I view a lot of KZread videos...........and I mean a LOT! The author of this post is one of the most knowledgeable, patient and helpful (and nice) that I have ever read. Good on you!!!

@btprestorations7499

Жыл бұрын

Thanks, Ken! 👍

One of the best instructional videos on diy plating. I am going to give it a go with tri-ethanolamine as a brightener

Thanks for this video - will definitely try this.

Thanks so much for posting this! Detailed info on bright zinc plating is hard to come by.

@btprestorations7499

3 жыл бұрын

No problem! Sorry for not replying earlier, I'm a bit new to all this.

Very helpful and informative video. Thank you.

Thanks for sharing this, it seems the Alkali method uses materials that are easier and perhaps cheaper to get here in the UK. I will be giving this method a go shortly. Thanks again.

Thanks for taking the time to film and edit this excellent resource. This is the content that keeps me learning. Cheers!

Your a legend. I achieved similar results to you and found this bright plating takes the yellow chromate conversion beautifully. I was stuck polishing parts and getting crappy results with an acid bath. Acid sulfate bath was shadowing really badly as well, captive washers wouldnt even be plated. Allen head screws were not plating inside. It was a joke. The alkaline bath is far superior. I was able to track down the pheonix liquid flocculent online, but nobody sells it to the public. I went through hours of msds and the closest i could get were more dilute aquarium flocculents, even then they had aluminum as well as the correct polyamine. I made an inquiry to phoenix and they informed me Doheny pool chemicals resells their product. In the US, Dohenys Extra Strength Flocculent is what you want. It works. One mistake i made right of the bat was using a lower current. I thoughf my result would be brighter but i found you need a pretty decent amount of gas forming on the cathode to indicate theres enough current. I followed with soraying the part in distilled water then 5 seconds in dilute H2SO4. Then distilled rinse again then 25 seconds of chromate and rinse with hot tap water and blowndry with compressed air. Results as good as the commercial shops. THANK YOU.

@btprestorations7499

2 жыл бұрын

Excellent! Glad it worked for you.

@ramp7t

2 жыл бұрын

So if understand this correctly, Dohenys Extra Strength Flocculent is being used as the brightener? Instead of Blue Trivalent you are using a yellow chromate?

@sompka1

2 жыл бұрын

@@ramp7t Yes. Also make sure you get high quality NaOH. My second batches werent and requiring huge amounts of brightener due to using low quality NaOH. First batch was "food grade" NaOH and i had zero proble s.

@ramp7t

2 жыл бұрын

@@sompka1 Is Blue Trivalent Passivate available in North America? Striking out finding any.

Thank you for your replies. can't wait to see your next videos.

Thank you for this video!

Your idea here is great I know it will work

Cool! Thanks for responding so quickly. I have since done my research and found this similar information. so I'm on the right track. I am approaching a product reseller for the maintenance of swimming pools and I am looking for this magical product. Another question, what do you use to Chromate?

@btprestorations7499

Жыл бұрын

No problem! I bought the chromate from a local plating company that sells to the public. Unfortunately, they don't ship overseas but I found a place that does: www.gaterosplating.co.uk/product-page/zinc-passivate-clear-blue Shipping to France is very expensive so you might be able to find somewhere more local that sells similar things. Good luck!

thank you for this. I got some really good results right off the bat using the alkaline bath after fucking around for a long time with chloride sulfate and acetate plating baths. I couldnt find the sparkle brightener you used but I had good results using triethanolamine instead which is easy to buy off amazon or ebay

Nice Video. It's nice to see a different solution that has a brite finish rather than the usual dull finish that requires polishing. I'm wondering why you didn't just use the positive directly on the zinc , and then negative on the part to be plated? Would this work as well, or would you need to run it awhile to generate enough zinc in solution before attempting plating? What does the Blue Trivalent Passivate do to the end product?

