I have recently learned something about carbonating with a stone I thought I would share. I didn't really know of a concept called "wetting pressure". What this is, is the pressure it takes to get CO2 to start flowing through the carbonating stone. Blichmann, in their Quickcarb instructions, recommends setting your pressure 1-2lbs greater than the carbonating pressure. I suspect this is to account for this with their 10 micron stone. I hadn't really taken into account that my stone, which has 2 micron holes (smaller), needs more pressure to "wet". Having just learned this, I haven't checked what that is yet, but if you are having issues with your stone not flowing and your beer not carbonating this could be why. Figure out what the wetting pressure of your stone is by putting it into a bucket of water or Starsan and cranking up the CO2 pressure until it flows. Whatever this pressure is needs to be added to the carbonating pressure listed on the carbonating chart. I have read about people who have .5 micron stones having a wetting pressure of 4 lbs. I suspect that my 2 micron stone's pressure is around 3 lbs based on how my beers have been carbonating and watching the bubbles flow in the tubing. Again, I haven't calibrated it yet. I have also read that you should add 1 lb of pressure to account for the weight of the beer. So, if the carbonating chart says to set pressure at 9 lbs pressure for a 36 degree beer to reach 2.3 levels of CO2, and the wetting pressure is 4 lbs then you would set your quick carbonating CO2 pressure to 9 + 4 + 1 = 14 lbs of pressure. Once equilibrium is reached you should have perfectly carbonated beer. Let me know if you try this and it works for you.

Tim, just another fan wanting to say thanks for taking the time to provide so much info both in the video and comments.Much appreciated!

@TimTrabold

7 жыл бұрын

Thanks!

You, sir, are my hero.

After watching your video, I built one of these. It works excellent. Thank you so much for bringing this to us. Excellent instruction.

Excellent video! I just purchased all the parts and can't wait to do this. Thank you!

@TimTrabold

6 жыл бұрын

Good luck! Let us know how it goes. I just used mine for the 4th or 5th time a week or two back and think I have finally got the process down. I'll be using it again tonight on a Belgian Golden Strong.

I am so building it. Thank you!!!!

This is brilliant.

This is awesome. Thanks for sharing.

MMM Stout!!! AWESOME IDEA!!!

Excellent video!!! On my list of things to do.

thanks so much for the instructions. Need to build one.

@TimTrabold

5 жыл бұрын

You are very welcome. Thanks for the comments. Good luck.

wonderful job brother... :)

Very good!

Nice job. Not a setup I would use because my consumption is so small but the idea and execution is elegant.

@TimTrabold

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks!

nice job

Frank Hernandez - I have some ideas and thoughts, but I am not sure. Maybe the pump is either defective or in reverse. It should pump from the bev out into the gas in. The carbonation stone should be on the output side of the pump. Have you tried without any pressure? Is your pump rated for high pressure? It needs to push enough pressure to counteract the pressure from the CO2 tank and keep circulating. I believe my pump is rated at 100 lbs psi. Could the pump have become clogged from something in the beer? Hops? Have you taken the pump head apart? I once had a piece of thread from a cleaning towel get stuck in my pump. It did it not work right until I removed the pump head and found it.

Hey Tim - great video! I'm wanting to make something similar to dispense seltzer. Do you have any info on how long it takes to carbonate? I'm thinking of recirculating through a copper coil in a mini fridge to speed chill the water as it carbonates. Water would get topped up via a fill valve from the city water mains and I'd run the whole thing at a lower pressure than municipal water supply to avoid the need for an inlet pump, just the recirculating pump. Does that sound feasible? Also, does this thing work at all with just one pass or not so much? It would be cool if you could add chilled water and CO2 on one end and get seltzer out the other, but methinks that's a pipe dream... Thanks!

Do you think you could use a system like this for bottling? Instead of circulating back into the keg, send it to bottles or growlers? You'd want to use a variable speed controller to minimize the flow, but do you think something like this would allow bottling while maintaining a good amount of carb?

Using the big toe to turn on/off power was classic

Damnit, I wish I saw this before ordering the Blichmann QuickCarb, which I KNEW was overpriced. Thanks for the killer vid. I knew there was a DIY solution to this. I'm returning the Blichmann junk.

@TimTrabold

7 жыл бұрын

Check in the video's description/comments. I have listed sources and given links for pretty much everything you can't easily pick up at a big box store like Menards, Lowes or Home Depot.

