Arguably the best channel of this kind at the moment,you show us everything,and share your thinking processes,which is invaluable to someone like me who is starting out with DIY solar,a big thumbs up from me👍

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

Wow, thank you!

@TrevorFraserAU

2 жыл бұрын

Agree

Since all the breakers are going to be paralleled anyway. Get some wide flat copper bar. cut fingers in it to slot into the breaker outlets to make a bus bar that runs past the end of the line of breakers and drill a hole in the bar to attach a main cable to then run to your shelf bus bar. Saves many cables in the breaker housing and you can attach the cable at the end where there is more room.

@danfitzpatrick4112

2 жыл бұрын

Yep

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

That's not possible though as we have positive and negative terminals next to each others for each breaker.

@kevinroberts781

2 жыл бұрын

Absolutely. Flat bar is the best idea I have heard.

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

@@kevinroberts781 it's not possible though as per my comment here.

Throw the plastic box away and mount the Din rail on a bracket in side your own enclosure then you can use whatever connector you want.

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

And it hold just in the air? With Siemens Air Hooks?

@offgridwanabe

2 жыл бұрын

@@OffGridGarageAustralia 🤣🤣🤣

@sreekumarUSA

2 жыл бұрын

HahHhHhahha komisch 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀@ Andy……

Hi Andy with the too wide lugs you can squeeze them in the vice the hole becomes oval narrower just hammer flat to remove distortion. Also when you need a tight elbow near the lug . Cut an extra 2cms tthen.1st bend and hold in the elbow then the cable inner strands re align. So now cut to correct length and install lug. The elbow will stay due to strands on inner radius now shorter to strands on outer radius of elbow. Hope this makes sence. Love your content. Keep it up.

I don't know if I am subscribed to to many channels I try not to but they unsubscribed me from your channel and I noticed one more and I was watching all your videos and you are one of the least controversial channels Im subbed to

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks James. That is weird. You're here since the beginning so not sure what happend but welcome back!

@ 2:29 Take a short piece of copper busbar (maybe 5-7 cm long ) drill holes on each end and mount it to your main breaker. On other end you can connect your cable using normal wire lug in 90° angle. For the smaller circuit breakers, I would completely ditch the "Fuse Box" and mount only a DIN Rail to the cabinet.

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

Perfect. Thank you. That's a very easy solution. I should have thought about that!

Use the ferrules for the breaker connections. Strip the insulation and insert into the ferrule. Make the 90 degree bend. The fine strands you are using will bend and slide inside the ferrules’ tube. Now crimp to lock the strands tightly together. Cut with a handsaw to the length needed by the breaker.

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

Yeah, something like this I have to try...

When cutting them boot lace ferules, first crimp them, then cut with the cable. It works way better and you can cut accurately with no distortion. I used them exactly like that and cut them. They are excellent.

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

I know, this was just to see if it actually works and they would fit in. But thanks for pointing this out.

This is the very reason why i used thick walled copper pipe for my cable ends. The ability to flatten the end and fold it over on itself to do angles is super easy and very affordable. On one of my connections i had to make a 90 degree bend, so i flattened the copper pipe with vise, then i folded it over on itself to create the 90 degree angle. Yes you will have to make them yourself and drill the holes, but i was able to tailor the holes to the exact sizes i needed for each bolt. The hydraulic crimper was used to crimp it to the cable after i made the end. Regarding protecting the bars, if the plastic doesnt work out for you, just pot them... I did this on all my battery terminals with hot glue, but can use basic silicone.. i just put a bit of tape around the battery terminals to create a wall and then potted them with the hot glue, because they are super cheap and easy to remove if i ever need to do something with the connection.

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

Thank for sharing William. Lot's of good ideas here...

@John-gm8ty

2 жыл бұрын

I was just going to suggest the same idea.

Hi Andy. Great project. For the ring lugs and breaker connection, I will try to fasten a bolt and nut to the ring lug hole. Then insert the bolt into the breaker. This will give you a 90 deg bent. Just an idea from Denmark.

