Complete Guide to the Bowler (Derby) Hat & How To Wear It
Тәжірибелік нұсқаулар және стиль
Discover the origins of the bowler hat, its rich and curious history, and how to wear it with style: gentl.mn/bowler-hat-guide
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→ Script: Aaron White & Preston Schlueter
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00:00 Bowler Hat Introduction
One of the most popular hat styles is the bowler, and while it’s rarely seen in today’s modern fashion, it’s definitely a classic, which we here at the Gentleman’s Gazette continue to appreciate.
00:40 What Is A Bowler Hat?
Also referred to as a “derby hat” depending on your location, it's a stiff hat. It can be made from polyester, wool felt, or for the best quality possible, fur felt.
03:21 History of the Bowler Hat
It started in 1849. The bowler wasn’t originally designed for style but rather for practicality.
04:45 Why does this hat have so many names?
▬ The hat was originally known as the “Coke hat” named after the Earl, William Coke.
▬ The gamekeepers who wore the hat at Holkham Hall gave it the moniker “Billy Coke” after William Coke, which later morphed into “Billycock.”
▬ Thomas and William Bowler started making more of these hats for the public and decided to market them under their own name as “bowler hats,” which is why this is the most common name for them today. Lock & Co, however, does still refer to this hat style as “the Coke.”
▬ In England, the 12th Earl of Derby began a series of annual horse racing events called the Oaks Stakes named after his estate in 1780. It was later renamed the Derby Stakes and is now known as the Epsom Derby. The word “derby” here meaning a flat race between three-year-old horses.
06:38 19th & 20th Century Bowlers
09:37 The Decline of the Bowler Hat
13:10 Wearing A Bowler Hat: Classic Look
14:15 Casual Look
14:38 Avoid: 1. Mass-Produced-Looking Hats
Most bowlers that are made today are often made cheaply and will use polyester blends or, sometimes, even 100% polyester felts in their construction.
16:15 2. Hats with Feathers (For Non-Hipster Looks)
Feathers in men’s hats date back as far as the 16th century, but they largely died out by around the 17th century, with the exception of military fashions. By the time of the bowler hats introduction, feathers weren’t very popular unless going for a distinctly costumey or theatrical look.
16:45 3. Women’s Bowler Hat Styles
Women’s styles typically sport much shorter brims that are often snapped up all the way around or down all the way around and feature feminine accents like flowers, lace, or large ribbons. These are, again, more in line with cloche styles. They’re also usually softer in construction as opposed to the men’s styles, which, again, are hard and shaped.
20:52 Bowler Hat Care Tips
Before each wear of a bowler hat, you should remember to brush it off with a hat brush as even the smallest amount of dust on the hat that comes into contact with moisture, like raindrops, can potentially leave a stain on the hat’s surface.
21:23 Outfit Rundown
Пікірлер: 299
The bowler hat with a black suit and umbrella was once the "walking out" dress for British officers, which is why it is seen when veterans march with their former units in the UK.
This is a great video. I actually had no idea the bowler hat was primarily seen as a working class hat for so long. As a blue collar man who works with his hands, I've been trying to introduce more timeless looks (mostly I love Edwardian styles) into the way I dress every day, even while on the job. I know you mostly seem to make videos on very formal wear, but I'd really like to see a video for blue collar workers like myself and how we can look our best while being practical and vintage.
I have been waiting for this video for 2 years. I utterly adore bowler hats and am so happy we finally have a definitive guide on them with the mellifluous narration of Preston's voice.
@bigtoelittlefinger6133
Жыл бұрын
I have just acquired a coke hat for 5 Scottish pounds in bonnie Scotland in a place cauld paisley ....just as well am fae Scotland
I think a bowler hat looks best when paired with an all white outfit, complete with suspenders, a jockstrap and a pair of black combat boots. That really sharpens you up for a bit of the old ultraviolence!
@lemonysnicket3153
3 жыл бұрын
Clockwork orange vibes
@marshallemmet1366
3 жыл бұрын
It's real horrorshow to viddy such platties!
@andychrist2922
Жыл бұрын
"I'M CURED!"
