Commodore 64 Rev.A 326298 hardware mods - fixing Commodore's mistakes
Ғылым және технология
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The original but not the best. The first C64 boards that Commodore made suffer from a number of issues - cooking voltage regulators, no s-video, poor composite, and some compatibility issues.
In this video we will remedy all those and do it without any irreversible changes, just 4 resistors and a few bits of wire is all that's required.
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🔗
Reset circuit fix: www.lemon64.com/forum/viewtop...
C64 schematics: www.zimmers.net/anonftp/pub/cb...
🔗
🎞
0:00 Intro
1:54 Voltage regulator fix
4:47 Composite video fix
8:06 S-video luma mod
10:28 S-video chroma mod
13:15 Reset fix
16:18 Outro
🎞
Thanks for watching!
#commodore64 #326298 #mods
Пікірлер: 103
Fun fact, the earliest silver label 326298 were actually Rev C and Rev B while Rev A took over towards the end of the silver label run and the rest of the 326298 production.
Nice!!!, mods that are relatively easy to do and are reversible!
Wow... I can't believe how much better that looked after. Great job!
This channel literally covers everything
I have to agree with replacing the audio in with the chroma out signal. The audio in on the C64 was almost never used for anything and I don't even know how useful it is really is. The best it could do would be to mix incoming audio with SID tunes so filters and volume get applied. It is possible a special cartridge/user port add-on may have used it, but you still wouldn't need it since you could mix that manually with the audio out yourself. In most cases, I've heard it just adds noise sitting there unused anyway.
@jandjrandr
4 ай бұрын
Also, you may want to think about grounding the audio in line. It has been reported to improve audio for real SID chips, but obviously would have no effect on the ARMSID you have installed there.
@TheRetroChannel
4 ай бұрын
@jandjrandr I've experimented with grounding the audio in (on a real sid), and while it does make a difference, I want to do further analysis before I draw a final conclusion
This is some great information. I have been sitting on quite a few 5-pin machines that were originally from our local school district and this seems a great way to keep them as close to original as possible but improve the video out.
Excellent video. When I checked the resistors on my board I did notice that Commodore used higher rated resistors in several locations. Thank you for sharing this.
I just got a 326298 C64 that needs these mods. Thanks for sharing your videos.
@TheRetroChannel
Жыл бұрын
Thanks for the super thanks Ben, I really appreciate it
I'll be damned. As someone who regularly modded 326298 boards in all these same ways, the reset mod shown here is actually slightly easier and cleaner version of the one I did a few years back on my channel. Another easy mod worth looking into is replacing the SID filter capacitors as well, because the factory caps are incorrect (I believe they came with 2200pf from memory? been a few years) and should be replaced with 470pF ceramics so that the SID's filters sound the same as they do on the later boards with 6581 SID chips. Great work; I've always been a big fan of these simple mods to make use of these otherwise overlooked '82 326298 boards...
@TheRetroChannel
Жыл бұрын
Thanks. I didn't know about the SID filter error, I don't remember it sounding any different or if it did I probably put that down to the armsid. I'll do some more tests with a real sid and the filter caps
@michaelcarey
Жыл бұрын
There was a similar error made with the SID filter circuit in the SX-64 machines with the wrong value caps installed.
Excellent source for anyone that wants to do these mods! Thanks! My original C64 was an early model 5-pin video. We also later got a 1701 monitor. Back then they sold a cable that could be used with the 5-pin models and separated inputs on the back of the 1701/1702. It was a pretty well known hack and was published by Jim Butterfield in an issue of COMPUTE! or COMPUTE!'s Gazette in 1984. You basically used Luma for Luma and used the Composite for Chroma. It does work but the levels are a little off so the colors are a bit brighter. It did give you a much better picture then the standard Composite but not as good as the newer 8-pin models. Anyway, your method here is much better. Keep up the good work.
