These people have single handedly help me with so many of my mk4 tdi problems via their videos. Glad to have such a great resource. Keep up the stellar work I for one greatly appreciate it

@CoolAirVw

Жыл бұрын

these people be me! Thanks so much!

your costermer lucky to have you to make them save and real fix .thanks great video

@CoolAirVw

Жыл бұрын

thanks!

When it’s melted where that 30amp fuse goes in I have noticed many times the ac compressor is drawing too many amps causing it to melt you can use an amp clamp to test. I work on a ton of these old alh vw’s at my shop and noticed any time one came in with that fuse melted it would come back needing an a/c compressor within a year so I started to use my amp clamp to test. When they melt where the alternator fuse goes it’s usually because the battery is weak, the car has a draw so the alternator is always charging a dead battery or they have a big amp and speakers. Also one thing I see shops miss a lot is the ambient temp sensor on these old cars. I actually just had one the other day come into my shop the customer found out that I know these old diesels very well, she had the car at a few other shops where the replaced about 2,000 bucks worth of parts and still didn’t work, well a mouse chewed up the wires going to the ambient temp sensor so the car thinks it -44 degrees out so it doesn’t let the run. If ur using a snap on scan tool sometimes you might be able to read the ambient temp and sometimes not. The last few years their updates have been wacky with Audi/vw I’ve had an update that would only let me scan for codes nothing else on this 2018 A8 L that I have worked on many times before then I get another update and I can do whatever again. To anyone working on Audi/vw it’s worth spending the 1000 bucks on a Ross tech cable with unlimited use

@CoolAirVw

Жыл бұрын

1st paragraph... I disagree. If it were drawing too many amps the fuse would blow. The first few I amp tested. Its not a excess amp draw problem its the design of the fuse box. The contact point is "singular". Only contacts one spot on the blade of the fuse. Any resistance, corrosion, water contamination and it heats up. 2nd paragraph. Had mouse chewed ambient temp SWITCH wiring also. 3rd paragraph. On mk4's like the one in this video NOTHING on the AC system is "scannable" . No trouble codes, no data, no scanner. Plus on Mk4's like this one its a "SWITCH" not a sensor.

Hey coolair. On my mk4 alh tdi it’s having a problem where it won’t accelerate much at all past around 3k rpm’s. It will be accelerating good then it’s like it hits a wall. I’ve replaced my n75 valve, vacuum check valve, and completely cleaned out the intake manifold and egr. I don’t see any loose hoses. But my vacuum lines are pretty rough, could that be the issue? Or do you have any suggestions on what to check. Also it seems to feel fine when I’m in neutral and just rev the engine, the problem is only when driving in gear. Also it just threw a code for P3130. But this has been happening before the code popped up

@CoolAirVw

Жыл бұрын

list of potential causes for low power is long. Its gonna need diagnose by someone who knows what they are doing.

@austinrudd463

Жыл бұрын

@@CoolAirVw my intake pipe that goes from the air box down to the cool side of the turbo was popped off by the turbo. Hopefully that was the issue 🙏

Not sure ill get a reply but is this the same on a VW golf 2010 bluemotion? Trying to figure out my aircon issue

@CoolAirVw

2 ай бұрын

no. Look for the following video and others like it. kzread.info/dash/bejne/X6Rr0tafnrTbkZs.htmlsi=lCDoeUAgMeKIOPff

Interesting failure. If the fuse is in fact sized according to the demands of the circuit and I would assume that it is, then we might have to assume that the fuse box is a bad design or manufactured using an inferior grade of plastic that melts at too low of a temperature and or the metal gauge of the female connector for the fuse is too thin and it loosens up creating higher resistance causing heat. That being the case I have to wonder if the replacement fuse box is going to fail the same way in time unless it's made of a better grade of materials. Reminds me of a common problem with the early 2000s Subaru Forester headlight wiring connection sockets. The brass (or whatever they're made of, they look brass) female blade connectors are made of very thin material and cannot handle the current that the halogen bulbs draws, so they get floppier and the plastic on the connectors melt. Amazon sells some replacement sockets with pigtails that have nice heavier duty female blade conductors in a ceramic housing for about 5 bucks each.

@CoolAirVw

Жыл бұрын

fuse is not a part of the problem. High resistance in the cable "end" causes reduction in amps so its less likely to blow the fuse. The high resistance generates heat though and that is what damages the fuse box.

@fredflintstone8048

Жыл бұрын

@@CoolAirVw Yes, I understand that, even though my comment may not have conveyed that very well. Weak blade connections which can be caused by the type of material or it's thickness, or how well it's rolled over to grip tightly that don't grip very well can become high resistance points and resistance always generates heat compounding the problem.. As metals, wires increase in heat their resistance also goes up as well as the contact point. Since this seems to happen fairly often I would assume as I stated that it's a design flaw and I wonder if it's solved in the aftermarket replacement.

@tedjohnson64

4 ай бұрын

Aha, that makes sense. Except… in the video it only showed you replacing the melted fuse box, not the cable. Did you (off camera) then replace that cable, after you replaced the melted fuse box? Or is replacing just the melted fuse box a “good enough” repair, because the high resistance cable problem takes a very long time to actually melt the fusebox?

my go to place when my wives car won't start...a yearly change out....

@CoolAirVw

Жыл бұрын

ok.