Nick Adams Always fantastic work. Thank you!!

G'day Nick, I finally received my fets in the mail & mini knipex flush cut plies (Ali express) anyways found 3 blown fets across Channel 1 upon cutting out old fets, the other two feats cleared themselves on my I-Charger 4010 Duo... replaced them all good 😊👍🏼 Thanks heaps mate, "Awesome Videos" helped me out a bunch, both in time & money, Keep up those great instructional/fault finding videos. 👌🏻

@nickadams5411

5 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the feedback. Charge on. Nick

i love these fixing videos, great job

Nice work. Thanks!

Hi Mr.Adams, is it possible to use IRFB4110 Type for the ICharger 4010? i have a bunch of these thank you for your Videos

Hello Nick I have a 4010 duo icharger and were dead. While charging in both chanel was short at the entrance to the charger and after a short turn off. I opened the charger and found that the entrance fuses were burned and the mosfet entry was burned I replaced them but the charger shows no signs of life. And for a short test I saw that the main microprocessor was heating up and after testing I saw that it had a hole in it maybe you know what the chip model is.

Hi Nick, I have an IMAX B6 charger that feels like it gives me some sort of small shock if I wipe my finger across the metal cover. I plugged it into an RCD expecting it to trip but it didn't. Should I be concerned?

@nickadams5411

5 жыл бұрын

Static electricity is common with earthed products, when used with carpet floors, and with some clothes ,especially nylon. If you power it from a 12volt battery, I assume it will not do it.

Hi Nick, Thanks so much for the video. I made the dumb mistake of connecting both channels to different cells in the same battery ;( Late at night of course! The 4010Duo went black(display too) and my power supply went to 20A before I put it in standby. Do you have an idea how this failure manifests on the board? Sounds like perhaps the DC input FET may be shorted and probably one or all FETS. Do you think the damage might be limited to the Power FETS? Or damage to the FET driver circuits too? have you seen result of this mistake? I will dig in tomorrow, have a look around and test the FETS. Thanks for any guidance. Ross

@nickadams5411

5 жыл бұрын

Hi Ross. Check the input fuses (if it has them) and the input FET. And all the other fuses and Fets, as you say. Sometimes the balance Fets can be damaged, but probably not in your case.

@rossr6616

5 жыл бұрын

Thanks again Nick, your guidance was really helpful. Found low resistance at the DC Input, removed two bad FETs in one channel, removed them and re-measured DC input resistance and it went way up, so felt safe powering-up and indeed, the display is back, and the one channel works fine, the other is awaiting new FETs. Also seems the output Fuses in the bad channel measure around 100 Ohms(not open), as opposed to Five Ohms or so for the good channel, so I’ll replace those as well. So relieved as I’ve only owned the 4010 three weeks! Regards, Ross

@nickadams5411

5 жыл бұрын

@@rossr6616 Glad you have it nearly fixed.. Let us know when you get it all working.

what is this part #, didn't pay attention to screw holding together and broke this piece.

@nickadams5411

5 жыл бұрын

Hi John Which part? Send photo to: nick@demonproducts.co.uk

Hey Nick, I had the same thing happen to my charger, was charging a car and it got started, and now 2nd channel. but I can't seem to find a broken mosfet. Any tips as to how to get it going? Same

@nickadams5411

3 жыл бұрын

Hi Nathan. If the other channel works, then there must be a blown part in the other side. Blown Fets normally leave a black mark on the heatsink, or if you look closely at the join between the metal back and plastic front, there is often a small crack. Does yours have the fuses?

Hello Nick, would you happen to have the MFR # for the longer ribbon cable? Thank you!

@nickadams5411

4 жыл бұрын

Hi Rob. Yes you can get it from Farnell. It has the connections on the same side. uk.farnell.com/wurth-elektronik/687626152002/ffc-cable-26pos-152mm-60v-white/dp/2520247?ost=2520247&ddkey=https%3Aen-GB%2FElement14_United_Kingdom%2Fsearch

@robsmith5859

4 жыл бұрын

@@nickadams5411 Thank you so much, Nick!

Hi Nick, I have one Icharger 406 Duo to fix, but I have a doubt, all of FETS are IRF3205? In this board have 11 FETS, I will substitute all of this.

@nickadams5411

6 жыл бұрын

Hi, yes IRF3205 .

@renangea

6 жыл бұрын

Hi, Nick Adams. I changed the 11 Fets, but when I put the battery 1 of them exploded. I believe the driver is burnt too. Did you find out which driver it uses?

Hi, my icharger 4010 knob seems to jump around in the menu when turning it to select anything. The rotation feels smooth but in the menu it is jumping around. Any ideas on how or what needs changing to fix this? Hope you can help.

@nickadams5411

4 жыл бұрын

Hi Craig. Could be a poor contact or the ribbon cable could be not quite located. You can try some contact cleaner sprayed down the shaft of the rotary knob. Otherwise you will have to take apart and carefully re locate the ribbon in the connector under the knob.

@craigbarnes6575

4 жыл бұрын

Nick Adams do you have a video or guide to opening up the icharger safely so I can check this ribbon.

@nickadams5411

4 жыл бұрын

@@craigbarnes6575 Have a look at some of my other videos on icharger repairs. The show the ribbon cable.

I keep on blowing FETs on my 406DUO. It will work for 5 minutes charging then dies again. Do you know what would cause the FETs to keep blowing? Thank you in advance

@nickadams5411

4 жыл бұрын

Hi. The Fets blow if the amps is too high (short circuit on the charge leads), or they get too hot because not heatsinked well to the metal platre. It does semm that they are getting too hot. Are the fans working? And how many amps are you charging? Is it always the same one? And both channels the same?

