Would be nice to see you bring out your bow collection and do a quick 1-2 minute proforma on each. Also, recommended premium bows and accessories.

As with anything, use the best you can afford, it makes the learning process so much easier.

Sounds an awful lot like a conversation about guitars!

@ragnkja

6 жыл бұрын

Trillia750 Or any kind of musical instrument, really. There is an argument against buying a cheap instrument as a “low-risk” choice, however: a higher quality instrument will retain its value should you want to sell it.

@ragnkja

6 жыл бұрын

By "a decent instrument" I generally mean a medium price instrument. There's usually no need to buy the best of the best, but you don't want the cheapest ones either.

@MJFAN666

6 жыл бұрын

Or cameras or anything

@ryanmoulden5440

5 жыл бұрын

Or shotguns/rifles lol.

@afhostie

3 жыл бұрын

@@ragnkja As long as you're not buying one of those plastic trombones you're probably doing alright lol

I just love how the limbs transition to the riser on the Bear Takedown.

@NUSensei

7 жыл бұрын

Well, that escalated quickly.

@nauqsin4155

7 жыл бұрын

NUSensei Lol just saying it looks beautiful in my opinion. 😊

This reminds me a lot of skateboards. People think that starting off with a premade board from walmart will give them a good entry point into the sport, but in reality they are horrible and will give them a terrible representation of the sport.

@ragnkja

6 жыл бұрын

Luka Or low-quality musical instruments. The feel of playing a decent-quality instrument is vastly superior to that of playing a cheap, low-quality one.

@drawstraw4483

5 жыл бұрын

This is late, but damn true!

@Mikey-ym6ok

Жыл бұрын

It’s a shame too. Going with the cheapest product to gauge wether they’ll they like it or not is just so wrong. It’ll end up deterring them from a certain skill, activity or sport or whatever.

I just purchased the OMP Adventure 34# to get started. I have a bad shoulder and some Carpal Tunnel, plus Trigger Fingers, so I wasn't entirely sure how it would work out, but I feel after a few days I could pull a heavier bow, but I plan to use this for a while to work on technique and accuracy before I even think of deciding whether to get a heavier draw weight hunting bow or simply using this Adventure bow for recreational target shooting. Your videos are helping me get started, and I really do appreciate it. Thanks.

My first bow was used set of Hoyt Matrix recurve riser, Win&Win WinAct limbs, Beiter plunger and stabilizer, Shibuya Dual Click sight, Easton ACG arrows (which are excellent arrows and perhaps the best value I know of), Aurora backpack and all kinds of tools and what not. I got that for 500€ which was pretty good price IMO. I just had to buy a quiver and a finger tab (there was one in the set, but I didn't like it), and I also bought Jäger's grip for the riser. I have since sold almost everything in that set except the backpack, which I'm still using, when I moved up to better bow. I got from them almost what I paid, and I still have the backpack and the sight as a backup. This way of bow progression worked fine for me.

Been shooting for a month and a half. After trying out the basic training bow and borrowing a few other ones from the club, I straight away bought Gillo G1 and I am in love. I now own a fantastic and reliable tool (which can last me a lifetime) and work on my technique. The bows are functionally the same, but honestly, its a world of difference in comparison to the training bow.

As the president of my archery club, I made the decision 6 years ago to get all ILF metal risers and limbs (Olympic risers) for my archery classes (except for the 7-10 years old). Never looked back, we are head and shoulders above al other clubs in Quebec for people attending archery classes and enrollment to the club once the beginner classes are complete. In fact, we have a 3 to 1 ratio in demand for Olympic kits over any other style this year... So I concur.

hei nu the second bow is oak ridge viridian take down is my bow i buy it with 35 lbs and i m a beginer thanks for you r advices it helped me a loot and my archery skill really improved and please keep doing the good work

I will have to disagree the bear takedown is indeed a level 100 legendary bow! I'm wating for your review of it

Thanks for shedding light on this particular subject NUSensei. Now I feel more confident on purchasing the right bow for I and not just a bow. Love your other videos as well, lots of helpful information. A+

Awesome video, and when will we see the bear takedown review.

