Chris Sharma On Gym Climbing vs Rock Climbing

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Chris needs absolutely zero introduction but it’s worth hitting a few of the highlights because it’s so absolutely mind boggling when you’re reminded what he has achieved in this sport. At just 14 years old he won the adult US bouldering nationals. At 15 he freed the hardest route in North America at the time, 14c Necessary Evil. At just 20 years old Chris sent the world’s first consensus 5.15a, Ceuse’s Biographie / AKA Realization. He was also the first to climb 15b with Jumbo Love, and the second to climb 15c, just after Adam Ondra, as the two of them worked together on La Dura Dura. Chris also took deep water soloing to groundbreaking new levels when he sent the king line of Es Pontas, 15a, in Mallorca. He later put down a 15b deep water solo, Alasha, which is the hardest of the discipline. Chris has been dominating for so long, that it might be easy to simply refer to his groundbreaking contributions in the past tense… but that would be a mistake. Chris, just a couple months ago, sent his HARDEST route EVER, Sleeping Lion in Siurana, of which he gave the grade of 5.15c.
Chris climbs with such flow, and carries himself with an almost mythical yogi demeanor, it’d be understandable to just assume there hasn’t been a whole lot of struggle for him throughout his three decades at the top of the sport. But as you’ll hear today, there’s been plenty of struggle, both physically and mentally. Today Chris opens up with stories that I don’t believe he’s ever shared before.
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Пікірлер: 39

  • @thestruggleclimbingshow
    @thestruggleclimbingshow11 ай бұрын

    Check Out PhysiVantage, the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Get 15% OFF your next nutrition order using code 'STRUGGLE' ➡️ l.linklyhq.com/l/1jgZH

  • @psurphr
    @psurphr11 ай бұрын

    I absolutely support people who only climb in gyms, if for nothing else than to keep the crowds down at the crag 😂

  • @namelastname2449

    @namelastname2449

    11 ай бұрын

    😂😂😂😂😂😂🐐

  • @averagejoegrows

    @averagejoegrows

    11 ай бұрын

    congrats man you send 5.8's

  • @Levi-Friss
    @Levi-Friss11 ай бұрын

    Having recently transitioned from solely indoors to equally indoor and outdoor, I totally get what Chris is saying about the outside having more ego. Funny enough, it feels more competitive than comp climbing, which surprised me because I would have expected outdoor grades to be tighter, more delineated since it’s more established, but because of the fact that it’s old the grades are so loose, I honestly feel that it requires more justification for any achievement. There’s been several times I got told “ X isn’t really VX, come to X” whereas indoors, the grades feel more distinct and I can relax more and just enjoy the movement.

  • @badbunnyTUBE
    @badbunnyTUBE11 ай бұрын

    Wonderful to hear someone like Chris find that experience and publicly announce the purity in indoor climbing as well. I've been climbing fpr 12 years now and somehow i have always felt like the odd ball who says that indoor and outdoor climbing is just as important for me and people shouldn't diss either. Most of my time outdoors i spend on developing new areas also so in that regard in the deep end of outdoor climbing as well. The transformation of indoor climbing away from being a tool to being it's own thing is a really good thing i believe. Board climbing and other training tools have easily filled in the gap of training for outdoor climbing.

  • @Aaron-xq6hv
    @Aaron-xq6hv11 ай бұрын

    Unlike the other person, I don't think Chris is lying or anything, but I think it comes from his view as a Rock Climber who occasionally also climbs in gyms. However, for many people Climbing = Gym Climbing. And I think in many cases, probably for similar reasons outside, the gym breeds ego. You are generally around way more people in the gym than outside and it can be easy to see a hierarchy that forms. There are many out there who climb in say the V6-V8 or 5.12b-513a range, which are objectively not elite grades, but in most gyms, will be on the far-side of the bell curve. But I'm sure we all know at least one person who is in this category who not only acts like they are at the elite end of the sport, looks down on people who climb easier grades or can get really upset when they don't climb something they feel is in a grade they should flash. Just as a few examples. While I also agree with Chris about things outside feeling more "weighty", I also think I feel much freer outside. Not only is just being outside a nicer setting, but you are simply climbing what is there, what the rock gives you, not what a setter at the gym decided was 5.X difficulty. That is where I find the movement more pure and the grades more descriptive than prescriptive.

  • @thestruggleclimbingshow

    @thestruggleclimbingshow

    11 ай бұрын

    This is a really well presented perspective

  • @thenayancat8802

    @thenayancat8802

    11 ай бұрын

    I have never in my life met somebody who climbs v6-8 in a gym and acts "elite", people are insanely helpful to all but the most obnoxious noobies

  • @Jivewired

    @Jivewired

    11 ай бұрын

    It's so funny to me to hear my own attitudes described by Chris as perfectly mirrored. I'm entirely a gym climber, where I expect to be able to climb a certain grade, and for me that investment is totally there in reverse. I'm about to go outside climbing for the third time in my life and I have zero expectation of sending my usual gym grades or anything close to them, it'll just be having fun and enjoying nature. I have a feeling the ego investment we tend to get comes with whichever type of climbing we relate to our identity as a climber, and our achievements as a climber. Chris Sharma is of course a legendary outdoor climber, the best in the world for an incredibly long time, and still at the absolutely elite tier into his 40s with a new 9b+ this year. All of which is an entirely rock-centric resume. So it makes total sense to me that coming into gym climbing with less identity investment it feels much less important to climb a certain grade, whereas for me that IS my climbing resume and climbing identity.

