Hallo Jason, thanks for your information and video. I cleaned my CCT yesterday, it worked super. I have to adjust the valves a little bit stronger, a little noisy, but NO RATTLE of the CCT!!!Drive fast and carfully, see you, CP....CBR 1000F, 1989, SC24, 73000 km....Northern Germany

@jasonputtock4428

5 жыл бұрын

you are very welcome kind sir.

Jason, you're da man! I love the CBR1000F so much that my current steed is a '95 model after having owned an '89 some years ago, and I had some other bikes in between. Yeah, the ONLY thing I can fault on these bikes is the CCT. I've had your video saved for about 8 months now and finally plucked up the courage to do mine. I took it out but was disappointed that it wasn’t stuck and I could move the lever arm by hand. It was sliding up and down quite nicely so I thought I was wasting my time. But I went through the process anyway, forced the oil out, bathed it in petrol, squeezed it up and down until it was empty and clean. Put it back in the engine in the compressed position just like you said, ran some oil down and pumped it back up. Closed the engine, plugged the spark plugs back in, holding my breath for an anxious test, and …… SWEET! All rattling noises gone. Just took it for a run and I’m no longer embarrassed as I ride out of my street with a cold rattly engine. No more bucket o’nails. And yeah, my bike loves me for it. :)

@jasonputtock4428

6 жыл бұрын

Thank you so much for the comment. I am very happy to hear the positive outcome. Not sure if I mentined it but this is one part that is LEFT out of the servicing jobs. Why you ask. Cause it costs way to much moneyand time to do. So they all sadlt rattle. I would recommend doing this job every 12K miles if possible. Please ensure you use Locktight stick GLUE on your bolts when refitting. Never assume those bolts will remain in place. Recheck those bolts just under a 1K miles please for extra piece of mind. Happy and great SAFE riding friend. :)....

@nelaco1

4 жыл бұрын

Hi Fred, is this fix still holding up? I am about to do it on mine, but it has 40k miles so I am not sure if I should just get a new CCT & chain.

Jason, you should advertise this video!!! I wish I found this video few months back, my bike is atm disassembled and changing almost every bigger part. CCT, the chain it self, the oil rings. Of course the oil rings were THE biggest issue, but IF I knew this, I would not buy new chain and CCT, even that the rattling was very noisy. But eventually I will fix the bike to be as thee day it came out of the factory.

@jasonputtock4428

7 жыл бұрын

Alot of people know about this video. Just people do not truely look for it. However yes you are right. :) thank you.

Amazing, thank you. My 94 cbr thanks you :D

Thanks for the whole story. ;-) I wouldn't have dropped oil on it again and pump and again untill it got stiffer. Thought it would do it by itself. But now i will and hope it will do the job, on my new CCT.

@jasonputtock4428

9 жыл бұрын

always best to do it yourself, can you assure the oil will get to the cct.? I will not take chances. I pump to full pressure after install thern rotate engine by hand to see if any lock ups or binds occur.

great video thanks for sharing my cam chain has rattled for ages been realy annoying altho the bike still rides fine . so i bought a blackbird , now iv seen ya vid hopefully be able 2 clean cct on my cbr 1000f nice 1 jason

@jasonputtock4428

8 жыл бұрын

+shanekelly78 there is another video on part of this subject. you are very welcome

Erick thank you for your comment lets hope you fix your bike soon.

I got my bik cheap.I only paid 1800 euro about £1300. The bike does a rattle so i am going to have ago at this job next week . It looked a little scary but you have helped so much. I might just change the chain at the same time a restart if you know what i mead. Happy new year bang on bro 👍👍👍👍My bike has 54000 ks on it so i bet its never been looked at .

@jasonputtock4428

7 ай бұрын

I would Advice strongly not to do the chain unless it is required. There is a small Oring that is no discontinued. It part of the oil system and if the oring is damaged you might not be able to replace the oring if damaged. I think its part of the oil PICKUP tube area. IRC.

I did this and it was super clean, I also fitted a new cam chain and it still sounds like marbles in a tin can

@jasonputtock4428

9 ай бұрын

I assume you PREprimed the tensioner. Did you even change the tension guide bars.?

Super vid Thanks mate

@jasonputtock4428

4 жыл бұрын

you're more than welcome. These items are neglected during routine services and can fail alot. By ways of means of the clanging chain.

