The first clip down the river..... 👏 👏 👏

I paused the video to say "What an awesome transition from day to night and vice verse regarding light changes. That is what persuaded me to keep watching". Great stuff.

@LondonViewpoints

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks a lot, and that’s exactly what I’m teaching in this series 😀

Really amazing work with the time lapse!! Very beautiful!!! I really want to try it some day!! 🔥🔥 More people should really watch your videos!!

This is absolutely genius, can't believe I still can't find this technique anywhere else despite you uploading it almost 3 years ago! I also have a Nikon z6 so is double great! Than you for sharing this technique

@LondonViewpoints

2 жыл бұрын

You’re welcome, it has its challenges like the increased aperture flicker at high f stops but still LRT timelapses can deflicker them

I only have 2 minutes here, and I already love your work. Way to go!

@LondonViewpoints

4 жыл бұрын

Glad to hear this, hope if and when you find more time you will be able to enjoy a few more videos 😀👍🏻

This is insane what you're able to achieve through program priority/auto. I've been trying to understand time-lapses as a camera rookie and this just simplified the process so much for me. Thanks to the developers for innovating camera technology and thank you for finding this technique and sharing it with us!

@LondonViewpoints

2 жыл бұрын

It’s not perfect as the P mode at least on Nikon Z requires a fair bit of deflickering but it keeps the shutters slow for long and works great if you leave the camera working remotely so there’s always compromises but this is a revolutionary technique imho

@joshmoxey.

2 жыл бұрын

@@LondonViewpoints there's never perfection with technological automation, but I'll take a bit of fixes in post over hours of manual work! Agreed, it's massive. I'm testing this out as we speak, wish me luck! 🙏🏻

Thank you, Michael. I just found this video. I will try this method today!

I did use this technique on my Sony A7RII since 2015. It was the first camera to have AutoIsoMinSS setting. I use mainly aperture priority since I often use manual lenses and don't like the "vignette-flickering" that different aperture can give you when switched during the shot. From my extensive tests the Nikon Z6/7 do very well with the internal intervalometer, exposing even for the milkyway correctly. External source gives bad milkyway results as iso doesnt ramp up high enough, effectively underexposing. The Sony A7r2 and 3 are exactly oposite, very well with external interval and underexposing with internal intervalometer, which makes them more interesting for timelapse as they can run well on motion-control rigs too. I'm talking about very dark skies only. Cityscapes or moonlit nights are totaly fine as they are still pretty bright even at night.

@LondonViewpoints

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks a lot for sharing this, well as I mentioned I literally only discovered it myself end of 2018 on the Z6, but I rarely ever go shoot day to Milky Way , mostly just city skyline holy grails. What I found is that the best results where vignette changes aren’t visible are only on native Z lenses where the profile gets applied in body into the raw files. With F mount lenses it doesn’t work that well indeed, but still not so bad. And if I’m ever afraid an external light might ruin the exposure smoothing ramping, than I just ramp manually via qdslr dashboard on an android in setting change only mode, no preview sent to app, only judging the preview on the camera lcd to minimise dark time and gap between intervals and that way seems to be my produce my best results.

@TimestormFilms

4 жыл бұрын

@@LondonViewpoints yes indeed, with the native z-mount lenses it works very well. Since Sony intriduced the minIsoMaxSS feature in the A7r2 that was my main purchase decision to go with sony. I was very glad to see that Nikon also implemented it. Check out my Nox Atacama series. All shot on A7r2 aperture priority... Earlies examples you can find in my 2015 "Norway 8K"

@LondonViewpoints

4 жыл бұрын

Timestorm Films funny enough before going all Nikon I had the A7R2 and later A7III and this was indeed a revolutionary feature. One reason I now love the Z6 is ability to make nobody 4k timelapses in fx or dx mode for when I do gigs that have 24 or 48h turnaround and don’t all need to be shot in raw, literally a money making feature not many other cameras do while still having all the auto iso min ss option. I’ll check out your films as I’ve heard about you of course, but for some reason I wasn’t subscribed until now on KZread 🤷🏼‍♂️

@timelapsebylkunl72

4 жыл бұрын

I have done some Milkyway timelapse with Sony A7RIII/A7III camera. I can confirm as Martin write that Sony camera give a better exposure result with external intervalometer and internal intervalometer mostly give a under exposure result. I hope Sony will give a 1/3 stop increment MinSS as Nikon camera. Now Sony camera only give 1 stop increment for Iso Auto Min shutter speed.

@edwarddebruyn8717

3 жыл бұрын

Hello, discovered also this possibility. Was happy that I’m not alone using the P-mode. Came rather accidentally across this KZread channel, nice channel and thank you for sharing this info. So I'm not alone But I’ve a question (Sony user) for some of you who used this mode on Sony in order to achieve a good exposure for time-lapses ending in real dark sky’s. Was mentioned that the internal intervalometer ends in underexposed milky way images. So what interval do you use since in P mode you will end with maybe 30sec exposures. So the interval will be 30sec or more for the whole time-lapse ? Do you use a variable ND filter like the NISI or other filter during the daytime period? How to prevent shake when removing a ND filter ? Any idea if the a6300 and a6400 have the same problem ? Thank you for sharing this !!

Thanks Michael, I will definitely try this!

came from Matt's email as well, will have to try this out on my Sony mirrorless cameras.

Super interesting mate, definitely need to try this on the Canons. Would you consider writing this as a blog post?