@kingalthe1st160

7 жыл бұрын

Just wanted to add a further tip: for the CO2 connection, I used a stainless ball lock carbonation cap for quick hookup to my keg system: www.amazon.com/Stainless-Carbonation-Barb-Drink-Bottles/dp/B00V334SME/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498455598&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=ball+lock+carbonation+cap&psc=1

@TimTrabold

7 жыл бұрын

I just ordered one of those last week: www.ebay.com/itm/Homebrew-Stainless-Steel-Carbonation-Cap-Ball-Lock-Type-Fit-For-Soft-PET-Bottles/172732170275?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 This one is supposed to also fit crown cap bottles too (in addition to the standard 2 liter pop bottle).

@TimTrabold

7 жыл бұрын

It doesn't fit on crown bottles. The picture is deceiving. It does work great for counter-flow filling.

@kingalthe1st160

7 жыл бұрын

Tim Trabold I connect the barb to co2 line and then pop ball lock connection on.

It's a DIY blichmann quick carb......... Nice 😁

One more question, sorry, I got all my parts, pump just has wires coming off, I think I need to cut the cord from my power supply and wire it directly to the pump? Which wire it goes to won't matter, right? Also, it says don't use AC 120v power on the pump...did yours say the same?

Could this also be a solution to carbonate soda water? Rotarex offers a commercial solution, the bubble box, that uses this principle but I am not sure whether it is any good. What do you think?

Thanks for this video! What kind of pump you bought?

@TimTrabold

6 жыл бұрын

The pump is a self priming pump. There are links to all the parts in the comments. I tried to copy them here, but they wouldn't copy. It has been a while, so, they might not be good any more:

Your nose whistle makes for some great ASMR

You build a very good inline carbonation device! Would you please update the link for the aeration stone fitting? Right now, it is the same as the pump.

@TimTrabold

7 жыл бұрын

That is really weird. I cut and pasted them from the individual pages. Anyway, I got them from a different method and they should now be working.

Hello ! Thank you for this awesome video !! I already bought the pump and the tee with the carbonation stone... I'm missing just a couple of things (hoses). I have a question... I see that you sanitize with starsan before using the system... specifically about the pump after use, should I disassembly the pump for a thorough cleaning? or just running thru PBW dissolved in lukewarm water is enough? Thank you again for helping us saving $120 !!!

@TimTrabold

7 жыл бұрын

I have only used it a couple times so far, but I ran hot soapy water through it both before and after use, then clear water. I do think I may need to take the head apart because it is not really self priming any more. I may need to put some keg lube on the diaphragm.

@beerman1957

7 жыл бұрын

Saul, I built a device much like the one in the video. I only run Star San before and after each iteration. There really is no way to disassemble the pump. You only need to take the hoses off and allow it to dry. The reason I don't use PBW is because the beer is already cold and there seems to be very little residue after I carbonate. I always run the Star San at the beginning and that allows a wet-test of the system, which is what you want to do anyway. At the end of the carb process I run clean water through the device, then Star San final rinse for about 5 minutes. I then remove the hoses because I found water was staying inside the hoses and that could harbor some odd smelling stuff in it. Last recommendation is to take the entire Tee assembly apart every 3-4 uses just to make sure it is getting clean. So far, I like the device. Thanks to Tim for the idea.

@TimTrabold

7 жыл бұрын

I did decide to disassemble the pump to see why it wasn't self-priming any more. I did find some threads in the diaphragm that must have come off the washcloth I had in my sink while I was running soapy water through it. It did help, some. I let the vendor know there was a problem. They asked me to try a couple things and since they didn't work well, they sent me a replacement pump. Pretty good customer service. To disassemble the pump assembly you have to loosen the strap holding it to the motor. It then slides forward. Then there are 5 screws each on the top and bottom. Once these are removed you can take the pump assembly apart. There are covers on the top and bottom. The diaphragms have rubber caps covering them which need to be carefully pried off. Under these are some springs and spinning gear like things inside. You need to remember the orientation of these because opposite ones sit higher and lower. You must also be careful not to loose the little parts, they are small. I took the top and bottom covers off and cleaned everything real well and put it back together. As I said, it did work better, but still not as well as I expected it to work.

love it my next project great idea wot flow rate is the pump i see its 12 volt i think i was thinking of use a solar pump with speed controler

@TimTrabold

6 жыл бұрын

I don't think that most solar pumps are self priming. The ones I have used have an impeller to move the liquid. They may not build up enough flow pressure to move the beer around. The one I use and the B brand are diaphragm pumps and self prime. You might have a hard time getting the flow started and getting all of the oxygen out of the hoses too.

