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I just realized you guys are pretty much the exact opposite of the Hydraulic Press Channel.

@milkymeats

3 жыл бұрын

friday night before a scarey first solo calming lol for me just here.. cheers you twiddle twat hahahaha ;)

@imaginedauthority9455

2 жыл бұрын

wow mind blown lol thanks

@heyitzphil9792

2 жыл бұрын

Underrated comment

@udadni

Жыл бұрын

Hydraulic Pull Channel

So, this is not specifically a break request, but I think it would be useful for you to put together a sort of "executive summary" for your findings about which anchors are best used for which application and which materials optimize for which use case - supported with your data. Might be good fodder for a series that shouldn't cost you more money ;)

Great job as always. You and Bobby rock. I just sent you $300 to keep your testing going. Awesome work men.

@HowNOT2

Жыл бұрын

Thanks Duane! Hope you are recovering well. Hope to see you out at the crags soon.

Thats a good point about dual strand quad anchors. Im new to climbing and Bobbie's video on three top rope anchors convinced me to get the nessisary items for a quad anchor. Cool video.

I would be curious to see this test repeated with a nylon sling to compare strength and knot slippage.

@HowNOT2

4 жыл бұрын

we could, but we also did it in 6mm accessory cord released a few weeks ago

@foihdzas

4 жыл бұрын

Would the sewn nylon sling not be super gooder enough? No knots to slip or reduce strength. (double sliding x) But, you have beat the quad anchor to submission. I am confident enough in these systems, no more break tests are really needed, but they are sure fun to watch!

Well, I'm a noob about to go and try leading for the first time this weekend and I bought this exact black diamond sling to make quad anchors with. Seeing this just makes me super confident in its ability. Thanks guys.

@_pv350

3 жыл бұрын

How it was?

@greyed0ut

Жыл бұрын

@@_pv350 he died

@beauxgaloo9621

Жыл бұрын

It’s so weird to find this knowing he died climbing only weeks after posting 🙁

@rbritton87

10 ай бұрын

​@reecedi4296 did he really die?

@mrgrork

Ай бұрын

@@rbritton87yes he’s really gone. Rip Kesh, we’ll miss you bro

Thank you! I appreciate and love your videos!

Outstanding as usual!

i love that your backyard is as cold as mine was last week, and this week.

Friction welded dyneema was awesome to see!

Awesome as usual Gents.

I'd like to see you guys do a collaboration with the slo-mo guys... and I wonder if it's possible to see the fractures happening on a carabiner or something like that

@HowNOT2

4 жыл бұрын

i keep asking them!

@heli400

4 жыл бұрын

@@HowNOT2 Oh really?? and what do they say?? I'm guessing No? if you keep asking them :(

@MegaCbgames

4 жыл бұрын

Or Destin from smarter every day.

@logiconabstractions6596

4 жыл бұрын

@@HowNOT2 hope they catch up, would be really cool Though I guess there are prob. other channels doing slowmo stuff that may be keener on climbing, in case the slomo are not...

thanks for doing this (and other) testing :-)

@HowNOT2

4 жыл бұрын

My pleasure!

This video answered a part of an earlier question I presented on another video. Thanks

Thank U for this amazing video!

Thanks for this awesome video! :))

I think will be really cool to see how the different angles works in a belay angles. Maybe as well could be old ropes left in the walls, maybe I can get some of thoose. Thank you guys, always a plasure watch your videos

The grass is still so nice in this video!!!😲

You know what I want next! 2 separate side by side sliding x slings. Let's get 103 with redundancy !

@HowNOT2

4 жыл бұрын

i'm definitely going to play with the 2 separate sliding x slings!

@mikelarin8037

4 жыл бұрын

@@HowNOT2 its so easy to setup and it should be super good enough! as long as the slings are exactly the same size it should come close to the same numbers too.

Love the video. Thankyou. I believe if you had a high enough frame-rate camera you would see the sling broke at points of acoustic standing wave ratio points. Cheers.

Nice example of gate flutter there with the piece of sling popping out of that aluminum biner! Not nearly as likely during a real life whipper on a rope... but still a possibility.

@Govanification

3 жыл бұрын

You can actually see the gates open and the sling pop out. Pause the video at 2:51 and use the keys to step through the individual video frames. In this case the flutter is caused by the sudden acceleration of the carabiner body while the gate remains stationary, which is the exact opposite of gate flutter during a fall where the carabiner is moving and the body smacks a rock and stops but the gate keeps moving. Fascinating! I prefer wire gates for this reason on everything except bolt-side carabiners on my beater sport quickdraws. The bolt carabiner here actually had its gate open from the sling snagging it and popping out as it flew by. Crazy stuff. I second others who say get some collab with a high-speed camera channel so we can see all the hardware interaction in slow-mo!

