Correction regarding the PETG segment: I wanted to note that I didn’t mean these machines can print PETG or other slow filaments with good quality, it is definitely possible and it came off a bit wrong in my video. This was simply the experience that I had with the standard profiles.

@simontratter2434

Ай бұрын

Same for me unfortunately with PETG. lots of VFA when printing slow. The standard PETG profiles are too fast for Prusament, because then the layers do not stick together :/

@cutty02

27 күн бұрын

@@simontratter2434 elegoo rapid petg

Great video. Agreed, the AMS is not as reliable as the printers are... 95% of my Bambu Lab frustrations are with the AMS.

@roughiness

Ай бұрын

Definitely agree, and thank you so much for the nice comment, your content is really great and has helped me out in the past :)

@Founders4

Ай бұрын

@@roughiness I have a P1s and never bothered with the AMS as it's been a bit of a weak point for the P and X series, rather Ironic since it's also a huge selling point. I'll be curious to see if Bambu's next iteration of the AMS will be backwards compatible with first generation printers. From what I hear the AMS lite is quite a bit more reliable/repeatable so I assume they'll carry over what they've learned.

@bertiboygaming

15 күн бұрын

I just watched a vid of you 😂

@dan-nutu

14 күн бұрын

​@@Founders4ha, thanks, this just helps me get over the remorse that I didn't get one! :)

Thanks for the long term review! Honest and no sugarcoating. Much appreciated. I've been amazed by my bambu printers; I have an A1, and A1 mini and another A1 and mini on the way. AFAIK, bambu started shipping the gold textured PEI plates with all their printers, and I agree, they're amazing.

It’s wild how underrated you are. I was genuinely shocked when I saw that you had less than 1,000 subscribers. Glad to catch you channel while it’s still new! If it’s already this engaging at only its 3rd video, I can’t wait to see what you do next 😁

Come on, man.... How am I supposed to binge videos of a creator I just discovered and very much enjoy if there are no videos to binge? Jokes aside, keep up the great work! Your videos definitely have a charm about them with clean edits and enjoyable transitions. They don't come off as low effort or tacky, but more so semi-serious with some comedic elements using the basic typefaces and lowercase letters. I really enjoy them! And thanks for the insight on the P1S. I have on on the way from Bambu Lab and ill have to keep these in mind when I use it.

a lot of these things are stuff that people havent talked about so i really appreciate you telling us everything about your experience. Great job dude :)

*sigh* so I keep seeing people say that their sparsely filled rolls have issues (usually cardboard ones that are smaller) but there are 3d printable adapter rings that solve this. To say nothing about respooling or what I do: respool onto 1/2 and 1/3 bisected reels that fit onto the bbl reusable spools so you can pull them off and on as you like so you can even get sample coils to work in the AMS.

Thank you for the post. You've collected some extremely useful long-term information, tips and tricks. Very helpful!

My biggest frustration with the AMS is how many steps are required to clear the most common jam. Any time I have filament break off in the AMS (mostly due to bad filament), you need to practically take the whole thing apart to access the ptfe tubes feeding into the hub. Had they added an access hatch on the bottom, you could just flip it over, pull a panel, and get access to the tubes to clear a jam. Instead I'm stressing two tiny wire connectors every time I need to disassemble it to clear a jam.

@VeryCuul

26 күн бұрын

That’s strange, I’ve ran like 20 spools in the ams and have never had a single piece of filament break that way. Sometimes it has been slightly too wide for the ams so it got stuck, but unclipping the back rubber thing allowed me to get enough tension to pull it out.

@DeanRockne

26 күн бұрын

@@VeryCuul when filament gets brittle and sits for a while, the tension from the spool can cause it to snap at the entry. If it wasn't the material currently loaded, you'll be left with a stump inside the AMS that's too short to feed or pull through. So it immediately gets stuck when the AMS attempts to load from that slot. The failure itself is caused by bad filament, not the AMS. Regardless, the AMS certainly could make it easier to access all filament pathways.

Just found about you, great work man! Love the efforts.

Every man has a printer dream

I didn’t think of it like that when you said the nozzles are supposed to break. Just like a car, it’s designed to absorb the impact. Very good point there.

Thanks for the heads up about reinforced nozzles. I hope this tip saves somebody.

The camera going purple is a failure that usually happens when they don't handle the heat over time. The higher chamber temperatures you have, the sooner they go purple.

@AaronPaluzzi

Ай бұрын

Is it a heat issue? I know on cars window tint goes purple when you use Windex anywhere in the car. It's the ammonia. I'd be curious if using Windex on the clear panels is causing the camera lens to go purple

I’m really looking forward to their next flagship, I hope they listen to their community and all the simple issues that people have had and make a great printer

Thanks for the tips, never realized about the PTFE tube contacting the glass!!

