You already had a good indication at the first component you tested - if a diode read normal out of circuit but shorted in circuit - something is shorting this diode - find the short and you have a reasonable chance you found the busted component. if you have another battery with the same circuit board you can compare measurements between boards

@MyPlayHouse

8 ай бұрын

Hi @fransvankralingen725 Thank You very much! glad you liked the video :-) Thank you for watching! :-)

The two mosfets are behaving exactly like they should. When you have the diode voltage is because it has a built in diode from source to drain (many mosfet are like this). While when you measure zero is because you charge the tiny capacitor between gate and source, this “closes” the “contact” between source to drain. The left pin is probably the gate, the common pin the drain and the right pin the source. I agree it operates like magic :)

@MyPlayHouse

8 ай бұрын

Hi @SuperSerNiko97 Thank You very much! glad you liked the video :-) Thank you for watching! :-)

Good multi month time warp editing

@MyPlayHouse

8 ай бұрын

I like the 3 hour projekts much better!!

As I’m sitting here and. Came across your video I’m in the process of replacing the 18650 cells in three Ryobi battery packs 😊great video

@MyPlayHouse

4 ай бұрын

Thank You,, I ended up having to replaces the PCB on this battery,, here is that video, if you should become so unlucky : kzread.info/dash/bejne/iaxmzqVvptarmto.html But that worked for me..

Hi Morten! I am glad that I could provide you with a mystery. I hope there is a solution. You recall correctly. I had the battery plugged in to a light, and forgot it in a tarp, which was filled with water overnight. I took apart the battery, and let it dry out. Never got it to charge. It has been sitting around for a year at least. Luckily I found a 2-pack 5AH battery pack, and received a 9AH one for a gift (great for my chainsaw). ...and those pads are not filters - they an absorbent packing material to avoid essential oils from leaking all over the place while being shipped.

@MyPlayHouse

8 ай бұрын

Thank You for the mystery 🙂 I have really tried everything.. But I hope someone comes with a good sugestion.

@pseudonymity0000

8 ай бұрын

I have a bat with the same problem. Accidentally left my tool outside overnight and it rained. Brought it back in and let it dry, but it would not output voltage out of the stork, but battery's showed normal voltage when disassembled and tested. I got some more life out of it however, That reset symbol is not for them too solder joints, It's for the last through hole. I put my metre on to current, then pulled RST low to ground then high to 4 .4 volt. It then showed 5 bars of charge. but it goes back to 1 when put into a tool and still not output. The main difference between your battery and mine is that mine had absolutely zero signs of corrosion. No watermarks or anything. I'm worried that the battery microcontroller might deadlock Itself whenever it detects a fault condition. For your safety of course... Not to prevent repairability and sell more batteries, I'm sure. I know that you can buy a ryobi battery kit from this Chinese seller. I bought just a motherboard itself from them myself and it successfully got delivered. However, I accidentally popped the board by not watching where my wires were flying, And the lithium-ion batteries dumped their power somewhere where it shouldn't go... I have not yet bought another main board since, but it would be interesting to take both sets of cells and turn it into two smaller capacity batteries using their complete assembly kit. www.lithiumbatterypcb.com/product/p108-ryobi-5s-li-ion-battery-18v-pcb-board/

This battery was wet and was dried but it looks like the board was never taken off from the battery assembly. I think, when you take off the board, you'll find water damage on the other side. Also, taking off the board shuts down the MCU and it might reset the error state the battery is in. The board should be cleaned with alcohol at both sides and then, hopefully it can be fixed. Anyway, good to see the MCU is still alive. It is able to blink the led when you press the button. The MCU is the most problematic thing, because it is programmed and the only way you can find a replacement is to open another battery. Problem is most probably in the cell voltage measurement circuits. The MCU probably thinks one of the cells is dead but you measured all of them at 3.9V. The packaging and delivery time of the new mosfets suggest that you ordered them from China. Possibly these mosfets are relabeled or rejects. Use the original mosfets. They test good. If you need to order parts for repairing stuff, you should order at a reputable electronics component house. Those China components can be used in DIY stuff where current-carrying capability is not so important. I'd rather see 'dumb' batteries with a basic protection and balancing circuit in it. With those you can tinker. With the newer ones, not so much. There's an MCU that needs to be able to talk to the charger or the tool. The circuitry in my tools is even more convoluted. There's no protection mosfets in the battery itself. There's only the balancing and that annoying MCU. It communicates with the circuitry in the tool and it will not power on if the battery didn't say it is okay to do so. And it will also communicate with the charger. I've seen that communication on an oscilloscope. It is a digital data signal. So, if my tools need an okay signal from the battery in order to turn on, that means that I won't be able to power them from another source. Very annoying. If I would like to use my tool batteries as a power source in a safe way, I'll need to buy a sacrificial tool in order to get the full protection circuitry. Or just connect it up and hope that I don't discharge the battery to the point cell damage will occur. And if I would like to run my tools on an alternate power source, I need to buy a sacrificial 4Ah battery that will be able to provide the okay signal to the tool. (Some power-hungry tools won't run on the 2Ah battery) I didn't buy sacrificial stuff yet because I think it is wrong to sponsor this tool brand any more. I also don't have the time to try to reverse-engineer it and emulate the signals using an Arduino.

