This was really well done and informative. Thanks for helping.

@EastTactics

4 жыл бұрын

Glad you enjoyed it!

Great informative video. Thanks.

I tried the Mugen Shim kit in my V5 Typhon BLX last night and they were way too tight. Maybe they have slightly tightened the tolerances of their diff cups since 2019. Thanks for all the tips. I'll keep the shims to try on the open rear diff on my Kraton EXB.

@mojojoji5493

Жыл бұрын

Pro tip: get sand paper and shave it down till it fits

Thank you for these great tips and tricks. It helped me a lot. What do you use to get the old diff oil removed? Thanks dude.

@EastTactics

4 жыл бұрын

This stuff works great to dissolve the diff fluid Clean diff fluid - amzn.to/2Zlilhk

My diffs have been driving me nuts! It was good I worked on all three, but I am back at the rear diff. I have an Outcast 6s EXB, but this was still helpful. I need to emphasize having a solid seal. My rear diff has been leaking and even pushed out a couple screws.

@EastTactics

2 жыл бұрын

Ya I need to make a new video on diff tips for the EXB. Now that I have one sitting here in my workspace. Are you running an open diff (with recommended shims) or are you running the diff with the lsd plates?

@robertb.4202

2 жыл бұрын

@@EastTactics, they actually give you the LSD diffs. You can rearrange the plates to maximize or minimize the LSD effect. I had to change fluid and the gasket. Unfortunately, the first time I did that, my rig still acted front biased. No wheelies. I have since worked on the center and front diffs, but had to go back to the rear. I will have to test drive and see if my rebuild did the trick. The teeth on the gears look good, but I wonder if I need to shim.

Looks like link to the high end dog bones appears to no longer be working - may need to be updated. Thx!

Great video!!

@EastTactics

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks!

loading up on parts now and gonna rebuild all 3. My Center Diff on the new Outcast EXB RTR is already flinging fluid on my bashes, time to upgrade/ rebuild! can't wait

@EastTactics

2 жыл бұрын

Good times!!! 😎👍

@joef4845

2 жыл бұрын

@@EastTactics i've been trying to find springs from your other video and just can't get them for the outcast. if i remember right they are sold out, any idea what i could buy as well? i'm online with M2C for caps and pistons right now. i'll look over your videos again for what oils and do them when i get the m2c caps in. amazing stuff and i love the detail you show!! thank you!

@EastTactics

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks!! Have you checked inventory lately at centurysprings.com for the 1631 part number? I ordered mine a month or two back and it was put on back order. But then last week they finally arrived. So it doesn’t hurt to put an order in and then get it put on back order. But due to the fact of mine arrived last week I’m wondering if they’re currently in stock again. After getting the 1631 part number in my hand I’m feeling like this is gonna be a really good spring. On this particular spring however you do have to take your Dremel tool and flatten out both ends of the spring on all four springs so it sits right. As far as the weight differential fluid to put in your shocks after getting the springs. I will probably go with 3000 CST. I currently have 5000 CST in mine. I think when I drop down a bit I’ll like it even more. Naturally more videos to come on this topic

@joef4845

2 жыл бұрын

@@EastTactics exactly, it was on back order and I'm lil impatient that's why I was asking if you had others. I got really excited when I saw your video about those springs. I don't want to double up orange springs or go 25mill shocks. I'll just order them even on back order. Thanks again

@EastTactics

2 жыл бұрын

I’ve got a full set of the big rock springs also I’ve got a full set of 10548 springs and they are great Springs. if you want email me Andre can talk about you picking them up for me. You know… If you want

Put a peice a sand paper on a flat surface and flip the case over on it and you can sand those bures right of then any gasket while work

@EastTactics

3 жыл бұрын

That’s a great tip

grate video man. you can send link\URL for the yellow bearings

@EastTactics

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks😎💪👊 Link to the avid bearing purchase: www.avidrc.com/flexkit/?kit=1507&kitname=Talion

Great video. For the gasket on the diff my truck is brand new never used actually waiting on shimes before I take it out. Also the fluids I'm using 100k in rear and 30k center. 10k front that what the hobby store recommend. Most of power goes to the rest end that why some of the EXBs and Kraton are have issues on the rear diffs