@yolo6741

28 күн бұрын

Yes, the PTFE tube rubs on the glass burI had not so much left over as in the video. I changed mine now after around 1500 print hours.

@certified-forklifter

28 күн бұрын

especially since PTFE is a magnitude more nasty for the environment because it's considered a forever plastic :(

Your videomaking and your confidence looks professional, keep it up :)

@roughiness

Ай бұрын

Thanks! :)

When the word Perfect is in the title you know that you are working with a great printer. I too have bambu printers, Prusa and any cubic. The non Bambu printers I do not think you can use the word perfect anywhere near them. Prusa is , or was dependable but my babus are MORE dependable and better quality printers. I have no qualms with my D2 Resin DLP any cubic though, extreme detail and just awesome!!! Nice video.. keep em comin

Great job on your video! I'm hard of hearing and found that your are very easy to understand. Keep up the good work and congrats on nearly 10k views, I'm thrilled when I get into the hundreds of views - LOL.

I reached out to bambu about the bed going down first issue because all my prints are very tall. Bambulab tech support informed me the software uses much less amperage during these initial movements and the incredible sound it produces is not one to worry about 😅. I don’t feel it is so necessary to go as far down on Z initially but they do it to avoid tool head collisions with the bed. I run 5 bambu lab core XY machines 23/7. So far 8k in hours and they are all still killing it. I have had to upgrade to the hardened extruder gear on all of them but other than that they are absolutely the best work horses I have ever had.

Another thing. Maintenance. These thing are really not built to be taken apart. I have just had to replace my belt on the p1s. and man.. NEVER AGAIN. The side panels and everything have to be stripped from the machine. There are so many hidden screws I refuse to put back in. idler pulleys squeak. Petg prints can be iffy although there are custom profiles for that. And the printers can be quite loud. But again there are mufflers and sound deadening you can help reduce this.

Regarding the Z homing crashing in to the bottom of the printer - if it happens, check around the rear Z leadscrew for stray poop that has fallen down the back.

Please provide a link to the bed trimming knobs.

I have four with 2k hours each. I'm an expert at repairing them and now I'm gonna buy another 4 with the sale. In all, I've maybe done 10-12 hours in repairs with 6 months of printing all day and night. I will never purchase another printer that isn't a bambu. Company is for production, if you want to tinker then pick up a k1. 😂 I reroll everything onto bambu spools, or pop the sides off and put it on. That solves majority of all the ams issues I had on the first two months of farming.

NIce review witch gives me a good idea what to expect when being one. I will start with the A1 probably. See if its good for the purposes I want it and then when being ready to go manufacturing stuff, I can get a Carbon. AMS - not really necessary because for modelbuilding everything will be painted anyway. Keep up the reviews !

@marschma

Ай бұрын

highly suggest to not use FDM for scale models. you will never achieve a surface finish that hides the layer lines, no matter the printer or layer height. If you want truly good looking models, you need SLA: resin printing.

@paulogic-ctraccs

Ай бұрын

@@marschma Thanks for the advise but Resis in no option for me. I don't want those toxic product in my house... If I want 1/45 persons, I can buy those or have them printed in resin by a friend. I only want to make add-ons for the lasercut Kit's I create. eg : a chimney, a airco unit. Those can be sanded...😄

@roughiness

27 күн бұрын

I think the P1 will suit you just fine, unless you really want the touchscreen and LiDAR. It’s definitely really awesome though, can‘t go wrong with either one. And thanks for the kind words, I‘ll definitely keep making more content, it’s super fun :)

Great Video, great Channel

Very nice video. If I had a wish I would ask you to add links to the tools (like the bed trimming nobs) that helped you in the your comment / description of the video. Wish you fun dismantling your AMS to get it up and running again - I did it now a serval times for maintenance or repair reasons. Especially you should check the PTFE tubes inside when you run your AMS for such a long time. I was very surprised how thin they got.

@roughiness

28 күн бұрын

I added them in the description now. Completely forgot about that when I uploaded the vid. Thanks for letting me know :) Interestingly enough my AMS sort of fixed itself. The slots work again, but they still fail to pull back at the end of each print.