@bigtoelittlefinger6133
Жыл бұрын
I concur sir
@worm_vaquero
9 ай бұрын
Ultra violence
Just a quick point for our American friends - Leicester is pronounced "les-ter" rather than "lie-ster" :)
@gentlemansgazette
3 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the clarification! Sometimes those subtle pronunciation differences can be pesky; I was surprised to hear the narrator of the Pathé reel mispronounce "Coke," for instance. :) - Preston
@mungulor
3 жыл бұрын
@@gentlemansgazette I can only apologise for our strange, British pronunciations that seem to go directly against the spellings!
@brunogiambroni1422
3 жыл бұрын
I’ve been pronouncing it Like-Esther 😂 Thanks for the info!!
@joshmiller7777
3 жыл бұрын
As a fellow British person, I'm glad you mentioned that haha!
@LewisSkinner
3 жыл бұрын
I came here to say this! 🤣
I first started to love the bowler after seeing it from cartoons and comics like Tin Tin. I even have a photo of my great great grand father Chief Yellowhammer, newly released as a prisoner of war in 1905 from the Modoc war, return to Oregon and he had a bowler clutched in his hand. So I got my first bowler in 7th grade a Bailey from the local haberdasher in Portland and wore it during more formal settings but I always noticed people wearing them in tough situations like heavy work in movies. I always wondered why in movies based in the West and early 20th century seen the bowler worn in all situations. So I started to wear the hat all the time but got disappointed that it started to lose its shape from rain. I currently work at the railroad and occasionally will wear my original worn out bowler at work in cooler weather because it's wool and I still like the idea of an all purpose hat like I grew up watching. I do have a more nicer one which I wear in more cleaner conditions. It's still my favorite hat to pair with my wool top coat in the winter along with my top hats.
There is nothing like learning history. This was trove of knowledge that opens one mind and see the bowler hat from a different angle. Im getting one ! Maybe in brown. Thank you !
The bowler was actually the original hat of the Cowboy. As cattlemen moved westward, the most common hat seen was the bowler.
@georgelush1998
3 жыл бұрын
Yes! A little known fact. Most folks think it was the iconic 10-gallon hat of the 1950’s TV Westerns. HBO’s TV series “Deadwood” got it right. The characters were not immaculately groomed and dressed like the Cartwrights.
@dararohan1209
3 жыл бұрын
@@georgelush1998 They did eventually switch to more wide brimmed hats. Especially further south.
@worm_vaquero
9 ай бұрын
The hat that won the west
It’s ironic how the most versatile accessories are the underrated ones. Because stiff hats are mostly if not all the most formal, but the Bowler hat was also common amongst the middle class but also in the aristocracy.
@Jo_Wardy
Жыл бұрын
Even Cowboys preferred the Bowler/Derby look up butch Cassidy gang
Bowler Hat is one of my favourite out of other hats
@reneegiese6315
3 жыл бұрын
I can easily understand that
Thank you Preston, and all involved at Gentlemen’s Gazette for an informative episode on one of my favorite hat styles. I have several in my collection - some vintage others custom made. I appreciate seeing other folks enjoying and wearing and Derby/Bowler hat. ~Jed 🤠
Excellent material, as always!
Thanks to you guys I finally made a decision and bought a bowler hat ( genuine vintage one ), it's great it fits very well, good condition, looks great and obviously its real vintage. So thank you very much Gentelman's Gazette and keep up the good work. PS. Please just one small video about frock coats please.
I was always curious about the bowler. Great video!
I have a Bowler from Diefenthal in Colone, Germany, and I love it.
I was looking forward for a derby guide, thank you!
Greetings from Australia. I have only recently joined your channel but I find your channel to be a joy to watch and I learn something with every video. One day (post COVID) my wife and I will travel to the US and I hope to meet some of the people who to contribute to each video; and perhaps get some personal advice on buying a suit. WELL DONE !!
A very interesting video-although I was flabbergasted that it wasn’t until the 14:21 mark that A Clockwork Orange was given its due as a sartorial statement!
Preston looking like the riddler more than ever in this video
Wonderful and wonderful history as well! Bravo!