@EastTactics

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks! Im glad you like the Video. The Hobby store recommended that! Thats a really odd recommendation. Are you running the EXB? or the V4 Kraton? The V4 Kraton and the EXB comes stock with Rear 10,000cst, Center 100,000cst and front 10,000cst. Notice the Ratio for the Center is Much much higher. Theres really good reason for it. You want your Center Diff to be much thicker than the other two. Most people run between 200,000cst and 500,000cst. (or higher, a lot of people run 1million in the center, or silicon earplugs). Long story short, the idea of dropping your center to 30k is a bad idea (from what I know). Also.. its a misconception that increasing your rear diff fluid thickness will protect your gears. In fact its the opposite. the added resistance actually just puts more stress on the gears and increase breakages. So definitely dont go to 100k in the rear. You want thinner fluid in the rear such as 10k or 20k. I dont recommend going past 20k in the rear. As for the front, many people do like to go a bit thicker in the front (but nowhere near as thick as the center) to mitigate ballooning. So jumping up to 60 or 80k in the front is ok... but 10k (which is stock) is considered low, for the front. (Veterans will say) I run 20k, 200k, 80k for my set up and that came straight from Rich Duperbash and RC Dude 81 (both huge guru's in the field). So ya... not sure what the hobby store guy was going on about, buy you can try his methods if you want. The important thing with either the Kraton or the EXB, is that you have things shimmed correctly and that you don't over gear your kraton (meaning the pinion size) for the stock Motor and ESC (stock 13T or the high speed 15T is fine. I run a 16T. Back when I didnt know better I ran a 20T pinion (with stock motor and ESC) and was breaking rear diff gears right and left). Controlling the vehicle correctly, not landing while holding the gas down, or being too overly aggressive on the throttle on take offs etc is important too. I'm actually going to be putting silicon ear plugs in my center diff her pretty soon. which is going to be really interested. Stay tuned.

@paulrakis

3 жыл бұрын

@@EastTactics Ok Great thank you for that information. Yes I talk to rich as well I haven't ask him about the diff fluids. Wow ok so great yeh he is a expert on this so I will do that for sure. Just gonna do 10k in front and rear now and 500k in center. Maybe il mix some 100k into the front diff and rear that should be ok. I have the EXB so it's definitely built like a race truck. I even checked for the bolts and my steering is all out of whack I have to fix all of that. There's a slap this thing together at the factory without really checking it much. Of course being the professional RC drivers we have to go over everything before use.

@pablito2k11

3 жыл бұрын

What happens when you add the silicone ear plugs? Would that be about the same as adding 1million weight to the center diff? Do you keep the front and rear weights the same? Im in the process of swapping fluids and I have 30k, 50k, 500k , and 1million. I will be going to get some 20k tomorrow. Thanks for the video its very informative but just trying to get everything figured out as to do the silicone ear plugs or stick to 500k for the center diff. Thanks again man!

@EastTactics

3 жыл бұрын

From what I understand silicon earplugs is like having 1 million weight times three. It’s pretty much the closest you can get to locking your differential yet you’re not locking it because there is some give. From what I understand, and again I plan to drop a video on this, forgive me for not doing it yet. But it distributes the power of the drivetrain more evenly through all four tires and and puts traction to the ground almost immediately. Many people say that even if you’re running your stock components, she’ll do a standing backflip if you got it off the line. Is that a good thing? To each their own, obviously if you’re tuning more for racing and increased control off the line without potentially skidding or fishtailing then you wouldn’t want to do silicon earplugs. However all the people that I’ve asked in the bashing arena say that they actually like it. Most are veterans and have mastered the power of of 6s and easing off the line when wanting to mitigate control. Running silicon in the center differential might take some getting used to, but some actually prefer it. I’ve also heard that because the power is distributed more evenly throughout the drive train the front and balloons a bit less. Currently I’m running 20 career, 200k Center, and 80 K front. I don’t have any intentions to change my rear or my front, pretty happy with where they are are. However I am 100% planning on rocking some silicon In the center to see if I like it. If I don’t I’ll drop to probably 500 and see how that feels.

