Beautifully done setup! I am looking at doing some experiments with these as well and truly appreciate the excellent overview you provided!

Woooow! That's my DREAM setup! Just ordered a 1000 W board, like 2nd you showed (the one you haven't used ) appreciate the tips, will make sure n add thermal paste in back of mosfit, cant wait to melt some gold! Appreciate your hard work n dedication!!!

Thank you for sharing this video. I want to buy one of these units to do some silver soldering/brazing for some detail work at my job. I was doubtful of the unit's capabilities when running for extended periods, but it appears with the proper cooling it held up well... really surprised me. Thank you again.

Excellent video. Thank you for sharing. You mentioned caution using heatsink compound because of it being conductive. I Googled it and found that heatsink compound is usually not conductive.

@frenchcreekvalley

6 жыл бұрын

Thanks for your kind words. I guess I read that somewhere and didn't check it out. I did find that the some of the silver-bearing heatsink compounds do or can have some capacitive effects, though. Still not a good idea to have it touch conductors. I did find some questions about copper-bearing heatsink compounds , but not definitive.

Hello Shuf Lee Two reasons "not to put the workpiece in the coil before turning on the supply" come to mind: 1. Using a switched mode power supply 2. Not knowing how much current the work piece will draw from the system. If you already know that the work piece won't draw more than the system can handle, it is okay to turn the power supply on and off with a relay. However, Switched mode power supplies don't come up to full power immediately when they are powered up. So, if you supply power to the input of a switched mode supply while it is already connected to the load, the induction heater circuit can "lock up" with the Mosfets on and they will be destroyed. There are several youtube videos that show this effect. To solve that problem, they turn the power supply on first, then close a switch between the power supply and the induction heater. So, in your case, if you ARE using a switched mode power supply, you could put your relay in the output leads of the power supply while leaving the power supply connected to the mains. This means that your relay must be able to handle the current going to the induction heater. See: kzread.info/dash/bejne/ZIGNlcZ6e7vTes4.html

Hello John. The short answer is that the crucible gets hots because, as a conductor of electricity, current is induced by the changing magnetic field from the induction heater's work coil. This current produces a magnetic field of its own which resists the source field. This "friction" is what make it heat up. "A long time to heat" is a relative thing. More expensive induction heaters can have circuits that adjust the power to keep it high without blowing out the system. This one does not have those circuits, so it just puts out all it can. I have to select a coil type and shape that limits the current so it never goes too high. I hope this helps.

I used a 75 kw system that did about the same as what you are doing. This was 28 years ago. I used it to forge a set of titanium pry bars.

Yes, John, you make good points. But since I'm tapping off the batteries at 12 volt intervals, 3 isolated 12 volt chargers or a 36 volt charger. But take a look at my 48 volt video. I am still working my way slowly up toward the 1000 watt mark. I have decided to stay below about 22 amps or so for now and concentrate on dropping the frequency to see if I can improve power transfer to the ferrous materials better. I now know that I can get the current up any time I want by installing a smaller diameter work coil but my present setup doesn't make it easy to change coils.

Subbed..... Your methods are excellent! Love your Website... Thanks for the tip on the fiberglass insulation tubing..

@frenchcreekvalley

4 жыл бұрын

Thank you for your kind words.

HOW GREAT . Thanks... I wish i had seen this before.

What better purpose to life than love and experimentation. Learning by doing is the key to staying young.

Excellent setup and explanation. I just bought this same kit and want to use it to remove nails from old barn wood. Heat up the nail red and pull it out. Using much smaller diameter coils (3/8"), and will only run for a few seconds at a time. Nails are completely sunk into the planks, so I'm going to try a transverse coil that sits above and below target nail. I'll advise you how well it works.

Regarding circuit breaker sizing: Yes, Alex Z, I have gone through the same mental processes that you did. I think my 20 amp automotive type circuit breaker is plenty for now. I have also heard that it is not good practice to use a circuit breaker as a switch anyway, so having a separate switch is a good idea. The Bussman 20 amp "short stop" automotive circuit breaker datasheet shows that it trips at almost 200 percent of rated current after 15 seconds!!! So, maybe even a 15 amp breaker of that design (Series 12X) would be okay for this application. I am no expert on circuit breakers. But I do have a number of small Onan 120/240 volt generator sets that use them. The breakers that come with those machines trip MUCH faster on overcurrent than do the breakers that you'd find in your house. My point is that a person could probably spend a lot of time figuring out exactly which breaker to use and when.

Hey buddy, yeah I fully agree with the mosfets not having any thermal paste, iv had many of these zvs drivers and never have they put any on!! Makes a difference in the workings of the unit. Great video mate thanks for sharing, 👍👍👍👍👍THUMBS UP👍👍👍👍👍 Anthony High1voltage1rules P.S iv subscribed 😁👍

Thanks for this, very helpful. Could you tell me what material your work coil sleeving is ?

@frenchcreekvalley

7 ай бұрын

Insulating Sleeving and insulating flat stock for my induction heating experiments: Φ1~40mm White 600°C HIGH TEMP Fiberglass Sleeving Wire Cable Insulating Tube www.ebay.com/itm/153050276433 I usually order the 6mm sleeving. It is flexible enough to fit easily over the 1/4" O.D. copper tubing that I use for most coils. I did buy some 8mm sleeving at one time and it works okay, but is a little loose on that tubing. Update, 3/1/2021: Back in 2019, I did order some smaller sizes of sleeving when I was doing the cartridge casing anneal project. I got some for 3/16" OD tube and some for 1/8" OD tube. I also got some ceramic sleeving from: www.mettleworks.com/hot/index.html

Bang up job sir!

you just saved me of a lot of work . no good in melting metals . thnx a lot :) stay safe

@frenchcreekvalley

4 жыл бұрын

The 2500 watt model can melt 500 grams of copper easily.

@x1x4x1

4 жыл бұрын

@@frenchcreekvalley im in to building it myself ; hate to spend money when i know i can doit myself .in case i fail, thnx for the tip :)

Thanks for this detailed presentation. Looks like forging may not be in the cards, but quenching steel seems possible. Would like to have seen if you could have melted some metal in the crucible, aluminum perhaps?

@frenchcreekvalley

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you for your kind words. Go Here: www.spaco.org/Blacksmithing/ZVSInductionHeater/ZVS-Induction-Heater-Video-List.xlsx for a complete list of all my ZVS induction heater videos. You will see many of them where I have melted metals. You will also see videos where I make some very specialized coils that might, maybe work for forging some specific things.

Thank you for sharing this video

Hello again, and thanks for another outstanding video. I am working with induction heaters and have started with the small 120W model you showed first. I hooked it up to a 12v 5Ah lead acid battery that read 12.7v, so I put two 45v 10A solar cell diodes in the input terminals to drop it to just under 12v. I first tries heating a paper clip that turned red in a second or two, I was very impressed. I then tries a small jeweler's screwdriver, which heated fast also, but no red glow. When I inserted a hacksaw blade, the surface mount MOSFET (Q2) immediately blew to bits! I spent about two hours desoldering parts so I could replace both FETs with TO-220 pack IRF44Z's. Now all seems to be fixed! I would like to ask you where to get that white insulating sleeving that you use on your coils. Also, I have always put heat sink grease on bare sinks. I have had a can of this heat sink silicon for about 20 years, and it seems to still work like new. Do you think I should replace it?? Thanks again, and looking forward to seeing more of your videos.

@frenchcreekvalley

5 жыл бұрын

Thank you for your kind words. The sleeving that I use is here: www.ebay.com/itm/1meter-Manhattan-F240-2AWG-6-68mm-240-C-Fiberglass-high-temperature-sleeving/161643155584?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Yes, I think your heatsink compound will still be okay. I was surprised to see the high Rds(on) of the IRF422. (1.1 ohm) What type of Mosfet was in there originally?

If you are asking if I have tried the board that has only 2 capacitors, the answer is "no". I will get to it one of these days. I am guessing that the resonant Frequency (Fres) will be up at about 200 KHz. If it is that high or higher, it may be useful to see if that higher frequency heats any of my non ferrous test samples more efficiently than at hower frequencies.

If I had to heat a bunch of horseshoe nails, I think I'd carefully choose a graphite crucible, then slowly fill it with the nails, head down. Then, simply take the hottest nail out as you need it, replacing it with a cold nail. I think it would work well that way. Depends a bit on the size of the nail. I'd guess that a #10 weighs about twice as much as a #5. (I use both for crafty stuff) You need to watch several of my other induction heating videos to understand the term "carefully choose". Write me back if that doesn't make sense to you, but, since you are dealing with iron, you will have to account for high system currents when you put several cold parts into the crucible. But, in summary, I think it would be a great application.