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

Yeah, nah, I'm sure that is not allowed. Technically it would work though.

I used Anderson lugs to feed into the circuit breaker, works a treat😉

Oh and also, you get a better balance if you distribute the load and chargers across the busbars and not all bunched together. That way you have less busbar losses from the resistance as the loads and chargers are next to each other and current will flow via much shorter routes.

@sarelwagner1099

2 жыл бұрын

Also note, having one charger and one load next to each other and repeat that pattern, you will have the least amount of resistive losses and heating of the bars

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

I think this is from the Victron book. I don't agree with this if you have such a beefy busbar as I have. With smaller ones, yes, maybe... They also recommend to distribute the battery connections across the busbars which I don't agree with wither. You would need several isolators, one for each battery and there is no main switch any more to shut down the whole battery.

@sarelwagner1099

2 жыл бұрын

@@OffGridGarageAustralia This is based on physics, everything else is optional. Currents always flows via least resistance and shortest path. No matter how thick or heavy the busbar, it has resistance, allways. Then we always compromise for practical purposes. You need to be pragmatic and do the best you can with what you got….

Hi Andy dont know if u have seen tis. Its Very interisting. EEVblog 1426 - WOW! This Problem DROPS Solar Output by 20% !

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

I'll have a look. EDIT: Watched it. Amazing! I can see the same with a single twig on a tree dropping a tiny shade on one panel. The output goes just down...

Thanks for all your videos, Andy. My first daily task is watching your videos. How about leaving the circuit breaker boxes where they are and routing the cables straight out the back of the boxes to the bus bar? I suggest you put hinged doors on the rack so you can reach everything from the front. You can put a padlock on the doors to prevent children from opening them. Have a great day.

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you.

If you add hinges to your alu plates you can open the parts where you need access. Good luck finding solutions and thanks for sharing so people can react and use a global brain to get your questions answered.

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

Th problem with hinges will the cable lengths I need to take into account with such a mechanic.

You could make your own cable lugs using copper pipe and a vice. If you use a pipe bender you can make whatever shape you want.

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

Or using a 90° elbow, one side flat...

@jondavidmcnabb

2 жыл бұрын

@@OffGridGarageAustralia exactly!!! You got this!!!

Use a copper pipe, bend it first then cut , flat one side drill the right hole and crimp cable on the other end ,clean the inside of the pipe with sand paper or similar, and then you'll get a pure copper Australian made connector in about 30 mins 🤠 Cheers Andy great stuff, love the channel

Just make a short solid link with 2 holes, long enough to bring the cable lug 90 degrees off the breaker

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

Yes, that's is great idea, so easy! Thank you.

@sarelwagner1099

2 жыл бұрын

@@OffGridGarageAustralia just be aware that every extra crimp introduce resistance, as does every extra bolted connection. Resistance = losses = heat

@NaughtyGoatFarm

2 жыл бұрын

@@sarelwagner1099 bolt and solder?

@sarelwagner1099

2 жыл бұрын

@@NaughtyGoatFarm Nope, you cannot solder with these high currents. Only crimping, cold welding really. Every single point of connection, ie. Crimp or bolted connection add more resistance and more losses. This increases the joint and cable temps.

@nicholaskeur

2 жыл бұрын

@@sarelwagner1099 Given it is a 48 volt system, and all the cables and busbars have a cross section quite a bit larger than minimum requirements, one extra connection is not going to be a significant contributor to losses

I had something similar with 4-0 cables that needed a drastic bend for clearance. I solved it by cutting pieces of 3/16'' thick copper bars that were 3/4'' wide. I made them 2-1/2 inches long. Then drilled the 3/8'' bolt hole in one end and ground the other end to be 5/8'' wide where it could fit in and the Allen bolt would hold it down tight. I bent them at a 90 degree angle. I hydraulically crimped the store bought nickel plated cable lugs, then bolted them to the copper extensions that I made. I ground the bolt head and nut to 1/2 the original thickness, rounded the edges, then wrapped them fully in rubber tape and put on a layer of shrink wrap while leaving the end bare. Some years ago I got a nickel electroplating kit that had a small transformer power supply and several bottles of nickel solution. So I plated these lug extensions with nickel before assembling them just for the added corrosion resistance. This system made it much easier to install those thick 4-0 cables without having to drastically bend them. It was on my friend's 65 foot live aboard trawler and worked trouble free.