7:30-10:45 is the useful part of this video.

Thanks Jason. Very reassuring to learn this 26 years after my initial CBR1000F ownership. Now I have another FL - this one at only 4,400 miles, I was actually wondering when I will need to concern myself with this modification, like the first one. But now I learn it's just a cleaning thing, my entire outlook on this is changed. However, may I suggest one thing to help extend that 10k-20k cleaning service interval? How about trying Silkolene Pro-4 Race oil in your CBR1000F? I have used this stuff for over 35 years on ALL my bikes and not only does the stuff seem to smooth out the running of the engine, it improves power and restores that engine ''newness' feeling. The FULLY SYNTHETIC Pro-4 stays cleaner for a very long time by comparison to every other oil. Over the years you should hear all the negative crap (as well as the positive) so called professionals say about why you shouldn't use Pro-4, like... It's too good!!!. It's too slippery for some gearboxes that work more smoothly when there's more friction (ie for the GSXR1000). Some of the rubbish they spout is painful to listen to! Anyway, thanks man, I wish I had known this on my first FL - I would have done it immediately myself. When I had my camchain replaced by Tony Galea Camchains - another star in his own toilet - about 22 years ago - the bike had the exact same rattle.

@jasonputtock4428

6 жыл бұрын

oddly enough I have started to use sikolene itself especially for suspension. Yes they are very good. I have been using them for about 3 years now with very good results. Thank you for your input.

@PedroPlckle

5 жыл бұрын

Cool. Thanks, Jason :-)

the tensioner is in the middle of the engine. please watch my other videos.

Tensioner can be diverted for RC42. Look through so you can solve problems. I have been using.

Great information thank you

@jasonputtock4428

Жыл бұрын

Very welcome

ill try it on my vt250 spada

Great video. Thanks. I had plans for changing my CCT this coming winther, but now I'll try to just clean it. But what did you call that tool for the valve adjustment? Where can I get one?

@jasonputtock4428

6 жыл бұрын

you can only get it from honda itself. they are fairly cheap. I call it a valve nut spanner. most likely incorrect about it but hey thats me all round. :P

indeed the little holes that provide oil to the piston get obturated and the system then lacks oil and becomes loose however there were 2 models of tensioner the early one had a shorter cylinder with less travel, this would soon reach full travel and then become useless mine a 90 model came with this and i changed it and the chain to the later version and have no issues since the later one has double the travel and should , if clean last the life of the chain there is a guy in Amsterdam holland who offers a kit to upgrade the tensioner with an additional pressure screw ans spring that forces the piston down, however you need to be careful not to overcook the preload the other misery on the cbr is that the chain is in the middle and is not supposed to be split to remove it and you need a special splitter to do so you can buy a pre split chain with quick link but you need to be real carful not to loose the connection to the old chain when dragging it through or you are good for a stripdown…

@jasonputtock4428

2 ай бұрын

yes are very right.

great video, thanks. from what I understand, no need to buy a new tensor, just clean well that is like new? I think is one of the ideas that you place? thanks Jason

@jasonputtock4428

7 жыл бұрын

Yes it was. Hope it helps...

In the manual it actually tells you to take the tensioner off and fill the bucket of fresh oil as a test to see if the plunger is healthy. If it is then it will essentially hydrolock when atempting to move fast which by the sounds of it is how yours was when you took it out. People fail to read on after this where it says to drain the oil out before reinstall. Filling with oil is purely a test for the health of the tensioner itself by the sounds of it bur should be fitted and left dry

