This guy is AMAZING I rebuilt my FIRST Coleman a 321C watching this. Got a second 321only a “b” and then a 621. Thank you King Coleman!🎉🎉🎉🎉

Thank you. I love your videos, they've helped me alot.

Thank you, Thank you! Without your help I would have never gotten my 621A going again.

Thanks William, for this video. I have a 321 and 222 currently in good shape but will eventually need maintenance. I've saved your video for future reference!

Great video, I have a few 321 lanterns one is in mint condition but not picking up any fuel only air comes out. This helps me out a lot. I also have a '76 621A that works but needs a globe. All made in Toronto.

thanks for making this video Will, dumpster found a 321B a few days ago, this video help me a lot for disassembly.

Just watched your video and loved it. Coleman should give you a job and paycheck for keeping all these old lanterns going and making them more famous than they are. I love all this old stuff that was made to last and you can still keep it running for years when most stuff now is made to come apart and you have to buy another one. Great job and keep on posting i will keep watching.

Just acquired a 621A however it arrived with a broken eccentric block and after watching your video it seems the eccentric block is “captive” within its valve body. To get the eccentric block out you drill some of the valve body out (behind the eccentric block) and then your able to pull the eccentric block out?

@king.coleman

Жыл бұрын

No, you don't have to drill anything. They won't come out through the top of the valve, but when you remove the fuel and air tube, they will fall out through the valve's bottom.

I've watched this video many times and it's been a great reference for me. So I thank you for that. I did however come across an oddity in the 621 timeline today. I have a blue 621A I just picked up today. Collar says 621A and fount is stamped 2/75 making it a very early 621A. However it has the same valve as shown at the end in the image from Roland for the 621C. I confirmed with the woman I got this from that it has been sitting in her basement since her husband died in the early 80's and he hadn't used it for a few years before that. This would mean it couldn't have been rebuilt with newer parts from a 621C. I have to assume Coleman may have been trying out different versions of the valves. Either that or MAYBE it is a 621C but since it is a blue one Coleman may have cobbled it together with a mix of old and new parts (depending on what they had sitting around). Whatever the reason I can say that this type of valve uses an 009 o-ring on the valve stem and an 007 at the top of the air/fuel tube since that isn't shown in the image.

@king.coleman

Жыл бұрын

Something doesn't add up. There definitely weren't any "C" valves around in 1975, but because of the bump-out on the 621 and 621A collar, none of the later (B, C, or D) valves will work without also swapping the collar for a later style. If you try to put a B, C, or D valve on a 621 or 621A the valve stem won't project far enough for the knob to fit on.

@Enjoymentboy

Жыл бұрын

@@king.coleman I agree that things are off a bit. The fount is 100% stamped with 2/75 and the collar has the bump out and is marked 621A (black print on aluminium ). I gave it a full tear-down and cleaning and have it back together. Burn in tomorrow. I've worked with all the other easy-lite valves and this was the first one like this I've handled and it is exactly like the one shown in the image from Roland. The valve was really in there tight and had what looked like the original sealant on it. Had to lightly heat with a torch to get it to release. I have to suspect at this point it was likely made MUCH later than the stamped date and maybe released as some special model. Not sure but it's mine and I like it. :)

@king.coleman

Жыл бұрын

@@Enjoymentboy If the stem is long enough to work with a 621/621A collar, then it simply cannot be a 621C valve and is not the same as the 621C valve pictured. The C valve has a shorter stem. I suppose it's possible that in 1982 or shortly after Toronto made a 621/621A replacement valve based on the C design, but it doesn't seem likely. I've got a 621 that I bought from the original owner who had received a replacement valve assembly from Coleman's parts centre in Sydney, BC. He never installed the new part and when I got it, it was still in the shipping box with paperwork from 1991. The replacement valve was a 621A valve and was listed on the paperwork as the replacement part for 621 and 621A.

@king.coleman

Жыл бұрын

@@Enjoymentboy Is the valve body brass or aluminum? I don't know if the C pick-up will thread into an A valve body, but if that's possible, then I wonder if the valve was bad and a repair centre replaced the eccentric block and pick-up with those of a C valve. If the valve body is brass, that seems the most likely answer...assuming it's even possible. If the valve body is aluminum, I have no idea. I don't think anyone's ever run across such an animal.

@Enjoymentboy

Жыл бұрын

@@king.coleman Valve body is aluminium and uses the same black retaining clip as the B valve. Other than the eccentric block and pick-up tube everything appears the same as with the B. Maybe you're onto something here and it was done as a repair where ONLY the eccentric and tube were replaced. Sadly the lady I got it from had no info. All she could tell me was that her husband last used it a couple of years before he died "in the early 80's". Now I'm not sure if this helps but the bump out on the collar does rub the back of the fuel knob just a tad. The hole in the collar is just barely flush with the back of the knob but I think the collar needs to be straightened a little. Either way it works and I like it a lot and if it's anything like my brown 621B my retinas won't be too happy once I light it up. This isn't one I plan on selling...it's a keeper...so as long as it works I'm good with it. But I do like a puzzle to solve now and then. :)

Great information, thanks! I've replaced O-rings (twice) in my 321B but still leaks in 'Off' position. Lantern floods when pressurized in this position making for some 'exciting' ignitions (who needs knuckle hair anyway?). Moving control knob a bit CCW leaks less, then (with flame ready) moving to Lite results in more normal ignitions and works great once it's going. Any ideas?

