As an Engineer, I have to say that this is a good upload, and will be useful to many especially bikers. The word " braze" refers to the metal "brass" and all of it's various alloys, based around copper as the single main constituent part, and brazing refers to the process of fusing a filler rod which has a lower melting point than the parts being joined together. Therefore, the word brazing, or to braze, must refer to the fusing of metal containing an alloy which includes copper, called a brazing rod. All other fusion materials are referred to by the name of their constituent parts, such as ally welding for aluminium, which is the subject of this great upload. Thanks guys.

@Moonfleet41

4 жыл бұрын

Thank you so much Anthony, its an honour to have such kind, and generous insight from an obvious professional.. if you don't mind, im going to 'pin' your message to the top so that everyone tuning in can benefit from that understanding of the subject too... take care and keep in touch.. Del.

@johncoops6897

4 жыл бұрын

Anthony is the "know it all" engineer who's full of bullshit. "BRAZING" is a metal-joining process in which two or more metal items are joined together by melting and flowing a filler metal into the joint, the filler metal having a lower melting point than the adjoining metal. It does NOT apply only to Brass or Copper! Here's a list of hundreds of different brazing alloys, each formulated for a specific task. Note the large number of brazing alloys at the start of the list, all for aluminium brazing. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_brazing_alloys

@haydenberndt4835

4 жыл бұрын

@@johncoops6897 You're correct, brazing specifically refers to the joining of 2 dissimiliar materials, via use of a melted filler material. Brass, and it's alloys have generally been used due to their ductility, and good melting and flow characteristics, not to mention their chemical stability, however that doesn't necessarily prevent other materials from being used. remember, Welding is the joining of similiar materials using a filler which has similiar characteristics to the parent metal; Brazing is the joining of dissimiliar materials to take advantage of the chemical characteristics of the filling material, without drastically changing the characteristics of the parent material.

@715rdmail

4 жыл бұрын

Great discussion. No expert but here's my understanding. Welding involve the melting and combining of similar base metals. I filler metal isn't always needed as the metals have flowed together to conjoint the parts but is used to fill any voids between the parts. Brazing is using a filler metal to joint dissimilar metals. Soldiering is much like brazing but at temperatures below 840 F.

@anonjag

4 жыл бұрын

"Brazing" the root word is of Brass, but it has entered the general lexicon as a joining process, as in sometimes to "Xerox" is used to mean copy a printed page even using another manufacturers machine

Thanks for the thorough test. I have similar rods I bought years ago and also did a similar test and was impressed also. They are good for non-cosmetic, non-structural repairs.

Thanks for the evaluation. I too bought some a few months back and haven't tried them out yet. As per your video it is a WHOLE LOT EASIER than traditional brazing and I agree that it will NEVER SURPASS real welding.😎

I have used similar products over the last 40 years and it does work well. For maximum strength it is important to get the filler metal to flow right through the joint. I have made two stroke pipes with it and repaired small engine crankcases with great success...

@dickstickem509

2 жыл бұрын

Hey I'm sorry to bother you but do u think it would work to repair the engine case on my 4wheeler? Please let me know any thoughts on this. I need to figure out something......thankyou so much

Great video, well done. I used rods like these over 20 years ago to repair a 3" crack in an aluminum fishing boat. I had to use MAP gas to get the temp up because of the large heat sink area, and then laid on a big pool, and ground it down smooth. I left about 1.5 - 2 mm of thickness over the cracked area and feathered the edges flush. The crack was right on the bottom below the water line. I still have that boat and that repair has never leaked, cracked again, or flaked off. The repaired boat has seen some hard use and pretty rough water, always powered by a 10 hp outboard. Amazing when you think about it.

Working in a Caravan Manufacturing plant in Australia, we discovered a great technique for soldering directly to Aluminium sheeting. It involved putting some machine oil on the surface and then fine sandpaper soaked in oil to remove oxide coating. Rinse debris away with clean oil and leave covered in oil. If the cleaned area remains under oil, it never has the chance to re-oxidise (which is almost instant). We then used a large hot soldering iron and soldered directly through the oil and the solder wicked and bonded just like fresh copper. Once coated in solder, it was easy to tin and solder an earth wire onto the solder patch on the Aluminium sheet. If you could obtain a high temp oil and employ the same technique to pre-tin your surfaces with the brazing rod, you would get a proper bond. As HawkerCNC pointed out, hitting that hot joint with the wire brush while covered in melted brazing rod might also work but doesn't get rid of the oxide debris, which will contaminate your joint. The trick is a) remove oxide under oil. b) heat as fast as possible to get brazing to stick before oil boils/burns c) join tinned parts together rather than trying to do it all at once. Look forward to a follow-up. P.S. "Anthony Williams"...Should we be calling it Aluzing?