@jasonputtock4428

2 жыл бұрын

My tensioner was stuck not hydro locked, it required Petrol to disolve the old gum of oil and WD40 to remove unwanted moisture. Yes I am aware of that statement like many other claimed motor mechanic books. First you have to empty the chamber to clean it out, it not part of a test. It is to clean it of old oil which is NOT part of the annual service, furthermore the chamber cannot self replenish the old oil by draining itself. This is what you have failed to mention like many garages also fail to do. Hence why their are many failures of these parts. Regular maintenance will cure the rattle. On major exceptions will the chain need to be replaced along with the guides. Since I have had the engine apart, I only replaced the Chain. The rattle disappeared. Cleaned both units, tested for full extension. Inserted all back together dry and pre-charged the piston chamber right before i started the engine. The end result was fantastic, a very responsive engine with new piston rings - rehoned bores - new chain - recycled tensioner (Cleaned). You do NOT leave it dry and start the bike, this is NOT recommended. Why, because it will cause unnecessary wear to the piston chamber. When the tensioner is in place and secured with THREAD lock medium strength. You flex the piston chamber by hand where access allows, whilst filling the piston chamber with the same grade oil. It will stiffen up as normal and tension perfectly. Then you can start the bike. Other wise you will get chain slap inside the engine because it is NOT tensioned correctly. I like metal where it is supposed to be and not in the bottom of the engine. I thank you very kindly for pointing out some good facts thank you. Just know that the garage DO NOT practice this method, I was merely explaining what to look for during the video.

@DaMuShErZ

2 жыл бұрын

@@jasonputtock4428 I appreciate the detailed explanation, best I've heard so far haha i am no trained mechanic myself but have done plenty diy work on my bikes. I have a 91 fm too which has just recently started rattling when cold but then does dissappear after a few minutes of riding. Hence what brings me to your video as I've been doing as much research as possible before i start the dismantling. Its done 36k miles so you reckon just a good thorough clean of the tensioner and recharge as you say whilst ignoring the manual to some degree will sort this? Reading it from haynes manual it did seem slightly odd to me to not fill the bucket with oil because you essentially have what is a spring and damper to maintain tension and reduce bounce back or slap. May have to give that a go then thank you very much 👍. May of just saved me £80 on a new chain 🤣.

@jasonputtock4428

2 жыл бұрын

@@DaMuShErZ Ah now I understand where you are coming from. 36k miles/KMs would suggest that the tensioner needs a service. Should you even put this lovely bike into HONDA, they would never take it out. Main reason - Should they drop the bolt into the engine, it is almost impossible to extract it out should this happen. It would require paitents and a strong magne to pick it up should it wedge itself if dropped. It is easily done. No you dont need to change the chain. Most cars like BMW MERCEDES AND i do believe AUDI use chain drive systems. Reading their information about services on a chain is normally around the 120k mark upto 200k mark and in some case never. Yes the guides can become damaged but mostly is the arm sticking in one place. The chamber itself does not self clean, self lubricate if its full of old OIL. Removing the tensioner is the best option. Through cleaning of it and inserting it dry is the way to go. Only, you MSUT pre prime the chamber AFTER installation. Keepflexing it until it becomes stiff or heavy resistance. Once that is achieved seal it up. I CANNOT stress enough the IMPORTANCE to use LockThread medium strength. NOT PERMENANT. If 1 of those 4 bolts unwind you are FUBAR. This WILL SNAP your chain, lock up the rear wheel if you are luck enough. If you are unlucky the pistons will hit your valves. This bike was very lucky to lock up on the rear wheel. Only damage was that bolt and the chain replacement. It was shear luck that the valves had opened to a certain amount to miss collision with the pistons. In overal context. remove tensioner and clean it then use WD40 to ensure mositure removal, empty it out and reinsert to the bike, bolt down, then drop some oil into the chamber hole and prime it. Good luck and becareful...

@jasonputtock4428

2 жыл бұрын

@@DaMuShErZ I want to advise you now before its too late. Please overhaul your carbs system and fuel lines. Anything rubber delivering your fuel system. Why you may ask. Well, the governments GLOBALLY are now changing the fuels itself with regards to Unleaded. They are increasing the ethanol amount. instead of it being E5 based. They are set to increase it to E10. You fuel float needle rubber may suffer for this. Also, you have added a INLINE fuel filter. Make sure it is metal and not PLASTIC. E5- E10 will corrupt the plastic and with will LOSE its shape. Experiment yourself with ethanol on plastic. The plastic gets hot and SOFT. Therefore, the fuel passing through plastic will become restricted due to ethoanol and plastic incompatability issues and MELT. Please consider overhauling your fuel system now before its too late. This new grade of fuel will affect all motorised transports prior to the age of 2002. In some rare case may go back as far as 1992. Rubber and plastic are not a good mix for E5-10 grade unleaded fuels. If you do decide to do this overhaul - ask the seller if they are rated for E10 grade fuel.

