I have found that the cheaper calipers drain batteries more rapidly. Usually a couple months. I expect the issue shown with the neiko arriving with a dead battery will be an unpleasant surprise repeated many times. My Mitutoyo calipers have been totally reliable and running on the same battery for several years. Being ready to go every time i pick them up has been worth it for me.

@henrymach

3 ай бұрын

I noticed the same thing. My el cheapos go through batteries at a higher pace than the Japanese

@kristoffscuba5466

3 ай бұрын

Same. I leave mine with the battery out. But then I only use them a handful of times a year. If I was using them daily I’d pay the money for better ones.

@timothym2241

3 ай бұрын

It’s annoying. I pull the battery out after use.

@larsmark

3 ай бұрын

I was going to write that too. The battery life is usually A LOT better.

@JohnK8

3 ай бұрын

Same here. I have a Mitutoyo that have had for at least 35 years.

Before I retired, I ran a laboratory that calibrated vernier callipers as one of our services. We bought a range of cheap vernier callipers and put them over the gauge blocks. They all passed easily. We're they as smooth and nice to operate as the high end units, no. But they did the job just as well.

@_hector__

3 ай бұрын

thank you for sharing

@TimWelds

3 ай бұрын

I think the way vernier calipers work is fascinating. Really simple, yet really smart as well.

@ed_cetera

3 ай бұрын

They are talking about battery operated digital calipers here, not vernier calipers, of course you know the difference if you worked at a calibration place

@jackdawg4579

3 ай бұрын

they are called the same thing where I come from... @@ed_cetera

I agree, if you can afford it, it's best to have a cheap set and a quality set. I have both and they each have their place in my shop. The cheap set from HF are amazingly accurate, but if I drop them or they happen to get a little weld spatter on them, , it's no big deal. The Mitutoyo have a much better action and feel, but I only use them for very critical jobs. One thing you did not mention is that the battery holder on the HF caliper is really cheap and easily damaged when changing batteries. The Mitutoyo battery holder is of much higher quality. Thanks for the review. Always enjoy our vids!

@1pcfred

3 ай бұрын

I mostly use my Mitutoyos. But if I know I'm going to be roughing it with the instrument then I break out a cheap pair.

Mitutoyo is still the gold standard for those that work in a shop. Some like the brown and sharpe too. If I gotta use the saw though, I pull out the Spi’s!

Typical of the more affordable digitals is that the on/off button only functions for the display. I found out over the years and don't leave a battery in one for weeks or more. That said, I'm still happier using a dial caliper except for a few instances when reloading where mics are preferred (case head expansion, neck thickness, bullets, etc) to measure in tenths vs half a thou. Mitu mics, HFT calipers. 🙂

If using digital frequently, keeping the battery fresh helps….but if you get them out rarely…you are better off with non battery calipers. Don’t like vernier scales? Just get a dial caliper - just as accurate, easier to read and no batts to change!

@philipbunker146

3 ай бұрын

Totally agree with that. I can go a while without using my dial calliper and then use it lots. With the digital calliper when not used for a while, the time I do need it the battery is dead!

I bought an inexpensive I-Gaging brand off amazon like yours about 10yrs ago for $25 that has held up with occasional use. I think i'm on my second battery. Since I don't use them very often (maybe a dozen times a year) I pull the battery drawer out a fraction (just enough not to turn on) and then put it back in the case.

@Bob_Adkins

3 ай бұрын

I wish digital calipers had an OFF switch that was really off, or lower drain while idle. It's ridiculous just getting 3-4 uses from each battery. My Mitutoyo micrometer battery lasts for years, so it can be done.

Nice comparison video. I never had a set of digital calibers, so maybe it doesn't matter since you can zero them, but I was taught never to leave vernier calibers in the closed position due to thermal expansion and contraction could "spring" them. Maybe it is because I learned that from my dad who was an aircraft and missile engineer from the early- to mid-20th century, and 80-90-year-old calibers aren't as good as they are nowadays? But it probably can't hurt to leave them cracked slightly whatever the case.

I have the Pittsburg caliper and it has performed perfectly (at least to my needs) for nearly 10 years…changing the battery twice in that time. I believe most diy’ers and hobbyists can get by well with Harbor Freight tools. I don’t turn my nose down on cheap tools. In fact, I have a “cheap” Craftsman router that has been permanently mounted upside down in a router table for over thirty years…chips, dust, and what have you falling down into it. It still works fine. I paid like $30 for it. If it dies, then I can buy several more for the price of an upscale Porter Cable router, which I also have.