@btprestorations7499

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for your comment! The zinc generator is there to address two potential problems with this type of plating when using 'live' zinc anodes. The first is the difference in anode and cathode efficiencies. The anode efficiency will be close to 100% i.e. nearly all the current will be used to oxidise the zinc metal to zinc ions. However, the cathode effiency might only be 60-70% because the current there is used to not only reduce zinc ions to zinc metal, but also hydrogen ions to hydrogen gas. This leads to a buildup of zinc in the solution which will eventually affect performance. The second is anode polarisation. This is where the zinc ions are produced faster than they can dissolve and form an insoluble oxide/hydroxide film on the anode. You can tell it's happening because the voltage increases rapidly to maintain the current through this insulating layer, you get a lot of gas and very little zinc deposited at the cathode. You can prevent this by increasing the size of the zinc anode to reduce the current density. However, to be honest the zinc generator is too small to produce zinc ions at a high enough rate to be effective on this scale. When I do it again I'll probably opt for a mixture of live steel and zinc anodes which should address both of these problems. The Blue Trivalent Passivate is there to protect the zinc. Being quite a reactive metal, it will eventually oxidise in the atmosphere and turn a dull grey. The BTP reacts with the surface of the zinc producing an insoluble film that keeps the zinc bright.

@krcari111

10 ай бұрын

@@btprestorations7499 That sounds interesting, what do you think the bast way to do two anodes would be, zinc electrode on one side and mild steel electrode on the other side of the bath? Maybe just connecting your ''zinc generator'' to the anode would do the trick? I'm considering plating multiple parts at once, so I think this zin/steel anode would be the best option for me.

@btprestorations7499

10 ай бұрын

@@krcari111 It's best to try to space steel and zinc anodes evenly around the part but for a small bath with adequate agitation it shouldn't really matter. I haven't tried connecting the zinc generator so I don't know what will happen.

@btprestorations7499

10 ай бұрын

@@krcari111 It's best to try to space steel and zinc anodes evenly around the part but for a small bath with adequate agitation it shouldn't really matter. I haven't tried connecting the zinc generator so I don't know what will happen.

Warming the water made the blending of the sodium hydroxide and zinc oxide very smooth and quick, my question now is the citric acid did you use food grade, lab or descaler. I picked up descaler but when I looked up the msds it also sulfamic acid in it any ideas?

@btprestorations7499

2 жыл бұрын

I use food grade. I can't say whether descaler will work or not.

Can you provide any more info on the brightener? What makes a product with this particular CAS# special? Would any other pool flocculant work? Thanks.

@btprestorations7499

3 жыл бұрын

Hi, I think as long as it's a polyamine with nothing else added, then there is a chance it will work. If it's aluminium sulphate based or anything like that, then it almost certainly will not.

Hello, and thank you for this great tutorial. I've been trying to get this shiny zinc result for quite a while but without success. what I understood from the citric acid and polyamine additives is that one is used for leveling and the other for obtaining shine. and that's where I have a problem since I'm in France and I don't know where to find the sparkle; I know it's a water clarifier but nothing more. can you help me in my process?

@btprestorations7499

Жыл бұрын

Hi, the citric acid may not be necessary. I found in early trials that the plating would work perfectly to begin with but would start to develop black streaks after a while. The citric acid stopped this happening. The polyamine is the most important ingredient. It's called 1,2 Ethanediamine polymer with (chloromethyl) oxirane and N-methylmethanamine (9CI). Look out for CAS number 42751-79-1 on Safety Datasheets for local products.

Excellent tutorial. Any guidance concerning solution temperature vs. plating finish, e.g. ambient, 20C, 20-40C, etc... Also any guidance concerning a starting point for current/area, e.g. 0.1 amp/sq. in or 0.2 amp/sq. in, etc... Thank you

@btprestorations7499

2 жыл бұрын

I haven't really investigated temperature too much. It seems to work at ambient. As for current density, 3 amp/dm2 is about 0.2 amp/in2 and seems to be about optimum.

A question when you say deposited versus replenished im tjhinking we should just add more generators like 3-4??

@btprestorations7499

3 жыл бұрын

Yup, that should work too.

Can you give more details on the Sparkle pool chemical you used as a brightener? Looking for some comparable product in the US. Thanks

@btprestorations7499

3 жыл бұрын

Hi, the chemical your looking for is "1,2-Ethanediamine, polymer with (chloromethyl)oxirane and N- methylmethanamine" with CAS number (unique identifier) 42751-79-1. If you google "phoenix liquid floc" this seems pretty much identical to Sparkle and is available in the US. In any case, you can use the CAS number to check safety data sheets if they're available to confirm composition. The data sheet for Sparkle says it has a concentration of 25-55% so you may need to adjust the amount depending on what you can get hold of.