@rattusnorvegicus4380

4 жыл бұрын

Cool.

@MrAluminox

4 жыл бұрын

This technique used since ages for soldering aluminium with tin is known since ages. Vaseline can be used also. There are also old recipes of flux using zinc chloride and rosin. The oil protection works only when you are working at a temperature lower than the temp where the oil starts to burn. Tin melts at 250 C thus the machine oil won't burn. So unless to have a very special oil that burns only above around 600 Celsius, that won't work while brazing with a zinc alloy that melts around 400 C, as the oil will begin to fume and release tons of carbon. The zinc brazing does not need flux, just to have the alu cleaned with a stainless steel brush.

What you did with the alloy welding test was spot on. I have looked at getting some of those rods but to see someone actually use and test the rods out. I'm well impressed with the outcome. Thanks for the test. Keep up the good work 👍😁

Love your understanding of the difference between 'what goes on up here and what comes out of your hands' (or words to that effect). Priceless, and something that comes with age and experience!!!

Great vid. Loved how you didn't start with an agenda, and when it impressed you, you said so. Nice to see honest reviews.

@Moonfleet41

4 жыл бұрын

Was just keen to find out who it performed for myself, all i could find was negative swaggering from other posts i saw on it.. seems it performed a lot better then most people say.. evidently there's a lot of snobbery out there about 'welding', this works just fine and have its uses..

@xex2kok

2 жыл бұрын

@@Moonfleet41 It just depends what product you use. There are plenty you could try and you would be negative about as well.

Thank you for a review. I was really curious how good these ally rods are. And your test proved they are worth to have for certain applications. Good work🤝

Looks amazing for most decorative and many light/medium duty mechanical and static structural applications. I wouldn't try making a bicycle frame right away but sure would consider it. I'm going to get into this at a hobbiest lever anyhow. Another metal joining material that takes traditional brazing to a new level of ease and applicability is silicon bronze. One can simply use a tig welder as the heat source and melt the bronze directly to steel in a fairly rapid pace. No pre-heating or flux is needed. Just clean and hit the switch. Thanks for the post!

This review was well worth my time, thank you for yours in testing this product.

Very well done! As a do-it-yourselfer, I am new to brazing aluminum. I recently got all the materials I need to give it a try, so your excellent video is a must-see to understand the limits of this type of work. I'll be back for more education!

Thanks mate it cheers me up every time i see the coat fall pmsl

I've been waiting for someone I trust to review these rods 👍🏻

Well done review, thanks! It surprised me as well, and I may try it to repair some curb rash on my car's rims (cosmetic damage only).

I am so glad I found this, when you were filling the holes it gave me an idea. I bought a humvee and it had lots of things attached when it was in service but now that it’s not, I have tons of random holes and I’m about to paint. This would be amazing for that purpose.

Brilliant vid , had my doubts for tasks needed but im completely sold now.

Now that's exactly what I wanted to see, a thorough test on something that I initially thought could be very handy, although automatically assumed that as it was advertised on Facebook it must be a scam. Thank you for taking the time to post this comprehensive video. I will definitely be buying some of these rods, especially as I now know the do's and don'ts of their capabilities.

What a beautiful workshop you got there Sir! Thank you for sharing.

I was very skeptical, but after your demonstration I feel a lot better about this. Thanks for the demonstration. I'm going to use it for a prototype that requires a lot of connections for strength, similar to the connections used in a truss. This is a solution and a bit of a miracle, and I'm very excited about this. I see that surface preparation is the most important factor, and certainly worth taking the extra time to get it all scratched up and clean, because the areas where it peeled away were not fully prepared. I really like the additional helpful tips at the end of the video, where you mention overlapping, drilling holes, and flowing in between. For the in-between, I can make some deep scores and fill them in. This gives me ideas for all kinds of things to try and I think my connections will be very strong. Thank you!

