Well i know this is a 2 and a half year old video but i got here looking for a solution to my issue. first of congrats on your fix man. i know the feeling when you find the fix to anything that got damaged especially with electronics.

Awesome video. I am sure that my microchip is fried. I was thinking about buying a new board but you've convinced me to try and repair the one that I have. I am not confident with soldering as you are so I might outsource that. But it should still be cheaper than buying a new mainboard. I am glad to see that you got your printer up and running. I hate when mine is down.

I have some of that Artic Epoxy ... great stuff. Have also noticed that the free-sliding bed will power on the printer briefly. Thought that I had bricked my board this week after trying to flash some improvements, like Linear Advance, and PIDTEMPBED in Synet232. Maybe the .hex was too big. Was not really bricked, and was able to load in the firmware with avrdude through the ISP. Have never been able to get straight Marlin to work right. Would like to move the PSU, board, and display (maybe one with a rotary encoder) off the printer entirely.

Nice job! I was lookin to increase the Vref for the extruder motor driver. Seems like there's only 1 pot screw-adjuster near the Z. Do you know if this adjusts just the Z or all 4 steppers?

Great work, my friend! My Hictop board had a bad extruder driver right out of the box, so I changed the firmware to use the other extruder driver. I may go back and replace the drive chip and see if I can get it going again. Then again, I might just buy a 32-bit replacement board ;-)

@JunctionRunner

4 жыл бұрын

Yeah, the SKR 1.3 was out of stock when I did this but honestly it's definitely more worthwhile to upgrade the printer, even if it's a hassle, since 32 bit unlocks lots of nice features.

I think the mosfets for the hot end and bed are dead on mine. Goes to Def and no info. Brand new hot end so not that. Just can't seem to set the temperature. Could I pull the mosfets from one of the stepper motors that are working. I no longer use this for a printer, I converted it to a PET bottle filament maker but the temp is getting to high to reliably do it.

Nice to see they eventually got around to putting a fuse on those boards! At 17:50 lol

Du you have a link to the Stepper Driver Replacement?

so why was broken the board? i have mine just arrived and doesnt work fine, in small areas for printting is VEEEEERY slow,

Hey! Thanks so much for posting this. I need to replace the driver on my board. Even with the picture, I'm having a lot of trouble finding the specific driver. Didn't see it in the description or any of the comments. If you don't mind, what's the model number for the driver or do you have a Digikey link for it?

There is actually a tiny blob of solder between the last two pins of this CPU! whether it is contactng BOTH pins is an other matter

hey, i treid to swap the micro but after swapping it for a brandnew, whe i try to flash it via usbasp i get alwayas the error "target dosesnt answer" what am i doing wrong? did i fry the micro?

Hi, do you know specs of F4 fuse, it burned on my board? (I am not even sure if it's fuse).

what are the drivers you ordered

what are the stepper drivers for type on this board ?

@test-kz2iq

3 ай бұрын

I want to know the same thing too.

yeah... i was fighting with same problem. The Y stepper motor driver burned out or whatever. But i replaced the whole motherboard. It was at least same procedure to relife the whole complex like solder one new controller on the board. maybe some day :D

I just bought Anet A8 Plus and have the same problem of motor driver at Y-axis bro. Is it because of low quality hardware?

sorry this maybe a stupid question but i own a very old version of anet A8 which use the 1.0 anet board, can i just get a new 1.7board like this and replace the old one ? I mean will it just plug and play or do i need to adjust things ?

@JunctionRunner

4 жыл бұрын

It should be a drop in part.

@KaboomtheMaker

4 жыл бұрын

@@JunctionRunner thanks !

12:53 yep yep yep, that's the epitome of an eureka moment haha

You could have got an upgraded board from the USA with better stepper drivers with less hassle for a similar cost. Many of the Chinese vendors also warehouse in the USA, sometimes for a slightly higher price, but not always. Try Aliexpress and specify a US based warehouse when searching. Better stepper drivers that are designed specifically for 3D printers also have some protection from the original issue of back feeding power into the board, and run much quieter.

