If you add the time stamps for the questions to the description, us viewers can see them in the videos timeline. Then we can skip questions if they dont apply to us :)

@neonseacow

4 жыл бұрын

This

@fufumccuddlypoops5502

4 жыл бұрын

+1

@chaosengine4597

4 жыл бұрын

why skip? You can learn something from all of them ;)

@sebastiansjogren586

4 жыл бұрын

@@chaosengine4597 Sometimes you just dont have the time to watch all 30 minutes of it, but may be very interested in certain topics :)

@whelmking6497

4 жыл бұрын

Agree.

0:40 Q1 How do you balance muscle mass and climbing performance? 10:47 Q2 How can you help your partner with their climbing, and what can you learn from them? 19:45 Q3 What is your favourite crag drink? 22:28 Q4 How do you manage food on a day out climbing?

As a male teen climber recovering from an eating disorder, I think this was very helpful.

@fuzz6263

3 жыл бұрын

I'm in the same boat but female. Can second this, it certainly helped me as well.

@braydonsmedley5652

3 жыл бұрын

Put on the muscle!!!! You are amazing for taking on the battle. I'm rooting for you.

@braydonsmedley5652

3 жыл бұрын

@@fuzz6263 you got this girl💪

@qqqwww...

4 ай бұрын

Im rooting for you 💪

Damn.. that dog is more VIP than i've ever been.

@LatticeTraining

4 жыл бұрын

Exself Finn THE dog 😎

Great video! I’ve progressed a lot over the last two years just from climbing. Meaning I’ve built up some muscle just from climbing in the muscle groups I’ve used a lot. I feel muscle gain is good but you don’t need to be bulky, I’ve started to train the muscles groups that I’m noticing a lack of power in. Therefore preventing me to do a move or making it more difficult. I like seeing myself looking more fit but I’m nog actively working for that. Practical muscle mass increase. In most cases I’ve noticed finger strength is way more important. That and a good technique and just taking my time and not forcing it when I’m doing something new or pushing my comfort zone.

Love how they let the doggo sleep on the couch.

@cosmikali502

3 ай бұрын

lol they are on chairs next to him, so funny 😊

LOVE the focus on body image, not just a "you should be like this", especially when you can back it up by that your own body tells you what is right: need more strength on your regular moves -> muscles build... you need more nutrition -> cycle becomes irregular... You're already strong enough for the moves you do regularly -> muscles don't grow so much...

I lost 10kg from 78kg - 68kg and the difference is night and day, if I pick up a 10kg weight now and take it up the wall I will be at least a grade or two lower. Getting your weight as low as you can without being unhealthy is the most important factor and it also helps with wear and tear on the hands / body = injury prevention.

@neildutoit5177

Жыл бұрын

How long did it take you? Did you just drop fat mass or did you lose a bunch of muscle?

@cwehden

Жыл бұрын

@@neildutoit5177 Slowly over 9 months, just going to the climbing gym consistently and eating a better diet, my extra weight was all fat. I've never cared much muscle only lots of blubber / puppy fat so I have no idea about the other side of this problem, I was chubby before and now I'm lean. Everyone will have a different baseline in terms of healthy weight they can get down to. But they will climb much easier at that base line. I wish these videos stopped treading carefully around this taboo subject. High body fat makes climbing exponentially harder and also increases injury risk, that's the bottom line.

@peppek8631

2 ай бұрын

NAH more strenght you have the heavier you are and the strenght its much more usefull than being lightweight, but im guessing after a year you figured that out by yourself :) Men can get significant benefit and its easier to put on muscle.

@peppek8631

2 ай бұрын

i dont mean overweight but for 180cm man about 78-80kg athletic body type easily

@nilsp9426

11 күн бұрын

I think the topic of losing fat (to a healthy degree) is quite clear: a low body fat percentage will make you fitter in all sports. The more difficult question is that of how much you want to do to gain muscle mass (eating excess protein, doing strength training) versus staying light. From what I understand there it matters a lot which muscles you train and grow, as well as how well you make use of your strengths and cover your weaknesses with your climbing style.

My natural bodyweight is 86-89kg (10-15% fat). Years i spent trying to get lighter, (and stronger), but not anymore. You must recover good, if you want to get any gains and stay healthy. Good recovery let you gain power, flexibility and learn moving patterns much easier than in prolonged fatigue, even you are few kg heavier.

@mpjk427

3 жыл бұрын

183cm

I am 5'6" (1.67m) and 168 lbs (76 kg). 20% body-fat. Years of weight-lifting and heavy squats mean big, heavy legs. I boulder at the V3 level right now with an occasional foray up to a V5. If I don't warm up properly, my hands will complain for up to a week.. a dull ache down to the bone. A proper warm-up + great recovery and I find I can come back strong in a couple of days. I have found that warming up on an easy bouldering problem is not good enough as the problem is usually short.. unless I do several laps. A much more involving warm-up for me is to start on an easy (5.6 or 5.7) sport climbing wall using an auto-belay.. where I can use my legs as well as my hands. This allows me to engage my lats, abs and glutes earlier on in the climbing session without taxing my hands. So that when I transition to bouldering, I am using all the muscles I possibly can to move and not just pulling purely using grip.. which is both forgiving to my hands and also wires my mind early in the session for implementing the proper techniques.