@norstaroption

4 жыл бұрын

@@nickadams5411 Yes, its blowing the same FETS, main FET and 1st 2 closest to the main. I'm only charging at 6amps for both.

@nickadams5411

4 жыл бұрын

@@norstaroption The only way to blow them is a short circuit. I do not know how that is happening. Sorry.

G'day Nick, You got those Icharger Repairs "Mastered" 👍🏼 I have a Icharger 4010Duo which just stopped working when I connected to a 3S Battery Pack, "Totally Dead" (No Noise, Smoke or Smell) After this fault it Now Seems to cut out my 48V 20A power supply when connecting to it. Any ideas what it could be ? (when I isolate power supply from Charger, power supply starts back up as normal) If I I can't find the fault, can I send it to you for Repairs? Do you live in the States, I'm from Australia

@nickadams5411

5 жыл бұрын

Hi Oze. Check the FET at the top by the input wires, it could be blown. also yours may have fuses next to the input wires that may be blown. Sorry, I am in the UK (still part of EU until we implode). Anyone a bit okay with electronics should be able to check those parts. How's the drought? Bike on. Nick

@oze-bikes4life663

5 жыл бұрын

G'day Nick, ok will do... The Drought hitting a lot of areas pretty hard in many parts of OZ, I'm lucky where I am, it rains fairly regularly here. I'm using my I-Charger to Charge/Balance my DIY E-Bike Build so it will suck not being able to "Ebike at the moment" 😩👎🏼 Thanks heaps for your Time & Knowledge 👍🏼😊.... Keep up the great work with those Icharger fault finding videos. 👌🏻

@oze-bikes4life663

5 жыл бұрын

Hi Nick, Disassembled my Icharger 4010Duo (All fuses tested ok 👍🏼 All Balancing FET tested ok 👍🏼 No obvious signs of heat damage to be found anywhere) I did find 5x FETs on Channel 1 (basically all the Fets on Channel 1 shorted) they are shorted between the "outer & middle legs" ..... if the Fets are all shorted on channel 1 would that account for Totally dead I-Charger 4010duo ?? How did you seperate the faulty feats from board ? (Did you use some "small flush cut" side cutters ?) my standard side cutters just can't get access to the legs.

@nickadams5411

5 жыл бұрын

@@oze-bikes4life663 Hi. Yes You need some small flush side cutters. Leave the legs of the blown Fets on the circuit board. Then carefully bend the new ones slightly away from the plastic body, so as not to fracture them. (make sure you bend them the right direction, so the heatsink is uppermost). Then cut the legs flush with the plastic face, so that the FET will lay flatv against the circuit board. slide the legs against the ones still sticking up. Adjust the fit so they all touch. Then carefully solder the three legs to each other. Keep the Fet pressed down flush. Check the legs are well soldered and not shorting together. Check the metal face of the fets are nice and even, so that they all press equally on the heatsink, when fitted. Remember to fit the insulating material (blue) between Fets and heatsink. Note: You can do a quick test, at a low current (1 amp) without the heatsink fitted, to check it is all working. Note: The ribbon cable connecting the display, is easily damaged, so check the ends are not coming apart. Also the clamping part for the ribbon cable is very fiddly, and can be broken. Make sure the ribbon is in nice and square. If you damage the ribbon, you can buy a longer replacement. Good luck. Nick

@oze-bikes4life663

5 жыл бұрын

Ok will do, so if all the "Fets on channel 1 are shorted" would that potentially render the charger dead ?(not even turning on) or am I missing something in my fault finding??

I have an icharger 4010 that has a high temp error of over 100 degrees and won't charge. Using my thermo camera there is a voltage reference chip (1403B PYJJ) just on top of the large square chip on front side of the circuit board that is getting extremely hot. The mosfets seem ok. I measured the voltage on the reference chip and get an input of 12 volts (power supply voltage) and an output of 2.5 volts which is consistent with the data sheet. Somethings unit won't come on with power supply set to 12v with 2 amp limit (voltage Boggs down at about 5 volts). Any ideas? Are you interested in working on it if I Mail it too you (as you seem to have a repair business) ? Thanks.

@nickadams5411

3 жыл бұрын

Hi the 4010 temperature fault is very common. Replacing the chip may fix it, but some of the faults refuse to go away, and seem to be in the control chip. I no longer do repairs due to poor health. Sorry. Nick

@yancymuu4977

3 жыл бұрын

@@nickadams5411 thanks for input. I have ordered new ic's from China, and will try to replace when they come. I will post the results (will take a month or two). Note the problem started after I performed a 70 Amp synchronous charge and then got sparking on channel two when I was connecting a load resistor preparing for an asynchronous discharge. I measured 40 volts across channel two without any operation in process! I am wondering if I can get it repaired or if I get a new one weather synchronous operation is not recommended. Any thoughts? Thanks again for your great repair videos.

@nickadams5411

3 жыл бұрын

@@yancymuu4977 Hi. The problem with these chargers is that it is not always clear that the operation has stopped and all outputs are disconnected. Often the user just presses stop and pulls out all the wires. If they touch they may still be in a pause mode. I always check by pressing stop until the display returns to all default readings. Also , operating at absolute maximum charge (70amps) and internal discharge, eventually destroys the capacitors. I know it has temperature and other safety features, but some settings are too much. The later models with fuses on the channels are much more reliable, as they redesigned much of the circuit etc.

@yancymuu4977

3 жыл бұрын

FYI I posted a short video showing thermal pictures. kzread.info/dash/bejne/nHuF07CwmpS8ac4.html

@nickadams5411

3 жыл бұрын

@@yancymuu4977 okay, keep me updated