What's not to love about bowler hats? They look great with my stroller, of which I usually pair with light-grey twill or cashmere-striped trousers. The bowler contrasts nicer with the cashmere-stripes in my opinion, but still looks pretty smart with the solid grey trousers nonetheless. Having a bowler is a great investment for your wardrobe since it's practical (can be worn for formal occasions, with everyday business attire and maybe even certain types of smart casual outfits if you're daring) and you'll look sharp too. It's a shame men stopped wearing hats, but on the other hand, you'll probably get lots of compliments if you do wear a more traditional hat style. A bowler will definitely bring many compliments even if you're not dressing it up as much as it could. Thanks for the informative video, your content is always a joy to watch. It makes me happy to see that traditional menswear will continue to live on, especially since my generation keeps getting more casual and can't wear suits, let alone a dress shirt correctly. Edit: Fixed Grammar
@sonnycorleone3251
Жыл бұрын
Detachable collar boi, I agree. Men are way too casual these days. I still wear a fedora but only with a leather jacket, with no suit in the fall weather, as an Indiana Jones kind of look. Sometimes I wear the brim up too.
@TheRefinedGentleman
Жыл бұрын
@@sonnycorleone3251 Nice, that sounds classic. A fedora or a bowler are my goto everyday hats. I agree with you about how casual it's gotten the last few years. My peers and colleagues all seem to gravitate to jeans, track pants or hoodies. Sport coats count as "formal" according to them lol
@sonnycorleone3251
Жыл бұрын
@@TheRefinedGentleman Yes, Even some guests at weddings and funerals I see guys toooo casually dressed. I think dressed down Fridays brought everything down to eventually all week casual basically. Too bad. All the best to you!
@TheRefinedGentleman
Жыл бұрын
@@sonnycorleone3251 Yeah pretty much, seems like most things mainstream these days are "comfy." Regarding funerals, if it's too casual it's plain disrespectful to the deceased. Thank you, may your sartorial journey be fulfilling!
what a perfect time, just start to search fit bowler hat and gentlemen's gazette deliver great knowledge
Feels good here. This is a good channel. 🙂
Neat! A few years ago I bought a locke bowler from the 50s that fit me at a fair for 25€, I just recently got it brushed up and it looks nice!
@gentlemansgazette
3 жыл бұрын
Harder hats like the bowler or top hat are much harder to fit because the same size can have many different shape. That's when the confirmateur comes into play. It can determine your headshape and help the hatter get the fit right.
I love bowlers and have wanted one for years. I've had no luck with vintage, since I have an unusual head shape, although I recently read you can steam then to shape. Fortunately I have found a local hatter who is actually within walking distance to my house. His primary market is Black Hat Orthodox Jews, but he also sells 2 levels of quality bowlers. This is a large market in my area, with 4 Orthodox Synagogs also in walking distance. I think a bowler is in my future very soon!
You rocked that look, Preston. Most dapper.
Great video! You should consider doing a video/style review of the Jeeves and Wooster television programme!
I wear one of these every day.
@stefanox8908
3 жыл бұрын
And i don't even own one *Sad hatless noises*
Great job Preston.
With Bowler hat comes great responsibility, never forget!
The bowler is objectively the most cool hat in existence!
We mustn't forget Cousin Itt. I always wear a Christys' London black bowler. I wear it with absolute confidence and I always get compliments. It works great with formal wear; but I also wear it to rock concerts and gigs (just jeans and black shirt). The bowler is a very "cool" hat.
Great video and very informative. Just purchased a vintage bowler on ebay. It was made in England for Brooke's Brothers, N.Y.C circa 1930's. Will post picture when it arrives. Plan to wear it at grand daughters wedding. Keep up the good work.
I own a vintage bowler hat from c. 90-100 years ago. I like it, but I have so few opportunities to wear it with my current wardrobe… it’s in such good shape, though, and fits me too well to just get rid of. But if anybody’s interested in a ventilated(!) summer bowler from the 1920s or ’30s…
I love this channel. I love to learn about new subjects. So, finding a subject that I am completely ignorant about is a rare and pleasant treat! =D
You say bowler hats aren't crushable but I own an original from the 1930s that was sold as "The Pliable" and that one actually is
Love bowler hats. Looking at purchasing one actually. 😊
I have my Lock & Co bowler I wear in lodge, love it!