Well done video Sir! Clean aluminum with the oxide removed with stainless steel brush is really critical, as you were careful to point out! I personally like to pre heat the pieces with an electric heat gun, immediately following with a propane torch to make sure the metal is hot enough. The rod should melt just by touching the aluminum, the metal should be melting the rod, or it's not hot enough yet. It can be tricky with bigger pieces, because aluminum cools so quickly and immediately forms an oxidized "scale" surface layer again. That's why I like the heat gun to get it close to temp...the heat it puts out doesn't seem to oxidize the aluminum as quickly as the combustion gas flame of the torch does. Just like soldering copper, if you aren't heating the base metal hot enough to melt the solder by itself, you will get a "cold joint". Really appreciate the great video, thank you!

Great test! I'm sure there are ways you can make the welds stronger. Like making holes wider with a countersink (beveled edge).

This has been one of thé best reviews of a product I have seen in a very, very long time! Good job, Delboy!

I really appreciate you taking your time evaluating this amazing product. Thank you!

Thanks for testing this out, great clip!! I've been looking at this method for a while but not sure about it as you were yourself but certainly looks viable. I agree with you that it is limited in respect of safety, but perhaps if a double butt weld is used on sheet etc. that is chamfered both sides and then brazed each side as well it would add to the overall strength? Only area I am not certain about is when the workpiece is really hot enough to receive the braze. I originally learned to weld in the 60s before MIG welding came about and Ali brazing was used at that time (not self-fluxing), a rough guide was to coat the outer edges with soap, when it turned black it was said to be hot enough! Thanks for a great Vid and all the best with the bike project.

On filling holes, try countersinking the holes to create a wider cone shaped contact area. It may be possible to countersink from both sides to create a bi-directional repair. Cool vid. handy stuff . thanks for posting. (you could attach vortex generator micro-fins onto an Aluminum-Cafe fairing, etc..)

Thanks. I just ordered some of these rods, myself. Good to see that they work.

I remember seeing a similar product come out in the early 80’s. As a young man who enjoyed putting things together i saved my pennies and mail ordered some. I wasn’t very knowledgeable then and a bit impatient and never did have much luck with it. But this is the second video tonight ive seen on similar products. Both with good successes so im going to have to try it again. Great video by the way

@2lefThumbs

3 жыл бұрын

Yeah, I tried some in the 90s, but the melting temperature of the filler was too close to the base metal melting point for me, half the time the parts I was trying to join would start sagging just as the filler started flowing. This stuff melts at a much lower temperature than the stuff I tried back then.

First time here. I'm impressed, not particularly by the aluminium brazing itself (which I have used before) but, by the way you addressed the tests and the results!

This reminds me of when I was 10 years old and experimenting with a soldering iron, solder and copper wire. I'm surprised how well this seems to hold, it didn't look like it flowed particularly brilliantly into the joint during heating. Kudos to it tho

@nc3826

4 жыл бұрын

he also bent the base metal and had no idea what he was doing... much like a 10 yr old... so it was just "ok"

@thomasstetina6410

3 жыл бұрын

Me too! Like soldering up my old slot car frames.

Taught me a lot about joining aluminium. The example tests were *really* good. Made the usefulness of the technique crystal clear. Thank you 👍

As a general tinker and messer, I can only say THANK YOU. You have opened new options for me.

@mySeaPrince_

3 жыл бұрын

Agree.....

First used rods of this sort about 40-odd years ago. The latest incarnations are better. I have repaired broken crankcases with this stuff and it does work... I have also made aluminium tuned expansion chamber exhausts for small racing two stroke engines with it too. Works a treat. Like all soldering, cleanliness is the story. It doesn't seem to flow by capillary action as well as soft solder, but that depends a bit on temperature..... It's good stuff eh? Nearly as good as a weld... The "stronger than the parent metal" would only apply to very soft (pure) aliminium, but it brazes up alloys too..... Yes the Chinese ones work fine...... The rod alloy has zinc in it.... Use it like solder stress-wise....

I'm actually quite impressed! As a retired quality engineer I had my doubts about this. Perhaps if Billy Mays had been selling them, then maybe! Seriously though, I am building a flat tracker XS650 Yamaha and am considering fabricating the electrical box out of aluminum. This would be an amazing assist in that part of the project. My early years before QE work I was a certified welder. I think I'm up for this. Thanks for the excellent video!!!

