The work you do is so appreciated. And it will be for years to come. It’s so good to finally see how to convert an 05-09 R/T to a 6.4L without fully swapping everything out of a scat pack.

So clad you are dooing this😂 just got my 6.1 engine blown up last year and im dooing the exactly the same thing! I have 75mm turbo. Love your channel keep it up!

I just had the MMX drop-ins and Fore Innovations fuel system installed in my 392. You'll be very pleased with this combo. I also deleted MDS and did a custom grind cam by MMX. You're going to exceed 650rwhp.

Nice to see the Magnum getting a fresh build Skyman 👍

I'm with you, it's the uniqueness of the project that I like. I like how you have approached it. I think the 6.4 is going to be awesome in it.

@ReignitedAuto

5 ай бұрын

Thanks Tom! 👊

Just finished up a supercharged 5.7 build myself, looking forward to this build. We are running the same Melling high volume pump. It is working great on cold start we see 90Psi oil pressure. We have also used the ARP cylinder head bolts on each of our builds, they are great, but agree that they are pricey.

Great build video! I've been running a 2.3L TVS blower on my 392 since 45k miles. I am now at 90k miles my internals are bone stock and I am running 6lbs of boost tuned by Hemifever. I run dead nuts even with bone stock Hellcats (Non Redeye). I do plan on doing the Mahale and Manley drop in's at some point probably with a custom blower cam and up the boost. But the way it is now it's been a rock solid, fun engine. One note on the 6.4 rods, they aren't just powder metal like the 5.7 rods. The 6.4 Rods are "Sinter Forged" they take the green metal part and partially sinter it then they beat it in a massive forge press similar to how old school forged rods were done. They are quite a bit stronger than regular powdered metal rods, but probably not as strong as an old school forging.

@ChevyTwins

4 ай бұрын

I just got a challenger with a 2.8 kennebell with about 7psi peak. Also has long tubes and full exhaust. I have been babying it after reading about boost killing stock internals. I am installing a wide bin and will likely get it returned. Hopefully it lasts a little while like yours.

@IhateYoutube

4 ай бұрын

@@ChevyTwins 7PSI is 100% fine on a 6.4 as long as the tuning is good. Bad tuning can blow any engine from any manufacturer. The more boost you run the more cylinder heat you create and once the temps get too high the rings collide and that's when the tops of the pistons come off. But 6-7 pounds on an intercooled supercharger with solid tuning has no issues. Anything above that is a crap shoot.

Love the extended videos and man those parts looked purrrty. A few tips that might help the viewers (Please let me know if I'm wrong with any of these though). (These are not criticisms at all, just things I like to do that seem to help me) 1. The rear main seal gets put on dry. Not oiled like you may want to. 2. When using plastigage you want to make sure not to rotate the part at all, once torqued down, otherwise the "smear" will get wider, which will fool you into thinking you have a tighter tolerance. 3. When I gapped my rings, I used a handle, and for the first one I did, I counted the number of turns as I "snuck up" on the gap I wanted. Granted everything is different for each ring, but the point is, if I used 100 turns to get it where I wanted, instead of rotating it 10, re-measuring, and so forth on the remaining pistons, instead I would do 70 or so turns to get me closer, and then start measuring. If using a drill with a fixed speed, I'm guessing you could time it instead and do the same thing. 4. Not sure if the aftermarket pistons are the same as stock, but not only do you need to get the connecting rod facing the direction you want relative to the block, but some pistons are not symmetrical with regards to an offset for the wrist pin. So most pistons have a dot or arrow on the top that points to the front of the block. So when assembling your rods to your pistons, you should check both :) 5. I like to measure everything and record it in an engine build book. That way, if you're using a junkyard block/used parts like me, and something comes up later on, you can look back and say "Oh yeah cyl #3 had a bigger piston ring gap, so it's probably the one with more blowby". Or, if nothing else if you sell the engine, it makes for a nice set of records for the new owner. 6. When I put the pistons and rods into the engine, I like to rotate the block so the top of the block is completely vertical so when I drop the rod down into the cylinder, it doesn't want to drag on the side of the cylinder (And it equally wants to drop right into the crank if you also rotate the crank to TDC for the piston you are installing. I agree on the ARP stuff, it is too expensive. I like to use the cheaper chinese knock offs, which have been tested for LS engines, and is honestly no stronger than stock. However, they are not torque to yield, so you can re-use them. It would be nice if someone came out with a set of knock offs that are still decent and about half price. I like to see the differences between the LS and the Hemi. The LS has more durable rods and pistons, but the head bolts and main studs are really small and course-threaded compared to the much more stout Hemi stuff. The 3rd gen LS reluctor ring is a press fit which stinks, because not only do you have to heat it up to pull it off and swap out a new one, but you also don't really have a reliable way to clock it.

