Dear,thanks for your review and thanks for your suggestion!we got it.

@erick2will

5 жыл бұрын

Don't wanna bump it but since you probably have this info promptly, I wonder, is it suitable to 2 Z axis?

@samuelgonzalez7783

5 жыл бұрын

@@erick2will Well depending on you stepper drivers you could use a Motor Parallel Module for that. Supply enough current and you should be good.

@TalpaDK

5 жыл бұрын

Also thank you for making the board semi open hardware: github.com/bigtreetech , sure does put you higher up on my wish list :)

@erick2will

5 жыл бұрын

@Ali Thanks for the reply, I just think that is better to have 01 driver for each sustained side.

@NorthGaSawyer

5 жыл бұрын

PLEASE change the servo connection back to a standard servo pinout!

Thank you very much for this review! Just purchased same board to upgrade what once was an Anet A8.

oh, I've been waiting for this one already! Thank you!

The Hypercube I built in 2017 has been doing just fine, however, I decided I wanted to swap out the stepper drivers for some quieter ones. Opted for the SKR v1.4 Turbo with TMC 2208's. This was great info to get me going! Thanks again!

I got this SKR1.3 too, combined with TMC 2130 without spaghetti SPI wiring, on my Hypercube. - sensorless homing - no wires for SPI - clean Also bought 4x TMC2130 with pre-configured SPI direct replacement for 22 euros from Bigtreetech. Also added the TFT 3.5 touchscreen LCD together with the smart LCD screen controller. Really a huge upgrade with all these features. Tip: the E1 heater input can be used for turning the hotend fan on when heating E0 to 50+ degrees, which is nice so when idle it doesn’t make any sound.

@msdesignru

5 жыл бұрын

Are you going to try SKR Pro next time?

@Tech2C

5 жыл бұрын

Well done. Yes that extra mosfet output can be used for anything. I'll probably do the same as you.

@blackmorth

5 жыл бұрын

@@Tech2C hi, top video as always. Do you know "zesty nimble" that's change bowden to deported direct drive. That should be cool to try to integrate it to the hypercube.

@TheForce

5 жыл бұрын

​@@blackmorth having a printbite+ surface he probably knows about flex3drive already.

Thank You for the HyperCube! I have build the Evolution with a duet3d. I could Not be happier with this system. Greetings from Germany.

Awesome tutorial Tech2C, as always! Thanks for taking the time to share your expertise!

@Tech2C

5 жыл бұрын

Cheers!

I installed one of these yesterday on my Hypercube, works great!

@Tech2C

5 жыл бұрын

Good timing!

Glad I held off on getting a ramps board for my hypercube build

Great video! I'm looking forward to the speed test video between the arduino and SKR.

Great review and Marlin guide, this seems to be a easy replacement for the popular MKS Gen-L board (dimensions, layout)

Just finished installing mine on my Anet A8. Great board and a great price. Took six days to get from BigtreeTech in China to Wales, UK. Very impressed. I didn't have an issue with my capacitive sensor and Octocoupler.

@benriefourie115

5 жыл бұрын

Any print quality improvement over the A8 board?

I just ordered this on Amazon with 5 TMC2208's included. Thanks mate you got me to buy something else (last one was that laser).

Ordered one right away! Gonna make my old printer work again!

Thanks for the wonderful instructions!

Great video, very clear and concise. I have 3 of these running ender 3's (with 2208's) and they are proving to be excellent value for money.

@pratyusha1588

5 жыл бұрын

Hey, was there any significant improvement in print quality ?

@Worelock1966

5 жыл бұрын

@@pratyusha1588 not so much in the actual print quality, where I do notice a huge difference is with my 0.9deg steppers on the extruders. I can now run them at full 256 stepping rates without them skipping, before I have to run them at 128 bit. I am also printing quite a bit faster with the 32bit boards. Then there is the added bonus of more memory on the board which means I can run all the marlin features and not have to leave anything out due to the limitations of the other boards

@pratyusha1588

5 жыл бұрын

@@Worelock1966 Thanks for the reply !!

I use this SKR v1.3 board in my Hypercube for a long while now.

Looking forward to that comparison!

Cool, can't wait to see some speed comparisons :)

I understood about 10% of what you were talking about but I'm certain that as I get more involved with 3D printing it will make some sense.