This is great. I have the same kit - bought it quite some time ago, but then changed direction on a project and didn't use it. Now I have been inspired by your video I'll have to dig it out and get going with it.

Thanks, have been looking at that rod for a bit, and read the specs, your demo sold me.

Im impressed , its a good get me home when overlanding !

not a comment on the content, as interesting as it is, but rather on the overall watchability of the video. I stayed to the end largely cause of your presentation. well done.

Excellent job. Thank you for performing these test.

Good video!!! Doing both sides has a big advantage in doubling the area of contact. it will never replace TIG welding for aluminum but great for patching and light load applications. I have used a similar flux filled rod and it worked real good for laser holder,

I keep seeing this stuff advertised and thinking it’s a load of tosh. This surprised me! Top job on the video

That was interesting. I never did much work in aluminium other than just bend the stuff. Nice one.

What a great demonstration. By far the best one on this subject. And thank you for having hubris and just automatically discounting this method just because it's not a traditional was of mending two pieces of Aluminum. Also you have a very nice and orderly shop.👍

This was a great demonstration...thank you!

Nice one Del! Finally got a cordless drill mate!!

I've been welding for 50 years and had some success with aluminium brazing using high silicon rods (not sure if that's what these are), especially on some cast alloys that are not readily weldable. I also studied metallurgy as an engineering student. Your test looks impressive, but I can say for sure that the success of this will depend very strongly on the grade of aluminium alloy you are going on to. There are so many different types of aluminium alloys, cast and wrought, heat-treatable and non-heat--treatable, all of which have different constituents and different behaviour in response to heat, and the strength of the joint will depend on the metallic solution that occurs at the interface of the braze and the component - this is much more complicated with aluminium alloys than with steels! Many also change with time, due to solution hardening over some days or weeks, so even if you get a strong job on day 1 it might not be so good on day 30. It would be helpful to know what alloys you used in these tests, if you had that information. So in general, I'd say use it with caution and not on anything that will cause you an injury if it breaks! Or if you are going to do a test piece to check its strength, check it again after a few weeks. If you have quite a bit of work to do, you could invest in a cheap TIG welder, even as a newbie you'll have more confidence in your work. Mind you even then, the brazing will solve some aluminium joining problems that you can't TIG weld! Especially broken castings. In the end it all really comes down to the alloys you are trying to join. Happy brazing!

@HughCStevenson1

3 жыл бұрын

The silicon rods are the 10% Si eutectic, I think these are the aluminium magnesium eutectic at about 40% Mg. The temperature is quite a lot lower, about 440C instead of 580C - so easier to reach and avoid accidentally melting the parent metal! Probably useful on 5000 series alloys, like 5083 and 5052, used in boatbuilding amongst other uses. Also 6000 (6061, 6063 etc) series but they lose strength if the are heated and then not heat-treated afterwards.

@adrewdio2694

Жыл бұрын

Thanks for that detailed reply and I discovered today that trying to use that product he was using didn't bond well since it popped off after one hit with a hammer. I think I didn't get the cast aluminum hot enough even though I heated it between wood to avoid heat bleed out. In my case, the cast alloy was for use on an electrical box for outside use and may have contained lead or something else but I'm no expert yet on this. I heated it for around five minutes, product melted well, pooled ok but didn't stick well even after I roughed up the surface with sandpaper, metal power brush then wiped and vacuumed excess. Thanks for your input on this.

@indianatone218

10 ай бұрын

Hi ive a bike frame with the front fairing bracket that holds fairing and clocks , it brocken in the middle of the headstock do you think i could repair it with these rods without damaging top and bottom race bearings ? i was thinking of putting a wet rag top n bottom to stop heat when warming the cast alooy headstock up to much and warping stuff ,i only want to make this little brkt stick so wont be going mad with welding it ,thanks in advance . Ant from wales ,altho i am a welder never used this stuff or tig .