Thank you so much for making this very informative video ! You have certainly contributed to our existence. I have a radiator system in my home and would like to begin use of induction converting from gas in the near future. Im aware i would need to install steel piping at the induction section (assuming the existing piping is not steel). my question is, what size diameter coil would be efficient for the size piping I have (which I dont know at the moment) is there a scale reference you use? also, I want to convert a 1000w induction cook top for this purpose using the temperature adjustments and switch the pancake coil for this type coil, is there any issue that might arise from such a conversion ? Thanks.

@frenchcreekvalley

5 жыл бұрын

Starting with your last question first, changing from the pancake coil on an induction cook top, I suggest you go to: highvoltageforum.net/index.php?board=2.0 Find this post: Hacking the IKEA 2000 Watt induction stove (5 parts) This site's moderator goes into great detail about this sort of thing. I think you will find number of problems. Regarding coil size: I'd need to know a lot more about your application to even make a guess about coil diameter. diameter, number of turns, distance between turns and shape of the workpiece are all factors for "efficiency". But the coil design also can't be so efficient that it takes more power than the heater circuit can provide. Are you planning to heat a residence by this method?

In some other videos, it is especially advised not to put the workpiece in the coil before turning on the supply. Can you please explain why the reason could be? I wanted to put a relay in the supply so that device turns on or off below a desired threshold threshold.

Thank you ! 👍👍👍😊

Thanks for sharing.

Good day I have one more question. You can heat up the graphite crucible in red and for what time. Thank you Sukdolák

@frenchcreekvalley

2 жыл бұрын

See this video: kzread.info/dash/bejne/q4SszKtxldLfp7g.html At about minute 8, I remove the insulation from the top of the small crucible and you can see how hot it glows. In later videos, I use crucibles that have ceramic shells to melt metals with the 2500 watt unit. See this playlist for more about the 2500 watt ZVS induction heater: kzread.info/head/PLVxWen9M87dCeUnIhxueR0sJ9bvI2rbRJ

Not bad. If you go to my imsmoother site you will see that I built a 10kw induction heater for a blacksmith. My suggestion to you is to buy some thermal insulation material from Mcmaster-carr or some other site. You will drastically increase your temperature for the same energy input because it will minimize heat loss. You will see me insulating the inside of my work coil with this material in my videos.

@frenchcreekvalley

4 жыл бұрын

I agree that insulation is key to retain heat and I use it, to varying degrees in most of my newer induction heating videos.

@imsmoother

4 жыл бұрын

@@frenchcreekvalley I plan on building a ZVS with some of my spare parts. I'm going to use more robust mosfets. How high a current were you able to get with your setup before failure? Have you tried mosfets with a higher current and breakdown voltage?

@frenchcreekvalley

4 жыл бұрын

@@imsmoother This system can run at about 22 amps on a continuous basis. I haven't had any failures at this current level since I insulated the work coil to avoid shorting it wit the work. The IRFP260N works fine for me, so I have not tried any others. Again, if you look at my later videos, you will see that the 1800 and 2500 watt units simply parallel IRFP260N's to handle more current.

I also have this 1000W device for induction heating. Very much capacitors are heating me up - more than 80 degrees (in 15 minutes and longer I'm afraid to leave it on). How is it with you? Do you know what it could be? I have a voltage of 40V 15A. I'll melt the aluminum, but I haven't seen the graphite crucible hot yet. thank you for answer

@frenchcreekvalley

2 жыл бұрын

Yes, the capacitors do heat up because they are handling a lot of current. It is important to cool the whole circuit with a powerful fan that pushes the air downward onto the components. My capacitors get up to about 140 degrees F at the end of a 15 minute run.

@studioborosoft3973

2 жыл бұрын

moc vám děkuji za odpověď

JOHN, your temperature would be much improved if you insulate the outside of the crucible.

Finally after all that babbling @ 24:00 " Finally a Demonstration " > " Finally a Result " ! I'm Sure glad I Listened to all this !

After watching your video, I was considering using a 25A breaker to double as a switch. But upon doing more reading and discovering the Time-Current curves, it seems that most circuit breakers take up to 135% overcurrrent virtually without ever tripping, at a reasonable time at least. The 25A one ( W31-X2M1G-25) I looked up the datasheet for can take upwards of an hour. In fact, the difference in an operational current (e.g. 20A) and an unwanted spike (let's say 30A), doesn't seem to have a sweet spot because the difference is too small to allow a long time without the breaker tripping while on normal current levels versus a short tripping time for overcurrent (not including straight shorts). So would it make sense to use the circuit breaker purely as a protection against short circuits/huge overcurrents and rely on manually opening the breaker when the ammeter reads "slight" overcurrents (i.e. 30A)? In that case, wouldn't it be better to use a 15A breaker? According the the datasheet, running 135% overcurrent (~20A) will give you about an hour or more before tripping. Finally, would it be safe to continuously run circuit breakers between 100% and 135% of their rated current? I'm interested in your thoughts on this!

@Glasnot1

3 жыл бұрын

circuit breaker, fuse (fast blow) and resettable fuse have same characteristic, it drives the same way, the trip Amp is considered as double Amp of it specs @1min or less. so if you want to safely to make a quick trip of fuse / breaker, please use lower Amp of your max Amp of device.

I'm honored to watch your video, thank you veey much, I am planning to build this device as water boiler for a tea machine, it will run on 24v and it will only heat about 200ml at once, any suggestion about choosing the transistors and the the quantity of capacitors, and the coil should fit a standard size coffee cup, I've a basic knowledge in electronics, I need your advice on this project if you may. Liked and subbed for more great videos.. Thanks again 😊

@frenchcreekvalley

6 жыл бұрын

Thank you for your kind words, John. Here is my advice; Since the water won't be directly heated by this induction heater, you will have to use some sort of metallic/electrically conductive container. The container then will heat the water via conduction. I have not experimented with coils larger than about 2 inches ID. You will need a larger diameter coil than that hold a container, hopefully stainless steel, for your water. Note that copper or aluminum containers probably won't work here. See this one of my videos: Banggood ZVS 1000 Watt Induction Heater Mosfet Cooling & Insulated Crucible In this one I am testing a graphite crucible that probably holds one about 1/8 of a cup of water. It is probably the most relevant for your plan. I suggest simply locating a ferrous metal container big enough to hold that amount of water that you need. Then get a roll of 1/4" OD copper tubing at a "big box" store and wind a 6 turn coil that's about a half inch larger in diameter than the container, with its turn separeted by about the same amount as in the coil that comes with the induction heater. Be sure to insulate the coil so there's NO chance of shorting the coil windings with the container. Use the same 6 capacitors that come with the induction heater, for now. Hopefully you will use an ammeter in your power circuit. When you first turn the power on, note the amperage. It should be a few amps. Then, slowly lower your water container into the coil. If the current goes beyond about 20 amps, stop lowering the container into the coil. At this point you have a few of options. 1. Build some kind of non conductive base to hold your container at that level within the coil. Since you aren't heating the water above the boiling point, a piece of wood should be okay. 2. Try spreading the coil turns farther apart 3. Wind a new coil with a larger diameter in a attempt to reduce the coupling between coil and work so the current doesn't exceed about 20 amps when the container is all the way into the coil. -------------------------------------------- I wish I could be more definitive in these words.

@masaratech

6 жыл бұрын

Frenchcreekvalley .frenchcreekvalley well I understood every word you said and it's great suggestions, I will start my project and I will keep you updated sir, thanks again and I really do appreciate your efforts and hope to payback some day.. Have nice day sir. 🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂

Frenchcreekvalley Have you done any work on the second one since this video? The one you said you didn't power up yet? I got one like that and I am not getting it to heat up anything very hot. I am using a computer power supply. 12V. First coil was 9 turns 1" diameter. Measured it at 1.1uH. The mosfets got really hot. I put on thermal paste after that and tried another coil 1.75" diameter, 8 turns. This measures at 2.1uH After a minute the mosfets get relatively hot but not as hot as the other coil. I suspect they will fail if I continue for a longer period. Both coils were made from solid strands taken from a armoured cable. Any suggestions on how I can get this to heat up something properly?