Hi Tim! Thanks a lot for this video! You know? every single video about "quick carbonation" is in a 5 Gal keg, I'm wondering if there's any possible way to home carbonate a 1/2 barrel?

@TimTrabold

4 жыл бұрын

I don't know why you couldn't use the same set up a. As long as you had enough gas and time it would work. It would probably take a while for that much beer but once it reaches equilibrium its carbonated.

Thanks for this video. This will be my next beer project. Have you co tuned to use yours? Any upgrade recommendations since you last posted this video?

@TimTrabold

5 жыл бұрын

The biggest thing I have learned is to take into account the "wetting pressure" of the carbing stone. That is the initial pressure needed to get CO2 flowing through it. You need to add this to the carbonation pressure from the charts to get the proper carb level. In my case i need to add 4 lbs to whatever the chart says. If the chart says 10 lbs CO2 pressure will give me a 2.3 carb level with 36 degree wort then I have to set the pressure to 14 lbs to get there. I tested this in water before I put it in the T fitting.

@fiable1931

5 жыл бұрын

Thank you for putting this together.

1) Do you think I could use the magnetic drive non-self priming wort pump I already have on hand? Is the pump you used food safe? The eBay listing didn't really say.

@TimTrabold

7 жыл бұрын

You could try, but I don't know if there would be enough pressure to counteract the pressure needed for the carbonation. When I increase CO2 pressure I can hear the pump change. I assume it has to work harder under higher pressure.

@bartekh2755

Жыл бұрын

did You try with regular beer pump, not self priming?

This is a few years old now...Are you still using this process? Is it worth it for a mere 5 gallon corney keg? Seems like you're exposing your beer to a long trip, through a lot of fittings and hoses, all of which are contamination risks. One of the things I try to do with home brew, is minimize the amount of dissolved sanitizer that ends up in the beer. Distance through hoses in my system are minimized until serving, but I'm always willing to learn. "About an hour" seems like a pretty vague measure. The more I read the more I learn that specific styles, require specific carbonation levels (vols). But most Americans only like it one way - highly carbonated and cold. Even if that means it's wrong for the style... Have you determined a way to measure and move from "about an hour" to either a specific carbonation level, or a specific gas flow rate for a pre determined time to hit those target vol levels accurately? JMHO but it seems as if many home brew techniques, involve a lot of these "interesting" steps. I find that if I just brew 3 times in a short period of a few weeks, that I can't possibly consume or even give away enough of the first batch, to get into the third batch before it has had enough time to naturally complete fermentation, lager and be fermented by traditional means or a few days on gas. Really just wondering if you've stuck with this technique?

I built a system exactly like yours, however I seen detectable Co2 in the return line after just a few minutes. I am carbing at about 14 PSI. Seems when the keg equalizes pressure, it stops carbing.

@TimTrabold

7 жыл бұрын

Did you run it for a while to see if it carbed up? When I run it I defiantly see bubbles initially but they do slow down after a while. In my video I was running it at a much higher pressure than needed and you can really see them. I would go ahead and run it for 30-40 minutes and check the carbonation, then run it until it reaches the level you want (an hour total should be plenty). The CO2 still should be infusing if you saw it going initially. You just might not be able to see it as easily after it gets going. You do need to run it at a couple pounds higher pressure than the carb chart says (according to "Bl.."). I think this might be a case of RDWHAHB.

@TimTrabold

6 жыл бұрын

Just curious, have you tried it again? Has it been working for you?

Just watched your video its great, just like to ask one question does it matter where you put the aeration stone ?

@TimTrabold

6 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the nice comment. In the ones I have seen, i.e the Blichman Quick Carb, the design has it on the side port of the "T" fitting so CO2 is picked up as the beer passes and it is after pump. I suppose you could put it anywhere, as long as the beer passes it to pick up and infuse the gas. It would probably still work on the end port, although I don;t know if it would be as efficient.

@Jeanclaude001

6 жыл бұрын

ok I will give it a go thanks for the info

How has the new power supply been holding up? Any problems?