@TheActiveLifeLived

2 жыл бұрын

If you're having frequent soreness and tightness problems in your joints, it's usually due to a lack of technique..focus on that, efficient movement patterns...and you'll be able to go harder with less damage as technique drills will more often tax your muscles than your joints....

Heavier I get, the fingers struggle. Funnily massive shoulder moves aren't as common outdoors as 8mm crimps.

Loving Tom's Hair in this.

@LatticeTraining

4 жыл бұрын

It's about to get shaved off again....

@adamloeffler3617

4 жыл бұрын

Extra hair = unnecessary kilos

amazing content as always ! Wolud you make a video about elbow tendonitis or joint injuries in general when climbing?. Ive been a climbing for the past 3 years and have suffered from both tennis and golfers elbow.

@LatticeTraining

4 жыл бұрын

joao castillo we’ll see if we can sort this out for you 😊

Put on some muscle mass... it looks great and it helps a lot... i can tell you that as a female boulder girl! It is also a techniqule perspective which helps with climbing... a good mix and combination is best i my opinion!

What was touched upon but not explored here is the importance of recruitment and neural pathway development (engram training). Follow up any hypertrophy cycle with power training and dynamic climbing (bouldering) as well as skill sets development (practice various moves aiming to attain perfect technique - repeat these in greater and greater states of fatigue to stress proof the technique). Concentrate on your weaknesses. An Olympic weight lifter discovered that he could still attain his PB after two years of no training with much lower muscle mass - this was solely due to his neural pathway development and high recruitment. So bulk up first then strip it down again through the recruitment phase that should follow your hypertrophy phase. Each phase of an overall macro cycle will compromise other aspects of the training - it's unavoidable. You build up overall gains by repeating the macro cycles over the years - just remember to vary the training as much as possible to avoid plateaus.

It's great to hear from Ella, especially on muscle building. Everything I have heard about training for climbing has come from a male perspective, I definitely don't build enough muscle just by climbing... I'm keen to understand this better so I don't make unhelpful comparisons with my male climbing friends. What are the key things female climbers might benefit from doing differently than male climbers?

@LatticeTraining

4 жыл бұрын

Bryony Albery come and join our women’s (free) Facebook group... might be useful? Search “lattice ladies” 😊

@2013_Shox

4 жыл бұрын

Bryony Albery unless you take steroids women except maybe the top 0.1% can put on enough muscle to look "manly" . I think women should strength train just as much if not more than men.

@bryonyalbery6926

4 жыл бұрын

@@LatticeTraining thanks!

@bryonyalbery6926

4 жыл бұрын

@@2013_Shox not interested in looking like anything tbh - just climbing harder ;)

As you mention gymnasts, I met an ex gymnast climber aged 60 at Water Cum Jolly. He was working on Caviar. He said that even people like Moffat were weak compared to gymnasts. He suggested we shake hands and he was about 35 % stronger than me while only about 6kilos heavier. Boulderer John Gill was a gymnast first as was Lynn Hill. Moffat and Moon both trained on boulders to do their sport routes,as well as in Sheffield cellars,and both were strict with their diet.If you train for trad you have to train for the extra weight of the gear plus 2 ropes sometimes.If you regularly feel like you don't have the energy to attack a hard route,then you need to eat a bit more,and don't forget to build resting into your program.

@PB-sk9jn

6 ай бұрын

Margot Hayes.. gymnastics background.

I'm a naturally lean build but I can put on muscle mass relatively easily if I specifically train in that way. Something I have learned through experimentation is in the past when I was really specifically targeting aspects I felt to be weak such as pull strength or explosive power in the gym these were times where I actually started to hit a bit of a plateu in my climbing. The training I was doing was correct for the perceived weakness I had but what was happening is I was over simplifying my struggles on the wall and actually missing the combination of weaknesses (often technique due to core weakness I wasn't aware of) that was limiting my progression. For me I really started to progress when I completely stopped targeted gym training and focused my time entirely on climbing. This doesn't mean I wasn't doing drills, just when I was doing drills I was doing them on the wall on the kinds of climbs I was finding hard / was avoiding completely. It was nice to see this brought up in this video, as there are so many resources and so much information on youtube on how to train for this and that... but honestly I have found the best training for me is to find climbs that incorporate aspects of movement or strength that I find really hard and just really work on those climbs. I'm not some amazing climber, in my gym on a try hard day if I'm performing well I'll lead a 7b - most of the time I stay in the 6s and outdoors is a different story, but I firmly believe in just getting on the wall and putting the miles in. When you find a route in the gym that really tested your limits and took everything you had to get to the top this is an absolutely brilliant find - this route should now be in your schedule to hit every time you are at the centre and really what you want to do is focus on efficiency and repetition. Finding a route that was an absolute monster to defeat and taking it to a place where you can repeat it 2 or 3 times in a row is undeniable progression on lead. It's a bit different with beta focused boulders but the movement and muscle memory is all positive progress. Finding climbs at your limit and repeating them for me has progressed my climbing tremendously. That and finding climbs that look like they have holds or sections that you naturally want to avoid, if progression is purely your aim then if you steer into these things consistently you will see improvements. Bit of a massive message there, what I was trying to say was probably lost in the rambling... I hope that made some sort of sense anyway. TLDR; just getting on and climbing difficult things over and over is an absolutely excellent way of training, unless you are already an extremely strong climber I would always suggest spending more time on the wall over any other type of training if climbing performance is all you care about. I think guys especially tend to add workouts to their routine as it's difficult to have such a physical hobby and *not* start to care more about body image, I think a comparison you could draw here is the stereotypical elite boxer with the huge pecks... those pecks aren't needed to throw punches, but if you are that fit and strong as a guy you want those pecks so you train for them anyway. Maybe I'm talking shit I dunno, but there's my thoughts anyway :)