@1pcfred

3 ай бұрын

I have two different Pittsburg calipers and they both eat batteries like they're candy. They wouldn't go 5 months let alone 5 years.

I've bought several used US gov't surplus made in Germany Mahr MarCal calipers, which are incredible quality. IRC, they were around $40.

@TimWelds

3 ай бұрын

I love surplus deals when you can find them!

More measurement content and tips would be great Tim!

At $140 you can buy 8-10 of the cheaper ones. I been using both Vernier types and

@6Sally5

3 ай бұрын

10 years for me.

@steveclark..

Ай бұрын

Yeah, when you can by X amount of cheaper versions Vs one of the expensive ones, it's a no brainer really. Don't get me wrong, sure it's nice to have the best version of anything but I certainly can't afford to do that.

Over many years ive seen The more expensive ones tend to have better rejection of contamination throwing them off. I believe they use a magnetic internal gauge to know where they are placed , and contam or water getting under the digital readout can cause them to go haywire. Far less likely to happen with the good pair. I can also +1 the battery life being far better on pricer units. They also tend to zero much more reliably, like you saw. Thanks for the comparisons.

Thanks for the unbiased review. I was going to purchase the cheap version but my wife bought me a mid range set. I also have an analog set ( if that is the right term ) that clip in my pocket for when I’m out and about.

I love learning new measurement techniques. it's always nice to see how others do things

I am a beginner and my tolerances are so bad I use a folding wooden carpenters rule

Great presentation .. Thanks for the educational knowledge ..

I use an iGaging absolute zero digital caliper from Amazon. I think they were more like $30-40, but they've been super reliable. One thing I really like about them, is that they use a CR2025 battery, and it doesn't seem to go bad when they go un-used for months at a time. They are also very repeatable in their zero point. I've never used Mitutoyo or compared mine to them, so I can't vouch for accuracy. I'm usually using them for things like figuring out bolt sizes or measuring lengths where 0.1mm is plenty of precision.

@TimWelds

3 ай бұрын

I have a few iGaging products and they work pretty good for the price.

@ewildgoose

3 ай бұрын

Another vote here for igaging! You don't discuss quality of grinding of the jaws and that is good on these. Smoothness is also excellent. Of the "cheapos" these are my go to by far However they are very accurate, but constantly they are less accurate than my mitoroyos... I have now 3 pairs of the igaging which I use for general workshop use. I've other cheapo brands which are all playing up so used only in desperation. Then the mitu are brought out for near coolant or precise checking (caveat that they are nowhere near as accurate as a micrometer)

@philgiglio7922

2 ай бұрын

The battery number is actually the size of the battery. The first 2 numbers are the diameter in mm: the second 2 numbers are the battery thickness in decimal mm...in this case 2.5mm

Would love to see more tips and information on measurement. Thanks for a great channel!

thanks brother for the info there its real helpful ... right now am in scenario that i have to go to one of them and i find what i got thank you in advance .. and hope you release a video that you explain a techniques on how to measuring distance between centers spacing ... thank you so much for it again

I would think the repeatability would be better if you squeezed the jaws rather than pushing the wheel.

@LTVoyager

3 ай бұрын

I agree. That is how I use calipers. You can also better feel when the jaws are squarely on the part if you squeeze the jaws onto the part or gauge block.

@TimWelds

3 ай бұрын

Thanks for the tip! I'll give it a try.

@timothym2241

3 ай бұрын

I have my Mitutoyo dial calipers that I bought 30 plus years ago, and they are still going strong. Accurate to 1 thou and never need batteries. I have a cheap digital and don’t trust it for accuracy. It’s good enough for rough measurements on a lathe though, and the comparator function is handy, but I’d never trust it for the Final Cut. Micrometer is necessary if you want it accurate.

When I need to make a replacement part and I am taking measurements off the part, I generally use my ten year old Pittsburg calipers. Off drawings or prints I use my Starrett calipers and gauges.

Calipers are essential. I went with super cheap Amazon. Glad to have em.

