Love this series, man! Insane how Adam Ondra is able to do that move statically!

@AlbertOkay

4 жыл бұрын

He's such a beast! Seriously on a different level!

@panda4247

3 жыл бұрын

Insane how the others were able to do those dynos.

@AntonAdelson

3 жыл бұрын

Because of his reach. This channel, if I'm not mistaken, talks about another climber who uses his reach and height for advantage

@ewyguewyboy

3 жыл бұрын

i agree its insane how it did it but it wasnt static. he swung his body into position, latched the left and and rotated to right hand into a gaston positon all at once.

@Max-rt8kz

2 жыл бұрын

@@AntonAdelson so what ?😅

one of my favourite examples of how there's no ideal body type in climbing and every disadvantage comes with a hidden advantage (and vice versa). adam found it easy to reach between the holds where a shorter climber might have struggled, but was too lanky to get his centre of gravity in the right place to make the dyno work. his greater mass helps him generate the momentum needed for this type of move, but as soon as his momentum carried him past the middle hold it stopped being an advantage and started making it nearly impossible for him to hold the swing, so he was flying off to the left. but also, a smaller climber wouldnt have been able to span the gap between the two green holds. one of the reasons adam is such a great climber is that he very quickly recognises when one of the advantages he usually relies on is working against him, and is incredibly creative in figuring out how to turn it back around so its working for him again. his height and mass were making that dyno harder than it was (and it was already pretty hard!), but hes one of only a few people with the wingspan necessary to use both those holds at the same time, and he knows hes better at static moves. intelligent climbing is always more impressive than epic dynos.

@connorvanvuuren6455

2 жыл бұрын

Hmmm what is the hidden advantage in being an overweight climber?

@lootic

2 жыл бұрын

@@connorvanvuuren6455 There are two advantages, you get to the ground faster after you get to the top and you are much more suitable to secure someone else.

@connorvanvuuren6455

2 жыл бұрын

@@lootic lol

@santi_super_stunts2573

Жыл бұрын

@@connorvanvuuren6455 once you actually lose weight by climbing , your finger will be used to holding a heavy ass load but now you have a light load. Hangboard training made easy

@Turnpost2552

Жыл бұрын

Lose the weight. You always had that option.

And this was the first Olympics I was looking forward to :(

@AlbertOkay

4 жыл бұрын

Olympics are still on schedule for 2020 in Tokyo! Unless you're referring to Adam being a beast at the Olympic games!

@WyandWombat

4 жыл бұрын

@@AlbertOkay Well, at the current rate of events I'd say forget about the olympics.

@AlbertOkay

4 жыл бұрын

@@WyandWombat Yeah...I'm so sad about the potential that it could get cancelled. );

@briseboy

4 жыл бұрын

@@AlbertOkay August 2021 now.

@darth4arth

4 жыл бұрын

😢

There's two things I'm going to be annoyed with Olympic climbing. A) most of the problems are going to be dynos and crazy coordination moves that are all done fast and powerfully. B) when someone like Adam breaks that beta and does it statically people are going to think that they're the worse climber for it when the opposite is true

@AlbertOkay

4 жыл бұрын

Both good points, I have a feeling at the actual Olympics (if it even ends up happening due to the virus) they're going to work really hard on keeping a good balance between everything. Honestly it's always going to be interesting to me what happens to the climbing meta in years to come and see how climbers adapt to it because clearly Adam has adapted to every type of climbing!

@RosteezHD

4 жыл бұрын

you're not going to be annoyed for another 4 years at least

@charlesfowler4308

4 жыл бұрын

Don't forget speed being combined with bouldering and lead where imo it really doesn't belong

@tarettime9392

4 жыл бұрын

@@charlesfowler4308 I mean the furthest hold gets priority. I think if you have 2 people send a problem/route then who ever did it faster was the more efficient climber. Especially if they are consistently faster. I'm not a massive fan of it but what's another non subjective way of breaking that tie?

@charlesfowler4308

4 жыл бұрын

@@tarettime9392 Sorry I meant the discipline speed climbing rather than using time to time break, I'm fine with that

I was in Bercy that day and remember clearly having an intuition that this would have happened, the moment i saw the boulder... to see this intuition come true was truly special!!!

@AlbertOkay

4 жыл бұрын

Heck yes! Man I'm sure you were so excited watching it in person. I wish I was watching it person because I'm sure I would have lost it.

I love the fact that you took the scene where tyler01 gets spanked with a paddle for not finishing his burger

@AlbertOkay

4 жыл бұрын

LOL thanks for knowing the clip :)

@jasond6053

4 жыл бұрын

@@AlbertOkay (:

I love your series, hope you do a lot more. I really enjoy the analysis of the beta break, finding what works for you is the best part of climbing, at least for me, because it never gets boring....

