Top tip regarding the jackstand location. Thanks for sharing. I imagine it’s probably a good idea to get them all perfectly level with each other.

Great tip on using the digital angle finder to find the angle of the cut.

Howdy folks at Redline, Great video. Just what I'm looking for. I've got a '63 impala that I'm looking to put on a rotisserie as one of the primary cross floor braces (side to side right under the front of the front seat) has rusted off from where it connects to the the major chassis channels that run the end to end under the door sills. Since the brace was rust loose from the main channels all I need to do was cut the spot welds between the brace and the floor pan and, presto, the brace was loose but trapped. In order to get the brace out and the new one put in place I need to separate the body from the frame. So I figured while I've gone this far I can pull the frame out from under the car and work in it tops down rather than laying on my back. And with the body off the frame why not put it on a rotisserie so to make the welding much easier. In addition to this brace, the front floor pans on both the driver's side and passenger side had holes rusted through so I've removed those and have the replacements fitted and ready to weld in place. But, again, this will be easier to do on a rotisserie. Since I'll be working with only the body (no frame, running gear, suspension, engine, etc.) I figure things won't weigh too much. So I need a recommendation on a rotisserie model that would suffice. Also, what about bracing? This vid is about building an endo skeleton. Is that necessary? Or can I get by with door braces? I plan on removing the doors as well. The endo skeleton wouldn't be hard to build but if I can avoid the weld clean up after it is removed it would save time. The door frames in my car are solid as is most of the car. The rest of the floor pan is great, sides are great. Inner fenders in the back are solid. I may have one body mount bracket in the back the needs to be replaced as well. But over all the car is solid. Any help on these questions would be much appreciated. I can give you a call but I wanted to give you some preliminaries before I do. Thanks.

@RedlineStands

3 жыл бұрын

First things first, watch this: kzread.info/dash/bejne/go2JpbusmtLOhLg.html Next, Do you need to build an endoskeleton? Depends, if you're removing big things like the floor pans, rear quarters, or roof, then yes. If not, then no and door braces will be fine. Be sure to remove the glass or you might bust it as the car rotates and twists a tiny amount. I can tell you this, everyone has more rust than they think. The things don't just rust here or there, they rust everywhere. My advice is to media blast the car while you have it on the rotisserie. Doing so will show you with certainty where your rust is at and where things need work. You're going to find rust you didn't know existed because the media blaster will take those spots that are super thin and blow them through, leaving holes. If you decide you want to do an endoskeleton, then I need to make a video showing you how I did mine. Either move it inboard so it doesn't interfere with the insides of the doors, or fabricate plates that bolt up to the hinge bolts and striker, and then weld your braces to those plates. Don't do as I did and weld them directly to the inside door jams. Call me Monday after lunch at Redline and we'll talk. Thanks!

Very good dude!And now!How you gonna make the job done from the inside?!You re kinda of an indian cortotionist don t you?!😂😆😄

Im doing 67 hardtop myself trunk floor package tray divider and all the floors and i mean all

Do you think I need to brace a car if I just want to flip it to paint the underside? The entire body is solid and has already had all the body work done.

@RedlineStands

3 жыл бұрын

Assuming it's a convertible, then it's mandatory. The glass must be removed for sure or you're asking to bust it. Assuming it's not a convertible, then you're probably okay. Just bear in mind, I'm using the word "probably." If I'm wrong and you distort the car, it'll be hell to pay when you proceed to reinstall the glass and realize the body is warped. Consider just using a set of door braces. www.redlinestands.com/catalog/shop-equipment-c-327/automotive-c-327_328/rotisseries-c-327_328_212/redline-auto-body-door-frame-braces-p-1157

Great video. What gauge 1" square tube did you use? KJ

@RedlineStands

3 жыл бұрын

17g

Did the braces get in the way or did you weld everything back in from the bottom only?

@RedlineStands

2 жыл бұрын

They definitely got in the way. Not sure about your weld question. Please note that I later tore this endoskeleton out and re-did it. I did it wrong here. It should have never been inside the door jams.

@cmez7077

2 жыл бұрын

@@RedlineStands Ok, I will look at the other video. What I was asking about the welding was are you going to weld the floor pans in from the bottom since the brace bars make it where you cant really get inside of the car but you probably rectified that in the other video. Also, thanks for the reply and great videos. I was actually watching your 2 post lift video from 2014 this morning.

@RedlineStands

2 жыл бұрын

@@cmez7077 Copy. Haven't decided from where I'll weld the floor pans yet.

@Peter-ff1tp

Жыл бұрын

@@RedlineStands Where should the skeleton have been welded to if not the door jamb? Do you skip the door entirely and just go corner to corner across the interior?

@RedlineStands

Жыл бұрын

@@Peter-ff1tp I recommend the inside of the car right next to the jam. Anywhere so that the door opening is strengthened, so long as you can still install a door and open/close it.