Adding Designs to our Wet Forms

Тәжірибелік нұсқаулар және стиль

In this video, Chuck demonstrates how to add designs to our wet forms to give our projects a unique look. You can quickly and easily make your own wet forms out of leather and pattern sheeting. Try out Chuck's 5-point star, or create your own design with scrap leather or other objects, like spare washers and bolts. The sky's the limit on the creative possibilities!
For a full list of supplies used in this video, visit www.weaverleathersupply.com/c...
0:40 It is time to get creative and if you don't feel like a creative person, I think you're about to surprise yourself. Here’s why I say this, one of the classes I teach at shows is wet forming. Well the first few steps we go over a couple of utility uses like say welts or keepers or pockets. Then we step it up because now we're going to add a design onto our form. We can do it both on the pocket and the flap, really tie a project together. So let's start here. This is our cell case. We've got a good video on this so we're not going to go into great detail on the construction, but what we are going to do, let's form our pocket and a design on that pocket. So we're going to go two ways here. We're going to go with a simple geometric shape, then we're going to create our own shape. Okay right here, simple geometric shape. How many ways could we possibly go with this? We're going to do a five-pointed star. We've got a good video -Shop Tricks 11 shows us how to draw out a five-pointed star. Super easy to do and we can make it any size, but how about a heart or one diamond, multiple diamonds, a steer head. So many ways we can get creative with this, but let's go with the star, get the feel for this.
1:50 Okay, now just some background info. I've created a form here, this is simply scrap leather. It's four ply of eight to nine ounce - now make this depending on the thickness of your phone - but that'll do most phones. Now I've added our pattern sheeting onto the top of this because as we wet this, as we put wet leather on this, our edges are going to soften and round. The pattern sheeting is going to keep that from happening. Now, lifelong mold - not really, but we'll be surprised at how many molds we can get from a simple form like this.
2:21 Okay so our star. Let's do this. Let's take a scrap piece of eight to nine ounce, let's draw out our star whatever size we want. Let's take this, jump over to our main table cut some leather. We're dealing with a relatively small design here but we're just working with a cell case. It's a smaller project, but think of something like a briefcase or saddlebags, purse, bag, pouch. We can create a design that would span the entire flap, so really what I’m saying, so let's fill out our space with our design. Okay so with this we're gonna go with an eight to nine ounce leather. Well I want something that's got a little more thickness to it the thicker our leather on our form, the deeper our mold is gonna be, the better it's gonna stand out. So right here, our pattern sheeting. Now this is not as easy to draw on as i would like so let's do this. Let's take our leather, let's drop in our star, but our first step - and this is going to help us later - let's mark our center point. Okay now let's draw this in with our pen. Okay that looks good. Now our glue, this is our leathercraft cement. This is a great glue, strangely strong, but let's go ahead and glue our pattern sheeting down to our leather. Let's make sure we get glue right out to the tips. There we go, okay let's drop our pattern sheeting on top of that and let's press this down. Okay, we've got a good press, let's give that about five minutes let that glue set.
3:57 We've given this time to dry, so new blade every time, let's move some of this out of our way. Let's take a square and let's do our best to trim this right on the line. Now the pattern sheeting - easy to cut, but again a new blade. Let's make maybe two passes, maybe one more. There we go, good clean cut. Let's do that all the way around. Now one good point, I’m gonna come from my inside out. It's really tough to try to come from the outside in and get a good corner, so let's just take our time and separate a corner just if we need to. Okay we've got that, so now I can see my center point on that. Let's go with relatively small hole because we're just going to use this to line this up if we need to, but let's punch that. There we go.
5:01 Okay, let's step back to our punch table and wet form onto this. We can use the same leathercraft cement to attach our design onto our form. Again, it's a great cement but with our center mark, this bear's mentioning, so right here on my design I’ve come up a little further than half of an inch. I've come up two inches from the bottom line and I’ve dropped in a center mark, so therefore I know exactly where the center of that design is and I can see it now on a star.

Пікірлер: 25

  • @jarekmace1536
    @jarekmace1536 Жыл бұрын

    Instead of a bone folder with its sharp edge, I often use my wooden edge slicker as it has a rounded point at the end. It leaves minimal marks while pushing the crease.

  • @robwagner7545
    @robwagner7545 Жыл бұрын

    10:15 using woodworking concepts in leather, love it! Nice kerf cut.

  • @th.burggraf7814
    @th.burggraf7814 Жыл бұрын

    Every time I see your videos, I want to start a new project. Have a great weekend. 🤝

  • @dperisty1
    @dperisty1 Жыл бұрын

    You could also use a modelling spoon/rubbing tool if the bone tool is too harsh/cumbersome to work with.

