Dang I'm from the south and didn't know all the boulders in my region were sandbagged, I just thought I was weak lol.

@fiona1109

3 жыл бұрын

Yeah same, I used to live in Texas, when I moved I was like "did I randomly get stronger somehow?"

@Perrseus

3 жыл бұрын

I'm not from the south, and now I'm even more convinced that I'm weak

As a southeastern climber myself, i’m glad you gave the steep south a highlight! It’s been a long time coming for the south to get some recognition in todays climbing culture. Thanks Albert, keep killing it!

I think the germans also have similar style. Strong and powerful. Never enough POWAAAH

@gsing92

3 жыл бұрын

Frankenjura!

@AlbertOkay

3 жыл бұрын

You can never have too much POWER!!!!!

@Bobbyhiddn

3 жыл бұрын

BBBBAKAMONO GA! DOITSU NO KAGAKU WA SEKAI ICHI!

@mtc7598

3 жыл бұрын

As a german, I can confirm this!

@Mugicara

3 жыл бұрын

Albert Ok „too much power is a State That can never be reached“ - Wolfgang Güllich

Hahahaa that’s me!

@AlbertOkay

3 жыл бұрын

THE STRONGEST AND BEST!!!

Every episode in this series is just a wonderful essay in video format - an engaging intro, regular structure, solid primary sources, and compelling conclusions.

I guess my periodic eating of Southern "grits" doesn't count? "I'm bad at crimps" said Jimmy Webb as he crushed Lucid Dreaming (V15) in Bishop. Uh yeah. The big take away - consistency of practice and pick a "project" that you have to train to make progress? "Long term project" add that to my "I suck list", but opportunity to train & improve. I do have a good start because I always prefer overhang and cave climbs-yaaas. Great video as always and inspiring. Dig this series. Thanks, Albert.

Chattanooga represent!

Super happy I found this video. Editing is nicely done. Great content!

My people! I came up in the south, and it was so cool to see an outside perspective on things I took for granted in the style.

This is such a well done video and it’s awesome how you tie it into life in general! I’m looking forward to seeing the rest of the climbing style videos and the rest of your work as well. Your videos are so well done and such a pleasure to watch. Thanks for all your hard work and keep it up! 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼

Such a good series, i really enjoy watching your videos albert!

Great video, these obviously take a ton of work scripting, putting yourself out for interviews, research, finding clips, editing, etc... Glad to see you makin that youtube ad monayyyy Also, Ben Burk has a really hype compilation on vimeo called "southern season 3" that is a great watch of just pure hard bouldering

Nate Draughn and Taylor McNeill are good examples of this! I too am from the South and it really is different types of climbing and styles from anywhere else in the world.

Great video as always! I fucking love the editing on this one dude.

another amazing video Albert. you're killing the KZread climbing game. keep it up!

These style videos are seriously awesome!

Love this series Albert!

really enjoyed this episode, good job

I feel acknowledged.

Do you think you're gonna do an episode for the french climbers ? I'm interested by the opinion you could have ( sorry for the english )

Cool video! Being a southern climber myself, I definitely agree with most of what was said... especially the tendency to “grit” through bad conditions.

@namuhtsuj4025

3 жыл бұрын

I agree. I don’t feel like everything is sandbagged here. I know there are definitely some hard climbs. I resonate most with the grit though. I know people who would go out climbing as long as it wasn’t raining. Cold/hot, fall/spring didn’t matter as long as the rock wasn’t wet. That seems to be the prevailing mentality, where as in the west I see a lot more people waiting for climbing season to come. I guess it makes a difference in granite vs. sandstone.

Awesome! So cool to see the diversity in the USA! Would love to see Northeast or Midwest soon! (Shoutout from Buffalo!)

Southern climber here. Thanks for the episode!

@AlbertOkay

3 жыл бұрын

Let's gooo!!!

This series is seriously amazing

I don't know if I'd say "everything" is sandbagged around here. HP40 is kinda the only place that actively sandbags, but pretty much everywhere else has a healthy mix of softie and sandbags next to the well-graded boulders.