Sir, I’m thankful for your demo. The tests tell everything and nothing. Different situations, different stressors, differing surface areas of contact, and differing impact make it difficult to know anything for certain. If I want to braise aluminum rod together to make furniture or a frame for a canvas cover over the boat cockpit, this will do a very good job and I doubt will need repair. BUT if it did, with the welding torch aboard and some rod I could effect a repair almost anywhere, even in the middle of blue water if necessary. I’d be interested to melt the braising solder around a hole like laying on glue or bedding compound, press a patch over the hole and heat it all again and I think that would keep water in a tank or fix a refrigerator or something like that. I’m very happy to know I can learn torch welding for steel and use this type product for these types of small jobs. thanks Sir!

Really well done vid, real world test, no BS. See this stuff in Demo at the swap meets all the time, but never a strength test like you have done. Need to run out and try it now for myself. Thanks!!

Impressive stuff!

I liked how Del cleaned every piece before brazing them even though it was just an experiment. Cleanliness of base-metals before brazing is important.

@jimmyhaley727

3 жыл бұрын

VERY important

@Bobby11

3 жыл бұрын

Well, you cant really run an experiment where its so important the surfaces are clean without cleaning it. otherwise your results are useless

Hi, Bought a 2m length of this stuff a few years back and keep a T piece I joined as a first trial. Every now and then I knock hell out of it but it still holds. Good for forming some light pieces or even a modest alloy bespoke rack, etc. Experimented with some overlap joints and it holds well but needs a bit more heat to penetrate, but useful to join custom bodywork. Thanks for this video. Will save some people a lot of time and money but preparation, as you said, is key.

Ste Walley I'm impressed, it's something that 'could' be useful to most. Thanks for the in put

The hole plug operation would probably yield better results if we were to countersink the hole prior to applying the brazing. The combination of angle and increased surface area should make a very significant difference.

That is impressive! There are a lot of applications where that is more then adequate. Great video

@timhallas4275

4 жыл бұрын

Donald Moore: Yes. Arts and crafts. This is not welding, or braising. This is bonding,, as in gluing.

@GrainGrown

Ай бұрын

*than

Love the instruction! Most helpful in building my experimental aircraft. Also, the license plates on the wall are awesome!

I've been looking for this test for a long time! Excellent and thx for your video. Very usefull and helpfully!

Try using a couple pieces of ceramic tile between the aluminum and the jaws of your vice or clamps to prevent heat transfer from the aluminum to the clamp or vice. It will also help with temp stability of the aluminum.

@aurelienyonrac

Жыл бұрын

Waw cool cool 😎

@LH-kz2nf

Жыл бұрын

All of the ceramic tile I've ever seen will crack and break into pieces under very little pressure. I would think the pressure needed to hold something in place in a vise would be more the a piece of ceramic tile could with stand without breaking

Thank you I wanted to see if they work .. light Duty work and depending on heat ,duration, and cleaning the pice proper....maybe the weld floats on top of the flux giving you a cold joint ,,,? But over all it could be useful for different jobs and tempered hardness,!.

Very informative and entertaining...I used to have to seal punctures in refrigerator evaporators from people defrosting them with ice picks...The older stuff, mostly, but some freezers still get the ice pick treatment...These are good for those type repairs, but you can easily blow a bigger hole if not careful....The strength of other joints, like demonstrated here, I wondered about, but now I know....My thanks to the gent that made this video....I enjoyed it and learned while watching it too.

I had been wondering about this product, I have a project in mind that requires Al rather than ferrous metal. Stronger than I had initially thought. Thank you.

I’ve used these rods for fixing a radiator hole and a broken engine casing,where you will struggle in any thing large will not get hot enough and you will need lots of blow lamps heating the whole thing.i thought they where fantastic

Very nice video. This technique definitely has its uses and the author clearly explains the limitations. A few observations: this technique is indeed a form of brazing. Brazing is a handy technique for attaching non structural elements. For example, a type of metallic fairing used for aerodynamics could be attached by brazing. One thing I would caution about heating aluminum with a torch is that you are annealing the base metal. Most aluminum alloys get their strength from some form of heat treatment, which you are undoing by the application of heat even if well below the melting point. To regain the initial mechanical strength, the structure would have to be precipitation hardened by heating in an autoclave and cooling at a controled rate. The metal can then be "aged" by heating it at a low temperature in a conventional oven for a few hours. I mention this because aluminum typically has a yield strength at about 50% of steel, so further compromising the mechanical strength (and stiffness) through annealing may render the bonded area unsuitable for its intended application.

