I fixed my engine following your instructions, thank you very much, save some money!

This is a great instructional video series, very informative.

Great selection of useful videos, really appreciate you taking the time to share your knowledge and experience, it helped me enormously when rebuilding my engine. I like the way you explain things and the videos are very well put together and clear. Thanks again 👍

@fnaguitarplayer9

4 жыл бұрын

Appreciate that! Your welcome, glad to help out! Thanks for Watching!!!

no problem at all, glad to help out!!! glad my video(s) helped you out! thanks for watching them!!!

Excellent rebuild! You really know your stuff.

Just about to start the rebuild. Awesome videos..thanks for sharing! James, UK.

@fnaguitarplayer9

4 жыл бұрын

Good luck on your project! Appreciate that, hanks for Watching!!!

Great video, very well done

wow was trying to figure out why I had so many gaskets end play for the crank what a helpful video

extremely helpful with magneto question I had. thank you for sharing your expertise

@fnaguitarplayer9

9 жыл бұрын

George Cummings Your welcome, glad to help out! Thanks for Watching!!!

Yepp, pretty neat idea! Seems like I always end up using the red one, its thicker than the black ones, or double up on the black ones, just depends on the motor. thanks, glad to help out. thanks for watching!!!

ure fantastic mechanic!! u us in "real" world not all is perfect!! JUST " get r done" !! and "back running, for "maybe yrs = GOOD JOB and lots of common sense

@fnaguitarplayer9

8 жыл бұрын

+OK DRAIN MAN I appreciate that, but i'm not the best. yeah that is true, its alot different than working on something brand new that everything would just come apart easily. Sometimes it makes it hard to make videos though haha thanks for watching!!!

makes sense! thanks for the tip! Thanks for Watching!!!

thanks! i didn't realize this series has gotten so many views! I hope to do a video on a 3 or 3.5 horse next summer, engine and carburetor. Thanks for watching!!!

@79firebirdman i've heard of doing that before, or using a business card. Which i might start doing because it is a pain sometimes with the feeler gauge, it always moves on me when i'm tighten the magneto down. thanks for the tip and thanks for watching!

thanks! thanks, but i'm not the greatest, its more less a hobby to me haha i do hope to have a small engine shop some day though! Thanks for Watching!!!

STP brand oil treatment, its really thick and coats everything really good. You can use motor oil or any oil treatment like motor honey or anything like that. anything is better than starting up dry. thanks for watching!!!

very common problem on these! yes you can do that, but I recommend using Permatex Form-A-Gasket #2, great stuff, and its about the same price as the blue rtv. And also if you can salvage the gasket, i would put the sealer on both faces then use the gasket as well. works really good. thanks for watching!!!

Dude you saved my a*s I didn't know how to line up the gears for the timing

yeah that can be tricky, alot of people run into that. I'm glad they have timing marks like that, it would be a pain if it didn't haha glad to help and thanks for watching!!!

Planning on only doing the valve job and head gasket without removing the engine. Got a straight edged on the way to check for warpage first. Thanks for your time

@fnaguitarplayer9

3 жыл бұрын

Your welcome! Thanks for Watching!!!

If its a 5 horse briggs (standard for mini bikes and go karts) they have quite a bit of power stock. go to eccarburetors for performance parts, its recommended to run a billet aluminum flywheel if your going past stock governed speeds to prevent the cast iron flywheel from exploding. thanks for watching!

the rings. The valve guides would have to be done at a machine shop if they need replaced, which you usually replace the valves too. hope that helps and thanks for watching!!!

yes. look up haynes small engine repair manual, the one i got doesn't cover new engines, but i'm sure they have a new book out by now. And you can look up a Briggs and Stratton torque spec chart in pdf format online, or go to the B&S website and lookup specs for your engine model. If there is ever something you can't find, message me and i can look it up, i was actually planning on doing a video last summer on all common specs but i never got around to it. thanks for watching!!!

@1899lpv it could be used but it can affect the reading on a torque wrench. but other than that, it would be the next best thing to the locking tab. Thanks alot! Really appreciate it. Thanks for watching.

@TheAudioCenter yeah thats right. thanks for watching!!!

depends on several things... first of all if your cylinder is in good shape, (measures to spec) then you can usually get by with standard size rings, if its slightly bigger you can sometimes get by with getting bigger rings and filing the ring end gap to spec, but thats only if the cylinder is just slightly worn, if its really worn or especially if its scored, you have to have it bored out and use over sized rings AND piston, or have it re-sleeved. Thanks for Watching!!!