@MyPlayHouse

8 ай бұрын

Hi @fluffyblue4006 Thank You very much! that was a lot of info,,, glad you liked the video :-) Thank you for watching! :-)

@triggeral

Ай бұрын

❤❤ Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience!

The fact that the battery meter reads low, probably means there is a cooked current shunt resistor, or the micro is not able to measure the battery pack voltage with it's resistor divider. This could be a red herring, as the micro might just flash low battery when it's in fault condition... but I haven't pulled one apart to see as all my ryobi batteries still work ;)

@MyPlayHouse

8 ай бұрын

Best sugestion so far!! :-)

@uwepolifka4583

8 ай бұрын

I think if the shunt resistor is burnt the Mosfets should be burnt also because normaly the shunt can take more current than a mosfet. It seems that the mosfets are not getting a signal to their gates.

it almost looks like some acid or electrolyte leaked from the end batteries. the tabs were missing the shiny metal coating and looked kind of rusty/corroded. when you measured the diode i saw solder flake off. the electrolyte could have damaged/corroded copper traces in the cicruit board or the solder of parts connected to the board.

@MyPlayHouse

8 ай бұрын

All batteries measured fine and I had the PCB under a microscope,, and did not see anything,, missing :-/

your mosfets are behaving like they should. GATE(left pin) DRAIN(top tab/short middle pin) SOURCE(right pin) when you charge the gate the mosfet will allow current to flow from source to drain. if you short-circuit source to gate it will go back to behaving like a diode again between source and drain. the gate acts like a capacitor so it will hold a charge for a little while.

@mikehensley78

8 ай бұрын

to test a mostfet... black meter lead on SOURCE(right pin) red meter lead on DRAIN(tab or middle) should read OL. then holding black lead on SOURCE touch red lead to GATE then red lead to DRAIN. it should then be reading 0.0000. that tells you it is controlling the silicon switch. MOSFETs have body diodes for flyback protection between SOURCE and DRAIN.

@MyPlayHouse

8 ай бұрын

Yes,, I did not see the logic to start with,, normally they open and shout faster than I can move the peens.

You should get a component tester (I use the "deluxe" version with a scope and generator: FNIRSI DSO-TC3 less than 50€ but there're cheaper option for only tester function) it will give you more informations about the healt of diodes, capacitors or MOFSET than a multimeter

@MyPlayHouse

8 ай бұрын

Humm christmas is coming :-)

@bastian433

8 ай бұрын

@@MyPlayHouse LCR-T4 component tester also works well. it's called an LCR tester.

@bertblankenstein3738

8 ай бұрын

​@@MyPlayHousethe LCR-T4 is cheap. $21 CAD

Micro controller is dead. Your power FETs are not turning on. So you should have a voltage reading system the back bit you showed looks like the balance function as it's analogue... The would send a signal to the MC to turn on the fets. Just pull the BMS off, replace it. Print a bracket for the terminals so it can be used and job done.

@MyPlayHouse

8 ай бұрын

Hi @guywhoknows Thank You very much! glad you liked the video :-) Thank you for watching! :-)