So awesome that this is included on sony cameras! Going to give it a shot this morning

@LondonViewpoints

4 жыл бұрын

Best to check it first like I did at home somewhere starting from a bright light source and moving slowly into a very dark spot and seeing how the settings behave, if it works than I’d test it with a timelapse 👍🏻

Thanks man! It feels like having a brand new camera!

@LondonViewpoints

4 жыл бұрын

You’re welcome, sometimes an u discovered feature can indeed revive the whole love for a camera you already have 👍🏻

Wow, I'm not alone! I've been doing this since a few years... and it works really well.

@LondonViewpoints

4 жыл бұрын

Oh cool, yet seems everyone was keeping this method a secret when I researched it😉

@johns.earljr.3631

3 жыл бұрын

What camera are you using? My Nikon D850 and Canon 5D SR can't seem to get both night to day or, day to night transition correct.

Awesome! Please post the second part. :)

I am going to try the Program mode on my Z6 for sure. Thank you very much for sharing Michael.

@hutchy5150

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks Michael. The time lapse is going well. My biz partner Shane is going to email or call your shortly regarding some specific questions.

Gorgeous

@LondonViewpoints

Ай бұрын

Thanks

I,m seriously gonna give this a try

@LondonViewpoints

Ай бұрын

Good luck, results vary depending on camera systems and models

What a great video! Have you tried this method with any cameras apart from the Z6? I use a D750 but have always manually ramped exposure because I thought trying other ways would introduce too much flicker?

Hi Michael, cant wait to try this.....shame there was no sunset tonight.....might get it ready for sunrise tomorrow instead.

I’m gonna give this a try this week on my 5D II. Really nice stuff and thanks to Mr Vandeputte for sharing!

@malcolmhare3741

4 жыл бұрын

I have the 5d mk2. did you have any luck with the settings?

@christianskarli5246

4 жыл бұрын

I have 6D mk I with the same question

@JaredRibic

4 жыл бұрын

I want to try it with my 5D Mk2 as well.

Really interesting approach, I'm definitely going to try this on the Sony, especially now that the a7III has integrated intervalometer. I have one question though, is there a way to set an upper limit to the aperture? like f11 for example? I don't want to go too high, mostly because of sensor dust on mirrorless but also because of sharpness fall off.

Great stuff. I have possibly read something about using P mode but was a long time ago, so cant be sure. Definitely need to give this a try tho.

Thank you! One of most sensible insights around here. will try on my z6 and d850. Cheers!

@LondonViewpoints

3 жыл бұрын

You’re welcome, I didn’t have that much luck with P mode on my D850, it behaved a bit oddly, but on Z6 it works a great👍🏻

@DerekGalon

3 жыл бұрын

@@LondonViewpoints I just quickly tried to test it. i must be doing something wrong, and i hope you can point me to solution. I set my z6 to P mode, set f16 (and mode turns to P*), then turn auto iso (max 250). Then, when it gets darker on front of camera - f goes down first (to 2.8) - then ISO GOES UP. and only when iso is max, shutter gets slower. i don't put any ND as i just want to see how it should function. So, i start with 1/40s but it is the last thing that moves. first F, then ISO, and only then shutter. I probably make such a basic mistake that I can't see it. puzzles me, though. Thanks and sorry.

@LondonViewpoints

3 жыл бұрын

@@DerekGalon is that on Z6 ? If in a bright to dark situation, it should shutter first to max length (have you set your auto iso max shutter length before iso kicks in?) then F stop down to wide open and only last iso, but if you set max iso ah’s it needs more, you have to also make sure you set interval priority to your max shutter and still than it might skip frames so I would leave iso max to max like 51200 or whatever, it probably won’t reach it

@DerekGalon

3 жыл бұрын

yes of course Z6. but - as I thought - i made a basic mistake, and you nailed it. I left shutter speed on auto in auto iso settings. Getting old, I think. After your comment i checked it, and now it is all food. Thanks for your time and help! Will test it tonight for real.

@DerekGalon

3 жыл бұрын

@@LondonViewpoints Well, While i need to practice a bit more, it works perfectly. So, again many thinks for your great post and your help! Maybe I can repay you by inviting you to see my short video of anniversary of hurricane maria we had 3 years ago on our little island Dominica. It has GPS tracked drone time lapse, among other interesting footage. Second clip on my channel. Cheers!

thanks! please upload the part 2!! :D :D :D

Thank you.

Excellent tutorial! Thank you! I’ll definitely give it a try. Did you use the Z6? That’s what I’ll be using.

@terry2855

5 жыл бұрын

Michael LondonViewpoints which Variable ND filter do you recommend? Tried the P setting on my Z6 last night, I can’t believe how well it worked. I learn something everyday. I’m very thankful that I found your channel, you’re a wealth of knowledge. Thanks for sharing.

how has no one tried this til now!? nice work and THANK YOU for sharing I will give this a try asap

@LondonViewpoints

4 жыл бұрын

You’re welcome☺️yeah that was something I couldn’t understand too, i was googling this and nothing was coming up so I guess i pioneered this method ? 🤷🏼‍♂️ it’s not bulletproof, I’d only use it at times I won’t be by the camera, but still, it works

@TimestormFilms

4 жыл бұрын

@@LondonViewpoints you might be the first one to make an article or youtube video about it. But let me tell you that you are still 4 years late to the party. Been using it since 2015...