@TimTrabold

7 жыл бұрын

I just carbed the first keg last night with the new power supply. It worked well and didn't fail. I created a part 2 video. I should be posting it soon.

well did it work?

Hi from Perú. Amazing job! But I've a question... Do I need to release the pressure of the keg sometime ?

@TimTrabold

7 жыл бұрын

That depends. If it is too highly carbonated you could let pressure off and it will gradually become less carbonated as more is released. When you move the keg to your kegerator or keezer, if you have more than one keg on your CO2 line you may need to release the pressure so that it is less than that of your other kegs. Otherwise, it may increase the overall pressure of all your beers and if it is real full it may back flow into the air line. Once you have the keg set up for serving you can leave it on the CO2 indefinitely.

@jimlewis9824

3 жыл бұрын

Get a water supply pump. Most are made for 12v potable water. If it's all plastic, which most cheap pumps are, it should be fine.

great advice fellow brewer. Any tips to use this with sanke kegs?

@TimTrabold

7 жыл бұрын

I would think the principals would be the same. Bleed the keg, put the liquid out to the input of the pump and the gas in to the output after the carbonation stone. It should work the same.

@TimTrabold

6 жыл бұрын

I was watching a video review of the Blichman Quick Carb by Great Fermentations. Towards the end, at about 24 minutes, they show it being used to carb a Sanke keg. It looked like they built some hose adapters to attach the hose nuts on the Sanke inputs/outputs. kzread.info/dash/bejne/nGZpmrePaNDImrA.html

@matthewtorbik8949

6 жыл бұрын

Since I use both Sanke and Corny kegs, there are pressure fittings that go from sanke to 1/4" compression fittings. I use them on my d couplers. www.amazon.com/Homebrew-Conversion-DISCONNECTS-INCLUDED-Kegconnection/dp/B01924W0OI/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1518031975&sr=8-7&keywords=homebrew+to+sanke

Hello Tim, do you think that a 1 gpm/35 psi pump will work?

@TimTrabold

6 жыл бұрын

It probably would, as long as it is self priming. The only way to find out for sure is to test it. You might find that you need a stronger pump to counteract the amount of system pressure from the gas. I think my pump may start to strain, a little, if the CO2 pressure is high. But, the 10-12 lbs. of pressure you will use shouldn't be too much. The pump I use isn't to overly expensive if you need to get one (around $16 US).

Have you tried to daisy chain multiple kegs together? I would presume that if it took 1 hour to do a single keg, it would take 2 hours for 2 kegs?

@TimTrabold

7 жыл бұрын

I have never done this so I wouldn't know if it would work. I do think it would be harder to bleed them and all the hoses before starting.

@jimlewis9824

3 жыл бұрын

I've done two kegs, but not yet three. I always carbonate for a longer time, often overnight, just because of my schedule, so I don't know about minimum times. It will carobnate to equilibrium, overcarbing isn't an issue. If you feel you are overcarbonated (a factor of temperature and pressure, per the chart he cites, which is a simple google away from you). bleed off some pressure. You have to overpressurize to get where you want to go, technically due to the wetting pressure of the stone (how much pressure it takes to squeeze the CO2 through the sintered metal), so it's more a question of taste. When you get it the way you like it, write down the pressure and temperature and adjust as needed if/ when your stone clogs.

What are those disconnects you have on your manifold for the CO2?

@TimTrabold

7 жыл бұрын

They are standard air hose quick connects (Mechanical I think) that I bought at Menards (they were on a clearance table at the time). I am not sure I totally recommend them, although they have worked fine. I think these are relatively high end and don't leak. I have a valve in line in front of them and have shut it off and pulled the hose a couple days later and there was still pressure. That said, I have similar ones on my air compressor, from Harbor Freight. The compressor has a hose that is always plugged in, and it cycles every couple days. I can only think those cheap ones leak. I have heard people say that they used these types quick connects on their keezers only to find their CO2 tank empty after a day. If you use them, I would recommend turning the tank valve off when not in use.

@ 9:25 you indicate that you used 1/4" barbed fittings on the T instead of 3/8". Could you tell me what size hosing you are using on each part? I was assuming 5/16 ID line everywhere but that wouldn't fit on a 1/4" barb.

