Beautiful car Tim, just picked up a 740i myself and these cars are really the Ultimate Driving Machine!

Great instructions and explanation of how to bleed the coolant. Thank you Timm.

@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation

3 жыл бұрын

Always my pleasure!

What a lovely 840! I envy you, sir. Thank you for making this video

@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation

4 жыл бұрын

My pleasure!

Love this channel!!! Thanks for posting the PROPER procedure and helping people not cook their engines!

@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation

4 жыл бұрын

Always my pleasure!

Just what I needed after installing the 740d 88C euro thermostat on my 03 540i. Much appreciated Timm! Keep up the good work, always enjoy your videos, such a pleasure to watch and learn. Thanks again.

@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the encouragement!

Timm, I appreciate these videos. I rebuilt my 540i and was able to bleed the cooling system first time without issue. 👍

@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation

4 жыл бұрын

Great news!

Hi Timm, I am a new owner of a 1999 740il E38 and enjoy your most informative videos.

@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks John!

Thanks for the great video! I did the valley pan job on my 540i, changed couple hoses, and flushed whole cooling system at the same time. I had never done any bleeding on m62 or bled any system that had been completely emptied. No witchcraft was needed. Since my system was completely empty, I used a huge funnel as help to get the coolant level above the heater core while filling it up to get little extra air out before the actual bleeding, and after adding approx. 12L of coolant and seeing it coming out from the bleeding screw hole, I pumped radiator hoses for a while, then started the engine, and followed the instructions given on the video. As promised, this method worked perfectly.

@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation

3 жыл бұрын

Good stuff, glad to be of help!

Another very good and informative video on a subject that's treated as if its surrounded with about as much black magic as carburation. I was recently surprised that I had been driving around with about 2 pints short of coolant when I decided to re bleed my M54 when I conveniently found myself parked facing upwards on quite a quite a steep hill. No wonder my scan tool was reporting that the engine was always on the warm side. 200F - 209F. When normally it would be in between 190F-200F. All is good now.

@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation

3 жыл бұрын

Glad you caught it before any problems Andrew!

I have always bled BMWs cold with the engine off by brimming the reservoir and burping the top hose. Whatever you do I have found that if the top hose is free from bubbles and the radiator is actually full (in other words coolant comes out whenever the hose is squeezed). Then with the tank slightly overfilled it's always been good to go.

Very well explained Thanks

@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation

4 жыл бұрын

You are welcome!

Good evening, sir! Can I ask if the explanation of the procedure written on your website is a worse or better option than this explained here in the video? There you mention that not refilling coolant during the engine is running, but in the video you certainly did? Thank you! Great channel!!

I love your videos

@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks!

Hey Tim! I'm glad I discovered your videos. Wonderful content. Right now I'm having an issue bleeding my e38. When I rev the engine, I see no coolant spraying from the bleed hole when I look inside the expansion tank like it should at 4:10. I recently had my radiator crack while I was driving. Car overheated. I'd replaced the radiator and thermostat and since have been bleeding the system.

@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation

4 жыл бұрын

Check that you have flow from the top of the radiator via the bleed hose that runs to the bleed screw - if you get no flow it will never bleed correctly. More details here: kzread.info/dash/bejne/int9zZqCiLateag.html

So I’m having this strange issue I hope you can help me with. I recently finished my timing chain guide replacement along with gaskets and such. Refilling the coolant has been my issue, first day I filled it to the top and quickly put it on the incline and shut it off. Did the whole bleeding process but I left it overfilled. I assumed because the lines were finally full of fluid this was right. After about 30 minutes of driving still had no heat, upper rad hose looked bout ready to burst. Lower one was pretty solid too, upper very hot and lower slightly cooler. Hoses on the back of the engine were hot, it reached 110 before I shut it off and let it cool back down. Today I drained the excess coolant from the expansion tank till the bobber was level. Noticed the lines now felt empty. I started it and the bleeder hose or whatever they call it the pee hose in the tank was flowing but both upper and lower hoses felt almost completely empty. I’m not sure what exactly I’m doing wrong but I’ve been trying to sort this out for the past week and still no luck. Any help is appreciated!!