@pablito2k11

3 жыл бұрын

@@EastTactics is yours all stock? Any recommendations on upgrading parts for the ear plugs? I dont do much racing with mine i do jumps, and alot of offroading. I do like the fact that of the standing flip and eventually I will be trying to get alot of air with mine. Right now its 10 degrees where I'm at so im sure there will be lots of broken parts if I try to do anything crazy. Im going to see how this 500k center diff will do. I will probably go ahead and order the silicone e earplugs and go from there. Thanks again man. Can't wait to see the video on this subject!

awesome video

@EastTactics

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks

What about the TLR typhon can you take out two inner gears and just run with two for racing? Then shim with mugen shims? 7,5,3 oil. Lose dirt track.

@EastTactics

Жыл бұрын

No clue

4:30 the original gasket has bigger holes for the screws compared to TekJo, just so that it will go around those exact protrusions. this of course means that the remaining material for each hole's wall will be thinner so breaks easier. I think that's the only quality difference stock vs TekJo. BUT if you go with TekJo you HAVE TO to shim/shave those protrusions off

@mohammedconor7141

2 жыл бұрын

InstaBlaster.

I used to strip diffs alot

Hey man I’ve got a arrma Kraton v1 and what t spur should I get 50 or 43 or do both fit

@EastTactics

Жыл бұрын

Both will work, i'd go 50. 43 you may run into heat issues

20/200/60 - good for Talions?

Did it seal or did it keep seeping out? Good tips btw, thanks.

@EastTactics

4 жыл бұрын

Sealed up great! Those tech joe gaskets are way better

It looks that the leak is from the internal o-ring.. The gasket is preventing the oil to pass threw the big ring and the diff cup connected.. so i guess its o ring.. From where was the leak at the end?.. Great vids !! I love them.

@EastTactics

4 жыл бұрын

ETAI106, Turns out after getting the Tech Joe gaskets my leak went away. However I also did pick up some green slime from Amazon and put that on the little o-ring First before seating it into position. Stuff is amazing! HALOFUN 1105 Factory Team Green Slime www.amazon.com/dp/B0006MZS1I/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_BGUyEbV19WGDA

@3SonsRC

4 жыл бұрын

@@EastTactics yeah, used that green slime on the o rings and the plainitary shim and was great... Great tip I got from Duperbash

You should tighten the screws in a cross pattern. You May end up with a leak if you tighten it the way you did.

@EastTactics

4 жыл бұрын

Will do thx!

You should tighten screws in an opposing pattern, not circular. Going in a circle pushes material/gasket as you go around and will bunch up at the end causing leaks. This is standard in automotive, even for wheel tightening sequence they reccomend it to ensure proper torque.

@EastTactics

3 жыл бұрын

Ya your right, thanks for the tip brother! Thanks for watching

Great video. Would you recommend 10K for my notorious 6s for the rear differential? Didn't touch anything else yet. Only run the truck like six times so fluid now looks like liquid metal so I'm going to change it.

@EastTactics

3 жыл бұрын

10 K fluid will work just fine. However I would recommend going 20 K in the rear, and then anywhere between 200 - 500 K in the center. And 60 or 80 K in the front. The thicker that you go in the center differential , The more immediate torque you throw to the ground. In other words you’re getting closer to being able to do a standing backflip or wheeling a lot easier. Some people like that idea, (In fact 500 K likely wouldn’t get you there, standing backflips, 1000,000 K or silicon earplugs more so increases that potential). however some people, especially those running the shorter wheelbase outcast/notorious Want to prevent it from Wheeling so easy. Also thicker differential fluid in the center transfers the power a bit better (Between front and rear)and prevents as much ballooning in the front end. So going a bit thinner in the center differential, tames it a bit more. Less Squirrley, if that makes sense. Center...It comes stock at 100 K,

@paulrakis

3 жыл бұрын

@@EastTactics ok great thanks. Would 50k be good on the front? I'm gonna mix some 50k with 10k for the rear should be good on that. Center il like 500k cuz that what I did for my EXB Kraton. Where u from on east coast ?

