Very helpful video. The topic was presented very thoroughly. Many thanks.

This guy sounds so wonderfully like Jim Broadbent. Awesome video.

For those who still have not read the notes, those are extracts from comercial dvds that are on sale. Thats why everything is not unveiled ;)

Very well done! Thank you for your effort.

@Bagelo55 a carabiner would add more friction to the system and therefore makes it harder to pull the guy up, since more of your efforts are converted to heat and friction instead of actual movement. a pulley simply "makes life easier" as said in the video. in an emergency situation, a biner would do the job of course.

So helpful, thanks

HELPPPPPPPPPPPPP!!!!

You can go past the anchor. Only reason you don't is because when going past you may disturb the snow around the anchor and it will rip out. It is just as important NOT to go within a few feet below the anchor as well as this will likewise disturb the snow and can cause anchor failure.

I use two prusik at the anchor to ensure safety (to grab, to set, fail over) because one my not catch if you slip or something goes wrong. When I say do not pull your buddy up fast, I don't mean the anchor.. I mean the gear you are using because if a load shock happens, things may blow out due to the stress of the shock. Also it is a standard to use two prusik knots at the anchor, check out CMC Rescue.

I have never seen such a nice crevasse with monster area around it. Yes, use your leg muscles! About time someone points out that anyone with a half assed brain uses their legs. When you don't have space you sit in the snow and do "squats" with the rope wrapped around your waist just as if you are belaying with your free hand to mind the prussics. You get about 18" per pull and when tension is taken off subsides back about 6-12". It is paramount to keep z system compact short.

It looks as though there's only one anchor set in this example. I've found that it's always best to have a backup in case the one fails.

Question - when hauling, why would going past the anchor risk pulling it up? All load on the anchor is still coming from below it/direction of crevasse no?

I have used 3 to 1 systems before in SAR, I would consider using two prusik knots at the anchor. Why you say? To ensure more safety when pulling someone up and to provide a fail safe. What he is doing everything RIGHT in the video but I use two pruisk knot. Also dealing with 3 to 1 systems, know how much load you are putting on the system/ropes. Do not pull your buddy up to fast or put to much stress on the 3to1 system... as it may blow. Understand the Pro and Cons of your equipment.

how do you stop the ratchet prussik running thru the top anchor krabiner?

I have a question. Sometimes is common for the anchor prussik to pass the carabiner when pulling. On a two person team I've seen some books recommend tying a bachman to avoid this problem. Any other suggestions? besides using a rachet of course

My only question is that if your partner falls into a crevasse and you're standing there hold them, how are you supposed to set up a snow anchor while holding them? And then setting all this up.

Goat rescue

0:20 LOLOLOL

cool

Is there no way out to avoid crevasses.

im confused about this as well

That must be why those horrible ab workouts are called mountain climbers

putting a bag is dangerous

k2... Speed of pulling up makes no difference on the load on the anchor. Increasing the pull force on the rope increases the load on the anchor. Increasing Pull force does not equate to higher speed. Depends on all the friction in the system. 2 prussics is ludicrous at the anchor. If you break prussic equates to: just broke your buddy in half. Literally. Even 6mm nylon has breaking strength of well over 1000lbs if you still use nylon instead of spectra. Spectra break strength 5000lbs.

Then your prussics aren't wrapped correctly if you are worried about it. 4 wraps instead of 3... Besides it doesn't matter if the prussic slips unless you are an idiot and leave the rope end unattended. That is why you tie the end off you are pulling on when you check the lip and make sure your buddy is ok. If you do 2 prussics at anchor you now have to carry 4 prussics. Likewise, if rope is icy having 2 prussics with same # wraps won't help much. Need another wrap and tighten by hand

Heeeelp =(

boring. hey did any one remember michael jackson, wow he was the best