I find with the lightweight spools, kapton tape on the spool edges, and leaving the lid lifted with the lil lock down feet. i also tend to add extra slack on the filement by spinning the spool a bit. Annoying, but it helps me finish spools

Thanks for your candor

I had that 3d printed part on my p1s. Two days after i bought it. I had filament stuck in the extruder and ended taking it apart to clean. I created a support ticket where employees noticed that 3d printed part in one of the pictures i sent. The mentioned that its not recommended as it can cause layer shifting issues. Not sure if thats true. Kinda new here. Just thought id throw it out there

hey thanks, original take, I liked it. Interested in the fix for the ptfe tube and the bed tramming... Please include them :-)

@roughiness

Ай бұрын

I might do a seperate video on that. I put some links in the description for the files :)

@DrZylvon

18 күн бұрын

@@roughiness thanks! looking forward to the next videos

I want to buy a new printer. Creality K1C or Bambu P1S. Which is better? Any recommendation?

@roughiness

13 күн бұрын

I have no experience with the K1, but the things I have heard about their app are already enough of a reason to never touch one of them. The Bambu printers are awesome, this video was mainly focusing on some things that annoy me about them, but they are in my opinion the best machines out there, at least for my use case. I‘d say either Bambu or Prusa, creality is pretty mid imo.

I respectfully disagree on a lot of your points. I have over 2000 hours on mine and have 5 AMS units. I agree that the printers are far from perfect and that they get dirty fairly quickly. I haven't had any of the issues you've described. I also use my 5th AMS for multi-colored TPU printing. Maybe I got lucky ... Have a great day! Also as soon as I could I bought a Revo hotend. Then immediately bought a Panda Revo as soon as they were available.

@roughiness

Ай бұрын

This video is still more about my observations with my machines and AMS, I‘m sure some people out there have much better experiences and it‘s awesome that your five AMS’s work well! I know that you can print slower filaments well with these machines once calibrated enough like another comment mentioned, I could have worded that a bit better. Would you mind telling me what profile / settings you use for TPU?

@ScottStoneUnforgivenII

Ай бұрын

@@roughiness The AMA is modified to run TPU. I can find the link to the creator that figured it out if you like. I am using the OAB TPU process profile I found on Printables. I am using the stock Bambu settings for TPU, the only thing I changed was disabling retraction. I had to set up a dummy profile to run the TPU in the AMS. Even in Orca Slicer.

@ScottStoneUnforgivenII

Ай бұрын

@@roughiness kzread.info/dash/bejne/Z3eK05h9qca7f6g.htmlsi=j6OLS0gqqV4Syl9O

@ScottStoneUnforgivenII

Ай бұрын

@@roughiness I do realize where you are coming from. It just didn't come off the way you intended. At least not to my ears. Either way, I just wanted to share my experience in return. 🙂

@mortegutt

18 күн бұрын

Thank you for a thorough reply. I just ordered my p1s AMS printer, hopefully it will arrive this week. Did you use the same profile with the panda revo hotend? Do you use the obxidian hotend or the high flow one? I read somewhere that the 0,6 and 0,8mm nozzle hotend profiles aren't properly tuned out of the box...

How are you measuring wear on the CF rods? residue on the rods is usually from filament not from the rods themselves, when you clean them you're cleaning them off due to filament that creates dust more often than not. the CF rods can be bought for $85 U.S. vs Qidi and other competitors which are permanent and make the printer disposable; worth a notation that they sell them in case you somehow did wear them out or damage them.

@roughiness

28 күн бұрын

As I said in the video, I noticed that when a printer is new, there is much more residue on the rods than compared to one with over 1k hours for example. For example I cleaned my X1 recently after around a month of printing without cleaning, and the rods were mostly spotless. On the other hand all of my P1‘s and my X1 back when I bought them all had a ton of residue when I cleaned them the first couple of times. You can also see wear patterns on the rods. That doesn’t mean they’ll break or anything, but when two surfaces contact each other and move around there will be friction, and with that comes wear.

I LISTEN TO MONEY MACHINE ON FULL VOLUME EVERYDAY

@roughiness

25 күн бұрын

You listen to 100 gecs and bladee? You’re a real one. Their songs slap so much even though some sound kinda bad at first 😂 I’m gonna put more drain gang stuff in my vids

I love the random BLADEE clips

have you had any experience with the a1 from bambu?

@roughiness

Ай бұрын

No, not yet at least.

I love mine best printer I’ve ever had

I have over 1600 hours on my X1C and I just use Windex maybe once every other month? what PLA are you using that leaves this much residue on the glass?????? it's probably why you think the rods are 'wearing' it's probably residue from the PLA you're using

@roughiness

28 күн бұрын

That wasn’t PLA, but the leftovers of the PTFE tube.

So fed up with (what seems like) tech influencers shilling bamboo. Enjoyed the counter arguments :) thanks

@roughiness

23 күн бұрын

Thanks! It seemed to me like there are a lot of problems people don’t really talk about with these machines. There are definitely more things that I noticed but didn’t mention in the video, the editing already took me too long, so that would have been a bit of nightmare to add even more footage.