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

That's a great idea to make small 90° angled busbars out of copper... I'll see what I can find...

@kimmer6

2 жыл бұрын

@@OffGridGarageAustralia Best of luck!

Hey dear friend . Make your own twisted/ bended lugs with copper busbar😉👍 or take 2 ordinary bus bars with bolt in the middle…. Best regards from Norway 🇳🇴

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you.

In Western Australia we just use 5% 3mm Silver Solder rods from Bunnings ($6.75 for 75cm rods) to make custom ferrules and lugs. Plain or tinned copper is too high in electrical resistance and not strong enough for most angled or bent installs. Silver solder is easy to shape, weld and is great for high power and high voltage connections. All yo need is a cheap propane torch and a couple of rods. No need to order and wait a week Andy!.

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

But how do you make your own lugs? Just out of copper?

You know it’s funny I was always told that you never want to bend a wire power was going to be used on. The story I was told was the water and electrons don’t like sharp corners. Water looses pressure and electrons cause the metal at the bend to heat up eventually causing a problem. I have wired many electrical panels and never made a 90 degree turn in any of them. I have seen very neat wired panels that have all of the wiring with those bends and I believe one you showed us was built that way. Since you like experiments maybe you could draw a hundred amps across a couple connections and see if what I was told is a bunch of crap or true. Great video as always I like watching your stuff. 😀

Hi Andy, sorry, in german....... Die Hersteller KLAUKE und CIMCO haben deine gewünschten Rohrkabelschuhe im Sortiment und haben auch Niederlassungen in Australien. Ich habe mal beide Unternehmen in DE mit Link zu deinem Video angeschrieben und um unkomplizierte Hilfe für dich gebeten ..... :-)

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

Oh, danke DIr Mike. Mal sehen was daraus wird...

Hi. Something we do at work with the ferrules or boot lace crimps as we call em. Cut the black collar off and crimp the rest on to the wire as normal. May allow some easier bend radius angle out of the breakers.

When I setup my first solar project years ago the availability of certain connections were either hard to get or just plain expensive and I could never/often get exactly what I needed so I made my own from copper tube then just tinned it using my oxy/acetylene torch, not sure what yourself or others think about this but hey it worked out perfect for me then.

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks Peter.

Four or five hours? I missed my chance... May the SPAT be with you and give you the perfect idea ;-)

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

🍺

Use the straight lugs and bend them using heat so does not create stress in the bends and would awesome besides . Great job

Heya, you almost need to have a work shop. it's good for me that at my work they have a technical service inhouse with all kind of machinery

If you put your circuit breaker box between the u shaped bars, then to take the cable out of the box you need to bend them 90degrees. My suggestion is place the box on vertical support between the two u shaped support.

Maybe try warming the plexiglass some, in the sun for example or miss piggy , before cutting or drilling, might reduce the chance of cracking. Thanks for the videos!

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks Dick, I watch some videos now how to drill, saw and cut Acrylic. It's easy as if you know how. It'll be in a video shortly ;)

Insert cables into breakers like we do in the USA. I’ve never had a problem up to 200 Amps in the last 30 years.

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

Not with this fine stranded cables. That's a big no no! A lot of the small cable may not have any contact at all to the terminal.

@mfgxl

2 жыл бұрын

@@OffGridGarageAustralia I think you are over thinking it my friend. Like the bus bar. For some of my bus bar applications I use a bolt and put up to seven ring terminals on the same bolt. So simple and works great. No heat ever.