@EastTactics

3 жыл бұрын

50k will be fine for the front. I’m from Utah😀

@paulrakis

3 жыл бұрын

@@EastTactics ok thanks. Actually so I just put 10K in my reader and it feels a little bit notchy or something is like feels like it's grinding it actually felt a lot smoother when the old stuff was in. Recommend I just dump it out and put more stuff back in again. I did not take any of your bottom gears out I just dumped it out and put a fluid in probably got some metal shavings in the bottom that got loosened up. Nuts

@paulrakis

3 жыл бұрын

@@EastTactics Kool man I'm from NY. Doing a video tomorrow small one I'll give you a shout out. Just differential stuff can get really tricky. It's good to talk somebody was very knowledgeable about this stuff I'm still learning especially with my EXB which I'm gonna do the diffs tomorrow and shims

I have the TLR Typhone...will 200k be better for it, and will it give it more power??

@EastTactics

6 ай бұрын

The higher, you go, translate, more even disbursed power to all four tires, has pretty dramatic impact on less ballooning if that’s an issue for you. So does it translate into more power? It sort of feels like it does. You’re definitely safe to experiment with increasing the thickness in your center differential Most people like it thicker.

Just curious. But what weight fluids do you guys run in the 6s. I shattered a sun gear and a couple spider gears lmao 🤣 and just curious what everyone was running. I think I had the rear at 30k maybe 50k I can't remember lol

@EastTactics

2 жыл бұрын

Rear - 20k Center - silicone earplugs Front - 80 K What motor are you running? And what pinion? Overgearing makes things unhappy. So I was just curious.

@Reecefpv

2 жыл бұрын

@@EastTactics 17t with stock system and good fans. This set of gears has been through the ringer. I'm not disappointed at all on how long they lasted. I had rebuilt them right out the gate and shimmed them. and I'm not easy on it by any means lol. It lasted almost 8 months of torture on huge Ramps.

Tighten bolts in a cross pattern. Might be getting leaks tightening them in a Circle.

@EastTactics

4 жыл бұрын

thx for the tip... having tech joe gaskets has been great, no leaks.. but I will definitely head your advice! thx

@mojojoji5493

Жыл бұрын

@@EastTactics yea the leaks was most likely from uneven screwing down without crisscross pattern/star pattern

What about automotive RTV like Permatex ultra black? how do you feel about silicon sealants such as that?

@EastTactics

3 жыл бұрын

What exactly will you be using it for, to clean out the differentials. Or to lubricate them on the exterior?

@koldleblue5079

3 жыл бұрын

@@EastTactics RTV is a silicon Sealant. i use on valve cover corners and truck diffs to oil pans. if i took a que-tip and spread it lightly to prevent it oozing into the diff i think it would work in this application on my typhon, ill try it out. i didn't know there was a dry hard gasket on it like that.

@EastTactics

3 жыл бұрын

@@koldleblue5079, Cool… Sounds like it should work pretty good then. This is the stuff I use for the outside of my differentials. kzread.info/dash/bejne/oXat3Ml9fpPNhKQ.html

Awesome but what’s causing the seeping out at 9:43 🤔

@EastTactics

3 жыл бұрын

Oh… that’s a natural occurrence when first pushing down those plates into the diff cub. On another note however, there is something I do now days that I didn’t cover in this video (to prevent leakage). Take the cup, while empty, flat face down and rub it on some light weight sand paper. Get rid of all the little burrs found around the top, particularly around the holes. The flat face down position allow for the whole top to be smoothed out evenly and get rid of any imperfections. Cheers!

How often do u do this with differentials

@EastTactics

2 жыл бұрын

Hey Troy how’s it going! Sorry I missed this question 10 months ago. Actually KZread just updated their KZread studio application for mobile. And now I have the ability to look back and see what questions I missed in history. That’s why am answering now ha ha. I actually don’t have to dig into the differentials as much anymore since I dropped my Pinyan down. A lot less breakage is. I was way over killing it with 2Ot. I now run silicone earplugs in the center differential and a 12 to 13 lol. Leaves are not I can actually do a standing backflip. I am going to be switching to a new motor and ESC in the near future though. 1730 KV with a 8s ESC

I just cleaned and reoiled my center diff on the outcast after I was done I noticed theres a little hole that's meant to be there its in the exploited view on tower on the rear diff not on the center diff but is on the exploited view of the notorious, what is this hole??? seems like oil would leak out of it but I see no oil coming out of it.

@EastTactics

4 жыл бұрын

brian Stover, Yeah, I know what you’re talking about. I don’t know what it’s for, but I can assure you that it doesn’t go all the way through into the chamber.

