars for when the screed slab is done.

@rossmcdonald5202

Жыл бұрын

@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT Aiden thank you so much for making this video, I've just laid my beam and block floor, and this detail has been destroying my little brain for months. I've come across the same forum posts you probably have, about the slates to support the insulation, but nowhere seems to have a proper solution to the thicker outer leaf. Id even considered part filling the cavity (like your solution) and having that course of bricks running perpendicular with 50mm sliced off, but that won't work with the triple sliding tracks as they're generally fixed in the middle of the cavity. Dave thanks for your comment. I'm also going for a triple track sliding set and I think the solution I'll go for is a course of the 600*100*100 marmox laid in the cavity. I'll top up the leanmix cavity fill with more lean mix, and then these 100mm deep marmox to bring it up to the course of bricks in the outer leaf (one below the dpc). this should give thermal break to the depth of the ufh screed

@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT

Жыл бұрын

@@rossmcdonald5202 no problem mate 👍 I thought it would be worth while making the video with my work around and between that and the comments I hoped it would help people in our situation. Looks like you've found your way now so I'm glad 👍

@rossmcdonald5202

Жыл бұрын

@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT if I change my mind and go for bifolds, with fixings on the edge of the outer leaf, then I'll definitely be going for your solution, thanks again 👍🏻👍🏻

@benmason9135

Жыл бұрын

Architectural Technologist here - the Compacfoam is the best solution I've come across for deep door thresholds. Marmox is great and it can support weight, but you can't fix into it - you can fix into Compacfoam. Many door/window companies advise not to fix through base frame - one of these is Smart systems - so Marmox could work there. Yes there are lots of different ways to achieve the detail without a specialist product, but it's luck of the draw with building inspectors and warranty providers, especially important if it's a new build

To be exact here. You need to cut out the face brickwork from the one reveal to the other, and relay that section of brickwork but stepped back 30mm from the rest of the brickwork. Then, the void behind to the block and beam can be dpm and filled with concrete. That is the only way of doing this task properly. Alot of house builders do this like Barratt etc.

@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT

Жыл бұрын

Oh that's interesting. I can't find any examples on the internet 🤷‍♂️ maybe I'll have to go and have a look at some new build estates, although maybe I'd only be able to see front doors with level thresholds where you can't see it being set back

@TheZohri

Жыл бұрын

If I can suggest, instead of removing bricks and re-laying them back by 30mm, why don't you cut the bricks (thickness of the front skin plus 30) and lay them side-wise while laying bricks so the front skin is flush with the rest whilst the back gives you 30mm solid support?

Good solution I think. You are so right to sort the thermal bridging. I have aluminium windows and doors (mostly SAS like yours) in a new build...the condensation on the frames is dreadful. It soaks into the mdf window boards and into the mdf skirting that butts up to the door frames. All blown. You might want to avoid using mdf just in case, but hopefully you sorted the bridging and will be fine.

@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT

Жыл бұрын

Aha that's useful to know. Which is worse, the doors or windows? I have the deep frame windows which are thermally enhanced so was hoping they would be ok. Also what kind of ventilation do you have?

@chrisdunn817

Жыл бұрын

@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT the doors are worse due to no ventilation. Just got the standard slit vents above the windows.

@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT

Жыл бұрын

@@chrisdunn817 yeah I don't have any trickle vents in mine at all, I'll be installing a mhvr system so hopefully that will prevent any condensation issues 😬

Job done, as long as it meets the brief, limited thermal break, solid substrate to attach the doors, makes it's perfectly fine. I'd have done the same as you out of convenience, won't win any prizes for spending the extra time shuttering 🤣

@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT

Жыл бұрын

Haha what? I thought I'd at least get a blue Peter badge for shuttering and making it neater 😂

Guys, you put a PIR up stand the width of the cavity, between the outside leaf and where the block and beam floor finishes, that runs from the footing up. If your using a jabalite system you can protect the insulation over the top. If concrete block then you simply cover it with concrete. This is the tried and tested NHBC approved method. You should also be able to get specific details from the manufacturer of the block and beam floor system.

