This is beyond epic, I don’t know how you do it! Next level timelapse! 😉💪 awesome work Michael 😊

Great work Michael, very informative! I can't wait to see the editing video. It seems like you were the first to arrive and the last to leave :-) Respect!

This was really cool mate! Can’t wait for part 03 to see how you are gonna put it all together ;)

Great part 2! I wish there was an option to set the max aperture, f/22 is way to much for me! 😬 looking forward for part 3! 😊

Thank you for the great video ,i never made any comment i always was suck in all the good info ur given can wait to see the finish video i wanna thank you to make me better understend the beautifull Z6

Just sublime. I cannot believe you made us wait soooooooooo long ... something to aspire to, I tell you !!!

@matt.pereira

4 жыл бұрын

@@LondonViewpoints Very much looking forward to the edit video now ... PLEASE don't make us wait another year !! 😂

Thanks for this video! I was trying some holy grail timelapse with my z50 in P mode with auto ISO but at some point the sequence is going faster than the first or last part(it depends sunrise or sunset) so i guess the problem is to correctly set the minimum shutter speed and the maximum ISO? Is that correct? Can you make an example to set iso and shutter with P mode? Thanks and happy new year 🎉

@LondonViewpoints

5 ай бұрын

So yes the shutter can’t be longer then interval, and you also need to allow for a gap to write the file, and if you set iso max too low then you have to also set interval priority on but it can fail so best to leave iso max high

There is auto ND system in the film industry, like sony FX6 FX9, they are designed for video purpose but seems very ideal to timelapser, but the only drawback is these cameras cannot acctually take photos, maybe too expensive for a DSLR to get the same function I think, or Cinefade, also a system making ND changed automatically

@LondonViewpoints

3 жыл бұрын

Yes I do imagine this is too small of a niche for any filter brand to even consider making, while dslr or mirrorless brands also see it the exact same way

If i have a deflicker software, do i need to do the nd filter process still?

Great timelapse Don't you fear depth of field changes become visible when you go from f/4 to f/22 ?

@fabienb

4 жыл бұрын

I would add that perception plays a big part as well: focus is on Tower Bridge and stays there even when closing the aperture so the main subject focus doesn't change. And also in a video like this you're more likely to watch the changes in the sky than on the buildings' sharpness therefore you probably don't have to worry much about that. I would worry more about introducing diffraction, or the lens flare when you put more glass (filters) between the sensor and the sun, but then again the movement in the scene is what you really pay attention to so I think it's only us geeks who would think about looking at these minute details ;)

Love the tutorial! Question though....did you do a manual focus and left it as is for the whole time lapse? And did the ND filter created issues with focus?

@LondonViewpoints

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks, yes manual focus always, and no the ND didn’t Crete any issues as that’s only a DSLR viewfinder thing, not a mirrorless evf or lcd issue 👍🏻

@itsuzairkhan

3 жыл бұрын

@@LondonViewpoints thanks for the quick reply. Unfortunately I don't have a mirrorless yet so will be trying it on Nikon D810.

Everything is great.. but my z6 in P mode doesn't respond. I can't change Aperture and shutter speed. Can you please help me with this? Thanks

@LondonViewpoints

2 жыл бұрын

I think I know what you mean, sometimes it doesn’t change settings straight away but once you keep spinning that dial it eventually starts pushing the aperture in the desired direction

@Rene-cm6go

2 жыл бұрын

@@LondonViewpoints Thanks.. I will check it.

I like your method! I am using a D750 and in addition to the P Mode I am also using the onboard intervolometer. Seems to be working and saving the extra piece of gear. Have you tried it and any pros or cons I should consider?

@LondonViewpoints

4 жыл бұрын

Hey, yes I use it often, mostly when just shooting a non light changing sequences in manual settings than always, but often i shoot P mode in in-body 4k timelapse mode when I want a long video without the bother of editing raws, and it still does a great job smoothing out the transition 👍🏻

How do you set your interval time with the shutter changing so much? I use my built-in intervalometer so perhaps it's not possible to change it on the go?

@LondonViewpoints

3 жыл бұрын

You don’t change the interval time, best to keep that contant

@samuelequaranta1108

3 жыл бұрын

@@LondonViewpoints what if I want to shoot the stars after sunset? Let's say I want 15sec max exposure, wouldn't that be too long for smooth sunset?

@LondonViewpoints

3 жыл бұрын

@@samuelequaranta1108 yeah 15s is a quick sunset, but as you’ll probably shot wide later for astro, it should be fine, but of course it’s not as smooth as sunset shot at 1s at 500mm

@samuelequaranta1108

3 жыл бұрын

@@LondonViewpoints yeah, I'll take it as fast as it will come out...thanks for taking the time to reply!