@sompka1

2 жыл бұрын

Dohen'ys Extra Strength liquid flocculent IS the phoenix product. Pheonix sells to distributors.

I’m not that high with64.7?per gallon/3.78 liters but like you say it accumulates so I’ll go back to the starting point dump the solution and back to using the steel grates and also how much sodium hydroxide I believe you said 120 gram per liter and was I too high on citric?

@btprestorations7499

2 жыл бұрын

Yes, 120g/l of sodium Hydroxide. The amount of citric you have is fine too.

Do you know or have you ever tried using a tumbler to remove Grey and after I polish can I dip in the passivating

@btprestorations7499

2 жыл бұрын

Hi. I've never tried using a tumbler. I've only tried rubbing with steel wool. In any case, as long as the surface stays free of grease, you should be able to passivate without a problem.

Thank you for your patience here do you have a recommondation on how many zinc strips I should use I’m using2

@btprestorations7499

2 жыл бұрын

Surface area is more important. Your total anode area should equal the surface area of the work. 70% of the anode area should be zinc and 30% steel. The anodes should be evenly spaced around the work.

Thanks for sharing this information I tried this, following the same steps except for the water clarifier. the electroplating process went good for the first minute afterwards a foamy layer of a dark grey substance was formed (a layer easily removed by rinsing with water or even rubbing gently) after removing from the solution dipping in dil HCL then dipping in the passivation solution, the whole zinc layer was removed. Can you help me identify what went wrong there ?

@btprestorations7499

3 жыл бұрын

Hi, the water clarifier is the single most important additive. Without it, the zinc deposit will be dull, grey and spongy and will not adhere properly to the part being plated. It sounds as though this is what has happened to you. Hope this helps!

@mohamedfekry758

3 жыл бұрын

are quaternary ammonium salts a suitable clarifier ?

@btprestorations7499

3 жыл бұрын

I haven't tried any quaternary ammonium salts so I don't know. Sorry!

Hi there thank you for the brief explanation. I ordered my chemicals according to your instructions. I just want to ask a simple question for not to blow my house to sky :) Is it possible to mix together all dry powder type chemicals in a seperate container and add the proper amount to "lets say 1 liters of distilled water at the same time instead of weighing and putting everyone of them one by one and stir them for 5 minutes individually. or do I need to do like your illustration. Thank you again for this great video. Cheers

@btprestorations7499

6 ай бұрын

Hi, I probably wouldn't do that. Apart from not knowing how these chemicals will behave if stored dry together, it would be very difficult to make the mixture homogenous enough so that a quantity of it will have the correct amounts of everything. However, since all the required sodium hydroxide/ zinc oxide will dissolve in only 20-25% of the required water (and this is the part that takes the longest), you can make a separate, concentrated zincate solution and add that to distilled water to make your final concentration.

@merteryuksel9428

6 ай бұрын

@@btprestorations7499 Thank you for your reply. The main idea is not to store all of the excess dry chemicals individually inside a cabinet since I will not use them for an other purpose. I think I will take the dissolving one by one method not to take the risk. And make a concentrated zincate solution so that I can dilute it with distilled water later when I need it. Thanks again for the tip. cheers

Hello, I need some advice. I have tried to use the same setup as in video. NaOH + ZnO. As I dont have Sparkle, I have ordered a brightener from youplate page. But it doesnt work in this combination. I wonder it is the same as polyamine in sparkle or not? In a combination with ZnCl2 and NCl it works fine.

@btprestorations7499

2 жыл бұрын

Hi, The respective chemistries of acid chloride and alkaline electroplating are completely different so it's highly unlikely that a brightener intended for acid chloride will work with an alkaline bath and vice versa. The CAS number for the key ingredient in Sparkle is 42751-79-1 so you can check data sheets for local products to find an equivalent.

@char4cl

2 жыл бұрын

@@btprestorations7499 thank you for your response. Still have no luck to find anything similar in my country. Ill try to order sparkle from UK.