I started out with the Spyder. I prefer a take-down for Hiking reasons and I can use it for hunting (after I go higher on limbs - at 35 bs now). I have no interest in competition so the Spyder will work for my purposes quite well, I believe.

Bought a Barebow (200€) three years ago, still shooting it. Only changed limbs (indoor 26# 18m, outside 32# 70m) regarding where I shoot.

My thoughts exactly David

I recently came across an old compound bow I have very little knowledge of archery and bows in general should it be used or should I have it checked out? I know it definitely needs a new string but other than that it works fine I've fired it a couple times.

My club recommended that I get a traditional recurve like the PSE Razorback, and learn to work with sights..etc, but I kind of don't see the point if I may want to progress in a year or so? I was considering getting the Mybo wave or even the axiom light just to get a feel for it, though I'm kind of in that am I even good enough mindset, where I'm not really sure. Any thoughts?

I started with my rec center's bare compound bow (which was way too small for, what I now know to be 33" draw) and one thing I noticed was a lot of archery advice is focused around either target recurve or hunting compound, which at times clash with barebow. Eventually I was able to shoot a few hunting compound bows, which are nice, but way too expensive at my draw length. Therefore, my first bow ended up being an ILF bow I put together (mainly SF Axiom) and I immediately started shooting with a sight (jumped straight to a Shibuya Ultima) then added a stabilizer a couple weeks later. Having a setup I know isn't going to change allows for me to focus on consistency and form vs back when I was using the center's bows and pondering possibly progressing through various undersized compound bows.

@mortenjacobsen5673

7 жыл бұрын

consider a target compound with a long axle to axle and a back tension release .

When I first really started researching takedown bows literally everyone was buying the Sammick sage as theirfirst bow. I couldnt stand the idea of how kandatory it almost seemed. Plus as a left handed shooter there arent really ANY "beginner" takedown recurve bows. I ended up spending more than the Sammick sage guys and I pieced together my own bot using an aluminum SF Archery riser and limbs, then the arrows etc. I am so happy I did this and spent around $500 for the entire setup as opposed to $250 for a Sammick Sage and cheaper arrows.

Makes sense. Thank you.

My four year old daughter started on a Bear Archery Fiberglass Longbow. She took first at a tournament with it. Then I got her a Diamond Bowtech Atomic Compound. She competed in the BHFS category and took first place. She learned to be accurate with the crappy backyard bow and developed her form. It also helped to prove she wasn't going to let her interest in the sport fade.

Good advice.

Thx for this video, I am currently struggling between recurve and compound... Trainer wants me to learn basics with recurve and switch to compound after half a year.

@franklinbush4969

3 жыл бұрын

A recurve is nice to learn on as it tends to be more forgiving of form errors. You can start with a light poundage recurve bow and practice your form. There is no need for all of the olympic-style accessories such as a stabilizer or clicker if your plan is just to practice form and then go over to the compound. When consistent, you can transition easily to the compound with a well-established form. Having said all that, you could choose to start with a compound just fine, but just be prepared for more challenge when starting out, as form mistakes could result in some frustration due to surprising performance. In that scenario, I would suggest making heavy use of a stretch band/string to practice form followed by some blank bale shooting with the compound as you work on individual form steps.

Nu I actually am debating real hard on this progression in archery. I bought a Samick Sage 1 week ago and have gone to the range everyday since. I'm getting better but I'm still working on perfecting my form for consistency. (My Sage is 35 pound draw weight) I have been shooting from 20 yards and I have the option to progress to 30 yards and 40. Also I have already bought some accessories for my Sage like the super rest, a finger sling, higher quality Carbon Arrows etc but I don't actually know were to go or when to go from where I am now. I love watching your Olympic style shooting but don't know if/ when I should buy say a Sight or a plunger or whatever else can be placed on the Sage because I am also not sure how much I want to invest in a single burst given I'm already at 350+ dollars in the Bow and equipment I actually don't even know would be a good time to increase my range. I've seen all your videos on these topics but I am debating on these things still. Also I think it would be good for you to know I'm going to a range in a park near my house not in a actual club

I agree though, if the bow's level was based on how "cool" it looks like in video games. The bear take down would be a rare item. That gray with the red pin stripe is attractive. However Bear appears to make attractive LV100 bows. Also the color of the riser determines it's special effect. Like elemental effects(Wind is white because clouds are white, water is blue, fire red of course, earth brows wood tones in brown, light is yellow like the sun and and dark is grays and black.). :) LOL I love your video game references. But at the same time, your information is serious and legit. I enjoy your videos.