@LondonViewpoints

4 жыл бұрын

Timestorm Films oh wow, if I can remotely even compare my timelapse discovery to you also knowing about it with all your timelapse experience than I’m quite proud of myself ☺️ But it’s true I’ve researched and couldn’t find it anything in this method so it felt like I’ve discovered it😀

@TimestormFilms

4 жыл бұрын

@@LondonViewpoints yea fair enough haha. Some of us hardcore timelapsers have shared the details of this a couple times in some facebook groups but never bothered to make a full video/tutorial. Also its always a discovery process as it highly depends on the cameras used. From own testing only the Sony A7*II+ and Nikon Z6/7 can do that well into very dark skies. Most DSLR's and normal cams only go well into cityscape lighting levels...

@LondonViewpoints

4 жыл бұрын

Timestorm Films that’s good to know, so it’s a rather new discovery anyway, and yes, I’ve had some feedback where some people said it’s not working in that specific order on their cameras nor they have exposure smoothing in timelapse which does help in this mode too

Hi Michael, can you use this with the internal interval timer shooting on the Z 6, or do you need an external intervalometer, so as to make any other adjustments?

@LondonViewpoints

3 жыл бұрын

Hi Neville, you can and I do it often but without changing vari Nd as the screen is always out and you wouldn’t know when to change nd so it’s not when a photo is taken

Brilliant video... Maybe update with the new functions in Z6II/ Z7II ?

@LondonViewpoints

Жыл бұрын

I did do a Z6II timelapse review, so it’s there but at this moment I’m actually working on a Z9 timelapse review 😀

Hi! just found you r channel. Very interesting tutorial Right now we have even more interesting mode in Canon cameras which is Fv. I use it a lot and it works even better than P mode. Great work!

@LondonViewpoints

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks, I’ve never heard of Fv, but that’s because I’m only Nikon, what does it do, just curious out of general knowledge

Thank you for share this method! I tried it yesterday with my Lumix GX-85 + LRTimelapse, and it worked well, however, it was a cloudy day with moments of rain and then patches of sun, sometimes dark sky with a hole in the middle that lights the mountains, something typical here in Colombia, S.A. Because of that, I had a lot flickering because the light changes from dark to bright and then from bright to dark and so on... Do you have any advice on how to set the Metering mode or the brightness measurement mode in those cases? for example, is it better to set it on "whole screen" or in a spot, or in the "center"? You have a new suscriber, and thank you for making these videos!

@Peter-kq1ju

3 жыл бұрын

I guess that's why manual mode is more popular.

Thanks for sharing, super helpful. Quick question: In my Z6 I know the shutter and ISO settings can be set in the ISO settings but you mention that the F-stop can be set aswell and I'm wondering were this can be done or does the camera simply adjust it automatically in P-mode? TIA

@LondonViewpoints

4 жыл бұрын

You’re welcome and yes, in P mode you first set the start of where P mode will start by just dialling it in, and then it’ll change in the direction of light 👍🏻

@koenpijpersphotography

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you for this, what a lifehack now I can just do day to night Timelapses and vice versa. Amazing tutorial for me and my Z6.

really cool info! im going to try this tonite, but i have noticed while i was prepping my camera (a7iii) for the shoot...while in Pmode, when i adjust my aperture to the desired setting, the camera switches to the "flexible Mode" (i know this because the P on the monitor has * next to it), and while in flexible mode, the AutoISOminSS (8sec) now defaults to the shoot interval (10sec) which i set in camera. so it seems, that by initiating "flexiblePmode" the minSS is overridden and defaults to the shoot interval i have set? I realized this by testing out the settings in the same way you showed us with the indoor light. this will be something i continue to experiment with, so i may try Amode and Pmode to see what setting works best with the a7iii. is there a particular reason you don't use Amode? my first thought is that this mode would create a consistent DoF throughout the time-lapse. thanks again for the info, this has been very thought provoking and helpful.

@LondonViewpoints

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks, glad it inspired you to try this method, however as you can guess by now seems like various different camera brands and models all behave differently but it’s worth exploring further 👍🏻

What make of variable nd filter did you use ? I am right in thinking you can't use the Samyang 14 or 25 mm lens as they're both manual lenses, it has to be an automatic lens ? Will start tonight with the Canon 6D, might start with the timelapse with a Lee little stopper, but that may be too dark. Would a circular polariser give about 1 stop of light reduction ? Looking forward to giving this a go, thanks for the video, excellent work. j

@bererunner

5 жыл бұрын

Gutted, I have 2 Canon bodies and neither will allow me to stay in P shift mode. I can alter the aperture from that selected by the camera, but that value selected by me only lasts for 6 seconds then it reverts back to the setting selected by the camera. Apparently some canon bodies will move to Programme shift mode on a semi permanent basis allowing the camera to ramp aperture exposure and iso, but the the 6D and 80D aren’t among them.

Great Tutorial! I’m fairly new to photography (4 Years Experience) and I actually stumbled across this when I purchased a device called Arsenal, (you may have heard of it) and I was playing around with the arsenal to do a timelaps and the arsenal app requires the camera (Z6 in my case) to be set in “P Mode” in order for the arsenal device and app to do a timlapse. Since I was pretty much inexperienced I never knew that this was a feature that wasn’t known. This video has definitely inspired me to create some time lapses. Subscribed and definitely following, thanks you for your contribution to the photography world.

@LondonViewpoints

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks a lot for this review of my tutorial and I’m so glad you found it useful. Yes I’ve heard of the Arsenal but I’ve not thought of much use of it in my current already happy amount of gear and what I can create with it, it just didn’t do anything i can’t do already hence never really put much thought into buying the Arsenal. Enjoy trying P mode in timelapse 👍🏻

@airborne4vr1

3 жыл бұрын

@@LondonViewpoints You made a great decision, Arsenal is useless. I did benefit from an extra usb-c cable though.