@BenFletcherVideos

4 жыл бұрын

that was a great read (all make sense), thanks Liam :)

@sebastian31337

4 жыл бұрын

I think strong pecs are beneficial for boxers: your arm swinging in from the side to the center of your body will require pectoral strength to finish the blow, think dumbbell flys.

@drschwandi3687

4 жыл бұрын

@@sebastian31337 Interestingly the most important muscle for heavy punches are the glutes.

I do 7 sessions of weight lifting for every session of climbing, obviously I'm a little heavier as a result, but the extra strength makes up for it I think. (Assuming you can keep your bodyfat down). The only issue is that big heavy legs make campusing pretty hard. Like they said in the video, being heavier and stronger makes powerful moves easier, but makes slow crimpy stuff harder.

I think specificity comes into this conversation. Not just “mass” but useful mass

Great insights, thank you! Being the stereotypical lanky build who excels at small crimps but lacks power and struggles on thuggy boulders, I've long been looking at adding some weight training to my routine. Do you have any particular set of exercises you would recommend that translate well to bouldering?

@Cynry

4 жыл бұрын

Kettlebells are very good to develop strength from toes to fingers. You won't develop useless muscle mass if you stick to the classic exercices like swings and get ups, so it translates very well to physical activities where the power to bodyweight ratio matters more than the max power output. That's assuming you already do some pull-ups and other climbing oriented exercices.

@stanfordlopez1369

3 жыл бұрын

I'm 5'11 and was 230 muscle, I was deadlifting 400 , benching 350 squatting 350, during that time I would bully boulders and struggle at crimps. I now weigh 190 and im killing sport but suck at crimps. Im planning on starting a dradlift program to build power. You should try it.

Coming from someone who's main sport is BJJ at a mma gym it's weird how many guys Including myself I consider skinny but compared to many climbers would be bulky.

@petermozuraitis5219

3 жыл бұрын

Do rock climb and find athletic carryover between climbing and bjj? I’ve thought for a while about the similarities in strength: grip and pinch strength with pulling, and how locking positions in climbing seems similar to locking and holding a position in bjj

@ParkCarolina

3 жыл бұрын

@@petermozuraitis5219 it's good for upper-body, but at the end of the day you're generally using like 60% legs when grappling and especially whem trying to gain position during/after a takedown.. so I guess in that regard, climbing isn't great since you typically aren't trying to build leg strength other than hamstrings to pull hard on heel hooks. I also had to stop bjj/muy thai because I was getting some pretty serious tendinitis from overusing my forearms so much whem climbing & grappling the following day hahaha

Quite an interesting first q, I'm a guy and quite skinny, don't tend to train intensively or go to the gym but I have been climbing since I was quite young and while I'm not super strong my strength matches my body weight pretty well, and I'm also much more flexible than most male climbers I know. I often end up feeling that I should improve my strength more, I'm not really sure whether I do actually need to though or if it's just a result of often being around guys with much more obviously muscular body types - I usually end up feeling that my body type is more similar to some of the women I climb with than the men. (not something I have an issue with, just something that I find interesting)

so far my experience with myself. the ligther i weight the better is my weight to strenght ratio.

@swegatron2859

11 ай бұрын

Yea it’s kind of just physics. The higher grades you go, the rarer it is to find someone who can compensate their weight with strength. But this is mostly a discussion about feelings than performance tbf

great topic!

There’s a balance. And it’s different for everyone. For me, I’m doing my best climbing at my lightest weight. I do pull ups, weighted pull ups, & various other body weight exercises. Climb 4 days a week. So far, the lighter I get, the better I climb. But that’s for ME. (Btw I’m a healthy male in my healthy weight BMI)

immediate like for sleepy boi on the couch

My favorite part was when you gave me permission to drink as much coffee as i want! Yaaaaasssss!!!!

@LatticeTraining

4 жыл бұрын

anosnd 😁😁

I'm 5'9" 195lbs (1.75m 88.45 kg) and generally a v7-v8 gym climber. 5.13a/b Outdoor lead climber. I don't really boulder outside, but those grades make sense to me from a comparability standpoint. My point is, however, that I'm a pretty heavy climber for my size, and that is mostly muscle, although in the winter, when I compete in another sport, I do gain some extra fat. For me, the most beneficial thing that I do every year is to lose weight and lean out. I'm already much stronger then climbers who climb higher grades though by any standard measure. Such as the number of pull-ups, max extra weight pull up, max dead hang open hand, and max pinch weighted lift.