Put a double nock point (upper and lower) on one of those fiberglass youth bows and pair it with some feather fletched arrows. That's a great 5 to 12 yard beginner bow for young kids to learn how to shoot a bow.

That bear looked strong as hell next to that samick! Samick is great... Admit it..the stance on the bear....bitchin!!

Would you recomend the bearpaw/penthalon mohican over the samick sage or mandarin duck black hunter for a beginner? Im looking at getting one in lefty 35 pound i only draw 27 inches maybe 40 pound is better?

Can you tell me about cnc riser and diecast riser? What does it mean and which one is better? Thanks

Hello NU Sensei! Been watching your videos the last week or so and have just got an OMP Adventure 2.0 with two sets of limbs. I was just curious if you'd ever hunted with your bow? Love your videos, thanks. :)

@NUSensei

5 жыл бұрын

No.

hey nusensei have you ever considered trying compound archery

I like this perspective. I really don't intend to go beyond backyard shooting w.various trad bows from 30 to 50. As IF I were to go hunting but really if I went again I would go rifle. I actually shoot my 30 lb fiberglass super jet the most. This is because I always shoot it fist as a warm up before shooting the heavier ones. I do this as per some of your other advise about warming up 1st before you get serious about it.

@raymondmorad6948

2 жыл бұрын

I also try to remember to pause and consider each arrow as I shoot as per your advice. Thanks for those.

I have a 32inch draw. My old SF Premium+ riser could hardly handle my new 40# limbs. The shock was tremendous. That's the biggest difference between a cheap and expensive riser. Start with cheap beginner gear, best buy it used from a senior shooter at a club. As soon as you are at your desired limb strength, invest. Just make sure your technique stays good.

@GARBAGE3995

7 жыл бұрын

SkyB how many dapeners did you have on the stabilizers because if you have none you'll get lots of shock regardless of the riser.

@sky9897

7 жыл бұрын

James Gaze a total of three

@GARBAGE3995

7 жыл бұрын

SkyB ok. Where were they?

There's also the argument that it's smarter to buy a cheaper one to begin with as you're still learning about maintenance and how to fire it correctly. Would be bad if a beginner got a super expensive bow and then ended up doing stuff like dry firing and then ruining the parts. It's especially true for arrows, and particularly so if you're like me and you practice in a coastal forest area with ground consisting of a thin layer of dirt and then rock underneath.

@AverageAlien

Жыл бұрын

Not necessarily, a low poundage bow made of modern materials will do the trick, a modern fibreglass recurve will survive just about anything

Can anybody tell me the difference between cheap and expensive stabilizers? People keep suggesting me to buy better stabilizers. I am using the cheapest one I could have found.

What is the bit of fluff on the top of the expensive bows string?

@xdivineHART

6 жыл бұрын

elevown it's a bow string silencer

NUSensei I'm curious to know what is your personal favorite recurve?

When first starting out, isn't a sight mostly pointless? In order to properly use a sight your shots need to be consistent enough to properly dial it in, which requires you to learn proper draw, back tension, anchor, etc. before you can effectively use the sight.

@NUSensei

7 жыл бұрын

You can learn all that while using a sight, as long as you don't become distracted by it. The wrong thing to do is to make superficial adjustments to the sight without understanding the cause of the shot. However, learning with a sight from day one (as some clubs will do so) removes a "random" element of the shot process by giving the learner a static reference point. This can give learners confidence in having something to aim with (a common complaint or concern from learners is that they don't know how to aim at the target), allowing them to focus on a good shot. With the sight dialed in correctly (often by the instructor), the learner can isolate the main areas of the shot process. Really, whether you teach someone to shoot with a sight, use a point of aim or guide them towards instinctive, the shot process doesn't change. Someone who is learning will go through the same struggles with draw, back tension and release regardless of which aiming method they use.