Starting to get SD Card not found errors on one of my printers.

@roughiness

27 күн бұрын

The same is also happening to me on one of my machines

No link to the parts?

@roughiness

28 күн бұрын

Added them now.

Surprised the AMS is pretty much all plastic.. Probably the reason the A1 and A1 minis have crash detection is cause they're more recent, and Bambu probably realized that would be something good to have after the first set, esp for printers that less experienced individuals would most likely be getting. Would be nice if it could be retrofitted to their Core XY printers, but at this point it's probably not really worth it to them since they're probably already working on the next iteration ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

@roughiness

23 күн бұрын

I mean they implemented noise cancelling just with a software update, and the printer already homes itself with pressure when it touches the corners, so they sort of have one already, so I don‘t really understand why it wouldn’t be possible. Maybe there is some sort of reason for that.

@TS_Mind_Swept

23 күн бұрын

@@roughiness I mean the pressure from the homing comes from a load cell in the tool head and not the bed itself, so 🤷🏿‍♀️

@roughiness

23 күн бұрын

Oh I didn’t know that, thanks for letting me know. I thought it homes itself by touching a wall and then it detects the current for the motor going up.

i has serious bed adhesion with my X1 and the cool plate. Glue made things worse. I got this issue now resolved. Every about 5 prints I was with soap. But with every print I was with glass cleaner and it works perfectly every time. But that glue stick. What a nightmare it was. I don’t understand why this was ever a good idea or. If it works but it doesn’t at all with me.

@roughiness

27 күн бұрын

Get a PEI, it’s worth it, trust me :)

@Slurgical_3D_Terrain_Channel

27 күн бұрын

@@roughiness I am planning to. Sharing my experience with that crappy cool plate. I’m on limited budget, until I build up my store and channel, all extra cash is going into PLA and related craft supplies for my channel to promote my terrain.

@roughiness

27 күн бұрын

@@Slurgical_3D_Terrain_Channel There are some really affordable PEIs on AliExpress, I got one when I bought the X1 and it’s been working perfectly for over a year. Was around 11 bucks with shipping.

@Slurgical_3D_Terrain_Channel

27 күн бұрын

@@roughiness thanks, I will look into it

NA REALLY?! Also really love the review

@roughiness

28 күн бұрын

Nuh uh

I FIND THE SLOWER I PRINT THE BETTER THE QUALITY THE PRINT IS

@roughiness

27 күн бұрын

Interesting, can’t say the same for any of my machines. What speeds do you print?

NEVER HAD A JAM DUE TO EMPTY SPOOLS?

elegoo rapid petg 600mm/s

@anishnattamai8801

Ай бұрын

What layer height? What’s your max flow set to?

Mashalla Haare sind baba

@roughiness

Ай бұрын

😂

Regarding your gripes with cleaning the lead screws: Ever tried the rodsloth? kzread.info/dash/bejne/a2uhr7Czp7vMYNI.html

You might want to stop putting cardboard spools in the AMS.

@roughiness

26 күн бұрын

I‘ve had the same issue with plastic spools, as well as cardboard spools with plastic rings. Perhaps the rollers on mine are a little undergreased.

Never heard of 100 gecs, but made the mistake of listening to Money Machine.....wtf?

@roughiness

27 күн бұрын

You get used to it

Your opinion on PETG is based on your on how many hours of printing with it? You just say what others have not succeeded with on forums is my guess :) U got it wrong with speed. i can do 1-40mms prints with petg (as this is the main filament i use) that are super. both pretty and strong. 0 fan for those. 0 ringing 0 vfa. i do bolt my machines to a concrete floor and then weigh the chassis with about 15 kg of ballast for motion rigidity. the worst thing u can do is the soft "anti vibration" feet. rigidity and lower speed with a successful motor noise and inputshaping cali these things can do up to about 220mms with 8k accel before they cannot comp anymore. all rigs have their "frequency zones" where they give off vfa, its part of the game. the trick is to find the speeds it does not produce vfa. also to go over the head and tighten ALL u can get at, mine came with four loose screws on the hotend..also changing the fans on the hotend to proper fans from, lets say noctua. along with a lock-piece for the headcover will take away most of the x axis artifacts. Regarding the screws on the bed. you are just an inside person with weak grip imo. i dont find them hard to turn at all. 🤭 ringing on these machines is down to incorrect filament tuning, starting with k-factor. then flow, then temp. with these machines its about flowrate and temp.. not speed. do a maxflowrate test for the temprange you want to print in. that shows u what flow ur hotend can handle with that temp and that filament. then slice and change to flow view. verify that speeds are inline with your just performed flowtest. Gucci.. u need to fiddle with the temps for the cool plate buddy.. i run mine for pla on 55, 0 glue 100% stick. 70% squish. u gotta fiddle to get it to stick to it. i noticed that on bl forums there is an echochamber effect. ppl there will ask you , but why not use stock instead of trying to help you. and others will comment that they have no problems. so i stay away from it. learn from my mistakes mate.. good machines poor community of "masters" currently using this method and i usually make 4 filament profiles for each one. Low flow 1-5, Medium low flow 5-10, Medium flow 10-18 and Full flow 18-33. ( i use a highflow thirdparty hotend to get 33) the temps are also stepped the same way to accommodate the time spent in the meltzone. so low is 245-255, med low 250-255, med 255-260, full 265-275. your milage may vary. welcome to the fff family buddy. u got the right mindset to do this craft, go at it and watch the machine work to learn its secrets is my best advice.