@keekeys

4 жыл бұрын

That's super interesting to me because I'm roughly the same height as you (about 177cm) but I weigh more than 20kg less than you and we climb the same grade. Just goes to show it's about personal performance and training, rather than being too obsessive about your weight, body fat percentage etc.

@harveyts3

4 жыл бұрын

@@keekeys, It really is that. I have a climbing buddy our height and 10kg heavier then I, and he climbs just shy of double-digit bouldering grades outside. Now he was a team climber when he was young, but as his size, it always blows me away to see him move over the wall.

@ronpildil

3 жыл бұрын

No way you're 1.75m and 88.5 kg, unless you are a freak of nature or olympian bodybuilder.

@harveyts3

3 жыл бұрын

@@ronpildil, greetings friend. You just made me check; of course, I used a calculator to convert my measurements into "world friendly" measurements. I would say that the conversion means maybe I should have said 1.76. Hard to say the systems are not totally compatible, and I didn't do the needed dimensional analysis to determine significant figures. That said, you are not far off. I'm a competitive powerlifter. My weight to size means ratio means that I can win state-level competitions depending on who shows up, but at the national level in the US, I do not stand a chance. I have decided to trim down for climbing outside this year and working on my local v8 project. We will currently say 1.76m and 78kg and very close to single-digit body fat percentages.

@harveyts3

3 жыл бұрын

Current unofficial wilks: 384.34 Just for what that might be worth to you.

It's well documented that elite rock climbers have lower %BF, BMI and weight. They are also predominantly ecto/mesomorphic. In brief, they're lean with no heavy musculoskeletal development. Source: www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1665579617300418 But another point need to be considered: a heavy and big-sized climber will have difficult to "fit" in some places on the rock. They'll dispend more energy cost in a single movement and will show lesser mobility, what can compromise the overall perfomance, mainly on long stamina routes

@ginavanulzen6681

2 жыл бұрын

Yes this all well and true but people should also be working to their body type not against it. Really tall climbers can have issues fitting into the rock as well. I’ve noticed some shorter climbers have more muscle mass purely because they have to execute much more dynamic moves. There’s no point fighting your genetics. I’ll never have skinny legs but I have an impressive heel hook and pistol squat.

Sometimes I think being really tall means I don't have much choice with bodyweight. I'm very slim but still weigh 80kg+

@XibaXela

4 жыл бұрын

Yeah, I'm in a similar situation. I'm slim but I weigh 87kg at the moment without actually being that muscular.

@LatticeTraining

4 жыл бұрын

Height is a key determinant factor in your athletic performance weight - if you're taller then (all other things being equal) then you're going to weigh more than someone else 20cm shorter. That's ok as well! Too many tall climbers have an obsession that they have to be sub 70kg - this is not the case.

@chaosengine4597

4 жыл бұрын

I also have no choice but to eat that chocolate bar :D just kidding

@darryldodson468

4 жыл бұрын

I’m 191cm 72kg I still wish I was lighter

@thibautvaze9894

4 жыл бұрын

That’s vers light for your height, you just have to gain muscles. I m 188 and 80 kg and voir the moment a climb 8a and I m still improving

I have been cycling for about a year now and am 185lbs very bottom heavy. Problem is idk how to lose leg muscle or if I even should, since I feel fit and healthy with slightly beefy legs

Caffeine can hinder your body's ability to regulate heat. I found this out the hard way. I had drank an energy drink before kayaking, then a caffeinated beverage during, and and energy drink after, I also drank copious amounts of plain water throughout the day, and ended up with heat stroke, and quite ill for a few days. The doctor told me the caffeine blocks the body's ability to self regulate body temp. So as I watched this my thought was turned toward climbing often times done in the heat of the day, be careful with the amount of caffeine, You do not want heat stroke, it was horrible!!!!

the muscle mass question was what I was waiting for, I am a 85kg climber, let me tell you crimping is pretty hard for me even though I train a lot

@dongheng6613

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you for your comment. I always wondered. I weigh 57 kilos and I have been climbing for less than two years and have improved really quickly.

Strength training does not equal hypertrophy. Ask any power lifter that has to stay in a specific weight class.

That intro beat really slaps

@Trimhurdle204

3 жыл бұрын

Xxt

You should release this as/start a podcast.