@PumpkinsAmongUs

7 жыл бұрын

That makes sense. Thanks!

@Muhamad_Taufiq

7 жыл бұрын

Some of the argument for using sight when first starting out is that the archer can have something to aim with, instead of telling them to see down the arrow or gap in the riser. Because usually no matter how you tell them that aiming is not important at this stage, they will try to aim regardless.

@Fearofthemonster

6 жыл бұрын

You don't want the new starters to shoot the arrow to the sky and potentially put someone in danger.

What kind of bow would be a good option for someone who is interested in just weekend archery as a casual hobby (2-4 hours a week)? Personally, I like the look of one-piece wooden bows, but I'm guessing aesthetics is not what I should be focusing on. If it helps, I used to shoot rifles at the gun range when I lived in the U.S. (not an option here) and I had a Ruger 10/22 rifle [ ruger.com/products/1022Carbine/models.html ] and was planning on purchasing a Tavor TC-21 [ contact-kalia.com/product/tavor-tc-21/ ] after several years. As private ownership of firearms is illegal where I now live, I am looking to move to bows, which is something I haven't done since I was in summer camp as a child.

This will help me in kingdom come deliverance :P

Start with high-end barebow recurve set or mid-end Olympic recurve set? Now that's the dilemma I'm in right now.

What's the RP grind like when you're progressing through the archery tree? And does the British archery tree get a yew longbow?

@NUSensei

7 жыл бұрын

You get stuck on the Archer and you never want to grind Brits again.

@mickles1975

7 жыл бұрын

That is frankly the perfect reply xD

For me it's a cost thing. I'm going to buy a Spyder XL 64" 50lb as my first recurve. I've been finger shooting a Golden Eagle Predator 2 compound bow since 1996. It's a 70lb bow but I can pull it for 2 hours without getting fatigued. Now I would love nothing more than to go to 3 rivers, or Lancaster and get a IFL olympic riser and 66" limbs (I'm over 6'4" with a 31" draw) but I don't want to experiment with recurve archery at a $800- $1,000 cost for something that might get used once or twice a year. So my question is, when do you know that you're ready for the next level? Is it the time you spend on the range, is it the skill you naturally have? When do you start entering competitions? What events should you enter? Can you make a video describing the progression from someone who first picks up a Recurve to entering competitions. Keep in mind I fully understand this video's description of how you don't need to start with a certain bow to move on to the next.

@GARBAGE3995

7 жыл бұрын

First off some words of advice. 1. Do not start with a 50lb recurve, your form will be horrible. Start off at around 30lb 2. A 66" bow is far too short for someone of your draw length. You need a 70" or 72" Olympic recurve otherwise the limbs will stack like crazy.

@GARBAGE3995

7 жыл бұрын

shido151 the way you know when you need a better bow is when you feel as if you could be doing better with a better bow or if you feel as if you have out grown the bow. The only exception to this is if you have an experienced coach who can give you advice on this subject in which talk to them.

@GARBAGE3995

7 жыл бұрын

shido151 you can enter competition whenever you feel ready to. Again though if you have a coach I'd talk to them. The progression however varies wildly from person to person and where you want to go. If you are just doing it for fun then that progression might be quite slow. If you are training to be on a national team for example and you are shooting alot of arrows then that progression will be faster. It basically depends on how much you practice.

@davidmdyer838

6 жыл бұрын

I'm not NUSensei but an experienced archer. If you're that tall and draw that far why not go with 68" limbs? I would go with the longest limbs available at your size to minimize stacking. I doubt there are target archers shooting more than 50# as it is very tiring to shoot over and over, and the less experienced you are the less you hold. Also keep in mind that modern bows have some adjustability on pull. If you get a 50# bow you are actually pulling a lot more since 28" is standard. If NUSensei disagrees with me please listen to him.