Easy way to set the air gap on the magneto! The spec on most all of these is about 6/1000's, which is pretty much as close as you can get it without touching. So you don't have to wrestle with magneto, wrench, and feeler gauge all at the same time, just fold a piece of lined notebook paper in half(not copier paper, too thick!). Make sure the flywheel and magneto have no rust or dirt and put folded paper between magnet and magneto, tighten bolts. Remove paper, turn flywheel a couple times....

I think we got it from NAPA, but any place that sales small engine parts should be able to get it for you. they are not cheap though, but you almost have to have it for flat head engines. thanks for watching!

yeah, no problem!

not really sure right off hand, when i inspect a camshaft i usually check for scoring, they rarely ever wear down to the point of needing to be replaced, sorry i can't be more specific. thanks for watching!!!

i get most gaskets (all parts for that manner) from pats small engine or tulsa engine warehouse, both are online stores google them and it should come up. thanks for watching!!!

@1972FordF150 loctite makes the bolt harder to turn, so it doesn't get a true reading. Its actually best to put oil on the bolts so they are easier to turn, thats the best way to get a true reading, but in my opinion they are more apt to come loose if you use oil. so personally i don't really recommend either LOL i always torque bolts slightly tighter than spec any way, if it says 185 in IBS, i will do 190 or 195. Especially if i'm reusing a head gasket. thanks for watching

Ok I bought the new sump gasket and bottom oil seal for the motor today. I talked to the repair shop about it smoking when I shut it off they said might be the valve guides are shot told me they will move if the bushings are worn, so got home pulled the head checked for play in the valves, No play at all felt nice and tight. Intake valve had some white soot on it. I looked best I could at the valves them selves and they look good to me no pitting. So I am guessing the rings maybe worn out.

right, where the linkage from the arm hooks to the carburetor open it up all the way. no problem!

when i tore this down i was expecting a aluminum kool bore, but it has a cast iron sleeve, some say these are all kool bore others say just some of them are, so i don't, maybe this is the wrong flywheel cover, who knows! but this motor does have a cast iron sleeve, i have 2 11 horse model 25 engines that are kool bore, still good motors, just don't last quite as long. and with aluminum bore motors you have to use chrome rings, not standard type. thanks for watching.

@1972FordF150 i misread what you wrote, yes you could adjust it to make up for it with loctite, but it would be hard to guess what to set it for.

not a silly question, i should make a quick video on this. if it all goes together easily you more than likely got it right, but if you want to check it, you will see a small nut and bolt on the governor arm that tightens up around the brass shaft that goes in the block, loosen that, (do all of this with the carburetor installed) then since the shaft is split, take a straight screwdriver and turn it clockwise until you can't (don't force it, just until it stops turning) then move the...

@TheIBANEX its to mark the piston, the mark always goes to the flywheel side of the engine. Because of the oil holes on the oil ring, the holes line up a certain way, thats what briggs will tell you. I will tell you it don't matter, if you look at a piston in either direction it is exactly the same, but just play it safe put it towards the flywheel side haha thanks for watching.

depends on the end play. Its better to have more play then not enough, to much will make it tight and it will grind itself in which ain't good. i would get the .015 and the .009, just to be on the safe side, the .005 usually isn't used, which is why it costs twice as much. to fill up the order (i'm not sure what there shipping charges are) you could get a couple of each just to have on hand. Just about everytime i order something like that i get 2, just so i have it on hand. >>>

I’m rebuilding the exact same engine. I already tore it down. I was hoping to see part 4/4… but there is only 1-3 of 4

Brigg has valve guide tools to install guides. Use a drill to install the reamer. Get the bushing tool for on top of the valve pocket. Also the guide installer.

@fnaguitarplayer9

5 жыл бұрын

I have the set for the smaller engines, but i haven't got this yet. Thanks for Watching!!!

governor to full throttle, all the way open, this sets the governor, how it comes from the factory. then tighten the bolt back up, then its ready to go. hope that makes sense.