@LondonViewpoints

3 жыл бұрын

@@airborne4vr1 haha I’m sure you can get cheaper usb-c cables out there 😜

Cool

Holy shit so smooth

@LondonViewpoints

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks ☺️

And thank you for sharing the idea for using this filter, is indeed the best option I think since it has this little handle.

@LondonViewpoints

3 жыл бұрын

It’s the best vari-nd I’ve tried, but in the last two years there have been a few new ones released from different brands I’ve not tried yet but would love to try, some 2-8 stop, if they don’t have the X effect I’d use that

@edwarddebruyn8717

3 жыл бұрын

@@LondonViewpoints Thank you for your quick reply !!! From what I encountered on the net, they don't have that problem but it's only 2-5 stop (or 5-10) and the NISI is not in the review What about the NISI ? PolarPro is more expensive See: www.geraldundone.com/variable-nd-filters-compared-is-polarpros-pmvnd-the-best/ But looks like the NISI is easy to use with the extra handle for time-lapses Any idea for my day to milky way setup ? See the answer + question to Timestorm Films lower

@edwarddebruyn8717

3 жыл бұрын

Don't know about this, 1,5 to 10ND: www.kickstarter.com/projects/revoring/revoring-a-variable-step-ring-for-your-camera-lens-filters?

@LondonViewpoints

3 жыл бұрын

edward de bruyn isn’t this only a filter holder/mount solution for not buying various step up/down rings?

@edwarddebruyn8717

3 жыл бұрын

London Viewpoints actually seems they have both, the filter holder and the VND, but don’t know about the filters, if they are okey

Came here from Matthew Vandeputtes email post. Will try that on my Canon and Fuji.

Wow, this is absolutely awesome! 🤩Sending big like👍🏻Subscribed ⭐

@LondonViewpoints

Жыл бұрын

Thanks a lot, have a great day

Is this technique only compatible when using the Hyperfocal distance for the widest aperture ? If your focus point is done at the hyperfocal distance let say 5 meter for f2.8, when the aperture will start going up for a night to day timelapse, you'll never loose focus on inifity. That's my understanding on how to deal with DoF which will change during the process.

@LondonViewpoints

3 жыл бұрын

Yes as I predominantly shoot skylines hence focus is at infinity at most times then it doesn’t really change for me, but before starting the timelapse I check the focus at wide and closed aperture to make sure at both it’s in focus 👍🏻

Thanks for the great video! I have a couple of questions please. 1. Can I program the P mode so that ISO value changes first before shutter speed and/or ISO? 2. If you have a camera such as Sony A7S3, won't it be better to change the ISO value as it performs great at low light? Thank you.

@LondonViewpoints

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks , so 1. Different manufactures set eye order different in P mode from the feedback that I’m getting from non-Nikon subscribers, and even on my Nikon I can’t choose the order, it is what it is, but it works for me. 2. Any camera still introduces noise when increasing iso, A7S3 less so but still, always get rid of iso first (sunrise or leave for last in sunset ) and prioritise ramping other settings

@EricDad

3 жыл бұрын

@@LondonViewpoints Thanks so much for your insight!

I'm not sure if this will work without using LRTL. I have tried using AP on a Canon DSLR and did post in LR and ended up with a lot of flicker. I thought the best way to avoid flicker was to keep my shutter speed doubled what my FPS rendering would processed at. Still experimenting ,but this is still a very interesting video. Thanks for the post.

So you're using a 'variable' ND? Which glass do you find best for the job?

@LondonViewpoints

4 жыл бұрын

I use a few vari ND’s some work better with certain lenses some don’t, I like my Nisi Vari Nd 1.5-5 for most wide angles but on telephoto 500mm the rear Vizulex ND throttle works better 👍🏻

good method,thanks! Q:saw the night to day sample,the graph in LRT the ISO have 110,surprise! I thought the ISO should be 100,125,160,200....but 110,it really because of the AUTO ISO option did,am I right? If I adjust it manually, It dosen't,right?

@hongqi9732

4 жыл бұрын

@@LondonViewpoints thanks lots,enjoy your video!

Did you ever post part 2? Searched your channel and didn’t see it.

Hi Michael, thanks for the vid! I have one question, that I’m not able to find on my Sony camera. Are you setting a max shutter speed or minimum SS? I have a minimum but max option.

@virtualjeff99

4 жыл бұрын

In the demo where you pointed it at the light then went to dark. How were you able to set a max shutter speed to 6seconds? That’s what I’m having trouble finding on the Sony. What is that called on the z6?

@virtualjeff99

4 жыл бұрын

@@LondonViewpoints Yes, I found that. So I should select I 4 or 8 seconds. Sorry, I must be confused, bc I thought in your video you selected a max shutter speed as well of 6 seconds. I will try setting the min ss to 8seconds for auto ISO in P mode. Thanks!

@virtualjeff99

4 жыл бұрын

Michael LondonViewpoints awesome, I’ll try it out!

Great one...👍

@LondonViewpoints

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks ☺️

@jmuij1454

3 жыл бұрын

Great tutorial, but what about whitebalance?

@LondonViewpoints

3 жыл бұрын

@@jmuij1454 it ramps it too if you want and only shooting a timelapse movie, but if you shout raw I ramp it in post in LRT

tHanKs!!!!!!!!