Just a suggestion. To cover the bus bars you can use a length of square section white conduit with the lid of the conduit under the standoffs (on the perspex sheet) and the box section as your bus bar cover. As its Plastic its easy to slot for cable exit and it clips into the lid section on the deck. You can get square and rectangle section if you need it slightly wider. You can also spray paint it black and red accordingly. Working with perspex is pretty but it cracks so easy. You would only need one piece of box section (cut in two) with 2 end pieces. Not that expensive and easy to get from L&H or similar.

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks Greg, good suggestions here.

Hi Andy, I think it will be cool to have those transparent acrylic boards instead of the aluminium ones as covers. We can actually look inside and some LED lighting perhaps? haha. Although I'm not sure how strong it will be. Thanks.

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

I have the LEDs and clear plastic sheets already here for exact that setup but decided to go what is standard here in Australia. It needs to be a non combustible material for the outside shell.

@DSmartLife

2 жыл бұрын

@@OffGridGarageAustralia Yeah that sounds right, non combustible will be better for safety.

Andy why don't you strip more insulation back from the lug. Then when you put the heat shrink on and heat it. You can bend the wire away from the lug. The wire should bend very well without the insulation behind the lug. You could put a bit more shrink tube on at the bend.

Andy, I would reccomend being ordering some solid ferrules (like the ones in the picture you showed at minute 7:33. These will have the least amount of resistance compared to the other ideas mentioned. Best of Luck!

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

But they are not available as angled 90°.

I used similar approach ..with one exception i used for inverter NH1 fuses ..they are much better than those on DiN rail..yes they will take more space and you need special tool for removal..but still better than have it on DIN RAIL..and ofc once you will switch to 100Amp charger you will see how inadequate those DIn rail fuse holders/brakers actually are.But still nice video and good luck with your build..

Pin terminals ( DIN 46231 ) are also great to connect thick wire to your chrage controllers. The blue ones (35-50 mm² pin length 20 mm ) should suite your needs. Hope you can find them in sunny hot austria. ;-)

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

I have the blue ones for the 16mm cable already. Colour codes don't seem to match internationally 🤦‍♂️

Have you considered drilling a hold through the shelf and coming up from the bottom to a 90 degree lug and attaching that way to the bus bar? I think it would solve a few problems and look pretty clean.

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

Yeah, nah, there is a battery compartment underneath. That should stay separated form the power distribution.

Love watching your builds ! I think you should keep a better aces point to all your connections and not from top only ! Cheers

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

There is no other way as the shelf will sit at a wall eventually. Top is the only access here. Once build I don't need to access it often though.

Andy you can make your own connections with copper tubing.

I would be looking at using copper tubing elbows of a small diameter that suits the 35mm cable, may have to look at aircon guys, flatten one end of the elbow with your crimper dies turned backwards to get a great looking flat area, if you cant get elbows then try with just copper tubing with a bender former to get a tight neat radius. Also if you want to bend lugs make sure you anneal it first to soften the copper, it may prevent it from tearing

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

That may actually work! Thank you.

Other search term is "marine grade copper lugs", brands Klauke, Amphenol, Selterm, I hope this helps

I suppose to use "soft" (flexible) copper busbars to make small mini-busbars, that could be bended in DIY home/garage shop. What I mean. Your tinned busbars are "hard" copper busbars, commonly used in electric dustribution equipment. Here, in Russia, we can buy not anly this "hard" copper busbars, but also, a "soft" (flexible) copper busbars. These "soft" busbars are very handy, when you need to make some small bended busbars. These small DIY busbars, (often called "flags" in Russia) are very useful to make a transfer between CB's or Fuseholder's terminals to large cross-section cable lugs, which orientation differs from CB's terminals. Exactly like yours situation with large battery breaker: I suppose to use such "soft" copper busbars in this configuration: 2 busbars per pole. Each of these busbars are bent from vertical (at CB's terminal) to horizontal, along CB's case. And this horizontal part can be used for cable connection. The same "soft" copper mini-busbars could be made for CB's in plastic distribution box. Also, there this an alternative to thin-wall copper ferrule. It is thick-wall tinned copper ferrule for connection 2 cables by crimping in the way, as crimping cable lug. Technically, it is the same, as cable lug's tube, where a cable core is crimped. But this tube is approx 2 times longer. If you crimp cable core in this type of thick-wall ferrule, it will be much stronger,

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for your feedback, Sergey. He too have this softer copper but it's usually been used for copper pipes and plumbing work.