@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT

Жыл бұрын

But what about fixing the door cill?

Me as a bricklayer would put pieces of block at the return. Mass fill the cavity to top of beam then put a skin behind the brickwork so u can sit your frames 30mm back and have a strong fixing then put your 25mm insulation against the inner skin for the thermal bridging

@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT

Жыл бұрын

👍 Would you just cut down some blocks or something to an inch thick to build the skin?

@kriswild1824

Жыл бұрын

​@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT no coz u wouldn't get a good fixing into that because they would crumble. I would 65mm concrete commons in on edge. And that way your fixings would be right in the centre of the common brick

@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT

Жыл бұрын

@@kriswild1824 ah right I've got you 👍

@kriswild1824

Жыл бұрын

​@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT no worries I no u would have 65mm less insulation towards the outside in the threshold but would rather have my bi-fold have a good fixing. If your frames do sit back 30mm you are only losing 35mm of floor insulation but houses these days are insulated that much I wouldn't lose sleep over that haha. There probably too insulated n sweat air need to move around

@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT

Жыл бұрын

@@kriswild1824 yeah the way you would do it is similar to what I ended up doing. Probably the quickest practical work around. Nothing is perfect hey!

It's good to see someone else question the gap left between beam ends and the inside of the outer skin and wondered if I've missed something others know or if I was expected to just bodge it. Some think having the 150mm insulation cantilevered out over the cavity is structural & can support the screed and final floor finish but this will crack over time. I did notice that you seem to contradict yourself a couple of times. The reason you made the wall thicker was to not have the back of the sill and frame inline with the inside of the outer skin because of thermal bridging, so you wanted it to sit back by 30mm which then left the fixing problem on the edge of the brick. Once you extended the wall thickness you again mentioned you might have a little bit of thermal bridging you'd have to live with. The catnic type lintels at the heads are very cold bridging unless the extortionate thermally broken ones are used so most of us have to accept this if using face bricks. I personally think having them set back 30mm looks better outside and if it helps reduce thermal bridging it's a plus. I'd like to see more of the info on that you mentioned. Another option I considered was to have the beams at openings cantilevered over the cavity void, which in my case is 150mm, but unless the beam designer can get the beams into the corners of each reveal for each opening, it won’t work. It’s hard to explain in writing but if the cantilevered beams were inset from the reveals, then the blocks going into each corner would be unsupported and pivot when weight applied. You could add a piece of 3mm steel plate the width of the opening bridging 98% of the cavity and screwed to the block and beam tops. So 1800mm wide opening and 150mm cavity you'd use 1800 x 300mm. This would be structural. I think for ease I'll go with a similar method you used at the end, my cavity will be lean mix infilled all around but at the openings I''ll line it with DPM as you did, slide it under the DPC, then fill the cavity void with sand cement ballast mix so its flush with the top of the beams, I'll then slide some metal bars in vertically where I need the outer skin wall thickened up, and once set, use a ply shutter to do a final fill mix up to DPC height but knowing the two are fixed together via the bars, then complete with insulation later on.

@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT

Жыл бұрын

It's all abit puzzling hey 😂 maybe it sounded like I was contradicting myself as I was just speaking my thoughts out loud. I realised its almost impossible to set the frame back to improve thermal bridging without making thermal bridging worse at the bottom. So just accepted that the best I could do was improve thermal bridging on the sides and a tiny bit on the top whilst making the bottom worse 😂 Your resolve sounds good, I think that alot of these types of things are a work around. It depends on the manufacturers recommendations on fixings but there's a couple of others that are planning on using compacfoam

@handle1196

Жыл бұрын

@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT welcome to the over thinking club, they call it that but its often, dont accept the bodging way. ill take a look at the foam you mention, sometimes i look for work arounds because i dont know a certain product exists. My merchants doesnt stock things out of the norm but if theres an xps type full fill insulation that can take compressive forces its what i need to bridge that gap.