I found my self an antique bowler hat In impeccable condition. For 50 dollars on Facebook including the original box . But this is not my first bowler I have 4 others. It is written SUPER QUALITY. I am so happy and it fits me so well
My dad gave me his vintage bowler hat years ago - it’s nice to get some ideas of how to wear it outside of Halloween costumes!
Great video!
I have a Lock & Co extra stiff Coke hat. Every time I wear it I’m well dressed and I get far more comments on my hat than my suit and tie. A side note regarding construction I learned when my hat was fitted by Lock & Co, at least my hat (I don’t know about the normal Coke hats) is made with a shellack shell on the inside and the felt outer and silk liner are covering that. Also, my hat has a very unique way of adjusting the hatband. It’s a piece of leather about 1.5 inches tall with a string woven through the upper part. You pull the ends of the string together and tie a bow in it to make the hat fit more snug, or slightly higher on your head.
Perfect accoutrement for strolling down Summit Avenue!
Always wanted a bowler, thank you!
Dude, you look good in that Hat style! Great content!
@20thcenturyboy85
3 жыл бұрын
Thinking that you could even wear it super casual every day by wearing a vest & jeans.
It's not easy to live as vintage(1890-1920) enthusiast in South Korea. I'm so grateful that I'm always learning from watching this channel's videos.
I've got the Christy's woolfelt bowlerhat. I couldn't the furfelt one for a reasonable. However the woolfelt Christy bowler hat is a very good quality hat stil. It has a nice leather band inside, satin interior. And most imporyantly it has the typical classic bowler hat shape! :)
At long last you've made up your promise that you have promised us a long time ago
Appreciate this
I guess like anything it's up to you if you look good in a bowler hat or not! Like other hats they come in different shape and sizes. Sammy Davis Jr. looked good in a bowler hat as a gangster in "Robin and the seven hoods." And I saw the old African american boxer Jack Johnson look good in his too. Have to get the right size for your head though or it will look silly! I wear and like the fedora hat better myself. But usually wear it only in Fall weather with a jacket and no suit underneath, as an Indiana Jones kind of look. I wear the fedora with the brim up sometimes too. Great channel for the well-dressed man.
I like bowler hats with a smaller crown and the Brim dipped down at the front and worn on a slight angle
Looking good, Preston. 👌
Great video
My bowler is my favorite hat to wear! Thanks for finally making a Bowler video!
I have always loved the bowler; it may be my favorite hat. But, I have never gathered the confidence to wear for fear of it looking to costume-like.
@guylewis7418
3 жыл бұрын
I bet you could pull it off if you are wearing a suit. It would look great with a suit, a scarf, and an overcoat.
@TheRefinedGentleman
7 ай бұрын
I really get that. I don't like wearing a bowler as much as I used to due to the unwanted attention it brings. I've had people shout "cool hat" from cars driving by, or people in the street yell "time-traveller!" I've had similar stuff happen with a boater and homburg too. On the other hand, a bowler hat with a Chesterfield coat and umbrella looks great.
Here in Germany, hats with feathers are also not so common, but you can see feathers at traditional huntsmans hats or at ,native dress( Trachten) hats.
Fascinating history. It certainly wasn't a design made for sun shading, but in cooler outdoor environs it would be better than a bare noggin.
Henry The Hatter in Detroit sells good quality fur-felt bowlers.
Bowler hats and preston? Two of my favourite things
I don’t know that I’ve ever encountered someone wearing one of these. But if I ever do, I am DEFINITELY complimenting him on his Billycock.
My favorite hat that isn't a flat cap is the coachman. I know that's an odd one, but it would be great could touch on that style.
Top hats next please!