Hi Andy I would get those solid square lugs and bend them but do it slowly 🐌 they will be ok

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

I would not bend them for this purpose. Might be ok, for a small project but not for such a power distribution.

For the plastic cover use a grinder it melts and cuts through it to avoid cracks. With the wires for the breakers maybe solder them and crimp it square without a lug? That will make the fit easier in the breakers and save a bit of money cause those lugs are pricey.

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

I think soldering is not allowed with breaker connections. It needs to be terminated correctly.

Hi Andy, noticed your 48 to 12v converter. Victron sells one that you can adjust voltage in and out. You can't adjust the one you have. If you have long wires out to your 12v application, voltage drop may be an issue

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

Great tip. I only saw the first page of their PDF and 9A was the max there... 2nd page looks promising though 💪

many great ideas here! I'll add an idea to the list. Heat, Anneal, Bend. Any of the 3 types of terminals you talked about could be used in this way. The heat should eliminate the cracking of the lugs.

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

The heat makes the material soft. Even after cooling down again...

For the J box, I would look at different types to suit better. or just mount a din rail only for the breakers with a clear perspec cut out cover over the front that has long screws back to the din rail.

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

I thought about building a little switchboard inside the shelf for this purpose. That's a lot of mechanical work and material though. This small switchboard does already fit perfectly. Almost...

You can make your own lugs with copper tubing you can use a flaring tool on one end to put the wire in and cut it about a half inch long crimp it straight to the wire and stick it in your breaker and your wire will bend easily to go out the back

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks, that could work...

i had to bend a few lugs for my car, the flat part on a vice and heat gun to make the cooper a bit softer. Hammer to bend the lug tapping slowly on the crimped part and i does not look too bad. Can't see any cracks but yes it's not as good as a already bent lug...

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

I need to think about the power going through it and the risks associated with that. I'll see what I can get...

Hi Andy, them MCCB's look like they can be rear connected. Pop out the nut retainer at the back and you can fit round copper spacers.

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

Never seen that, I'll have a look. Thanks.

Those breakers can accept fork terminals (between the screw and the cable connection). You can cut te lug to a fork.

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

I looked at this, there is not much room though for thicker copper terminals.

make your own case out of acrylic ? cheap plastic sides back etc ? then you control the variables .. rather than change all the other constants.. only recreate the case to suit and use the guts as are .. ?! smiles .. 6 one half dozen of other . .great analysis ... loving it ..

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks Mike, I thought the switchboard has everything I need, DIN rail mount, front with cover and lid. Making one myself is a lot of work. I did this before when I was working in a switchboard company. They had proper machines to cut, bend and drill though.

Get a small blow torch from Bunnings and heat and bend the lugs. Copper is a soft metal so this should be easy.

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

No, no, no, you don't do that in power distribution.

If I'm following you correctly, It looks like when you cut the top of the box to move it out more, you made an even sharper bend for the cable. Hope you saw that.

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

Yes, I saw this. I have cut the beam of the shelve now.

70mm2 cable is only slightly larger than 2/0 AWG cable (67.4mm2). You may be able to get 70mm cable into right angle crimp lugs made for 2/0 AWG

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

I tried that before and this 'slightly' larger/smaller is the problem. It just not the same....

@jimm7165

2 жыл бұрын

@@OffGridGarageAustralia oh damn. That just sucks

Andy for the plastic cut outs use a hot knife or hotwire.

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

Nooo, totally wrong. I'll show you how to drill and cut Acrylic in one of the next videos. Heat is the total wrong method. 😉

modify the plastic box to allow wire to enter the beakers straight on

Sorry if I arrive late, but I have a solution, easy, quick and cheap: flat the section of the wire where needed. Put the wire vertical in the vise (if it has grooves inside, protect the plastic sleeve using steel sheet in between) with the lug just out. Press the vise and get the cross section of the wire flat instead round. This will let you to bend the wire with a much smaller radius in such area. I hope this helps you. Best regards from Madrid, Jose

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks Jose. The problem with this is though that the terminal of the breakers are square, not flat. I would not be able to fit a flat cable into the terminal any more.