@frenchcreekvalley

6 жыл бұрын

You caught me! No, I still haven't powered up my "20A 1000Watt" ZVS induction heater with only 2 capacitors. My main suggestion is to get some sort of amp meter, so you can see what is actually going on with the circuit. But in the meantime, you should measure the actual voltage that is getting to the induction heater. That board will want to draw 20 amps under load and, maybe, 2 to 5 amps just "idling". If your power supply can't supply that much current and drops below 11 volts, usually one or the other of the Mosfets will latch up and eventually burn out. Also, at only 12 volts to the circuit, the Mosfet gate waveforms will be very poor, which means that the Mosfets won't turn fully on very quickly. That means that they will be operating in the "linear mode" which they are NOT meant to do. This will cause them to heat up considerably and very likely could cause your problem. If you can't tell if your 12 volt power supply can handle the current, substitute a 12 volt car battery and see what happens. You really do need to use copper tubing and get some water cooling for the coil. I'd also strongly suggest a fan for the board if you intend to run the system for more than a couple of minutes at a time. In the USA, we use 1/4" OD soft copper tubing for these coils.

@manickn6819

6 жыл бұрын

I have 5/6 copper tubing for AC work. I was trying to get it functional before I worry about the coil overheating. That does not overheat actually. I have meters but they only go to 10A. Lost a fuse on a fluke 8 years ago trying to measure a motor. Running current was well under 10A but startup was over. darn thing was expensive and difficult to find locally. Since then I am paranoid to connect a meter to test amps. I can do the AC side easily with a clamp on and do some quick and dirty calcs. I will check the voltage powered but being a computer power supply I expect it will not drop a lot. These are switchmode and regulated. If shorted it will trip and shut off the unit. The label says 20A but chinese ratings are really not trustworthy. I did try a car battery but it was one I took out of the car since it was not starting the car. Still has 12V on it and this is a lot less than cranking amps so maybe it works. If I am successful I will post a video. I want to do some frequency measurements too.

Very cool

HI, have you managed to hook uo second one on your list?

why does the crucible get hot? it is taking a long time to heat.

May I ask If you have to recommend a size for a zvs for case anealing, would it be the 1000W of would it be bigger 1800/2500W typical models ? Kind regards

@frenchcreekvalley

28 күн бұрын

The 1000 watt unit will work quite well for this application. See: kzread.info/dash/bejne/mWp7qK-pirjAZ84.html This video shows the small 3 layer, 3 turn work coil that does an excellent job being powered by the ZVS 1000 watt induction heater running on 48 volts.

@stephanc7192

28 күн бұрын

@@frenchcreekvalley Thank you very much. Appreciated! Would the 1000W unit be your preference if you would build your new ultimate anealer?

@frenchcreekvalley

28 күн бұрын

@@stephanc7192 Yes it would be my preference. But I don't do any reloading myself. I did the research based on requests from guys who do their own reloading. And, since then, I have seen several youtube videos of folks building their own annealer using the 1000 watt units that you see in many of my videos.

Hi, nice videos. I am about to start with my own. I was only going to use a smallish tank to pump water to and from, but now i see your more elaborate cooling system with the heat exchanger, i am going to rethink that. I will rewatchbyour video, but what would be very useful would be to give a few measurements about how much heat is heing sent to the cooling system. Like what is your pump rated at, or actually pumping? Be easy to measure: just time how fast it pumps into a known size. And then need to know temperature of water going into and then out of the heat exchanger. And then say what volts and amps you were running at. If you do this for a few times can make an efficiency curve for heating/cooling. Not exact, but useful.

@frenchcreekvalley

5 жыл бұрын

The pump I use runs on 12 volts DC and takes about 1 amp. It is rated at 2.1 GPM. But that's at a pretty low head, like one foot or so, which works fine for me. My whole system holds about one gallon of water. The specs say it can handle 100 degree C water. It's this one: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DWORE5A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The exact amount of heat transfered to the water depends upon both the amount of heat produced by the circuit's heating of the coil and the amount of heat radiated into the coil from the work, so its hard to come up with exact figures. The radiation from the work is also dependent upon the amount of insulation between work and coil. Look at the graphs at the end of this video: kzread.info/dash/bejne/Z6iT3MSrhdrAeZc.html I measure both the temperature of the water at the heat exchanger and the air temperature exiting it. Since you can also see what power levels I am running at and the time of the run, this should give you a pretty good idea of heat transferred. Lastly, look at the "Probably the best spreadsheet for power and cooling info" link down toward the bottom of my main webpage on the subject: spaco.org/Blacksmithing/ZVSInductionHeater/1000WattZVSInductionHeaterNotes.htm I hope this helps.

Good day. What is the material you cover the cup with. I do not speak English. Thank you

@frenchcreekvalley

2 жыл бұрын

Here is the material that I use to cover the copper COILS with: Φ1~40mm White 600°C HIGH TEMP Fiberglass Sleeving Wire Cable Insulating Tube www.ebay.com/itm/153050276433 I usually order the 6mm sleeving. It is flexible enough to fit easily over the 1/4" O.D. copper tubing that I use for most of my coils. I did buy some 8mm sleeving at one time and it works okay, but is a little loose on that tubing. I don't use the silicone or anything else. Once I tried some varnish impregnated fiberglass sleeving that is used on electric motor windings, but the varnish caught on fire when I got some chunks of steel up to about 2000°F.

Depending on how much water is in your cooling circuit, it seems a fair amount of energy is being lost to I2R coil resistance if you are running 200khz. It's a bit of a balance act, small targets need higher freq but higher freq means I2R coil loss as heat from skin effect. If you want to know your efficiency of exactly how much energy is going into the crucible, you can do a heat capacity test on the target crucible by taking a known vol of water at a known temp ~ 80C . Drop the cold crucible ~ 20 C in the water, let it equilize and measure the water temp drop and crucible temp rise. Cp ( heat capacity of water) is 4.186 J/g/C. So the energy J to raise the temp of the crucible 1 degree can then be known. Knowing the Cp of the crucible you can do a 1 min heat, measure the change in crucible temp, calculate the energy actually absorbed in J per sec. Now simply divide the known crucible heating rate by input power EI to get energy transfer efficiency at Freq x. With that osc topology you can easily raise or lower the Freq to the most efficient for the coil-target by switching caps in or out. Nice setup !

@frenchcreekvalley

2 жыл бұрын

I don't think the amount of water in the cooling circuit will have much effect on I2R losses in the coil. but yes there are those losses. Just part of the "game". By the way, these heaters don't like frequencies any higher than about 130 kHz. The lower the frequency, the sharper the Mosfets turn on and off, leaving them in the linear range less often.

@sparkyy0007

2 жыл бұрын

@@frenchcreekvalley Sorry, I wasn't clear. The water has no effect on I2R loss of course, but how much a given amount of water heats per minute tells you how much energy you are losing from coil heating. For example, if your cooling circuit holds 2 liters, and it heats 4 deg C in 1 minute. QJ=(2000cc x 4.186 JgC x 4 del t) = 33488 J P = (33488 J / 60 sec) = 558 Watts I2R coil loss = 558 W If your input power was 100A @ 30V P in = 100A x 30V = 3000 Watts I2R Loss = (558/3000)) x 100 = 18.6%

@frenchcreekvalley

2 жыл бұрын

@@sparkyy0007 Energy transferred to the water won't tell you what you want to know since the coil is also being heated by radiation, etc. from the work itself. I almost always insulate my work coils, but that doesn't totally stop heat transfer. We also lose power in the chokes, Mosfets, etc., as I'm sure you know.

@sparkyy0007

2 жыл бұрын

@@frenchcreekvalley The work coil is always insulated from the work to minimize radiation and convection transfer. The only transfer mode left is a small amount of conduction through the insulation. You can quantify how much by measuring the water temp and flow rate entering and exiting the coil once the furnace is at temperature by turning off the generator. But there won't be much transfer with a good layer of insulation. If the chokes are getting hotter than about 80C they either need larger cores if they are saturating, or use litz wire to reduce I2R loss in the choke.

Awesome video do you have an idea of what frequency voltage etc I should shoot for to annealing brass rifle cartridges they only are to be heated to the neck from the top not the whole cartridge . thanks for the video

@frenchcreekvalley

5 жыл бұрын

Some people seem to have success in the 100 kHz frequency range. If you are asking about DC supply voltage to the 1000 watt induction heater, I suggest 48 volts. Since the rifle cartridges are not made of ferrous metal, they heat more slowly than a steel tube of the same size would, so you need all the power available that you can get.

