The Internet is lucky to have people like you.

@cassk9999

7 жыл бұрын

I agree his a gem

@alycestapleton

6 жыл бұрын

flavourboss you mean KZread. You do not need internet for KZread

A refreshing educational to the point, no nonsense, perfectly explained and articulated video that can be applied to all heads. If your thinking of picking up a die grinder and doing some head work; this is all you have to watch.. Nicely done; thank you...

Read, research and read some more. Im in the same boat as you, I love cars, but I do not have much hands on experience. Just watching these kinds of videos, reading forums and reading other resources online has really helped my understanding. Unless you can buy a cheap car to work on without fear of messing stuff up, it will just take time reading and watching stuff online.

I am a Subaru guy and I ported (removed castings and smoothed all exhaust sides to a mirror). I really enjoy the vids man!

Big big help. Im starting to port my foxbody heads tomorrow. And your videos just gave me all the extra info i need. 2 thumbs up for sure.

Great advise and good communication skills. Appreciate the time you took to document this.

I love your genius use of the fast foreward

wow im really glad i came across these videos. i appreciate your in-depth details and instruction. wish more people did this.

one question : i can read on the net that exhaust flange should be wider than the port itself to create a ridge. it's supposed to prevent backflow in the port excepted if you have a supercharger (so a load even at low rpm and no scavenging effect required as i understand that) you're supposed to keep the ridge. so to have the port matched to the manifold flange is a mistake that i did. what do you know about that ? i found nothing.

I have a ton of respect for you. Ur hard work definitely shows here. I haven't seen a block look that nice in a while. I am starting a Ver6 STi RA build, and I really want to take the time to make my engine look nice. I do want more power, but I like to take pride in my work as it looks like u do as well, so I'd like it to look like yours does. You have inspired me to learn as much as I possibly can about flow. Thank you for your videos, and please continue to post more!

All this reference material... really does make my day, thanks jafro.

Excellent video, very honest narration and a topic not many people cover very well. Thanks for the upload!

The best video I've ever watched about port and polish. Thanks a lot!!!

Thank you for the video, great explanation, took a lot of the mysteries out of it for me!

Most helpful video on porting heads Ever .. thank you

Dude, you're amazing. The info on your channel is excellent. Thank you!!

here i am again watching another porting video of yours, more than likely i will follow it up with the porting and polishing video which will make it the fourth time watching the polishing video lmao, clearly addicted to shiny things.

@mikecampbell5178

8 жыл бұрын

You Too?!?

i love your videos! i cant wait till you do the 200 series video where you actually do some port work. keep up the good work man. ive learned so much from your videos. thanks for doing all of this.

you have to combine the two in a port. very slight conical shaped main gallery then wider just before the valve guide to compensate this obstacle by slowing down the flow gaining pressure. you need to have a larger side of the of the valve guide more than the other to have a better bias effect and better flow. there is a guy doing heads for bikes that reduced the diameter of the intake ports and he has more hp than the others because of the higher speed of his mixture. better efficiency

Great editing. I learned much. Subscribed

Just wanted to say thanks for posting all your video's and taking the time to make them.

Really good video! Learned lots of stuff

excellent video. Ive been hand porting cylinder heads since I was 14. You've managed to touch on most of the important area's when thinking about porting jobs. too high a port velocity also affect performance just as much as low velocity ports and it all ties in with where in the rev range you want to make max torque.

ahhhhhh, its like drinking a well earned beer, the satisfaction i derive from watching your videos!

Great mechanic here. I have watched this video before but I can always learn.

I really enjoy your videos, jafro.

Excellent video, well done.

This video has helped me so much, thanks for the info!

these videos are gold!! thank you!!!

I've worked with pressure die cast tooling, and "flash" as we knew it by was quite a problem at times, usually the result of poor bedding in of mating die steels, or core pin mis-match. Net result was it meant another tooling operation to trim it off which cost time & money & so on. Excellent video once again. Nice to see a Mic once more... :-)

Great write ups on your channel. Very informative

i love how your vids now have royal purple ads at the beginning..it feels like im tuning into Horsepower TV and your vids are way better! thumbs up dude!

Excelent video! Can't thank you enough!!