I think it's a pretty clever solution. I wouldn't worry it's not perfect. It will do the job well.

@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT

Жыл бұрын

Yeah I know, once it's covered up I'll never think about it ever again 😁

Just came across the same problem on a 90s house i'm renovating. I dont have the option of filling the void with cement because its a lot deeper than yours and the hole goes sideways. When I opened it up the previous builder had just left an open gap and the neighbours complain about their houses having a vermin problem. I've put a cavity closer over the threshold similar to the ones you have on the flank sides of your door reveal, and I'm hoping the chipboard floor which will go over it will be okay to cover the 50mm unsupported gap. Lost of heat and cold spots is a concern as the wall in this area is only half brick thick

@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT

7 ай бұрын

Yeah I reckon you'll be alright with your work around on that one 👍

Flush with the inner brick not sat back 30mm every time I put cavity closers in after. Fill with dpm and concrete is good. Insulation added is even better. If your rendering. Use 9.5mm plasterboard strips cut 100mm widths and stick them to the outside every 1000mm gap using the render then use a derby just run straight up. Smash out the plasterboard next day and fill the gaps. Well worth the prep.

@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT

Жыл бұрын

I'm pretty sure the majority of people just set the doors flush with the back of the brick/block. That's what I done last time as well. I'm just being abit more cautious this time as I've heard horror stories about cold aluminium frames. Good tip with the render 🙌 I am thinking that the rendering/plastering will probably be one of the few things I'll sub out

@E69apeTheMatrix420

Жыл бұрын

@BuildingAcerView I have never used aluminium so don't know the horror stories. You can handle the plasterong 100% spend out on the tools and DIY. can't fail if you have something to run up then it's always perfect. Just have to fill the gap already level and even once it is. Cool project. I'm filming mine may upload some time-lapse. I'll keep watching see how you get on.

@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT

Жыл бұрын

@@E69apeTheMatrix420 I've been debating between full wet plaster or dot n dab on the inside, I'm still not sure what to go with 🤔

@E69apeTheMatrix420

Жыл бұрын

@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT Probably the same cost after all is said and done. Plasteboard is expensive then you still have to fill, tape, joint and skim. Your radiator and water pipe clips will stand off 30mm though so too thick to plaster unless you chase them into the wall first adding work. If you use plastering sand 5 - 1 and add 3 in 1 render mix plastercizer. You can literally get a finished coat from the render without needing to skim coat it. Come back next day and spray water, plastic trowel it. make a very wet small mix up to skim any low spots etc. plastering sand is like butter. The window reveals are the hardest part. If you have a nice 10mm gap around your frame then 9.5mm plasterboard as a guide to run up is perfect. If the gap is tight thats the hardest job to plaster. You want it flush to the edge of the window and not past it or looks bad. Plasterboard is easyest around the window reveals. But its also crap you can put your finger nail into it?! Render its solid as a rock! also properley seals the wall! Depending on your pipe work I would probs plasterboard. You can use 30mm batten to fix to instead of dabbing. Also expanding foam but its expensive. 12.5mm for the walls and ceiling if so.

@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT

Жыл бұрын

@@E69apeTheMatrix420 thanks for the info. Definitely food for thought 👍

Just as a head up have a look at Thermoblock by Marmox (the tile board people) structural blocks designed to break the thermal bridge.

@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT

Жыл бұрын

Yeah I came across them a couple of months ago, I was thinking about starting my internal walls off with them but they are super expensive! My plans and SAP was done from thermalites, plus all of my external walls are already thermalites, so after much internal debate I decided to just go with the thermalites 😂

@mojonojo3

Жыл бұрын

@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT makes sense. I'm just doing the thresholds under bi-folds with them. But the costs would be immense if you're doing all the internal footers with them.