Would love to see you guys test webbing directly through bolt hangers since this is still commonly encountered for rappels, especially in canyons. Webbing loop through hanger, webbing knott tail padding between hanger and webbing loop, girth hitch to hanger, stopper knott through hanger, and everyone's favorite: the American (Death) Triangle. Bonus points for age or repeated use. It's prob fine... right?

Thank you for this! Love your channel!

Nice to see dyneema get some love. or hate. depends on how you view it.

Thanks!

The way i like to make sure the sliding x is correct is simply use one loop and make the sliding x and clip it together, then add the 2nd loop and make its sliding x and clip it with the 1st. That way you aren't fuddling around and trying to make sure your grabbing the right strands.

Addicted to your videos! Have you guys done a 2 and 2 strand test on the quad MP with on pair unclipped? Haven’t seen that combo in your videos.

I want to see you do testing on poor cam placements.

@HowNOT2

4 жыл бұрын

coming soooooon

@tristanmayfield4851

4 жыл бұрын

@@HowNOT2 Quad anchors and sketchy trad placements coming up?!?! Best channel ever.

@foihdzas

4 жыл бұрын

Just be my second lol 😂

I fold my long sling in two a bit differently so it's always redundant no matter which side gets unclipped. Of course there's a potential for human error though.

@azaba2007

3 жыл бұрын

I think this is an excellent point that need to be clarified. There are two ways of folding a sling in two. And the way you choose makes a difference. This comment should be highlighted.

Ohh wow! It's so impressive seeing the Biners unclip themselves, that's some force yo xD

I think a quad anchor out of 6mm aramid cord like the one from edelrid rated 22kn would be the bombest of all bomber anchors

@RafaelFaenir

3 жыл бұрын

Haha yes! I saw the other Quad anchor video with the cords and just started searching for 6mm cord and came across these monster 22 kN ones from Edelrid! I think a quad out of that would be the definition of overkill! lol

@davidwarren719

3 жыл бұрын

I searched for cords after that video too lol. I just wanted to find some cool blue cord like they used for the quads

The videos are great. I bought a bag of your coffee!

Love it!

Seeing this test (as well as a nylon equivalent) repeated on the drop tower to simulate a factor 2 fall would be superrrrr interesting

@mattanctil5237

2 жыл бұрын

Wild Country has an oldish video that tests diffrent anchor material on a drop tower.

Another great video. I'd like to see you break a swamp anchor. Haven't seen that one yet.

I'm not quite sure but is 103 kn "super good enough"?

@HowNOT2

4 жыл бұрын

for me it is, but some people....

You should mark the strands with different color markers so when they snap you know which went to which.

On your quad tests you ether use a 2-2 or just 3. I have seen on line and in person. 2 strands for up belay anchor and 2 for clipping personal tether to. What does 2 strand brake at?

You might want to use different color permanent markers to ID the different legs/strands to help reconstruct where failures occur.

Well that makes me feel safer

This would be great to see redone with shock loads with the drop tower....

would love to see if you only use 2 strands as that is how we use it. 2 for the belayer and 2 for the climber. and then see if on a multipitch the direction of force in a fall, as in when leading from an anchor makes much difference.

You should do a sewn versus knitted sling video

"Redundant" means no significant decrease in strength/security, when some parts fail. The slippery Dyneema slides to failure at a fraction of the initial loading peak, so neither girth nor clove hitch provides redundancy in this configuration. I suggest using two separate shorter slings, and double or triple them to arrange the master point if needed, entirely without knots; similar total material involved, but actually multiplying the final strength versus reducing it with knots.

You could color code the slings to help recreate the original configuration/position

I don't understand how that happened 14:20 I tried it several times and it never happened. Some tests later... I think the problem is not in the magic X, the problem is in the way of using the double sling.

the fire department I work for uses long tail interlocking bowlines on 1/2 inch super static lines. i would love to see you pull on those and see what they break at.

This is why you should use lockers with your anchors

Is the delivery of force different/greater when falling(it being loaded within a second), vs a machine imitating the force over a longer period of time?

Very interesting video(s). Have you tested equalette 3? It is very popular in Spain, but I am not sure if the knots can hold the load without slippering, in case of a bolt failure.

I would like to see dynamic testing.