Great video's, I learn a ton from everyone.. Especially anything that can be ported.. You mentioned there was no way available to slow the speed of an electric die grinder when in actuality harbor freight sells a router speed controller, basically a reostat that can allow one to slow the speed of an electric die grinder for example..I own the speed controller and harbor freight long reach electric die grinder and the speed controller makes all the difference in the world..Also have a makita electric long reach die grinder with build in speed settings so it is possible to slow the speed to your situation, just thought I'd share that bit of info... Hope it helps someone else who reads this.. Thank you once again for your channel, There are some video's that I rewatch especially in the Coronavirus lock down that I learn so much from..One can never be to overly informed..I try to be a sponge and absorb as much useful knowledge as possible on a daily basis.. There are not many folks that put forth the time and effort as you do and it's appreciated.. Even the pokes & jokes make it all worth while.. Thanks again for great video content..

awesome video great job !

Great video mate!!

thank you jafro for another great vid

great work man.

Very nice job my friend you did a great job editing the dialouge

Outstanding video. Rebuilding a dodge engine (home garage mechanic) and your tips are GREAT! thanks much

i could watch this all day...

Another great video jafro!

subscribed. Great video!

8:40 this sharp edge is the disagreement . you create lift and turbulences while the stock round edge keep a calm laminar flow like on the nose of a submarine. i mean the first contact point of the air in your port will be this edge : if you kill the quality of the flow here the rest of the port will suffer of those turbulences. My technical vocabulary is quite limited i'm not North American. i hope you understood this time. ; )

i done my head polishing my self came out very smooth !

Holy shit I'm gonna polish my heads! Looks great!

Great videos mate. Once you finished all the grinding and polishing how or what do you use to clean the head before you re-build it. Many thanks from over the pond UK

Thoughts on grinding the bottom of the seat on the intake side. There is a step there it's like hitting a wall. Also grinding the valve seal smooth. And just clean the casting lines up. And a gasket match.

You...Are a Sir!!! Thanks for sharing!!!!!

i was speaking of the ridge between the exhaust port and the manifold wich helps to prevent backflow. i knew about the speed of the gas and the size ansd shape of the exit. i found nothing on the backflow and this ridge. you wrote "As gasses expand, they cool" ? they are slower as they cool because they take less volume and loose vivacity as i know. i missed something ?

I use a big electric die grinder for porting like the one you say not to use. One trick to slowing it down a bit is to make a short extension cord with a junction box on the end. Wire an outlet to a dimmer switch in the junction box.

Man you do some good work.

Any time heads come off it is always a good idea to remove the flashing. I have done that since I was 16 and i'm old lol

Great vid. Only recommendation I would add is get a swivel fitting for your die grinder. That way you're not contending with the weight of the air hose. I use swivel fittings on every small air tool I own and it makes one heckuva difference.

@DENicholsAutoBravado

9 жыл бұрын

+Mark - Awesome!

Not into 4cyl but the head is almost identical to a 4v Ford Modular v8. It's all these many small imperfections clean up that make an engine so much better.

very interesting...ty for posting

Thanx but it really takes skill & patients to do what you did to yours port and polish %100 inside and out. Well done

What do they say about knife edges in it ?

Tape actually works wonders to prevent oops when working around the valve seats. It's usually enough to let you get away with that first "oops", which is usually all you need. :)

I realize this is 6 years down the road, but if you made a play list of these head work videos that would be awesome.

Great video. Just wanted to add something, if for whatever reason you do your own porting and you wind up flowing slightly more air into certain cylinders than others because of uneven porting, you have another option to correct that mistake without going to a machine shop. Get your hands on an ECU that offers individual cylinder tuning as a feature, this way you can dial in your air/fuel with each cylinder individually using multiple O2 sensors, and not just collectively using one O2 sensor...

