Hey guys, for popping sound during startup use the scheme bellow. If you are using this blue amplifier circuit like in video, then remove the heat-sink to have access to chip itself, then find PIN21 (MUTE) (if you use different amplifier board then look at the datasheet to find which pin is MUTE or STBY). In this PCB PIN21 (MUTE) and PIN20 (STAND-BY) are connected together and are powered all the time (be careful that those two pins are powered using additional 3.3V regulator - do not apply +12V!). So cut +12V trace in front of 3.3V regulator and add this simple delay circuit in front. Feed +12V to delay circuit from Remote wire of BM54 (PIN13 or PIN16 depending on model). So it means that during startup Stand-by mode will be activated for half of a second to eliminate popping sounds. Also advantage of using Remote wire is that amplifiers will enter Stand-by mode when music is turned off, so it will have low power consumption when car is off and locked. 1drv.ms/u/s!AglExuJSVvhVjcpgSaULAqzA4Z82rA 1drv.ms/u/s!AglExuJSVvhVjd0zb1MAEz3oTjjXXg?e=kHN7yq 1drv.ms/u/s!AglExuJSVvhVjd00mjFRVnQUPgIBOg?e=VHehSc

@tristenkelly3408

4 жыл бұрын

Can you make a video on this?

@MrPiry91

4 жыл бұрын

Hi Andrius, thank you for the help, I am trying to find out how to fix this popping and generation sound, can you please share a video about it? it would be a great help in fixing bm54. Thanks for the help!

@johnnydaab2973

4 жыл бұрын

Hello bro, The video is great but I have a small question, how many are the maximum watts I can use and will the module last if I put 2 X 120W. My idea is that I have Heartz speakers that are up to 120W. And would this scheme work? www.aliexpress.com/item/33028529822.html Or would you recommend another one that has a MUTE function so that it does not waste current. Thanks in advance! P.S. my English is bad; D

perfekt guide, i did this and it worked perfect. watch out when you fasten the amplifier modules so they dont short on the back solder! :)

Hi Andrius. Nice visual guide ! A quick note here, which would hopefully help people performing this operation: there seems to be no mentioning of the clip detection signal that should be fed back from the TDAs to the BM54 board and the mode select signal that should be sent from the BM54 to the TDAs (which would switch the TDAs into standby, mute or "on" states). We usually use a different TDA in our kits, which provides the above mentioned signals.

5 жыл бұрын

Hi, yes you are right

Great one. thank you for sharing in my channel.

Помощь актуальная и незаменимая !!!!👍👍👍1000%

Great video! I successfully done everything that you instructed in the video. Installed the BM54 in the car and the radio sounded better than before. Unfortunately, the next day no sound is coming out of the speakers anymore. It seems like the amp is muted. How do I unmute the TDA7492? I already uninstalled the BM54 again and let it seat overnight. Installed it again the next day. Still no sound. Please help.

Hi guys, when I was soldering the cable to the back of the surface mounted capacitor I applied too much heat and the component came off the board and is very awkward to solder back on. Does anyone know what type of capacitor it is so I can substitute it for something a bit easier to work with? Is the capacitor actually serving any function or can it be omitted?

the speaker wires did not come with the 2 new modules, what else do i need?

This is awesome. Many thanks. It’s working well with radio but cs changer doesn’t play sound any more and AUX is very extremely faint. Any suggestions?

@AndrisInHD

2 ай бұрын

hi, did you manage to solve your issue - having the same problem. aux faint and full of static

I am driving bmw e46 touring with hifi minound system. Will it work on nyd?

i try my radio on the bench and is working fine for 20 min. and then it shuts of. is there any solution to make radio always on ? thanks

My Rear Right speaker not working after module installation you could suggest me what to do ?

Hi Andrius Čiginskas, really great video! Would the TDA7492P bluetooth also work? Or does it have to be the TDA7492D?

6 жыл бұрын

Hi, you can use any of audio amplifiers it will work if you connect it this way.

@amauryjustin

6 жыл бұрын

Hi, how did it work for you with the TDA7492P, I’m thinking to do the same but wonder if it works the same way ?

5 жыл бұрын

Hello, it will work with any amplifier. You can even take bare single or double channel TDA chip and solder all the wires.

I am with hifi system. Will this “hack” work on my car?

Hi, between the two black chips are three components... and I lack the top one (I still have the two close to the border of the PCB). Can someone tell me what is this missing component? Type, value, etc.

5 жыл бұрын

Hi, sorry, i do not own this car anymore so could not check that.

