Looks like my roof, and mine was a Florida car. At least I know that it can be fixed. Good looking job.

@TaySprays

2 ай бұрын

Haha thanks man. Yea, it can be done. Dont let them try to sell you a $9000 roof. Haha

Great work

@TaySprays

11 күн бұрын

Thanks man! 💪🏼

This is AMAZING work man.

@TaySprays

8 ай бұрын

Thanks man. I hope you have a great weekend!

NOT a pro painter but done fair amount here and there over the yrs, one thing I found really helps is to wet the local environment down as much as practicle. Obviously you can spray entire shop down but every little bit helps to prevent debris from getting airborne.

@TaySprays

3 ай бұрын

Haha. Yea, I’ve had to do that before….but honestly I couldn’t say it helped enough to justify doing it in my home garage with my wood cabinets nearby…..at the level of quality I hold myself to, I’m going to be wet sanding and buffing no matter what. Yes, wax or ceramic coating will definitely help preserve this finish. Wax is SOOOOOO overlooked in the retail automotive world. So few people keep up with it. Keeps me in business though. Haha

@Mrbfgray

3 ай бұрын

@@TaySprays Thanks for reply! I've been a LONG time believer in wax, yes it needs to be repeated several X per yr. Short story--as welding contractor for any industry U can think of, back in the '80's I had a periodic gig at a soda ash plant in E. Cali. It's a common industrial basic compound, mildly caustic. The OLD plant located in the desert was entirely covered in soda ash dust, including my custom welding rig after a week or two. Before I left for that few week stint of 12 hr shifts I did a last minute waxing of rig but only got *half done* before I had to hit the road, better half than none, right? Well it rained lightly on that job, very rare thing there, just enough to wet the soda ash dust and cause streaks down the side of truck. The side that wasn't waxed was *etched by the caustic water,* my shiny paint job dulled in streaks, painted lettering on door noticeably lightened and dulled in stripes. The *waxed side was completely undamaged!* Still bright and shiny. That was a telling TEST. :D)

@Mrbfgray

3 ай бұрын

@@TaySprays Have 2011, E92-M3, manual, comp., carbon roof naturally, so this is important to me! Love that car, will be extra diligent about keeping the roof waxed from now on. (or otherwise coated) Pretty good about wax anyway but this drives it home, no pun intended.

Always the best ……

this video is very helpful. my Laguna Seca Blue 01manual coupe was a dealer order and they had the carbon roof installed before placing it on the showroom. the years have it looking less then perfect. I need to do this to mine this winter

@TaySprays

7 ай бұрын

Yea man. Aesthetically, I feel the carbon roof makes the biggest statement for these cars….apart from the aggressive front bumpers. They were one of the first manufacturers to “mainstream” that type of carbon fiber application. Round about way of saying…..yes, try to restore it and keep it beautiful. Haha let me know if I can help in any way.

@VillaArgento7089

7 ай бұрын

@@TaySprays thank you sir. I have photos of the car on the showroom. It sure looked fantastic back then. The top actually still looks pretty good being garaged but it does have some failures appearing. I wasn’t sure what the top coat product was. I was guessing an epoxy product. I was happy to see it was a good clearcoat

@VillaArgento7089

7 ай бұрын

@@TaySprays you can see it on my page here

Amazing work champ! 👏👏💪

@TaySprays

6 ай бұрын

Thanks bud! Hope you’re having a great weekend! 💪🏼

I’m about to do an m4 roof. I’ll be tinting the first session of clear to match the hood and spoiler which have a darker looking carbon. The factory carbon is light on these compared to some of the aftermarket accessories.

@TaySprays

7 ай бұрын

Nice. Personally, I like the BRIGHT looking carbon. It looks crisp and shows the authenticity the most when the sun hits it…..but I get the aesthetic uniformity. As long as the client is happy….thats all that matters. 💪🏼

Besides not parking in the sun which I don't, and car covers. What else can prevent or delay this degradation, wax should help, for example?

What grit did you use for sanding back the old clear/epoxy and what grit did you use before spraying clear?

@TaySprays

7 ай бұрын

Anything between 120-180 will work to trip the old stuff. Between coats you could do 320-800. If you use 320, you should put more layers of clear. If you use 800 2 coats will be fine.

Morning can you send me your contact info I have a 2013 BMW m6. Were the carbon fiber roof has failed

@TaySprays

7 ай бұрын

Hey bud. Sorry to hear about your roof. Shoot me and email with a few pics, close up to the damage and far away to see context. Taysprays@gmail.com

Why is M3 so high off the ground?