Good comparison video, thank you for making good content. I have bought 5 pairs of the VINCA brand you had in the intro (Four 6" (2 given as gifts) and one 12") I've have had my 3 pairs for just over 3 years and use the atleast one of the 6" almost daily. They seem to be some of the "highest" quality cheap calipers, defiantly are smoother then the Pittsburg. Other than eating a battery every 6mo or so they are solid so far. Hope mine dont die soon as yours were the same age haha.

I did an apprenticeship in an engineering workshop using Mitutoyo and Moore & Wright micrometers and callipers, so therefore I am biased towards them for their quality, but I understand what you’re saying when it comes to cost vs occasional use in less demanding projects where tolerances are not crucial.

I've had an older set of Pittsburghs for longer than I can remember, rarely ever changing the battery. Bought a backup cheap pair on Amazon and the battery often needs replaced.

I still have my old Mitutoyo calipers that are over 30 years old and they are still accurate and working. They were expensive back in the day but well worth the money.

My Dad swore by Starrett but as a Japanophile who does Japanese carpentry, I've always bought Mitutoyo. For $150 you get a solid reliable 24/7 caliper. I get the idea of cheap versions and as you said, if your on site, don't risk you best tools.

The thumb wheel on the Mitutoyo is what gave me satisfaction. The HF unit just pissed me off. I'm tired, knees hurt while setting spring compression on a six foot shredder. Every winter I service the slip clutch. The HF thumb wheel was a slip, grab, slip and maybe it would work or not. So, the one thing the Mitutoyo does that brings a nagging question about HF quality are the buttons. They wobble a lot and have to make sure to press firmly to change settings. Wearing nitrile or other thin glove while working and taking measurement makes me ask will the buttons hold up? Only had it for a year so time will tell. TY for the comparison of the two. As a HF fan boy, I would not recommend their calipers, and a few other tools that I have or plan on gifting!

I have a cheap one that I bought because it also does fractions, which is useful when trying to put the drill bits I’ve taken out back. They can be hard to read if they’re small or the numbers are rubbed off from use because bit manufacturers insist in putting the info where the chuck grips rather than the area above that, below the flutes. Anyway. The unit has been working well for three years. The battery lasts a year, or so, and they give an extra. All good. Now the problem is that it’s consistently off be 0.002” to the plus side every time and I can’t adjust it. My others are all Brown and Sharpe, which I’m fond of. But really, never use calipers when you need accuracy. For example,e, Mititoyo claims plus or minus 0.0015” for most models. Buy one for $350 and up from them and it’s plus or minus 0.0012”. Everyone else is about the same. But you make get one that’s better than the rated accuracy. Use a micrometer if accuracy is needed.

@TimWelds

3 ай бұрын

I agree, a mic is the definitely the way to go when you need to be accurate.

If you use them for a living then Mitutoyo is the way to go. The IP 67 coolant proof 6" with the depth rod instead of the flat depth stick is the best Mitutoyo I've tried.

I have a pair of General calipers I have been using for the last few years. They look a lot like the Pittsburg ones. I have never changed the battery but I only use them a few times a week. Recently, the Zero button stopped working so I have to turn them on and then off to zero. This is annoying, but I am not sure I ready to replace them just yet.

If you're doing serious precision machining, quality (consistent over time) matters. I have a used dial Mitutoyo, and a Starrett vernier (was my Dad's) but for the kind of stuff I normally do the Pittsburgh has been fully adequate. I get a couple of years out of a batter (I by 357 cells by the pack, because some many products use them). When you buy 357 type cells be SURE to get the silver version NOT the lithium. Costs a bit more but more long lasting and much better voltage consistency.

As others have mentioned, I also have been using the Neiko for a few years and the included batteries were both junk. Replacement quality batteries has made them last, well that battery hasn't died yet.

FYI, Amazon commingles all it's inventory, so it doesn't matter which seller you pick. You may still get a counterfeit, even if you buy from "Amazon" or "Mitutoyo".

The red branded one, i got it. Have it a few years now but if i use it 10 times thats alot. Gud to knw i can continue with it

I just bought another Mitutoyo 150mm. I also have some cheapish digitals, which also aren't bad. Just stay away from the bargain basement vernier which can be rough ground from soft steel. It's hard to tell awful stuff from good by internet photos. I'd only buy cheap if I have a chance to handle it prior to purchase.

pretty good video, i like the objective numbers

I know that might dial calipers lack the memory and zero reset function of the digital calipers, but mine are 30+ years old and have yet to be disabled by a dead battery. And I haven’t bought the tool a couple times over in battery costs. Yes, it takes a couple seconds longer to read, but if you use them regularly the read time difference is minor.