PLEASE HELP: After all mount I have a great sound on radio but in CD and cassete (where I play MP3) it whines and get worst with the engine running. On some CD's the voice of the singer is very low. In the vídeo above there is one thing that is a bit confuse: In the Picture of the amplifiers the schematic shows inn one side FL GN FR and on the other RL GN RR, on the solder section it shows in one side FL GN RL and in the other FR GN RR. which one is correct?

@gocekipro1305

5 жыл бұрын

When you cut the three traces for speaker, you have go too deep in the board.The board have three lays of cooper traces. You have damaged the traces in the middle of the board.I do the same mistake.That is the reason for winning and buzzing noise when turn on the lights in my case.Also no CD, AUX and TAPE.Now I don t now how can i fix that. its very tiny traces.

5 жыл бұрын

Hello, It is double sided PCB, so there are no traces in the middle of the pcb and it is not possible to cut anything too deep. Buzzing sound comes from some noise in power supply circuit etc.., you can try using some power supply filters, try looking for "ENGINE NOISE SUPPRESSOR FILTER"

hi, first of all, thanks a loot for this video. there is just one thing, I ordered the high amps but they have just a white, red and black cable. the ones we see in your video in the middle or the video were not included. next question is, what should I do with the black wire of the amp? sorry for the question, I never did such things before and I am probably gonna ruin my module :) cheers

@nikolaroma

5 жыл бұрын

not a job for you

5 жыл бұрын

Hello, black wire is GND, solder it on to the metal shield near the input signals.

I have problem with crackling noise when powering the system on and off.Same AMP like in your vid,same way connected.Have you same problem?Thanx for answer.

5 жыл бұрын

Hi, for this issue i have used some delay circuit (simple transistor with few resistors and capacitor) on standby PIN. It means that all speakers will be muted for half o a second when you start the car.

@asdf4287

4 жыл бұрын

@ can you show us where is that standby pin? I have the same issue

4 жыл бұрын

asdf4287 Hi, check my pinned posts at the top of comment section here.

Hello l have a different board from yours I need a different source for power for amplifier! Can you help me

5 жыл бұрын

Hi, what do you mean different source for power?

Hi, will this repair also work for a Becker BM 53?

6 жыл бұрын

It should work if PCB is the same.

Hi! Have You link, where You shopped this kit or name? Thank You :-)

7 жыл бұрын

Jan Žežulka m.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m4084.l1313&_nkw=2+x+50+watt+tda7492+d+class+high+power+digital+amplifier+board

Sveikas. Nudegė mano mb54 blokelis (dalinai) ir nusprendžiau kad dėsiu 4-kanalį ir visus komponentus, o tas blokelis tik kaip valdymas ir rca line out liks. Tai vat, jungsiu kaip video nurodei per kondikus, bet ar nereikia nieko daugiau nukarpyt? Pačių mikroschemų nereiki išimt?

5 жыл бұрын

Sveikas, as takelius karpiau, kad būtų lengviau. O šiaip gali arba nupjauti visus takelius arba tieiog išlupti visą tą seną mikroschemą, kad plokštėje liktų skyle. Abiem atvejais rezultatas bus tas pats.

Long shot any one know the size of the Smd capacitor the the white and red wire go to I some how snapped mine

I tested the amp with started engine end it whines and cracks,when i step on the gas it sounds like fuxing jet :D Some help?Ground loop problem?

@JoaoRodrigues-cj4yv

6 жыл бұрын

did you fix it? how? i've the same problem as you

@indriti632

6 жыл бұрын

Have u fixed this?

5 жыл бұрын

Hi, try to use power supply+12V and GND wires as thick as possible or maybe use some power supply filters, try looking for "ENGINE NOISE SUPPRESSOR FILTER".

@mcmaus321

4 жыл бұрын

I just buy Xtrons Android radio with Resler Interface and ibus app.And All the original audio,gps,cd things throw away...

Thx for video. But i try those tda7492 amp and there is distorsion, whining and poping like hell, even if i tested them . But in final i made a little different solution. With no cut to board.I desolder original amps from board, take pre amp input signal and make rca out. Now i am using external amp Alpine 3552(powered VCC and GND directly from battery) and ACC (remote) from cable conector to radio. No distorsion,No whining, No poping... just clear sound (Tape, cd changer, Navi volume, BMW raspcontroll ....everithing same volume level). BTW: If someone else try this be carefull with strong AMP because 1st time i forget that amp is set to max output power, then i put volume up and both rear speakers just......boom :D.

4 жыл бұрын

Jiří Varga Hey, thank you for sharing!