I want to thank for this video, I'm having an issue with the zinc oxide it will not mix it just settles to the bottom, I am using distilled water and lab grade sodium hydroxide any ideas?

@btprestorations7499

3 жыл бұрын

Make sure you start with only about 20-25% of your final volume of distilled water. Then add all of the sodium hydroxide. At this stage, the sodum hydroxide solution needs to be very hot and very concentrated for the zinc oxide to dissolve properly. Even then, it does take a while to dissolve. Just keep stirring and try to break up any chunks. It will dissolve eventually.

@amyrasalzeerah9625

2 жыл бұрын

How to make it shining like mirror chrome or gold chrome

Mate. Legend!

another question i bought caswell Blue chromate 8 oz ill set up in one final bath and then i ordered 1/4 lb of sodium dichromate dihydrate in powder 99.5 percent hpoe it the right item for yellow effect any idea how much to mix??

@btprestorations7499

3 жыл бұрын

No idea about that, sorry.

Great video thank you. Instead of using the water clarifier as the brightener will a dedicated brightener product suffice ?

@btprestorations7499

2 жыл бұрын

So long as it's intended for use with alkaline baths then yes, of course.

@claudelang521

2 жыл бұрын

@@btprestorations7499 I see.. i am using a brightener called TMA. Any idea ?

@claudelang521

2 жыл бұрын

@@btprestorations7499 Actually i found this which i can buy locally www.aquaneo.com.au/iq-pool-solutions-super-clear-pool-water-super-cla and here is the MSDS www.aquaneo.com.au/assets/brochures/AE-IPSC5001.pdf . Do you think it will work ?

@btprestorations7499

2 жыл бұрын

@@claudelang521 Hi, I obviously can't guarantee, but yes, I think it will. It looks to be almost identical to what I have. You may have to tinker with the amount depending on the actual concentration. It says 40-100% in the MSDS wheras mine says 25-55% so it maybe worth starting off low to begin with (say 5 drops) and seeing what happens. If it comes out dull it's easy to add a few more drops and try again each time until you get the finish you want. Good luck!

@claudelang521

2 жыл бұрын

@@btprestorations7499 again thank you for the feedback. Sorry for all the questions but I have a couple more if that's ok. Do you have any suggestions/improvements since making this video ? I plan on using live zinc electrodes.

Thanks but I cannot find Sparkle. Is there an alternative for a brightening agent?

@btprestorations7499

3 жыл бұрын

Hi. Sorry, I don't know of any specifically but the active ingredient is called 1,2 Ethanediamine polymer with (chloromethyl) oxirane and N-methylmethanamine (9CI) (CAS number 42751-79-1) if you want to look for local alternatives.

@robbsmind2209

3 жыл бұрын

@@btprestorations7499 thanks. I read the diy hobby type like myself could use poly ethyl glycol but would have to charcoal filter. I am still new to plating though so I’m simply in the learning and testing phase. Thanks for replying

Please note that the gas that evolved during the plating process is Hydrogen and could become volatile if allowed to build up in a poorly ventilated area. Especially if a spark occurred when you were agitating the part moving the contact bar up and down. Could become a problem if you did it on a bigger scale and with increased voltage for a longer plating period and left longer in between agitating. Not a liver of these DIY plating videos tbh. From a 65 year old who has recently retired from 48 years in the Electroplating, Electrophoretic Paint, Powder Coat industry. Products manager at several Metal finish factories processing components for the Aerospace, Automotive and Defense industry. 👍

Great video, very helpful. I am about to try this method and have obtained all the ingredients. As per your comments, I will be using two pure zinc anodes at opposite ends of the bath instead of the generator. Are there any other changes you recommend to the process since this video was made please? I have a heating and magnetic stirrer plate. Is this a good idea to assist mixing as well as in dissolving the zinc oxide? Thanks for your help and putting the video together.

@btprestorations7499

3 жыл бұрын

Hi, other than using anodes I haven't made any other changes except to make sure that the anode area is slightly larger than the surface area of the part to avoid anode polarisation. Using a stirrer will certainly help dissolve the zinc oxide but the additives will dissolve just as easily without it. You could also use it on a slow setting during plating for agitation.