Good video. I like having a nice set for when I need them, and 4 or 5 sacrificial cheap ones that I have in various places. Also, @clough42 has a good video on how to identify counterfeit Mitutoyo calipers.

@1pcfred

3 ай бұрын

If you don't buy Mitutoyo calipers off an authorized dealer they're probably fakes. If you got a great deal on them then they're definitely fakes. If the battery doesn't last at least 5 years they're fakes.

The Mitutoyo digitals I got in the mid 90s are still going strong. But then, the Mitutoyo Vernier's I got in 1980 are just as accurate and have never needed a battery replaced.

If you want accuracy, use a micrometer. This coming from a guy with Mitutoyu, Starrett, Tesa Brown and Sharpe tools measuring up to 6 foot diameter. My "go to" vernier is one with a mechanical dial because the battery is never dead and I only use a vernier to get things close.

One thing to be careful of is buying knockoffs. If you see high-end brands selling at about half retail, rest assured they are knockoffs. The internals are the exact same unit used in all the cheap calipers, so they're charging $70 or so for $20 calipers with a somewhat better case and box. James has an episode covering this in detail on his Clough42 channel, uplaoded Aug 2022.

I use a 6" and a 12" Mitutoyo Dial Calipers. My buddy was looking for batteries for his digital mitutoyo. I looked at him and said " I told ya!"

very important, you forgot to measure with the inside caliper, dept caliper and with the head of the caliuper ( dont know how you call the last one. cheers ben

The cheap ones don't actually turn off - it's more of a stand-by mode that is constantly checking if the calipers have been opened so that it can automatically turn the screen back on. I take the battery out before storing them so that it still works when I actually need it.

I got the Igauge calipers which are way smoother and more accurate than the cheap ones. They do go through batteries quicker than Mitutoyos but for $35 I’m pretty happy.

I'm a believer in buying the cheapest version of any new tool and then finding out how much I really use something. If I use it a lot and the tool breaks, then I'll go by the best one I can find, no half measures (lol). If it doesn't break but does the job, I saved some money. I have a beautiful collection snap-ons, mixed with Harbor freight tools, but they all work great. I keep my cheap calipers in their box, battery removed, I've had them for many years, still work perfectly.

I have a set of Mitutoyos which I think are the best of all worlds, they have a dial on them instead of an LCD. This sounds crazy but there's no battery and no messing about with little buttons, so they are still available today. I used to have a cheap digital set. They went insane like yours did

@Bob_Adkins

3 ай бұрын

I have a Mitutoyo analog too, but that pesky gear rack has to be cleaned constantly. And the large crystal is very delicate, and has cracks from normal mishaps, which isn't a problem with the digitals.

I think having 2 sets of digital calipers is best. I have my Mitutoyos & I got some husky brand calipers from Home Depot for $20. So I have my nice ones & ones that I can beat the crap out of if I’m working with something that’s not ideal for a precision instrument. The Husky ones aren’t bad though, one feature I really like is it’ll show inches as a fraction or a decimal so that’s one thing my cheap ones have that the Mitutoyos don’t.

I have the same setup. I have the good ones available, but keep a cheap pair on my desk all of the time.

I gave up on the digital calipers. Every time I went to use it I had to change the battery. Probably because I would use it infrequently. I went with an analog caliper instead. Good enough for what I need it for.

I have a set of Craftsman vernier calipers from West Germany that were my Dad's 👍

i keep battery out of my cheep calipers but my Mitutoyo last for 2 years. and work good for over 20 years

That's a very smart video

I've always used Mitutoyo. I figure if I need something to be precisely measured enough that I use a caliper, I wanna use as accurate of a caliper as I can afford. There used to be a few Facebook groups that were all about calipers. Caliper nerds

If you want a valid comparison, do an R&R on both and observe results. That way you can introduce user error for a better comparison. I ran a metrology & test lab for 15 years, and I always ordered Mitutoyo for non abusive environments and off brand for abusive areas. No need to spend money replacing a Mitutoyo when a cheap brand is available to be abused. Just keep a record of the R&R if anyone inquires about accuracy & stability of your measurement system. If they last long enough, always perform calibration verification once a year, month or even once a week as necessary to ensure validity of measurements.