@LatticeTraining

3 жыл бұрын

We’ve got this all ready to go... just a few tech and set up tasks to achieve first

So my body image being skinny is something I’m struggled with for a long time. With life stuff and just poor education and guidance, poor diet, sleep and training habits have led to quite embarrassing progress since first lifting like 6 years ago. Getting into climbing 2 years ago, I have slowly built some muscle just based on needs of climbing, but I’ve prioritized climbing progress and technique so much, my body has just become too efficient being skinny. Continue to make strength progress but minimal hypertrophy. Ik that’s advantageous for climbing, but just for the sake of vanity, I’ve been wondering a good way to integrate/balance climbing with some sort of routine that allows me to gain muscle mass, particularly shoulders and arms, which was mentioned as primary movers of climbing anyway, so it would still benefit my climbing. If anybody has input I’d appreciate it. I still wanna progress in climbing but I’m not concerned with the “ideal” or fastest gains in climbing persay

I was just listening and just noticed around 17 minutes that there is a dog on the couch XD

come to listen to Indonesia

Id recommend a bit more quantitative analysis. The BMI of top climbers is on the low side, around 20 for men, this can tell you something about your target muscle mass

@hellowordl9466

4 жыл бұрын

BMI is unrelated to muscle mass though it's about leanness.

@alpinepdclimbing9130

4 жыл бұрын

@@hellowordl9466 its highly related. BMI driven mainly by two facors: muscle and leanness. you can have a lean person at a BMI of 30 and one at 20. likewise you can have the opposite. However, i think its pretty clear that top level climbers are lean. id be very surprised if there are any top male climbers outside of the 5-10% body fat range. BMI is a representative measure, as body fat % shouldnt vary too much among top climbers.

Concerning that comment about menstrual cycle. Muscle mass isn't the important factor, but rather the amount of fat, as fatty tissue is in fact hormonaly active. Just wanted to clarify :)

I haven't gone through the whole video so apologies if that doesn't apply to all of it but as a non-native english speaker, I sometimes have a hard time understanding what Olly is saying. Could you maybe try to pace yourself and articulate a bit more? I trully enjoy the videos and the format, it's just a friendly advice from a non-native speaker! Keep killing it! And the tape is fantastic btw

@amyellison762

4 жыл бұрын

I get what you mean but I think it would be really hard for him to change the way he speaks and his accent, just my opinion.

@grooveithard8304

4 жыл бұрын

Enable auto-generated captions in the video

i'm a 70kg tree climber with high muscle mass, but i don't freeclimb much i just ascend rope a lot.

As a female that’s been body building for several years, transitioning into climbing, I definitely feel “bigger” than most of the female population at the climbing gyms. Now I gotta transition into using this “muscle mass” into improving my performance on the wall..

@taramei-leewagstaff9332

Жыл бұрын

As a powerlifter - im struggling with this now & im very. Serious about climbing - but I’ve also had an eating disorder … so don’t know what to do

just look at pro climbers like Meatball

@hihi-lu4mh

3 жыл бұрын

Hello fellow Magnus watcher!!❤️

@MrJust2times

3 жыл бұрын

@@hihi-lu4mh ♥

Sounds really simple, but can you go into detail on how to build muscle mass? I'm training quite hard - but it doesn't seem to happen. You mentioned hypertrophy phases, can you expand on that please?

@ali_valhalla2313

4 жыл бұрын

Eat more. Honestly, it's irritatingly simple. I upped my caloric intake by roughly 20%-30% and gained 4kgs of muscle over a 3-4 month period. To add though, I did start doing some high intensity and low volume weight training alongside climbing, so some deadlifts, squats and bench press mainly. Low reps (1-5) between 80%-95% of my one rep max, 3-4 sessions per week. I recover much quicker now, and feel just full body much more powerful. Don't under-eat and obsess with your weight, instead think about how you feel and bodyfat, because it turns out, I am just as lean at ~74kg as I was at 70 or just under. Sorry if most of this was irrelevant :)

@jrisner6535

4 жыл бұрын

@@ali_valhalla2313 no, good to know. I've been struggling to square that circle for ages

@GregHartSk8er

4 жыл бұрын

Hypertrophy would entail mostly strength training. I find the best way to gain muscle size is to train with weights. Typically a hypertrophy cycle would start with 3 sets of 10-12 reps with weights such that you are failing at the last rep of the last set, Slowly increase the weight and reduce the reps over time until you are doing higher weights but only 6-8 reps. I finish the cycle off by shifting toward power training firstly by moving to pyramids of varying weights 4 reps then 3 then 2 then 1 at close to max weight possible then going back down the pyramid (probably two workouts in a cycle). The very last part of this cycle would be 3 sets of 1 rep at max weight possible (only attempt this when you are obviously feeling very strong and make sure you are very well rested before this final workout - only one workout in a cycle - you will feel sore afterwards and probably wont want to do it again in a long time!). It is vital that you increase your rest periods as you move into the heavy weights both rest time between reps (so initially that might only be 1 minute but by the time you reach 1 rep sets it could be as much as 10-15 mins(!) - take a book to gym so you dont get bored or practice stretching in between sets) as well as recovery time between workouts (initially one day but up to four days at the highest intensity). Take protein supplements throughout this cycle but stop eating it when done (or you will get fat!). It is then essential to transfer that strength into useful strength - I do this in a power phase interspersed with skills practice (repeats of certain moves in increasing states of fatigue - engram training / neural pathways). Power should involve bouldering, dynos, as well as speed reps with weights (doing the contraction really fast and the extension really slowly). The aim of this next phase is to maximise recruitment of muscle fibers in a contraction as well as training neural pathways through good technique. It is a VERY intense phase so long rests are advised of three to four days between workouts - less definitely is more at this phase as you need max energy and concentration to benefit from the training. Anyway hope that helps. Vary the exercises as much as possible (think of many ways to work a particular muscle group) this keeps it interesting, keeps "shocking the system" avoiding plateaus as well as staving off injury by avoiding too much repetition of very intense loads.