@joshreynolds729

5 ай бұрын

Good info man 👍🏻. Question? Why not lube the rear main?

@The3chordwonder

5 ай бұрын

@@joshreynolds729 I'll be honest, I don't know why other than the service manuals and the gasket manufacturers want them installed dry. I'm not sure if it wears in kind of like rings, or if the silicon is impregnated with a dry lubricant like graphite. I know the LS rear main gasket includes a plastic disc that "eases" it onto the rear of the crank. I think they worry about it getting ripped or torn on a burr. I can't remember if my '08 Hemi had that plastic thing when I rebuilt it a few years ago.

@joshreynolds729

5 ай бұрын

@@The3chordwonder thank you that’s what I figured was the case with it but worth asking all the same. Thank you.

Don't sleep on the stock 5.7 crank; plenty of guys making well pass 1000hp with a stock crank; and I know a guy who runs them in blower motors making 1500+ hp

@ReignitedAuto

5 ай бұрын

I definitely think they are up to the challenge, but it was just one less thing to have to think about. Plus it's a great excuse to up the displacement 😄

@FlatPlaneCranky

5 ай бұрын

@@ReignitedAutogood call.

@captainboose8788

5 ай бұрын

@@ReignitedAuto Forsure 👍

@the_car_guy5915

5 ай бұрын

Right? I'm doing a 5.0 build for my '54 Ford F100 and it's getting all forged internals right now. I don't care if it only makes 500hp. Lol​@@ReignitedAuto

Excellent video, love the detailed assembly!

Great video! I really like how you address concerns and questions about your builds. 😊

The circlip getting launched into orbit is a real thing. Safety squints in full effect 😅

@ReignitedAuto

5 ай бұрын

😖😄

Great video again really enjoyed watching you. Do the work you make it look easy. I know it’s not easy. Good to see the neon still alive even though it’s buried with snow.

@ReignitedAuto

5 ай бұрын

She's at the body shop right now getting the rear bumper fixed up, then it's back to being the daily! 👍

Really appreciate your thorough explanations on what you are doing and why. So knowledgeable. Great job and very excited for this!

Love this! Great info!

Omg Sky. I can already hear it humming.

Great video brother! Can’t wait till you get it together and testing it out!

@ReignitedAuto

5 ай бұрын

Appreciate it my man! 👍

Beautiful, im looking to do a Dodge Ram 1500 1000hp build, so this video is perfect. Thanks again

Soooo sweet, love it 👍😁

Should be a pretty fun build! 💪

I just ordered the Wiseco ring compressor tool for my Coyote project. I had one for my 5.7 Hemi/300C project and loved it.

Perfect circle piston rings are the best

MMX is the G.O.A.T. website. Their 5.7 stroker windage tray was such a huge win.

I was stoked to watch this video when I saw the alert pop up. Had to finish laundry and put the baby down for a nap first. 😄😄

@ReignitedAuto

5 ай бұрын

I've been there!

Little bit snowy out there, the neon needs some tracks!

@ReignitedAuto

5 ай бұрын

Now that would be an interesting project! 🤔

When you are the goto company offering a product you can price it however you want, and people pay it just as you did. If you had searched there is a company Point One (US made) that has a gen 3 head stud kit, 190,00 psi, for $350 through Brian Tooley Racing. One of these days you will receive a set of bearings that are incorrectly boxed and then you will check everything from there on.

Looking forward to this video series.

@ReignitedAuto

5 ай бұрын

💪

Circlips are fun! Hear that distinct "ping!" and hope you hear where it lands. When I was building my BMW V8 I lost one, looked for a long time and never found it. Had to get a replacement. Found it months later when I was cleaning 😅

@ReignitedAuto

5 ай бұрын

😂 classic scenario!