@LondonViewpoints

Жыл бұрын

You’re welcome

Very interesting, however I cannot set a predetermined aperture in P mode. As soon as I switch to P mode the camera automatically chooses the aperture for me so i have had to start the timelapse at this aperture. Any thoughts on this? Using a canon 6d mark 2. Thanks

@LondonViewpoints

4 жыл бұрын

It seems to work on some cameras and not available on others🤷🏼‍♂️try scrolling both wheels as in different modes maybe they get reassigned what they operate? Also when I put it to P I still have to push it to f22 for example when I’m starting at daytime where it first wants to do it at f4 and the other way round for sunrise

I may be missing something (nikon z6), if I put mine in P mode then i got no control on aperture or shutter speed, only thing I can change is the ISO. so I am limiting my highest auto iso to 1600 for the shutter speed or aperture to alter, am i on the right path? mainly do astrophotography but wanted to do a twilight/darkness timelapse

@RichardNoyes

3 жыл бұрын

Paul, I’m having the same issues, did you ever figure out how to set on your Z6? I have Z7 but settings should be the same.

Loved the video. Gave me much food for thought. BUT. Using the vari ND makes in unautomatic.

@LondonViewpoints

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks and yes, the vari nd is indeed making it unautomatic but that’s only because I want long exposures for most of the timelapse, if And when I didn’t care about it, high up on a skyscraper with not much birds, people or cars to flicker in the foreground, I don’t put the nd on and leave it often in fully automatic mode 👍🏻

Thanks for sharing. i have tried but having a bit problem with ISO ramp up for bright to Dark situation. The setting :Max ISO 3200, 8'"max SS, F22 at start >>> the SS and F stop changed as it should and stop at 8" and F4, but the ISO start from 100 and stop at only 1250! while it was still very dark. Another try with max SS 13",from F22>>>>this time the ISO stop at 1000. Did i miss something? i use F-lense with adapter, does it cause this problem ?

@piakphotography

3 жыл бұрын

Camera is Z6 + 16-35 F-Lense

@LondonViewpoints

3 жыл бұрын

Guess it depends what you were exposing for, or what your metering is set to? I use wide matrix but I guess if you had it on protect highlights it would not expose too bright, don’t know, maybe share more settings

Shooting what you’ve shared is easy. Have you used this on a true holy grail with the Milkyway? I’d be curious how the program mode handles teue blackness with only stars lighting up.

@LondonViewpoints

Жыл бұрын

I’ve not tested it all the way to Milky Way but for the effort one has to put into being somewhere all night it’s probably best to shoot it manually changing settings rather than letting it to chance or exposure smoothing

Thanks for this video! I don't understand how you set the "exposure zero" which I understand is the exposure the P Mode tries to reach. Do you set the correct exposure in manual mode and then switch to P mode?

@LondonViewpoints

3 жыл бұрын

P mode is automatic, so by setting exposure to zero I mean setting "exposure compensation" to zero, and then jsut changing the aperture setting by scrolling the dial

@jacquesallet7666

3 жыл бұрын

@@LondonViewpoints oh thanks I misunderstood! Juste one thing, how do you keep a constant interval as the shutter speed changes during the time lapse. If I set a 4s interval and 3s max shutter speed at the beginning of the time lapse during the day it will result in +-4s interval but at night when the shutter speed is 3s the actual inverval between 2 shots will be only 1 second

@LondonViewpoints

3 жыл бұрын

@@jacquesallet7666 the interval is when the shot starts being fired, only that needs to be constant, and it does start firing every 4s, only your gap between photos decreases at night

@jacquesallet7666

3 жыл бұрын

Oh I thought it was the gap between the shots that had to be constant. Tank you very much for answering ! (And so quickly)

Intriguing... I’m going to try this. Even if a lot of what you say is playing with my head and my OCD. f/22 ?? Doesn’t that mean big flicker ? Changing aperture throughout ? What does that do to focus ?? I’m not sure I can take it !!! I cannot seem to locate the next video on Tower Bridge - is it just me ??

@matt.pereira

4 жыл бұрын

@@LondonViewpoints Well, i literally just tried one out of the bedroom window - not the best subject matter, but an easy way to give it a go - will let you know of the result !

I just found out this method this year. I hope i see this clip before that. I use Sony A7III/A7RIII. Sony camera can also do this with P* mode but If i start from Night to Day i have put shine some flashlight on to lens to able to put camera to P* while in low light situation.

@LondonViewpoints

4 жыл бұрын

So from night to day I first crank iso to 51200 then push my aperture dial (in p mode) to f22, and when I reset iso to start from 100 it sets f where it needs to be and then works in the right order, hope that helps

@timelapsebylkunl72

4 жыл бұрын

@@LondonViewpoints Thank you very much. I just try it on A7RIII. It's work! Just one question can you control maximum F number when sunrise. My Sony always select maximum F number to F22 when sunrise If i shoot Night to Day.

What about loosing your depth of field as the aperture changes from F16 to F1.8? That seems like it would be a mess if your timelapse has some foreground in it.

@LondonViewpoints

3 жыл бұрын

I have shot with a camera on the beach without a tripod, literally on the beach and yes of course the dof change than was noticeable but as I would usually shoot something with a foreground only wide, like 14mm f4 , there isn’t that much dof if you set to infinity as also I usually are more focused on the background than the foreground than dof is very wide and minimises the change, if you were to focus on the item in the foreground than yes it wouldn’t be ideal

I like what you did here and the end result of how the camera functions change. However, I don't understand how you actually programmed the camera. I have a Canon R6 and trying to do this but can't figure it out.

@LondonViewpoints

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks a lot, I can’t guarantee it works on every camera, some people here in the comments confirmed their models working the same some said others don’t , so maybe R6 just is one of them 🤷🏼‍♂️

@VictorWoo

2 жыл бұрын

@@LondonViewpoints I've tested on Canon EOS R5, but sadly the P mode doesn't work as the video, too 😵

Hey the method you tell I always theoretically wanted to do this, but the camera I have (Sony A7C), somehow treats Auto ISO Min SS very differently , and i can never achieve this method very aperture starts to open when Max ISO and min SS are reached. can you provide any help?