@NZHardhouser

2 жыл бұрын

@@frenchcreekvalley Am also interested in this topic re non ferrous / brass. I made the error of purchasing the very unit you haven't yet used - and having issues with heating up brass in a timely manner. I also bought the 120W unit - so I removed the caps from that and added to the '1000W' unit, though only 2 caps a side - I'm hazarding a guess then that for brass, we need a lower resonant frequency? Which are provided by the addition of the caps in the tank circuit? Currently using 36 volts and a variety of hand wound copper coils, which dont seem to have much effect... Thoughts?

@frenchcreekvalley

2 жыл бұрын

@@NZHardhouser My first thought is to get put an ammeter in series with the power supply so you can see what is actually going on. As you said, I never powered up that small "1000 watt" unit, so I don't have any experience with it. Experts generally say that higher frequencies are better for non ferrous materials, but it really comes down to power delivery. Maybe its time for you to "bite the bullet" and get the 1000 watt unit that comes with 6 capacitors. Also, make sure that your power supply can maintain its output voltage while drawing 20 amps or so.

I keep blowing up MOSFETS too - Hate it! Often due to shorting out turns on the work coil, so that insulation on it is a good idea. I'm working on a protection circuit that will instantly shutdown the power if the current gets too high. (I have one of those modules, but it didn't come with an insulated coil) Also, I think having the thermocouple in the work coil is a bit sus. You will be heating the sensor directly, rather than just sensing the crucible temp.

@fc4633

2 жыл бұрын

How did you stop blowing mosfets ? I’m trying to aneal brass rifle shells and I made a smaller diameter coil to have better current transfer and it was working better last time and POP! The mosfet grenaded . A tip would be appreciated.

@bertoid

2 жыл бұрын

@@fc4633 If you mean me, I didn't stop blowing them up, just stopped using it! An ammeter in the power supply line is helpful, to let you know when things are getting overloaded. Maybe reduce your voltage as well. Basically, find what the limits are, and see if you can get the result you want without go too close to them.

@fc4633

2 жыл бұрын

@@bertoid yes, thanks for the reply.

This isn't an "American" trend. Over half of our views are from countries other than the USA. Many people enjoy developing new electronic technical skills and pushing the limits of existing equipment. Making production automobiles into "hot rods" would be a similar example in the mechanical field. If this sort of thing offends you, then by all means, don't watch it. By the way, please don't use coarse language in your comments to my videos. It serves no useful purpose.

@AllodialTitle

7 жыл бұрын

Frenchcreekvalley .frenchcreekvalley I'm in England. I'm looking into building something that can melt 300 kg of steel. Does anyone know if 230v 32 amp would be enough power. Great video btw.

@markbooth6577

6 жыл бұрын

Frenchcreekvalley .frenchcreekvalley …

@WarthogARJ

5 жыл бұрын

You wouldn’t be able to melt that much steel at once with that. You’d need a commercial sized system for such a large mass. You can make a rough calculation to confirm this, by calculating how much energy required to heat the steel to melting piint, then how much to melt it. And that’s optimistic because it doesn’t take into account any heat losses. Heat losses might be as much as 50% again on top of this. I will do that in a 2nd post. Then you can use the volts and amps of your proposed power source, and assuming 100% efficiency, you can see how long it would take to provide the energy you need from the first part of the calculation. And that is optimistic too, because you will not be 100% efficient. I dunno what it really will be, but at a wild guess maybe 20%?? Would need to think about that. One way to calculate an overall efficiency is how much heat the cooling water removes when you are heating something small. And compare that to total energy consumed by the system in terms of volts, amps and time. But even withut doing these calcs, it’s a very very long time....in fact i think forever because you will lose heat about as fast you heat with this small setup on such a huge mass. Anyways the other issue is the max size of coil in terms of what you can fit into it. This is for melting small things: like a few 100 grams, or heat treating bigger stuff

@johnconrad5487

5 жыл бұрын

@@AllodialTitle Must be trying to melt your neighbours car

Hi i have the same zvs but nothing will be hot. The coil has the diameter of a 18650 battery, 10 windings, and the coil is alminium. The voltage is 20v and the ampere is 4a Why it doesnt work? Thx?

@frenchcreekvalley

Жыл бұрын

What is the maximum current that your power supply can deliver to the load? The diameter of your work coil is too small and it may be causing your power supply to go into current limiting. What is the actual voltage at the ZVS board's input while it is drawing 4 amperes? If you bought one of these units, it should have arrived with a work coil of about 6 turns and between 1 1/2" and 2 inches in diameter. It would have been made of 6mm OD copper tubing. Try that coil. Tell me what you find.

As far as I know, none of these 1000 watt ZVS induction heater boards come with insulated work coils. I hope I made the point about adding heat sink compound to the Mosfets. Doing that will give you an additional margin of safety.

@sfp4197

5 жыл бұрын

I will buy and destroy more than 10 of this

I want this product but as per my requirements. I want zvs induction driver for 8kw induction heating which will be using in induction kadhai..... Pls provide your contact details and website so i can easily find out products

is there any way to make a water heting sistem with induction? heating the tubes with the water running inside?

@frenchcreekvalley

7 жыл бұрын

Yes, you can heat water with this kind of system, but It would be very inefficient. At least 20% to 30% of the electrical energy is used my the circuitry itself. You would be better off the use readily available resistance heating elements. That way, all of the electrical energy is used to heat the water. Google: "Immersion Heater" for some examples.

Hi! i did some tests with the seme 1000w chinese zvs and i could NOT melt metal. it gets red hot but never melts..

@frenchcreekvalley

6 жыл бұрын

I am not surprised that you could not "melt metal'. if you mean iron bearing metals, and copper, for instance. Others are successfully melting lower melting point metals, like soft solder and aluminum. However, you really need a graphite crucible and some good insulation to do it well. The crucible heats up well and then transfers it heat to the work by conduction and radiation. Many iron-bearing metals, (like common mild steel begin to melt at about 2600 degrees F. The hottest that I have ever gotten anything was about 2200° F. That temperature is pretty good for forging, but a long ways from melting. One of the problems with melting metals like copper is that it doesn't soak up much of the available energy. It melts at 1981° F. I think. I don't think I have ever gotten a crucible up to that temperature. To really push the system, one needs to carefully match the coil to the work, AND insulate well, too. See some of my later videos for more on this.

Can the induction heater work for many hours continuously? if you know that it’s great for me 😇.thank you.

@frenchcreekvalley

3 жыл бұрын

Yes it can work for hours at at time if it is powered and cooled properly.

Ok so if I understand right you want your machine to heat up those test rods to a higher temperature than you are getting and perhaps even much faster. A couple things come to mind. First and foremost I don't know if you made that coil or you are using one that came with the machine. If you are using one that came with the machine or if you copied the one that came with the machine it may work great. For some projects. For what you are testing with you need to build a new coil. The thing is...If you use a forge you can basically heat up anything that will fit inside or on top of it depending what kind of forge you have. If you use a torch you can head up anything you can hit with your flame. Induction heating isn't like that. You have to in a very large way match your induction coil with the type, shape, and physical dimensions of your work piece. If you don't you not only lose efficiency but you can also drastically reduce the maximum potential energy which can be transferred to the work piece. In other words. If your coil for example is much larger than your work piece its the same as trying to heat iron by placing it near your forge. Not in the fire but close by. Yes it will get hot. But it will take much longer and it will never reach the temperatures it would achieve if you put it in the fire. Or if you use a torch for heating metals normally. You would set the flame of your torch directly on the material. So imagine if you were forced to keep the flame just far enough away so it wasn't touching. This is what happens when your coil on your induction heater is to big for your work piece. I can't go into any specifics for dimensions because you are wanting to use this for blacksmithing and so you will likely want it to be somewhat flexible in being able to work for many different types of material. This is a huge problem if you only have one coil. You should make several different coil of various inside diameters for different projects. Then always use the smallest coil that your work piece will fit into. These coils should be stepped up or down in 1/4 in increments. So you might have one coil with a 1/4 in ID, another 1/2, 3/4, and so on. Ideally you would have a separation between the inner walls of your coil and your work piece of about 0.06 inches. However up to 0.25 inches will still work. Keep in mind though that the greater this separation the less efficient the energy transfer rate and therefore the slower the heat buildup and lower maximum temperature can be reached. This is why I recommend 1/4 in intervals in your coil ID's as you step up. Because the flux is most concentrated close to the coil turns themselves and decreases farther from them, the geometric center of the coil is a weak flux path. Thus, if a part were to be placed off center in a coil, the area closer to the coil turns would intersect a greater number of flux lines and would therefore be heated at a higher rate, whereas the area of the part with less coupling would be heated at a lower rate. So in your experiment you have a relatively large coil and you put a very small iron or steel rod presumably directly in the middle. This is wrong for several reasons. First the coil being so large means a large separation between the metal rod and the coils. Magnetism obey an inverse cube law in relation to its power drop off over distance. Similar to light and sound with their inverse square law where two times the distance means 1/4 the amplitude. Only for magnetism instead of a squared loss its cubed. In other words its even more important to be close to the source of the magnetic field which is the coils. There is significantly less magnetic field energy near the center of the coil compared to the outside edge of the inside diameter of the coil. Basically you put your metal rod in the worst place you could inside of the coil. You would have probably been much better off holding your metal rod much closer to one side of the coil though at best this still wouldn't have transferred even 1/2 as much energy as you could have had you used a much smaller coil with an inside diameter only slightly larger than the metal rod. Now all that said there are things I don't understand about induction heating. For example the number of turns in your coil are meant to be matched to your power supply in some way to increase efficiency as well. I would "assume" that if your coil came with your machine they probably looked up or calculated how many turns it needed. Also changing the number of turns int he coil can affect how well it works for different metals. There are probably charts for this but I don't know it off the top of my head. Another thing to be away or is that the energy transfer rate is directly proportional to the conductivity of the material. Your graphite crucible heats up because graphite is a conductor. But because graphite is a very good conductor is wouldn't head up very fast and therefore the maximum temperature it could reach with you machine would be limited by that. Aluminum is another good example. Being an excellent conductor the magnetism is able to pass almost freely through it without the resistance you would have in iron. Therefore less resistance means less energy transfer and longer times required to heat. Finally Iron being a very poor conductor would head the fastest. It is conductive but also highly resistant which means you would get your most rapid energy transfer while heating iron. It would heat faster and likely reach much higher maximum temperatures. I know that last paragraph was a bit of random information. I really hope this helps you reach your goals with this machine. I think you are almost there once you tweak your coil perimeters. I find it inspiring to see someone your age still active and interested in learning, experimenting, and working. I hope to still be as vigorous when I get there :).

