Black Diamond Presents: Retro Modern-Part 4: The Big Smile
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Follow BD Athlete Sam Elias and next-level boulderer, 9a sport climber, and highballing master Timmy Kang as they rebolt a Chris Sharma masterpiece: The Big Smile (5.14b).
“There’s a caretaking that needs to happen now with old routes,” explains BD athlete Sam Elias. And that’s where this story begins. But what transpires in this four-part series by Sam and documentary filmmaker Mike Call goes deeper than the new bolts drilled into stone. Through the resurrection of classic, historic routes, a meaningful, impactful connection is made between old and new generations. This is RetroModern, a series breathing new life into the storied past and bright future of climbing.
Пікірлер: 16
Wow, lots of legends on this video...great job you guys at BD!!! Keep it up!
Sam and Tim video you know I’m clicking on it
Nice work Sam, loving this concept and the themes like community, connection, reciprocity and respect you're bringing through these stories. Keeping it real.
Love these videos and the history!
I love this series ❤️
What a great video!!
Great video, thanks for climbing destination ideas
sick series
Crazy to think this was originally called 14a. According to the Darth Grader, V9 straight into V9, then a rest followed by another V9 gets you a low-end 14d!
Just curious (I've never bolted anything) ...if you are using glue on the new bolts, why not just take the old bolts out and glue the new ones in those old holes? Also, the new bolts look quite a bit smaller and thinner, what's the deal with that? Why glue?
@tiimmaaayyy
Ай бұрын
Not 100% on this, but I think what I understood was that we shouldn’t assume what is already up is safe. At least on this route, we approached each new bolt to place it best for quality of rock and to not get in the way of the climbing. As for the newer bolts and their look, I think the technology just happens to make it look thinner. They expand in the hole as you tighten, and the glue just reinforces/fills empty space! Some of the bolts we removed were honestly thinner, the nuts were already coming off, and some of the rock wasn’t the greatest. Wild perspective for me haha.
@vule92994
Ай бұрын
@@tiimmaaayyy "They expand in the hole as you tighten, and the glue just reinforces/fills empty space!" Just friendly reminder the glue never goes with expansion bolts... good free info is bolting bible by hownot2
@user-xt4ip8un5m
Ай бұрын
these are twist bolts made by a guy called Jim Titt. HowNot2Highline have done tests on these and they break north of 70kn in shear and tension. It's like comparing a 1980s computer to the processing power of a modern iphone. Resin anchors (this one looks like vinylester, the strongest is epoxy) are also stronger than the rock itself. When they do pull tests on these bolts the rock around the bolt and glue shatters before the bolt pulls
nice video, but is it sponsored by DeWalt? ;-)
Cool video, cool climb but the commentary gets a bit pretentious. It's not like you are profoundly changing people's lives for the better. Just say I like climbing and I wanted to do this, and that's cool.
@mattmcnick
26 күн бұрын
lol welcome to a sam elias video