Thank you for this video. I am an architect and draw details everyday for a living and always struggle with this, especially trying to make it a level threshold. Do you drape the DPM down to create a tray/formwork for the concrete? I would have filled in the hole with concrete up for block level then created the upstand of concrete by the brickwork and then draped the DPM over, although the NHBC now recommend the DPC draped over all of the threshold and the DPM draped over this at the floor level. The reality of a door threshold is that all the weight should be on the sides, although this is not try for bifolds so it's crazy that there are no standard details showing the 30mm setback or a half brick setback which is my preference aesthetically and for historic buildings.

@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT

6 ай бұрын

Hopefully one day there will be a standardized solution 🤞 I would only drape the dpm down for concrete if I was just levelling it up to the block and beam floor like you mentioned. The way I've done it this time by making the thresholds effectively deeper, there isn't any dpm between the brick and concrete but when I do the dpm under the insulation I'll lap it up the threshold and tuck it in the dpc probably

One year later....if the DPM does that U shape route down between block and outer skin, is the not the possibility of moisture getting into the U shape and even possibly filling it up with water???

@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT

3 ай бұрын

Nope, it'll go out the sides. If you end up with enough water to be doing that in the first place then there's a bigger problem to deal with probably 😅 the main point of it would be to stop damp that may occur because of capillary action

@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT

3 ай бұрын

Nope, it'll go out the sides. If you end up with enough water to be doing that in the first place then there's a bigger problem to deal with probably 😅 the main point of it would be to stop damp that may occur because of capillary action

@JohnnyMotel99

3 ай бұрын

@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT Of course!! I forgot the U shape is open at both ends! Doh, don't ever let me near your building site!

I've seen this gap fill with XPS or kingspan green guard then screed over the top.

@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT

3 ай бұрын

They'd still have the problem with the cill though 🤔

@DylanGSXR

3 ай бұрын

@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT ah ok mate 😉. Just watched your updated video tonight good job 👍. I could see you where a little ticked off to say the latest 🤣. Like you said soon as you insulate it and screed it will never be noticed.

"I'm sure I'm overthinking this" said nobody ever on a project ha

@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT

Жыл бұрын

😂 Surely some people just do whatever it takes (and cut as many corners as possible) without thinking though? 🤔

Spot on… 💪👌

So at the end of it all are you intending to set the door call back 30 mm to cover the 25 mm insulation up against the concrete you put in . If so why not put you solid 25 mm insulation up against the outer brickwork with possibly a polythene vertical membrane up against it down onto foundation or as far as you can get ,poly both sides of the insulation if you so do desire ,, then create envelope and Lea mix concrete fill up to beam level. Then lay your floor insulation dpm etc and screed into the vertical insulation. All this is if you intend to set door frame back to cover the 25 mm vertical insulation. If you don’t cover that 25 mm vertical insulation when you go to get carpet fitted there’s nothing solid to fix grippers to . All this is so much easier with timber joist detail as the joist sit on inside skin/plate and will carry /span the cavity and sheet 22mm TAnd G flooring into back of cill It’s a minefield sometimes on how to overcome issues

Given aluminium is a compromise on the very best of thermal performance and it's expensive, doing what you can to ensure you get the best out of them that you possibly can seems like a sensible move to me, and you solution seems logical and sacrifices the least possible performance in the structure to gain as much as you can from the doors while also ensuring they are properly anchored. Believe me, I know how utterly miserable it is to live with ally frames that are poorly installed and which don't have adequate thermal breaks - although hopefully only for 5 or 6 weeks more as then they will be going in a skip and being replaced with conservation grade timber style uPVC.

@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT

Жыл бұрын

Fingers crossed it makes a difference. Ah so you went with the upvc in the end 👍 what did you end up doing in your bathroom? I recall you saying something about the upvc having slightly bigger sightlines

@stevepettifer4896

Жыл бұрын

@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT it does indeed, but we're going with it anyway and having a single top opening window. It'll be a few weeks yet until we get an installation date, hopefully it won't be too dark in there!!

I would of insulated the gap, got to 1” kingspan across the door for the cold bridge and got the floor in bud. And your render would stick out so wou wouldn’t be set bk that far👍🏻

I am currently trying to solve the same issue in my extension. B&B floor has just gone in. I came across "Compacfoam 200" today which allegedly insulates like PIR but is compressible and can be machined like timber and holds screws. Sounds ideal. Does anyone have any experience with it?