I only have the cheaper versions, I have 3 different ones actually, they are not all the same when it comes to draining their battery or their functions though. One of them doesn't drain it's battery and it's display comes on just by opening the jaws, no need to press the on button first.

Repeatability is totally accurate with Mitutoyo and I don't have to reset the zero every time. 😊

I got fed a Horrid Fate ad before this. If you dont like batteries get a dial. (my eyes are WAY too shot for vernier!) The cheap plastic HF calipers dont kill the battery and if im not machining a rotovator confabulater i dont care that they are t going to give me to 1/10ths

I'd go with Starrett dial type

I bought a cheap pair of TackLife which were just janky. I gave them a bad review and they sent me a better pair. I use that one when I need something fairly precise. It lives above my worktable. At my woodworking workbench I use a set of venier calipers. They are plenty precise for what I need.

I have that neiko one, battery does die even when not on,

$2.99 Temu Calipers for the win!

@TimWelds

3 ай бұрын

I just looked it up, their cheapest pair is $0.26...they look pretty cheap, probably worth spending $2.99 for the upgraded ones.

For the LONGEST time Mitutoyo was the "Gold" standard and in many cases it still is when ULTRA precision matters. But let's be honest, how many of us are doing that? Do you REALLY care about .003 ~ .005 tolerance variation? Making a REALLY GOOD digital calipers is no longer rocket science, unless your work deal with ULTRA precision, you probably don't need a Mitutoyo. The *MOST* important feature of a Digital Caliper is "auto off" function. This one will save your life.

I bought a cheap dial caliper from Harbor freight because I'm anti battery whenever possible. Just seems like the batteries are always dead. It didn't last long.

The cheapos (from HF) tend to run down batteries, which then leak and ruin the tool. I learned they will turn themselves on if moved at all. I used to remove the battery after each use. I now store them with case open, and glance at them often. I probably use dial calipers more often, and have my verier calipers in reserve.

Clean the glass scale on your old set with Q-tip & rubbing alcohol.. Should take care of it...

As far as I am concerned all digital calipers that run on a battery are trash. My Mitutoyo dial calipers and others are more reliable, just as accurate, and you will never find one nonoperational in the box with a dead battery. A shop I worked in had a digital caliper that most every time you went to use it it was dead and if you didn't have a spare battery you were dead in the water. I have a Mitutoyo that I purchased back in the early 70's. It still works today as good as it when it was new. Can't say the same for the foam lining in the case which I had to rip out years ago but you can't have everything. If you can't read a dial on a caliper how are you going to read a dial on anything else and all of those 4 digit digital readouts the last digit isn't worth much anyway.

There is only one version of the Mitutoyo that's worthwhile, I've had mine for over 20 years. AND.... that is the solar powered version. I've never had to change a battery ever. TBH I also have a Chinese native brand, bought to check tooling in China it was one tenth the price. It's better quality and more accurate than the Mitutoyo when temperature affects measurements, but it chews through batteries, so not all that enjoyable to use.

Strangely I own the exact same brands you do: Neiko, Vinca, and Mitutoyo. I own the longer Vinca calipers for bigger measurements. As you will learn, the Neiko are total junk. I am sorry you bought them. My display is partially broken and the battery is always dead. The battery door likes to come off. The Vinca's I use when I need longer measurements but seem to hold up better. And of course, the Mitutoyo calipers are the best. Sometimes I even scribe with them but when i do i die a little. :D

I prefer a dial caliper. No batteries and much easier to use than a vernier.

Low probability that this is helpful, but you might check the battery contacts for traces of corrosion on your old cheap calipers. Cleaning those contacts might just fix it. Of course if that sensor track is worn, then...never mind.

Iv noticed the cheaper ones the battery goes dead even if not use for 6 months..the other ones battery doesn't die..something to think about..after use have to take battery out or it will die on u when need to use again..that happens 100% of the time..even with the carbon fiber plastic ones

You never measure centers of 2 holes if you have to estimate them. You use the front edges of those holes. It's the same distance as center to center.

I have a sort of expensive German Caliper and 5 or six cheap ones the German one will last for ever since I never use it, scared I may damage it.

Just by testing a 6” caliper at .1”. 3” and 6” agaist a standard should be all you need to ascertain its accuracy.

The Neiko needs the screws on the slide adjusted.