This was an awesome video. I am extremely surprised by the results of the quad anchor. I wanted to ask why we shouldn't use these slings to make a 100kn Highline anchor? (Other than abbrassion)..Cheers Bobby and Ryan!! :D

You brought up an interesting point in this video - Could you guys test Dressed Knots Vs NotDressed Knots?

@foihdzas

4 жыл бұрын

Interesting, but it would not make a difference. Dressing a knot just makes it easier for the user to undo after a whipper. A dressed knot quickly becomes gnarled up when this monster pulling machine tugs on it. If you are generating 30+kn, youve got bigger problems, like a broken spine.

@bullfrogboss8008

10 ай бұрын

What do you mean by dressed / undressed knot?

@DJthumpDJ

10 ай бұрын

@@bullfrogboss8008 Dressing is organizing the strands in the knot so that they run neatly (usually parallel) and dont twist/overlap within the knot. My understanding/logic is that a dressed knot does a better job of equalizing the load on the various strands in the knot, and it most definitely makes it easier to inspect.

So how much load would you allow in a test and still use the carabiner for climbing?

What do you think about these Dynema accessory cords (Edelrid rap line, Petzl rad line)? Would be interesting to see how they behave with knots.

I would love to see what the general trad anchor breaks at.

would be sweet to see 2 120cm slings tied in a single quad too!!

I’d like to see a drop test with a dyneema sling anchor attached to at least 10ft of static rope. Will the static rope absorb enough of the initial impact allowing the dyneema to withstand a factor 1+ fall?

Do you have a video on the breaking force of 7mm cordalette quads? I wanted to see which was stronger between dyneema and cordalette quads!

Would the 4 strand sliding x with limiting knots be stronger than a standard sliding x without limiting knots?

Great Video! Could you repeat this to show what happens if you make a quad using a 240 cm nylon sling with just overhand knots at either end? I only see quads made with cordelette or dynema, wondering if the slippery nature of nylon makes this use unacceptable!

40 kN? I weigh 170 lbs, so 10 kN is roughly my weight (77 kg) hitting something at 280 mph (129 m/s). This equip test looks good to me.

Does a dynamic rope break more easily under a slowly-increased than a fast dynamic load since thats what it's intended use is?

could you do shock loading tests like a cheap carabiner and a real carabiner and see if the redundancy of systems actually works.

The look of fear in Ryan's eyes when he has to figure out what category of break testing this video goes into is priceless 😂

Test to see at what point a Beal escaper fails...curious if it slips or snaps.

lol "I don't know how important dressed knots are"

I grind my teeth when he says "newton" with a "hard T" lol damn

I want to see the quad with one side disconnected from the start. That would be the use case of one of the carabiners comes unclipped or a bolt pulls out. You kept pulling after the rope failed but didnt cover a different failure

Last test was a win, put a couple triple fisherman's in those bad boys and you got three slings for the price of one

Dunno abt slack line... But as a climber these quad anchors are just overkill... The harness will break before the slings, binders, bolts, etc

Maybe an idea to fix the issue of finding out which strand was connecting to which at the 6:00 mark, is to colour code them with spray paint or something?

So I’m watching this wondering if the dyneema sling gets cut on one side and now you are relaying on that knot to not slip you’re pretty much gonna fall.

Might be helpful to color with markers various points to know where they where before they broke.

@professorsogol5824

4 жыл бұрын

My suggestion too. Use colored marker pens or electrician's tape.

I use my mammut 8.0 quad clipped into 2 strands with another 2 for my partner/ belay device. Would be cool to see you just pull two of the strands instead of all four in two different biners.

@kevingeary1472

4 жыл бұрын

Great video, thank you for your time and investment

@HowNOT2

4 жыл бұрын

we can chase the rabbit holes eventually

@va7oloko

4 жыл бұрын

Agreed. I think this one is common enough for multi-pitch.

@13BenVan

4 жыл бұрын

Agreed would love to see. I often do this on multipitch.

@adambanks856

3 жыл бұрын

I likewise do this as well!

Guys try that again because you already put force on that sling tape 👍

Hey, could you please do a "quad" anchor with a regular masterpoint knot. That same BD 240 cm sling would be ideal. That way one coud compare the "quad" with something that does not equalize. Same amount material in both test. The sling x was very good but it extends so much that the belayer is going to fall from the stance. So please do just a normal overhand knot. I bet it's actually stronger even when pulled in angle like 45 degrees or so.

What about if that same system with a magic X in place of the two carabiners in the bottom?