I will buy my fist Bow soon and I'm going for a decent Entrylevel-ILF-Bow with an aluminium-riser for around 300€ the whole set incl. arrows, backpack, safety-gear etc. There is nothing like stabilisers, clicker or a sight, but for the first time I think I won't need that to have fun and train good form. And the Bow itself will cost me just around 50 bugs more then the wooden model. So I'll take the better one and this will also lead me to stay at the sport and the training, because hey, I didn't spend that much money for taking dust under my bed!

sensei, may I ask how many twist should I put on a new string? is it on both side (up and down/upper and lower) or just one side? thanks.

@NUSensei

7 жыл бұрын

Twist both sides, but exactly how much isn't important until you get to tuning your bow.

@ervanperdana5011

7 жыл бұрын

Wow, thank you for your fast response. May I ask a bit more... 1. I'm still confused about the direction of the twist. Some said clockwise others said counterclockwise. Which one is the good or right one? 2. And how to set a nocking point on the string using using T bar/T gauge/Bow square? Do you have a tutorial video for this one. I read and saw some tutorial but still confused. Thanks a lot.

@NUSensei

7 жыл бұрын

Twist the string in the direction that your fingers release the string. For nocking point, use the bow square to mark a point around 1/4" above the centreline. That will be a good starting point for the nock. You will need to adjust as you do more tuning.

@ervanperdana5011

7 жыл бұрын

thanks a lot. I'll try to apply your advice tomorrow morning. Thanks.

Hey Nu, I need some help with a decision between bows. I am looking for a more traditional bow and i have a few in mind. The first is a Bear Grizzly. the next is a Bear Super Kodiak. And the last is a Timber Creek Diamondback. It is mainly between the DB and SK. I know that the bear takedown is a phenomenal bow but it is out of my price range. the super Kodiak looks like the same thing except that it is a one piece. I know you just got a Bear takedown so I am asking you. I have been an archery enthusiast for quite a while but this is going to be my first high quality bow. thanks -Willem

@mortenjacobsen5673

7 жыл бұрын

try shooting all them before you decide

@willem8249

7 жыл бұрын

i can't. :( I would love to though

@mortenjacobsen5673

7 жыл бұрын

the db has bamboo and is a newer bow. the grizzly you can probably pick up on the cheap second hand if that helps

I have seen you saying this bow is god vs this is not many times. So, besides vibration and speed, what makes a "good" bow? Maybe a better question would be what does a good bow feel like?

Can you shoot with your left hand?

@goblinish9941

4 жыл бұрын

If you are left handed most archery shops will have bows in right handed and left handed shooting. Some bows are strictly one or the other but most come in both

Do you ever have people who do not shoot or who are very beginners ask and say "wow you're still using a recurve... when will you start using a compound?"? I get this question and I am still only just more than a beginner and it is makes me feel very... sad almost. I love recurve. I do not want to shoot compound. But it is like everyone is thinking that compound is like... the next stage almost

Genuine archery question this time. Nothing to do with this video really but you're the only person I know of who is an archer. When I've seen competition archers shoot an arrow, sometimes I've seen them let the bow swing loosely in their thumb and forefinger after the arrow has been loosed. Why do they do that instead of just holding on to the bow?

@timothym9398

7 жыл бұрын

Some of the time if you're "holding" the bow you run the risk of squeezing the handle as you release which can pull the bow one way or another and throwing the arrow off. If you just let the bow drop out of your hand as you fire it should have as close to perfect consistency of release as possible. I.e. no risk that you might pinch inward with a finger or push your thumb more forward, sometimes you might hold the bow a little tighter or looser than the last shot you took, etc.... It helps decrease the number of possible variables that might cause your shot to be a little bit less consistent and predictable.