@DaMuShErZ

2 жыл бұрын

@@jasonputtock4428 Thank you very much mate will be sure to give that a go and see the outcome 🤞. Its overdue a valve clearance check anyway so i'll do it all in its next service. I approached Honda a couple years back for some work and they actually refused the work 🤣, said they don't feel comfortable working on such an old bike aha i said thats fine with me if you don't feel confident then i don't feel comfortable leaving it in your hands aha its good of them in a way to be honest and turn down the work though but yeah i do all work on the bikes now besides when fresh tyres are needed. With regards the recent fuel changes its only ever been ran on super unleaded all its life which is E5 usually 99 octane and thats still available at most garages by the side of the e10 shite so I'm safe for now but i do appreciate the heads up though and if for some reason they scrap the e5 all together which i doubt they'll do i'll definitely be making the changes you suggest before its ridden again. Going back to the timing chain rattle, would it not be an instant rattle when the bike is fired up and continuous for the whole time its running? See mine when i start it is smooth, quiet and responsive etc and i'll then ride for a couple minutes then the rattle begins then only last for about 2 minutes before it fades away back to quiet normal running. Just thinking maybe there's a possibility its something else 🤔. Hard to tell while riding especially with all the fairing on

your are correct. just remove old tensioner and reclean.... no need to buy chain the tensioner is just seized with old shitty oil.... 😊

@juanandrada6653

8 жыл бұрын

+jason puttock hello from sunny spain I have 5 cbr1000f 1990 exelent report on cct ,my first cbr had chain rattle I did not have tools too take out cct then I saw your video ,got me thinking ,,,,,,,,AND THIS WORKS ,I took off rocker cover and tried to move tensionar stuck solid ,,crap,so what I did was with a small endiscope looked down into were cct piston is and was all carboned up drained oil and with a wet vac sucked all the oil from the base of the cct ,I then filled it up with wd40 left it a few hours then with a screwdriver I could move it a little bit after overnight it is moving completely free now and tension is good engine now sounds sweet no more rattles ,I have done this on all of my bikes I know its not the best solution ,but it works ,mileage on my bikes are 50,60, thousand klms and they all had a cct rattle ,no more ,ok thanks again for your video if it was not for you I would have been out off pocket ,,thank you and regards juan

@jasonputtock4428

8 жыл бұрын

+juan andrada you are more than welcome my friend..... :) good luck for the future and best solid riding.... :)

@jasonputtock4428

7 жыл бұрын

Fantastic my friend. Happy ridding.. :)

@Pootshaak

6 жыл бұрын

+ juan andrada. Hi, I ride a 1991 cbr, it is a great bike, but it rattles (Changed the cct 2 years ago in a repair shop, sad that i didn't stumble on Jasons vid back then NB: Jason, super thanks to you!) The wet vac thing is a really great idea! Juan, do you have any pictures how you wet vacuumed the old oil out? What kind of wet vac it was? How did you approach the CCT oil chamber. And did you change the valve cover gascet?

@Cabrownslim

6 жыл бұрын

Juan, habla español? Encontré este video pero algunas cosas se me van por la barrera del idioma. Ayuda. Gracias :) (ojalá conteste porque este comentario ya tiene un año jajaja)

Where did you get your tappet adjuster . Thanks. 👍👍👍

@jasonputtock4428

7 ай бұрын

Honda directly.

Could you use an unltra sonic cleaner on this . Would it cause any damage. I have this problem with my 1000F ??????

@jasonputtock4428

7 ай бұрын

Yes but removing all solvent from inside the piston chamber of the tensioner may prove to be a problem. Always best to use WD40 for sticking plungers and then use oil to load up the chamber then on after.

Hi jason, Need to ask you something about cb1000 big one CCT whitch one i can use (CCT modified version) or (CCT orginal version)

@jasonputtock4428

6 жыл бұрын

you can use either. i prefer factory version more. If the CCT snaps on the modded your bike will not like you at all. the engine rebuild is very very costly. I know for a fact the 1 particular oring is no longer avalible. That part belongs to the oil fed pipe and it will tear up upon seperating the engine block. So therefore i would only use the factory cct.