@donttellhimpike2043

3 жыл бұрын

@@btprestorations7499 thanks so much!

@donttellhimpike2043

2 жыл бұрын

I tried this today using exactly the same setup and chemicals (UK based). I did remove the zinc generator and used two opposite ends zinc anodes. Magnetic stirrer agitation. Coated well but came out grey and very dull. Needed brass brush to bring out a shiny result. I used the same brass hose connector and degreased beforehand. Any suggestions to produce the same shiny result please?!

@btprestorations7499

2 жыл бұрын

@@donttellhimpike2043 Hi David, even coverage definitely shows you're heading in the right direction! However, it does sound like you need to add more Sparkle. I notice on the safety data sheet that it has a concentration of "25-75%" so you'll need to play around to find the amount that works for you. Try adding 10 more drops to what you've already made to start with and see if there's any improvement. If not, add 10 more and so on. It should start working eventually.

@donttellhimpike2043

2 жыл бұрын

@@btprestorations7499 thanks so much! I am using 1 litre of zincate, with 2ml of Sparkle. I will increase by incremental amounts and repeat as you suggest. The coverage seems pretty thick as it didn't wear through despite a Dremel rotary wire brush. Only took 7-8 minutes so seems much quicker than yours at 30 mins...? Current was between 1 and 1.5A. Around 1-2V.

So far I have been sticking to an acid zinc bath (acetate based, with aluminiumsulfate as grain refiner and vanillin as brightener) with fairly good results in both uniformity and brightness(up to about 2-2,5A/dm²) . But if I can find a local equivalent to "sparkle" (so far no luck finding something with a similar chemistry) I might give this a try . thanks for posting.

@qurandz4860

Жыл бұрын

Hi do u have a acid zinc brightner formula! Please help me

I'm unsure about what to use as the Anode when you say you have stopped using the sacraficial anode. I've bough a bar of Zinc - should this just be connected to the +ve - but what about the steel? where is that attached?

@btprestorations7499

2 жыл бұрын

Hi, I've mentioned this elsewhere in the comments but I would forget about the steel altogether on a scale this small. Just use the zinc as the +ve and your part as the -ve with a roughly 1:1 surface area ratio. However, if you plan on using the bath long-term, then use a 70%/30% mixture of zinc and steel respectively for the +ve to make up for the lower cathode efficiency.

@martinsensible6993

2 жыл бұрын

@@btprestorations7499 thanks for the reply. I'm making up 8 or 9 litres. If I were to use the steel (mild?) do I strap it to the zinc anode? Just side by side or opposite side of the

@btprestorations7499

2 жыл бұрын

@@martinsensible6993 Ordinary mild steel is fine. Treat the steel anodes as you would if they were zinc; evenly spaced around the part.

@martinsensible6993

2 жыл бұрын

@@btprestorations7499 Thanks for the reply. I'm just about to make up 8 litres so if I decide I need the steel with the Zinc Anode where does it go - do I strap them together so that they physically touch?

@btprestorations7499

2 жыл бұрын

@@martinsensible6993 They shouldn't physically touch in the bath.

1 gallon = 9.5 lbs. DI Water = 1.90 lbs. or 862.6 grams Add dry Caustic Soda = 1.14 lbs. or 517.6 grams Mix until dissolved. Will generate a some heat Add dry Zinc Oxide = 64.7 grams, mix until dissolved ~ about 10 minutes Add DI water = 6.25 lbs. or 2,837.9 grams Mix until dissolved. Add dry citric acid = 4.31 grams, mix until dissolved Add Polyamine = 25.9 grams, mix until dissolved Multiply x3 for three gallons or 3.78 liters x3 is the initial mix we made up

@btprestorations7499

2 жыл бұрын

64.7g / 3.78l = 17g/l. It should be 15g/l. Please look at this Reddit post: www.reddit.com/r/electroplating/comments/qhkkb7/effect_of_rising_zinc_content_in_an_alkaline_zinc/ I suspect this is what is happening with you.

I like the video starts with a formula and not asking for buy something.

Any info on acid zinc plating as well? Instead of alkaline?