@king.coleman

3 жыл бұрын

Are you sure it's a 321B? That's the sort of problem the 321As have if you remove the pick-up tube and don't screw it back on properly. The B valve is much simpler, with a one-piece eccentric block and nothing fussy about the pick-up tube. The nub on the valve stem and the groove in the eccentric block should line-up in such a way that a leak shouldn't be possible. The only two ways I can think of it failing would be a bad or wrong-sized o-ring at the fuel seal point (should be #007) or some kind of wear or damage where the valve stem and eccentric block mate together.

@rbsseabrook

3 жыл бұрын

@@king.coleman - yes, it is absolutely a 321B and you got it: I first replaced the original #007 with a 7mm (which is slightly less than 9/32) and the valve leaked. I installed a 8mm (which is closer to 5/16") and now it shuts off fine, lights and runs great! I do have a brass spacer ring that (I think) goes between the knob and the spring clip on the valve stem, I don't see one in your exploded view.

@king.coleman

3 жыл бұрын

@@rbsseabrook Glad you got the o-ring sorted out. I've seen the occasional spacer on them, but can't say anything as to why some have them and most don't. I suspect it's got something to do with revisions made to the plastic knob.

pretty interesting. may I suggest you to invest in an external microphone or wearable one to ear you better :)

@king.coleman

Жыл бұрын

This was an early video. More recent videos were made using an external mic.

Hi. Your videos are my goto reference when it comes to rebuilding lanterns. This particular video help me to understand how to rebuild our 621A. Unfortunately it doesn’t shut off. I changed the o-rjng on the valve stem. I tried backing up/tightening up the f/a tube but still air leaks in off position. Does it means that i need to take off the shrader valve and replace it? Thanks!

@king.coleman

2 жыл бұрын

It's possible the schrader valve is leaking, especially if you removed it at some point. They're stuck in the top of the tube and usually have to be heated a bit to get them out. Too much heat will damage then, as will pulling them apart if you try to remove it without heat. The most common reason for this problem after a disassembly/reassembly is that the f/a tube has been screwed on too far. It can take some experimentation to get it right, which is why I don't recommend removing the f/a tube unless it's really necessary to do so. As long as the schrader valve works, there's really no reason to take the f/a tube off.

@laidytakayanagi3764

2 жыл бұрын

@@king.coleman this particular lantern arrived disassembled, when i tried assembling it the first time, i had broken the valve stem pin because i got the eccentric blocks lined up incorrectly. We got a donor lantern and finally we assembled it, light it up no problems no leaks but doesn’t shut off. Teared it apart a couple of times to try to get it to leak air at off. Last night i tried removing the shrader valve but your correct, its hard to remove it. Its stucked in there. I will have to try it again next time.

@king.coleman

2 жыл бұрын

@@laidytakayanagi3764 A little heat should loosen the valve so that you can easily pull it out, but heat will also damage the valve very easily. And, pull on it without enough heat, and the halves of the valves will separate with the bottom half still stuck in the f/a tube. Once they separate like that, they need to be replaced. The few times I've removed a schrader valve from a 321A/621A I just replaced the it to be on the safe side.

@laidytakayanagi3764

2 жыл бұрын

@@king.coleman yup, tried heating it but still cannot pull it out. I’m leaving it for now i fear might do more damage at this point. Will try again next time. Thanks again for all your inputs.

@laidytakayanagi3764

2 жыл бұрын

@@king.coleman finally got the shrader valve out! I used torch to heat it up and then quench in cold water, after 1round in the water - the shrader valve popped right off when i torched it the 2nd time!! Was surprised to see it popped out. Got new shrader valve from ocp, sanded the top part to remove the nub. Still needed to adjust the f/a tube to get the off to stop leaking air but finally, got it. Now our 621A is ready for camping duty this weekend. Thanks for all the help! Appreciate it!

Hello I recently acquired a Coleman 222 single mantle small Lantern and I pump it up and it doesn't seem to build any pressure in the tank your reply would greatly be appreciated

@cboo64

3 жыл бұрын

I'm following, mine too

@cmcanuck

2 жыл бұрын

Try a few drops of oil In the pump chamber. The leather gasket can dry out, preventing a seal.

@brianwilburn

9 ай бұрын

Could be a bad fuel cap gasket also.

Thanks, Bill...super thorough and informative! Do you recommend preemptively changing out the valve stem 009 o-rings to viton rings, or waiting for them to fail before doing so. Thanks!

@king.coleman

3 жыл бұрын

Most of the time the o-rings are fine. I usually roll the o-ring off the valve stem. If it comes off in once piece, I put it back on. If it has lost its elasticity and breaks, I know it's time for a new one.

@kellycooleyCPS

3 жыл бұрын

@@king.coleman makes sense - cheers!

@williamfayette8621

3 жыл бұрын

I tried looking and found made out of Viton made by Dorman o-ring assortment universal part number 80020 any help would be good I cant take a pic on here thanks

@king.coleman

3 жыл бұрын

@@williamfayette8621 Sorry, I don't know what your question is.

@goldenglowladore3842

2 жыл бұрын

@@king.coleman Are the O rings easy to find in stores? Can you recommend models that are easier to maintain? I'm a newbie.