Just take a scrap piece of copper and your saw. Then you build your own, L-shaped DIY 90 ° angle to connect the cable to the switch disconnector. And of course you have to drill a hole at each end. But drilling in copper is a lot of fun for you, as I saw in the last video ... lol

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

Great idea! I did this before when I worked for the switchboard company. Just didn't cross my mind. Thanks!

How about using copper pipes and forming them to the shape you need? There are also videos on how to diy tint them after you have them in the shape you need.

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

A 90° coper pipe bend, one side flat the other round... Good thinking.

You should never have asked for ideas 🙂. Something unrelated, but you should move the 300A Noark breaker switch a little bit lower (middle of switch inline with shelf plate), have the vertical bus bars end a little bit lower too (near the top of the shelf space below), then cable from the bus bar in from the bottom of the switch, and out the top to the horizontal bus bar. Cabling would've been easier. Hindsight 20/20 right?

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

I cannot move the breaker any more. That train has left the station... But there were some good suggestions here, so I can make it work perfectly fine...

@TrevorFraserAU

2 жыл бұрын

@@OffGridGarageAustralia I realised that at the time of my suggestion but thought I would be that guy that stick to hindsight 😃. I am where you were 6 months ago so at least it helps me or others also early on the journey.

to drill without cracks must use these drills.plate milling cutter or step drill

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

Noooo, I'll show you in one of the next videos how to do it. I'm the professional Acrylic cutter and driller now 😁

Hello Andy the circuit breakers that you are using have a slot above the cable entry for ring tongue terminal to be used, may require slotting of lug to make it work.

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

yeah, very thin 6mm fork terminals. Would not trust them for 63A.

Loving your German,Aussie, English again. 'Bended' is not a word. Once you bend something it is 'bent'....but hey you made me smile and my German is as bad as my Aussie! Regarding your problems drilling acrylic - did you consider using polycarbonate? It is cheaper and very easy to drill. It is not so UV resistant but I doubt you will be leaving your battery outside sunbathing very much!

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

Danke Herr Lehrer! I've got all parts in Acrylic now, so will stick with that. I think about another material for the next project.

Skip the terminal lugs and ferrules and install stripped wire directly into circuit breaker connections.

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

Big no no with this fine stranded copper cable.

@mfgxl

2 жыл бұрын

I agree 100% with you Greg

@mfgxl

2 жыл бұрын

@@OffGridGarageAustralia Andy, You need to do a video on why you think that. 80% of us aren't on board with this thinking

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

@@mfgxl the reason is that not all strands of the cable will have sufficient contact with the breaker terminal. You basically squish the cable flat and have the pressure on the top and bottom. Strands at the side may not have any connect at all or very little only. You can only do this if you have multi stranded cooper cable with a very few thick cores or a building cable with one single core. Then you don't need a terminal or lug.

@gregb1714

2 жыл бұрын

@@OffGridGarageAustralia ???? The same reasoning would apply to using ferrules/lugs. Are you saying that 4AWG/25mm2 cables have different current ratings depending on the number/thickness of the wire construction? Using a ferrule, it may not even contact the sides of the breaker terminal resulting in less breaker terminal contact area. 'Squishing' increases the contact surface area. The only reason you have different construction for a given cable thickness is varying the cable flexibility/bend radius. Circuit breaker manufacturers only specify the cable gage to be used and the tightening torque of the breaker terminals. I have not seen any manufacturers specify the type of wire cable construction to be used.

*Account Approved* _Minimum order QTY: 25KG_

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

Still hasn't been approved but I found a viewer who's got a friend who has an account 😉

I am sure that the top shelf should not be made of plastic, but of non-flammable material. From above it can be covered with an insulator. Also non-flammable. For example fiberglass.