@frenchcreekvalley

6 жыл бұрын

Thanks for your input. If you look ahead at some of my more recent videos, you will see that I delve into this topic in much more detail. I don't know if you work in this field or not, but this particular inexpensive circuit does not have automatic frequency and load sensing capabilities. It simply draws all the current it can get and operates at whatever frequency that the tank wants to run at. And, of course, we can't let the current get much beyond 20 or 25 amps (at about 48 volts), so the ultimate power IS limited to about 1000 watts max. And thanks for you comment about doing this stuff at my age. But, guess what----- I was building stuff with vacuum tubes when I was 9 and I just never quit. They hadn't coined the word "geek" yet. You were called a "brain" which was also a derogatory term.

@K162KingPin

6 жыл бұрын

I've never seen an induction heater in person. Never built one. I stumbled across your video in a vine and you got me interested :). I do have a background in electronics, robotics, and metal fabrication. So it got me interested. After which I did HOURS of reading up the subject and besides the fact that I haven't found a formula yet that describes the relationship between amps and heat transfer rate (which would be nice) I did find that other info which I just thought you might find useful :). So did you ever get it to work the way you wanted? Or is 1000watts just not enough for forging work? That is compared to other traditional forms of heating. The reason I was interested in the first place besides just learning something new is I have a crafting project I want to do that requires heating and bending a few thousand horseshoe nails. So I figured I would use a torch but by the time I'm done I'll be out about $100 worth of gas. For the same price I could buy the parts for one of these small induction heaters. But to be worth while it would need to heat the nails red hot in about 2-3 seconds. I'm just not sure 1000W induction heater will do it nearly that fast.

@johnconrad5487

5 жыл бұрын

@@K162KingPin Your comment is from a year ago, so what is the approach you used to bent the nails? Have u tried to pursue Induction Heating any further?

I'm just beginning to look into this method of melting metal, there is so many videos on this but little bits of important info here and there. I am doing an experiment. It involves disks of metal.... I need to be able to make the disks any thickness and diameter that I feel that I need. Also I need to try many different types of metal. Definitely Copper and 316 L stainless steel. What is the best method for me. I seen a mini ark furnace design, would this way be better then that? I'm ok with pouring molten metal but if I could avoid the pouring process that would be awesome. With this I could do the coil design to where it's shaped like a "U" shape and having it span around half the disk (the mold) to where I could put it around my casting with with the scraps to be melted. (one coil on each half of the disk I'll be making) On that note , isn't it only conducive things that will heat up? Like what about wood or green sand, also what about glass and water? I just need a cheap way to do this with no points of potential failure because of design or method of usage! Please help?

@frenchcreekvalley

6 жыл бұрын

This 1000 watt device won't melt copper unless the copper is put into a small graphite crucible and then it might melt one cubic inch of material. It might melt a small amount of 316. You don't say what size your "disks" would be so it's hard to address coil design, power requirements, etc... Yes, it is only electrically conductive things that will heat up. None of the 4 items you mention would be heated by this induction heater. Regarding "cheap way" and "no --- failure": That's what everybody wants. In the lab, we used to say: "Cost, Quality and Speed, pick any two". If your experiment is based on using the disks, consider having them lathe turned from solid bar stock. If the experiment is in the making of the disks, you will have to specify the disk sizes and the use to which they will be put, in much more detail.

@davidprock904

6 жыл бұрын

Frenchcreekvalley .frenchcreekvalley ; I'm going to be the next person the Government wants to kill. I'm going to remake the Faraday Disk (1831), with improvements. Used as a generator.... And this generator design negates Lenz's Law! We all know what that leaves room for! (Henceforth my ((unwanted)) Death Wish by the hand of the Government.) I will be spinning the disks. I'm imagining I won't have to go past three feet in diameter, and the thickness probably starting at an inch. But if I discover that I have to make the disks seven feet in diameter I'll go for it. I don't fully know the size quite yet. I will be make smaller ones to run the math on to see what the largest size I want/need to make is. So what about these numbers (one foot diameter @ an inch thick) (three foot diameter @ an inch thick) (One foot diameter @ one foot thick) Yes I said one foot by one foot cylinder Any advice on a lathe, I don't have access to one?

@frenchcreekvalley

6 жыл бұрын

These disk sizes are 'way out of range for this device. You would need dozens of KW to melt enough metal to produce them by casting, IMNSHO. I suggest that you design up a couple of prototype disks (smaller is better, for now). Then look up "machine shop" in your local telephone directory. Make a call, tell them what you need and ask for a cost. Hopefully, they will ask you to send them a print. Of course, you can do this with a personal appearance at the place (MY preferred approach). Note: I don't know why you'd want the thickness. Doesn't add much the overall surface area.

@davidprock904

6 жыл бұрын

Frenchcreekvalley .frenchcreekvalley IMNSHO?

@davidprock904

6 жыл бұрын

Frenchcreekvalley .frenchcreekvalley the diameter gives you voltage, the thickness gives you amperage. But they also go hand-in-hand with the potential of output. But the exponential gain is mostly in the voltage/diameter

What do you think can this thing be used for aluminium brazing instead of propane torch and I dont mean to use it for pipes but let say some two solid aluminium plates T which doesnt fit inside coil, but its needed some small flat inductor. Place of brazing should be heated to 400-450*C and then brazing rods are applied. Biggest problem with propane is slow heating and when you have 2 brazing places close to each other first one falls apart while you brazing second one becouse of fast heat transfer through aluminium, bigger pieces you cant braze at all becouse they are always cool. I thought this might help but I have no experience with this stuff.

@frenchcreekvalley

4 жыл бұрын

I think you would see the same problems with this 1000 watt induction heater that you would see with the propane torch. Much larger induction heating machines ARE used for the purposes that you suggest every day. In industry, they would probably use a 10,000 watt or larger induction heater to braze the aluminum joint that you describe.

@eugenega7494

4 жыл бұрын

I see some steel start to glow with this device. I dont think I could do that with the propane torch, to me this looks much more powerfull. Aluminium melts around 650*C and these brazing rods works at 400*C. It doesnt need to melt aluminium just heat it up to working temperature. You can check here: kzread.info/dash/bejne/g3afqMFshd3Poso.html

@frenchcreekvalley

4 жыл бұрын

@@eugenega7494 Good point. ---However--- A lot of the propane torches heat gets away if you don't do anything to contain it. when I do need to heat something that is pretty large, I put a few a few firebricks together like a hollow box so the heat can't get away. Makes a huge difference. But there's a bigger problem with aluminum: It doesn't have the electrical "friction" that iron-bearing metals have. So, for a given size of induction heater, MUCH LESS energy will be ablsorbed by the workpiece.. If you look a some of my copper and cartridge brass videos, you will see what I mean.