hi i like your clip, i used to port heads 25 years ago and i used to back up what i found on engine dynes so i know a little about porting . what a lot of people forget is fuel flows throw the port as well and that is wear a thing called swirl is very very important, and fuel control throw the port how you do that DO NOT MATCH PORT because the fuel will trace along the wall of the port you need to get that back up into the air flow so it can mix with air so your not wasting fuel this means more power and better fuel economy . how do you do that is went you blow air across a 90 degree angle you creat a low pressure witch can draw on a liquid say with when blow air over a straw in water it will draw the water up the straw and into the air stream . now if the intake port is larger than the intake runner or manifold by 1/8 of an inch you will make a step witch is a 90 degree so when the fuel is traveling down the wall of the runner it will come to the step and pool the air stream will pull the fuel back up into the air stream . i now you get better flow figure on a flow bench, but when you dyno the engine you don't get the HP when you step just the intake you get a richer mixture on the dyne when you lean the mixture out up comes the HP if you don't believe me try it thanks jake

@DENicholsAutoBravado

9 жыл бұрын

+TheJVR333 Hmmm, you obviously know way more than I do, but I'm wondering if this is truer with fuel pulled from a carburetor than from a misting fuel injector?

a perfect score.... you can bore out the sides of turbo intake/exhaust ports, but like you've stated, it ruins atomization and velocity levels

LOL that's what I'm doing right now! I was too tired to watch it late night.

air tools are great and all..but I just used my HF electric die grinder...except I took a wall switch lamp dimmer and made a speed controller box ;)

perfect instruction !

FYI: I do have experience porting cylinder heads, however I am only a novice. Just some general tips before anyone begins to port out a head. 1) TAKE YOUR TIME...rushing on a crucial engine part such as a cylinder head is only going to hurt you. 2) Make sure you have the proper tooling, die grinder, rotary files, stones, etc. 3) Clean your head, nothing to obstruct your vision. 4) Let there be light (have ample light going into the runner or whatever you are working on).

Have to start off the day with a jafro video :)

would it help to put some sort of tape over the 'no griding areas' just in case you fatigue while doing the above?

If you want almost the same intake and / or exhaust port, use some big ball bearing or shaped material to check the size and shape of the ports.

nice man

yay new video :D

1:15 that's "flash". They should have all that ground away at the factory. I figure since it is not something you would normally see, they just leave it on .

I used to have that Eclipse Hot wheel lol

Thanks for the feedback; I have another question if you don't mind. What all do I have to do if I need to change out my rings. I did a leak down test on one of my cylinder and the compression is low. I saw you video on the block. Do I have to hone it out if all is in order or can I put them in like that? Is there any way to test them before putting this motor back in. please keep the video coming. This is my first year in auto school. Thanks a million for your help

If i was you i would clean up the two but enlarge one port only. the other would keep max speed airflow for turbulences at low rpm and would be good for torque. once full and out of breath the bigger port would take the work of big rpm flow and charge of you turbo engine. it's what they do on the early tdi engines for max torque on a quite big powerband

Why is a 130w dremel not enough ? I find it perfect with carbide burrs for coarse work and very nice with a flex shaft for finishing. I even ball ported a head with one.

@Jafromobile

5 жыл бұрын

It's just a little on the slow side, that's all. It doesn't have anywhere near the torque and speed of air tools with 100+PSI behind them. With the exact same careful hands using air tools, you can deliver the same results in a fraction of the time. The Dremel makes up for its lack of speed in its light weight and the size of the tool, though. It's more comfortable to use and that's just fine for the time it takes to get the job done. If you have both, well then that's even better.

NICE

I hope you’re still active jafro, building a 6 bolt for a colt swap. Do you recommend ditching the 1G head? Worried Id be making a crazy amount of extra work. Is the flow that much better on the 2 g head

I just noticed the rough casting flaw in the edge of your combustion dome. Have you done anything with this, or just run it as is?

Where do you find the long shaft bits

Polishing the exhaust may not make more power but the carbon doesnt stick as easily

Jafro, I always find myself looking for one of your video uploads sometimes mutiple times a day. Ha. Kinda wierd if you think about it. Guess it's the fact you make great informative video's, mess with these old POS cars I love so much, and wear Redskin's gear. GO SKINS!!!. Anyway..keep it up man. You help and entertain so much. One comment I'd like to address is you shouldn't so much touch the runners on the exhaust. I thought this was true with the intake more than the exhaust?

ur sohc has the exhust and intake over each cylinder and the sohc head is only made to fit 1 cam so if u want to do it properly ud have to make ur own cam and head or if ur lucky the block is based on a sumlar design and u can swap out nissians and holden have this in rb seiries engine dont know witch if u want to do it the dicky way ull have to make a bearing holder that works on ur existing head cut ur exust and intake parts so there seperate put spockets on it and make a chain drive system

shiny runners are a bad thing for intake valves but i think might work on a exhaust runner

big fan of velocity and turbulences ? the squish is your friend. Work more on your bias effect it helps a lot. you need two stroke engines porting books they give good ideas too.