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

The shelf is not made out of plastic. The Acrylic is just an insulator.

Plexiglas bohren oder Sägen bohren mit einem stumpfen oder hinterschliffenen Bohrer er muss nur schmelzen danach mit der eisensäge zum Loch Sägen mit dem Dremel oder fine (fibrationssäge) geht es auch Grüsse aus der Schweiz

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

Danke Dir. Braucht man alles nicht. Hab 2 Videos geschaut, die zeigen wie man in Acryl bohrt, sagt, fraest... alles ganz einfach mit normalem Werkzeug, wenn man weiss wie. Das Video kommt ;)

Instead of a bent lug on the breaker, do a short bus bar vertical to the height you need, then the cable horizontal. One extra connection.

Have s few spat and wait for Inspiration. In case this does not work, restart this process at the beginning

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

🍻

I would lay the box horizontal then it is straight shot for the top of the breaker..... The bottom could then use those 90 degree angels...... Then use a mirror angled if you need to see the breakers...... It's not like you will be switching things off and on alot once it's up and running

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

The breakers need to be accessible from the outside though.

I would simply re-clock the breaker to facilitate wiring easier , than to find all these special ring lugs, that's just me. I think your making harder than it needs to be..

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

Re-clock in terms of turning them 90°? That's just not possible any more now...

Addendum to the below script: Though the use of flexible Si cables are much preferred; in certain circumstances Viz: the short Positive and Negative cables from the main shut down switch, to the Bus bars, may not be suitable, esthetically. The remedy? The use of rigid stranded cable or like in high power switching boxes, sold thick Cu wire (flat even) is recommended. Does the main shutdown switch terminals have 6mm threads for 6mm bolts? The solid Cu cable can be bent nicely, as you did to connect power to VICTRON Phoenix Inverter. My thoughts. 73s…

Use 30mm of bus bar on the switch to extend the connection

Lost wax casting. Make up copper or brass lugs any way you want by the dozen. 3d printer can set up the first mold pattern for you.

@mfgxl

2 жыл бұрын

Lyfan... You rock with this idea. Wanna go into business?

The old school answer would be to strip the cable end, bend the end any direction you desire, and tin the wire with solder.

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

That would be an absolute no no for these cables and power going through it. You will have only minimal contact areas to the breaker terminals. That will get hot quickly...

Black ferrules look like a better solution of the two. The other ones might have a chance of losing up , and could contact each other.

111521/1551h PST 🇺🇸 111621/0951h Brisbane 🇦🇺 Good day, Andy. I see your predicament on fitting the Circuit Breaker Box. You are, anyway, fitting frontal Aluminium facia, why not fix the CB box eternally on the Al sheet? That way you don’t have to cut the plastic to accommodate the CB box inside or avoid cutting the Al sheet to accommodate the CB switch aperture or no need to hunt for the alluring angled ring terminal. It might, even, look good, esthetically. My thoughts. I know, this is tough to design things like that, mind boggling, even. Take care und 73s…

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

I have cut the beam of the shelf now and let the box intact. Looks great. Video is coming 😉

instead of making a cover for you buzz bars just put them in heat shrink and use power cable lug caps for the lugs (Telstra has use this in telephone exchanges for a very long time).

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

This would leave parts of the bar and all bolts unprotected though. I bought the heat shrink for the bars already but didn't like the idea to hide these beautiful bars.

@paultalbot9629

2 жыл бұрын

@@OffGridGarageAustralia well you could also use electrical insulation paint and paint then after connections are made this can look good to also add to the anti corrosive factor.

have you considered using indium foil in between the lugs and busbars it is a very soft conductive metal and would help to make better contact on connections throughout the entire system

Hello from the high desert of New Mexico USA 🇺🇸. Hi Andy what do you think about soldering then bend the cable 90 degrees. Keep up the good work and stay safe and charged

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

Hello James, thanks for your comment. Soldering is a big no no because you literally decrease the contact area from the terminal to the cable to 2 points only when tightening the screw at the breaker. That could cause a lot of heat at these small contact areas.