@aurelienyonrac

Жыл бұрын

Thank you. I will put my aluminum boat in the oven. 😅

Nicely done. The video left me with a tactile sense of the strengths and limitations of this joining method.

Very good presentation and Review. Great job with the Steps in testing. I would trust this kit on most home projects and some sheeting work.

That looks pretty promising. I going to try it myself

This is interesting and I'd like to experiment with it myself. I've always either used a TIG or Acetylene/Air to weld aluminum. The Acetylene/Air method is a lost art. I haven't met many who can weld aluminum with that method.

@chrismcguire6701

Жыл бұрын

I would like to know how you do it because I would like to know how and be able to do it myself with an acetylene/ oxygen torch. Thank You

Very useful experiment, nicely done 👍 nice shop 👍 Another important tip to mention is to keep those brazing rods very clean as well. Thanks for sharing !

I loved what you did . I always wanted to solider ac coils. thank you

I ran a brazing machine for 39 years and have seen these rods for the past 20 years but have never tested them I satisfied with what you’ll do with them. But I wouldn’t put my life on the line with them as you’ve said.

Great video. ! Back in world war 2 they aircraft manufacturers used oxye- acetylene torches with a slightly carborizing flame to join aluminium together. This included tubing frames or space frames also used in early race cars. This 2nd all before tig or heliarc welding was invented. The process you are using is actually a bonding process as no fusion takes place. If the joints are done with a small torch tip to control the heat more precisely, Excellant results can be done. I'm a metalergist and certified welding instructor and built race cars and bikes with about all welding processes. A fuel tank properly designed to eliminate fatigue and stress would be fine with these rods. Keep the videos coming. It was good watching the destructive testing.

@atlantajunglepythons1744

2 жыл бұрын

Really great info. If you see this, what's your opinion of the inexpensive Chinese rods? I assume they are all of a piece

@chrisgoff5271

3 күн бұрын

I too agree with the above as a younger man are used to oxyacetylene to weld racing motorcycle tanks and have been involved in the aircraft industry on similar projects we used to use oxyacetylene welding process of aluminium and bracing if i member rightly when browsing the aluminium we used to use a 12 to 15% silicon-based rod and a flux powder that was water soluble that we used to mix into a paste and paint on the area to be welded. pretty good video though as I understand using the stainless steel rod which the filler material will not adhere to can agitate the filler material and help the bonding process 👍

@chrisgoff5271

3 күн бұрын

sorry about the spelling bloody spellchecker

Thank you for doing the tests that we can see where we can use it. It has limitations but can be handy for some applications and maybe some emergency use on the road.

Bravo!! Very insightful video that defines the working envelope where you can and cannot use this method.. thank you!

Hey! Seriously impressed by your test-welding today. I agree with you that it wouldn’t be feasible for stress-related welds but ideal for panel work/bodywork jobs. I’m going to try it myself. Cheers for the video

I had on old Honda Dream that had a float bowl with a pin hole in it, this would be perfect to fix that type of leak.

Thank you for that, Ive just brought some for alloy body work.

Thank's for sharing this, I've actually watched a demo previously and bought similar rods but not progressed further to trying it but you presented it in such a way I'm now confident to use it for some more cosmetic joining which would be much better to the pop rivet alternative. Very impressed, likes and subscribed.

Thats convinced me, good video Im off to buy some of those rods

@tousshong9438

4 жыл бұрын

So, did you buy and try it out? It's cheap on eBay anyway...

@JOOLZNED

4 жыл бұрын

@@tousshong9438 Bought some but I have not used it yet

You did exactly the same thing that I did when I tried the rods. You brought the parent metal almost up to temp and then put on the rod BUT you kept applying heat to the area. I found (Though I'm no expert) that if you bring the metal up to temp and remove the heat the rod will melt nicely. Every time you add heat during soldering you make any penetration a little less then it should be and when you add the heat the parent metal is not quite ready to melt the rod on it's own. I hope this makes sense to anyone Harold from Canada

I always wondered about these rods. Thanks for making this video!!!

Watching the Educational video for the second time and learning. Thanks, buddy. Your demo is quite impressive.

Just a thought, as far filling holes to polish over maybe if you countersink the hole you should be able to polish down to surface level without the weld/braze falling through

@grumblycurmudgeon

3 жыл бұрын

I was wondering the exact same as I watched him punch that through. Excellent point.