@poorboychevelle

3 жыл бұрын

Amen to that.

@jameshaydock8394

3 жыл бұрын

agreed

@luke_the_nuke

3 жыл бұрын

Yeah, the southeast has a reputation for being sandbagged, but that is based on a few classic sandbagged routes and not really reflective of most climbs. On average the grades in the southeast are pretty comparable to all the other places in the US that I have climbed.

@poorboychevelle

3 жыл бұрын

@drew13600 I don't know if there are really 15 states I would consider the home of Southern Grit. AR, AL, GA, NC, TN for sure, I could entertain arguments to include VA, WV, KY, maaayyybe my home state of MD (we have a few crusher that came up from here), but thats about it.

@jonnaylornc

3 жыл бұрын

An emoji grading scale could solve this issue...

That jimmy web scream gives me chills 😳 🤣

Grit= Type of rock found in the peak district, UK. I was So confused by the title until I watched your video haha

heyy albert. loved the vid. I feel like sheffield has even more sandbagged grades specifically the foundry. I would love to see a video on Jim pope or aidan roberts.

balling out with that intro. nice editing!

@AlbertOkay

3 жыл бұрын

Appreciate it!

That's my gym! Lets go Stone Summit!

@dreadlearner802

3 жыл бұрын

Despite the fact you have an Escalade profile picture LOL

@SpiritAnimalGO

3 жыл бұрын

@@dreadlearner802 Haha, facts. Good eye 😂

Jimmy's scream on that final hold puts shivers down my spine every time.

Yo what is that intro :OOOO Not sure what you're smoking Albert, but it must be good shit! :D

Mississippian 🙋🏼‍♂️ We have the “Corn-fed” perk.

In some crags in Mallorca Spain where easier routes have been climbed so much that the holds that used to be good when they graded now are slopers and sometimes a 6b feels like a 7a. Not sure if that is sandbag or what tho. Thank you Albert for this, very interesting topic

@loganlewis7083

3 жыл бұрын

Happens in the south too... Holds will break or erode, grade doesn't change.

@pinkyfull

3 жыл бұрын

I would call it route evolution. Happens everywhere. Usually updates to guide books will update grades but that's not always the case

My gym in arizona is the exact same way!!!! The outdoor climbing here is mad sandbagged also…the mcdowell mountains and the area up in flagstaff is notorious for sandbagged grades. I went to a couple of gyms in California and could easily climb 2-3 grades harder than my gym here.

moving to boone soon and was psyched to crush some climbs... guess they're going to crush me lol

@AlbertOkay

3 жыл бұрын

YOU GOT THIS!

California baby climber here feeling motivated to get at it as soon as our gyms open up!

@braydonsmedley5652

3 жыл бұрын

Your gyms still arent open?

@NovaBeau

3 жыл бұрын

@drew13600 I would agree normally, but it's a bit aflame 'round here.

Boosting the alg

It could be cool to have a "European style" cause Slovenia has very good climbers, France, UK as well! I'd be interested to hear your thoughts about it :)

@robbiefowler4278

3 жыл бұрын

dude uk is just shit yourself on highballs in the woods

@Asdfghjkl-ls1or

3 жыл бұрын

@@robbiefowler4278 probably not as good yeh but there are still some good climbers, i have a friend who climbs like v9

@frenchblacksmithedits280

3 жыл бұрын

@@robbiefowler4278 idk a lot about climbing, I'm a beginner but Shauna Coxsey is one of the greatest competition female climber, the wide boyz have their very definite style and they're very good in crack climbing... but yeah as I said I don't know a lot :)

@cameronbryan2088

3 жыл бұрын

@@robbiefowler4278 Mate you've got no idea what you're talking about

@cameronbryan2088

3 жыл бұрын

There is no european style the uk is massively different to the rest of the climbing community and j know for a fact that the french and germans have hugely different techniques americans need to stop lumping europe together we are separate countries why is this so difficult to understand?