@TimTrabold

7 жыл бұрын

I listed the tubing sizes I used and what it was for in the parts list in the description / comments. The aeration stone had a smaller barb, so I used 3/16" beverage tubing (I still had to heat the tube in the video to make it stretch easily). The other threaded fittings on the "T" were 1/4" and on the pump were 5/16" I did use 5/16" tubing on the 1/4" barbed pipe fittings. It is snug enough to fit and clamp because of the barbs and it also stretched enough to fit the pump too. I did double check the size markings on the tubing before I put it in the description just to be sure. I noted it on the video because I started out with 3/8" barbed fittings, which are in the pre-assembled pictures, but I ended up using 1/4" fittings when I assembled it (luckily I bought both to be safe)

@TimTrabold

7 жыл бұрын

One additional thing I should mention. I have on order from e-bay some 1/2"MIP x 5/16" barbed fittings. If they work with the beer hoses, I plan on replacing the brass 1/2"MIP x 1/4" barbed fittings when they arrive.

Hi Tim, This is going to be my next project once the brew shop re-opens after the Christmas break😂 Sorry to be a pain, but where do l find the charts you used to establish carbonation pressures and time? Are you just using a standard forced carbonation chart or is there one for in line carbonaters? Cheers!

@TimTrabold

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks for watching. I just use the standard carbonating charts you will find online in a lot of places. They will tell you what pressure will give you a certain carbonation level at a specific temperature. The key to using the carbonator is to make sure you add the wetting pressure of your carbonation stone to that pressure. The wetting pressure is the base pressure threshold needed needed to push CO2 through the stone. My stone takes about 3-4 lbs of pressure to get started. To find this out I put it in some water and turned the valve up until I saw bubbles flow. So, I add 4 lbs to the recommendation from the carbonation chart. Good luck with your build. .

@benlyne5599

4 жыл бұрын

@@TimTrabold thank you mate. I remember your wetting mention on the video. I added 2psi but found it was a little light. Next time l use it l will try 4psi. Thanks again for your video. My unit worked well. Cheers!

For God's sake, chain that high-pressure gas cylinder to an immovable object. If it should fall over and the valve breaks while it is pressurized to 3000 psi, it will make a rocket that can penetrate a cinder block wall. Basic welding class skills.

@TimTrabold

3 жыл бұрын

Good thought.

Did you carbonate a 1/2 barrel sankey keg with this device, some say that take too long to do so.

@TimTrabold

4 жыл бұрын

I have not. I don't know why you couldn't. It would probably take a couple hours or more.

Is there any reason you couldn't use a chugger pump for this if you already have one on hand?

@TimTrabold

7 жыл бұрын

You could try. I have Chugger pump too that I use for most of my brewing needs (Wort Transfer/RIMS/ Chilling, etc). I decided to buy this one because it is able to pump at a higher pressure (100psi) and it is self priming. I am not sure how much back pressure the Chugger can handle from the CO2 (although the CO2 is only going to be set at 10-15lbs) and I wasn't sure how I would prime it. At $16.50 plus a power supply it wasn't that expensive and I can dedicate it to the carbonator.

Tim, do you pressurize the keg at all?

@TimTrabold

3 жыл бұрын

I just purge the keg normally 10-15 times. Once you start carbonation you set the pressure of the CO2 to be at the carbonation level you want (based on one of the many online charts) plus the wetting level of the stone you are using (the amount of pressure needed to get CO2 flowing through the stone). So, if it takes 4lbs pressure to start pushing CO2 through the stone and the carbonation chart says it takes 9lbs pressure on the keg to reach the proper carbonation level at the beer's current temperature, you would set the tank pressure to 4lbs+9lbs=13lbs to carbonate the beer. Thanks for watching.

I figured out why it was over carbonated. I have a Harbor Freight CO2 gauge. It has two scales. One goes from 0-45 and the other 0-100. I checked the pressure with another air gauge in series and realized I was using the wrong gauge scale. What I thought was 15 lbs was actually 30. I should have been using the inside scale instead of the outside scale.

Would you happen to know why my beer is backing up through the carb stone line and into my regulator at 10psi?