Hey what the heck? are people stupid or what? YOU ARE THE GREATEST BMW GUY ON KZread, why don't you have more subscribers? Keep it going. Found you on e38.org and have been following since. About five years. you and nathandiygarage. All your info has been correct, from mm size to torque. Come people give this guy some more support, he's helped thousands on other BMW sites. Thank-you so,so much Timm. your great!

@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation

4 жыл бұрын

Well, that's a glowing appraisal! Thanks!

that spot where we bleed or air need to come out in my case come nothing from there temperature is fine and than 10 min later..... from expansion tank cup on top come coolant :/ e38 735i

Hi Tim, thanks for the really helpful video! I’ve got a quick question. I’ve bought an e38 750i and am going to replace all coolant lines and coolant as part of preventative maintenance. The car has the REST function on the heater controls in the car. Do you know if this runs off a separate system and needs to be bled separately to the main system as described in your video? Or will be bled whilst bleeding the main system? I read somewhere that it might need to be but just need some clarification! Thanks and keep up the great work, cheers!

@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation

3 жыл бұрын

All the big BMW's got the restorative heating - it uses the standard system but runs the auxiliary water pump (which is its main purpose) to circulate the coolant when the engine is not running.

Thanks again

@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation

9 ай бұрын

Always welcome!

Thanks for the video Timm! Two questions I'd love to ask you. Firstly, it seems like this procedure fills the coolant system up to the brim with pure coolant. As in, 100% full. Why is there a need for the coolant level bob? Second is about cars with the latent heat accumulator. Instructions are different for bleeding the system. Can you comment about how this procedure works for cars with the latent heat accumulator, and for cars without? Thanks

@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation

Жыл бұрын

That was the emergency procedure to get me home - the correct filling is shown later

Great video(s), Sir! whats the actual difference of bleeding through the bleed screw and the cap to the expansion tank?

@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks! The bleed screw is connected to the top of the radiator and releases air as the coolant circulates - whereas removing the cap just reduces the system pressure.

Oh dear. Look at all those oil stains on your driveway. I bet you're glad you do all your work yourself as you are correct, they obviously leak. Collecting my 2018 F06 this week. Can't wait..

@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation

2 жыл бұрын

Leak like sieves at some point, by the time I fix it the drive is a goner!

Hey timm, i own a 2001 740il e38 and must say your write ups on your site are awesome for the most part. I just have one thing that puzzles me. Your bleeding the coolant write up and this video differ in a couple ways. Ive gone by the write up previously and it worked but was a lil battle after seeing this video im wondering if i read the write up a lil wrong or if the procedure write up and video ptocedure are different?

@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation

4 жыл бұрын

My coolant bleeding method has evolved over the years - this video shows the most up-to-date version, but either methods work 100% of the time as long as you have no underlying problem.

@chrislentz3594

4 жыл бұрын

Okay i just was wondering why they were different cuz im presently bleeding mine cuz i recently had to do the timing cover gaskets and water pump gaskets and was having a lil bit of trouble. I think i got it now using your video. So thank you. Great write ups on your site. Very informative.

Hi Timm, thanks a lot for this video, I followed your procedure twice and it worked very well. You said your M62 is running with 85ºC thermostat, are you happy with it ? I tried it on my 740i M62 and the coolant stays at 80ºC. Isn't that a little bit too low? I would love to get your thoughts on that. Thank you!

@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation

3 жыл бұрын

Hello Guillaume, the E31 has an 85C thermostat by design, it was only the E38 and E39 that got the temperature-mapped thermostat -we didn't get any of the extra 'improvements' such as secondary air systems - we didn't even get an econometer! The M62 is perfectly happy at lower temperatures, possibly uses a little more few compared to the E38 but is always ready to supply full power!

@guillaumenoel7692

3 жыл бұрын

@@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation thanks a lot for your answer! I think I will stay with the 85º then, I really do not want my engine to run at 110+ºC, here in France we are starting to get high temperatures. Its an old car with almost 440 000kms and I want it to last as long as possible!

sweet ride! What do you use to dress the engine with?

@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation

Жыл бұрын

Nothing, I get a bag of 30 x microfibre cloths and scrub away using various sticks to get to the least accessible places. For the engine itself I add a bit of dish soap Frank.