Awesome video! Detailed and informative! A lifesaver!

Thanks for this guide. I am currently using a makerbase gen l board it had the same issue with the pull ups. To fix this a opto isolator board was used to translate the signal levels. I have the TMC2130 modules and used wire wrap wire rather than jumper wires for a cleaner connection. Moran.

I found out what the issue was and it was indeed Marlin 2.0 removing sanity checks that has been in it since its beta. They are considering bringing it back so customers of pre made machines don't throw some super high numbers into their slicer and destroy their machines. Anyway I did an ABS print at 0.2mm layers and I am floored. Seriously, it was the most perfect print I have ever had with ABS (same old old ABS too) so I have to think that due to it not pausing it just makes better, and smoother, prints.

Thanks for your work and hypercube playlist

i haven't even installed the ramps board and now this..love it :D

@davidflorey

5 жыл бұрын

Same, just ordered my Arduino & Ramps board kit, and just saw this video... Grrr... Ahwell, will have to order this too and compare them myself!

verry nice that you put the parts data in the video. thanks.

Thanks for the video. I have one on order with 4X tmc2130 spi drivers.

Hey mate, thanks again for a great review. And thanks for the hypercube. Finishing my build soon, but waiting for this board to arrive. Im using an inductive sensor like yours and was wondering if you could please do a quick video on how you removed the pullup resistor and where or not you still had to add resistors to the sensor. Thanks :)

i still use ramps with 4988 drivers. rock solid.

This looks perfect for a board replacement for my Ender 3.

@BrianVanderbusch

5 жыл бұрын

Mine came in a few weeks ago, and this video reminded me to get started on it. My ender 3 is currently using a MKS Gen L board w/BLTouch sensor.

Thanks for the video. I was pleased to see you were using VSC as there are already several videos out there that show how to do this with Atom. I would add one tip: You don't have to specify the drive for the download. PlatformIO will automatically find it. At least it did for me.

Got my 32-bit board for 14 euro on AliExpress. Still works like a charm after 6 months

Finaly a good tutorial to how to use this board. Thanks alot! 😃

@msdesignru

5 жыл бұрын

not the only on YT

For the Z induction sensor, there's no need to remove the pullup resistor, you can connect it with just a diode : I use a 1n5818 schottky diode, the anode connected to the endstop input signal and the cathode to the sensor output. A schottky diode is important as the foward voltage has to be low enough to provide a logical LOW voltage when the current flow through it (it won't work with a 1n4148 and a 3.3v mcu for example).

@WolframWebers

5 жыл бұрын

I checked that with a 1N4007 and it works really good.

@meaonoro

4 жыл бұрын

@@WolframWebers How did you do thtat?

This is great timing! I'm in the process of building another Hypercube! This one will have a bed size of 300x300. Also including two Z axis motors, so I can have a more stable Bed (along with the quad Z rails. I guess I'm kinda going for a Hypercube Evolution like Scott 3D's

@WhiteWolfos

5 жыл бұрын

Did you build it?

@NZSpides

5 жыл бұрын

@@WhiteWolfos Yes, yes I did. I have been spending a couple of weeks fixing the bugs in it. Still a way to go to get it printing as good as my original Hypercube, but it's good enough to do simple prints with.

@Appregator

4 жыл бұрын

How do you add 2 Z-Axis motors on a board with only one Z-Axis Stepper Motor Drive Slot ? I see it has 2 Extruder Motor Step Motor slots.

I gotta say I'm liking that they took replacable fuses seriously. Tired of so many boards either not having them, or having them soldered on the board.

I just used this same board and it kicks ass, but I made some modifications to marlin 2.0 for baclash compensation in the Z axis for core xy printers if i see some interest ill post it up and update this comment. Just trying to be helpful in the community but I feel its detrimental to the firmware to spam forks if theres no interest. you rock man thanks for what youve done for the community.

@MrJacobegg

5 жыл бұрын

If be interested. But why not submit a pull request or open an issue on the Marlin GitHub repo? Lots of people have deltas and might want to use this board.

@Ryan11lv426

5 жыл бұрын

@@MrJacobegg because I had to remove the safety features for core kinematics in marlin 2.0 and didn't see anyone interested. If it gets some attention and people think it would be useful I'll make it an option and submit a pull request as you've suggested.