@btprestorations7499

3 жыл бұрын

Hi. Sorry, just alkaline. I did mess around with an acid sulphate bath a while ago but results weren't great.

i think the underlying metal being brass might have something do with it being shiny...

hello, I have question, why we have grey debris on the part what the problem could be

@btprestorations7499

Жыл бұрын

Hi, it's difficult to say without seeing but if the deposit is dull and grey, it's likely the brightener isn't working.

Hey there Nice setup and thx for sharing, I love this DIY stuff I do have a problem though, I can't get my parts to come out of the bath nice and shiny, they are usually dull grey and sometimes with a "muddy" coating on them. This isn't a huge problem as I do vapour blasting and a quick trip into the cabinet cleaning them up using low pressure brings up the finish I'm looking for but if I want to do a lot of parts, especially smaller parts that are difficult to blast, I'd really like to avoid this finishing step Now I read your reply to another person with a similar problem so I know I need to find a brightener that works, the problem is finding one and ordering chemicals from abroad is quite the hassle so many suppliers won't ship to other countries and finding one with the exact same active ingredients as you use has so far been problematic My question is, is there any way I can visually confirm that the flocking agent I'm using does what it needs to do, as in, if I get deposits at the bottom of the bath if it sits for 24 hours undisturbed then it's doing the job it needs to do or is it more to it than this ? I've tried 2 different flocking agents for pools with no luck and I've also tried one my brother has access to at work which they use in their production, says C3H3OH on the bottle, and still no luck. Neither of these produce any deposits at the bottom of the bath though so I assume they don't work at all for this solution (I'm obviously not a chemist) so I was wondering if deposits would be a good sign or does it not matter ? Thx and keep up the good work, even if I have to do that finishing step this has been a huge help

@btprestorations7499

3 жыл бұрын

Hi, it's not actually the flocking property that is important so there shouldn't be any deposits forming in the solution. It should remain clear. However, if you want to find a local alternative to the brightener I use, look for CAS number 42751-79-1 on the relevant safety datasheet. If there's nothing available, then any polymer with the word amine in it might also work. I'm not a chemist either, but what I think is happening is that the -NH (amine) parts of the polymer molecule are deprotonated under alkaline conditions to form -N+. This makes the molecule positively charged so that it's attracted to the cathode during plating and forms a pourous film over the part being plated. The zinc ions must negotiate they're way through this film before reaching the surface of the part. Where the current density is high (corners, edges and bits that stick out), zinc is attracted more strongly but the polymer film is thicker so it travels though more slowly. Conversley, in areas of low current density, zinc is attracted less strongly but the polymer film is thinner so it travels through more quickly. The overall effect is that you get a nice, even, shiny coating. I think.

@ed0nei11

3 жыл бұрын

@@btprestorations7499 Thx for the explanation, this clears up a few things and makes it a lot easier to find an alternative Keep up the good work mate !

@btprestorations7499

3 жыл бұрын

@@ed0nei11 Thanks! However, it turns out that thing about deprotonation is nonsense so I'm all out of ideas ¯\_(ツ)_/¯.

Polyacrylamide should work as it’s the only clarifier locally?

@btprestorations7499

2 жыл бұрын

Hi, I haven't tried polyacrylamide myself so I don't know if it will work or not.

@brunoburtoni8479

2 жыл бұрын

@@btprestorations7499 I just bought polyammonium that’s all there is in Australia the rest is aluminium based .

Will that finish remain bright or will it oxidise?

@btprestorations7499

Жыл бұрын

The trivalent passivate should prevent oxidation under normal conditions.

hi, my zinc anode turns Black, how to remove that film to reuse the zinc anode?

@btprestorations7499

Жыл бұрын

Hi, you just need to give it a rinse and then wipe off the black film with a paper towel.

I wish I could just figure this out started out doing a lot of bright work then it stopped I overloaded it with clarifier is only thing I can think of

@btprestorations7499

2 жыл бұрын

It sounds like the zinc concentration is too high. Try discarding 25-50% of the solution and topping up with 120g/l sodium hydroxide solution.

@btprestorations7499

2 жыл бұрын

The reason it starts OK and gets dull later is because the anode efficiency is greater than the cathode effifciency. In other words, more zinc dissolves at the anode than is deposited at the anode leading to increasing zinc concentration over time. This can lead to dullness. If splitting the bath works then you can reduce the chance of this happening in future by replacing about 30% of the anode area with ordinary steel. This should make up for the difference in anode/cathode efficiencies.