I think it would be really good if you did an interview/zoom with Kelly Starrett about mobility for climbers. Hes got some great content on the internet and it would be good to see what he would recommend specifically for climbers.

We aren’t sandbagged, everywhere else is just soft!

Drinking game: have a shot everytime Daniel says "Boone"

Interesting video! I especially like the comments on style. I am a little hesitant to accept the discussion on sandbagging. Everyone wants to believe that their home area/gym sandbags. There is a good chance its true in the south, but so often people will tell you somewhere is sandbagged when they don't really have an appropriate frame of reference to compare it to.

@cameronbryan2088

3 жыл бұрын

True gotta travel to get a view on sandbagging :)

The only places I’ve climbed besides my home state were Joshua Tree and Rocky Mountain NP. Struggled on V2s in J Tree and flashed some V5s at RMNP. I think sandbagging depends heavily on the style of climbing

@cameronbryan2088

3 жыл бұрын

@drew13600 to get better accuracy wouldn't it be better to send some mates that aren't as good as you up it say you mate that climbs max v6 just about does it with a few tries and alot of beta and your other mate who usually does v8 manages it on his second go would help home in on the true grade and grab newbies to help with the proper low grades?? Just an idea

Right on - I thought that dude, Zach Galla, looked familiar from when I climbed/worked at TBA in Chattanooga. And of course, Jimmy was one of the cooler Neanderthal-level climbers from what I got from him. He had one a 2-hour workout at the gym where he'd warm-up, climb all 30-something V4-6/7s in the gym (did it in 27 minutes), then 5 V6-8/9s and some V2-3s to cool down. Oh, and would do 100 push/pull ups and 200 crunches in the meantime. It was always super cool to see this dude's athletic level in person, especially after trying the same things he was!

@dallasjones5846

3 жыл бұрын

Oh yeah, and I bought Jimmy Lagunitas one time when they were remodeling TBA, and I don't even drink.

I haven't climbed in the south, but McKinney Falls, is still the most sandbagged area I've experienced it's basically a moonboard. I love it, you either get strong enough to do the problem or not send. Unless you're Jesse and then he 'breaks' the typical beta by doing something nasty that he says is easier, i.e. using a disgusting heelhook, mono, heinous crimp.

@jessebclimbs

3 жыл бұрын

Lmao, Stop setting obvious figure-fours and I'll stop using them!

I climb a lot in North East and feel like when I go west or south I have a much easier time climbing a grade or 2 above what I can on the east coast (PA)

I live in NC and boulder out on 221 and the Boone area, and my goal since the beginning was to reach a point where I'm considered strong out here.

First, Jimmy Webb is incredible. Second, I haven't climbed in NC, so I don't know this for a fact, but I am skeptical of the pretty general claim that a problem graded V4 there would get a V6 from climbers out west, when most of the climbing I've done is at Joshua Tree, where some V4s seem pretty inhuman (and are also like... casually 30+ feet precarious slabby stemming nightmares). Idk, I guess sandbagging is kind of really style-dependent. I would guess that they probably do have much more thuggy overhangs. To be honest, I wish there was more of that around here, because it seems kind of more straight-forward to practice? Less head-game. Here in SoCal, it feels like there's a lot of delicate edging on vertical faces and a lot of swimming/wrestling up big bulges and slopey topouts. A lot of highballs, not a whole lot of roofs.

Rock type probably has the most influence on southern climbers. The rounded sandstone boulders of the south east force climbers to build better core strength and foot work, as most of the edges are slopey and the feet are smeary. This forces you to climb good. Additionally, the rock will destroy your skin if you let it. Grabbing grips perfectly and not letting your hands slide is a trait that southern hard climbers all possess. If you want to climb as much as possible you need to have skin on your fingers. Lastly, "easy" boulders typically aren't juggy or overhung at all. Climbs like "The Wave" and "Bum Boy" have poor holds, making them tests of skill rather than strength. These climbs seem much harder than they are graded until you do them perfectly, at which point you can do them on repeat without fatigue (something that you probably cant do on a western style crimp overhang.)