As I understand it, you pulled the bed forward, this created a voltage on the stepper Driver and burned it, now the only thing really needed replacement was actually the driver chip of the bed?

@JunctionRunner

3 жыл бұрын

Yup, it might be different in other cases, but that's all that was wrong with this.

Is that the motherboard that came with yours? Did you add the power connectors?

@JunctionRunner

11 ай бұрын

That is the one that shipped with my printer, I didn't modify it at all, from what I understand there are 3 main revisions of it with differing connectors.

y axis stepper motor is getting very hot what can i do

8:49 Solder bridge between pins FAN and MOSI. Luckily those don't short out.

@JunctionRunner

4 жыл бұрын

I fixed that but didn't keep that bit in the footage.

Great video man I thought about doing it mine arrived when I ordered printer so I ordered just a board from amazon and sent the one that came with my printer back

@aletius

4 жыл бұрын

Are the boards that come with this printer bad?

Great job fixing your board. Wouldn't it have been easier and cheaper to upgrade the board to a SKR 1.3 with tmc2208 or 2209 drivers? If u bought from Amazon, it only takes 2 - 3 days to arrive. Also, a suggestion about your video, u need better camera with auto focus.

@JunctionRunner

4 жыл бұрын

I actually have an skr 1.3 now that I'm working on hooking up, I wasn't aware of that board at the time of making this video. Unfortunately amazon here is pretty shitty compared to in the US so two or three days isn't realistic. I'd also love a camera with auto focus, but there's no way I can justify the cost of one.

Why your drivers is so quiet?

@JunctionRunner

4 ай бұрын

Perhaps because I was running marlin and not the stock firmware? I haven't used this board in ages unfortunately so can't say.

@misaver

4 ай бұрын

@@JunctionRunner I was running marlin too, but the drivers are still just a loud

How to install marlin firmware?

@miklosfulop9991

4 жыл бұрын

www.th3dstudio.com/knowledgebase/th3d-unified-firmware-package/?seq_no=4 its the best video how can flash a good firmware

Can’t you just go on amazon and order a new board and have it there in 2 days for $32 ish that’s what I did

@JunctionRunner

5 жыл бұрын

Unfortunately I'm in Canada, and the boards all seem to ship from china still, so that would be at least a months wait.

Am I the only one screaming about the solder bridge by pin 43-44 at 7:30? Looks like it might impact fan functionality if I read the pcb labels correctly. I do reflow work all the time. Hilarious to see someone else "go there." OMG you are very liberal with the flux, at least it's no residue type. Funny you can by a pack of 5 driver boards for $9, but one of the smd chips cost $5. Could you just buy driver boards and pull the chips off them? Am I wondering if those are basically just A4988 drivers or some pin compatible variant?

@JunctionRunner

4 жыл бұрын

I caught that bridge before powering the thing up, just ended up cut from the video. Also didn't think of grabbing the driver boards, but being bga chips not sure how well that would work to remove them and buying cheap ones on ebay would take a lot longer to get here.

I would replace the board with a SKR v1.3 and get some tmc2208 drivers, get a new MEAN WELL LRS-350 PSU. there is a SKR Pro 32bit 168Mhz board being released at the end of june. for about $45 and marlin will be supporting the newest tmc2209 drivers. would also switch to 24v PSU as stepper drivers work alot better at 24v vs 12v. can save money using buck converters on fans and thermistor. LM2596 DC-DC Buck Converter Step Down. the main goal is to upgrade to 24v psu and 32bit board and 24v heatbed or a 110v/220v standalone Silicone heatbed with controller. I would just unsolder that connector on bed get a silicone heater and a mosfet

@JunctionRunner

5 жыл бұрын

I have a mean well power supply on the way, unfortunately two actually as I ordered a 12v 30a one, but then the printer ended up being 24v. A board upgrade is definitely in mind in the future but for now marlin and octoprint is letting me use a bltouch with the sd card disabled.