@TheRetroChannel
Жыл бұрын
I just tried using the composite for chroma and yeah, it works but it's not great. Kind of a shame as I can think of a few cases where using composite in place of chroma would be useful.
@RacerX-
Жыл бұрын
@@TheRetroChannel For sure not as good as true separated. But back in the 80s it was still much better then composite and gave a sharper picture. That is on an unmodded C64 though.
That’s really clever. Good job, and excellent result!
Great video, more like the absolutely necessary guide to keep your micro alive for the years to come! thanks mate!
Great summary of upgrade mods for this board... I will do the same... as it has been neglected for the reasons you mentioned on the video!
Mark, just wanted to say THANKS for this information. I've replaced the resistor at R10 in three C64s and the output looks so much better. Keep up the great videos!
You big babies. When I was a kid this was new and awesome at a cost. Nobody back then expected anything different than crappy RF. That was normal.
@maxw7221
2 ай бұрын
When we were kids it looked great because there wasn't anything else to compare it to. I mean, it looked better than Apple graphics! lol
Excellent video! Great info
You outdid yourself today,. Thank you very much indeed.
That looks great for a RevA. I keep my Rev As packed up and not used. Not because I want to preserve them, it's because the look terrible ;) One of my best video output machines is a 425 board that I PAL modded.
@TheRetroChannel
Жыл бұрын
Maybe it's time to bring that rev A out of storage
Excellent work. I'm so used to playing on NTSC machines when I play on PAL the games seem so slow.
Excellent mods. I followed but with a further change. In RF can, ran the composite to the RF out jack. Then, dropped the composite from 5pin din rather than audio in.
@WY.C64-Guy
Ай бұрын
I wonder what could happen to the SID if one were to forget which cable went with which machine... plugging a monitor's chroma in to the SID audio in. In theory, nothing...? At least your mod to go to the RF port would prevent that, but then requires a separate cable.
Cool video. 👍👏
Thanks! I've got a machine that has this reset issue and I'm going to at least do the reset mod on it!
Nice video.
@TheRetroChannel Thanks for the great insights. You were talking about the NTSC model. I have the same assy, but the PAL model. Any hints on that?
@TheRetroChannel
5 ай бұрын
The same may apply to the PAL model. The PAL 326298 boards are very rare and I'm yet to come across one
@THEPHINTAGECOLLECTOR
5 ай бұрын
@TheRetroChannel I see, I'll try to see what I can do with mine.
Isn't there a SID fix as well? Like a 470pf Cap to swap out the improper one? -Mark.
@TheRetroChannel
7 ай бұрын
Yeah aphexteknol also mentioned it in the comments here. I have not tried it out yet
Nice video bud. I'm currently working on a shortboard. :) strange fault, but I'll get it. You are pretty smart with your mods. I always enjoy your videos
@TheRetroChannel
Жыл бұрын
Thanks mate. What's happening with the shortboard?
@donaldblakley6796
Жыл бұрын
It has black screen, but with fastload, it boots to basic. Diag with harness runs perfectly for 10+ times. A cartridge works, sometimes freezing with random characters. I can load a disk no problems. I changed the kernal/basic rom chip, no change. Soldering is good. So I changed ram tonight, just because I had it. No change. I really thought it was a flaky kernal basic rom::( I'm thinking possibly the character rom, but I don't know. I'm not sure how these short boards work. 250469. I'm stumped
@TheRetroChannel
Жыл бұрын
@@donaldblakley6796 Interesting, yeah my money would have been on the kernal/basic ROM. I'm thinking either CPU or PLA, I'd go CPU first as it's easier to get out and replace, you can even use a longboard 6510. And I'm yet to come across a bad shortboard PLA
@donaldblakley6796
Жыл бұрын
Cpu is good, swapped with my other short board. I have another kernal basic rom coming next week. I'm still convinced it's that. Super pla can go bad?
