Pro tip with making those molds to avoid mold slip. Get the back end of a pen or pen cap. While the first part of the mold is soft press it in around the outside in two different spots creating a guide. Once you put the second half on top it'll create a guide so you get a decent cast each time. Also if you use 50/50 green stuff / milliput your part will be both carvable and sandable.

watching this my brain went "so much effort, at that point just buy the actual mini's". Then I remembered the price of GW kits nowadays and yeah... thanks for sharing!

@Zanzibrush

17 күн бұрын

ya I hear you. I'd rather just buy a kit if I wanted a whole unit or something, but for specialized bits or something you only get a couple of I think it's pretty cool. Thanks for watching!

Cool video. There’s something exciting about producing some extra bits and those rats look neat. Two quick tips. Green stuff and milliput can be mixed to get a cross between the properties of both. Should help with those more brittle parts. Secondly, if you have some LEGO lying about, you can make a frame to push the oyumaru into. I’ve found that helps because you can really apply some pressure.

@Zanzibrush

19 күн бұрын

Thanks! ya I bet the lego frame and the green stuff blend would be really nice.

If you use enough material to form a block, you should try pushing the back of a painting brush into the first half around the model to make divets. Once you add the hot material for the second half of the mold, those holes are filled. Those sunken and raised paint brush details help you align the mold time and again. They also prevent mold slippage when applying pressure to reduce the amount of excess pancake from between the two halves. Happy hobbying! 🐁🐀

@Zanzibrush

20 күн бұрын

Great comment, thanks for watching!

I'm addition to adding registration marks as @germannightmare1976 said, you can also use Legos/megablocks to make a small square bed and a "press" that fits that using some of the flat topped Legos. This can be helpful for getting a good fit and avoiding air bubbles. Also consider mixing some green stuff into your milliput or apoxie putty - it's more flexible and will help keep it from being so brittle. I like about 40% GS ... Mix both putties separately before mixing them together. Finally you might want to get some mold release agent!

@Zanzibrush

20 күн бұрын

Yeah I think a little lego frame would probably help a lot! I also ordered some green stuff in preparation for the video but the package got lost haha. oh well! thanks for watching!

3:38 "IT'S LOG, LOG, LOG!"

Nice work, lots of interesting stuff tried out here.

@Zanzibrush

18 күн бұрын

thanks! glad you enjoyed

I really like your work so I'm going to keep up to date with it

@Zanzibrush

10 күн бұрын

thanks, appreciate the support!

Before you put the mold hqlfs together put a wire (bent paperclip) on the tail or thin legs to reinforce it - your method is a great use if miliput ^_^

@Zanzibrush

10 күн бұрын

yeah I definitely thought about doing that haha, would really help strengthen them, Thanks for watching!

You could use old sprues and soak them in acetone, then use the "sprue goo" in the molds.

@Zanzibrush

18 күн бұрын

oh ya, that's a great suggestion. certainly have enough sprue lying around haha

Try mixing milliput green stuff and a tiny amount of Vaseline, if you use a mould box you can tighten the piece in a g clamp wile it sets.

@Zanzibrush

18 күн бұрын

that's cool, never heard of mixing them with vaseline

@willcollis4544

18 күн бұрын

@@Zanzibrush I found out a few weeks a go its great everything smooths better.

Nice video. Tried the same years ago. Always had a problem with the tails, so ended up casting them separately, gave a lot of variation in the end.

@Zanzibrush

19 күн бұрын

casting the tails separately seems pretty smart honestly, I also was tempted to try putting a small bit of wire in there

I find adding green stuff to the milliput adds flexibility but the casts aren't quite as sharp as pure milliput so works better on smooth items like armour or shields, for faces and fur more milliput is better, say 2/3rds milliput to 1/3rd green-stuff

@Zanzibrush

18 күн бұрын

ya good call! I think a little more flexibility would be great

I found the spelling in the description.

Also this stuff can be melted and remolded easily, don't feel like you have to be efficient about the amount you use! And if your cast comes out badly you can melt the mold and make a new one! If you use UV resin be aware that the heat of the reaction WILL deform the Oyumaru and you'll only be able to get 1 or 2 casts from it before you'll have to melt and make a new mold! And finally don't use a bowl you ever plan to eat out of to heat up the Oyumaru - Even if it isn't toxic in and of itself, there'll be residue from your putty/resin when you melt it the second time. I have a designated non-food-safe bowl, but you could also use a disposable coffee cup or something.

@Zanzibrush

19 күн бұрын

ya definitely! some good tips

I’ve been giving this a go myself, really struggling to get the two sides of the mold correctly aligned.

@Zanzibrush

20 күн бұрын

I found that having one half wrap around the other really helped with the alignment. You can see how at 05:35 I cut some of the material off to leave a flat section which allowed the other half to wrap over it … I think that you could even cut some more prominent notches into the side if you're struggling. I also know that some people take a paint brush handle and poke some divots / impressions into their first half which then creates a small "peg" sort of thing when the second half is pressed into it. This also helps with the alignment. Also the milliput / greenstuff would take a while to harden so you have some time to figure out the correct alignment and how to get a snug fit. Thanks for watching!

I’d be curious how liquid green stuff would turn out

@Zanzibrush

19 күн бұрын

ya that's really interesting actually. It does contract a lot so there might be problems, but still seems like a fun thing to try out, thanks for watching!