What a great video! I think that you're spot on that the fashion industry shouldn't emulate to be like the art industry, as much as it is trying to be. The closest thing I can think of fashion trying to imitate the art industry is The Met gala, with the yearly themes, historical costumes and garments exhibited in the museum and selected invitations to the upper class of the fashion and entertainment industry. Also the problem the designer/creative designer being the singular chief visionary and responsible for a collection, concept and aesthetic, is a problem, because fashion is such a collaborative and communal process. No one person can be responsible for everything. The whole thing reminds me of auteur theory in film studies, which basically means that the director of a film who has a distinct artistic style and vision of filmmaking is the sole visionary of the film and is treated like an author or sole artist of film. You could say that may be true for directors who are also writers, because the story comes from them, but filmmaking, just like fashion, is a collaborative process and there are many hands involved in that process. I can relate to you (because I also went to fashion school), when you mention that you were taught to the next great [insert fashion designer], and be the a visionary. I can see it to extent why they taught us that way because, when you start for the first few years, you're going to work alone and everything from concept to collection is on you, even if you have some seamstresses. But I don't think that kind of approach is helpful, especially in South Africa with the struggling textile industry and underpaid workers in the fashion and textile industry, not to mention the Covid-19 pandemic, unemployment rate, inflation, climate crisis, etc. Individualism isn't going to help South Africa to be a global change maker in the fashion world, because its a very capitalistic approach in my opinion. We need to approach fashion in the spirit of Ubuntuism and communal approach, because not only will it help with the economic and climate crisis in our part of the world, but really help in keeping our African heritage in the process. Sorry for long rambling essay

@Khensani

Жыл бұрын

Please, I love long text! Keep it coming. Auteur theory is such a great way to summarise this, thank you! Thing is, there isn't a necessity to go it alone outside of this entrepreneur/single business person mindset we're taught. Like any fashion business is the sum of many parts and actually what we're not learning is how to come up with an idea good enough for lots of people to believe in (beyond just buying the product but actually be willing to put in labour and skill and time) so that you don't have to be a one-man sewist/illustrator/product photographer/marketer/operations officer/etc/etc.

Wow! As someone who has always been creative and drawing clothes, being inspired by my life and experiences from Scandinavia as well as West-Africa, I am so glad I found and watched this video! In my consideration of learning new indigenous skills in exchange for physical work as well as online promotion, I was wondering how to share designs without feeling snubbed or missing out on an opportunity to blow up as a designer and profit. "What if someone takes my design and profits without me?" I'd feel used and abused to a degree. Genuinely agree with you that it is so important to remember that this is a community effort. From the plants that were once planted, harvested and turned into yearns that I'll be weaving with and eventually having it turned into a garment. This is a process I'd rather do with passionate people and reap the rewards of together. I think in this modern world we really have missed out on an integral aspect of our human nature, which is community or even that tribal unity that we once had. I think this is a reason why we seek recognition and celebration which society paints "wealth and fame" as the ultimate state for satisfying this crave. I think being able to support a local business or group of people or even town will feel more satisfying and rewarding than having lots of money and being more sheltered and alone in a business oriented lifestyle. Not to say that you can't be wealthy and business oriented and also be social and make a positive difference.

I think you're absolutely right, but also think people simply do not want to let go of hyper-consumerism. It's why I get so discouraged sometimes when I finish making something only to open Tiktok and see people praising Shein 😭 I honestly don't think we can approach what you're talking about until the supply-chain is disrupted and we're all forced to make our own clothes again or at least to consume less. But who knows? Maybe that's right around the corner due to climate change

@Khensani

Жыл бұрын

Yes! We need to completely overhaul our own thinking and also the way things are operating. I love the idea of people making their own clothes again - or at least production becoming very localised and community-specific but that's the other thing - most people do not have that kind of time anymore. Like even the ability to mend your own clothes is a lot when we're all grinding ourselves to dust during 80 hour work weeks.

@nanasrealm

Жыл бұрын

@@Khensani Yup and that's why I don't think it will be a thing until we are all literally forced to by not having access anymore. Not many will choose to do so if they don't have to, in addition to now factoring in the time it takes to learn. The capitalists were strategic when they removed subjects like sewing from schools bc now many ppl feel like they can't

Where have you been girl missed you so much great video you're like the only the only SA video essayist I know and love . Great video Please Miss don't go missing no more(if possible obvs) ,🥰🥰🥰🥰

@Khensani

Жыл бұрын

Thank you! I'm definitely trying to make more time for filming!

Thank you Khensani! This argument is so relevant for African fashion (and my dissertation focusing on the philosophical positions through which luxury fashion is produced in SA). I do find that MaXhosa Africa is actually a lil more community focused than some other luxury brands in SA although they're still very much capitalistic.

@Khensani

Жыл бұрын

OK, your dissertation sounds amazing. All the best for it. MaXhosa is definitely community focused, something I forgot to mention was that we do see that community/culture approach with a lot of SA designers which I love and we need more of on a wholistic level.

I always learn so much from you. Please keep creating. ❤️

@Khensani

Жыл бұрын

Thank you, I'll try!

Thoroughly enjoyed the video thank you so much keep creating 💗

Excellent! I especially appreciate the fact that you did not buy into the whole fight capitalism with more capitalism thing. I'm learning so much about local fashion from you and I love how you tie everything together. This video really made me think about my grandparents' lives in a deeper way. They both worked in clothing factories for as long as I can remember and made peanuts. I saw it as just jobs they did to get by but now I realise its so much more! Thank you for that xx🌻

@Khensani

Жыл бұрын

I'm glad you enjoyed it, Z! Your grandparents were the lifeblood of a whole industry, and sucks that they weren't rewarded properly for it.

Love this video especially 13:59 " We cannot keep coming up with capitalist solutions to capitalist problems". Nail on the head. Just like how black billionaires aren't the solution. Overall we need to realise that western norms and capitalism are actually hella dystopian and our own indigenous systems and knowledge have the key to everything. They are actually designed for the fundamental human need of living a fulfilled life as opposed to the west and its systems which are solely designed for material ownership and accumulation. I wish people could see this...

@Khensani

Жыл бұрын

Yes, a very key difference and why we're all burnout and sad and overwhelmed rn! Thank you for watching!

So well said. Also!!! You look lovely.

@Khensani

Жыл бұрын

Thank you so much!

Another great video. So many great and necessary points were made.

thinking about how the fur/ skins that hunter gatherers wear aren't 'made' by one person

@Khensani

Жыл бұрын

Ha, lmao true. I don't know if you've ever seen the fashion film Indlela Yethu which follows a nomadic bushman and he speaks about how animals and nature are of equal importance in our ecosystem. They're just as much as our community, especially because they give us so much like food and hide.

yay

Bro I can listen to you for hours sbwl a podcast

@Khensani

Жыл бұрын

Isn't that what this is lol