Looks like a fantastic option for people moving straight to a 32 bit that dont have a ramps all ready as they could use a "re-arm" as clones are becomming more abundant.

@Tech2C

5 жыл бұрын

I also like that it is a single board, rather than a double stack.

Wow, right on time!!! I just bit the bullet and bought one SKR v1.3 board last thursday with 5 TMC2208's :) Sweet deals! Even cheaper than getting a Ramps1.4+Mega+5xTMC2208. The only reason why I bought one is because I scored a ridiculously cheap 2nd hand Delta that needs some good loving. At baudrate you say eleven fifteen twohundred. Should be five instead of fifteen of course ;)

@Tech2C

5 жыл бұрын

Nice purchase! Yes I mean't eleven five two hundred, oops :)

@MarinusMakesStuff

5 жыл бұрын

@@Tech2C It's okay, people will understand. Right now we're heaving a heatwave over here so I can't work on the machine this week. I'll be receiving it in 10 days anyway and I just bought a mobile air conditioner so I can give you my opinion of the board soon :)

Big thanks for all this information.

It is quite possible to use a pullup resistor with an inductive sensor, it would just need to be an NPN sensor. the only additional component necessary would be a diode between the signal wire and the board, with the anode facing the control board and the cathode facing the sensor's wire.

@lkibbler

5 жыл бұрын

rickslful thanks for that info. I realized you were right as soon as I read it!

Thanks for this video. I think the SKR Boards are a very nice solution. The firmware-upgrade seems extremly easy, esp. for beginners. Esp. if someone has a "Mainstream" printer (like Anet A8, CR-10, Ender 3 ...) he might simply get a precompiled firmware.bin and put it onto micro SD, so getting a plug-and-play replacement. While any advanced user might config the board as he wish. A nearly perfect solution. Did I understand right that pluging the USB into the PC it is recogniced as serial connection and SD-cardreader the same time? That sounds great, because esp. here in Germany many people use "Fritz!Box" as router. This "Fritz!Box" is not only a router, but also has remote USB (called "USB Fernanschluss") and also can be used as WLAN- and DECT Repeater. Older used Fritz!Boxes (like the 7390) with defect DSL-Modem you often get for 25€ or less. I use a 7590 as main router and 3*7390 as repeater anyway - so with placeing one of the repeaters near the SKR using a USB-Cable and remote USB I could add WLAN to the SKR for free. (only for Windows PC). It sounds very nice.

Cool just ordered one!!! Nice!

awesome video, thank you very much for giving such good advice, i will also order one and i would have beeen stuck when recognizing, the inductive sensor just wouldn‘t deliver the signal.. now I know the responsible resistor already 🤗 two questions: what material are you using on top of the bed for best adhesion? And don‘t you ever use an additional cooling air behind the nozzle? kind regards

nice! I was looking into this

thank you for making this Video it is a metric ton of help!!!

Now I need the same for a dual head setup🙀😻

Hello, Thank you for your work. I would like to know what support you use on your heated bed. I am surprised to see it working with the blue sensor. Thanks in advance.

swap y and e steppers in sketch to fix skipping...amazing board

Awesome Video as always! 😁 ceep going! I hope you will install some Trinamic Drivers with the controll of lost steps 😉 this could prevent layer shifts ;)

@Tech2C

5 жыл бұрын

I'm getting TMC2208 v3 soon for X and Y

@dunichtich100

5 жыл бұрын

@@Tech2C verry cool! I wish you the best, so that it'll work 😉👍

This is awesome!

impressive board Thank for sharing :-)

@msdesignru

5 жыл бұрын

the seller just finished a giveaway of SKR Pro!

@thebeststooge

5 жыл бұрын

Bad reviews on the PRO all over the world.

Great video and very helpful too. I've been considering one of these boards for the #Borg (CR-10s4 on steroids). Now it's a certainty. Thank you.

@andypodmore6721

5 жыл бұрын

I have 1 on my Anet E10

@spikekent

5 жыл бұрын

@@andypodmore6721 Cool. I will check if it fits in my control box. If not, I will probably wait till I move the electronics to under the bed.

Their installation video shows them using the Z max endstop for the Z min probe. Would that keep you from having to modify the board?