@AlbertOkay

4 жыл бұрын

Finding your own solution is such a beautiful part of climbing! I'm glad you enjoyed the series, more to come in the future!

Great series man, your pacing is perfect and I love how you compare against other climbers. I also like how you explain the "paddling" or the "figure 4" before showing the move. It will help people that don't know climbing grasp what's so cool. Keep it up!

I guess you could call this the tall people beta. Probably down right impossible to do for a lot of his shorter competitors.

@reidback6508

4 жыл бұрын

the dyno is down-right impossible for someone of his height though. He has way too much momentum going away from the wall

@Jsoccer1999

4 жыл бұрын

Reid Back not true

@reidback6508

4 жыл бұрын

@@Jsoccer1999 you're right, the guy that can climb v16, is one of the strongest climbers out there is just too weak for that move

@Jsoccer1999

4 жыл бұрын

Reid Back i mean yea. There’s plenty of tall gym rat climbers who are beasts that could stick that one armed. You must be new to this. Ondra isn’t any kind of specialist in those moves

@emilsauberlich7923

4 жыл бұрын

Jack1999 not true

I love your style of video and pace of commentary. Just found and binged your collection. Looking forward to more. Thank you for the content

@AlbertOkay

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks! Look out for new content in the future soon!

Just found out about this awesome series, I love beta breaks, thanks for making it.

Love your content mate! Storytelling, editing and general content of the vids is consistently high - always something new to learn from it and entertaining on itsway. Thank you!

@AlbertOkay

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the support and comment. Keep crushing it!

Keep up this series, it's great and really shows the effort these climbers put in albeit in a different way

I haven't subscribed this quickly to a channel since ever, actually. Love this series that you're doing, and looking forward to your future works!

@AlbertOkay

4 жыл бұрын

Thank you thankyou! I will most definitely be keeping this series up and releasing other content that hopefully you'll enjoy in the future!

I just want to say this is an incredible video. I’ve been watching people with 5-10 million subs, Ryan Trahan, vox, etc. this video is so engaging and purely incredible I was stunned. You are a talented creator, keep it up.

Love your content man! I feel like this channel is about to blow up! So strike while the iron is hot! We need more of these videos :)

@AlbertOkay

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks Jami! It would be great to blow up, but honestly I truly just enjoy making this content and would still be putting out videos whether I got 10 views or 1 million! Hope you enjoy the future videos!

Adam Ondra is so impressive! And I love your Beta Break Series, keep 'em coming! 💪

@AlbertOkay

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks so much, I'll definitely be keeping this series coming and I hope you enjoy them!

I always love the big, impressive dyno's and long reaches and jumps... but there is something so amazing and satisfying about seeing someone find a way to do a move where climbers would usually have to jump/dyno, with a static movement. Brains vs brawn in climbing is always fascinating. It really takes a mix of both, and it will never just be one or the other. Sometimes you will need more brain, sometimes you will just need the pure brawn, usually you will need a solid mix of both. It makes for such a dynamic and interesting sport.

@seppstarthebest

2 жыл бұрын

i always loved to watch puccio vs noguchi or hoyer vs mcoll

@seppstarthebest

2 жыл бұрын

i always loved to watch puccio vs noguchi or hoyer vs mcoll

Reminds me of Jacques Kalis in cricket - a top quality player isn't always the most exciting to watch, but will be the most consistent.

Loving these videos!! Great explanation, comparisons, editing - keep it up!

@AlbertOkay

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks Laura! I'll definitely keep releasing videos like this in the future so stay tuned!

Thank you for these series! Amazing.

your series is great! have you considered to feature alex megos with his insane leg-split resting positions on long routes?

@AlbertOkay

4 жыл бұрын

100% Yes! I have plans to make a video dedicated on the splits used in climbing! Thanks for watching!

@scottwangkl8882

3 жыл бұрын

@@quax8923 I immediately pictured that drop knee split in my head when I read your comment. Megos has legendary flexibility

Back at it again, sweet video!

I just watched every single video. So good!

@AlbertOkay

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks Michael! I'll definitely be releasing more content like this in the future! :)

Keep this series going man! Awesome stuff

@AlbertOkay

4 жыл бұрын

I will! Definitely have so many more to make and I'm excited to keep them coming!

KZread has been recommending these climbing videos to me, now I'm kinda excited to see what these athletes will do in the Olympics next year. It should be fun to watch. This is like seeing speed runners glitch the game.