@eugenega7494

4 жыл бұрын

You need some holder, you need firebricks to make a tunnel, you need to wait to heat it up.. Its too complicated if you need to braze something bigger from more angles. I thought some small induction coil can be made to use with 1000w or 2500w device and slowly pull it over the place of brazing and pulling a brazing rod behind it, fast heating fast cooling. Something like this. kzread.info/dash/bejne/qYWBusOnf8Kqqbg.html If thats not possible. What do you thing about making some powerfull "soldering iron" from it and do the same thing? Like soldering a wire.

@frenchcreekvalley

4 жыл бұрын

@@eugenega7494 Well the main thing is that, in the link you sent they only demonstrate heating items made of steel. It takes a lot more raw power to get enough energy transfer into non ferrous materials like copper an aluminum. That unit, you probably noticed is a 3700 watt machine an it costs about USD$3200.00! I suggest that you watch this video: kzread.info/dash/bejne/mWp7qK-pirjAZ84.html to decide if you want to invest on one of the units that I have been experimenting with. Note that the cartridge casings are pretty thin. I'd be very interested to see what results you get.

Hello, do you know the maximum operating hours of this product? does it work around 2-4hrs use? and where can i find a datasheet for this. i just need it for my school project.

@frenchcreekvalley

4 жыл бұрын

I have never run the system for more than about 20 minutes at a time, but I think the unit can run 2 to 4 hours at a time if you have proper water cooling, proper fan cooling, at least a 36 volt power supply capable of supplying 25 amps, and without overloading it. If you go to amazon, ebay, aliexpress or bagggood and search for "1000 watt ZVS induction heater", you will find many offers to sell. They all have some sort of desciption, but I have never seen a real "datasheet" for one. Go to this webpage. spaco.org/Blacksmithing/ZVSInductionHeater/1000WattZVSInductionHeaterNotes.htm I think it has all the information you will need.

@frenchcreekvalley

4 жыл бұрын

I have never run the system for more than about 25 minutes at a time, but I think it can run for 2 to 4 hours if you set it up and use it correctly. There are many sellers of these boards. Go to ebay, amazon, aliexpress or banggood and search for "1000 watt ZVS induction heater". Most of those sellers have product descriptions, but I have never seen a real datasheet. Go to this webpage and I think you will find all the information you need there: spaco.org/Blacksmithing/ZVSInductionHeater/1000WattZVSInductionHeaterNotes.htm

@ej3129

3 жыл бұрын

Frenchcreekvalley .frenchcreekvalley thank you so much sir for the info. I will use a 1000w switching power supply with 48V- 20A. Can I also use a copper tube for the cooling system or I should stick to silicon rubber hose? Also, instead of water can I used also a car coolant fluid so it can used for a long time? God bless you

@frenchcreekvalley

3 жыл бұрын

@@ej3129 Thank you for your kind words. I suggest that you use flexible tubing to connect to the work coil. I use vinyl tubing and it has worked quite well for me. If you need to use copper tubing for the coolant piping, I suggest that you electrically isolate that tubing from the work coil with several inches of non-conductive tubing, just to make sure no inadvertent short circuits can occur. Car coolant is not quite as effective as clean water, but I think it will work well. I see many people who simply pump (cycle) their coolant through a container that holds a gallon or two. In that case, your maximum time will be limited because the coolant can get so hot it will boil. That is very bad because once you get steam bubbles in the work coil, the coolant becomes ineffective. That's why I use radiators with fans.

Do they break a lot after short time use?

@frenchcreekvalley

5 жыл бұрын

No, they do not break as long as you follow my instructions for using them. Ever since I realized that you have to have an ammeter, water cooling for the coil and air cooling for the board I have not had even one failure. You should watch my other videos to see for yourself.

Does anyone know if this type of heater would be applicable (efficient, effective, and economic) for the task of providing a boiling water faucet for domestic use in the kitchen, for example, to fill a single drinking cup ( ~250ml ) or, coffee or tea pot - up to enough hot water to fill a saucepan for cooking food ( ~1 - 2 litres)? Thanks in advance for any commentary.

@frenchcreekvalley

6 жыл бұрын

No, it would not be any of the above. First, you waste some energy in the power supply and in the ZVS driver circuitry itself. Then you have to transfer the energy from the work coil to some metallic structure. Then that structure has to transfer the energy to the water. You would be much better off (assuming you intend to use electricity to provide the energy) to use a simple mains-powered immersion heater like this one: www.ebay.com/itm/10-Water-Heater-Portable-Electric-110V-1000W-Immersion-Element-Boiler-Travel/401255181469?hash=item5d6cac2c9d:g:OHIAAOSw6DtYVNYl

@johnd.ingleson799

6 жыл бұрын

Frenchcreekvalley .frenchcreekvalley - Thank you for your comment.

17:17 It took a long time to reach 654 o C, about a little below aluminium's melting point, what makes me wonder if you could melt aluminium with those small 120W/12V heaters that you have shown at the begining..

@frenchcreekvalley

6 жыл бұрын

I very much doubt that one could melt more than a few grams of aluminum with the little 5V to 12V model. You would need to have a tiny, tiny graphite crucible to concentrate the energy. I think you'd also need to insulate the whole thing. I am afraid that it would take so long to get up to heat that the coil itself would get hot enough to melt the solder which holds it to the circuit board. I'd like to hear about it if someone can prove me wrong!

@cabeloDoPardal2

6 жыл бұрын

Good to know your advice. Thank you. I am researching about it before buying some of those. I want to make some small pieces of aluminum by styrofoam buried in sand and I still do not know what induction solution would fit. Maybe I should need a reasonable power supply, above 300W just for start.

@frenchcreekvalley

6 жыл бұрын

You will need more than a 300 watt power supply. The unit you see in this and most of my other videos needs to be able to supply at least 25 amperes without a drop in output voltage. Here are some examples of the maximum current that you could draw from a 300 watt power supply at various voltages within the working range of these 1000 watt induction heaters: watts 300 300 300 volts 24 36 48 amps 12.5 8.33 6.25 The big problem is that this circuit "wants" to draw all the current it can get. In this video, I am using a small crucible that I made myself, because, if I had used the larger crucible (that can be seen on the left), It would drawn 25 amps of more.

@cabeloDoPardal2

6 жыл бұрын

Then for 25A and 24V a 600W would barely fit. There are some models on aliexpress which run on 12V and 20A. Maybe they could reach the point with some more time and some kind of good refrigeration.

@frenchcreekvalley

6 жыл бұрын

12 volts at 20 amps is only 240 watts. I suggest that you watch my later videos and also take some time to read my webpage on this subject. It's at: spaco.org/Blacksmithing/ZVSInductionHeater/1000WattZVSInductionHeaterNotes.htm Particularly, you to understand that the lower the voltage, the worse the heating of the Mosfets.

nice bro,mine not working anymore i dont know the problem of my induction i boougt in aliexpress,still on but cannot heating anymore

@frenchcreekvalley

2 жыл бұрын

Here is my troubleshooting guide: spaco.org/Blacksmithing/ZVSInductionHeater/1000Watt12to48VoltZVSInductionHeaterTroubleshootingGuide.htm

@mrcesporinas1041

2 жыл бұрын

@@frenchcreekvalley thanks bro ,it is big help for me ,I will try this info

Can melt 1900 C degrees the metal chrome?

@frenchcreekvalley

6 жыл бұрын

I have never tried to melt chromium with this device, but I don't think it would work. The highest temperature I have ever reached is about 1200 C and that was with ferrous material. I don't say that it can't be done at all, but I doubt that you can do it with this device.

These ZVS circuits incorporate 2 Mosfets in a Royer oscillator configuration and the maximum safe operating voltage is 50VDC. But to melt metal you need to bang theatoms with high voltage electromagnetic waves. So these ZVS circuits are only suitable for medium temperature demos and experiments.

@frenchcreekvalley

5 жыл бұрын

Why is it important for you to tell us that? If you check out my playlist, you will see that others of these circuits use 4 and 6 Mosfets. Watts are watts at the work coil. If you need more watts, then you need larger (more expensive) devices.

