I can truly appreciate how you focus on putting out quality content. Unlike others who put out rapid fire videos without much info your videos always have substance. I always look forward to your post.

@pedromq7807

2 жыл бұрын

100%

Great point he made on the grading stakes. This is the first video that I’ve seen that talked about great stakes and where are there located and how to find them. Need More videos on Grade stakes

Love the attention to detail on the footing! Well done

@HeirloomBuilders

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks buddy!

I just discovered your channel and I’m do interesting, the view is amazing SUBSCRIBED

Great video. Thank you.

@HeirloomBuilders

2 жыл бұрын

You’re welcome. I’m glad you liked this one. My favorite vids are the ones that have my son doing random stuff in the background 🤣

Yaaayyy, you're back 💃💃💃

Bet you'll encapsulate the crawlspace? Cheers & best for 2022!

@HeirloomBuilders

2 жыл бұрын

For sure! We’ll put bora foam insulation on the walls and 10 mil plastic down on the crawlspace floor

you're doing exactly what i will do someday with my 26'x55' house in NC. i will put down membrane at the dirt and have no crawl space vents. the moisture will be controlled. the mech and hot water heater will be in the crawl space as well. what is the size of your footing? looks like 24" wide x 12" high w/ 2 #4's at the bottom. that's it. what's the psi of the concrete? 3,000? did you wet down the dirt before placing the concrete? don't get snowed on Monday! really looking forward to seeing the block, etc. hugs!

@HeirloomBuilders

2 жыл бұрын

You got it. Except the footer is only 10” thick instead of 12” - single story layout for this one. Cheers!

Is it permissible by code to have steel rebar that is embedded in the concrete to protrude into surrounding soil? (Referring to the "grade stakes") Also wondered why the footers were not wrapped with vapor barrier on the bottom and sides?

so it looks like you scraped off the first foot then dug 24" deep x 24" wide trenches for footings with spot footings at int cols. then slightly wetted the bottom before pouring the concrete 10" thick x 24" with the 2 #4 rebars. question: why not just a 10" deep trench after you scrapped off the first 12"? 24" deep just to get to better soil and stronger for wind/storm loads? will be interesting to see how the block walls work. drainage? water proof at the below grade? looks like about a 5" slump so the concrete can somewhat level itself and be easy to work. thanks again!

@HeirloomBuilders

2 жыл бұрын

We need to step the footing because it's only allowed a certain slope by code. And the brick masons don't want to have to cut each block on the first course to get a level row of block. We plan to paint on an asphalt-based waterproofing and install a french drain after the masons are done.

@justthink5854

2 жыл бұрын

@@HeirloomBuilders my bright idea was to just use the slopes for the footing (like i did on downslopes in the Bay Area, but of course the conc beams were much bigger and connected to conc piers at 7' oc max) then build a pony wall back when a 2x6 was less than $3. now just doing it the way they suggest and are comfy with with the block is way cheaper than the 2x6's, then sheathing, then siding then painting, although you still have to paint the block. (when in Rome...) my 26'x55' house will be (exist grade looking from the street), 92' left front. 91' rt front. 86' left rear. 85' rt rear. with a crew of 3 the pony wall, sheeting, tji joists with a center beam could be built in a day. the floor deck and walls (9' so windows and sliders are 8' high. huge visual dif) and zip sheathing the next 2 days. roof trusses (26' dim means cheaper trusses. scissors at the live/kitchen/dine great room). and roof deck the next day.

wont those grade steaks rot out from being staked into the ground?

@HeirloomBuilders

5 ай бұрын

Probably after 75 years they will be rotten, but it only leaves a tiny void that will not hurt the footing

Hey Logan check your Instagram msgs. Thanks in advance!