@LondonViewpoints

24 күн бұрын

Yes Sony’s work but only in Aperture priority mode , don’t know if they do it right in P mode hence it’s just one of the reasons I shoot nikon

I use qdslrdashboard. That's fairly automatic also. LRTimelapse is an integral part built into this app.

@LondonViewpoints

3 жыл бұрын

Yes but for unknown to me reason QDSLr rampinng via app failed me a few too many times to rely on it, as well as sending the even small jpeg to the phone via WiFi adds a good few seconds to the dark time and I don’t like that, I like my gaps as small as possible 😜

@aacassens

3 жыл бұрын

@@LondonViewpoints I'm 81 years old so I have to watch my "dark " time also. I don't even buy green bananas . I'll try your PROGRAM method with my D750.😷

Interesting suggestion. But in the end you still used an ND filter manually adjusting the image settings. So it was not fully automated. BTW, I've not seen a good video explaining how to set the holy grail curves in LRTimelapse. But this is a good suggestion.

@LondonViewpoints

Жыл бұрын

Yes I did use a variable ND manually with this auto technique because aperture+auto iso + shutter isn’t covering enough stops to make a smooth transition from day to night all while keeping a long exposure in daytime. Also with exposure smooth on my line in LRT is pretty smooth as it is so the curve line you’re referring to is only applicable when one shoots in manual and changes settings themselves and then proceeds with the holy grail workflow

I love Holy Grail Timelapes! I tried your way. I found out that using the Gopro 11 with a ND 16 or light pollution filter on nightlapse mode work well for me. However, It is done with AI.

@LondonViewpoints

8 ай бұрын

Thanks, yeah but without changing aperture on a GoPro when it gets to daytime it goes to high shutter speeds and I don’t like that stobe effect 🤷🏼‍♂️

This was really interesting. I’ve been using LRTimelapse on and off since about 2013, and I don’t remember hearing anyone talk about P mode before. I just checked my camera (Sony a77) and couldn't find any really useful looking menu settings for it. I'll have to go away and (re-)read the manual! By the way, you think pigeons are bad? Try moving to the coast and live with seagulls for a while, haha! A SINGLE bird can cause you to have to wash your entire car... :(

@LondonViewpoints

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks, on come cameras it may work or others it may not, just saying from all the feedback I received about it in the last 12months since the video went live, crucial is the ability to do auto iso with your chosen length of min shutter and then checking if P mode actually works in the correct order. Yes I hate any birds in timelapse but can understand your frustrations too😂

@macronencer

4 жыл бұрын

@@LondonViewpoints Cheers for the reply! I've since checked my manual, and my Sony won't do what's required, sadly :( Mind you, it won't work with qDSLRDashboard either, I don't think, so I was thinking of getting a better camera for time lapse in any case, at some point. Until then, I'll be shivering on the hillsides making manual adjustments! Or at least, I will once lockdown is over...

@LondonViewpoints

4 жыл бұрын

macronencer you’re most welcome, if I can recommend one than it would be the Z6, I got two and for timelapse they are amazing👍🏻can’t wait to be back out shooting some holy grails again

@macronencer

4 жыл бұрын

@@LondonViewpoints Thank you! I'll look into the Z6, definitely.

@macronencer

4 жыл бұрын

@@LondonViewpoints Just came back quickly to let you know that I got the Z6. Just getting used to it as I've never had a Nikon before, but so far I'm impressed! Definitely it knocks spots off my old crop sensor Sony as far as low light noise is concerned. What noise there is at, say, ISO3600, is far less harsh and looks more like film grain. I can't wait to try a dark sky shot or two with this thing. Thanks for recommending!

I don’t get it - that’s all well And good but how do I change my intervalometer as the time lapse is running ? As my shutter speed lengthens I need to lengthen my intervalometer- how can I do this in magic lantern during the time lapse ?

@LondonViewpoints

8 ай бұрын

Ideally you don’t change the interval during timelapse, but if you really want to there are external intervalometers that do allow you to ramp interval, but I have no clue if magic lantern allows this or not

OMG. This is getting tried first chance I get. I have a Sony A7iii and have been struggling with my time lapse and either have the end results getting blown out or under exposed. I am not sure the Camera manufacturer would have this application was possible. Many thanks. P

@LondonViewpoints

2 жыл бұрын

Try it 👍🏻not sure how or if it would work on Sony but if you can post your findings here

@paddymorrison

2 жыл бұрын

@@LondonViewpoints thanks. Had a go this morning but think I need to have a play around with different lenses. I used a 28-70mm Sony lens (4-5.6), using the P program, when I tried to get the shutter speed down as low( only went to 1/2 sec), the aperture ramped all the way up to F36,. I ran it for around 250 shots and although the ISO( set to Auto) did fluctuate a little, other to variables stayed prettier constant. P

@LondonViewpoints

2 жыл бұрын

@@paddymorrison hmm I recon you try the bright lamp into dark room home transition first and see how the settings are changing in a control environment, as if your interval was longer it should’ve started at least from a long shutter but if you didn’t put any ND’s on, that’s why at f36 it only did get to 1/2s shutter in daytime

@paddymorrison

2 жыл бұрын

@@LondonViewpoints will do , I’ll let you know how it goes. P

I didnt understand 😣 I have the z6, but my P Mode works different. The auto iso go waaay up when i point to something dark. How can i set the P Mode? I cant understand that

@brunoscali

4 жыл бұрын

I mean, i do know that on P Mode you can adjust the exposure and the f. But as soon i turn on the auto iso, all the values go to hell 😂 This P mode really make me nervous xd

@LondonViewpoints

4 жыл бұрын

So when in P mode I set the aperture to f16 first by scrolling the one dial that works , in manual iso, so that shutter adjusts, and then when I set iso to auto with my length of desired shutter apertute switches to where it needs to be👍🏻

interesting, but if you still have to change your ND Filter manually, it seems to be almost as much effort as to change the iso manually.