The principle of diode test mode on a DMM is that the meter tries to force about 1 milliampere through the diode, or a resistor for that matter, and then tells the resulting voltage. But the key thing is, it cannot provide more voltage than the meter design has made available. That could be just 1.999 V for low cost (3 1/2 digit) meters and possibly a little more for fancier meters. If there is some external voltage over the diode, the meter internal 1 mA supply can not overcome it and shows just overload. All that means, you probably don't get any meaningful indication, when there is a 4-volt or higher battery involved around the diode. Then to the MOSFET story. All they have an internal parallel diode, inherent between the Source and Drain. For N-channel FET the diode structure is Cathode at Drain. The Gate is totally insulated from the other terminals -- only certain amount of capacitance. If you try to measure your "diode" between the gate and the source, you either charge or discharge the gate, depending on the polarity. For many FETs, the diode test voltage of the meter can charge the gate enough for the Drain to Source path to allow the tiny 1 mA test current to flow, an in fact in both directions. So the diode in parallel appears to be shorted. That means, your FET measurements were exactly as expected. I would suggest not pursuing more diode tests. Rather measure voltages, including is the group of small transistors supplying anything to the gates of the big FETs. Of course also, what are the voltages on battery series, not one by one, check the progress from one end to each pair. Your individual pair results indicated a well functioning (or functioned) BALANCING operation. Also, you don't seem to suffer from what I have experienced a couple of times -- opening of the internal pressure detecting fuse contact. That contact makes the cell totally disconnected and the only remedy is replacement. As a "fun" side story, I once tried to reset the pressure sensing dome. After some failed attempts, I succeeded, got the cell show respectful voltage and tried to charge the pack. All OK, but just a few moment with applied load, it popped open again. Apparently the increased length of the cell was permanent and pushed the dome to snap open, again from my marginal restoration. Sorry, I cannot give more relevant advice about your actual problem by just watching your video!

@MyPlayHouse

8 ай бұрын

Yarh,, lot´s of wisdom,, but no fix :-)

@WACKO1123

5 ай бұрын

OL does not mean Overload. It means "Over Limit". It means Infinity Ohms or basically and open circuit.

the angle grinder I took it from (and the LEDs of the BMS) didn't work until I put it on the Makita Charger for a short time.

@MyPlayHouse

8 ай бұрын

I do not think Makita and Ryobi is enough alike to have the same problems :-)

@Ubermeisteryyy

8 ай бұрын

I know that Milwaukee batteries also resets themself if plugged into a charger. @@MyPlayHouse

You might have to figure out which pins on the mosfets are the gate and figure out which ones need to be on and off, and then check to see if you are getting the voltages on tge gates you need to have power go to the tools. It is a deep drive type of fix. Ill assume the mosfets are off, and you then will have to troubleshoot the controlling circuit. You can use a good battery for comparison. Plan B, if you have a battery with a good board and bad cells, take the board and use it with the good cells.

@MyPlayHouse

8 ай бұрын

Plan C,,, get a new board ripoff from China :-)

I had a kind of similar Problem with a Makita BMS. Have you tried to put it on the original charger after repair/ resetting? Makita Chargers communicate with the BMS Chip, probably to make sure the cells are balanced. In my Case I had to charge the battery with a hobbyist LiPo Charger because I didn't have a working original one. The Pack was fully charged and worked fine outside the tool but

@MyPlayHouse

8 ай бұрын

Hi @r.funden4512 Thank You very much! glad you liked the video :-) Thank you for watching! :-)

What size and kind of torx screw did you use? I can't find the right torx for it. I'm reffering to the screws inside the batterry holder

@MyPlayHouse

3 ай бұрын

You need security torx, there is a little hole in the middle of them.

@fulcrum062505

3 ай бұрын

@@MyPlayHouse yeah I got all that part but do you happen to remember what size? I already bought 2 different sets of torx drivers but none fits. Btw, thanks for taking the time to answer, other content creators are a snob

@mommacass7401

Ай бұрын

@@fulcrum062505 size 10 torx

My guess is that this "smart" battery needs hacked firmware like they do with Dyson vacuum cleaner batteries. It's easier to buy a new one than to try to try to burn down your house with inept hands)

@MyPlayHouse

7 ай бұрын

Hi @spectreone2837 Thank You very much! glad you liked the video :-) Thank you for watching! :-)

nlba laptop battery analyzer you can read it over the pins near the reset and reset the battery etc and read the tempture sensor

@MyPlayHouse

8 ай бұрын

Hi @DDICyber Thank You very much! glad you liked the video :-) Thank you for watching! :-)

I have exactly the same symptoms on a Ryobi 4A battery. All cells are 3.8 to 3.9v What I noticed is if you monitor the voltage at the +/- terminal and press the button, for about 3 seconds I get 18v at those terminals. But I still haven't determined which component is failing.

@MyPlayHouse

5 ай бұрын

I did a later video,, replacing the BMS : kzread.info/dash/bejne/iaxmzqVvptarmto.html maybe you want to go this route..

