Chris Sharma’s #1 Training Tool To Climb 5.15c
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Chris needs absolutely zero introduction but it’s worth hitting a few of the highlights because it’s so absolutely mind boggling when you’re reminded what he has achieved in this sport. At just 14 years old he won the adult US bouldering nationals. At 15 he freed the hardest route in North America at the time, 14c Necessary Evil. At just 20 years old Chris sent the world’s first consensus 5.15a, Ceuse’s Biographie / AKA Realization. He was also the first to climb 15b with Jumbo Love, and the second to climb 15c, just after Adam Ondra, as the two of them worked together on La Dura Dura. Chris also took deep water soloing to groundbreaking new levels when he sent the king line of Es Pontas, 15a, in Mallorca. He later put down a 15b deep water solo, Alasha, which is the hardest of the discipline. Chris has been dominating for so long, that it might be easy to simply refer to his groundbreaking contributions in the past tense… but that would be a mistake. Chris, just a couple months ago, sent his HARDEST route EVER, Sleeping Lion in Siurana, of which he gave the grade of 5.15c.
Chris climbs with such flow, and carries himself with an almost mythical yogi demeanor, it’d be understandable to just assume there hasn’t been a whole lot of struggle for him throughout his three decades at the top of the sport. But as you’ll hear today, there’s been plenty of struggle, both physically and mentally. Today Chris opens up with stories that I don’t believe he’s ever shared before.
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Пікірлер: 31
*"Just climb, Bro."*
@sethcornell1273
11 ай бұрын
Lol Chris is a freak of nature. He established Necessary Evil (5.14c) just two years into his climbing.
@drewpatterson6178
2 ай бұрын
@@sethcornell1273 he was also super young. Young climbers can just climb like 20 days on 😂
After taking time off, 4-5 months, and getting back into it and (seemingly) exceeding my past limits shortly after coming back it’s good to hear someone like Chris also took months off at multiple points
I love Sharma’s natural approach to climbing. I agree with the way he looks at it but I also think some people need different types of training.
Having fun is at the core of all of my training. I quit worrying about grades when I climbed a 5.7(durrance route) and had the time of my life with good friends. I just like getting out and having a good time. I still hit the gym 2-3x a week, lift weights, and hang on occasion.
@richardtorcasio4130
Жыл бұрын
If u keep that up there’s no reason u won’t be climbing 5.9/5.10 in no time
@blonk333
Жыл бұрын
@richardtorcasio4130 my comment was worded a little funny. I can climb 5.11s in the gym. This was over 10 years ago when I began my climbing journey, thinking the main goal should be to climb the highest grade possible.
@skip1860
2 ай бұрын
Lmfao 😂 😂 you quit worrying about grades when you climbed a fucking 5.7 Lmfao 😂😂
I am a bit older than Chris, and I can relate. Also I struggle with hands pain, which is something I never had when I was in my 20 or even 30. But Chris is gifted, I am not, and like me, the majority of people struggle even more after a prolonged stop.
@blonk333
Жыл бұрын
Dude, I feel you. I took off for 10 years, got back into it a couple years ago and have had climbers elbow ever since.
At the end of the day. It’s the same amount of work. Interesting way to think about it!
@kayu.crafts
Жыл бұрын
I am agree with you! same amount of work ✅ big win about spending time outdoors or perhaps other way 😁🙏
I can only 100% subscribe to all that Chris was saying about training! I feel exactly the same. I love this guy.
that´s all i need to hear today. Big sharma
@thestruggleclimbingshow
Жыл бұрын
💪💪
Legend sharma so much in that words great questions.
@thestruggleclimbingshow
Жыл бұрын
🙏🏼🙌
The older you get, the faster you get out of shape. I didn't climb at all for the last two months, then forced myself to go to the gym yesterday. I lost all my strength and have to start all over, like I never climbed before. You also become more injury prone and heal slower. It's also a lot more important to stay in shape and not let this happen.
@V8chump
11 ай бұрын
Really? I thought finger strength was pretty stabile long term? Or did your bodily strength like pull-ups me core tension take the big hit
@pauldapigeon
8 ай бұрын
In my experience it's a short period of weekness after the rest, that is quickly overcome. That's when you start to perform even better than before. A lot of is neurological and not strength loss probably. It's just your body isn't used to climbing and needs to re-accumulate
Can identify so much with this mindset and approach to climbing. Whenever it becomes too structured I lose interest och drive.
its crazy how what he says about one climber trying the route for 2 years and then sending it and then the other climber training specifically for it for 1 year and 8 months and then spending two weeks on the route and sendint it is exactly his approach vs Alex Megos approach. This is 6 months old and Alex Megos climbed the route a couple of weeks ago so he couldn't have known this was gonna happen. The profecy he made here was of astonishing accuracy hahahah
Anyone else noticed that Mallorcan rhapsody has been removed from sharma channel?
@XJXu
Жыл бұрын
yeah weird
how do i watch the full video?
@thestruggleclimbingshow
Жыл бұрын
The full interview is out as a podcast, wherever you listen. We pull highlight clips for the channel, two of which have been published so far and more to come in the future 🤙
He sounds a little congested
so you're saying gym climbing helps with climbing? gtfo
Witness the fitness
@kayu.crafts
Жыл бұрын
That is favourite climb ever watched