@LondonViewpoints

4 жыл бұрын

This is the thing that you don’t have to, this mode is really for when you won’t be by the camera to do any changes, the vari-ND I added solely because I was there and it will be better with extra 1.5-5 stops ND movement for when the day happens, but you could just set it at full 5ND at night and you’d basically be just starting off a much higher iso, rather then me at only 1.5nd

I have NEVER used P mode 😂👌🏼 this is indeed game changing! I’ll check if my D610 does it the right way. Also, pigeons are shit 😂

Quick and dirty test on a GH5 tonight looks promising

I am the 999 Sub just one more!

@barnestyson

4 жыл бұрын

@@LondonViewpoints well deserved!

I'm about to try a timelapse sunrise tomorrow morning using my Sony a1 and the program auto mode... wish me luck. I tried once using aperture priority and massively overexposed everything using multi metering mode. I'm thinking I can do large spot metering instead, although I see there's a "highlight" metering mode. I'm feeling I should play it mostly safe and meter with the spot just over the horizon. This might be my last opportunity to get this sunrise at this spot, so... if anyone has a last minute opinion on why I might want to use highlight metering instead, please let me know :) Also, I just realized that Auto ISO Min SS refers to the slowest shutter speed, not the smallest exposure time. It confused me because in the video, I think the term "max shutter speed" was used. Okay, so I'm doing 5 second intervals with a min SS of 4 seconds. I'd have preferred 2.5 or 3, but it only lets me choose 2 and 4, and I figure, motion blur doesn't really matter much once the sun appears.

@LondonViewpoints

3 жыл бұрын

I’d test it at home first if I was you using that method I showed, by pointing slowly from a dark area to a lamp or something and seeing how the settings change. Also I’d recommend highlight metering for sun direction and on the subject of auto iso, yes it’s confusing , I say max shutter but it settings it’s min ss, it’s a naming confusion but I see you understand it anyway 👍🏻good luck

@sneakyghostfilms

3 жыл бұрын

@@LondonViewpoints Well, too late, I tried it already.. used large spot on the horizon and ...I think I got good exposure. Almost messed it up again because I realized at the last minute that exposure compensation was up a bit... was trying to my composition in the foreground better and almost forgot to reset it. Anyway, I think I started the sunrise late enough where it wasn't going to go slower than the 2-4 seconds I was using for my SS limit. It ended up pinning the ISO at 125 the whole time and adjusted the aperture gradually from F11 to F18 when I ended it, and the shutter speed was mostly at 1/8 ...which I think is not really going to be enough to hide the birds that visited but, I'm not sure what I could have done about that. I also am not sure, but...I saw the aperture looking pinned around f/4 and got worried that it would leave it there and just adjust the shutter speed. I was doing tests in the field with my iPhone light against the screen, trying to make it shrink the aperture, and it wasn't. I ended up adjusting the aperture to f/11 manually and then restarted the timelapse... and it seemed to use that instead as its starting aperture, increasing shutter speed but slowly restricting aperture. I'm wondering if it really takes into account what aperture you had to start or if I'm misunderstanding something... but it really makes me want to just use aperture priority next time. I see the Arsenal device actually lets you have direct control over each of the settings and you can choose the min/max for reach and what it uses when. I thought Arsenal looked gimmicky, but maybe that is a lot more straightforward.

@LondonViewpoints

3 жыл бұрын

@@sneakyghostfilms I alway push P mode aperture to max F stop and when you trigger auto iso it jumps to open wide (in a night to day situation) and then automatically goes to around f11 or 13 when needed, but never all the way to f16 or more for some reason, works fine in a day to night but night to day never closes aperture all the way. Instead of Arsenal you can just ramp manually with qdslr dashboard app via android, and it can also ramp automatically too buy I didn’t have great luck with that

@sneakyghostfilms

3 жыл бұрын

@@LondonViewpoints What exactly does "push P mode aperture" mean? So it wasn't my imagination and the starting value does affect its values after it takes over?

@sneakyghostfilms

3 жыл бұрын

@@LondonViewpoints By the way, here's the result of my second attempt at a timelapse. I think it turned out a lot better than I was expecting, so that's a good sign. It definitely doesn't look as smooth as yours tho: kzread.info/dash/bejne/iKGDpLaLd6ypaag.html

IMHO, the holy grail of timelapsing is probably only achieved if a device would be created that would handle the full light change of about 10 stops using only variable ND. That is, if you accept that you can still accommodate extra 3-4 stops by shooting in raw. Any of the other trade-offs (shutter/aperture/ISO) will affect the image in some unintended way: shutter of course being the motion blur; aperture being the DoF; and ISO the level of noise. Sony has introduced such an Auto ND feature on their FS5, FS7, FX6 and FX9 digital cinema cameras, but they are actually quite useless as full-fledged timelapse cameras as they are limited in terms of shutter speed.