@TimTrabold

6 жыл бұрын

I would guess that the pressure is not high enough to push liquid through your stone. If liquid was backing up into your stone then something must be sucking it up or pushing it from the other direction. If you have pressure on the stone line then the beer should not be coming the other way. If this is happening when you are first starting then it is possible the pressure in your keg is higher than the pressure on your regulator. Make sure that you bleed all pressure off of the keg before you hook everything up and that will probably fix the issue. The pressure on the system will equalize and beer should not be coming back the other direction as long as you have your pump on. Also, you might check the return line into your keg and make sure there's nothing clogging it. Are all of your lines the same diameter? If they are not the same diameter you might be pumping at a higher pressure than it is sucking from the other direction and there might be back pressure on your airline. I'm just guessing I hope it helps.

@TimTrabold

5 жыл бұрын

Sorry I just saw this. I hope you figured it out. I imagine it is just a matter of increasing your pressure. Your carb stone has what is called a "wetting pressure". This is the amount of pressure needed to push CO2 through it to get it going. This amount of pressure needs to be added to the pressure needed to carbonate. So if the carb chart says 10lbs will carbonate atthe volume you want and your stone takes 4lbs to get it started you would carb at 14 (I am making up these numbers).

Have you noticed any off flavors with the pump? Just curious how food grade it is.

@TimTrabold

7 жыл бұрын

I can't say if it is truly "Food Grade". The pump parts are all hard injection molded plastic, but I don't know for sure what kind is used. I haven't noticed any off flavors, at all. I am assuming that after running Soap and Water and StarSan through it for now well over an hour that anything that could have leached out that would be touching the liquid is long gone.

@DanielJAudette

Жыл бұрын

That pump looks similar to my water pump fir my rv

I purchased the pump and power supply through the posted links but I have no idea how to do the wiring. Any advice?

@TimTrabold

7 жыл бұрын

B Rad it should be pretty straightforward. The power supply output has a positive and a negative wire. You will probably have to cut off whatever socket they have on the end or plug. Just figure out which one is positive and negative by touching them to the wires on the pump. chances are the red wire on the pump will be positive and the other wire will be negative. The same thing holds true on the power supply. If you have a volt ohm meter you can check the power supply voltage and figure out which is positive or negative with that. Otherwise, you have a 50-50 chance. It won't hurt anything if you're wrong for a second or two.

@brad1184

7 жыл бұрын

Thank you. Sounds simple enough

@lancerupert3578

7 жыл бұрын

I just received the power supply that is linked in the description. I cut off the end, and there is a Blue and Brown wire. Which is positive, and which is negative?

@TimTrabold

7 жыл бұрын

I believe that in international wiring the brown is positive and blue negative (which corresponds to Red/Positive and Black/Negative in US wiring). You could touch the power supply wires to the motor quickly and see which way turns the pump in the correct direction. But, if you do, only do it for a second. I Googled and found the following at: www.allaboutcircuits.com/textbook/reference/chpt-2/wiring-color-codes/ Function label Color Protective earth PE green-yellow 2-wire unearthed DC Power System Positive L+ brown Negative L- grey 2-wire earthed DC Power System Positive (of a negative earthed) circuit L+ brown Negative (of a negative earthed) circuit M blue Positive (of a positive earthed) circuit M blue Negative (of a positive earthed) circuit L- grey 3-wire earthed DC Power System Positive L+ brown Mid-wire M blue Negative L- grey

@lancerupert3578

7 жыл бұрын

Thanks Tim. I was looking at the Blichman quick carb system at this years Homebrew Con, and knew this could be a DIY project. I am building this system now, and very much appreciate all the links you provided as well. I see some local K.C stickers you have (Boulevard, etc). Thanks from K.C!

Tim, I'm about to source the parts for this. Do you know if they make a male end for the swivel nut to attach to? I have a gas line coming off my splitter in my keezer that already has a swivel nut on it for my blichman beer gun. It'd be nice to just have a male end to hose adapter so I could screw my existing swivel nut on whenever I want to quick carb.

@tjans1979

3 жыл бұрын

Otherwise, maybe a male-to-male adapter would work...

@tjans1979

3 жыл бұрын

I think I found one...www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F8YZ1G1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

@TimTrabold

3 жыл бұрын

@@tjans1979 that would work I have a couple I picked up at Menards. 1/4" flared M/M connectors in their misc fittings area of plumbing. They go for a little over $1.49 www.menards.com/main/plumbing/pipe-fittings/brass-fittings/sioux-chief-flare-union/0122094/p-1444442653238.htm I am sure any big box home store has them. I use the same pump as a line cleaner for kegs and tie the lines together with them and the taps with a special tap connector hose I got off of Amazon. I plan on doing a video of it soon. Thanks for watching.