@AlbertOkay

4 жыл бұрын

It's going to be an absolute spectacle to watch the olympics next year. I'm sure climbers are going to pull out some insane moves, I can't wait!

Loving this series! such an awesome concept. And great commentary

Super well put together dude, Awesome videos!

@AlbertOkay

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks Tibby! Hopefully I'll be able to keep it up and keep bringing content like this!

Again, a great video! This series is sick

@AlbertOkay

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks Tomas! The support and positive comments means allot to me!

@brakza

4 жыл бұрын

@@AlbertOkay yeah but its going to get cancelled in a week of two. No way it is ethical possible to go for Olympics with Covid-19 still going (which it will)

@AlbertOkay

4 жыл бұрын

@@brakza Yeah - really sad that it's getting cancelled although the reasons are necessary. );

Just discovered this channel today, subscribed! Cool content 👌🏼

Hi! I have nothing to do with climbing other that occasionally trying to climb up a rock for fun. But i’m still hooked on your video’s! Thank you!

@AlbertOkay

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks so much for watching regardless if you climb or not! Means a lot to me!

You just earned a new subscriber. Excellent video!

@AlbertOkay

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks! Working on new content right now!

Seems I'm early to the hype your channel will inevitably receive, especially once climbing debuts in the Olympics

love this series keep it coming

@AlbertOkay

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks allot! I'll keep them coming!

0:49 I like the tyler1 cameo

@AlbertOkay

4 жыл бұрын

Hehe put it in there for the gamers

I have never done rock climbing in my life but for some reason it’s so interesting. Would love to try it.

@thealienarms

3 жыл бұрын

Give it a shot!

Not even 500 Subscribers? I cant believe it. Your videos are amazing!

@AlbertOkay

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks to you I'm passed 500 now! Thanks so much! :)

i'm french and after he said "did a beta break that left the commentators speechless" i just heard " Voillaaaaa !! ça c'etait pas bête !!" ( that wasn't stupid) which totally break the emotion in this achievment x)

@AlbertOkay

3 жыл бұрын

Haha I don't speak french, but thanks for translating it's kind of funny

I love bouldering with static moves. Just more elegant

It should be noted that height - or perhaps "reach" is the better term here - factors in to why Adam Ondra was able to static that move. If your arms and legs aren't long enough, you're never going to static that move no matter how much you'd like to.

he may have been the only one to do it statically because of his reach advantage

@gileee

4 жыл бұрын

First thing I noticed was that he could eat of the heads of some of the other competitors

@joaoafonsomendonca9044

3 жыл бұрын

no doubt, but that's also what kept him from getting in a comfortable position to gain power in the start

@Razagul319

3 жыл бұрын

@@joaoafonsomendonca9044 so these Dyno moves are just short people taking their revenge on taller guys?

@hanspeters1901

3 жыл бұрын

But even you have the reach you must have the body tension to hold it. And this harder than to yump around.

@JonHop1

2 жыл бұрын

@@Razagul319 Pretty much.. Dyno is just easier for short/small people because there is less mass to move.. Its really just simple physics, whereas Adam being long and lanky has advantages in other areas due to his height and length.

Please i want more from this series

This was on my recommended

Awesome beta break!

Waiting for the Collin Duffy episode. Amazing channel man we need more youtubers like you. YOURE GONNA GO SO FAR MAN KEEP UP THE GREAT CONTENT!!!

@AlbertOkay

4 жыл бұрын

Oh man it's coming! I actually talked to him right after he won Pan-ams and he is just an insane climber with SO much potential! THANK YOU!!

Great video, that was an awesome beta break! I'd say that it's still a dynamic move. He just made it into a much-better controlled deadpoint motion.

1:25 manuel cornu and mikael mawem were both in Netflix's Ultimate Beastmaster, an obstacle course game show!!! thats how i got into learning about climbing in the first place. both of them did incredibly as do most of the climbers who go on the show. i never considered that they couldve known each other before the show but makes sense

Bro is an absolute beast

Love this stuff mang!

Great series you should be on your way to 1 million subs in no time with content like this... maybe look at other sports

insane skills

As a tall person doing this static seems not only easy, but seems like the proper technique

I just love how the rapporteurs were speechless

You definitely need a subscription for your amazing work

@AlbertOkay

4 жыл бұрын

Thank you Piero! I cherish every subscriber! Climb hard!

Digging the content dude!

@AlbertOkay

4 жыл бұрын

bro your content is so good what the hell

@AlbertOkay

4 жыл бұрын

Thans Jasper! I'll try and keep it up!

