I hope you like the video. If so, send it to your friends. Maybe it will make someone happy and maybe it will help. If not, please write a few words what you do not like. I would love to learn and improve my videos. 😉🙏

@rus84d

8 ай бұрын

Tube connector on top of the radiator, you have left it half turn untightened, but i have not seen it is tightened until the end of the video?

You just saved my life. Big time. Had a nozzle snap inside of the hotend while I was trying to unclog it, had no idea what anything was, and barely had the right tools. But this just showed me how to do everything easily. I hope you see this and i liked and subscribed! ❤

Thank you for the video tutorial. After removing and reinstalling the nozzle I would recommend running through bed level/z offset process as the nozzle distance from bed will likely have changed. Cheers 👍😎🇦🇺

I damaged my heat-break trying to remove it from the heat block but still managed to get everything working right. The has completely fixed my under-extrusion issue. I used a washer that came with an m3 screw kit. Thanks.

God bless you bro. You are my hero. I couldn't solve my hotend problem but after your video my problem is solved. Thank you

Everything is well explained and good :) but don't heat the Hotend to 260°C that's to hot for the PTFE. PTFE lined Hotends should only be heated up to 240°C that's especially important for printing operations!

@Zemistr3D

Жыл бұрын

While PTFE is stable and nontoxic at lower temperatures, it begins to deteriorate at temperatures of about 260 °C (500 °F), it decomposes above 350 °C (662 °F), and pyrolysis occurs at temperatures above 400 °C (752 °F). This is also why Ender has a temperature limit of 260 °C. You still need to set the highest temperature you can print at to make sure the nozzle doesn't loosen.

@LemberTheMember

Жыл бұрын

@@Zemistr3D Ok, I always read about 240°C beeing the max. at least for long printing operations, but if that's the case 260°C should be fine ✌️ I would still recommend keeping a buffer so it wouldn't start to deteriorate. :)

@helgemoller5158

Жыл бұрын

Hi, the deteriorate of the PTFE Tube depends on the quality of the tube. Some can go up to 260 for short, time some don´t like 230. The better solution is to use a full metal heatbreak. Any "modern" avoids contact of any PTFE tube at the heatzone.

@Zemistr3D

Жыл бұрын

@@helgemoller5158 In another video will be upgrade to the all metal hotend. I'm waiting some parts from China. 😅 I'm trying do the upgrades in some logic and budget way.

I wanted to let you know this worked great for me. Just installed this week! Thank you!

This is a great video, super helpful with my printing. The video is also perfectly structured for clarity. 5/5

Really nice video, I'm definitely going to do this next time the PTFE tube pulls away from the nozzle.

didny=t think i would be upgrading my ender 3 first time i try to print something but I was unlucky and got a lemon. not only did i have to deal with the z axis not being aligned propperly which is something i noticed immediately during assembly because it wouldn't just drop into the coupling (i now have a flexable coupling and that fixed it plush a shim behind the stepper motor) i have it heated 30 min total and thermal runaway and i decided just replace the whole thing since fixing the thermistor is a 6 month fix while this is Permanente.

Followed instructions exactly as told. Down to measuring with a caliper. Instant clog within minutes. And NO. It's not the retraction.

If you dont have a worm , a grub-screw will work..... Or source a worm from outside when it is raining XD

I bought this exact hot because it has a better themoster and And Not even after 30 minutes of use because I only hated up three times I was getting thermal run away. I hurry up! Trying to get the phone again. After that I thought I had it in and I tried to put a calibration cube and there was no extrusion. I then tried to put the filament t in again and went away for 10 min and I come back to hear a constant beep and it says thermal runaway.

or buy $5 bimetal heatbreak to make it all metal and never worry again. 5months in and I haven't had a single problem

@Zemistr3D

Жыл бұрын

I wanted to show how to do it without spending money. But yeah... All metal or bi-metal is for sure better choice.

@Boorne2Kill

Жыл бұрын

$5 where? $15 on Amazon

@clixium

Жыл бұрын

@@Boorne2Kill AliExpress, I bought mine from Maccurat store as well as bunch of others parts. 6months in not one clog or issue

@Zemistr3D

Жыл бұрын

@@Boorne2Kill I am now testing this one and it works perfectly. I just had to add some thermal paste around the part of the heatbreak, which goes into the heatsink. s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DFtgAeL

@D4RKFiB3R

Жыл бұрын

@@Zemistr3D That says it is for CR10. Is it also compatible with Ender 3 V2? Edit: I realised that yes, it is compatible. Thanks

Fiz aqui, aparentemente deu certo, vamos ver por quanto tempo dura.

Very informative. Thank you for teaching me something new.

Thank you for a very nicely done video. I like the modification, but experienced some difficulties with the filament passing through the O-ring and getting to the heat block. Any suggestions?

@Zemistr3D

Жыл бұрын

Try to enlarge the inlet opening on the separator a bit.

That's work it bro Thanks so much :D

I tried to remove the heatbreak without scratching it like you said but I wasn't able to, if the heat break is scratched it's a problem?

@Zemistr3D

Жыл бұрын

In case of this heatbreak not so much. Don't you worry. 😉

Great video.

Well I wish I would have tried this before purchasing a better heat break. I could have saved myself some money.

Great 👏👍🏻

Well done! Subbef