@LondonViewpoints

2 жыл бұрын

If they are ramped correctly and noise levels are low, it’s close to indistinguishable while also a variable nd can introduce vignetting and colour shifting that worse to correct in post than F, shutter or iso. Regarding shutter specifically no one ever complained that shutter was getting longer over time, what I don’t like is if and when it goes faster than say half a second then it’s a noticeable flickering difference, but the other way from say half a a second to 20s on a 30s interval I recon isn’t an issue

I do Holygrail time-lapse the easy way using the nightmare mode on the gopro 11 black. It has AI in it that do all the work for you.

@LondonViewpoints

10 ай бұрын

Sure, but in daytime you cannot get smooth long exposure on a gopro when doing holy grail

@StringrPress

10 ай бұрын

Sure you can. Just add an ND16 to your gopro 11 black while you use the gopro's night mode. You will get motion blur and long exposure during the daytime that gradually change exposure as the light conditions change in the environment. Perfect right out the camera. However you can shoot and Log and have even better results in post.

The day - to night time lapse is not automatic. It requires changing the ND. Also, I have not found any variable ND that does not degrade the image. As far as birds are concerned, if you live in a big city, helicopters are a major distraction.

@LondonViewpoints

4 жыл бұрын

You don’t need an nd from night to day, you’ll just end up with fast shutter even at f22 if you don’t, I add it as the non-automatic part that improves it further but isn’t necessary and the proces can be fully automatic

@4CardsMan

4 жыл бұрын

@@LondonViewpoints Thanks for clarifying that.

Music min 19:00? Ths

@LondonViewpoints

3 жыл бұрын

Did you enjoy the video ?

@ruicapitao_

3 жыл бұрын

@@LondonViewpoints yes i saw the video and i liked it.

Well, I tried this in every way I know how on my Canon 5D SR and Nikon D850 with failure on all counts. If I got good results during light hours, the change into night caused black photos. From dark to light, the dark looked good but daylight pics were blown out with light. The cameras can't get the Holy Grail in program mode. If someone figures this out I'd like to hear about it.

@LondonViewpoints

3 жыл бұрын

Sorry to hear that, it’s definitely not limited to Z6, many in the comments here have confirmed positive results with their cameras too, just maybe not with 5D SR🤷🏼‍♂️

So the whole time your depth of field is changing. Hmm. Not ideal really.

@LondonViewpoints

Жыл бұрын

At infinity focus, without having to much too close to my foreground, it’s unnoticeable, but I guess it’ll depend if the composition

Aaaand you camera react to the light... no matter if you want it or not... little cloud in front of the sun? your camera will NOT ignore it and ajust. Of course you can make timelapses with it... but its not the way how you are in control about it. If you want to be sure its perfect... its only do it yourself.

@LondonViewpoints

4 жыл бұрын

Totally agree it’s not perfect and also not my primate way to shoot holy grail, but with exposure smoothing on (some cameras have it like Nikon for example ) and when leaving a camera in a hotel window and going out, this is the best way for a smooth automatic holy grail. Otherwise for perfection I prefer to ramp manually via qdslrdashboard on an external android device 👍🏻

Pigeons hate the human race... LOL :)

@LondonViewpoints

3 жыл бұрын

Don’t they just 😂

@RaulCasquet

3 жыл бұрын

@@LondonViewpoints They are are certainly really good at destroying any statues and monuments! I will definitely have to try the P mode on my canon, never thought it could be so useful. Do you mind if I ask you about where is the vantage point where you shot that view of Tower bridge?

@LondonViewpoints

3 жыл бұрын

Raul Casquet P mode can be indeed very useful, not in all scenarios as and when you can manual is always best, but when you can’t be there P is the way. The viewpoint is on the north side of the river, closer to London Bridge and it’s a public access open 24/7 terrace on the river

@RaulCasquet

3 жыл бұрын

@@LondonViewpoints thanks, I will check it out

Lol bald statements for p user Holy grail is easily achieved with lrtimelapse even on old Nikon d7000 lol

@LondonViewpoints

2 жыл бұрын

But it is, once you set it up correctly it’s easy and just works

@Dylon1981

Жыл бұрын

I have my old D7000 with 800K+ clicks. still works but I would like to try this holy grail until it dies. care to share how?

Mate, it would have been better if you have shown the settings on an actual camera than just mumble about it and let our imagination run the course.

@LondonViewpoints

Жыл бұрын

I know, English not being my first language is why I need to work on my delivery of getting to the point, and also when I rush to location and want to get the timelapse started is often why I can’t show the settings beforehand and my screen goes blank is I use the inbuilt intervalomerer

@Dylon1981

Жыл бұрын

@@LondonViewpoints thanks for replying. I cant make it work on my Z6II, D750, and D7500 using your instructions. If you can find time to show it using your camera it would be very helpful.

@LondonViewpoints

Жыл бұрын

@@Dylon1981 cannot confirm if it works the same on pre Z bodies, but on your Z6 II is should work, put it in P mode, set the auto iso to desired min shutter and trmporarily set it to 512000 then dial the aperture to f22 or max you can, and then lastly in auto iso settings change it back to 100 , then aperture should reset to what it needs to be and it’ll ramp last (for sunrise, or first for sunset )now, good luck

Helpful video but please try to get to the point quicker next time!

@LondonViewpoints

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks, yeah I struggle with that, I somehow can only be very thorough🤷🏼‍♂️

Great idea. But please lose that horrible music.

@MatthewVandeputte

5 жыл бұрын

Nothing wrong with the music.

@4CardsMan

5 жыл бұрын

The music behind you. It was not loud, but the jangly nature of it distracted me from what you were saying.