@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT

Жыл бұрын

I couple of others mentioned compacfoam in the comments but that they planned on using it. Haven't came across anyone after the event. You could have a look through and ask them as soke time has passed. It's expensive stuff though so you could use another material first then top it with the compacfoam 🤷‍♂️

Have a look at MR A Builders’ channel mate… they’re doing a block and beam floor at the mo, might be worth asking them, cracking lads.

@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT

Жыл бұрын

I saw their channel when his failed brick wall blew up, have had a peak or 2 since so I'll be keeping an eye to see what they do with their doors. I bet they do it flush with the back of the brick though 😬

Continuous hdg angle fixed to the brickwork cavity side face to afford fixing points - reverse lintel? ... oversize to give you the xtra 30mm fixing without closing/ bridging the cavity... quite the conundrum

@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT

8 ай бұрын

Like the angle idea 👍

I could do with that Pdf - its a problem im going to run into in about 4months

@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT

Жыл бұрын

Pop me over an email (mine is in the description)

concrete upstand? Timber upstand?

@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT

5 ай бұрын

If I 'm understanding right, I did a concrete upstand didn't I? Not sure I'd feel comfortable doing it with wood as the brick would still probably blow out when putting the fixings in

If I could turn back the hands of time, I would put 140mm blocks around the door instead of 100mm.

@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT

5 ай бұрын

😄 haha it's a shame they don't do 140mm wide bricks

Hard board insulation

In new homes generally UPVC windows and doors are fixed with proprietary straps. You don’t fix through the cill.

@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT

Жыл бұрын

But loads of manufacturers say you must fix through the cill, if you don't then maybe it doesn't meet pas24. You can't use straps on a door cill without an inner skin 🤷‍♂️

I'd have thrown some DPM down and filled it with concrete level with the block and beam, then just included it with the insulation and screed above.

@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT

Жыл бұрын

How would you have secured the door cill? Or would you not set the door back 30mm into the cavity as per regs

@NeonXXP

Жыл бұрын

@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT The screed would be level and butted up to the outer course. 30mm isn't far to set it back,. Just have to consider the 20mm insulation upstands and the depth of he screed when fastening. We did this when we put a patio door in where a window once was, and it was fine.

@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT

Жыл бұрын

@@NeonXXPso did you manage to get a fixing in the back of the brick or wasn't it that close on your cills? I think some people don't use mechanical fixings and just bed them on a load of silicone but I'm not sure if that's any good 🤷

@NeonXXP

Жыл бұрын

@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT It wasn't that close. Most of the load is taken by the side fixings anyway. I drilled a down and put a few hammerfix in the bottom just to keep it seated. My doors had a recess in the frame to accommodate this.

@DNortonism

Жыл бұрын

Yep seems ok to me

Mr A builders ,todays episode just dealt with that one if your wondering what to do

@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT

Жыл бұрын

Yeah I watched that to see what they done. They didn't set the door back into the cavity by 30mm though so didn't tackle it the way that I did. I guess that's what most builders do and then fill the edge of the block and beam floor with whatever is going spare like they did.

👍

im a third of the way through......i feel your pain I'm staring down the same problem. for all the passive yada yada, don't do this don't do that for the life of me I can't find detail that solves this issue. It's a right can of worm's aye.

@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT

10 ай бұрын

I'm thinking most people either don't set it back or do and don't use any fixings on the bottom 🤷

Essentially in the UK you are buggered, elsewhere we have thermally broken thresholds that sit down into the cavity - its a rigid style foam (its like plastic) that's structural with a profile routed into it that matches the cill.

@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT

11 ай бұрын

Any chance you could post a link to what you're describing here?

@Swwils

11 ай бұрын

@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT P.S. I really feel for boots on ground in the UK dont get paid or provided anything to actually sort this.