Very nice 🔥

Great to see reassembly going on the Magnum. Going to be nice to hear it run again and what you get out of it when you get it tuned and dyno'd. Nice to see you getting snow finally. How is the Neon handling the daily drive in the snow? Keep up the great work!

@ReignitedAuto

5 ай бұрын

The neon works great in the snow! Light car and a set of studs, much prefer driving it versus my truck which is just too heavy!

There are way cheaper options for head studs. The ones I’m using are supporting 1745hp. I’d use ARP if not for the price.

Sky its going to one bad mamba jamba love it

@ReignitedAuto

5 ай бұрын

Appreciate it my man! Just don't want to blow it up again, too expensive this time! 😂

I LOVE the step by step approach in your video to this build!!! Keep that going all the way through installation. I love seeing this come together!

@ReignitedAuto

5 ай бұрын

More to come!

Keep in mind powdered metal rods are actually strong as hell and nothing actually wrong with them. For your application though, yes the Hbeam is definitely a stronger choice

sweet video. i didnt know you were also a lumberjack on the weekends.

Sir clips are not to bad...wait till you have a piston with 3 spirolocks in each side... finger cutting fun.

The reason ARP fasteners are so pricey is due to the wear on tooling that is the result of the material the fasteners are made of. High nickel alloy such as their 625 plus offering as an example, requires hard turning and tool inserts live a very short life before having to be replaced. If you're spending $150 on inserts to make a set of bolts or studs, you have to pass that cost on to the customer or you'll be out of business in a hurry. Just sharing some insight as people outside of the manufacturing industry honestly don't realize what costs are incurred behind making high quality parts. Cheers!

@ReignitedAuto

5 ай бұрын

Appreciate the insight! 👍

@budlanctot3060

5 ай бұрын

I thought the threads are rolled in, not cut with a single point cutting tool. It's the rolling process that makes the threads stronger.

@strykerentllc

5 ай бұрын

@@budlanctot3060 The reference on their site can be found under the 8740 alloy on thread rolling. The manufacturing process still requires turning.

Nice! I'm pretty jealous of your shop

@ReignitedAuto

5 ай бұрын

It's always been a dream of mine to have something like this, still can't believe I do sometimes 🤝

@nanperry1064

5 ай бұрын

@@ReignitedAuto But Sky don’t you miss the first shop you built? 😂 The 21 window will just squeeze into it. 😳

@ReignitedAuto

5 ай бұрын

@nanperry1064 I just saw some pictures of that a couple days ago! Very nostalgic 😢

You happen to have a video of doing the same to a 6.1 rebuilding my 06 jeep engine at the moment

Its just a ScatPack brother.... Remember that :) Cant wait to see her go!

@ReignitedAuto

5 ай бұрын

It still won't be as fast as your car that's for sure! But it should be much better than it was 👍

@octanejimmy

5 ай бұрын

@@ReignitedAuto I take some timing out for you...

I'm an old school engine builder, never got into the new technology but lovin' it all. I want to thank you for using the correct term of "Foot Pounds" and not pound feet, every time I hear that, it like finger nails on a chalkboard.

Hopefully you are going with 2618 pistons

@ReignitedAuto

5 ай бұрын

Just double checked on the site and yes these are 2618

By adding different rods, pistons, etc. to what appears to be an absolutely stock non polished crank...are you concerned about balancing issues at all?

@ReignitedAuto

5 ай бұрын

According to the MMX website for this drop in forged kit: "These will match factory specs for balance and will not require any balancing" 👍

@Rickgyver001

4 ай бұрын

@@ReignitedAuto I had the same thought about the balance. I am more of a trust but verify guy since I don't have the funds or time to redo. I am right with you on the unique part of your build. I usually spend 5 times the time and effort throwing more money at it to have my projects a one off by me. I am thinking you will make your HP goals for sure. Looking forward to seeing it back on the road again. At the rate you are going you may be done before the snow is melted.

In you opinion do you think a pre eagle 5.7l hemi block can handle a 3.957" bore. Looking into building a stroker engine an im wondering how far the 5.7l csn be bored. I know it can be bored 3.947" safely so id assume 3.957" would be safe as well

Always use Ross pistons

Being that you did not mention it what is your thinking regarding the balancing of the crank/rod/piston assembly? Are these cranks balanced separately from the rods/pistons? Did your kit come as a balanced set?