@79firebirdman thats what i always thought but i hear that from alot of people. i might start using your paper technique, that sounds alot easier, if i use it i'll give you credit next time i do a video on this. I always go for a blue spark, if its not blue then i'll keep adjusting till i get there haha

@1972FordF150 and on this video when i torque the head and crankcase, its set a little higher.

well, good luck on your project! hope you get it going! hahaha i know what you mean!!!

i like the viedo 1.I need to have more information about fixing electrical systems on lawnmowers, safety wires tend to get into the way of letting the mower run properly or start. Trying to figure out which one needs if it is very hard to without trying to remove a safety feature. I would like to know more about wine process of a riding mower

@fnaguitarplayer9

10 жыл бұрын

I agree to a point, and to be honest on my mowers none of the safety switches are hooked up, but I don't recommend doing it, it can be very dangerous, the main one i recommend doing anything with is the reverse switch that shuts off the motor if you have the blades on and try to back up, thats the most annoying thing ever, and most mowers now days have a button you press to keep the motor running. You can do a google search for riding lawn mower schematics or wiring diagrams and find several different types that are out there. It would be hard to remove them, you just have to find the wires going to each switch and determine by trial and error whether the wires go together or don't touch, it will be different on each make/model. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!!!

@outdoorsman310 yeah haha HAHAA thanks for watching!

i have one of these, a 286707 12.5 i/c quiet, and its been running fine without that little tin plate on the head for a long time. didnt even know it was supposed to have one. i always run 5w40 synthetic. Luck? its on a homemade gokart so it gets a lot more air than it would in say a lawn tractor with a hood. i think ill find one anyways.

@fnaguitarplayer9

5 жыл бұрын

I hear ya! Yep it helps keep them cooler, and like you said on a gokart it will get alot more air then a slow lawn mower. I have seen some without it but most of the 12's / 12.5's have them. Thanks for Watching!!!

I will send a PM here in a minute with a link to the gasket set... No Problem, it kills 2 birds with 1 stone, i like working on these engines and I like making videos haha the knock could be a few things, most usually its the rod, or the syncrhobalancer, or piston slap. Usually rod though. PM Sent

If flywheel and magneto don't rub together anywhere, you're good. If it does, fold same piece of paper three times, try again. Usually 2 or three folds are enough. If more than 4 folds are needed, there is a clearance problem of some sort that needs to be resolved before setting flywheel/magneto airgap.

took me a little while to dig that one up! let me ask you this, do you need the oil seal that goes on the crankshaft OR the gasket between the crank cover and crankcase?

I overhauled my 13hp model 28m707. Put in new piston rod, piston and rings. New intake and exhaust valves. Engine is very hard to turn over due to high compression, when it does start it runs fine. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks

When you torque the end cap (connecting rod) could "Lock-tite" be used as an alternative or could it screw up the reading on the torque wrench? I know that is a delicate situation but, since you couldn't get a locking tab to prevent possible failure, I thought to ask. Excellent videos by the way.It saves a lot of money and aggravations.

@1972FordF150 probably. hard to tell, i don't know how you can test it though

Some Power Builts came with iron sleeves. My Power Built 18 HP twin has iron sleeves

Cool video man and how can loctite affect the reading of the torque wrench ?

So then I brought the piston to the top flush with the block and I can move the piston side to side a tad, I don't own a feeler gauge yet but it did move slightly.

I was given a old briggs and want to make it a hp motor for my son's mini bike . Which fly wheel is lighter and other performance stuff I can do to it.

get stuck between the rings and cylinder and score it all up, then your in trouble! So if you want to prolong the life of it, go ahead and rebuild it. The engine on my mower smokes when you give it throttle and you can smell it while cutting, I am thinking about putting the engine i rebuilt in this video on it this summer, I mainly rebuilt this one for this video, its still not even broken in 100% yet!!! Its possible the valve guides could be worn some, thats fairly common, but its usually>>>

Hello there I am in the process of rebuilding the same engine shown here, I have gotten the crank case put back on and now I'm hearing a clicking sound when i manually turn the shaft to cycle the engine plus it is hard to turn. what have I done wrong here please????

How often should one rebuild a engine? I got a wheel horse has a 11hp vertical single cylinder engine. was built in 1984 I don't think it was ever been rebuilt. It's a strong running motor but when I shut it off it smokes. Sometimes when I put the throttle up I see sparks coming out of the muffler. I am new at having a rider mower My guess would be something with the valves.

sounds like it is the rings, to be honest its very unusual not to have at least a little play in the valves. The piston should have a little bit of play in it, if its to much it will slap, the reason a little play is needed is when the engine heats up all metal expands, so if the piston was tight, when it warmed up it would expand and bust the cylinder or score it all up. I'm not sure right off what the play is supposed to be, but if you look up>>>

Resetting the governor arm did the trick. I didn't know anything about it until watching one of your videos on it. What's is your break in procedure to get the rings to seat after rebuilds. That would make a nice little video if you haven't already made one. Thanks again. AJ