How to make an arbitrary bend lug when nobody wants to sell them to you for a remotely reasonable price: 1) get standard lugs 2) cut the tab off using whatever method you prefer 3) TIG-weld it back together using copper filler at whatever angle, shape and length you need 4) cover exposed parts with shrink tubing of appropriate color.

@nicholaskeur

2 жыл бұрын

Ive just bent the normal lugs in a vise, not normally an issue with good quality lugs

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

I'm sure everyone has got a TIG welder and copper filler at home, right? 😉

@teardowndan5364

2 жыл бұрын

@@OffGridGarageAustralia Find/make a friend who does when you don't :D

Do a temperature check on the ferrel into the breaker. I’ve noticed high temps in breakers

Can you fabricate from a solid copper bar a bent cable lug?

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

No, I don't think so. I could have used a straight bus bar link to extend the terminal as others have suggested. I've got a different solution though...

Could your big breaker be mounted sideways? That is a very small plastic enclosure for big cables. I personally would consider mounting the din rail without a box.

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

Not any more. That train has left... The DIN rail would need to be accessible from the outside though so I would ending up building a box anyway around this DIN rail.

Andy this is overcomplicated....try to get used electrical closet from some factory ....😜👍🖖🍻

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

How boring would that be though? It's like buying ready built batteries?

Why not have a bolt and nut on your lugs to have the 90 degree angle, you could make them square and cover them in plastic dip for isolation.

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

I don't think this is allowed. It would work but I would like to stick with approved material as much as possible.

Andy, ask the online lug company to send you some free samples which you will show on your KZread channel.

Try a brass bolt on the lug to get a 90° bend

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

You cannot use a brass bolt to be connected to the terminal of a breaker.

@michaelallison7759

2 жыл бұрын

@@OffGridGarageAustralia why not, put the bolt through the eye of the terminal, install a nut then use the end of the bolt like a piece of stripped cable

Buy a 13mm/15mm copper pipe, smash a 5CM piece flat, and build an angled extension for your lug? To make it angled? Just my $0.02

Andy, why are you trying to go out the back of the box with all the circuit breakers? Looks like there are already ready-made punch-out holes in the top of that box, meaning your wire would come out of the top of the breaker at maybe a 45 degree angle, rather than ~90 like you're trying to do.

hallo, wie wäre es mit einem klemmblock (dahinter) und angeschlossen mit 1x25 Quadrat(aderendhülsen) und 1x10 quadrat "automaten brücken"? sorry for my unabality to write this correct in english (: (because i do not know how "klemmblock" is translated.) best wishes and thank you for your EXTREMLY helpful videos! Good luck!

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

Ein Klemmblock is ein kurzes Stueck Sammelschiene mit zwei Loechern? Oder was meinst du damit?

✌

Why are you using 35mm² cables while using 63A breakers? Shouldn't fit a 16mm² for that? Greetings from Duisburg

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

The incoming cable is coming from a 250A busbar to the breaker with 35mm. After the breaker I can go smaller depending on the breaker size.

What if you insert the cable into the lug, bend the cable somewhat and then crimp? Might help with the sharp bend you need to make out of the big breaker...

Instead of hardwiring everything, why not connect everything using WiFi?

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

I could also charge the car from the shelf directly. Brilliant idea 😂

Was checking out those Quickcable Magna elbow lugs. Seems they are common in the US and Canada (where the company is located). But prices around 10 to 20$ each is insane. Write them a email. May be you get a sample for your project. 😃

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

It seems they have AWG wire size only though which would not fit my 70mm2 cable....

Don't cut the breaker box to fit, cut the frame. Think about access for wires. Or surface mount it, and use gland and duct. Its an opinion!

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

Yeah, OK, would be an option. If I surface mount the box the cables will come form the back, so no glands required.

Victron Linx Distributor

@OffGridGarageAustralia

2 жыл бұрын

Would not help at all as I can perfectly connect the cables to the busbars but not to the breakers. You don't use fuses but isolators which disconnect pos and neg in case of a fault.