@tjans1979

3 жыл бұрын

Menards? You a wisconsin guy too?

@TimTrabold

3 жыл бұрын

@@tjans1979 Omaha. We have had Menards here for at least 25 years though. I live 12 minutes from two different ones. Menards is my goto home store. I probably average $100 a month there. I have a Lowes about 8 minutes away, they are #2, I try to stay away from Home Depot, but one is also 10 minutes away.

This is ventury effect...used generally now in etp aeration system for bio degradation

@TimTrabold

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for watching!

Does the stone come with the fitting for the tee? Anyone have a link to that particular stone?

@TimTrabold

5 жыл бұрын

The links in the video description will take you to both the Stone (with the 1/2" fitting attached) and the SS "T".

@stgeorge143

5 жыл бұрын

Thank you sir!!

Do you know what gauge wire the pump is using?

@TimTrabold

6 жыл бұрын

Not specifically, but I would guess 20 or possibly 24 gauge given that it is only 12 volts DC.

Any links for the pump?

@TimTrabold

7 жыл бұрын

Links to all the parts I used are in the video description / comments. Let me know if they at not working.

Never use brass or copper for carbonating. Use stainless steel or plastic especially if carbonating water. But I see a lot of stainless in beer equipment. Not too much brass

@TimTrabold

3 жыл бұрын

Agreed, although I am not that concerned on my scale. But, FWIW, I have swapped the brass out since I did the video. Thanks for the comments.

That guage isn't in psi, it's in lpm or cut hours. I believe that's going to be a decent difference in numbers.

@TimTrabold

6 жыл бұрын

Actually, based on my experience and some testing, the inside numbers are equivalent to PSI. I had read that before, on other forums and did some research when I bought it. Others have said that flow rate is really a function of the pressure and that the printing is incorrect. The manual talks about flow. Anyway, I tested it when I first bought it a couple years back, then again when I got the over carbonating to verify which numbers I should use. I put an air gauge in series with it and measured the pressures. I found that the inside numbers corresponded to pressure gauge, exactly. Out of curiosity, I just contacted Harbor Freight. We will see what they have to say. The bottom line is that it works well and was $20-30 less expensive than other gauges. For my backup tank, it works OK. My Keezer has a tank with a standard gauge and 3 gauge manifold.

@TimTrabold

6 жыл бұрын

I sent an customer service e-mail to HFT about the gauge markings. The documentation and they also say that the tank gauge measures the bottle pressure and the output gauge is a measure of flow rate. Well, as I said I put an air gauge with PSI markings in front of it. The pressure numbers corresponded to the inside "flow" numbers all the way up the scale. Go Figure. Anyway I still use it and it seems to work pretty well for 2/3 the cost of most beer regulators, although I did just see a 4 star rated one on Amazon for $41.

@ProgressXray

6 жыл бұрын

Tim Trabold what one is that?

@TimTrabold

6 жыл бұрын

Here is a link to the Harbor Freight page: www.harborfreight.com/regulator-gauge-94841.html Be aware that it is set up initially as an argon regulator. You will need to change the stem to a CO2 stem (included). Make sure you check for leaks. I would put a ball valve in front of it. FYI, I have recently changed it out for an actual beer regulator (I got one off Craigslist). Also I found one on Amazon for $34.99 with the ball valve/checkvalve included. I would probably go with it: www.amazon.com/dp/B06XPHGC8K/ref=asc_df_B06XPHGC8K5307620/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B06XPHGC8K&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198106240524&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16613364277701962848&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9024578&hvtargid=pla-350193768709I

All that video and you didn't show the pour!?

@TimTrabold

7 жыл бұрын

I thought about that after I put it together and decided it wasn't worth the effort to re-edit (it was 1:00 a.m.). :)

@TimTrabold

7 жыл бұрын

I just filmed a "Part 2" I didn't forget the pour this time (it was a little over carbonated) :)

@TimTrabold

7 жыл бұрын

I figured out why it was over carbonated. I have a Harbor Freight CO2 gauge. It has two scales. One goes from 0-45 and the other 0-100. I checked the pressure with another air gauge in series and realized I was using the wrong gauge scale. What I thought was 15 lbs was actually 30. I should have been using the inside scale instead of the outside scale.

Gluten allergies right there