@steamgent4592
3 жыл бұрын
Definitely and the real ones not the felt ones🤣🤣🤣😂😂😂😂😂
@isaiahwilliams7828
3 жыл бұрын
They have an interesting history for sure, they used to be the go to "casual" or day hat for the urban middle class and upper classes, and initially came in many varieties. Apparently it is consideredto be the first "modern" hat. Upper society men would wear two sided cocked hats for the most formal evening events but eventually they faded out of existence outside of costume and uniforms.
@heinzguderianbutmoreyounge9659
3 жыл бұрын
@@isaiahwilliams7828 yes,when they go to country or having an informal events in city they whipped the top hat,the most formal are cocked hats,sometimes with feather and bows or tricolore
Photos of late-19th century railways generally show 'workers' wearing flat caps, but inspectors and 'middle managers' wore bowlers as a sign of their status. Top hats were worn by station masters of the biggest railway stations and the most senior managers, though there were many exceptions in working locations, where a variety of 'travelling hats' are often seen.
the best part of this video was about hat making. You should do a video about this,
I wear my bowler hat to work, pairing it with no jacket, just a cancas cotton work vest.
You guys look awesome.
My son once made me attend to our chickens in a Bowler or "Melone" as we call it in Austria, simply because it looks nice.
LOL I love the bowler and honestly the first time I wore one was for my Alex Delarge costume for Halloween one year. After that it sat in a closet at parents house for almost 30yrs. Its a cheap hat but a genuine bowler. I bought it from a second hand store in the DFW area. It cleans up well enough for costumes but I would never pair it with an overcoat, which is the way I prefer to wear mine now. Usually pair it with my Crombie some nice Sta-Prest trousers and a nice pair of brogues.
I think tilting it at an angle/to a side it's called a specific tilt? The "Irish Tilt" perhaps?
The bowler is also THE standard hat of the Viennese city coachmen ("Fiaker"). Best regards from Vienna, Austria!
Finally,thank you gg team,bowler for me has always an banker and bussinessman vibes,im waiting for a topper video,i love my bowler Its great for an bussiness outfit and always match stroller,good for you gg another excellent video!
@MrBlair-ft2li
3 жыл бұрын
I’m torn between my bowlers and my Homburgs. I have brown and black in both. I also have a brown and a grey Fedora so depends on where I’m going and how I’m feeling at the moment 😀
@carltrotter7622
3 жыл бұрын
And so, we meet again. Hello!
@heinzguderianbutmoreyounge9659
3 жыл бұрын
@@carltrotter7622 hello my dear chap,we are really striking the wrong fellows on internet huh about formal wear
@carltrotter7622
3 жыл бұрын
@@heinzguderianbutmoreyounge9659 I've seen you on a lot of top hat videos. Out of interest, do you own one or, better yet, do you own a full white tie or morning ensemble? 😲
@heinzguderianbutmoreyounge9659
3 жыл бұрын
@@carltrotter7622 sadly not,but we follow each other on ig
Personally I prefer fedoras or a broadbrim hat (if I need to wear a hat) but still a rather interesting video because I finally found out what my grandfather meant by Billycock.
Hey I have a question regarding your pocket squares from the Fort Belvedere Shop. I can get a linen pocket square without any initials for the same price but have the choice left between the irish linen one and the italian linen.. any thoughs about the differences or which situation calls for which type of linen?
I used to wear a wool felt bowler that my father bought for my 21st birthday. Sadly though, it fell victim to a hot car and now it doesn't fit right. I'm currently trying to figure out how to restore it to its original shape. This was a great video as always, gentlemen!
@herberthill9984
2 жыл бұрын
good luck buddy 👍
@TheRefinedGentleman
Жыл бұрын
Steam will usually do the trick. The idea is to expose the hat to a steam source for long enough so the hat softens and becomes pliable. Let the hat sit for a few minutes so the steam dries. It should go back to its original shape. If not, you might need to resteam and adjust the shape manually. Alternatively, a hatter can reshape and reblock the hat if necessary
For the love of the bowler hat - In memory of Prince Philip wearing a bowler hat and a trench coat. Pure class! 👍
I bought a Scala Furlong for short money at a store, still wool and has a feather but obviously on the cheaper side than purchasing the $620 real one from Lock & Co.