@mickles1975

7 жыл бұрын

Thanks :)

@davidw860

7 жыл бұрын

If you are not holding the bow tight, it will actually jump out of your hand forwards. As Tim said, letting it go minimizes any sideways force on the bow and arrow. You want the bow traveling in a straight line so the arrow travels in a straight line. Don't do this without a bow sling (shoelace) or the result can be expensive :-)

I had a 200 dollar takedown bow 26 pound I wanted a bear grizzly but the stores near me only had 45 pound to 55 for left hand so the only reason I bought the 200 dollar bow was to build my form and back muscles for 45 pound and I bought my bear grizzly about 2 weeks ago and it's awesome I live in Melbourne as well I shop from oz hunting and bows and planet archery they have good customer service.

@nauqsin4155

7 жыл бұрын

Angus Ture Nice! I shoot 60# and it is necessary to practice with something a little lighter before you just grab anything around 45#. Just because you can pull it back two or three times doesn't mean you can do a session with it.

@GARBAGE3995

7 жыл бұрын

Angus Ture you should not go straight from a 26lb bow to 45lb. There should be at least two steps in between. General rule of thumb is move up in 4lb increments so you preserve form.

@GARBAGE3995

7 жыл бұрын

Angus Ture also I know both of those stores and I'm not even going to comment on exactly how bad their service is and the complete crap they sell beginner s.

Nice :)

So here's a question. If you can shoot just as well with a Sage, as a Bear take down, why switch at all? What's the draw to buy a more expensive bow if they're both relatively the same and I'm going to shoot relatively the same with both? If they both function the same, and both feel relatively the same when shooting.. What's the point? Looks and bragging rights? Ps. I wasn't able to catch your Live stream yesterday live, but watched it afterwards. You mentioned giving away bows, and that it would be a hassle, and why would someone want one because they already have one. (I don't). I would like a Sage. I'm thinking of getting into Archery, and am trying to learn a lot about it from your videos before going into a store to look around. If it's something you would actually think about doing, I think there are plenty of people out in your community that would love a free level 10 starter bow. ;)

@NUSensei

6 жыл бұрын

Aesthetics and prestige is one factor, like buying a nice sports car. However, the Bear TD does legitimately feel like a better bow in the hand. It's hard to describe without using one. The Sage flings arrows; the Bear TD shoots like a dream. Quality does have a price. As for giveaways, I don't have time to fuss around with organising them and shipping things out. I find it kind of breeds the wrong kind of following; the gimmies that

It's true you don't really see bad reviews for the more expensive ones. Could it be however that there are rarely any people who are willing to express buyer's remorse after throwing down so much money? Incidentally NUsensei, do you have personally find any advantages to using a plastic rest when you already have a clicker?

@mortenjacobsen5673

7 жыл бұрын

Challenge accepted "! send med some gear and i will scrutinize every detail

@GARBAGE3995

7 жыл бұрын

Most really expensive bows have no negative reviews because they are really good that about it. They don't have massive faults, especially not things that most people would pick up. If you gave them to an Olympian they would probably be able to pick them all apart and how they behave and so on but really they are all good bows so they don't get bad reviews. However in some cases high quality stuff does get bad reviews, especially on the compound bow side with the bowtechs for example but also, in recent times at least, the wiawis one wood and foam limbs from win and win had issues with delamination and basically exploding so they weren't exactly well received however in the overwhelming majority of high quality equipment they have very few flaws, it's more like characteristics at that end of the spectrum

@mortenjacobsen5673

7 жыл бұрын

the cheap bows get good rewiewvs because so many novices dont know or have any ground for comparison , blinded by the initial fun of shooting and stil in the honey moon period

@GARBAGE3995

7 жыл бұрын

Morten Jacobsen he didn't talk about cheap bows.

I say introduce new people to the hobby with using bare-bow to let them experience a bit of how historic bows might feel like and the learning-curve required for good marksmanship, then give them a more modern "fancy" bow with one accessory at a time. They'll appreciate the helpfulness of using accessories after using bare-bow for a while. And starting with bare-bow gives them experience in shooting any other kind of bow essentially. From bows hand crafted from wood and twigs, to more craftsman level bows. To appreciate and enjoy the history of archers.

true, the only 'progression' is just poundage, but even with that, you do not need to move up in poundage. My cousins, WHO NEVER EVEN DONE archery, always ask me: 'when will you progress and higher your lbs?' and when i respond, you dont need to, they respond: 'sooo your not progressing?>"