@donaldblakley6796
Жыл бұрын
Thanks
Nice, try out the Skate or die intro at NTSC speed :D
I have this exact board and problem. Amazing that you are working on exactly the same thing at the same time. Which Atari video cable did you use? I don't see any designed for chroma/luma.
@TheRetroChannel
Жыл бұрын
I built my own cable a long time ago when I got the Atari. You can see the pinout at 10:50
@levimaaia
Жыл бұрын
@@TheRetroChannel cool. On the other end of the Atari video cable, are the separate chroma and luma signals coming out of one of the RCA connectors or the actual S-video plug?
@TheRetroChannel
Жыл бұрын
You would want to wire the luma and chroma to an svideo plug, unless you are using it with a Commodore monitor that has the 2 RCAs for luma and chroma
@levimaaia
Жыл бұрын
@@TheRetroChannel makes sense. I ordered an Atari video cable but when you mentioned that you made yours I pulled apart my existing composite, L/R audio and rewired it for Chroma, Luma and mono audio. What a difference! Amazing. Thank you for this tutorial!
Interesting video. I have a C128 DCR and the video output on those are horrible!. Was wondering if getting a replacement modulator would solve the issue. Can't find much information about the video modulation on this specific model though.
@TheRetroChannel
Жыл бұрын
Funny you should mention the DCR, I just posted a little thread on twitter about putting an RF replacement in one of those twitter.com/TheRetroChanneI/status/1651914147691630597?t=4jch5gvuZS8V7GuwUbrygg&s=19
@anotheruser9876
Жыл бұрын
@@TheRetroChannel Now all I need is a way to fix my R/W head of the internal drive. It did not survive a intercontinental move (forgot to put the cardboard head protector in). One side is still attached, the other is cracked and makes for a tilted head.
@TheRetroChannel
Жыл бұрын
@@anotheruser9876 Damn, that sounds like it's going to be a tricky one to fix. I don't know what to suggest apart from good luck
Hi, thnx for all videos. One question - C64C needed this mods?
@TheRetroChannel
Жыл бұрын
No, it only applies to the older 326298 boards
@BellaLugoshi
Жыл бұрын
@@TheRetroChannel it's just that I also have a grid and blurring on the c64c through the composite output. so I'm thinking how to solve the problem.
@TheUtuber999
10 ай бұрын
@@BellaLugoshi On my 64C I'm using separate (luma/chroma) to an S-Video-to-HDMI converter box and the display is nice - definitely a step up in quality from composite.
@BellaLugoshi
10 ай бұрын
@@TheUtuber999 thnx
@TheUtuber999
10 ай бұрын
@@BellaLugoshi I see you're a Bauhaus fan. 💪
When you say the CHROMA signal is "too hot", what was its voltage level? I'm concerned that attenuating it will make it fare not-too-well with a 1701 / 1702 (where the manual specs 1Vpp for the CHROMA signal).
@TheRetroChannel
7 ай бұрын
I don't remember but 300mV will still work just fine with Commodore monitors that expect 1V. Worst case scenario is you will need to turn the colour control up slightly
@thorpejsf
6 ай бұрын
@@TheRetroChannel I finally got around to poking at this a bit more today. With a white border, on an unmodified board, the LUMA signal clocks in at ~3.2Vp-p right after its emitter follower (i.e. before passing through R9), and the CHROMA, right off the emitter follower, is at about 3.1Vp-p. Obviously that would be "too hot" without a series resistor to create the voltage divider like the LUMA has. Anyway, what's a little puzzling is that, with a 75ohm load on the display, that the output would be nearly 2Vp-p ... With he stock value in R9, it should be ~1.6Vp-p, which is still high but easier to live with. Even with the 5% resistor tolerance, it should be < 1.7Vp-p. I wouldn't expect these resistors to drift *down* over time!
Actually, nice. My C64 is this model, the old one without the chroma pin. I have 1541 Ultimate, and I don't know if that's supposed to reset the machine or not. It seems to be working that I know, but maybe something broken and I just assumed it was C64 random?