Why do you use an external intervalometer.

@LondonViewpoints

4 ай бұрын

Sometimes I want to ramp by hand rather than let the meter decide how much to protect or overexpose the sun

Hello Michael. May I ask where do you set the metering and if open full or closed center of viewfinder or focused on something? This info may help a lot. Thanks for this tutorial. Love it!

@LondonViewpoints

4 жыл бұрын

Hi, I got metering set to wide as if the sun would apprear in the middle and then hide behind anything (like the towers) it would better differently so wide works best from my tests. Again it’s worth mentioning that this menthol is ideal for when you leave a camera in a hotel room window and sleep or go out yet want a somewhat good day to night timelapse, while if you can be there by the camera it’s best to ramp yourself via WiFi ideally 👍🏻

@Meldium

4 жыл бұрын

@@LondonViewpoints OK Thanks a lot. I see your point. I just got an ND filter yesturday from Amazon but received it after i tried to do a time laps. I know its gonna be different than you because to start with I have a G85. So features are different. Mayor learning curve.

Thanks for the information!!!! Which intervalometer did u use? Which one do you recommend?

@LondonViewpoints

3 жыл бұрын

Currently using youpro 880 and it does the job 👍🏻

@dalcu27

3 жыл бұрын

@@LondonViewpoints thanks

great video! where exactly are you standing currently for the time lapse?

@maximanger7928

4 жыл бұрын

@@LondonViewpoints Thanks ;) No, I mean on which bridge are you standing in your video 😊

Im a bit lost on this, how are you setting your exposure to 6 secs? I have mine on P* I have set my auto ISO, turning the wheel will adjust my aperture but I cant seem to figure out how to set my starting point exposure,

@LondonViewpoints

4 жыл бұрын

P is an auto mode, so if you’re starting from daytime , unless you put a strong filter on you won’t get anymore than 1/30 or so even at f16. Starting from nighttime should work fine but you’ll have to bare in mind that without any filter daytime will go to 1/30 Or so

@paulbarrett423

4 жыл бұрын

@@LondonViewpoints thx very much for taking the time to reply. it is much appreciated,

Hey Michael brilliant video. Quick question, why did you opt for an external intervalometer?

@AntonCaines

4 жыл бұрын

@@LondonViewpoints Thank you for your reply. |'m really glad that I asked as I had assumed that you were making the changes based on the back screen. Thank you so much for your videos I have learnt so much.

@phytrek

4 жыл бұрын

@@AntonCaines wondered the same... London Viewpoints answer is missing here? could you send me the answer to your question?

@Swallowtail34

4 ай бұрын

Any answer to this question, was wondering this myself.

Hi Michael, would you say this is also achievable with a 2-3 stop ND filter during a day to night holy grail?

@LondonViewpoints

4 жыл бұрын

Hi Oliver, absolutely yes, all depends on how bright is the day and how dark is the night but you can just do it without a vari Nd, but I find it helps to smooth the water or avoid birds and strobing in daytime 👍🏻

@oliverjames6391

4 жыл бұрын

Going to try out Program Priority setting today instead of QDSLR and see what happens 👀

@LondonViewpoints

4 жыл бұрын

Oliver James worth a try for sure👍🏻the next video I should do is explaining when would I use what timelapse technique like P when I’m leaving the camera in the hotel and not going to be there, but manual ramping via WiFi when I’m by the camera, with P mode watch out for unexpected bright light sources appearing in your composition as that might affect the camera’s settings, but P works great for when there’s a simple day2night or night2day 👍🏻

@oliverjames6391

4 жыл бұрын

@@LondonViewpoints And would you recommend any interval time? I was thinking if max shutter I am aiming for is 2/3 seconds, I could get away with an interval of 5-6 seconds.

@LondonViewpoints

4 жыл бұрын

Interval is based on what you’re shooting or what you need the final video for, a holy grail at 7s for 4hours will still get you 30sec or so clip which even for a KZread video is long, but you can always use just the pink sky and that will play for a few seconds, all depends. Also before judging how much max shutter vs interval time black time you need, just test if for example 1” shutter and 2” interval in 200seconds will save you 100files, or if less than it skipped so you need more than 1” between shutter and interval, always good to do raw speed write test on your camera to know what’s it capable of and when it will skip frames if you choose to small gap for the file to write 👍🏻

I hope all is well where you are. That probably translates to, "I know its not real great but I hope you're doing well". I'm misunderstanding something fundamental. Doesn't matter what I have tried, I cannot get my Z6 to operate like this in P mode. It basically varies the ISO and holds the shutter speed and that's it. I'm wondering if where I am going wrong is not starting light enough, or dark enough in the day, but that's not ringing entirely true because I've tried using it in a manner similar to one of your earlier clips where you point the thing at the light and the camera stops down to F16 and then when pointing into the dark it opens up. Mine basically just varies the ISO and tries to make a neutral exposure every time. Also, you say that you're setting a maximum exposure time in camera, presumably under the Auto ISO section. This is the Min Shutter speed however, which i'm assuming has to be the reciprocal of the lens focal length as a guide. On top of this, if I turn on Auto ISO at all using P mode, the Auto ISO options are then greyed out. P mode is complex!