Could you use these heaters to heat air inside a home ??? Thanks

@frenchcreekvalley

3 жыл бұрын

Technically, yes. But from a practical standpoint, it would be a waste of money and time. Cheap electric heaters would much cheaper and easier to operate. 1000 watts produces about 3400 Btu's of heat no matter how you produce it.

@victoryfirst2878

3 жыл бұрын

@@frenchcreekvalley How would you make it happen if you would have too??? Thanks

@frenchcreekvalley

3 жыл бұрын

@@victoryfirst2878 Not sure that I understand your question. 1. Are you asking how you would heat a house electrically? Or: Are you asking 2. "How would you heat a house with an induction heater if you had to?" For question 1, I'd need to know the size of the house, how well it is insulated, what climate you are in, etc.. Here in central Wisconsin, we need an 85,000 btu furnace to heat a 2000 sq. ft home. That would take 25 kilowatts. or about USD$2.50 per hour. Assuming a cold day with the furnace on 50% of the time, that would cost about USD$30 per day.

@victoryfirst2878

3 жыл бұрын

@@frenchcreekvalley I am asking how to make a home induction heater that you mentioned above ??? I look forward to hear from you Sir with an answer. Have a Happy New Year too. V

@frenchcreekvalley

3 жыл бұрын

@@victoryfirst2878 You need to buy the basic induction heater with work coil, a 48 volt DC power supply that can deliver at least 25 amps (for the 1000 watt unit), a cooling fan and power supply. an appropriate circuit breaker to use as a DC power switch, a small water pump with power supply, tubing to connect the pump to the work coil and to a cool water reservoir. You will also need wire to connect the system parts together. These parts are all available from Ebay, Amazon, Aliexpress and Banggood. For this 1000 watt induction heater, you will have to buy all these parts separately and then assemble the system. But for the larger 1800 watt and 2500 watt units, there are many sellers who offer complete "kits" or "combination packages" that include everything that I have mentioned. Here is one example of such a "kit": Go to Banggood.com and enter this search criteria: Geekcreit® 2500W 48V 50A ZVS Induction Heating Module High Frequency Heating Machine Melted Metal Coil With Power Supply Full Kit If you go to my induction heating playlist, kzread.info/head/PLVxWen9M87dBhvInCQ-3pELWdxCM3XH4I and watch the videos there, you can get many details of how I build and control them.

36v and only 10 amps. Its advertised at 1000w. Your running it its suggested voltage. I wonder why you power is so low?? I bought one, im hoping to get a temp above 900C...

@frenchcreekvalley

7 жыл бұрын

I have been working my way up from 12 volts toward 48 volts as I learned more about the device. As of today, April 2, 2017 I have 11 videos and the latest ones all show the device running at 48 volts. See my Playlist: ZVS 1000 Watt Induction Heater" and go to the webpage: spaco.org/Blacksmithing/ZVSInductionHeater/1000WattZVSInductionHeaterNotes.htm

@WarthogARJ

5 жыл бұрын

I have bought one and am about to start running it. But i think you need to run it at a certain miniimum voltage for it to work properly. I think that by running it at less volts you in fact damged the induction system, it’s not a tually safer to run at too low a voltge. But very nice videos, thanks for your efforts.

Sir, I want to melt 50 grams of pure gold, since I am not having any skill in the field of electronics, I need your help to find out what kind of induction heater would be use full for me? Hope will find some solution. Thanx.

@frenchcreekvalley

6 жыл бұрын

Hello Saleem. I think this induction heater will melt 50 grams of gold in a graphite crucible. But you need to also buy a power supply, a water pump, an amp meter and all of the associated hardware needed to make it all work.

@Salim4607

6 жыл бұрын

Frenchcreekvalley .frenchcreekvalley Thank you sir, Iam so great full, after watching your this video I hope avery thing would be fine in setting up,thank you once again.

@rajeshkumar-iu7oi

5 жыл бұрын

Sir, I want to make 15 or 20 kw induction heater for forging. Please give me a circuit and idia to make. Thanks

I assume you know about these circuits requirement for a fast rise voltage? They blow up when you turn them on if your supply is slow in coming up to voltage, which most are. You need a switch between supply and circuit, turn on supply, wait a bit and then turn on the switch between ZVS and supply.

@frenchcreekvalley

4 жыл бұрын

I wouldn't say that I know ALL about these circuits, but I DO have a switch in line with the power supply for that very reason in the systems that I build that do use a switched mode power supply instead of the car batteries that you see in this video. The title screen of this video suggests that you go to my web pages on this subject where I cover all that stuff in great detail. One last comment: These days (after about 2018) most of the sellers of these units make it pretty clear that you need to wait for the power supply to get going. Unfortunately, many buyers don't pay close attention. I also have seen several videos where the guy only has a 5 or 10 amp bench supply which is a no-no, too, as far as I am concerned. Last point: These days, many sellers of these ZVS induction heaters offer "hot swapping" server power supplies along with the induction heaters itself. As far as I know, they don't come "on line" until they are ready to produce full power. Even then, I use a separate power switch anyway.

You need the right size crucible the ceramic cup 1 KG graphite a 5 gallon bucket of water for proper cooling

@frenchcreekvalley

Жыл бұрын

You need to take the link in the description to see some of my later videos. A 5 gallon bucket is only good for short runs. The fan cooled radiator that you see in this video allows for continuous operation. spaco.org/Blacksmithing/ZVSInductionHeater/1000WattZVSInductionHeaterNotes.htm

Your thermocouple in the induction field may be disturbed electrically. You can get remote measuring infrared digital thermometers that can set outside the field and read surface temperatures. $19 at harbor freight.

@frenchcreekvalley

7 жыл бұрын

I don't think these particular thermocouples are affected by the induction heater's field because the read out temperature doesn't change when I turn the power off. Yes, the temperature does start to decline slowly, but I have NEVER seen any indication that the field current effects it.

Good evening I want to by induction heating kit. Please send price list thanks

@frenchcreekvalley

4 жыл бұрын

I do not have any induction heating kits to sell. If you want to buy an induction heater kit similar to the ones I use, google: "ZVS Induction heater kit" you will find many variations of size and price. Here is a link to one such kit: www.banggood.com/1800W-48V-50A-ZVS-Induction-Heating-Module-High-Frequency-Heating-Machine-Melted-Metal-Coil-With-Power-Supply-p-1418435.html?rmmds=buy&cur_warehouse=CN

@farooqazam4648

3 жыл бұрын

20000-25000 Watts induction heater price

i didnt want the thing to get burned up so i waited for the power supply and now my inline mini water pump came in so i think im o ready t0 go and melt some gold.

Why do the mosfets in the zvs blow up?

@frenchcreekvalley

Жыл бұрын

Go to this webpage: spaco.org/Blacksmithing/ZVSInductionHeater/1000WattZVSInductionHeaterNotes.htm Scroll down to item 5.1, which is titled "Why it breaks and how to fix it". For people who are trying one of these heaters out for the first time, I think the MAIN cause is an inadequate power supply or a power supply that has its current limit set to less than about 25 amps for the 1000 watt unit and about 50 amps for the 2500 watt unit.

@TheRealObamagaming

Жыл бұрын

@@frenchcreekvalley thanks

My dear friend you need to build a forge oven with at least four of thse modules stack side by side horizontally with bricks around it tight and sealed. You can then put a large pice of metal you want to forge. You will not get good results with one induction coil of 1000 watts. Inorder for you to run this type operation you need four coils and at least 2000 watts each for larger area to cover. I don't know what your objective is for forging just about two inches of a metal bar. If you are planning to make knives, or daggers, you need larger area and you know it better. All the gadgets you hooked up together are not necessary unless you want to make things fully automated and want to run the show using a micro controller like ardinio or so. Good luck you are keeping yourself well busy.

@frenchcreekvalley

3 жыл бұрын

I do understand the limitations of this device. But many people do not and that is why I made this video and many others that follow. I have been blacksmithing with coal and propane forges for the last 35 years, by the way.

I always wanted to ask...what can one use it for.

@frenchcreekvalley

5 жыл бұрын

Some Possible Uses for the 1000 Watt ZVS Induction Heater Use it for blacksmithing of things from about 3/8" round and down. Use it for small things like the little salt spoons that guys make from horseshoe nails. Use it for anything that is made from horseshoe nails. Use it for heat treating chisels and any tools where just the metal contacting end needs to be hardened or hardened and tempered Use it for annealing work that will fit into it. And, by indirectly heating non ferrous metals, they could be annealed, too. One could even add a programmable temperature device so to anneal hard-to-anneal alloys like S-7. With some thought to coil design, one could Harden and temper knive blades with it. One guy made an indirectly heated solder pot with a temperature controller. And it certainly would be a good school demonstration tool.