I prefer sandbaged grades more than easily graded boulders. You will get more motivated to perform better and if you climb in another region you will feel yourself much stronger than what you are supposed to climb for the grades you are use to. :P

@Mylada

3 жыл бұрын

Sandbagging makes everything 6B or 6C, you kinda lose some grades because nobody wants to use 7A or 8A

@cameronbryan2088

3 жыл бұрын

@TheNeatWhale you mean your route setters cant be arsed to do their job properly

But Daniel, how did you not plug the local coffee place you go to in Boone? ;) Pretty much the number one thing he talks about on the road!

Litttt

I’m originally from the SE US from near the same place as Jimmy Webb. I moved to Korea a few years ago, and the south is not nearly as sandbagged as Korea is lol 😂 ㅎㅎ

all of your videos are perfect, except I wish this one was in the voice of David Attenborough.

I find it interesting how similar southern climbing is to climbing in the American midwest, but for different reasons. Climbers here also tend to be very focus on strength and power. In the midwest though this is mainly because we have less outdoor bouldering due to geography and weather, so climbers will train like crazy for 6-8 months in the gym during the colder months and then flock to the few outdoor boulders,(which tend to be very sandbagged due to how smooth a lot of the rock is here) for the 3 warm months out of the year.

@sethpolevoi4027

3 жыл бұрын

Which states do you consider the Midwest?

@cameronbryan2088

3 жыл бұрын

@drew13600 Technique, balance and flexibility will take you further, otherwise every meathead from the gym would be an awesome climber, that's the difference

@cameronbryan2088

3 жыл бұрын

I suppose for bouldering it's different I'm coming from a trad perspective where saving energy is important.

3rd!

We like cutting feet because it looks cool 💪

Here because of Instagram

@AlbertOkay

3 жыл бұрын

Bless

Maaaajor sandbagging seems true for Pennsylvania and West Virginia too

Stone Summit Kennesaw is the best indoor climbing in Georgia.

The conditions are bad often with high humidity, you just get used to climbing in subpar conditions in the southeast.

@AlbertOkay

3 жыл бұрын

Hard conditions, but a great way to get strong which I'm sure you are!

Anyone who has climbed at Horse Pens 40 know what they mean! Lol Rocktown in GA seems pretty honest, though.

Really Interesting. Always seen Jimmy Webb etc clips as a sport climber who's highest climbed grade is 7b/5.12b on two occassions but got both of them in 4 tries and flashed several 7a's/5.11d in my time, projecting has never really appealed to me. Made me think projecting 3 desperate moves hundreds of times is so far removed from what I enjoy in climbing. Great to see the culture it stems from and what other people enjoy.

@louiswilliams3750

3 жыл бұрын

Jimmy Webb did dreamcatcher lol. Thats a 5.14d.

@widgetno1

3 жыл бұрын

What's your point. My point is that I don't like projecting

@louiswilliams3750

3 жыл бұрын

@@widgetno1 That Jimmy Webb has climbed much harder than 5.12.

@widgetno1

3 жыл бұрын

Right that was never under dispute

@louiswilliams3750

3 жыл бұрын

@@widgetno1 Im fucking stupid. I thought you said Jimmy Webb only climbed 5.12. Sorry I came off as a dickhead lol

I only recently started bouldering, my back is strong and I can cut feet easily, but my forearm and finger strength gives out a lot faster.

To me there's a big culture difference between the sandstone of GA/AL/TN/AR and the other rock types found in NC, especially the friction granite.

@jameysellew393

3 жыл бұрын

Some people just aren't with it

Heck ya C45!!

@AlbertOkay

3 жыл бұрын

I want to go so bad!

Would love to see some Episodes about us Brits and the Germans

@AlbertOkay

3 жыл бұрын

In the future, yes!

Dasani from morrison, CO in the opening?

@AlbertOkay

3 жыл бұрын

Coach's Corner v9!

Please do about Slovenia climbing style

@cameronbryan2088

3 жыл бұрын

Heard Slovenia mentioned a couple of time how do you guys climb???