An off question: Do you know what is used as a “brightener” in the acid based zinc plating process? BTW, an excellent informative video unlike any I have ever seen about plating!!

@btprestorations7499

8 ай бұрын

Thanks! Unfortunately I never really looked at acid baths so I can't really help. Sorry!

@donnykiofetzis5775

6 ай бұрын

the Brightener in by most of the plating kits you buy is TMA Trimethylamine add 1ml per liter in your bath. it's cheaper to buy it from someone that sells kits its very cheap. to buy yourself it come only in crystal form. it cannot not to be sold to public due to dangers.

Nice thanks

Below is the mix we started with comment? Please

If the sparkle chemical is omitted from the solution what would be the result/consequence please?

@btprestorations7499

3 жыл бұрын

Hi, if the Sparkle is omitted the deposit will be dull, grey and non-adherent. If left long enough, zinc crystals form that will just wipe off.

@koningbolo4700

3 жыл бұрын

@@btprestorations7499 Oke, thank you. If the intention is to paint the galvanized non sparkled parts what would be your recommendation?

@btprestorations7499

3 жыл бұрын

If I were painting on top than I wouldn't electroplate at all. Without the sparke, the paint will stick better to the zinc but the zinc won't stick well to the steel so it will flake off eventually. With the sparkle, you have the opposite. The zinc is firmly attached to the steel but it's difficult to get paint to adhere to the zinc without a primer. And if your going to do that, you might as well get a decent zinc based primer, apply it straight onto the steel and avoid all these problems.

@jerryquigg3497

Жыл бұрын

@@btprestorations7499 grey yes; but my experience is durable - on garden tools.

Thank you very much for sharing this excellent method. Would you know how many baths can be done without adding zinc, just using the solution? you added a subscriber and just one like, if i could i would click a thousand times. Sorry for the bad english, it's not my native language.

@btprestorations7499

11 ай бұрын

Hi, It depends! The bath contains 12g/litre of zinc metal and the plating rate is roughly 0.045g/dm2/minute at 3Amp/dm2. For a plating thickness of 10-15 micron it takes 20 minutes so that's about 0.9g/dm2. However, the bath may not function correctly at very low zinc concentration (6g/litre). So, if you have a 5 litre bath (60g zinc) and a 1 dm2 part, it should last roughly 33 times.

@crdenardin

11 ай бұрын

@@btprestorations7499 Thanks for the info. This is important because I intend to restore a few parts of a 1986 Volkswagen Beetle. 👍👍👍

@btprestorations7499

11 ай бұрын

@@crdenardin Awesome project! 👍

can we use urea as brightening agent?

@btprestorations7499

Жыл бұрын

I've tried thiourea which seems to make a give a small improvement but only at very small amounts (~0.1g/l) more than that makes the solution cloudy after a few days or if it gets too warm (>30c). I haven't tried urea.

Any updates still only get Grey plating

@btprestorations7499

2 жыл бұрын

Hi. No updates unfortunately. If it's not working properly for you, then please read the other comments under this video where these issues have already been discussed at some length.

@EveryoneneedsaGary

2 жыл бұрын

I had an issue with dull plating it’s seemed to be from the wires and crocodile clips in the electrolyte at the anode end I removed the wires and crocodile clips and my plating was bright again.

Why cant we connect the zince generators to the power and use the steel mesh as the opposite

Could you plate aluminium with this solution ?

@btprestorations7499

Жыл бұрын

I have never tried to plate aluminium. The solution is pretty caustic so there's a chance the aluminium will react as soon as you put it in but I don't know.

@Telectronics

Жыл бұрын

Yes btw sodium hydroxide is a very nice anodization stripper but because it attacks the aluminium I never used more than 5% by weight in water. I also used it only as pretreat for brazing aluminium but have read about that they always put it in zincate solution before plating with other metals. After searching it´s similar what you mix there. Maybe worth a try with lower hydroxide concentration.

does it work with out "sparkle"?

@btprestorations7499

2 жыл бұрын

Nope. Which country are you from? There might be a local equivalent.