@ReignitedAuto

5 ай бұрын

Direct from the MMX website: "These will match factory specs for balance and will not require any balancing(therefore no crank removal" 👍

Quick question: I have a 5.7 hemi I upgraded cam to the 6.4 cam . I replaced timing tensioner, chain and upgraded the oil pump now I'm getting code p0016 but the car is running good any idea why ?

Are the truck BGE blocks the same as the scat pack blocks?

I can't believe you put the wrist pins in dry

@ReignitedAuto

2 ай бұрын

They actually come pre oiled interestingly enough.

My 6.1 hemi on its 3rf rebuild now gets stiff to turn by hand when the main caps are torqued I cannot foe the life of me figure out why. I've checked everything. Just got it all back from machine shop and still same thing. Could my block be twisted?

Hi mate , I have a 2013 chrysler 6.4 Lifter froze up chewing the cam .. Can you tell me if this is a straight forward procedure replacing cam lifters non mds non mds cam and using tuner to switch off mds Can you tell me what part number cam I will need to be able to use Thanks

Lots of people got wrong info from his past videos

I dropped a valve seat. It didn't get destroyed yet. It did kiss the piston a little. But I think the head can be repaired and get it back on the road. What should I do while I'm in there? If the time isn't right for upgrades. Should I just get it driving or upgrade the other head at the same time and delete the MDS? On the cheap too, because I already spent too much money getting this engine back on the road and I am almost tapped out. Hence the reason its not ready for upgrades. I just need it for its original reason as a winter car with power.

@joshreynolds729

5 ай бұрын

Well if ones dropped, the head needs to be repaired but the others seem okay why mess with them especially if it’s on the other head. I believe hhp or mmx has a kit for it with everything you need I want to say I say it. However you’re gonna send the head out to be fixed just have them put it in and or advise you based on the damages they find. That’s my advice but I’m no master Ase mopar mechanic I’m just some dude who does his own work at home 😂 so take it for what it’s worth. Should be enough info to get you to a subject matter expert who is willing to give you the exact info you’re looking for. Hope that helps some, take it easy.

I'm not saying they aren't overpriced but, if you knew the manufacturing process and equipment for those arp studs vs common hardware it might make a little more sense. There's more engineering than yu may expect in choosing the right type of steel, how much larger they may or may not be able to make the hardware, and the tooling for making those studs since there's certainly a lot of different lengths diameters and theead pitches. On top of that arp isn't cranking out millions of these like common hardware so it costs a little more per piece than a huge volumn common bolt producer.

👍👍👍👍👍 I got to ask why not the 6.1 l

@ReignitedAuto

5 ай бұрын

It's just my opinion but I feel like the 6.4 is better in every way. Not to mention people are asking ridiculous money for 6.1 engines right now!

Whats the PN for the stock bearings? and the PN on the MMX kit - thanks.

@ReignitedAuto

5 ай бұрын

6.4 drop in forged kit: MMP-64FPRP2618 I'll have to get back to you on the main bearing part numbers.

2013 crysler srt8 392 and hellcat 6.2 the same ?

2017 srt block, what accessories drive are you running to move the alternator up top ? Here in Australia for Jeep swapping a 6.4 in we really only the truck engine available and even second hand there $$$$ over the Lx option available?

@ReignitedAuto

4 ай бұрын

I've got a really strange setup on this engine. I'm running a 2022 ram 1500 e-torque timing cover. The reason for this is I wanted the 8-rib crank pulley. I'm using an alternator from a 2017 Cummins 2500, and the stock power steering pump with a Cummins pulley on it. All this allowed me to use the stock 8 rib supercharger pulley. 👍

@SPRcluley

4 ай бұрын

Did you have todo any modifications to the timing cover or was it a direct fit ? I’m just curious and trying to find more options to save $$ on my build I’m currently acquiring and deciding towards the Holley mid mount gen 3 cover but here in Aus it’s near 5-6k for the kit

@ReignitedAuto

4 ай бұрын

@SPRcluley ya the aftermarket options are crazy expensive. Good news though, the timing covers will interchange between all models of the Hemi. 5.7, 6.4, 6.2 they will all bolt up no problem. Two things to keep in mind, it needs to be a 2009 or newer timing cover, and whichever timing cover you get make sure you buy the matching accessories (crank pulley, p/s pump, alternator, ect). The only one I would say not to buy is the 2010-2011 challenger timing cover, it's a weird one off that mounts the accessories slightly tighter than the others. Hope that helps!