@punkinhaidmartin

Жыл бұрын

I used to install "double flush plugs" to repair damage on airframes. I would not heat any part of an airframe like that, but for cosmetic things, countersinking from both sides. If you want the best possible weld on aluminum, you'll want to look into fiber laser welders. Easier and better than TIG. Way less heat affected zones.

Thanks for doing this. I always wondered how good this stuff was. Exceeds my expectations and would have its uses for non-structural work. I think I'll go ahead and get some, but I'll get a tig welder (and learn how to use it properly) first. BTW, I read somewhere that you have to use a stainless steel brush because an ordinary steel or brass brush will transfer and corrupt the joint. Massively impressed with your setup BTW. I dream of a proper lathe etc. :)

Screw flex tape/seal this is the best stuff I've seen for cheap quick small aluminum boat repairs. Thanx for the info

Thanks for the video. I have used this stuff many years ago to join copper tube to aluminium, but I usually use silver solder for ferrous to anything other than aluminium. Most who try this simply do not get the surfaces clean enough and then blame the rods. Carl, just journeying through.

DO NOT GET RIPPED OFF! - #1. The metal has to be VERY clean. #2. This is just plain old zinc rod worth about $1.85 per pound. Flux = zinc chloride 10% + lithium chloride 90% - use this flex very sparingly, 1 ounce of this flux will probably yield 100 feet of linear weld area. Dip zinc rod into flux when rod is pre-heated hot enough so that the flex sticks. EASY and CHEAP, works get. Just remember the most important step, use a wire brush and make sure the metal is clean clean clean, very CLEAN! Must be a stainless steel wire wheel or brush. Don't get ripped off, zinc is dirt cheap. Hint: A US zinc penny works fine for small jobs if fluxed and cleaned.

I’ve used this many times on stripped out threads on lawnmowers and chainsaws. Clean out hole with CRC Brakleen heat it up, fill it in drill and retap.

@savagenomore

4 жыл бұрын

that's my number 1 use for this, I bought some of it from one of the old info commercials way back about 20 years ago, have also used it to make/repair obsolete carb intake tube flanges for small engines..

@crusinscamp

4 жыл бұрын

Just a friendly word; be careful with brake cleaner and high temperatures, it can release very toxic gases. Search "brake cleaner welding".

@DeliciousDeBlair

4 жыл бұрын

I can see how that could save a person a fortune being able to resurrect or rescue damaged aluminum parts.

@garychandler4296

4 жыл бұрын

Stop overtightening the bolts...?

@stephenrowlands843

4 жыл бұрын

@@camgnilpe9300 agreed!

Thank you! I was sceptical of these I’ve just ordered some thanks to your real world test 🍺

I like the fact you qualified the uses for it, I've used the Alumaweld product which is similar, it comes from the moldmaking world as a filler rod and does a great job of patching holes, etc. You still might not want to use it for a multi-part fairing because feathering it out you may end up with some edge peeling, the stuff i used has that tendency and if you actually grab the bead with vice grips in some cases you can peel the bead back like opening a sardine can. TIG will give you a filler (or use your base metal material to make your filler) that closest resembles the hardness and color of your base metal- still for the price this stuff has its uses- soldering in an aluminum nipple to an aluminum tank, for example.

When gas welding it's not enough to warm the surface of the metal to be welded and then melt the braze on top. To make a solid join, heat the pieces to the point where they are hot enough to melt the rod when it is touched to them as it will have a lower melting point than that of the pieces to be joined. A weld bead that is round on top is a sign that its not hot enough. You want the bead edge to be flush with the base metal.

@colin-manyeates-clan5221

2 жыл бұрын

I'm no tech but I felt the same way. It seemed to me that it should melt similarly as when actually welding, where it flows into the area then you know it is hot enough... I bet that if you used a finer tight flame and led the rod much like welding that it would also work better since the heat will dissipate so quickly. In other words I think the heat should be on it continuously and lead the rod. After all it does say that it has "flux core" so it seems that by "painting" it on you loose the whole point.. does this make sense? The question I would experiment with is what is the best angle of the flame? On one hand I'd think that facing away will help to pre-heat the upcoming area. On the other hand putting the rod where it is hottest makes sense so perhaps drawing the flame...?? Or just face on and move slowly with the rod as close to the flame without touching it, since the metal is what needs to melt the rod. Personally I would not use a vice directly. I would stick a rod to the pieces and put the rods in the vice with fiberglass strips for actual contact. Isolate the heat. Also I would work both sides and or leave a tiny gap so that it actually fills that tiny space and cups around the two pieces being connected.. make sense? I do have a question: does "how quickly it cools" make a difference? Blessings... great video!!