BMS 5S 15A 18V 21V 18650 Li-ion Lithium Battery Charger Protection Board Balancer Power Bank Charger for Drill

@MyPlayHouse

8 ай бұрын

15A is wery much on the low side,, you can pull about a 1000W from a battery like this

@pauljrogers2885

8 ай бұрын

@@MyPlayHouse Good point. 3s/4s/5s Bms 12v 16.8v 21v 3.7v 100a Li-ion Lmo Ternary Lithium Battery Protection Circuit Board Li-polymer Balance Charging

@pauljrogers2885

8 ай бұрын

￡3.17 10+ pieces, extra 5% off P108 10*18650 Li-ion Battery Plastic Case Charging Protection Circuit Board PCB Box For RYOBI 18V P103 P118 BPL-1815 1820G ONE+@@MyPlayHouse

I think at least one of your battery is dead or leaking! I got the same problem as you!

@MyPlayHouse

5 ай бұрын

I did manage to fix it in a later video : kzread.info/dash/bejne/iaxmzqVvptarmto.html :-)

Maybe the mosfets get no on signal. If the electronic has a regulated power supply I would check if thr 5V or whatever is o.k.. Then look where the on signal can come from.

@MyPlayHouse

8 ай бұрын

There is so much stuff back there, that could cause that... :-/

Hi. I have a ryobi 18v, 1.5 Ah. When I measure voltage in the battery pack it shows 19.95v but if i measure it on the tower outlet it shows only 7.7 v. When pushing the test button it rises up to 19.95 as long as the green led is on then back to 7.7 when green led is off. The test gives only 2 green bars on. I don't understand why. Can you help me fixing it. Thank you

@MyPlayHouse

4 ай бұрын

If the cells are vell balanced, and you are still not getting good power out of it,,this is the only way I know right now : kzread.info/dash/bejne/iaxmzqVvptarmto.html

LOL, Apparently the link I added in my response got flagged as spam and I got a complaint about it... not spam at all youtube... anyhoo, This is essentially what it said: If so, use ‘mini-charges’ - slot the battery into the charger for a few secs, remove before the lights flash. Repeat up to 30 min until it has enough charge to ‘revive’ itself.

@MyPlayHouse

8 ай бұрын

You,, must have missed the part where I check all the cell´s and find that they are all super fine and in balances..

@digitalsparky

8 ай бұрын

@@MyPlayHouse Yeah, I saw that and considered it, but it may still be that the memory chip *thinks* it's dead and this process apparently forces it to get out of bed so to speak. Edit: this is because the onboard microcontroller runs it's battery safety program and stores values in it's memory. From what I understand, this process cycles and refreshes the memory, allowing the battery to essentially reset it's onboard system and grab updated values...

Where does the piece go that fell at the beginning????

@MyPlayHouse

4 ай бұрын

Up the end of the tower,, can be a little fatedly to get back in there.

Your problem may lie with the extensive corrosion shown at 7:55 in the time line. Stop there and you will see the issue right in front of you. There may be other issues, this one just jumped out at me... Joe

@MyPlayHouse

8 ай бұрын

as I change the mos fet´s and the batteries measure okay,, I do not think that is it.

👍

@MyPlayHouse

8 ай бұрын

Hi @skynetcybersystem3tech Thank You very much! glad you liked the video :-) Thank you for watching! :-)

"can't really see anything bad" as he is turning past all the green corrosion and the really nasty solder @7:55

@MyPlayHouse

8 ай бұрын

That is nothing!!

@Ubermeisteryyy

8 ай бұрын

Maybe Morten was wearing sunglasses in his creepy Danish basement? ;)

C27 looks to be missing on the board 23:58

@MyPlayHouse

8 ай бұрын

There are stuff missing,, that is pretty normal.

Not supposed to ship damaged or defective lithium batteries

@MyPlayHouse

8 ай бұрын

That is not helpful.

@MichaelP-ns

8 ай бұрын

@@MyPlayHouse it is to anyone that doesn't want to get fined, or worse.. A lot of people, apparently you included, don't understand that lithium batteries are hazardous material. For instance, you absolutely are not allowed to ship a battery via air, by itself, if it's more than 30% charged. Was that battery in your video charged? How do you know, it's damaged... That's why there's special handling requirements for damaged batteries.... Helpful enough or should I go on?

Mabie the battery has a brain that says it's time to quit. ?

@MyPlayHouse

8 ай бұрын

But I want to fix it :-/

it wants to play games

@MyPlayHouse

8 ай бұрын

Well It is winning for now..

.....Cero point six volts????????? What a waste of time

@MyPlayHouse

7 ай бұрын

Well I save this battery in my video this coming friday... not a total waste.