@SPRcluley

4 ай бұрын

Oh that’s awesome to know, also you’re an absolute legend thanks for your time in getting back to me! This is my first attempt at an engine build and your video’s have been a gold mine 👌🏻

I gotta question for you. Can I switch the rotary knob to a column shifter in a Ram 2500 2021? It's a trade man with a 64 hemmy. Thank you

@ReignitedAuto

5 ай бұрын

Negative, two completely different transmissions.

Is it ok not to balance crankshat for the new pistons and rods?

@ReignitedAuto

5 ай бұрын

According to the website for MMX: "These will match factory specs for balance and will not require any balancing" 👍

So if you have vvt you obviously want to keep it and the only reason people install the limiter is so they can run more lift. Is there a way around this to install a big cam in a 6.2 or would the magic number be restricted to about 600 lift or less. Unless I do a phaser limiter or lock or change out the pistons like you did with larger reliefs so I have more piston clearance for the bigger cam in order to retain my vvt allowing nasty low end tq and nasty high end hp? Why sacrifice if the tech is given is my train of thought. Does anyone know where or who has a cam like this or at least point me in the right direction? thanks.

so now using the 6.4 block are you still using the old ecm or do you have to use a new one ?

@captainboose8788

5 ай бұрын

Old crank wheel so the old PCM will run it.

@ReignitedAuto

5 ай бұрын

Yep, he's got it, old trigger wheel so stock PCM still. 👍

Do you think it was worth blowing it up twice before going forged? Was it so you didn't blow up this motor while experimenting with the new set up? Or did you just want to see if the stock bottom end could hang? I enjoy watching either way, i just honestly want to know why you didn't skip straight to the forged bottom end

@ReignitedAuto

5 ай бұрын

Honestly a lot of it was money related, these forged kits are super expensive. But also, yes I was originally convinced the stock bottom end could handle the 14psi of boost I was trying to run. And the first time it blew up was ring land failure, which is on me for not opening up the factory ring gap enough. The second time it blew up it was a mechanical failure, likely broken exhaust valve. So I still think with proper tuning I could've made it live at 14psi with correct tuning. However I'm getting tired of taking the engine out all the time 😄. So this time I figured go all the way and spend the money. If it blows up this time I'll be rather upset 😁

@sleepychallenger

5 ай бұрын

​@@ReignitedAuto I hear you one hundred percent. These things are expensive, I have had a 397 stroker kit for about a year waiting to pay for machine work. I totally understand. When you first started doing the twin charged build, i thought maybe i over did some things, but i plan on running a similar boost level so i guess it was a safe bet. I am also learning to do my own tuning, so i see what you're saying there too. It's unfortunate that we have to learn these ways sometimes but it's fun at least the first couple times lol thank you for making your content. It's always informative and helped me cam my challenger. Look forward to following you on this build! Oh and I will definitely be using the new melling oil pump

I wonder how much that 2017 block can take.

@ReignitedAuto

8 күн бұрын

I wonder the same thing 😄. I think it's going to be fairly conservative where I'm at now, should be close to 650whp. 👍

My main cap is stuck and I can’t get it out(bolts are out) . Any tips for getting it out? lol I disassembled my 5.7 to turn it into an 392.

@ReignitedAuto

5 ай бұрын

They are super tight. What I usually do: on the sides of the main caps near where the bolts go in there are small openings between the cap and the block. I stick a pry bar in those openings and use light pressure to push the main cap up. Usually doesn't require much force, and those openings aren't a bearing surface or anything so it's OK if you make a mark on them. Be gentle and work both sides of the cap evenly it should pop up. 👍

@IsThatGeneral

5 ай бұрын

@@ReignitedAuto tried that already lol it’s main cap number one. Has an opening on each side as you stated. Using my pry bar I tried pushing it up. The left side moves but the right side doesn’t. Could I cut the main cap in the side that doesn’t move? I have new billet main caps and an 6.1 crank do I don’t care about the oem main cap

@ReignitedAuto

5 ай бұрын

@@IsThatGeneral Make sure you've got the cross bolt out on that side! LOL! I would only cut it out as a last resort, cleaning all that debris out of the engine would be a major pain.