@mortenjacobsen5673

7 жыл бұрын

you need more pound if you can not reach the target at 70 meters

@trinitrotoluene8665

7 жыл бұрын

if you cant hit at 70 meters you need to aim higher :)

@mortenjacobsen5673

7 жыл бұрын

That only work on a minute scale within very small parameters. You can only lift your are a few degrees before you draw length shortens , your alignment goes to shit. and your body compresses towards the spine leaving no room for expansion to take place, The angel of the string and tiller tuning changes. And you can only pivot at the hips a little before your spine starts to curve. these basic facts are surly know by all archers so am guessing your not one as the rules also state that aiming well above the target as well as sky draw is not allowed.

@trinitrotoluene8665

7 жыл бұрын

guess you never did any clout archery...

@mortenjacobsen5673

7 жыл бұрын

where the scoring ring is several feet wide , compared to x ring on a wa face.... clout is designed for range estimation . doing clout shoot in some random field is illegal . Even so if its farmed

I am just a backyard shooter so i am fine with the bow i have.. i dont feel that i need another one..

@Muhamad_Taufiq

7 жыл бұрын

I would say that's very good if you can maintain that. Don't let yourself have a temptation to buy another bow, or else you'll fall down the rabbit hole of archery lol

@AmberPerez92

7 жыл бұрын

yea i am sure i can maintain that lol.. i am happy with the bow i have :) so why should i buy another one? btw i have a Samick Polaris recurve 68 inch and 22 pounds.. i am 1.76 tall and a woman..works fine for me..

@MrOvidiuk

5 жыл бұрын

Your neighbors are agree with you, you don’t need a powerful or a more precise one, they have enough problems to avoid the arrows that you shoot 😀

I ❤️🏹

I think sights are a great example. If you look at your average 50$ - 100$ sight, compared to a 350$ sight there wont be a big difference in accuracy. But then look at the 5$ plastic sights you often see in beginner courses. They often loosen, break and the red dot is very big.

I bought a Yamaha Alpha, 33 lbs, From a Lady.

Lol I have one of those fiberglass bows its at 60 lbs though and its old

I started on genesis compound, then moved to traditional horsebow.......

7:50 Erm... Apparenlty Bear dropped the ball on quality control. There seems to be many people complaining about abysmal quality of the Kodiak takedown: kzread.info/dash/bejne/a2h80LiJotrQirw.html

Jeez, youtube puts their 15 second add only 4 seconds into this...

I can nock easily with a normal 200 dollar bow. but I can't nock easily with a fiber glass bow.

its a funny thing you just need a durable and consistent bow.

Come on Nu, the Bear is much prettier? 😊😊😊😊😊😊😂😂😂😂😂👍👍👍👍👍👍

OK, if you are good with woodworking, you can take a Samick Sage riser, machine it a bit, rounding the edges, then refinish it with a real good varnish, slap a thin felt in the riser pockets, and it will be a high-end bow. Get to work.

i just want a bow that i can use in my backyard

@mortenjacobsen5673

7 жыл бұрын

depends on your yard size as to what range your gonna shoot at on whats in the background and of course budget

@gesman5000

7 жыл бұрын

In your back yard you probably don't need to worry about hitting gold consistently so just get a bare bow any of them will suffice heck if you like you could even go mongol and get a horse bow.

It needs to be said that none of this applies to "horsebows". From the feel of a fiberglass bow compared to a laminated, to the usage of more tender bows not user friendly for beginners. A beginner cannot even reliablely string a bow with thin limbs that twist a lot. Same goes for shooting. Not to mention composite bows. They require a high level of knowledge to care for the bow efficiently.

Yep. It's all about the BENJAMINS.

Lots of good gear being sold by parents who spent a fortune on equipment for kids, because they they were told they needed expensive gear or kids will not like sport.

7 dislike from shop owners 🤪

This video is completely wrong! You have to shoot a water gun first, then a BB gun, then a you progress to firearms.. The same is with golf. Best to master putt putt mini-golf before playing real golf....😉