Hello and big appreciation for your work! I totally understand the concept of bleeding this cars. I changed everything on the cooling system of my e39 M52 engine 1998 except the metal pipe and the hose that lives under intake manifold. I did exactly like you saying but need your expert advice what can cause pressure building in my hoses? Doesn't lose coolant or oil. They don't mix together. And the test with the blue liquid looks fine never change the blue colour. The mix is 50:50 with coolant from the dealer. Only thing I noticed... Looks like coolant doesn't circulate proper when idling? When preasure builds up (doesn't allow me to squeeze the hoses) the coolant in expansion tank(white see through) stays just 10mm obove cold level on the tank, doesn't rise. It supposed to enter in the tank when coolan get hot and pressure builds up in the radiator? When car warm up and idling at 100/102C only way to engage the viscous fan is to hold the rpm slightly higher about 1000 is enough and hold it for 20 seconds and only then I can feel the heat from the lower/termostat hose, looks like then coolant circulate better and viscous fan engages and stops around 94/95C. By the way that's the temperature while Im driving, steady 94C heating off. Why is that mystery? Please what is your guess?

@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation

2 жыл бұрын

Hello Shefket, pressure build-up is normal, the system operates at around 1 Bar in pressure when up to temperature. The hoses should be hard to squeeze. Now, if you are overheating that's another question!

@shefketmustafa9228

2 жыл бұрын

@@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation Thanks Timm! With our weather here in Wales is hard to overheat. I was losing coolan from the cap on my original radiator which had only 35k but I replaced the expansion tank and coolant leak stopped (i think just the neck of it with the time got bigger and the cap doesn't seal, just a theory no crack or something). But when idling temperature rises up to 104C and the auxiliary fan kicks in, never heard the viscous fan. I thought the radiator is blocked and no coolant flow so the viscous doesn't get heat enough to engage. Bought a radiator and changed the termostat with one from the dealer. Now sometime i can hear the viscous fan engaging at around 100C dropping it to 95C. But sometimes i have to push rpm a little bit to help coolan flow through radiator to help the viscous fan to engage Sometimes in traffic when otside temperatures are hot, the coolan temperature stays steady at 97C without going any higher? I think the viscous should engage itself without manipulation at 97C, correct me if I am wrong. No overheat till now, the only thing is the PCV valve has some noise when engine warms up like a resonance, when I squeeze the plastic that cover the diaphragm i can feel vibrations, sometimes the noise/vibrations disappear! I replaced the valve along with vent pipe and vent hose it's the simplest possible pcv from all the BMW's I've seen so far, it stops for a while now is back again I hope it is not related to my presure in the cooling system?

@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation

2 жыл бұрын

@@shefketmustafa9228 that all sounds normal, I explain it here: kzread.info/dash/bejne/hHipqdV9hcy-gdo.html

@shefketmustafa9228

2 жыл бұрын

@@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation I watched this video few times in the past it helped me to realise that the original one on the car after 22 years needed to be replaced. I found something very interesting earlier on INPA... Body/Air conditioning / I/O status... The circle for Auxiliary water pump was on while Vater Valves Left and Right was Off but the HAVAC panel was off. Then I switched on the heating fan to se how the circles from INPA I/O status will change and Vater Valves still off while they were set to 32C the I pressed the blue arrows down to drop the heating level and when I reached somewhere around 26C the circles changed to black showing they get activated. Then I lower the fan speed till it switched off but on the INPA status they were still on while randomly they were switching on and off Left one and Right absolutely randomly i even an hear them while signal changes. The HAVAC control panel maybe? The DME-KO Signal also randomly on and off. The selenoids and the motor tested in te past they work fine just the signal

Good explanation 👍What type of wheels?

@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks! They are 18" Rondell 58's - not made anymore but they turn up on Ebay now and again.

Purchased a 2004 X5 4.4i, previous owner had a radiator leak and used some kind of stop leak additive that swelled up inside the expansion tank. The stuff looked like balls of wet paper that clogged the passages inside the tank and caused the cap to loose its pressure relieving qualities. It basically turned the expansion into a pressure cooker that eventually cracked right at the seams. New hoses, water pump, thermostat, radiator and expansion tank should take care of it. Moving on to those pesky power steering hoses that are leaking since they rub against each other by design...😥

@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation

3 жыл бұрын

Great work, well done!