If you can do all the moves isolated, but you cant link them all together (in routes) does that mean you should consider building muscle? Or is that just an endurance problem?

@jacklikesrocks

4 жыл бұрын

Depends if you are talking about a route or a boulder. If you can't link the moves of a boulder you need to try power endurance. 4 by 4s are a commonly used exercise for power endurance. If it is a decently long route you are talking about then you need more endurance. So some circuits. If you can do all the moves individually you don't need more muscle. Hope this helps.

@jacklikesrocks

4 жыл бұрын

Doh! Just reread your message and saw you specifically say route. Ignore what I said about bouldering.

Hey, a late comment here! Would it really be smart to train for hypertrophy and not strength? I'd think it'd be better with explosive strength training to have lighter stronger muscles. Are there advantages to having big muscles?

@LatticeTraining

2 жыл бұрын

Hi Josef, it depends. To a large extend the strength of a muscle is related to its size. So in many cases bigger muscles act as a prerequisite to strength gains. If you've been chasing explosive strength for months and hit a plateau, its often a good tactic to come back to hypertrophy. This is because neural adaptations taper off quicker than structural. This is also relative to certain muscle groups, just like elite gymnasts, climbers often benefit from upperbody mass but will avoid lowerbody mass. I've not yet come across a climber complaining there forearms or shoulders were "too big and heavy", yet.

@Bellmanbror

2 жыл бұрын

@@LatticeTraining Hey, great answer. Thank you for taking the time! Might consider upping my volume a bit occasionally! :)

Actually, it is very easy for me to build muscle mass (i'm at 96kg (~211lbs)). Thinking of my joints i want to drop at least 10 of them.... :-/

Well, I build muscle like crazy but my strength gains are always mediocre.. my joints hate me for that, lol

@herrar6595

3 жыл бұрын

Perhaps to many light reps?

There is a dilema I have had a couple of times and struggle with. Let's say you are climbing around your max level and you are in a potentially dangerous situation (i.e. : backcliped the previous carabiner, potential leg sweep etc ...) do you want your belayer to tell you about it tell them and risk breaking your concentration or do you prefer them to let you focus so that you have a higher chance reach a more confortable and safe position a couple of moves later ?

@olivierhuet9860

4 жыл бұрын

@@lazycat5108 The dilema for me is not wether or not to screw the potential send, but rather breaking my partner's concentration thusincreasing the his/her likelyhood to fall at the worst possible time.

@leoingson

3 жыл бұрын

Depends on the situation :-) DURING a risky steep 3-move-til-safe situation, let him do the moves. If there is time to consider things (slab), speak. Also totally depends on the person. Freak-out-personalities - tell them at ground level. Dead-calm - tell him most of the time.

The answer is easy when you see 35kg kids climb in 8 grade, light is more important. But stay light at adult mean close to anorexic, and i prefert the sean mccoll style than romain desgranges style (i'm fan of both), that's why i do lot of street workout.

You can only increase neural recruitment so much. To progress, you’ll have to gain muscle mass

@bradhobbs_

4 жыл бұрын

This assumption is probably just a consequence of training efficiency and the law of diminishing returns. Not necessarily counterproductive, but not relatively productive

@Mylada

4 жыл бұрын

Muscle strength will always increase as you gain more muscle if the neural adaptations remain unchanged. At some point the angle of the muscle fibers is at 90% with the joint making it impossible to produce extra force so extra muscle has lesser and lesser strength benefits. In climbing you have to factor in weight, which means that muscle size, neural adaptation and strength to weight ratio will lead to different optimums to different people.

@Benkkuful

4 жыл бұрын

@S MM It can be counterproductive in terms of finger strength. E.g. if you gain some muscle mass on your shoulders and back and on a certain climb you can't make use of that mass, then it's a detriment in that specific situation, because it slightly decreases your relative (to bw) finger strength, but even considering this I'd say that in most cases the increased muscle mass is a benefit.

@blablacu

4 жыл бұрын

look at the best climbers in the world, death or alive. They are Skinny. PERIOD.

@Brewsto

4 жыл бұрын

So you're saying that there are exercises that increase neural recruitment and have no effect on muscle development. Seems like bs to me.

Cousin and I are the same height. I'm 83kg and muscular from years of crossfit. He's 70kg. We have the same grip strength. He's consistently two grades higher than me.

@liviak7033

4 жыл бұрын

Technique

@Brewsto

4 жыл бұрын

@@liviak7033 Carry 13kg more on your back and try the same boulders and see whether it's technique. It's not.