More good news. Also keep an eye out for new TMC motor drivers in the near future. I hear there are more options becoming available soon that will do a better job with current supplied to motors to help prevent layer shifts. All this without overheating and even in stealth chop mode.

@Tech2C

5 жыл бұрын

Looking forward to it. I have TMC2208 v3 on the way to replace my X and Y. The TMC2209 is coming soon which has lower RDSon resistance which should mean less heat.

@loganfraser

5 жыл бұрын

The TMC2209 is available now with improved stealthchop and stall detection for sensorless homing. :) Drivers are still being worked on, however by the time they arrive from China you'll probably have reasonably solid drivers available.

@AndrewGillard

5 жыл бұрын

The TMC5160/5161 are looking pretty nice, too :) Check out the comparison on Watterott's documentation site here: learn.watterott.com/silentstepstick/comparison/ (Buy your SilentStepSticks from Watterott [or a reseller] if you can! They're the ones that are designing the SilentStepStick modules that the Chinese then clone! It's all Open Hardware, too: github.com/watterott/SilentStepStick ) The TMC5160 is much higher power than the older drivers/modules, but it must be driven over SPI - it can't use the traditional step/direction lines - so I don't know how well-supported that'll be in different firmwares. While the TMC5161 seems to bring back support for step/dir - but also has a MOSFET Rds(on) of 0.5Ω, while the 5160 was down to 0.1Ω, so I suspect it won't be as powerful. We'll have to wait and see...

Could you please explain how you got the inductive sensor working after removing the pull up resistor R11 Thanks

Sweet! It's a generic Smoothieboard! Way better priced than $105-180 depending on the features you want. I wonder if there's much benefit from going 32bit. I mean, my Anet A8 and Ender 3 already prints happily from Octoprint at 60mm/s with no issues. 60mm/s seems to be a good sweet spot unless you have a very stiff machine with a lot of mass to hold it in place.

This seems like a good deal for someone who needs better brains for a cheap delta. I'll get interested when they added an Ethernet port and web interface.

This was motivating all in one controller for a fair price.

I have setup a inductive sensor without removing the pullup resister and it works fine.

@Core3DTech

4 жыл бұрын

what type of resistors or voltage regulator is on your sensor?

any disadvantage with the cheaper (on ebay) v1.1 boards? also the re-arm can be had a little cheaper but then you need to add a ramps for things. thinking of getting 2-3 boards, 1 update my fake prusa and 2 make a laser cutter and 3 a small table top cnc

hello, great video, detailed tech info. would you do 32 bit vs 8 bit speed comparison please? thanks

Hello, Can you please repeat the print speed test that you did with arduino mega? with the cilinder. does this board has the same problem?

Huge advantage: The stepper drivers aren't built in and you can use your own instead, so using TMC drivers in your printers is made dead easy!

Just got the SKR 1.4 (the newer board, with "Turbo") with 2209 drivers. Wondering how well sensorless homing will work with a Hypercube

really helpful, ta !

Hi, nice video, I saw you shared your configuration.h file but would you mind sharing your configuration.adv.h as well? thank you

I know its 9 months old this video, but have you thought about a dual extruder upgrade for the hyper cube? I'm not really capable yet to design and chanfe the board configuration for it, but for some filaments that would be awesome!

will it support a k type thermo-couple? or perhaps a expansion module for a k type?

What type of sensor is that on your print head. Also, Did I hear right? I should be able to use this board without having to use external mosfets for my hear bed and nozzle??

Got the SKR 1.3 and board failed after a couple of weeks. Reads high temps on the thermistor inputs. Tried everything but reads anything from 100 - 200 degrees even with nothing connected. Ordered another board and seems to be ok. First board followed your example of removing the pull up resistor. Second board I just reassigned the BLtouch output onto the servo pins. No need to remove anything :)

When control in step motor . It's open loop. I think one cannot see different between the two board.

How does one power more than two hotends? Say you wanted to print three or more colors or have separate print heads for different types of filament?

Tech2C - Could you please help? I desoldered the R11 resistor, and i'm using normally open sensor with diode in reverse. How should i set up config.h?

When switching around the FAN_PINs (as suggested at 7:10), the newest Marlin version moved this to Marlin/src/pins/lpc1768/pins_BTT_SKR_common.h

There's a very interesting conversation or two on the marin github about using tmc2130 sensorless homing with corexy in marlin 2.