Hi Tim the stick of the coolant float is missing on my 650i, would you recommend replacing the tank and any other work?

@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation

5 ай бұрын

Yes, I certainly would, usually a sign of disintegrating plastic

@smad333

5 ай бұрын

@@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation Thankyou I will get one ordered

How effective would a vacuum/purge tool be vs this method?

@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation

2 жыл бұрын

The method shown in the video is the most effective way of bleeding these cars.

I have never had to bleed a cooling system on any car. I can only think that some cars have some of their pipes or tubes that are higher than the top of the radiator and will trap air causing coolant to boil there due to lower pressure. Am I right?

@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation

4 жыл бұрын

You are - a lot of air gets trapped in the heater system, but follow this routine and you will be fine.

i used the procedure and it worked well, however i did not change the seal of the coolant drain plug when draining the coolant and then it dripped into the water. now i have drained the coolant from the radiator to change the seal. is it necessary to drain the entire cooling water again for the procedure or can you start the procedure with the 8-9 liters in the system as in the video?

@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation

3 жыл бұрын

As long as you catch the coolant in a clean container you can re-use it - that's certainly what I would do!

@8236Biker

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you for your answer! I start the procedure with the 8-9 liters in the system after installing the new coolant water screw at the water cooler. Is the important way at that bleeding procedure to file up the the coolant when the engine is runing or to run it up a few times until the coolant comes out like in your discribtion to bleed it correctly.

Hi Tim , I followed the method for my Range Rover M62b44, the coolant circuit seems full, the thermostat opens at 108 ° C and the gauge stays well in the middle no overheating but I have a lot of pressure in the hoses . is this normal?

@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation

4 жыл бұрын

The system MUST be pressurised for the system to operate at above boiling point - all explained here: kzread.info/dash/bejne/int9zZqCiLateag.html

c est un des problèmes récurant des e46 320/323/325/328 etc etc

Hopefully you’ll know what’s up with this, I did the full bleed procedure as shown and the little pee valve thing isn’t shooting a stream, it’s dribbling down the side on the inside of the reservoir, it gets noticeable more flow when revved but both the upper and majority of the lower seem to be filled with air

@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation

3 жыл бұрын

That is normal, the auxiliary water pump helps with the flow, but the engine still needs to be revved to get a good stream!

@Elite.customs_479

3 жыл бұрын

@@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation yes I took a video of it and there isn’t a stream sputtering out like yours, so it’s normal for The lines to feel almost empty with the reservoir dipstick flush with the top, I’m scared to run it for a long period of time because they seem so empty

ive only had my 04 plate 645ci for a couple of weeks and ive never once seen the temperature guage move. ive only left it running for about 20 minutes and drove it around the block every day. what would you suggest?

@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation

2 жыл бұрын

That's not the coolant temperature gauge - it's the oil temperature and it will not move until a few minutes of driving

@ukadventurecycling2740

2 жыл бұрын

@@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation thanks Tim. I've let it run for 10 minutes and it's never moved. Ill give it a run out for half hour see what happens. I've been following everything you have reccome ded to protect this engine before I drive it properly. Thanks for all of the info in the videos. Just the gearbox seal to do next and drill the right back box as per your guide to get the improved sound.

Do I see a e60 M5 to the side?!

@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation

4 жыл бұрын

Sorry, it's my 650i!

What’s with the oddity of the M62 engines not having thermostats available below 105C? Google, EBay, they just don’t exist.

@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation

Жыл бұрын

The E31 has a 85C stat as standard

@paperandmedals8316

Жыл бұрын

@@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation but your M62 has a production date after 9/1998. M62 engines with an earlier production date can not use the thermostat your E31 has.

@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation

Жыл бұрын

Take a visit to the e38 section of bimmerforums.com as they are swapping in 85C stats. The thermostat housing has to be replaced AFAIR - they will know....

Hi Tim so do I do the same thing to my N62 engine in my 645CI

@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation

4 жыл бұрын

The N62 is much better at self-bleeding and the aux pump is low in the engine bay - but it is still worth raising the front of the car.

“Give her the Willy” 😂

@TimmsBMWRepairsandInformation

2 жыл бұрын

...WELLY!