Very good video ! One objection, The intake divider should not be done sharp. Airfoils dont have a sharp leading edge...

You said not to work on the combustion chamber side of the valve seat. What about un-shrouding the valves by rounding out that shoulder that is on the combustion chamber side of the valve seat, while avoiding the the mating surface of the valve. (I am referring to 14:27 in the video) The reason I ask is because I have been doing this, and then following up by polishing the combustion chamber, and will be measuring/equalizing the combustion chamber volume across the head, and this made me nervous

Does it make sense on turbo'd engines, too ?

What about throwing painter's tape on the seat? Are there fail-safes to avoid killing your valve job?

@Jafromobile

8 жыл бұрын

+Ryan Eaton Painters tape wont protect you from making mistakes. It's just not strong and impenetrable enough to protect you when you miss. I used it as a warning. It wasn't enough to stop me from screwing up. Perhaps a portion of that was me, but I felt like I was being careful. You've gotta spend an awful lot of time hovering over it, and everything goes a blur.

was this issue only with 1g heads? or 2g aswell? i have an evo 3 and am kinda worried now :/

You should invest in a zillawhip for your die grinder it really reduces fatigue when using one for prolonged periods of time.

Go on Amazon and search for "Pit Pro PT2440 Heavy Duty Extended Die Grinder" This is simply the best pneumatic die grinder I've ever used for porting. Air flow consumption is pretty good and it gets in far without needing long-shank bits that can bend or torque their way out of the collet. It's also easier to manipulate when the hand that guides the bit doesn't also have to squeeze the regulator lever.

good video polish exhouse for reduce,s heat to the head (and reduce hanging carbon) and tool finish intake port for superior feul to air atomization you are handy ,a flowbench made with vacume cleaners and a (bosch) car airflow sensor can be used to measure flow treu the ports (ducati flowbench v1, on youtube) succes with your project

the material there is called casting flash, by the way

When can i send you my HHR SS LNF Head to port ?

planes, whales, birds,submarines,speed records cars, formula one aerodynamic appendices etc..... intake scoops on mustang p51 design directly used in dragster hood scoop. cooling diffusers etc etc...... the nose of your car......

Jafro, how often in your carrier you have met a 4G.. sorry Proton engine head with cracks around combustion chamber? Does it happen quite often? I have litteraly yesterday finished a headgasket job (Ive sent a head for skim, valve lap and a COLD pressure test), but now I can see, a bit of whitish/greyish smoke from my exhaust. And Im confused now..

can valve seats cause compression lost?

Please somebody i have an important question if anybody can help ill be very glad guys -IF I DO A 3angle valve job WILL THE VALVE SEAT KEEP THE ORIGINAL STD SIZE?

@Jafromobile

10 жыл бұрын

Yes. It will just recess them slightly. Slightly decreasing your seat pressure because it slightly increases the length of the spring on the other side of the valve when the valve is closed. Each time you do a valve job, it adds up. As long as you keep your spring pressure correct for the cams you're using and how you use them, you'll be fine. There's a video about spring pressure and install height. Cylinder Head 203

@aLeXxFeLiXx

10 жыл бұрын

Thank you!, the question is just because i bought a set of supertech titanium valves before i wanted to do the 3-angle valve job and i was afraid that the valves wouldn't fit, but thanks im gonna make my head the 3angle job!

@jockellis

9 жыл бұрын

I've read that titanium valves require bronze seats. Is this true?

@1-shotslinger108

8 жыл бұрын

+Hugh O'Brien That clearance would seize the valve in the guide for air cooled .

@1-shotslinger108

8 жыл бұрын

+Hugh O'Brien I work on Harley heads and if you don't use proper clearance the stem seizes in the guide. The guides I use always have to be reamed to spec . There is never clearance out of the box.