@JV-qx7vl

4 жыл бұрын

​@ Sorry my english is bad, but maybe i will make some photo when i will have some time :-) More info....when i desolder original amps i also trace a soldering point for input signal to amp. there are 2 other parts in the trace after those capacitators what you use as soldering point. With my solution i use last point where i can solder cables right before amp. Also there is on the board another trace comming to the amp input line and i think that is BT,CD changer and AUX signal and if i Iam right i think it may cause signal lose if people use those capacitators as output signal (But it is only my gues i dont have equipment to prove it....maybe it is because amps are gone, maybe because i use different points......dont know ....but it work :) ). BTW i have work in progres on some internal amp to use with mute function :)

Turiu Vilniuje 2 naujus modulius (TDA7492 D Class High-Power Digital Amplifier Board 2x50W AMP). Kad nereiketu laukti is kinieciu. Jei kam reiks susiraskit fb mane.

@dominykasgrigaitis7101

4 жыл бұрын

Sveikas, gal dar turi? Nerandu taves fb

I applied this system to hello but I hop hopping the car of the car. The sound of pop comes out of the same contact.

5 жыл бұрын

Hi, for this issue i have used some delay circuit (simple transistor with few resistors and capacitor) on standby PIN.

I did this and now reading comments...Really hope I won't have problems like others ,will report tommorow.

@nikolaroma

5 жыл бұрын

Unfortunately as soon as I connect amplifier speakers have noise like they gonna explode

5 жыл бұрын

But can you hear your music playing or it is only noise? Might be some power supply noise. Try to use +12V and GND wires as thick as possible or maybe use some power supply filters, try looking for "ENGINE NOISE SUPPRESSOR FILTER"

thenkju

5 жыл бұрын

Good luck

Sveikas gal yra lietuvoje kur nupirkti tuos stiprintuvelius? kad nereiketu siustis is ebay

6 жыл бұрын

Nelabai tokiu mačiau, taip pat ir kaina čia bus kita manau.

If you have problem with crackling noise, whining or etc. check the power cable (+12V) connection points - it should be soldered after inductor (Red dots on right side)! If you will solder them on left and red side (before and after inductor) you will have this weird sounds. Sound will also change with engine RPM, so this is the solution. Hope this helps! Jei garsas iš kolonėlių traška, švilpia, o gal išvis kosminis garsas, tuomet greičiausiai pajungėte blogai +12V linija. Būtinai perlituokite +12V kontaktus į dešinę pusę po ritės (induktoriaus), foto raudoni burbuliukai dešinėje: vienas viršuje, kitas apačioje. Jei sulituosite laidus: vienas prieš induktorių, kitas po - turėsite keistų garsų problemą! Sėkmės!

Also this post might be helpful: www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1086953

5.555 :))))

Cutting the traces for the speakers should be cut off somewhere else. Because this way you can damage other traces in the middle of the board, which are under the traces for the speakers

5 жыл бұрын

Hello, Is only double sided PCB. There are now traces in the middle, only top and bottom.

@beatadrozdz5958

4 жыл бұрын

@ Hi. You're wrong! There are many paths on the middle layer. This pcb has 4 layers. That's why I damaged the amplifier :(

Sveiki, turiu kaip tik gavęs iš aliexpress (2 x 50W TDA7492 Class D High-Power Digital Amplifier Board Amp W/ Radiator Amplifier Module), atiduosiu už savikainą, jei kam reikia: rašykit (+37060666555) arba FB

sveikas, noriu pasidaryt rca išėjimus is radijos pre-amp signalo, gal galetum patarti nuo kur jį paimti? arba parasyk man i el paštą jagstang.t@gmail.com

7 жыл бұрын

Tadas Šalkauskas Sveikas, čia kaip suprantu nori papildomą stiprintuvą statytis (žemų dažnių garsiakalbiui), audio signalus gali paimti nuo tų pačių kondensatorių parodytų video.

@tadassalkauskas1165

7 жыл бұрын

Andrius Čiginskas jo, as turiu Mosconi stiprintuvą, noriu ji pasijungt, naudosiu komponentus priekyj ir suba gale.. o kai išvesiu RCA išėjimus, reikia atjungti vidinius stiprintuvus?

7 жыл бұрын

Tadas Šalkauskas Jeigu nori pilnai pakeisti esamus stiprintuvo modulius į savo išorinį stiprintuvą, tai juos reikia atjungti.

@tadassalkauskas1165

7 жыл бұрын

Andrius Čiginskas dekuj, geras video.. dar vienas dalykas, pas mane jau yra dingęs garsas dešinėje pusėje ir priekyj ir gale, tai paėmus pre-amp irgi tas pats bus? ar cia tik tų vidiniu stiprintuvu klaida?

7 жыл бұрын

Tadas Šalkauskas Čia tik vidinių stiprintuvų klaida, paėmus pre-amp signalą nuo kondensatorių ir paleidus jį per išorinį stiprintuvą turėtų veikti visi 4 kanalai.

What a mess