BGE blocks are all the same. Truck and SRT. As to OEM forged powdered metal rods...they seem to hold up just fine in the Hellcat and Redeye engines.

@joshreynolds729

5 ай бұрын

All the v8 blocks aren’t bge blocks. And there are differences in the blocks for instance 17 and previous scats don’t have bge blocks and not as strong as the hellcat block. The 5.7 isn’t bge and isn’t as strong nor does it share the same displacement.

@Fore-Four-Dee-Too

5 ай бұрын

@@joshreynolds729 Like I stated, all BGE blocks are the same. I did not state that all hemi blocks are the same or that all are BGE.

@joshreynolds729

5 ай бұрын

@@Fore-Four-Dee-Too My mistake man wasn’t my intent to down play what you knew if that’s how it came across my apologies. Well Either way for those who don’t know, now they do and those that do its not for them. Not here to make anyone look bad it’s purely knowledge based for me. Either way no hard feelings 👍🏻.

@joshreynolds729

5 ай бұрын

Although I believe there are differences in the bge blocks as well. Sizes, webbing, and I want to say larger cooling jackets depending on the bge block.

Could you please give us links?

Which pistons did you get 4032 or 2816?

@ReignitedAuto

Ай бұрын

2618 👍

I cant see reason for not using 6.4 truck block at 700 HP limit on Horsepower . 4 bolt mains steel crank, i would use appropriate rotating parts. a mopar 318 is proven at 600 hp less then 7000 rpm 4inch stroke, can go few years

What's the max RWHP can a stock nag1 handle?

@ReignitedAuto

Ай бұрын

I think I'm about to find out 😄

I also went down the ARP road once... never again, way over priced IMO for what you get. If you are running a Pro Stock or top fuel probably a good idea but otherwise I will pass.

heh, $400 for ARP Studs is nothing, check out the ARP 625's for a Cummins

@ReignitedAuto

5 ай бұрын

Good lord! 🙄 I get making a profit on your products, but let's get real here!

@j2008willis

5 ай бұрын

Haha no kidding, almost hurts my feelings as much as paying for Taco Bell nowadays (Post-Covid prices) it's borderline disrespectful.

Wanna build a hemi for a van project

Hemi heads, .... I'm having a electrical sounding buzz when the engine is off. Buzz then silent, and buzz. Car starts no issue, no message and its sounding like from the engine. What's that?

Would a 5 speed bolt on to the hellcat 6.2 ??????

@ReignitedAuto

4 ай бұрын

What kind of 5 spd? NAG automatic or a manual trans? If manual, the Hellcat has the same bellhousing pattern as all the other Hemi engines, so the 5spd manual I put behind the 392 in my C10 would work just fine. Whether it would hold up or not is another question though.

@bolo_antrax_kennels

4 ай бұрын

@@ReignitedAuto it's the automatic

@bolo_antrax_kennels

4 ай бұрын

@@ReignitedAuto yes 5 speed

@ReignitedAuto

4 ай бұрын

@@bolo_antrax_kennels yep, it'll bolt right up.

@bolo_antrax_kennels

4 ай бұрын

@@ReignitedAuto thanks I appreciate it 🙏 love your chanel learn a lot keep up the amazing work💯🤝

Come on man 650 out of FI 6.4 is just lazy 😅 With a 14 psi it should be in the 800 to 850 range easily.

@ReignitedAuto

5 ай бұрын

I'm keeping my expectations low so I don't crush my ego when it actually gets dyno'd 😂

Who needs to measure and balance anything when you can just do a quick hone job throw some aftermarket parts. Acceptable tolerances not needed. Send it bud. 😀😀😀😃😃😀

@ReignitedAuto

5 ай бұрын

According to the MMX website for this drop in forged kit: "These will match factory specs for balance and will not require any balancing"

Today's cars have bucket seats not comfortable nothing like a 1976 Cadillac Eldorado bench seats

Let the less fortunate 5.7L owners have a moment to themselves. 😢 6.4L🇺🇸🦅🔥

You can't trust some of his info. He said so.

The VVT system on these engines are controlled by oil pressure not the computer

@ReignitedAuto

5 ай бұрын

kzread.info/dash/bejne/lYSp2ctsk6mwfaQ.html

Is he going to be wrong on here again

I agree that the price of ARP bolts is unreal, BUT why didn't you get another brand then? Because they are worth it.