@fnaguitarplayer9

5 жыл бұрын

Your welcome glad to help out. I like to run them for like 20 minutes then change oil then cut grass as normal but take a few breaks to let it idle for like 5 minutes. It would make a good vid, might do that, I mention on my rebuild videos too. Thanks for watching!

well most briggs are guaranteed for 2000 hours, but thats just a estimate. As long as it has plenty of power and you don't mind the smoke/adding oil every now and then, i'd let it go for a while, you could run a thicker oil (like a 10w-40) to cut down the oil burning. Sounds like it just needs new rings. The sparks is usually just carbon breaking off in the muffler, which means that there could be alot of carbon build up in the engine, so a rebuild might be best, the carbon can break off and>>>

Where did you get the gaskets from?

I have a 2 horse that looks Identical to it!

How high is the camshaft supposed to be (the part that pushes on the tappets).

do you know where i can get a crank case seal for a briggs and stratton model 6bs engine series 6000 do you know the part number or witch gasket will work thanks

I have the same motor and I think it ran low on oil so it quit running. Haven't checked it out yet. Hoping there is a low oil thing on it and it shut it off. Thanks for the videos. Sounds like you have been doing this for a while.

@fnaguitarplayer9

5 жыл бұрын

Hopefully thats all it was, but it may have something more major wrong. your welcome! Yeah its been a long time, I used to help my dad work on the mowers as a kid, now i do it. Thanks for Watching!!!

Thanks to your videos I've been able to rebuild my 12hp model 28. It's a powebuilt and also has a cast iron sleeve, even has a little chrome sticker that says cast iron. Did you have to adjust the governor arm after you rebuilt it. I started mine up today and had to choke it to keep the speed down. I laid it mag side down with the PTO sticking up and put the tip of the governor/oil slinger on the governor arm when I put the crank cover on and it slipped on nice so I assumed it was where it should be. Carb linkage looks right. Any idea where to check. I'm thinking to adjust the governor arm and go from there. Thanks again for the great videos

@fnaguitarplayer9

5 жыл бұрын

Glad to help out. I recommend adjusting it anytime the carb is off. Thanks for watching!

i have a 12.5 hp briggs and the valve breather is leaking oil. I replaced the gasket but it still leaks oil. Could I just make a gasket with blue rtv?

Good motors! If its a 11 horse it will be a model 25, 28 is a 12 or 12.5 horse, I get most of my parts from tulsa engine warehouse (tewarehouse) you can save alot of money by buying there aftermarket house brand parts, primeline, just as good as briggs in my opinion. If you need help looking up the set, send me your model type and code and i'll look up the exact parts for you if you need me to. thanks for watching!!!

sent it to you witch thickness would you reccomend

That part you were saying you didn't have that goes on the connecting bolts so they don't back out the Briggs & Stratton number for that part is # 222299 $2.76 at Jack's small engines on the net.

gasket between block and crank case cover

I will have to have the Model Type and code numbers off the engine, there are several different series in the 6000 model. I'm not to familiar with this model, they may all use the same seal.

I'm in the process of reassembling my 12.5hp B&G. How do I know that the oil slinger is installed properly? I didn't catch your technique when putting it back in. Thanks!

@fnaguitarplayer9

8 жыл бұрын

+cavarlyvet Just make sure that the shaft part lines up with arm (the part the goes through the block and connects to the linkages). if its lined up with it, it should go together easily. Thanks for Watching!!!

but right now, i'm out of everything, i'm not at my garage this time of year so i'm really doing much with Small engines

Can you also send me the link of the gasket set?

do they sell a book that has torque specs for briggs and stratton engines

Thanks alot, I am trying to find the cheapest to rebuild this thing as I dont have a whole lot of money to work with. I double checked the model numbers and such. Model: 252707 Type: 0201-01 Code: 80010511 Thanks for the informative videos. I also have two other engines one is a 12hp model 28 (i believe) and a 12.5hp also Model 28 (i believe). The current motor on my mower started knocking so I started collecting other engines to make one good one havnt tore it apart yet to see whats knocking.

Great. this helped me a lot, thanks. Where can I get the same tool to compress the springs that you used? as would preffer this type, can you advsie me of the name and make or a link if possible. thank you

@fnaguitarplayer9

8 жыл бұрын

+Andy Robertson Glad to help out, your welcome! Its briggs and stratton part #19063, you can find them on ebay or from tulsa engine warehouse here: tewarehouse.com/7-05234 Thanks for Watching!!!