You used 10mm 22kn Would it be just as good with 8mm 22kn ?

How did you setup the sling for the sliding X to fail? I tried that on 2 points and it worked just fine with the "standard" crossing of strands. I doubled the sling as if I would want to carry the sling over my shoulder and then clipped to the carabiners, made sliding X, unclipped and it was OK.

@jonasnicolaysen8019

3 жыл бұрын

Looks like he clipped one end, put both stands thru the other, and clipped it back on the first again. Instead of what you did (like i would. I'm guessing he would also normally) sling between hands, one twist, and gather hands)

TEST SUGGESTION A double overhand knot in dyneema sling to reduce slipping. Note 1: a double overhand knot is asymmetric, so needs two tests done in two possible load directions. Note 2: double overhand knot not to be confused with two stacked overhand knots. Here is a video to clarify which knot I am talking about, though video does not show in a sling, but gives you the idea. kzread.info/dash/bejne/dmWV0JWhipzgl7g.html

My climbing partner sets our walk up TR anchor with webbing. He uses a water knot to make the loops and easily equalize it using 3 webbing loops to build it. Can you test a webbing TR anchor with water knots? Fyi we're not anchoring on bolts but using pro so however you're able to test this, maybe outdoors?

Importance of shock loading the quad anchor?! Compared with the clove hitch?! Refer to Brent Peters videos Clove Hitch For Anchors. Which one you prefer? Thanks!

Fun stuff. Super strong stuff! Dynamometer? Do you mean a load cell?

Ive tried so many option to try to reproduce the mistake when you use a double lane sling mammuth with slidding x at around 15 min of your video. for me the carabiners stay in the loop if i make it as i made it normally. why for you the carabiners is going out the sling !!!! thanks

Can you break a quad anchor made with a Nylon sling? Please?

What about the fact that BD mention that knots shouldn’t be tied in anything made of dynex ?

Since so many of these tests fail at the knots at a significant lower force than without knots, it leads me to wonder (half jokingly) whether we should forgo knots all together : O I realize knots create redundancy, but how often are sling/cord legs in a 2 or 3 piece anchor being cut or compromised?

How would two figure8 knots do on this quad?

So is that a yes or a no for dyneema sling quad anchors with limiter knots?

@user-pr5tx9ep4m

Жыл бұрын

They failed at ~40 kn.

why do you leave this one "keeper" strand unclipped?

Hey man - Im not good at youtube, but when you say "when we tested x or y" or whatever, you should throw a link on the screen like the super pro dudes dude. Like "boom" and then a link.

Should test if putting carabiners inside the knot to help undo after loading decreases the strength

The same test, except one side of the quad unclipped. Would the knot slip through? If so that kinda defeats the redundancy of a dyneema quad. Also, similar but different, both sides clipped, but pulling in such a way that one "bolt" is not loaded (the quad is loaded outside of it's "range of equalization" pulling on the knot)

@HowNOT2

4 жыл бұрын

those sound like good tests

@isaack6994

4 жыл бұрын

I only wish I had the coin to donate the slings! I love your content man, y'all answer all the questions I ask myself when setting anchors. another note on the first test, if the bar tack is in the unclipped side it would be harder for the knot to slip.

@sechsfufzig8738

4 жыл бұрын

It probably doesn't really defeat redundancy because you won't have an ongoing 10kn force pulling on your role while climbing. Even getting 10k at all is highly unlikely. A big lead fall normally generates about 7kN (if I'm correct). I think that slipping might actually make the ultrastatic dyneema a little more safe for big shot loads. might be a long shot tho

@isaack6994

4 жыл бұрын

@@sechsfufzig8738 even if the knot did slip you're still clipped into the sling (unless the sling broke/got cut), so yeah I guess you'd still be "good".

I imagine when you see forces of 30, 40, 50, 100kn, 9 kilonewtons doesn't seem like all that much but in reality 9 kn is strong enough to hold a whip even a pretty big whip

Can you do 4mm quad anchor?

I am new to your channel maybe you’re all really tested different brand ropes but how about Beal - blue water - tendon and most common brands 👍

You're saying the dyneema is slipping at 9kn which to me sounds like plenty of strength I mean there are cams and nuts that I use that supposedly break it 5 kilonewtons and 6 kilonewtons and I trust those all the time and if I'm taking a whip that generates 9 kilonewtons of force I probably have other issues to worry about

Is there a device where a belayer can lock down a roper he is connected to so he can do something else with his hands w/o killing the person he is belaying?