@3SonsRC

4 жыл бұрын

@@EastTactics it's a grub screw hole and I think if you want to drain your oil out you can. Maybe if you filled you diff too much and want to let a little out without taking it apart again?

Keep trying to find a video of how the feel of the diff should be when you turn it in your hands, how smooth or notchey is right? Any sound at all and what too much shimming feels/looks/sounds like?? I'm doing my first diffs on my Kraton and just want to get it right the first time. Hadn't realized I didn't sub with my new channel. Was posting under @Dennis Scott and started a new RC channel... Check it out. Thanks for your help on these current questions 👏

@EastTactics

4 жыл бұрын

Noted!

@troyflanagan4237

3 жыл бұрын

Looks overwhelming for the first time

I keep stripping the hex on those last 4 screws!! Driving me crazy haha this is my 3rd attempt so I went and got the hot racing diff carrier cup . Hopefully it does the job after I shim it with the mugen shims . Awesome video thanks

@3SonsRC

4 жыл бұрын

If your stripping the hexes on the dif screws you need better drivers. There is a reason everyone says MIP and nothing else.... They make that much a difference. I didn't believe until I had the similar issues so I finally just spend the $40 and now no worries.... Everyone is right

@user-qz6ix7od3b

3 жыл бұрын

then move on to the next level: torx

@ValFPV

3 жыл бұрын

Dude I've never stripped one of those but I've overtightened one! Make sure you use good tools with good tolerances, not the crappy things that come with the kit

My typhon 6s is putting more power to the front than the rear, i hope it’s just the center diff oil, I’m going to tear it down today

@EastTactics

3 жыл бұрын

Going thicker in the front with help, like 100k. Also going thicker in the center helps mitigate front end ballooning. Like 500k or 1M. I’m actually going to be tossing some silicon earplugs into my center diff here soon. And will report the results. What were you running in the center?

@serg.r4860

3 жыл бұрын

My outcast was doing the same thing (more power to the front) i put 50k/100k/half 30k half 10k .....front/center/rear

My bet is your O ring has failed and is leaking oil through the hole where the shaft goes into the diff which attaches to the sun gear. In fact I’d put money on it. Plus you would get a better seal if you tightened the screws in a cross pattern as opposed to a circular pattern just to make sure the Gasket seats correctly on opposite sides first. Before torquing the screws down. I understand this is an old video now but my theory may also help others

@EastTactics

11 ай бұрын

Who sings definitely helped her make sure they are done for her. I will say though however, after changing out my spiral gear itself to resolve my problem. The hole was slightly warped big

Hay what’s sup I’m about to shim my diffs I got the mugenseiki shims should I replace all diff shims on the planetary gears or add 2 to each diff. Tia

@EastTactics

3 жыл бұрын

The mugenseiki shims are actually a bit thicker than the classic stock shims. For the spider gears, you don’t need to worry about adding an extra Shim in, In the every other fashion. For the spider gears, four shim total sill work. Many people are finding that when they install the large mugenseiki Shims behind the planetary gears it ends up being too tight. So I would actually recommend that you not use the mugenseiki shims behind the planetary gears. Instead stick with a small shim that comes stock To protect that small O-ring.

@pitorican9723

3 жыл бұрын

@@EastTactics cool ty very much I’m actually going thru ur video rite now thanks for all the info bro really helpful

@EastTactics

3 жыл бұрын

Any time😎💪

@pitorican9723

3 жыл бұрын

@@EastTactics I got the v2 so the planetary gears don’t have no shims so I’m going to put one only of the mugenseiki shim and see how that goes

@EastTactics

3 жыл бұрын

Sounds good. Correct me if I’m wrong, but the V2 didn’t have any shims anywhere! So the fact that you’re putting them in is it gonna be really good

What yellow seal bearings are them

@EastTactics

3 жыл бұрын

Bearings kit (includes servo savor bearings) amzn.to/2Xdi7Gg Avid bearing kit www.avidrc.com/flexkit/?kit=1507&kitname=Kraton

Idk if I missed it or if you didn't say. But can you reuse the original gasket if need be

@EastTactics

3 жыл бұрын

If they’re in good condition and they’re not ripped in anyway. You can carefully dry them and reuse them. However if they are torn or worn bare in any spots youll want to pick up some replacements.