@musicsavedtheworld

4 жыл бұрын

If you have the same grip strength then your grip strength to bodyweight ratio would be lower than his, so it makes sense

@lamolambda8349

4 жыл бұрын

Well Crossfit is dogshit dumbest exercise fad ever

@Gomlmon99

3 жыл бұрын

Livia K how is that possibly technique, 13kg is a huge difference

Get strong

🐲 I try to stay at nearly same weight (losing a bit fat) and increasing strength. For climbing that makes really more sense than training like a body-builder to blow up the muscle mass. Everything is to get more efficient muscles. .

Strong girls are amazing ladies don’t worry about that muscle mass

@fuzz6263

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you for saying this. Sadly, a lot of us are worried about our weight (muscle or not) bringing us down in climbing.

I'm 18.5 stone and an older climber. Easier to get strong than light. And no, being heavy doesn't hold you to the rock more firmly. Not without gripping harder somewhere else. Equal and opposite forces plus force vector triangle......

@oli5210

4 жыл бұрын

It would hold you closer if you are heavier than someone due to excess muscle in the right areas such as your core.

I'm from Spain and I'm always watching different videos in english, but for me it's impossible to understand you Oli... So sorry because I love your topics : /

@LatticeTraining

4 жыл бұрын

Guillermo Moreno Parra ah really sorry!!

@grooveithard8304

4 жыл бұрын

Enable auto generated captions in the video

Hm their suggestion that small crimps are harder when you're heavy and burly overhangs are easier contradicts my experience. I'm a heavier climber who puts on muscle easily (F, 5'1,130lb, 20%body fat) but I naturally excel most at crimpy, slightly overhanging lines

@Brewsto

4 жыл бұрын

You're definitely not a heavy climber. A heavy climber would be over 180lbs Your stats are 100% on par with their suggestion. Since you're on the shorter side (5'1) your weight is relatively low compared to 5'10 climbers. Your fingers are also shorter which give you that lever advantage on small crimps.

@plantsrockspolish

4 жыл бұрын

@@Brewsto fair point. Heavy for my height but not heavy in the grand scheme of things.

@finnplanb3

4 жыл бұрын

agree with the above im 6 ft 195 pounds which is pretty heavy for a climber i guess?

@Brewsto

4 жыл бұрын

@@finnplanb3 It's nothing to worry about if you're not into competitions but just in it for the fun / good experiences. There are amazing routes at all grades.

Im a powerlifter and an intermediate climber ( all power, less skill) and the weight/power/strength issue is KILLING ME.

1.80 cm 64 kg v10 (outdoors

As a middle-aged guy, I appreciate the suggestion that the mass hanging over my belt might be "muscle." 😆

I'm 19 yrs old, 6'0, 185 lbs (83.9) kg, and started climbing four months ago. Right now I can climb V4s, and am pretty close to completing a couple V5s. I started weightlifting last summer, and built significant mass in my upper body and arms pretty quickly, but I am still very much bottom heavy; I grew up playing soccer every single year up until two years ago, and I was a mid-distance runner for track all throughout high school... so because of my freakishly massive legs my strength-to-weight ratio isn't superb: it's quite difficult for me to do pull-ups consistently with good form. These past couple of months I have really fallen in love with climbing, but I also want to somewhat maintain this physique and strength I've created through weightlifting. Would it be smart to do 3 days of climbing, 3 days of weightlifting (push, pull, legs), and 2 days of rest every 8 days? I haven't done much finger training, and am hesitant to do so at such an early stage in my climbing journey... instead I've been spending 3-4 hours at the climbing gym projecting boulders the entire time, with the occasional top-roping sesh (my best is a few 5.11 routes so far)

Haven’t heard the whole thing yet but in my experience just put on enough muscle to be able to do a one arm pull up. However much that is. That’s all the body strength you’ll ever need, and staying as light as possible with that baseline pull strength is optimal. Don’t do any chest work leg work or abdominal work for hypertrophy. Just mobility

@goshirakawa2377

4 жыл бұрын

What proportion of the population can do a 1 hand pull-up. Nonsense advice.

@ficolas2

4 жыл бұрын

@@goshirakawa2377 what portion of the population climbs and is invested enough to get good at it?

@luketufts6827

4 жыл бұрын

Go Shirakawa Probably half of the people who climb V8+ can do a one armer

@luketufts6827

4 жыл бұрын

Only thing I disagree with is cutting abdominal muscle, core strength is probably the most important strength in climbing after finger strength (depending on the route ofc). Also, a one arm pull-up might be a somewhat unrealistic goal for many female climbers

@Jsoccer1999

4 жыл бұрын

Go Shirakawa kind of anyone imo. I went from like 6 pull ups to 6 one armers and I weigh 170 which isn’t a lot but I can do one with 20 pounds in the other hand. I’m no specimen I’m just a normal guy. Watch geek climber, he’ll get it soon. Anyone can and it’s pretty simple to

offtopic: can I borrow your cute dog for a year or five?

@boobrowsky

4 жыл бұрын

Norfolk terrier

@willardong3238

4 жыл бұрын

And 5 years gone on and it is still lazing on the couch lol

What do you think about supplementing Collagen and Creatine?

@schmetterling2169

4 жыл бұрын

Creatine is about the worst thing you can do for muscle recruitment. Collagen is great for climbing though!

