After the big Texas freeze, I had to replumb my entire pad. No one was available to do it. Only AFTER I finished did I learn the difference between the proper fittings and DWV. Cripes, I had to tear it all apart and do it all over! I did learn how to rebuild and repair pumps and motors and plumbing, ultimately. In a sense the freeze did me a huge favor. I now do all my own maintenance and strive to do it properly and professionally. Prior to that, I never even looked in my pump house😅

Thanks for the video and tip ,works great

One of my saddest favorites was walking into an equipment room on back of cabana. They had rough stacked all the pipes to about 3.5 feet above the floor before the slab was poured. The equipment installer did not cut any of the pipes down to proper elevation. Clearly, the installer had never done a pool before. But I have found something that worked on those slow drips at a fitting. LOCTITE makes a 2-part marine epoxy, (in paint section at HD). I used it out of desperation a while back. It was on an older model MiniMax heater. The flange where the pipes connect was not threaded, no unions. Pipes glued directly into the flange. The old flange broke, so being a high dollar part, I was super careful to get pipes glued into the new one right. But I ended up with a slow drip...and a stream of high decibel profanities coming out of my mouth. That epoxy did the trick. I have kept it on my truck ever since. I can't say it works on all applications, but for less than 10 bucks, definitely worth a try.

As I watch great wealth of information thinking “I can build my own pool??”

Can you put ant killer "over and out" UNDER a pool liner when installing a new pool

I'm a little befuddled about cpvc needed for the pump connections because of heat. If we have a normal flow, won't the water easily carry away the heat? I wouldn't have this question if I could find the cpvc fittings. Great videos, Steve.

I'm not a pool person but fixing my system. I understand your points. I did some 45 degree work (under ground) and that created some interesting challenges measurement wise. In anycase, that's done now. QUESTION1 : Another person suggesting clear PVC Cleaner, then Clear Primer and then generally the glue is clear anyway. Clear seemed like a good idea. Any disagreement? QUESTION 2: I just plumbed about 8 feet of pipe from the existing pump location to the new. I did not realize there is glue for Drain and stronger glue for Pressure. I've since bought the heavy duty stuff. Think I'll have an issue with the 8 feet I already completed? Frankly, I'm not changing now anyway but was interested in your thoughts. I did use the Pressure pipe with the wider secure area's.

AWESOME

I know it’s off-topic but, what are your thought in adding fire features to or nearby your swimming pool (propane lines, etc).

Anyone know a good place to purchase the high temp threaded male union adapter?? 😅

Hey Steve, love your channel! I recently paid a company to install a new Hayward variable speed pump, and had a terrible experience. There was clearly a suction leak and I identified the leak myself using the garden hose method and found it was the male adapter on the pump intake. I made them aware, they came back to fix it, and once again I had a leak on the same fitting. I ended up fixing myself. I cut out a chunk of pipe and removed the male adapter, replaced with a 2" Union (mip x slip) and reconnected with a coupling. And voila....no leaks!!! Now with my newfound confidence in pool plumbing, I want to cut out a bunch of sloppy TigerFlex that my sand filter is plumbed with. I also need to replace some stuff on the Multi-Port Valve at the same thing....but my question is can I just use Unions going right into my sand filter for the in/out ports? Most of the setups i see online show a male adapter going into the filter, then a small chunk of pipe, then a union. Is there a specific reason for this, or am I ok threading Unions right into the sand filter?

@Swimmingpoolsteve

11 ай бұрын

Ypu can thread a union male adapter into a filter head, that is no problem.

Maybe this comment will help someone in the future: most home improvement stores do not carry 2.5" sch 40 pvc or fittings, so while 2.5" in sounds great, you can't fix it in a hurry, since you'll have to order it online for ridiculous prices.

Hey Steve , thoughts about the “new” style of pool lights, the small pentair ones that are the same size as a return fitting? We used to use the big ones with the rubber gasket and the steel light niche. I think they look better but they tend to keep leaking. Was wondering your opinion, and what you’d say is the best pool light, as far as easiest to install, and what you’d say the best pool light is from the customers perspective, aesthetically? Thanks again! Ari from CT

@Swimmingpoolsteve

11 ай бұрын

I like nicheless lights for accent lighting. I prefer larger LED niche style lights for the main pool lighting. Also, note that metal niche lights serve as a water bond and if ypu have nicheles lights or non metal niche lights ypu may need to add a water bond, like in the skimmer, to meet electrical code for the point of water bond. Note, all lights are a known leak and failure point. New lights, old lights, I am hard pressed to point to any one particular style or brand that is any better than the rest. Proper installation matters a lot when it comes to lights

Hello Steve I'm planning on installing a new Hayward VS pump . I have an Intermatic Timer control box , how do you recommend wiring the pump in ? Would you eliminate the box and what about the timers wiring , would you pull it out ? I want a clean sanitary looking install . Thanks for your great videos .

@mayorb3366

11 ай бұрын

Keep the timer where it is, if you removed it, you'd still need a junction box there anyway. Verify that timer is 220 VAC, model T104 Just shut off breakers and wire the pump to the LOAD posts on the timer (where old pump was wired), and the ground to the green wires. Remove all trippers from timer. Switch timer to ON position. That way you can use timer to shut off pump temporarily while cleaning basket, etc...

@whip-its_dad4239

11 ай бұрын

Thank you . An electrician will be doing it that installs pool equipment so now at least I can tell him what I want . Hopefully he will already now how .@@mayorb3366

I have a union coupling that was over tightened and it has a crack in it, but there isn’t any pipe left to cut it out and install a new one. And the pipe is connected to all of the automation valves to the pool equipment. I’d have to replace a bunch of stuff. I’ve seen some videos of people heating up the pipe and removing the old pvc pipe and saving the fittings.. have you done that before?

@AidanSkoyles

11 ай бұрын

Don’t do that. It will leak

@hahahahahaw9owwowowo

11 ай бұрын

Split nut union.

@paulhuddas8290

11 ай бұрын

I didn't know they made such a thing. Much better idea!!.

Has anyone ever plumbed a cold plunge in with a pool? Not for constant running, but to cycle the water from time to time for cleaning the plunge?

Do you have a vendor and product # for the high temp fitting you showed? Thanks!!

@Swimmingpoolsteve

11 ай бұрын

Praher and CMP both have options. Here is a part number for a 2" high temp union male adapter 200-906

I just saved my in-laws from using some kind of tape to wrap around their drain pipe. Funny thing it wasn’t even where the leak was.

Interesting black 11:01 .. oh ok high temp . Still seems break rules from earlier..

@Swimmingpoolsteve

4 ай бұрын

Black non pressure ABS is different than black pressure rated CPVC.

If it “never worked”, then how are you ever seeing it?

Your videos are great but you’re 4 years too late.🙁 You also didn’t explain about the proper glue (blue) to use or why you chose to use the type of fittings used in your classroom. Good information.

mr bullshitter nonsense