@coledaddy818

3 жыл бұрын

@@EastTactics cool thanks man. I don't even have 3 full batteries ran through the typhon 3s but I'm gonna do some track racing soon and wanna put new fluids in. Do you know a good WT for front and rear of the 3s. I bash some and gonna race some with proline m2s I believe they are

@EastTactics

3 жыл бұрын

Well for the Kraton 6s I run 20 K in the rear 200K to 500K in the center, and 80 K in the front. That’s a good set up for a hard-core bashing. As far as for the 3S and racing, I recon The stock set up is probably good but you want to just make sure they are properly filled. Unfortunately I’m not sure what’s ideal for that platform. Are you familiar with the Arrma forums? I have a good feeling you can probably get your answer there.

@coledaddy818

3 жыл бұрын

@@EastTactics good idea. Thanks man 👍. I'll get the kraton one day lol

Is it the fact I’m using 1 million in my Outcast Center diff the cause of rear Center driveshaft excessive wear. What diff fluid should I go with to help maintain longevity equal gear wear. Mine is always the same. Rear Center drive shafts loose their hard coating in a few lipo packs. I’ve replaced a few times now.

@EastTactics

3 жыл бұрын

I have a quick clarification question for you so I can get a better understanding of what exactly is wearing out on your Outcast. You mention that your rear and center drive shafts are wearing. Typically I don't hear about the drive shafts themselfs wearing out, rather I hear about them bending etc. When you say Drive shafts (at least for me) I'm thinking your talking about the dog bone/Shaft/bar that goes from the rear outdrive to the center outdrive, and likewise the front one that leads to the from Diff house. Are you saying, that is whats wearing out? Otherwise, I think you might be instead talking out the main spiral or input gears that exist on both the front and rear of the vehicle. Another common gear to strip out is the actual Ring gears on both the front and back diff cups. the two gears I just mentioned pair to one another and are probably the most common things to wear out/strip in our RC's. Are you rather talking out those? or Are your actual drivie shafts breaking/snapping. And by snapping Im meing the little nubs on the ends that catch inside the outdrive cups. let me know. Happy to help. More over... if your having issues with gears stripping too easily, answer me these few questions too. Are you wheelie happy, or punch happy. I.E. do you try to pull of standing backflips, or while going 10 -20 mph do quick bursts to pop the front end up and start to wheelie? Second Question - What tires are you running... Stock... or heavier tires? You mention your running 1 mil in the center... what are you running in the rear and front? How confident are you in your mesh settings for your three diffs.. are they all shimmed properly? These answers will help me help you solve this issue. ~ EastTactics

@rcsendandblast1579

3 жыл бұрын

@@EastTactics Much appreciated man. Help is gold. I meant to say more clear that the dog bone metal pins and drive cups wear extremely fast. Especially on the Center / rear side Dogbone. And drive cups. Input pinion and crown is no issue. Stock wheels and keaton wheels 12 and 14 pinion I use. I think the thick oil is causing the Dogbone pins to wear but I may be wrong. I’m a still learning this stuff. 👊😀 I’ll take any help I can get. ❤️

@EastTactics

3 жыл бұрын

@@rcsendandblast1579 Interesting! I've never heard of anyone with this issue. You must have bullet proofed your diffs like a champ if your wear issues are on the shaft and the cups themselfs, (particularly the rear system, as you mention) which are tank components. Tell me, how long does it take for the system to break/strip out or otherwise stop working before you have to replace a part? And which parts exactly is needing replaced? you mention 3 to 4 packs... is that consistent. Which parts is giving way, is it the dog bone itself, are the T nubs at the end wearing off? (if so, which end). Or is it more the outdrive cup? (if the cup, which one in particular, far rear, or rear center, or both. If the drive Cup going, is one side or the other wearing to point where it snaps completely off. Again I find this very interesting, especially since I considering upping my center diff fluid from 200k to silicon earplugs. lol

@rcsendandblast1579

3 жыл бұрын

@@EastTactics It is only the pins and drive cups that take the fastest damage. I took advice from a good friend who showed me what shims to use and how to assemble it. Yes the Diffs seem bulletproof. Just wish I figured out why my dog bone pins are taking wear within a few lipo packs. I am going thinner way thinner on diff fluids hopefully that helps. I believe when I gas it the rear wheels have to much power transfer going back there and not enough wheel spin in the front. This I believe is what may be the case.