@davidkoch5018

4 жыл бұрын

@@schmetterling2169 why should creatine be bad for muscle recruitment?

@stevitosgay

4 жыл бұрын

Schmetterling source?

@musicsavedtheworld

4 жыл бұрын

@@schmetterling2169 In what way? It helps keep your Phospho-creatine energy system saturated which is perfect for an anabolic sport like climbing, especially bouldering or power moves.

@Gomlmon99

3 жыл бұрын

Creatine seems like an awful idea for climbing, why would you want to add kilos of water to yourself? Collagen just seems like a scam...

Never will I ever say: "Oh no, I'm just too jacked."

Getting light and remaining strong🤣! Light is less contraints on fingers and tendon.

My problem is just getting light...

ok

2 years ago, this social distance media is hilarious

Best thing I can do to help my partner is to keep my mouth shut. (Also the best thing I can do for me lest I want to lose my partner. ;) )

@fuzz6263

3 жыл бұрын

It's me. I'm your partner.

16:11 I just start complaining that I'm hungry

Id rather too much muscle than fat

love the inclusive language w.r.t athletes who menstruate. great stuff as always! hope you're all well x

Not sure I would call gymnasts "petite" :P

@fuzz6263

3 жыл бұрын

Right! They're short but often very bulky!

Wihout watching the video, the answer is easy: - Both!!! stay light and get strong - add strength that benefits climbing and no more than necessary

So... The dog wasn't dead the entire time?

FYI, to most guys, strong fit women are very attractive.

@hihi-lu4mh

3 жыл бұрын

ok

@wesleygrootaert3243

3 жыл бұрын

agreed

@N3mdraz

3 жыл бұрын

For your information, i think girls with broad shoulders is a turnoff, but i like athletic women, it has to be proportioned.

Took me a while to figure out why the sofa is only used by the dog 😁

Top 400 climbers weight

@Zekew24

4 жыл бұрын

They're also all pretty jacked though, its a balance.

@rexhayabusa

3 жыл бұрын

Adam Ondra is around 70kg at 185cm

@Adam-ck2me

3 жыл бұрын

Jan hojer is almost 80kg and so is Jimmy Webb.

I can't stop looking at his hair around his neck!

2kg of muscle a year? I wish lol, not even bodybuilders / powerlifters add that unless they are on gear.

I almost closed the video when she said "those who menstruate" until she discussed women not being able to menstruate due to poor health, which is a serious and underdiscussed topic.

second :D

"People who menstruate" - I despise this Newspeak.

Imo women cannot put too much muscle mass on.

@hihi-lu4mh

3 жыл бұрын

What do you mean?

so you sit on a chair and a dog is on that sofa..?? why??

@wsemenske

4 жыл бұрын

Why wake the dog?

@LatticeTraining

4 жыл бұрын

Corona virus and social distancing 🙈

@RA-lh9uh

3 жыл бұрын

@@wsemenske why is dog your boss anyways??

Why did you talk about a climbing partner for 15 min when this was supposed to be about strengthening training lmao

4:37 - "athletes who menstruate", woke is here now too

@dixonleroux1865

4 жыл бұрын

Oddly enough that's almost anti-woke since trans females don't menstrate. Should just say females/woman haha

@barneyfromblackmesa2454

4 жыл бұрын

I don't think she said it to be woke, I think she said it to transition to the very touchy subject of losing your menstruation cycle. Menopausal women do not have to worry about this.

@DanielDavies-StellularNebulla

4 жыл бұрын

@@barneyfromblackmesa2454 Agreed

@IsuckYoungBlood

4 жыл бұрын

Women don't menstruate in all age stages.

@dixonleroux1865

4 жыл бұрын

@@barneyfromblackmesa2454 yeah I agree and I realized that as I kept listening.

My question is, why do you two get the chairs while the dog gets the whole couch?

@addsy6396

4 жыл бұрын

...covid?

@luketufts6827

4 жыл бұрын

‘Social distancing’

@hihi-lu4mh

3 жыл бұрын

Luke Tufts ya but then why does the couch need to be there in the first place? They can just have the two chairs there by theirselves

@luketufts6827

3 жыл бұрын

@Amber Baxter sitting on the couch is a channel tradition, I guess.

@hihi-lu4mh

3 жыл бұрын

Luke Tufts Oh, ok.This is the first video I’ve seen of them so I didn’t know

Stay light :'D For that I'd have to stop eating this chocolate cereal (read: cereal where you melt chocolate to use in place of milk...) /facepalm

first :3

woke as fuck vid, harry potter lady wouldnt be happy

Augh..... vocal fry has reached the UK. Can't listen!!!

Not sure why this argument exists, because there aren't any large good climbers. Strong good climbers exist, but no matter how much you flex in the mirror, if you are a great climber, then you aren't as big as you think.

@paulmitchell5349

4 жыл бұрын

John Dunne is hefty.

@HimanXK

4 жыл бұрын

Magnus Mitbo is pretty bulky, and is quite a talented climber

"Athletes that menstruate" - Critical Race Theory Cloud alarm!

I don´t trust people who bleed for a week and don´t die.