@hopanonaee

6 жыл бұрын

jason puttock Thanks for your reply You're a good man 👍👍

Just gotta 88 cbr hurricane put around 5000 miles and have developed a small rattle. Do I think this is my problem?

@jasonputtock4428

6 жыл бұрын

try and find out where the rattle is the most loudest. Upload video and then i might be able to advise.

So your saying that you were neglecting to change your oil properly?

@jasonputtock4428

3 ай бұрын

nope. not me... I am saying this will be part of the service which noone does.

Hllo i have cbr 1000f from 1987 i cant locate the cct. usually its on the right side. but where is it located?

@jasonputtock4428

8 жыл бұрын

it's in the engine. please refer to my other videos. remove head cover where spark plugs are. it's inside there.

@briangreen11

8 жыл бұрын

+jason puttock where can i find the tensioner??

Hola. Se puede reparar o el tensor? O bastará con cambiar la cadena de tiempo.

@jasonputtock4428

2 жыл бұрын

Quite el tensor, límpielo con gasolina y luego wd40 - vuelva a colocarlo en la bicicleta. Atorníllelo con Lockthread de resistencia media. Pre-cebe el tensor con aceite, flexione el tensor. Entonces deberías estar bien.

try and find out where the rattle is the most loudest. Upload video and then i might be able to advise.

hard to find someone that works on old bikes I injoyed ride thew hurricane it needs some work I've been riding it for the hurricane 1000 three yrs time Chan tensioner n New shocks bodykit I really injoy the hurricane handouts need to bring a new one out in have it the fastest peaple ask me about it everywhere I go on it I'm missing riding hurricane 1000 Maybe old one thing it's sweet

@jasonputtock4428

7 ай бұрын

These bikes are great and found it old but oddly satisfying to ride over the blackbird 1100

I'll give you a free trick ,Fits automatic tensioner from Honda RC38 (750)

@jasonputtock4428

7 жыл бұрын

tell me. What purpose would it serve to use a RC38 to this bike.???? CBR1000F

@Dave.676

7 жыл бұрын

the end of the defective fluid damping :) (google trans)

actually you are way off the mark the issue with the cct of this type is that the piston and the cylinder wear out and there is no more hydraulic pressure / damping so the whole thing loosens up and rattles as the lobes go over the tappets the only way to fix this is to re chrome the barrel and piston so they are able to seal this is what i am doing now, then you have to re rivet the whole thing together

@jasonputtock4428

4 жыл бұрын

your wrong on this particular problem with regards to this CCT. 23 units later and they are still running strong. good luck in fixing your own item. Hopefully you have a good enough unit to use. The extention on this arm demonstrated is WITHOUT oil present. your assesment on this unit is in fact wrong. Their was no problem with the CCT, just full of shitty oil thick enough to look like marmite spread. Furthermore, the chain is the culprit not the lobes or tappets. It is called CHAIN SLAP. The chain slaps against the body work of the inside of the engine case. If you are going to trash what I have shown where the chain slap comes from and why. Atleast get some of the facts right. This was an oil issue not a piston. so good luck with your repairs. this problem is different from yours.

Que hable en español porque no lo entiendo

@jasonputtock4428

2 ай бұрын

Qué es lo que querías saber?

how many times..repeated the same thing!lol

@jasonputtock4428

7 ай бұрын

Here is the answer for you comment. It comes in form of a question. You own a VW fox 1.2 6v Heaven forbid this purchase. Anyways, You are driving the car no real noises just the taps are a little noisy. You find nothing wrong with the engine. The car is 4 years old and out of warranty. You owned the car for 1 year. A friend says the car is not sounding good. He asks - how long has it sounds like this. Being a 3 cylinder engine. He checks nothing but insists the engine does not sound good but you say everything okay. He arrives at your door 20kms away - asks to check your car and you allow him. He comes back after 2 mins inspection and says you have just screwed the engine. You ask him why so. He replies, well you have lost alot of oil. You both check. refill the engine of oil at the rate of 2 litres and installed a new oil filter. Your friend says to you, take the car into the garage and get them to refill the car of oil when they engine flush the engine and change the filtre even though you have already just done that. He also advises you to use synthetic blend @ 5-40w. He also ask to drop the oil pan and inspect the conrod bearings and cams bearings. He repeats this x2. Do you listen to him or ignore and just engine flush and refil oil.?