@xushenxin

2 жыл бұрын

@@btprestorations7499 I am in US. I bought a local product "MAV AquaDoc Spa Clarifier". It does not work. The plating result is matt finish, not clear at all. Any suggestion? What is the active ingredient I should look for? Thanks!

@btprestorations7499

2 жыл бұрын

@@xushenxin @sompka has mentioned elsewhere in the comments that 'Dohenys Extra Strength Flocculent' worked for them and is available in the US.

@xushenxin

2 жыл бұрын

@@btprestorations7499 really appreciate your reply. I just placed order on Amazon!

Do you have any new updates on this formula

@btprestorations7499

3 жыл бұрын

Nearly there (I think). Just need to do a bit more testing.

@snakeoil24snake3

3 жыл бұрын

@@btprestorations7499 I just purchased everything you mentioned i will need id like if at all possible learn more now before i jump in with both feet. spmart1@optonline.net do i need temperature for the zinc bath or anything else?? I see your an expert

@btprestorations7499

3 жыл бұрын

Temperature isn't particularly important. I've been using this at ambient (cold) temperatures and it seems to work fine. As I mentioned in another comment, it's better to use zinc anodes connected to the +ve rather than the zinc generator because it doesn't really work on a small scale. Also, try to make sure that your zinc anode surface area is larger than the surface area of your part to avoid anode polarisation. If you're unsure, try it out in a smaller container on scrap metal first.

@snakeoil24snake3

3 жыл бұрын

@@btprestorations7499 okim good with what your saying i have the phoenix liquid floc, the mild stell mesh all chemicals arriving this week. Do i need a fish tank bubbler or little pump to circulate parts??

@btprestorations7499

3 жыл бұрын

Depends how big the tank is. For anything above 5L a pump and filter is a good idea. If you Google "5 inch aquafilter", that's what I use with a 10 micron polypropylene (PP) filter cartridge. For the pump, I use an Everflo EF1000 diaphragm pump because it's cheap, chemical resistant and rated for continuous use. All pipe fittings are polypropylene and the tubing I use is standard PVC garden hose. Hope this helps!

Is distilled water acceptable

@btprestorations7499

Жыл бұрын

Yes.

What does the BTP chemical do please??

@btprestorations7499

3 жыл бұрын

The BTP is Blue Trivalent Passivate. It protects the zinc surface from oxidation so that it stays shiny.

@koningbolo4700

3 жыл бұрын

@@btprestorations7499 Oke, so from the other comment and your reaction I get I need the Sparkle chemical(s) but do I need the BTP if I want to paint the plated part ?

@btprestorations7499

3 жыл бұрын

@@koningbolo4700 It won't be necessary, no.

@koningbolo4700

3 жыл бұрын

@@btprestorations7499 In my case the parts I will be plating will be parts which get handled a lot. On my motorcycle that would be for example the rear brake pedal and the gear shift lever/pedal. Also most if not all nuts and bolts (which also get painted after being tightened) The plating is simply another layer of defense against rust.

@koningbolo4700

3 жыл бұрын

@@btprestorations7499 Apart from the need of either a zinc electrode or a zinc generator are any of the chemicals involved there to stay (acting as catalysts) or do I need to replenish them from time to time please? I suspect this would be the question mainly in regards to the clarifying agent (Sparkle)...

I found a cheap brightener near me and the SDS says "CATIONIC POLYMER" would that work? It is "HTH 67023 Super Clarifier Swimming Pool Cleaner"

@btprestorations7499

2 жыл бұрын

I can't say for sure. It might. If it's cheap I'd probably give it a shot. However, if you're in the US, another user has confirmed that Doheny's Extra Strength Flocculent definitely works.

@nathantriplett3558

11 ай бұрын

Did it end up working? I'm thinking about trying the same thing

Please ،if you can i need the same methode but with tin (i need tinned copper ,i hope you can help me you follower from Africa...thanks)

@btprestorations7499

Жыл бұрын

Hi, I have never tried to electroplate tin, so unfortunately I cannot assist you. Sorry!

But you blued it. Now it looks like a alternated pulley from an old muscle car

You don’t have to show us five minutes of stirring