@gajananphadte3440

5 жыл бұрын

@@frenchcreekvalley Thanks

@frenchcreekvalley

5 жыл бұрын

It just occurred to me that this Induction heater will be very good for brazing/silver soldering iron, steel and most stainless steel (ferrous) parts together. If faster process speed is needed, use the lowest melting point brazing/silver soldering material that will produce the needed joint strength. I say this because the closer the braze material's melting point is to the curie point, the faster the completion of the joint will be.

If you don't fry something, you're not trying! LOL

What is the maximum temperature ?

@frenchcreekvalley

Жыл бұрын

The maximum temperature depends upon many factors. In a small graphite crucible, I have melted a few hundred grams of cast iron which melts at about 2200°F. On the other hand, I can't get a 1" diameter round bar much above about 1800°F if it is the only item in the work coil. See these two playlists for more: kzread.info/head/PLVxWen9M87dBhvInCQ-3pELWdxCM3XH4I kzread.info/head/PLVxWen9M87dCeUnIhxueR0sJ9bvI2rbRJ

What is crucible material. graphite, ceramic, ? ?

@frenchcreekvalley

7 жыл бұрын

Here's a video that describes one mixture of crucible material: kzread.info/dash/bejne/eqmBltqMfruWntI.html The "formula" is on screen at about 2:52. I made my small crucible by boring a 5/8" hole in a 1 1/4" diameter rod that someone gave me a long time ago, so I have no idea what that one is made of. It certainly had a high carbon content. Sorry that I can't be of more help.

There is different heat transfer past. Silver and some others, make shortcut fun... Most of the past don't shortcut. Silver is someway over do.... For that kind projects...

This project is limited to 24v at 2amps, However Batt charger extreame

Can i use mosfet 540 instead of using 260 N ?

@frenchcreekvalley

5 жыл бұрын

I would say: NO. Many hobbyists have tried the IRF540 and most have upgraded to the IRFP260N. The experts say that you need a Vdss 3 times as high as the input voltage so the 540's 100 volts certainly won't work with a 36 to 48 volt input. Also note that the 540 can only handle 22 amps. I often run my system at 25 amps or more. And the 260N has a slightly better Rdss(on), too, which means a little less heat. See the difference in specs: Irf540 vdss =100 Rdss(on) .055 ohms 22 amps IRFP260N vdss =200 Rdss (on).04 ohms 50 amps ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

@throughcity

5 жыл бұрын

Tks !

thanks for sharing Frenchcreekvalley .frenchcreekvalley

P.S.I have so many questions so I can get my unit up and running

Isent the thirmo meter probe heating up first as its metal which might give faulse heat reading

@frenchcreekvalley

6 жыл бұрын

The temperature sensor probe is usually a lot smaller than the workpiece and so it is not likely to heat up as fast as the workpiece does. I have turned off the power many times at the end of a run and the sensor temperature does not drop rapidly. I can also tell you that, in several cases, some of which you can see on my videos. I have inadvertently allowed the probe to move away from the workpiece. When this happens, the temperature goes down until I put in back in actual contact with the work. I hope this answers your question.

@jdshenanigans9265

6 жыл бұрын

Frenchcreekvalley .frenchcreekvalley thats good to know .its a great setup you have .its great so many people are uploading there own work it helps out so many others thanks

My second ZVS driver came from china and it had heatsink compound on it

@frenchcreekvalley

4 жыл бұрын

That's good to hear!

I thought you were willing to show every device and not your personal & clever setup

@frenchcreekvalley

6 жыл бұрын

Sorry, but I got into this whole thing like a lot of other people did. Just to try out the little 5 volt to 12 volts model.. Then I upgraded to the 1000 watt model when I saw how little the first on could do. I could not afford to buy one or two of every other induction heater on the market.

@cabeloDoPardal2

6 жыл бұрын

Your video has many tips and true indications.I was almost buying a cheap 12V/~100W model, and waiting more than a month for it to arrive , but your video has brought some reality to my thoughts. Thank you.

I do believe that , ur amperage is to low to maintain a constant. That 1000w unit would require a 20 amp non fluctuating constant supply . So i would go , 24v dc 24 amp power feed. You should be able to reduce heating time and run ur I C s and coils much cooler .

@frenchcreekvalley

3 жыл бұрын

I worked my way up to 48 volts with a power supply capable of about 25 amps for this unit. If you take the link in the opening screen, you will see that.

@pinnacleengineeringanautom7411

3 жыл бұрын

What was the outcome ? I am currently working on one , which i need to do what i require at a really fast pace .

@frenchcreekvalley

3 жыл бұрын

@@pinnacleengineeringanautom7411 I use 48 volts all the time. I have a 25 amp power supply for the 1000 watt unit and a 60 amp power supply for the 2500 watt unit.

I am sorry too low power you need more Perfomance.

you have not been able to reach 1KW. max that I saw was about 500 watts. while ure doing these experiments you can also have your battery charger charging the batteries. that ure getting this much power induced in the fat iron rod is already great!

What was the purpose of this video? I did not get it at all. Thank you.

@frenchcreekvalley

3 жыл бұрын

Well, it was made for people who are interested in getting one of these induction heaters and for folks who already have one and are having trouble with it. Please re-read the description and, if you still have questions, be more specific and I will try to answer them.

Induktor, Kapazitätwellen Indikator Transistor n t+nt-

@wolfgangboettcher3126

2 жыл бұрын

Ich kenne c*t1

@wolfgangboettcher3126

2 жыл бұрын

Mehr als alle

Sir i am following your vdos for zvs inductions heaters, i have a problem which i cant able to solve, i use the circuit given in ...spaco.org/Blacksmithing/ZVSInductionHeater/1000WattZVSInductionHeaterNotes.htm this one (above) i use a high curent mosfet (100A ) it can handle at 100V,i use a 20V 30A transformer +rectifier unit with 21000mfd rectifier dc capacitor for smothering the dc i have a 4 mfd capacitor (1x4nos) for tank circuit i i made a copper tube working coil (3mm copper tube with 5 turns 1.5 inch coil dia .) my problem is when i switch ON DC the inrush current is very high --trasformer sec 60A) without any load inside the working coil. and no resonance in tank the mosfets heat up like hell ( but dont fail since 100a rated). so i switched of to avoid rectifier failure. by experimenting i inserted a thick (2 cm x 2cm ) mn-zn ferrite rod into the working coil to my surprise the tank resonates and the current taken also is less just 3.5A (input ac current to rectifier) when i insert a small iron wire inside working coil it heats up slowly but never to red hot condition, (input current increases from 3.5A ac to 7-9A) but when i remove the ferrite rod from inside the workingcoil the resonance stops and the mosfets becomes very hot input AC current increases to 60A etc., i tried to make the working coil tighter and closer .....made diameter 2 inch with 5 turns no change. Please explain and help me how to solve this...... the circuit is perfect all parts ok since i used large size components (100+ A mosfet) 8A diodes, 5W zeners ,5w resistors, i use 470 ohms and 10 k resistors. plese ....please help.... where is the mistake ???? do i need tgo change coil size ???

Preciso de 5kva

:30 pun

These zvs induction circuits are inefficient and lossy because they operate on lo voltage but high currents. Induction circuits operating on high voltage are much more efficient

@frenchcreekvalley

5 жыл бұрын

And., of course, more expensive.

Do not purchase anything from Bangood they cheat you out of your money and time. The induction heater I bought for comparison will not work and when it did arrive one of the capacitors was loose in package, it didn't even look like what I bought. After further testing found out one of the mosfets was already burned out and it was a surface mount not through hole like I ordered. I also purchased 8mm linear screw with nema 17 stepper motor kit, screws arrived but no motors sent in request for replacement, denied because I did not send in photo or video of missing parts (????). THEY WILL CHEAT YOU! BAN BANGOOD

Du kennst nttppptn

Is this new trend in America? Melting? How come everybody needs this shit?

I thaught thermal paste isn’t conductive?

@frenchcreekvalley

Жыл бұрын

As far as I know, some is Electrically conductive (if that's what you mean) and some is not. Just google "is thermal paste electrically conductive" and see for yourself. Here's a quote from one website (Arrow Electronics, I think): "These consist of micronized silver particles suspended in a silicone medium. However, metal-based thermal paste can be electrically conductive and capacitive and can cause malfunctions or damage if it flows onto electrical circuitry.Dec 13, 2019"