@BeautyBeastRC

Ай бұрын

yea i'm a beginner and petg has been good for me! just have to dry it first.

@reyalPRON

Ай бұрын

@@BeautyBeastRC I dont even bother mate. i got 0 strings on rolls that have been exposed to a basement for weeks. i found a software set limit of 30mms for the extruder in the printer settings cog. change the max extruder motion limit to 40mms. the printer will not retract faster than 30mms no matter what you set in filament override as this limit is applied to the gcode. 30mms is not enough for petg as it plasticizes at a different viscosity than most other filament. u can set whatever you want as override and it wil ignore it and set 30mms anyway. with 40mms i can do retractions over short distances (0-5 cm) with as little as 0.2mm retraction. for longer travel moves i found that i got the same no strings result from 0.6-2mm as i got from 2-4. (corner to corner motion) think this is bug i the "code" from bl, or their extruder is not as good as they want to tell us. i have run this 40mms limit for a few weeks with no problems, no strings, no blobs. all this found by watching the printer work.

@reyalPRON

Ай бұрын

@@BeautyBeastRC I dont even bother mate. i got 0 strings on rolls that have been exposed to a basement for weeks. what i do is find the extrusion limit for a given temp yeah, then i slice the model with the highest flow profile and look at the flow view, then compare that with the layertime view. i try to lower the mms cubed on the filament profile until i get a uniform extrusion flow with an as even as i can get layertime and its off to the races ;) flow+temp+printspeed and retraction speed/distance = success. personal tip(most of the stock profiles provided are WAY to fast for the volume extruded) they provide a startingpoint that is optimistic at best imo. i found a software set limit of 30mms for the extruder in the printer settings cog. change the max extruder motion limit to 40mms. the printer will not retract faster than 30mms no matter what you set in filament override as this limit is applied to the gcode per default. 30mms is not enough for petg as it plasticizes at a different viscosity than most other filament. u can set whatever you want as override and it wil ignore it and set 30mms anyway. with 40mms i can do retractions over short distances (0-5 cm) with as little as 0.2mm retraction. for longer travel moves i found that i got the same no strings result from 0.6-2mm as i got from 2-4. (corner to corner motion) think this is bug in the "code" from bl, or their extruder is not as good as they want to tell us. i have run this 40mms limit for a few weeks with no problems, no strings, no blobs. all this found by watching the printer work.

@R3DPrints01

Ай бұрын

You only run up to 40mm/s for PETG? Im running mine at 300mm/s

@roughiness

Ай бұрын

I experimented with PETG in the past and the pictures that I found looked exactly like what I got with my PETG prints, so I just used those for the video. I usually don‘t surf around the Bambu Forum at all, I try to avoid Reddit in general. (Just don‘t like the platform) My machines are all manually calibrated (Flow Rate / Pressure Advance ) In General my experience with PETG is just with the standard profiles. I admit that I am not a master and this video is more about things that I noticed / experienced, and wanted to talk about because it might help someone. I‘m certain that you can get really good prints with PETG and other slow filaments, maybe I could have worded that a bit better. I dislike the cool plate mainly because of its ugly first layer, the glue is what makes it even worse imo. It still works of course and isn‘t inherently „bad“. Just not my thing. And the knobs believe me they are extremely tight on my X1, the ones on my P1 are much easier. Or maybe I just suck who knows 🙃

bist du deutscher?

@roughiness

23 күн бұрын

Nix deutsch

@3ddruck410

17 күн бұрын

@@roughiness i thought because u sound a little like i do when i speak englisch, great video btw❤

Ew pla