Thanks for the video. Currently building from parts an outcast v2 4S and hope to include these upgrades.

I acknowledge people love the RC AWD, M2C Racing, and even Vitavon stuff. However I find that those upgrades equal to more than a new RC, and for me as a working guy, can't justify those prices myself. I'm pretty much a hard core jennysrc kinda guy. Plus I know the stuff fits, and requires no modding. At end of day, do what works for you. I like affordable RCing myself.

I put the M2C motor mount on my Outcast and I haven't had any issues with my slipper clutch. I did the chassis brace as well and even after countless backflips there has been no breakage. 🤓

Great tips and awesome bash!

@RazorRC

9 ай бұрын

Thanks, the M2C chassis brace is a must-have game changer!

good timing! I just got my kraton 4s v2. Did the bash bar upgrade. I was looking at that alum center driveshaft since, I cracked mine.

@RazorRC

9 ай бұрын

It seems good. It's harder to take out though, really the only downside.

Great car and track

Love the consistency of your vids, especially the #razortuned episodes. Where exactly is this spot? I'm in the south bay (Almaden) and this place looks pretty amazing.

I agree the m2s chassis brace is the first upgrade I recommend lll

Razor rc am always watching Your KZread video and yet you guys awesome.where is that spot you played so far?

I have kept my kraton v1 gonna start upgrading it would of liked the v2 but ended up getting kraton 6s

I just ordered the m2c motor mount for the v2.5 kraton, says you can use bigger motors. I want to put a 8bl150 ESC in it, it be nice if the matching 42mm can would fit in it

Is the the version 2.5 also what is the best servo and servo saver upgrade possible

Can you put the outcast wheelie bar in the kraton 4s v2? And can you put the new center diff module in the kraton/ outcast 4sv2?

After too many 6s runs, and breaking the Outcast 4sv2 chassis, I decided to rebuild as a Kraton. I went with: • Blx185 6s ESC (UPGRADE COMING SOON) • @RCMadLabz performance chassis brace. • #CRCU aluminum diff outdrive cups • #HotRacing Direct Drive aluminum Servo saver (modified for full steering clearance) • HR reinforced aluminum center driveshaft & bearing adapter for The #ARRMA additional driveshaft bearing support. • #AliExpress steering bellcrank, wheels & tires • #HobbyPark all metal 35kg servo • Chassis modifications for larger battery, longitudinal battery straps, & 6s ESC mounted between motor & radio box. • @3dRC bumper springs • Translucent red roof skids for the blue body • 40mm server motor fan • 26mm server ESC fan And most recently a full set of lights from @PoloCreations. • Extra shock spacers & Stock motor on a 12t pinion to deal withthe added weight... • RCAWD spiral cut rear diff • Amazon special aluminum diff yokes • (EVEN MORE UPGRADES COMING SOON) I may go back to the stock center driveshaft if I can find a good solution for protecting it. But I probably went waay too far with upgrades. A properly adjusted slipper would save a lot of composite drive line parts.

Razor, I think that aluminum drive shaft for my kraton is a smart upgrade, does this work well? I want to pick one up

Alloy Yoke: yes, you can try it. Slipper-Replacement: I dont think its stronger as stock. Oktay 7075 slipper is better as stock. (Arrma 4s v2 slipper sleeve ring can be mounted on arrma 3s and 4s v1 also, this is a nice upgrade). Alloy Center Driveshaft: I dont need it, and it has some disadvantages maybe too (a bit more weight, stones can be stuck and destroy other parts as some plastic from the driveshaft).

@Krapper515

9 ай бұрын

Yeah I agree. I haven't heard of any of these issues other than from Razor (not saying he's wrong or anything, just don't think these upgrades will apply to most) other than the chassis. I've watched almost every video on the internet on these 4S rigs and never heard of the slipper hub or diff yokes breaking, always only ONLY the chassis. And Kevin Talbot broke a hinge pin/arm. But that's usually the extent of damages

@RcPlayer-tt2vw

9 ай бұрын

Ya they pretty good stock even the 3s guys until you 4s I had no issues with plastic diffs , a whole plastic diff with yoke is super cheap so unless money no issues or just like do upgrades not needed imo , my outcast annoying in my yard I have geared high with 4075 can motor handles like crap hard to get power to ground , I just rod did my typhon set up for the yard all I need rips goes where I put it maxx outcast 4s have be worse handling trucks ever made made for bad drivers in wide open areas 😂

@runnerbaba

9 ай бұрын

@@Krapper515 Slipper is still a problem!! Just these tiny slipper sleeve ring makes it a bit stronger, but it is still weak arrma alloy. And diff yokes dont break! Diff Yokes out of alloy are there to eliminate the "flex" between piniongear and crowngear at heavy landings and so on, where the plastic could maybe flex and set the gear-mesh at an bad angle or something like that.

Razor man😈 your riDDim sounds like you do not use tobbaco or a roach tip😏 The kraton is I think sick in this size as you can get all the trick and flips out more easier than the 1/8 Its like dynamite this size kraton The Rcawd parts should help out a lot over stock parts💥

How does your RCAWD Slipper Set center? I just got mine and I noticed I had to make sure it was centered before tightening together or else when its spins, it misses the spur completely.

@edygome

9 ай бұрын

Took me a while to realize but the slipper clutch was missing the bearing. RCAWD costumer service was pretty good. Prompt response and sent me another one.

Hey man did you actually order that stuff or did they send it to ya? Just wondering because I’ve been trying to order couple things from them for like 45 minutes and the website keeps spitting me out. If you’re in contact with them wouldn’t hurt to let them know they’re loosing business because of it. Sorry man just kinda bent right now. You always make good videos though!! 👍

@RazorRC

9 ай бұрын

I got this several months back.

Not nessosary upgrades) driveshaft is noisy and heavier, it can destroy other part. Slipper is not so good as stock, it is better to use from it only rear part (near driveshaft). Pins good, stock have problems (short).. m2c didnt help, because deck mostıy crash in other place. Most nessosary upgrades- metall rear c habs, good stripes, motor frame spacer m2c or hr, chassis brace like oktay or rcmadlabz, 6s shocks not bad (stock is ok), front shock tower brace)

Aluminum driveshaft is a TERRIBLE idea. I am still running my original factory plastic for 3 years. Yes it’s chewed up ALOT. It looks like a piece of spun pottery. But it spins true, is very sturdy and I’ve never felt the need to put in the new replacement I bought years ago, when I thought the chewing would eventually break it. EVERYONE that has installed an aluminum driveshaft on the 3s/4s line in the Arrma forum has bent it and gone back to plastic. I am predicting you will too. You gain nothing, makes maintenance more difficult, will bend, is MUCH more expensive. So WHY? (Because you got paid to.) If the slipper really resists rear cracking, I’m very interested, keep us updated. Rear aluminum yoke is definitely a necessary upgrade to save the rear diff once you’re jumping high enough.

I have a new product for this platform if your interested in trying it out.

@OlExtraRegularBass

9 ай бұрын

Upload a video.

Will that chassis brace work on the fireteam

@RazorRC

9 ай бұрын

no