@thebeststooge

5 жыл бұрын

I have a CoreXY and what was said? Personally the bump thump of sensorless homing is not sane.

I just ordered one for my delta, I'll let you know how it goes!

@furkanbicer154

4 жыл бұрын

You didnt let us

Hello, Thanks for the video! Could it be possible to use the TMC2209 with their full feature with this board?

@Levisgil47

5 жыл бұрын

@npgoalkeeper _ ok Thanks. So in that case BIQU or Bigtreetech are the candidates.

Is there a board that can be used thats just plug an play like a creatility or something similar?

Anyone know if this could be used for a diy cnc-machine? I have TB6600 stepper drivers and Nema 23 motors.

Ok...I'm ready..plz provide links for purchase..serious inquiry! Aluminium extrusions?

Hello, I have a concern about this board. Do yo need to print with a cable connected to the PC? or can you save and print directly from your micro SD card?

Please help! My layers are not perfectly aligned. I have a anti z wobble nut! and a motor with thread build in! I am using the cura slicer! And have a skr 1.3!

This board is more like a MSK GEN L V1.0 but in 32Bit (the same inputs/outputs connections).

Hello again @Tech2C , did you have to make any changes to the configs to get your Reprap discount smart controller to work on the SKR1.3? First time using the screen I initially bought for the Ramps but never used and cant get it to work.

@Sonicshadow191

4 жыл бұрын

Made a guess that the pins were wrong and saw someone suggested the cables were installed upside down on some devices. Flipped them and seems to be working now

What are the lengths and diameters of the profiles and shafts? Do you have a material list?

Is it possible to use this for a 3-axies mill or maybe even a 5-axies?

Good item 👍

Layer shift that I have seen most often is USB. One processor has different timing and if its delayed even 100 microseconds it screws up my layers. Same reason SLI and Crossfire Both suffer from this. Nice build though.

Klipper for the win for print speed though and all you need is a rpi 3A+ at 45$. I've reached 150mm/sec 3000mm/sec^2 accel and stopped climbing the speed because I though my printer would self destruct and also I was too close for comfort to 100% duty on the print head heater.

Any advice on which stepsticks to buy?

Subscribed!

I had to do a lot of crazy pin mapping and debugging to get the smart LCD screen to work with my Arduino mega and ramps board, do I need to do any similar configuration to make it work with this board, or does it already have everything mapped out to the proper pins and functioning properly with the way you instruct us to set up the configuration file? Mines in the mail and I want to get as much guesswork out of the way as possible before I get it.

@m3chanist

5 жыл бұрын

It all works out of the box. Set env_default = LPC1768 in platformio.ini, then set your board name correctly #define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_BIGTREE_SKR_V1_3 and uncomment your display in marlin config.

will this replace a cr10 board?? is it plug and play? thanks

How did you use the ramps endstop to work with that board??

I had an Anet E5X died on me. Could I use one of this to replace the board?

Looks really interesting. I might not get the full speed on my Cartesian but senseless homing really interest me, you think it could be usable on Z axis with a fixed bed or is it still not gentle enough while doing it? It could really help with different temperatures/build plate and nozzle changes so to be able to easily change even drastically from glass with a 0.2 to a powder coated and 0.8 for big prints

@thebeststooge

5 жыл бұрын

No, sensorless homing is a bad idea and on Z is 100% no unless you want a broken glass bed.

@m3chanist

5 жыл бұрын

@@thebeststooge Its as smooth as a babies arse if you read the documentation and learn to adjust it instead of assuming default values will suit your axis mechanics. #define X_STALL_SENSITIVITY 6 , live tune M914 X/Y/Z,

Hi @Tech2C, Just want to confirm once you remove the R11 resistor do you have to short where the 2 connectors were again to complete a curcuit? thanks

@Tech2C

4 жыл бұрын

Nope, leave it open.

I have a prusa mk3s..it uses a rambo board i believe? Is it 32bit like this one?

@AcidicVids

5 жыл бұрын

MK3/MK3s uses an Einsy Rambo. It's NOT 32 bit. While 32 bit boards are nice I would stick with what you got at least on the Prusa printers, even more so if you plan on using a MMU2.

can I flash the firmware as arduino atmel? Need Special code? Need new stepper motors?