Your Neiko was probably a return, I bought that exact one and it came with a plastic tab you had to pull out to engage the battery for first time usage

You showed the problem with cheap calipers early in the video. They eat batteries. When you want them to work they're dead. I don't know what kind of deal with the Devil Mitutoyo struck but battery life is darn near shelf life of the cell. The cheap calipers I have I'm in the habit of removing the batteries now when I'm not using them.

I've had the HF 6 inch digital for about 6 years and haven't had any problems. I've had to replace the battery 3 or 4 times but I can buy a lot of batteries for 120$

@1pcfred

3 ай бұрын

You're going to have to buy a lot of batteries. I have two different caliper models from Harbor Freight. The silver ones and the black ones. The black ones are way better.

@cbmech2563

3 ай бұрын

@@1pcfred in 6 years I've replaced the battery 3 or 4 times. Compared to 140$, I'll deal with it. And the display is stable.

@1pcfred

3 ай бұрын

@@cbmech2563 How often do you have to zero it out? I have to zero my Mitutoyos every time I change the battery in them. But that's it. I don't even check them anymore. They're always zeroed. I do it so infrequently I actually have to look up how to do it. Because I forget. The cheap ones I check them every time I use them. Because they're not always zeroed. Well, I don't even keep a cheap pair with a battery in it anymore. The one cheap pair always loses zero. The other kinda holds it. It's supposed to. Doesn't always. I just checked zero on the Mitus, dead nuts. It never varies. I don't even bother anymore.

Cheap calipers are ok if you have a reference block and check them regularly. But just throw the damn things away when they start to get shitty, because they will, eventually. There isn't enough moisture sealing and the circuit boards start to get flaky which makes the readings erratic.

The harbor freight Pittsburg work accurately for about a year then start showing reliability issues

I don't think you should use calipers (digital, dial, vernier) for accuracy of more that .1mm or 4 thousands of an inch.

i have a husky caliper, it's about as good as i would expect for the use it gets. I'm not exactly easy on it... I've left it out of it's case now for a few weeks for... god knows what reason, as i try to remember to clean up the garage... again. but they aren't as accurate as I would like, but that could be because I'm not using them correctly, don't actually understand how they work, or some other issue with just being a generalized moron when it comes to some of these things. they work for the purpose of "finding the distance of these 2 holes i need to drill to mount this thing" and that's about it they get used for. I like them but again, they feel cheep, with the resolution of a ocean freighter. so idk.

Mine went bad over Winter in a garage wouldnt have happened if i put them in a thick plastic bag

Biggest advantage of Mitutoyo : when they are off, they are off. Batteries don’t drain.

Mitutoyo is for sure not worth it for the random diy Jimmy.. I would say for most others its still not worth it, but if you are a Huge production place, where this kind of money is nothing, why not get them. If nothing else, it will scream Pro production place for people looking from the outside. It will never help the worker itself, thats for sure. The absolute function isnt Mitutoyo only, many cheap amazon Calipers has this aswell.. I got one from Amazon UK a good time before brexit, a 300mm version with absolute function, it feels super nice, and i can open it hard and close it hard, and its never off.. I changed the battery i think 4 times, so they for sure eat more power in idle mode then the Mitutoyo, but how much is a battery ? i payed like 25 euro for the 300mm Calipers, i dont use them every day, but like 4-5 days a week i guess.. how much is 300mm Mitutoyo ? ;) I am from Denmark, sorry for my bad English. :D EDIT: So sorry, i didnt mean 300mm, i ment 200mm.. SORRY..

More measurement techniques, of course. :)

As user of cheap tool over two decades, worst part of cheap calibers is repeatebility, measure and you got different result every time. If doing precise work its annoying. And there is diffence between cheap ones, others are ok, others are better. And someday even 0,1mm precise plastic one has its place (measuring magnetic parts or probably electricity in parts)

Another argument for cheap calipers - I travel with mine in car i want to do some designing on the road. I'm forgetful and it would break my heart to lose a $200 set

The money is in longevity and build quality, how much abuse they can take before failing.

Constructive feedback: keep your mic out of your breath. You are thumping my subwoofer pretty good in this one.

Dial calipers. No batteries needed, easier on the eyes than vernier

Cheap are good enough for me ant what im doing

blink

It is truly amazing what can be accomplished with slave labor. Not gonna lie.