@EastTactics

3 жыл бұрын

@@rcsendandblast1579 that makes sense. I run 200k in my center... but have been considering putting in the silicon earplugs to see how that feels. Sounds like I might start jacking up my dogbone pins, and diff cups if I do. lol. what fluids you running in the front and rear?

Can't u put a thin grease?? Maybe make your own gasket out of gasket?

@EastTactics

2 жыл бұрын

No…you really should stick with silicon-based differential fluid in the diffs. eBay… or Amazon.

Great video,,but where can I get those shims, Thanks

@EastTactics

4 жыл бұрын

Amazon (search) MUGEN SEIKI E0206 Differential Washer Set X6/X6T/M-Spec MUGC1206 Or if you want to stick with the stock shims as well as get some back up differential components (which is always a good idea) snag this off Amazon. Arrma AR310436 Differential Gear Set

@brianstover4732

4 жыл бұрын

@@EastTactics thx I paused your video and saw the number E0206 went on ebay and ordered them,,,got a question my outcast 6s wont wheelie anymore, runs as fast as ever , batteries are fine, I rebuilt differential last summer and it wouldn't wheelie until I saw the throttle trim was all the way down I turned it up and wheelied great,,but a month or so later it would only wheelie for a short distance on dirt not at all on pavement,,could it be the engne? im going to take the diff apart anyway and clean it and put the shims and gasket you show on/in it,,what oil would you use? any ideas on the wheelie problem? it has been used for 2 summers,. Thank you!

@EastTactics

4 жыл бұрын

Hey Brian it could be a number of things, but it’s definitely going to be tied to the drivetrain and maybe friction oriented things. Are your bearings bad you might have a bunch of bad bearings that is causing too much friction. That’s probably the last thing I would check however. Understanding the drivetrain components might lend a little bit a light on your issue as well. For instance if you’ve got a very large pinion gear then you’re going to lose low end acceleration to some degree not a ton tho. The smaller or less teeth on a pinion gear translates to higher torque on the lower end of your burst speed. Which means help in the arena of Doing willies. A pinion gear with a ton of teeth say 18 to 22 is going to increase the top speed of your vehicle. It’s not much of a difference, but it’s still something to take note of. Also if your mesh is off In the front and back end or middle of your vehicle you could be losing low-end torque because of stripping. Pay close attention to all the areas shimming helps here. Another thing to check would be your punch settings on your ESC. Have you turned your punch settings all the way up? Your engine could very well be playing a part in this issue, if over the years the engine has lost some of its power then your problem could be solved simply by getting a newer engine. How are the teeth looking on your gears, Are you hearing stripping noises when you’re punching it trying to do a Willy? Your pinion gear or your input gears on the front and back end of your vehicles might be worn out taking away torque. Another thing to consider is your remote control and your receiver. There might be a communication issue With those components. I know when I changed over from my spectrum to

@brianstover4732

4 жыл бұрын

@@EastTactics thx for the reply but where you say (MESH) it stops ,could you start where that left off,,and I wonder if that pinion gear slipped a tiny bit making the connection between it and the spur to loose although by hand they turn good together

@EastTactics

4 жыл бұрын

...Also if your mesh is off In the front and back end or middle of your vehicle you could be losing low-end torque because of stripping. Pay close attention to all the areas shimming helps here. If this video doesn’t mention those external shims I believe another one of my videos does. Another thing to check would be your punch settings on your ESC. Have you turned your punch settings all the way up? Your engine could very well be playing a part in this issue, if over the years the engine has lost some of its power then your problem could be solved simply by getting a newer engine. I believe engines are relatively cheap, and either way it would be fun to get a new engine, especially the faster one. LOL How are the teeth looking on your gears, Are you hearing stripping noises when you’re punching it trying to do a Willy? Your pinion gear or your input gears on the front and back end of your vehicles might be worn out taking away torque. Another thing to consider is your remote control and your receiver. There might be a communication issue With those components. I know when I changed over from my spectrum to tactic The communication/link between myself and my car felt improved in a lot of areas.