  • @lukegimpel8090
    @lukegimpel809011 ай бұрын

    You can use PVC cement and coat that leather. It's a great hardner and water proof so your molds will last longer

  • @WeaverLeatherSupply

    @WeaverLeatherSupply

    11 ай бұрын

    Thanks for the tip!

  • @lond2835
    @lond2835 Жыл бұрын

    Great vid, Chuck!

  • @taitano12
    @taitano12 Жыл бұрын

    Beautiful. Thank you for the lesson. I would have used one of those little triangles from the kerf cut from earlier. Less waste that way. Either way works, really.

  • @daverooni7763
    @daverooni7763 Жыл бұрын

    Thanks for these videos Chuck. You are a great teacher and motivator. For me, it would be clearer if you quickly showed us the end product, and then showed us how you got there. At first, I wasn’t sure where you were going with making that D. For that D, would spraying the form with saddlelac or something similar help it to last longer as a form? Keep the videos coming 👍

  • @chadsullivan2481
    @chadsullivan2481 Жыл бұрын

    Love watching these tutorials. With regard to antique gel, I only see a variety of browns and black as available colors. Are there any other colors available that have a similar application process? Thanks again for all educational videos....keep up the good work!

  • @jackiemitchell4418
    @jackiemitchell4418 Жыл бұрын

    Chuck, I've heard you say many, many times,... "Use a new blade". I use a box cutter quite often also, but have found that I'd rather strop the same high quality blade over and over rather than replace it with a new blade. My blade becomes sharper than factory settings and since is a meatier blade, it's very easy to strop to "scary sharp". Your thoughts?

  • @maddawgnoll

    @maddawgnoll

    Жыл бұрын

    As long as you're starting with a sharp blade, you're doing it right. I do the same, because I'm a cheap ass lol. But stropping your blade should be recommended by all. I'll strop my cheap razor blades, even if it's fresh. I find getting that smooth polished edge helps a lot with reducing drag.

  • @shamanbeartwo3819

    @shamanbeartwo3819

    Жыл бұрын

    I, too, strop my utility blades but I strop anything and everything.

  • @dperisty1
    @dperisty1 Жыл бұрын

    I love using the scraps to make the forms! Would adding resolene to the mold help? Would wrapping the mold with saran wrap help? I would guess both would help to a certain degree but eventually moisture would transfer over...

  • @johntyson9102
    @johntyson9102 Жыл бұрын

    I dipped dieda gitarstrap in pro dyi black it very stif in 7:8oz

  • @MOONUNIT37
    @MOONUNIT37 Жыл бұрын

    what's up chuck

  • @GodmadeConscious

    @GodmadeConscious

    Жыл бұрын

    Up chuck lol

  • @ivanweich1018
    @ivanweich10186 ай бұрын

    I want to tool a basketweave design on a wet molded knife pouch. What is the best way to do this without n order to keep the design and color (from the stain/dye)??

  • @renaissanceman4054
    @renaissanceman4054 Жыл бұрын

    Hey Chuck, I'm curious your opinion on dipping projects in hot wax

  • @jharris280zx
    @jharris280zx Жыл бұрын

    hey chuck, how do you deal with pain in your hands after a few hours of leatherworking?

  • @jarekmace1536

    @jarekmace1536

    Жыл бұрын

    Frequent breaks, hand exercise with various grades of recovery balls, and strength build-up through repetition. Worked for me.

  • @maddawgnoll

    @maddawgnoll

    Жыл бұрын

    My hands cramp up bad. I have to stretch and crack my knuckles, but there's a point where I just have to stop. Getting older sure sucks sometimes.

  • @andyamend1350
    @andyamend1350 Жыл бұрын

    I've been making my molds on a 3D printer lately .. I can add literally anything and they last forever

  • @taitano12

    @taitano12

    Жыл бұрын

    I was thinking about the same thing. I recently got my first 3d printer and, seeing this video I got to thinking about that. Especially when he mentioned the mold wearing out. Using acrylic and other plastic cutouts for forms has been a thing for a while; even metal forms. But 3d printed forms seems more convenient. This 3d printer is the most useful purchase I've made in a long time. Right up there with my woodworking and blacksmithing tools. Woodworking, blacksmithing, electronics engineering, sewing. Now I'm learning leather, glass and a few other things. There ain't much I can't make.

  • @utkf16

    @utkf16

    2 ай бұрын

    @@taitano12 Im new to the leather hobby but had a 3d printer for a few years and I have started trying to print out 3d patterns using Fusion 360. Moulds will be next I see some designs easier than others but if you use 360 you can insert a picture of what you are wanting to mould, calibrate the size then draw around it. A really neat feature and the software is free for non commercial use

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