  • @Aaron-xq6hv

    @Aaron-xq6hv

    11 ай бұрын

    @@Jivewired You know, it's funny, when I was writing that I also thought about all the gym climbers who have gone outside and been humbled, but I didn't want to write a novel, so I'm glad you mentioned it too.

  • @Aaron-xq6hv

    @Aaron-xq6hv

    11 ай бұрын

    @@thenayancat8802 Consider yourself lucky then. Of course there are tons of great people in the climbing world, it'd be ridiculous to act like it's nothing but sunshine and roses.

  • @androgynousmaggot9389
    @androgynousmaggot9389Ай бұрын

    It's refreshing seeing someone from "the older generation" not being judgemental or close-minded to new things and "trends"! Still It's important to differentiate indoors and the tradition and "purity" of outdoor climbing! I would love to be able to go outdoors more often than few weeks during vacations, or holidays, but at the age of 50, with a family and the usual life obligations, the gym is much more practical! Great interview! 🤟

  • @VirtualTurtleGames
    @VirtualTurtleGames11 ай бұрын

    I totally agree with Chris here. If it wasn't for indoor climbing gyms I wouldn't have ever started climbing. There are simply no mountains or outdoor boulders in my country. I'd have to travel to other countries in order to do outdoor climbing. Don't get me wrong, I'd love to do that at some point, but just being able to go climbing 2x a week in an indoor gym, while having a regular job, is great. Accessibility is very important imo.

  • @fighterinmkiwiscience3517

    @fighterinmkiwiscience3517

    5 ай бұрын

    What's the price to climb in gym

  • @skip1860

    @skip1860

    Ай бұрын

    What horrible country do you live in ?

  • @Maduc
    @Maduc11 ай бұрын

    Kinda hard to climb 3 times a week year-round climbing outdoors.

  • @thestruggleclimbingshow

    @thestruggleclimbingshow

    11 ай бұрын

    Depends where you live, and if you travel to climb. In KY, I could do that for probably 9 months of the year. That is, if I didn’t have a job or family 😅

  • @paulgaras2606
    @paulgaras260611 ай бұрын

    Sharma has climbed so much real rock he’s bored with it.

  • @thestruggleclimbingshow

    @thestruggleclimbingshow

    11 ай бұрын

    😂😂

  • @paulgennaro2001
    @paulgennaro200111 ай бұрын

    Love this guy! He is the best representation of the sport!

  • @johnmcho
    @johnmcho11 ай бұрын

    I just like climbing.

  • @stevemcdowell123
    @stevemcdowell1235 ай бұрын

    If I didn’t have to work full time I would definitely climb outdoors more.

  • @blonk333
    @blonk33311 ай бұрын

    I just like that it looks like Chris is squatting in an empty apartment doling out climbing wisdom.

  • @thestruggleclimbingshow

    @thestruggleclimbingshow

    11 ай бұрын

    😂 He had just moved

  • @blonk333

    @blonk333

    11 ай бұрын

    @thestruggleclimbingshow I'm not here to judge dude.

  • @nohemimarchan3434
    @nohemimarchan343411 ай бұрын

    Love and admire Chris, but is this an honest opinion from the owner of several gyms? 🤔

  • @thestruggleclimbingshow

    @thestruggleclimbingshow

    11 ай бұрын

    I think it is. He goes into more depth on the topic in the full podcast interview

  • @carlosarboleda8993

    @carlosarboleda8993

    11 ай бұрын

    Aside from the opinion coming from Chris, what do you think? Do you disagree?

  • @noone-ld7pt

    @noone-ld7pt

    11 ай бұрын

    Very valid question, however his reasoning really resonates with my personal experience. When I go climbing outside I put a lot more preassure on myself to complete a climb, while inside it feels lower stakes and thus kinda more fun. I will add however that the rush of completing a project outside is completely unrivaled by anything I've experienced while indoor climbing. Guess it's all about stakes for me, outside climbing is more serious but higher reward, inside is more chill and feels more casual.

  • @wabdih

    @wabdih

    11 ай бұрын

    usually with age people mellow out. Not surprised by this at all

  • @carlosarboleda8993

    @carlosarboleda8993

    11 ай бұрын

    @@wabdih I’d say rather with responsibilities. Unless you’re a pro, at some point it gets very difficult (not impossible) to multi-session project hard stuff in the middle of nowhere. In my case now with a newborn, I’ve gained much more appreciation for the gyms nearby

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