BAD First Layer Your K1 and K1 Max Printer? Here's how to get the best results.

If you own a K1 Max, you know what I'm talking about. I love the printer, but getting a good first layer seemed nearly impossible... that is until now!
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The K1 series of printers has to be one of my favorite of all time, I don't have a Voron to compare against, but I do have a Bambu, and I really like the Bambu as well, but it's not quite as open to adjustments as the K1 printers are.
The smaller K1 is good, it performs really well, I've been really happy with it, I think for the price it's one of the best out there at the moment. The K1 Max is a bigger and meaner version of the K1, but it also comes with a bit of a hidden problem. When you try to get a good first layer, it seems like it's impossible. The results keep changing, I was never able to dial it in exactly, so what's going on with this printer, or the firmware, or who know?
Well in this video we find out exactly why we're having the problem and not only that, we're going to take it one step further and show how you can get even better results than you thought possible.
I hope you enjoy the video and find it helpful. If you do, consider subscribing or buying me a coffee on Patreon to help support the channel. I do everything myself and I want to continue to bring the best possible videos and solutions to you.
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NEW MIC (I bought this)
amzn.to/3vcMKAr - Rode Wireless ME mic (Saved me about 4+ hours/vid)
amzn.to/3NBFvZe - Mag clip (Super handy, but a little pricy)
BAMBU PRINTERS
shrsl.com/4aghz
CREALITY PRINTERS
shrsl.com/4aghy
CREALITY HYPER PLA
shrsl.com/4aghn
How to Root:
github.com/Guilouz/Creality-K...
#creality
#crealityk1
#3dprinting

Пікірлер: 269

  • @stew675
    @stew675

    Heat Soaking the larger beds is critical. This can be achieved in the slicer print-start G-code for the printer by adding "G4 P300000" after the code that warms the bed, and before the first G28 that does the bed homing and levelling. "G4 P300000" basically asks the printer to dwell/idle for 5 minutes before homing/leveling. Doing this allows for the bed's temperature to equalise. Alter that 300000 as required. 10 minutes would require "G4 P600000" instead.

  • @LaxLegion
    @LaxLegion

    my man is on a mission to fix crealitys incompetence bit by bit

  • @twsbibanghorn7343
    @twsbibanghorn734314 күн бұрын

    Doesn't it have an AI system that's supposed to sort all this out automatically?

  • @shahram677
    @shahram677

    would you please share this Stl bed level test file?

  • @DJL7777
    @DJL7777

    In the netherlands this printer currently goes for around 800 euros. I'm sorry but that is just way too expensive for a printer that (according to feedback comments roughly 80% of the cases) needs tweeking and modding out of the box?! I will wait until creality gets their quality up to standard for that kind of pricing.

  • @kayquexavier
    @kayquexavier

    I tried putting a glass sheet over the heated plate, and glued a pei sheet metal over the glass, no missed first layers anymore.

  • @thomaswiley666
    @thomaswiley666

    Think of bed mesh this way: the printer plots (physically measuring) real points and then guesses the space in between these points using an algorithm. In this case, stock K1 Max (assuming the same for K1) measures 36 real points (6x6 grid) and then mathematically guesses 220 points (guessed points between measured points: 2 for both x-axis and y-axis). Mathematically speaking -- 14% of the bed mesh points are real points and the rest, 86%, is computationally guessed at.

  • @zynlycl
    @zynlycl

    Amazing information

  • @gannensan
    @gannensan

    great video

  • @unknownmysterious7585
    @unknownmysterious758521 күн бұрын

    how do you use Kamp once installed?

  • @cobalttyreal
    @cobalttyreal

    pretty cool, had this on my watch later list for a while now. im now adding it to my 3d printing favorites list for future reference.

  • @RestoDesignsnando
    @RestoDesignsnando

    You are a life saver, I'm totally new to 3d printing! I have a K1 max and printing in ASA with the bed temp at 100c, the item was a 210x210mm base and it was hit and miss to ever get the first layer down, did like you showed heating the bed for 10 mins to 100c and wow perfect, works every time. Thank you so much 🙏🏼👍🏼

  • @bradyaero
    @bradyaero

    Excellent video thank you, its great to understand that pre-heating more will get us consistency, I was wondering why my mesh was always changing between scans. I have had very few failed prints with my K1 Max and will be happy to fine tune it thanks to this video.

  • @iwannaratrod
    @iwannaratrod

    I have implemented this strategy and it along with adding bed adjustability the root have mad my K1 Max a much better printer. Thanks a ton for these how-tos.

  • @johnbeardon4475
    @johnbeardon4475

    Really useful and intersting video. Thank you! Half a mm of movement during stabilisation is an eye-opener!

  • @Bmwclub-ps8dx
    @Bmwclub-ps8dx

    i just bought the k1 max this helps a lot thank you so so so much!!!

  • @ShaunBennett
    @ShaunBennett

    I rooted my K1 before I did any printing so i don't have a base for comparison. That said I love running Klipper on all my machines and the K1 does a very nice job, especially with Abs and other materials that need a heated chamber. I got mine about a week ago and I think creality may have actually listened to the comments and really made an effort to fix the issues that came with the earier versions...mine has been plug and play. I rooted it and run Klipper w/ Fluidd, KAMP, and moonraker. Workes well. Great video and thanks for the info...i edited my config for a 10 min wait. Will be testing this now.

  • @djcrusador
    @djcrusador

    Thanks mate I needed this. Running into the same issues

  • @DavidBealeakaFKD
    @DavidBealeakaFKD

    Just bought a K1 Max the other day, printed some PLA to start, worked very well, then tried PET-G and two failed first layers - now I know why. Thanks. I'll preheat to 80 and leave it there 10 min. I'll have to figure out how to edit the config file to change the prob temp to 80°. I was able to get better results using the glue they supplied and is recommended on the machine. Have never played with flow rates but having paused the machine a couple of time to pick off big blobs I will have to learn how to do that too. This is my third printer and looking forward to getting better at printing on it. Thanks for this video.

  • @Maleboligia
    @Maleboligia

    Thank you very much, I am planning to root my K1 Max and I am definitely going to trying Kamp.