@Swwils

11 ай бұрын

@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT My comment disappeared will email you!

@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT

11 ай бұрын

@@Swwils appreciate it 👍

@Swwils

11 ай бұрын

@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT did you get it ok?

Drawing looks pretty but is actually useless. How to screw thru the edge of the brick?k

@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT

Жыл бұрын

Exactly 😬

@sriraamp4114

Жыл бұрын

@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT The problem is, even in my country the architects don't have a good idea of the difficulties of the craftspeople. They just make pretty drawings.

@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT

Жыл бұрын

@@sriraamp4114 😂

by the time the door and floor goes in and plaster on the walls no one will know and it is better than doing nothing

@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT

Жыл бұрын

🙌 You're right

Weird how everyone watches the same KZread channels

@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT

Жыл бұрын

Haha yeah but I need a bigger crew to come over from them other channels. The algorithm puts my video infront of too many people that aren't interested in diy and building so I need more subs and viewers to give it a bigger sample size 😬

I don’t know why the threshold can’t all be flush. Don’t have that horrible step then 🤷🏼‍♂️

@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT

Жыл бұрын

Suppose it's to do with water ingress risk 🤷‍♂️

@TheNinja691

Жыл бұрын

@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT hmmm, can’t see that’s the reason, I’ve seen plenty of builds where the cill of the door frame sits on the floor plus the cill would extend the brickwork throwing the rain away anyhoo. 🤔

@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT

Жыл бұрын

@@TheNinja691 maybe it's the lack of knowledge and or competence of how to do it properly? My structural warranty inspector is abit of an arse with these things so I am happy to just step up through the door rather than have an argument 😂

@TheNinja691

Жыл бұрын

@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT 😁

Let’s go back to krittal windows with 50 mm cavity with no insulation…….. you’ll never get mould again ⛄️⛄️⛄️⛄️⛄️⛄️

You never , never fix through the cill .

@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT

Жыл бұрын

Do you just use a couple of tubes of silicone? Even if the manufacturer states the cill needs a direct mechanical fix?

@paulbackhard6315

Жыл бұрын

@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT i foam them down .

So you are just google pro ,thermal bridging ? just install 100mm rigid insulation problems solved .

@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT

Ай бұрын

How would you then fix the cill?

@aragon1ize

Ай бұрын

@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT WOOD ONE ?

@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT

Ай бұрын

​@@aragon1ize it's not a great idea to have wooden bifold doors. I'm guessing you didn't actually watch the whole video

@aragon1ize

Ай бұрын

@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT you don't get it you still need to learn but I advise you not from google or you tube , wooden door you didn't get that ?

@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT

Ай бұрын

​@@aragon1izeI think we are on totally the wrong page. You will see a professional window fitter in the comments state that this has always been a problem. The building regulations state that the frame must be set back 30mm into the cavity because of thermal bridging. The manufacturer states that the cill must be mechanically fixed through a certain point. If you set the frame back 30mm you can't fix through at the back of the brick. It's nothing to do with me learning or not learning through Google. What you have stated in your initial comment makes no sense at all, so I gave you the opportunity to explain what you are talking about but clearly you don't know what you are talking about. So let's just leave it there

Sorry, I don't understand the problem. Not because it isn't important but my little brain cannot cope. It is quite a specialist topic.....albeit very relevant in the current climate for super insulating houses. I expect most builders &window installers wouldn't even bother....what the customer don't see, don't worry them. Problem you are the architect, installer and customer all rolled up in one. PS why don't you design a product that can solve this issue, then sell the design to a building supplier to manufacture it and you get commission?

@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT

Жыл бұрын

Humm that sounds like a plan, I'll have to dedicate some time to trying to find a better solution 🙂

@Sean006

Жыл бұрын

@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT You probably have enough on your plate already. 🤔 You must be good at juggling!

@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT

Жыл бұрын

@@Sean006 spinning plates! 😂 Although if I was that good at it I'd get more done 😬

Over engineered jobsworths, justify thier jobs

@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT

2 ай бұрын

😆