Go to fontainebleau and you will find the exact oposite

Win for Kinetik Climbing

@AlbertOkay

3 жыл бұрын

Let's go Kinetik!

Wich climb was doing Zach on min 13.34??

i feel a lot of this can just be described as old school pulling hard to get strong. that climbing centre just sound badly graded but to be fair all indoor grades are out of whack, in every town in every country I reckon there is minimal consistency

@cameronbryan2088

3 жыл бұрын

It's nice when yours is one of the harder ones though I smash it in in london, nottingham, Sofia.... coventry=pain and a stab in the heart when you have to drop 2 grades

Strong climber? Magnus Midtbø. I'm trying to figure out this style thing. How do these southern climbers compare? It's because of Magnus that I reignited my interest in climbing (as an observer this time).

0:36 i'm watching this on the silent floor of the library :(

@AlbertOkay

3 жыл бұрын

Haha i love the dedication. Thank you v much :)

@sarahpreston4558

3 жыл бұрын

drew13600 even with headphones it’s loud :/

Seeing this makes me understand how unique Fontainebleau is. Sloper fest, requiring crazy contact strength on smooth rock. Jimmy still crushes it tho : kzread.info/dash/bejne/aY6q0rtwlJSTYpc.html

I'm gonna just assume that you didn't include Texas in the "Southern climbers" region because you know that Texas deserves it's own video.

I've heard the term "thuggy" so many times but what does it mean?

@partykrew666

3 жыл бұрын

like really physically demanding, not super technical or particularly graceful.

Kentucky climber... once again not sure if I’m southern or midwestern lol

@namuhtsuj4025

3 жыл бұрын

From your southern neighbor, we Tennesseans consider y’all in the south with us!

@zerodamonsta942

3 жыл бұрын

South carolinian here we consider y'all southern.

Time and money gives you time to dedicate, easy formula. (Parents)

Boone is indeed hard. Surprised he didn’t mention “Humbling” Bald which is also nearby

dan just thinks the south is sb, cuz he cant do raining choss

Can confirm Carolinas climbs are Gross. Stuff is pretty rough down here.

So is all the rock in southern US grit-stone? Like climbing in the Peak District!!!

@poorboychevelle

3 жыл бұрын

Sandstone. The closest I've seen to gritstone here is Cooper's Rock in West Virginia, which doesn't really qualify as "South"

@hamishlivo

3 жыл бұрын

@drew13600 interesting , cheers! I misunderstood the title. Gritstone climbing is big in the UK

@hamishlivo

3 жыл бұрын

@@poorboychevelle Thanks !

i'm from the south and i'm not very strong but thanks anyway :')

@AlbertOkay

3 жыл бұрын

I'm sure you're strong Sarah!

@sarahpreston4558

3 жыл бұрын

Albert Ok hahaha i climb 2 and a half grades harder on slab than on anything more than like 20° overhanging

i think magos said once that there is no thing as "bad conditioning", only weakness.

Are there OTHER problems in the U S apart from Sleepwalker ?

Can you explain the pink one in the corner?

2nd

Και για πες ...

Ok, i love your channel, but I don’t think you did this one justice. It was like you know knew 3 things you wanted to say before, but didn’t truly get to the root of what southern climbing means. Your guest also didn’t seem to have a definitive understanding. As a southern climber, I think this topic deserves a “ southern grit, volume 2 ” from you.

@Zaubza

3 жыл бұрын

@Anthony Ricci He missed all the glorious slab climbing of Western NC! As well as mentioning the intense trad ethics of the region.

No arguments for their strength are given in this video; just circular statements.They are probably strong because they train and their style reflects their training.

>place has a unique climbing style that emphasizes different movements and muscle groups "omg *place* is soooo sandbagged" -___-;;

Basically good climbers are strong

@namuhtsuj4025

3 жыл бұрын

Found the non-southerner.

first

@AlbertOkay

3 жыл бұрын

WOOHOO

@pjt8740

3 жыл бұрын

nice

@allandavids9284

3 жыл бұрын

🏆🏆🏆

Chattanooga represent!