Great video Nick, thanks for posting.

Eagerly awaiting see another video of the completed engine.

@NickThornhill

2 жыл бұрын

I’m afraid you’ll be waiting a bit longer. Christmas has stopped progress but I promise to document the whole build

Great video Nick. The one thing I don't understand is why the block needs to be blocked completely as in your video if running a dry deck. Wouldn't a dry deck gasket hold it all back? I'm trying to find out if I can make a 8V conversion without having to disassemble the whole block and send it to a machine shop, so just drilling and tapping the block. I have converted my dizzy into a 36-1 hall sensor enclosure for the EFI, works a treat as it can run sequential without the need for camshaft sensor. Just an idea given that you are giving so many in your video!

@NickThornhill

Жыл бұрын

You can just block all the holes with a gasket however if you blow a head gasket, the combustion gasses could pressurise the water system and blow all the water out of the engine, if the head and block surfaces are sealed, all you lose is combustion gases and you can gently cruise to safety. Even if you run a wet deck, it’s advisable to plug and re-drill some of the existing holes on the block surface to align them with the k head. As for the dizzy with a 36-1, it should work but the crank sensor spins at 2x the speed of the cam/dizzy so you’ve got 18 pulses on one revolution and then 17 and your missing tooth on the next, rather than 35 and your missing tooth for every revolution of the engine. You end up with a pulse every 20 degrees of engine rotation rather than every 10 degrees. In theory it’s half as accurate as a crank sensor. You could use both a 36-1 crank sensor and the dizzy to give you engine speed and position but all you’d need is 1 tooth on the dizzy for position.

This makes me want to buy a 90's mini

@NickThornhill

2 жыл бұрын

DOOO IIIIIIIT 🥳

Is it running yet Nick. Great Vid, will be watching the following videos. Cheers

@NickThornhill

2 жыл бұрын

Hi ash. No. Not yet, my Instagram is more up to date. Crank assembly is currently off being balanced.

I see you've plugged all the holes, do you use a head stud with a bit of locktite and then cut it off? The brass plugs you used, were they bought or machined? Sorry for all the questions I've just bought a k1200rs head and am gathering the info

@NickThornhill

Жыл бұрын

Yes sort of, I found a machine shop that did the block modifications for me. He used Allen head cap screws instead of studs to make sure they had a nice flat surface to torque down onto. Although I have covered it in this video, Ive got better pictures on my Instagram. Look up nicks_projects. I will do a full video on the block modifications.

@kingrolovtec

Жыл бұрын

@@NickThornhill cheers I'll have a look on your Instagram , I'm very early in the project and just collecting parts at the moment so I may need more questions answered , keep up the good work with the videos. They're a good watch 👍

@NickThornhill

Жыл бұрын

Thanks. I will do. Feel free to drop me a line on Instagram if you’ve got any questions.

@kingrolovtec

Жыл бұрын

@@NickThornhill cheers 👍

I see that all the pushrod holes have been filled but what about the original camshaft and crank on the A series block?

@NickThornhill

2 жыл бұрын

You still run the camshaft as it drives the oil pump, if you are lucky or run some steel rods you’ll be fine but ideally you grind off all the cam lobes and just use it as a jack shaft. I will be covering the build in detail when I get there. Just preparing the car at the moment.

Will this head fit under the bonnet of a bugeye sprite?

@NickThornhill

Жыл бұрын

Oohh. That is a good question. I’m afraid I don’t know. I’ll do a video of the size comparison as the k head is a bit taller.

Nick what is the best and eseyest engine head combination? Like 1300 with a k11000 or k100?

@NickThornhill

2 жыл бұрын

Easiest would be a 1275 or more with a 16v head as the pistons are usually available off the shelf at specialist components

What’s the best head cams and throttle body’s to use on a street hot rod spec? Many thanks

@NickThornhill

Жыл бұрын

Using the bike heads, you only really have 2 options, LT cams that give about 110-120bhp. They idle smoothly and pull from nothing to a red line of 7000rpm. Apparently they’re totally road drivable but pull like a modern 1.6, good low down torque with a nice peak at the top end. RS cams that give about 130-140bhp depending on what you read. These still idle smoothly but don’t really come on cam until much higher up the revs and you have to keep them singing to get the power. John at specialist components said that an LT cam will wipe the floor with an RS cam until about 5000 rpm, then the rs cam just wants to keep going to 8500rpm. You’ve got to make sure your bottom end can cope with that. Specialist components also have a nice selection of different midrange and sprint cams that they have reground on an RS profile. If you’re interested in the conversion, it’s well worth looking into what they offer and get the specialist components book on the conversion. I Think it was only £30 last time I looked. I’m running RS Cams but I have got a set of LT cams to try if I don’t like the way they drive.

@NickThornhill

Жыл бұрын

Regarding throttle bodies, Specialist components sell one that was developed by ATpower but you can just use the bike throttle bodies that BMW supplied.

@bernardwarr4187

Жыл бұрын

@@NickThornhill many thanks. Think I’ll look for some RS. 5K plus works great for me.

@NickThornhill

Жыл бұрын

The specialist components book has a couple of engine build examples with power curves in the back.

@bernardwarr4187

Жыл бұрын

@@NickThornhill I have a copy, will try and find it lol cheers

probably a good video , but the poor audio destroyed it.

@NickThornhill

Жыл бұрын

Yeh I hear you. It was very early in my video days. I will be covering this again in more detail.

@NickThornhill

Жыл бұрын

I’m my newer videos, hopefully I’ve sorted this issue.