@LondonViewpoints

3 жыл бұрын

Hey, thanks, yes it’s so so round here, hope you’re well. I don’t know how else to explain P mode, yes you do have to have auto iso and you choose min exposure based on how long you want it to still allow some time for the interval to write the raw file, but it’s got nothing to do with the focal length of your lens, that’s only a handheld guide. Once you’re in P mode try first setting iso manually to 51200, then dialling the control wheel to max f22 or so, to push it to longest exposure more and then switch auto iso ON with your preset max exposure and it should all click in place wehere it needs to be 👍🏻

@dionysusrex9183

3 жыл бұрын

@@LondonViewpoints Yes, all well here, Australia has fared pretty well, so far. I think that my camera has issues. I got P (flexible) mode working by turning off a button customisation (record and rear command dial to change Auto AF area modes). But with Auto ISO turned on it fails to work so who knows! Could be another button customisation that i've set somewhere, but i've removed any that involved the rear command dial. Version 3.0 firmware was working intermittently without the customisation removed, version 3.20 works as above. Might try an all settings reset. Thanks for your help! Stay safe

@donelvis5

3 жыл бұрын

@@LondonViewpoints Good day London, hobbyist photographer here. Seen your view many times and trying to replicate your settings to fit my Sony A7R II. When going in P-mode, setting the camera to F22 with ISO 51200, after this do you then set Auto ISO to the range of 100 - 51200 ? How come such a high ISO in the end ? I cannot set max shutter speed like in your camera, but i'm able to set "Auto ISO minimum shutter speed". Thanks for your videos, they are very helpfull to me.

@LondonViewpoints

3 жыл бұрын

@@donelvis5 I say max as it’s the length, but camera makes call the Min as it’s the slowest shutter speed so it’s the same setting, once the aperture opens wide and there’s no heavy nd filters mounted your iso will never go this high as long as your shutter is a reasonable 7-10s interval

Do you see the aperture stopping down in the video from f4 to 22?

@LondonViewpoints

4 жыл бұрын

You can’t really tell as with a native Z lens all vignetting corrections are happening in camera straight into the raw file so apart from DOF if you had something really close in the foreground you wouldn’t be able to tell

@amacmedia3221

4 жыл бұрын

London Viewpoints that’s great to learn, as I tend not to change my aperture when using a dslr for time lapse

What a gorgeous shot that was! I'm jealous :) Perhaps you will talk about this in part 3 (I've not seen it yet), but the first thing that occurred to me is how will LRTTimelapse deal with the unpredictable changes in ISO you mentioned? If they happen too often, I'm not sure how clever it is about whether to mark them as HG keyframes or to leave them alone (it's not something I've really experimented with). I do like the simplicity of this approach, though I also think it has some minor drawbacks (e.g. the aperture goes all the way shut, and also that issue with the shutter speed changing as the sun went behind the structure of the bridge). But it looks as if the option isn't open to me, anyway. I've just checked the manual for my Sony a77 SLT, and P mode on the a77 just allows you to set the ISO (actually you can at least set a range, I think), after which the camera chooses the other settings. It's possible to change the shutter speed temporarily with the front dial, and the aperture adjusts accordingly, but on the next shot it will reset. They should have called it "I mode", not "P mode" (I for ISO)...

@LondonViewpoints

4 жыл бұрын

Indeed it seems it doesn't work on all cameras, maybe on more of the newer models? Been getting some feedback from various brand users telling me it does work on theirs too. Yes, you are right that this mode isn't perfect, nor it should be, I would only really use it when I can't be by the camera, maybe like a hotel room when I'm out, because you're right in saying that if a sudden light condition changes or some light or headlamp points at the cameral, within a few frames it would unfortunately start adjusting to it, which is understandable as that's what this mode meant to do, i don't think anyone desinging P mode thought "hey, this could really work well on holy grail timelapses" but i found out it kind of does

Wonder how to do this on Fuji XT3?

@LondonViewpoints

4 жыл бұрын

Don’t know, try and let me know 👍🏻

@MGrose407

4 жыл бұрын

London Viewpoints Thanks! I’m going to try tomorrow, just figured it out.