I’m always looking for the Dyno! 💪🏻🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🧗🏻‍♂️

@AlbertOkay

3 жыл бұрын

Me too, but sometimes going static is great too!

Top notch climbing content

@AlbertOkay

4 жыл бұрын

Others: break the beta by dynoing every static Him: breaking the beta by staticing a dyno

Dude what an intro with great music to bust

Great series!!

Very nice video thanks!

Outro song? Also great video! The flow of it was well done.

New to the channel. Loved the vid!

Much love from Czech :)

Amazing, thx a lot👍👍👍👍

wait can you tell me the competition where the guy celebrated but fell of the last hold? and name of person. thanks

@albert Ok which is the song you're using in these videos? I really like the chill of it and would have loved to listen to it when I bouldered a bit last Sunday :).

@AlbertOkay

4 жыл бұрын

Yoyo! I put the songs at the end screen of the video, on my phone now -otherwise I'd link it for you! :)

@thorstenreitz7302

4 жыл бұрын

@@AlbertOkay Awesome, thanks - somehow I missed that :). The song I meant is this one: kzread.info/dash/bejne/pnqW2cSDnraWoJM.html

You deserve way more subscriber then you have

I really miss those…

Awesome!

I'm not a climber at all but unlike a lot of sports like athletics Indonesia see the Olympics as the pinnacle of climbing. Just like it isn't the pinnacle of football, the world cup or champions's league is. The pinnacle of climbing, from my totally amateur KZread viewing point of view, is who can do the hardest routes out in the open. Like Adam doing the first 9c in the world.

This Adam dude is wicked cool 🌌

in before your channel explodes.. these videos are great.

@AlbertOkay

4 жыл бұрын

Bless :)

@JackboMack

4 жыл бұрын

Albert Ok I think you were about 900 subs when I commented.

@AlbertOkay

4 жыл бұрын

@@JackboMack AY THANKS FOR BEING ONE OF THE EARLY SUBSCRIBERS

Come back Albert, i need more Beta Break videos!

I found your channel after subscribing to a few rock climbing videos and it came up as a suggestion. I am unclear on why you don't have a higher subscribe rate I'm sure it's just a matter of time because your video and your explanations are amazing congrats on your future success!

He is also way taller than some of the others, smart to use it as an advantage

0:49 Tyler1 paddle beta break

*Correction* 3:25: a *gaston* is when ur *elbows* are pointing away from ur body, like when ur opening a bag of chips, Ondra did a sidepull

I like the aesthetic of static moves more personally.

🐱‍👤 Tomoa the gymnastics flyer and Adam the best... great stuff! .

@AlbertOkay

3 жыл бұрын

Such a great difference in styles. So great to watch!

Even outside of a comp. All that matters is that you send

I always try to do a static Version of a dyno first which does work quite alot, then go back to do it as intended after just to work on my dynamic abilities which are alright, but far from perfect.

I know fuck all about climbing and even I know that Ondra is a beast

I'm a tree climber trimmer for power company, so this is fun to watch for me. What is the difference between static and dynamic moves? I sense it is all out jump vs. Hold to hold without losing contact?

@dabossman5650

3 жыл бұрын

Yea exactly

@KT78387

3 жыл бұрын

@@dabossman5650thanks. ill try to bring the language out to my field then get it catching on lol.

i wanna be like him one day hes my idolo

I like your videos! Please do a video about Janja!! There must be a lot to talk about her 👏

@AlbertOkay

4 жыл бұрын

Heck yes! I have been already researching about her...I have so much to talk about her!

@JorgePacker

4 жыл бұрын

@@AlbertOkay maybe this could be a longer one 😉

@AlbertOkay

4 жыл бұрын

@@JorgePacker Yes!

Seems like he just had a big enough wingspan to do it that way...

@taggerung_

2 жыл бұрын

@Darren Harper why does it have to be an embarassment if you cant do something exactly the same way other people do...

Tall with great wingspan too. This is why most dynos now involve greater distance

I climbed with u at liposuction today then randomly got suggested ur vid

There should be a second world championship on dynamic climbing..

Where's that kneepad Video? :D Oh BTW really nice series!

Anyone have a link to the "Cosmic Giraffes" POB song? I cannot find it!

@luismisanmartin98

4 жыл бұрын

Got it! soundcloud.com/user-119836951/cosmic-giraffes

Heckin' Adam

this like is for adam

I mean, when you have the wingspan of a pterodactyl...

Break the Beta!!!

@AlbertOkay

3 жыл бұрын

Break it!

Whats the music he uses?

Subbed!

@AlbertOkay

4 жыл бұрын

Nice