Hey dumb question, htf does an ntsc version work with 50hz power?!
@TheRetroChannel
8 ай бұрын
The only thing in the 64 that relies on the mains frequency is the time of day clocks in the CIA's, and only a handful of programs use these clocks anyway. All other frequencies (CPU clock, video output) are derived from the crystal oscillator inside the 64
@googlehomemini2059
8 ай бұрын
@@TheRetroChannel perfect, that’s amazing, I’d never realised that it didn’t rely on external timing from power, so I’ve always avoided!? Do you hang out on discord with the VCF crowd like Bil Herd and Johan Grip and all of those guys? If you don’t, you really should…! :)
Commodore made a lot of shortcuts to the point they got the Monitor OEM to add a fix for the crappy C64 video out. I find my silver label rev A to be dark, limited jail bars, but the colours are trash. I'm going to look at this resistor. PAL games on a NTSC machine are HARD, they speed up.
11:41 Just to make sure, "that cap" is C71, right?
@TheRetroChannel
Ай бұрын
C79
Why did Commodore use resistors that put the video output voltage levels so far out of spec? Has anyone asked Bil Herd? While you're at it, ask why it's "Bil" instead of "Bill."
Does the C64 support RGB via Scart?
@TheRetroChannel
Жыл бұрын
I wish. The best you can get out of the VIC-II is s-video
@Adam-rt7lp
Жыл бұрын
@@TheRetroChannel So what is the best quality out of a C64 or C64C?
@TheRetroChannel
Жыл бұрын
There's no easy answer as it can vary even with the same board revision. The C64C 250469 shortboard is probably the safer bet for getting good video quality
After making this modification, I ran the diagnostics cart and it came back with a bad SID and a bad Control Port. But it played all of the test sounds correctly (as far as I can tell) and the control ports seems to be working fine. Can anyone else replicate this? Could the removal of C12 could be the culprit?
@levimaaia
Жыл бұрын
I think I just answered my own question. Page 1-6 of the C64 DIAGNOSTIC INSTRUCTION AND TROUBLESHOOTING MANUAL says On some of the older 5-pin video output pc's, the control port will Display 'bad" and indicate a defective 6581 SID IC, I18, each time the Control port test runs. This is due to different value capacitors, PCB Locations C48 and C93, at pins 23 and 24 of U18, which cause the digital output to fall outside of the specified range. These capacitors values should be 1800 pF. This situation will not cause any problems with paddle operation and these capacitors need not be changed if a different value cap was used at the time of manufacture.
@TheRetroChannel
Жыл бұрын
Interesting, I didn't know about that one. Pretty sure I've run the diagnostic on it in the past and everything was ok, maybe my board already has the correct value caps
@levimaaia
Жыл бұрын
@@TheRetroChannel it does say that they say that this is true for only "some of the older 5-pin" boards. So I suppose it is possible that yours is one of these boards for which this doesn't apply. Oh, Commodore!
Haaa!! In the future will unmodified Rev.A 326298's be going for a premium price????
Great vid. But. .. stop hogging all the 1084 monitors...😂
he says chroma luma or svideo bro they are the same 😆
Right now you can have Raspberry Pico for 5$ which can emulate every 8Bit home computer, also with VGA and stereo audio output. No need for original old hardware anymore.
@TheRetroChannel
Жыл бұрын
Oh wow really? Well I guess I'll pack up all this crap and take it to the dump.
@TheUtuber999
10 ай бұрын
What's the video / audio latency penalty?
It is a Revision 1, YES there where mistakes, but COMMODORE Fixed them in Rev 2, these mods are variations of Publicly available fixes, I remember doing these Repairs & updates as Commodore Dealer, nice to see these updates still being installed in older boards, but "Commodore F**Ks Up", is not a discovery you made ...