If THIS was their advertising, I would have been using this for years. The perfection they claim in their marketing has scared me off this while time.

I used this same product to modify my aluminum trailer bracing in the rear corners. I “Braise” all the triangle corners of 2” angle aluminum and will use this product again. I was completely surprised of the strength of ALL the joints. Great product IF you follow the cleaning instructions.

Great new possibility I have learned thanks to your vid. We have a butter extruder in our plant that needs a few holes patching up in it's aluminium body. Will do the job nicely. Plus the frame is broken that holds the wire cutters for the butter coming out of the thing. This will be a life saver for that old machine for which there are no parts made any more. Awesome.

I was dubious but that'll do what I need,.cheers🙂

I have some of this stuff. I wouldnt call it welding. Just aluminum soldering, but let the aluminum your working on when heated up to temp, melt the rod. In some stress situations, it hold up pretty good.

Thank you, you answered all my questions, and probably saved my life if I'm being perfectly honest, lol!

Nice video :) I really enjoyed It, I am a Retired Female Operating Industrial Engineer with 45 years of Experience, I Have Arc welded Aluminum, Gas welded Aluminum, Mig welded and Tig Welded aluminum , Nice to see a Type of Braze for Aluminum :) it does have its Place for some repairs Like aluminum Radiators where there is not a lot of Stress on the metal , Keep up the Great Videos, Chellie

@Moonfleet41

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you Chellie for your insight, i agree, they do have a use and so for, every application i've put them to has stood up to use and is as durable as they claim..

I was skeptical at first, having tried a similar thing back in the late '90's (but it was much more likely my poor skills and lack of knowledge/preparation versus the product it seems.) Am actually quite impressed with how your experiments turned out, I loved how thorough you were and variety of sample demos. It does open up more options for, as you rightly caution, non critical items and cheap 'n easy artistic expression capabilities regarding attaching aluminum pieces together. Well done!

Thank you for your honest evaluation. I’m a DYI hobbyist slash handyman, so like probably many of your audience, I wade through many challenges that a professional would most likely scrap rather than “jury rig” and bring new life to someone’s faithful old contraption. To be honest, I end up building or fixing up projects that no legitimate business could (or would) put their name on for a variety of good reasons including time spent, cost, style, and visual appeal; but mostly much of what I get into defies logic and common sense. All that preamble aside, I have been using this product and it’s Chinese produced knock offs for some time now. My initial reaction was disbelief which I must say was based more on my own disdain at the obvious fact that it is marketed as a welding solution when clearly it is not welding at all. So I set out to prove it was unworthy to use. Eventually, I got over myself and decided to solder and braze with it. So I found that as a soldering/ brazing medium it works quite well. I adjusted my expectations accordingly and have not been disappointed. Flush ground holes can be liquid tight but like other soldering methods I have found it best to walk gently around those repairs. When I need a hole in the same spot, I try to braze in an overlay or underlying piece that can be drilled. You nailed the cleaning requirement and the stainless steel brush. Others leave microscopic debris that will contaminate the joint. The biggest part of my learning curve was torch use. It can’t be overstated: heat both pieces to at least 750 degrees Fahrenheit, then continue to torch heat but do not allow the flame to come into contact anywhere along your joint. Tell tale sign is small chunks of solder floating in the puddle. Once you achieve just a bright shining liquid flow, you will find full penetration and a strong lasting repair, plus no peel off or cold solder defects. Lastly, the name brand product flows more readily than the generic offerings, but I have found the cheap stuff will work satisfactorily but only if I get the work pieces hot enough and keep the torch flame away from your puddle. Great video!

Thanks for the review. I was always a bit dubious about these products. I believe the reason for the stainless steel brush is the fact that when you use a mild steel brush on aluminium you can end up with very small bits of steel in the aluminium which leads to rust in the joint. Stainless is much less likely to affect aluminium in this way.

@robinrussell3705

Жыл бұрын

Even using tig process, use only stainless brush or it won’t take