Will you all make a video or website post about Savile Row. I think that would be very interesting and perfectly aligned with men’s formal wear/this channel. You could discuss history, various big named tailors, how much the average bespoke suit costs, what to expect, etc. I’m an avid fan, and would love to see this idea come to fruition! Thanks!
Just a small correction: Winston Churchill didn’t wear bowlers with his morning suit (at least not in that picture): he wore the similar-looking “Cambridge”, the exact description of which can be found on the site of Lock Hatters, which is also its creator :)
Stetson makes a very nice Fur Felt and wool Derby
About the retailers, what about 'Stetson', is that a good one?
I've always wanted a bowler hat, ever since I was very young. I still want it, but where do I buy one of good quality today?
Riders of show jumpers, Dressage horses and Three Day Eventers sometimes wear reinforced Bowler hats while in riding gear.
I only saw a Bowler hat and its box once at a vintage flea market, I regret not picking it up to see what size it was or which company made it.
The Kangol Wool Bombin shown at 15:52 is the only hat that looks good on me. I have four... black, grey, navy and the lavender shown, but I only wear that last one in the spring. I'm thinking of recreating it in fur felt.
Can you make video about bicorne or top hat?
I thought Luton, Bedfordshire was the hat centre of the world? I'll be on the lookout for a vintage Lock bowler though.
14:40 Tip: If you really wan't a bowler hay but only can get a cheap one,you can use a kettle to modify the hay to you choice with bare hands,just be gentle with the hat and be careful with the steam
Bravo!
Great video! What I would be interested to know - and I am not sure whether it was covered by you in the earlier hat videos - is the contrasting (or not) hatband. Is it a sign of informality? Should it ideally contrast (or complement) accessories such as gloves and scarves?
@themoderndandy713
3 жыл бұрын
1. Black contrasting hatbands are more formal than matching hatbands, but any other type of contrasting hatband is less formal. 2. Yes. If it's black, it should be paired with black shoes to compliment the formality.
@hannamakela6989
3 жыл бұрын
@@themoderndandy713 Thank you! :) I was also thinking of the business suit combo with an overcoat, scarf, and hat in cool weather: For example, if the gloves and scarf are both grey or blue, then should the (homburg, fedora, etc.) hat (or the band thereof) also be close to those colors. In this imaginary scenario, the coat would be dark, for example navy blue or charcoal grey. And by "should" I of course mean classic recommendations, not any "laws". ;)
I know there was a video made showing hat etiquette with regard to when where to don your hat... we need a video that demonstrates how to interact with people while wearing a hat. eg tipping, carrying etc
Finally. It is here, I can die peacefully now.
Sorry for ignorance, but I'm Italian and some terminology is difficult for me, so, "fur felt" is the lapin?? In Italian there isn't a word for this particular felt like "feltro di lana" for wool felt, GRAZIE!!!! PS: your video are always useful!!!
Can u please do a video on what to wear to prom?
I only wear knit hats, specifically Pittsburgh Penguins logo-ed, yet I shall enjoy the information from this video.
I've been trying to find a decent new grey bowler with black band, and your recommendations from your site only carry all black. Do you have any recommendations on where to look for something like this? I really appreciate the info.
@TheRefinedGentleman
7 ай бұрын
An old English book of etiquette I found suggested wearing a grey bowler with a stroller/black lounge suit as an alternative to black. Historically, grey hats would've been worn in the summer before straw hats were really a thing. Imo, a grey hat can really soften the look of an overall dark ensemble, or even look nice as a spring hat right before the transition into straw hats. Best to stick with a black bowler if you're wearing something more formal. You can find them vintage. For brand new, to my knowledge, Ascot Top Hats out of the UK sells a "grey" (looks more like grey-brown from the photos) Christy's bowler, but it's only available in wool felt rather than fur felt.
You guys should link the websites you are talking about in the description.
Does anyone know about these hats? Agnoulita Coke | Custom Handmade Rabbit Fur Felt Bowler Hat.. wondering if this would be any good?
I'm looking for one to wear in the wind, instead of a cowboy hat here in west Texas.
I have 3: a Grey, a black, and a tan
Does it work to wear a black bowler hat with a grey suit?