First 🎉

@MyPlayHouse

8 ай бұрын

╱╱╱╱╱╱╭╮╱╭╮╭╮╱╱╱╱╱╱╱╱╱╭╮╱╱╱╱╱╱╱╱╭╮ ╱╱╱╱╱╭╯╰┳╯╰┫┃╱╱╱╱╱╱╱╱╱┃┃╱╱╱╱╱╱╱╱┃┃ ╭╮╭┳━┻╮╭┻╮╭┫╰━┳━━┳╮╭╮╭┫┃╭━━┳━╮╭━╯┣━━┳━╮ ┃╰╯┃╭╮┃┃╱┃┃┃╭╮┃┃━┫╰╯╰╯┃┃┃╭╮┃╭╮┫╭╮┃╭╮┃╭╮╮ ┃┃┃┃╭╮┃╰╮┃╰┫┃┃┃┃━╋╮╭╮╭┫╰┫╭╮┃┃┃┃╰╯┃╰╯┃┃┃┃ ╰┻┻┻╯╰┻━╯╰━┻╯╰┻━━╯╰╯╰╯╰━┻╯╰┻╯╰┻━━┻━━┻╯╰╯ ╭╮╭╮╭╮╱╱╱╱╱╱╭━━━╮ ┃┃┃┃┃┃╱╱╱╱╱╱┃╭━╮┃ ┃┃┃┃┃┣━━┳━━╮┃┃╱┃┣╮╭╮╭┳━━┳━━┳━━┳╮╭┳━━╮ ┃╰╯╰╯┃╭╮┃━━┫┃╰━╯┃╰╯╰╯┃┃━┫━━┫╭╮┃╰╯┃┃━┫ ╰╮╭╮╭┫╭╮┣━━┃┃╭━╮┣╮╭╮╭┫┃━╋━━┃╰╯┃┃┃┃┃━┫ ╱╰╯╰╯╰╯╰┻━━╯╰╯╱╰╯╰╯╰╯╰━━┻━━┻━━┻┻┻┻━━╯ ╱╱╱╱╱╱╱╱╭━━━┳━━┳━━━┳━━━┳━━━━╮ ╱╱╱╱╱╱╱╱┃╭━━┻┫┣┫╭━╮┃╭━╮┃╭╮╭╮┃ ╱╱╱╱╱╱╱╱┃╰━━╮┃┃┃╰━╯┃╰━━╋╯┃┃╰╯ ╭━━╮╭━━╮┃╭━━╯┃┃┃╭╮╭┻━━╮┃╱┃┃╱╱╭━━╮╭━━╮ ╰━━╯╰━━╯┃┃╱╱╭┫┣┫┃┃╰┫╰━╯┃╱┃┃╱╱╰━━╯╰━━╯ ╱╱╱╱╱╱╱╱╰╯╱╱╰━━┻╯╰━┻━━━╯╱╰╯

Why the annoying background music. It's wasn't necessary to have to watch you unbox the battery. Just get to the facts and quit wasting our time. I won't be following you for sure.

@MyPlayHouse

Ай бұрын

Aren't you a whining bitch :-) Why are you watching this video at all,, it clearly states that I failed fixing this battery,, and to be quite hornets,, you are properly not much help in that regard.

first point of call is visual inspection of all components, you didn't take the board off the battery and inspect the underside, there might be a clue underneath, just something you missed.Did you smell the board for burnt components? Reset button: I would leave for 10 seconds Your turning on/off the mosfets with the voltage from the multimeter, thats how you test mosfets!! zero reading: mosfet open current will flow o.4 reading: voltage drop of o.4 volt meaning high resistance mosfet closed no current can flow, well tiny trickle. Ok I just read all the comments, I dont think you mentioned the inside had got wet!! Possibility the pins on the icu shorted and damaged the icu, if it wont reset I suspect new board is in order, its still a good battery pack since voltages were good, can use for other projects maybe. If can buy a new board that will solve it. Just a note: I have a an irobot vacuum, their battery pack you cant read voltage on them, even when good, I'm not sure how it works but battery doesn't turn on until connected to the vacuum unit....I have no idea if ryobi have similar. this guy fixes same one via q10 kzread.info/dash/bejne/h4amp9Olla23Zps.html

@MyPlayHouse

8 ай бұрын

Hi @namenotshown9277 Thank You very much! that was a lot of info!! glad you liked the video :-) Thank you for watching! :-)

@namenotshown9277

8 ай бұрын

didn't feel like alot of info, please let us know the outcome of your project@@MyPlayHouse