How do you know which piston rings to use? I pulled up a drawing for my b&s 12.5 hp flat head. It shows .020 o/s rings, but I see standard, .020, & .030 for sale. BTW it has a cast iron sleeve.

@fnaguitarplayer9

3 жыл бұрын

Most of the time, if the engine has never been rebuilt, and the cylinder is in good shape and doesn't need bored out, then you can use standard rings, which is what is needed for cast iron sleeve. You would use chrome rings for a engine without a cast iron sleeve, aluminum bore engines. hope this helps, thanks for watching!!!

Can you leave a source for your engine parts ?

Hello, I was wondering if u could tell me which set of gaskets to buy from the Tulsa engine warehouse website for the crankcase as there are a few to choose from and I'm not entirely sure myself. Got the same engine but iv been stuck on the same problem with the crankcase for a fair wile. Thanks very much:)

@fnaguitarplayer9

10 жыл бұрын

Just to make sure is the same (there was some variances from year to year) i need the model type and code off the motor just to make sure i'm getting you the right numbers. thanks for watching!

to how much the torque for the piston nuts to the follower

@fnaguitarplayer9

3 жыл бұрын

The connecting rod bolts? If they are both the same length bolts, 185 inch pounds, if different, torque small bolt to 185 in pounds, then the longer one to 260 in pounds. Thanks for Watching!!!

i wouldnt mess with a powerbuilt block, I/C blocks are common enough and they have a cast iron bore so your rebuild will last allot longer. never really liked cold bore engines they wear out too quickly since the rings ride against aluminum

after reinstalling the piston with new rings. It is extremely hard to turn the crank shaft. thoughts......

@fnaguitarplayer9

9 жыл бұрын

Josh Morris Have you installed the crank cover yet? if not it will be stiff from everything not lined up, also, if it is back together all the way, make sure your end play is right on the crankshaft, if its to tight, no play at all, it will be very hard to crank over. thanks for watching!!!

@fnaguitarplayer9 A business card would be too thick. I always clean the flywheel and coil with fine sandpaper and/or steelbrush until no rust rubs off on a clean cloth, then finish cleaning with wd-40 and a soft rag. I go for as close as I can get it without it scrubbing, because a close fit with a tiny air gap makes for a hot spark. Too large an airgap equals weak spark. Like on a car motor, a good hot spark on a Briggs motor will be the color of lightning; red, orange and yellow are weak.

start your torque at 100,then 150,then 185,you get a much more even torque.

I have an old 11hp that came off of an 1986 or so John Deere 111. I am currently rebuilding it. I wanna buy a new gasket set for my rebuild where is the cheapest place to get them online? I don't want to spend a lot on it. Its the Model 28 I believe. Thanks everyone.

thought that was what you meant, ok there are 3 different thicknesses and 3 different part numbers For .015" its #27586 / for .009" its 27618 / for .005" its 27617 looks like Jacks small engines has it, and its on ebay. On jack's just do a search for the part number, they have all 3 of them. I found a pdf manual of your engine, if you PM me your email address i'll send it to you, that way you can tell 100% sure if this is the same as yours. I don't remember if thats the same model # but>>>

my video called "Teardown and Inspection of Briggs and Stratton 12.5 HP I/C Flathead Engine " thats a good example of way to much play and this engine had a bad piston slap. i'd say you need new rings.

I'm working on a briggs 5hp and the previous owner forgot to use oil when rebuilding it

@fnaguitarplayer9

10 жыл бұрын

oh no! Thats not good haha Thanks for Watching!

i have a 12.5 briggs and i cant find the cam shaft gear

@fnaguitarplayer9

8 жыл бұрын

The camshaft gear is built onto the camshaft, all one piece, but you probably need the gear on the crankshaft? IF so its part number 262135. If not, the camshaft part number is 212897. Thanks for Watching!!!

@fnaguitarplayer9 Lol, I'd say probably like 5 or 10 inch pounds would make up for it.

model 6bs type no 901118 serial no 365728 made in the late 1950's

With the torque tighten the rod?

@fnaguitarplayer9

9 жыл бұрын

Radosław Serafin If you mean the rod has play in it, and if a new rod doesn't take up the play within tolerance, you will have to get a .020" undersize rod and have the crankshaft journal machined down. Thanks for Watching!

haha old guys around here call em "warshers" too :p

@fnaguitarplayer9

7 жыл бұрын

lol I've that pointed alot that i say it like that haha thanks for watching!!!

@fnaguitarplayer9 Yeah, I don't know either lol