My notorious came with no seal Slung diff oil everywhere

@EastTactics

2 жыл бұрын

Crazy! Sorry to hear that. Way to go arrma😩

Im going to try 50k cst f 300k cst mid and 20k cst rear see how it goes

@EastTactics

3 жыл бұрын

That’s legit 👍

@daniellongatti3935

3 жыл бұрын

@@EastTactics only problem is that I could not get the team Associated one the only brand that is available in au is a brand called team zombie have you heard of that before

@EastTactics

3 жыл бұрын

I haven’t. I don’t know what the deal is with team associated. Seem COVID hit them hard or something.

@daniellongatti3935

3 жыл бұрын

@@EastTactics the rc shop says they are having issues getting the bottles to put the fuild in

@EastTactics

3 жыл бұрын

Interesting 🤔 hopefully they can get back going.

Very helpful but looks hard to do looks like going into surgery dude

@EastTactics

3 жыл бұрын

Fortunately you don’t need to go In to often if your vehicle is set up correctly. It’s not really to difficult once you’ve done it a few times.

Why not just put Lucas tacky grease in there?.....it'll never leak

small file on that dif housing , that killed your gasket

@EastTactics

3 жыл бұрын

Are you saying I should use a small file on the deck housing before I put the gasket down to prevent leakage? Using the X-Acto knife was a bad idea? I think that’s what you’re saying. What do you suggest instead of using a small pile just turning a hold of house upside down on some fine sandpaper would also be a good idea?

@MrBumbles2

3 жыл бұрын

@@EastTactics yea with a block would do, i used 1000 grit on a flat table lightly in circles to knock down the bur and haven't had a gasket issue since,,, it was cutting gasket

@EastTactics

3 жыл бұрын

Nice! Ya I’ll do that!

@MrBumbles2

3 жыл бұрын

@@EastTactics yea , cleaned it with brake cleaner and blew it out with compressed air. nice smooth mating surface

You know what is an even better tip? Stay away from the Arma 6s line. It has the poorest manafactered drive train I have ever seen. Got rid of my Arma 6s. I had to stock pile shimms and diff rings and pinions for it. What a horrible design. The Arma 3s line trucks are way better bashers.

@EastTactics

2 жыл бұрын

I’m sure if you ran the Kraton on 3s only you’d find the same outcome as with the 3s line. Once shimmed correctly at Least for me, mines been fine. I love the 6s line and the power they have. But ya, they are more prone to wear issues in the drive train no doubt.

@Schmidt3850

2 жыл бұрын

Why would you run a 6s truck on 3s anyway. To me that makes no sense. Been in this hobby for a long time owned many 3s 6s 8s trucks. I have a 3s big rock and it has plenty of power and no drive train problem. Unlike the junk Kraton I had.

@EastTactics

2 жыл бұрын

I don’t think anyone would. I was just try to make the point that 3s is a lot easier in any drive train. They improved the gears in the EXB. You might have better luck there if you ever try the 6s line again. I have both the EXB and the V4, no real issues that were not my own fault. I had her geared (pinion wise) too high for a bit. She didn’t like that. Backed off and it’s been gear since. Sorry to hear bout your troubles. Heard good thing about the Slegde, especially after m2C puts out the upgrades motor mount. I’ll likely nab one of those then. Hope you have a great weekend brother! 😎

@Schmidt3850

2 жыл бұрын

Yeah l checked out the new exb system as well they put some kind of slipper plates in the diffs which did nothing to solve the problem. People are still having to shimm the hell out of them so they don't strip out. The bottom line is that they put a skimpy little diff ring and pinion in a big heavy 6s powerful truck. Horrible design. Instead of putting some kind of slipper plates in the diff. Why not just put a larger diff ring and pinion in the truck so it can handle a heavy 6s truck. Problem solved. My days with the Arma 6s line are over plus they have metal chassis I Bent every metal chassis truck I have owned. The only one l never Bent was the m2c metal chassis better not bend for a 150$. I am a hardcore basher and to be honest the big rock is one of the best bashers l have owned.

@EastTactics

2 жыл бұрын

Right, but you can remove the slipper plates and they have a special kit you can put in to run open Diff. And as far as the EXB goes they did a beef up the gears both the spiral input gear and the ring gears on the differentials are sporting thicker and longer teeth. Not trying to be convince you to re-open the book on Arrma but I just say’n. Yeah I’ve heard those big rocks are amazing