@TaySprays

2 ай бұрын

That car belongs to an older gentleman. So I’m sure the SLAMMED style may be a bit challenging for him. 🤭

Hey what type of clear or recine you used if i can know name or bramd. Thanks

@TaySprays

3 ай бұрын

Hey. I use Spies 8035 clearcoat for all my jobs. They warranty it up to 10 years I think. It’s REALLY good stuff…..expensive though.

Just curious why did you re sand and re spray clear coat it the 2nd time and not just do the normal sand it clear coat then buff and polish?

@TaySprays

2 ай бұрын

Honestly, I do the second application because that’s how I do it on the exotic cars. It’s labeled as “PIANO FINISH” for Aston Martin, Bentley, McClaren, etc…However, it also adds an extra layer of UV protection from the sun. You would be “ok” with just a single application of clear, it just doesn’t meet my aesthetic and quality standard for the product I provide to customers.

@JVSKRR-is7qr

2 ай бұрын

@@TaySprays that’s good to know. Thank you very much!

Really nice work. My 2012 is doing the same thing in Texas. Do you think sanding off the original coating is easier than taking it off in sheets like I see online sometimes via an air compressor?

@TaySprays

6 ай бұрын

Yea, I’ve seen that as well. It’s a case by case scenario. Not all of them have delaminated enough for that to work. However, If you have the volume of air to try and blow off the delaminated areas I would suggest trying that first, for sure. I didn’t have a big enough compressor to generate enough volume for that to work at the time. That problem has now been resolved. Haha Keep me posted on how it goes, and if that method worked for your project.

Hi! Thank you for the helpful video. I'm having a similar issue with the carbon fiber roof on my i3. I'm not local to you so I will be looking for someone in North Carolina to repair it. I'm wondering, is this a routine thing that most body shops can handle or do I have to take it to a specialist?

@TaySprays

Ай бұрын

Ok wow….havent seen an i3 yet, but the process should be the same nonetheless. I would definitely research and vet the shop first. I have been working with carbon fiber since I started in the automotive industry 18 years ago. It’s not something I would just hand over to anyone. A good shop, with experience is going to charge quite a bit. The lowest I’ve personally seen for just an m3 was $2450. Feel free to email me if you have any further questions. Taysprays@gmail.com

@lcaronline

Ай бұрын

Thank you!

how much did you end up charging for the roof?

@TaySprays

2 сағат бұрын

An adequate amount for the labor and materials involved.

Hi There, great work! I have a question - in process with the same task on my 07 M6. Assuming the seal on the rear glass is the same as the M3, how did you manage clearing over that rear edge with the seal in place? Appreciate any/all feedback!

@TaySprays

3 ай бұрын

Very sorry for the late reply. Almost every one of these cars I’ve done has also had a degrading rear seal, and front seal. Most people say they can replace them separately from the glass. I personally have not done a seal replacement. Typically I take a precision razor and cut it flush to the top edge of the glass. The glass is urethaned in so I think that seal is for wind noise mitigation. Correct me if I’m wrong.

@louaguglia1993

2 ай бұрын

@@TaySprays Following up. On the E63 M6, the rear seal replacement does require rear glass removal. I agree that cutting the exposed portion of the seal has limited to no negative affects. The front seal is easily replaced as it slips onto and straddles the edge of the windshield all around.

So you don’t use epoxy at all? Just sand down to where you can see the fibers and clear ? No resin needed ?

@TaySprays

7 ай бұрын

The purpose of a resin application here would be to prevent “mapping” or a visible outline of the weave over time from thermodynamic expansion and contraction (heating and cooling of the carbon). While it’s an added protection, I don’t see that one way is better than the other. From my experience, I haven’t seen that epoxy adds a superior adhesion as opposed to clearcoat. I use 2 applications of 2-3 coats of clearcoat to eliminate the possibility of the mapping issue. However, you COULD do a resin application followed up with clearcoat and achieve the same results. I think it’s personal preference.

@BriscosmotorsportsLLC

7 ай бұрын

@@TaySprays okay. I’m going to be doing the way you did here. Wish me luck

@TaySprays

7 ай бұрын

No luck needed. Just take your time and be thorough. Email me pics of your finished product, I’d love to see how it comes out.

Where are you located and what’s the cost of something like this on a 2016 M3?

@TaySprays

5 ай бұрын

Hey Luis I’m in south Florida (ft Lauderdale area). Shoot me an email at TAYSPRAYS@gmail.com and we can go over what your car needs.

What did u use to remove imperfections after the clear coat?

@TaySprays

5 ай бұрын

There’s a few different steps, and multiple tools. I start off using a 1000 grit sanding stone. From there I progress to 2000 grit wet sand paper by hand, then finish the sanding process with 3000 grit on a da sander. Then polish back to perfection. 👌