Nice how you covered the options. I have seen a few videos of making collet chucks & wondered why folk didn't use the Morse Taper in the head stock to be eventually told it was due to lack of long feed stock capability which is true but It was nice to have it all fully explained from the beginning as you did and which is really helpful for folk like me who don't use collets much as often I just want rough & ready stuff for jobs were getting something that works as quick as possible is what matters.Thanks for sharing!

Excellent, looks like an application I could use as well. Always enjoy your input, cheers!

Had one for 18 months, very accurate, wouldn't be without it.

Collets are great for quick accuracy. Thanks for the video.

Great project idea. Good luck with it.

Hey g'day Rob thanks for sharing that one mate, I'm with you collet chucks are great....keep up the great channel content.

Good video Rob, I've had the 100mm diameter Er25 collet chuck for few years now. Couldn't do without it :) Adam

Thanks rob , will be watching with great interest Cheers Colum 👍

was going to adapt one of those er32 collet chucks for my wood lathe- looking forward to video. I hardly use jawed chucks in hobby shop anymore. I also like the safety of collets, much lower clench factor when sticking fingers into the mixer 🌀

Rob I fitted an ER40 D1-4 cam-lock from memory, to my lathe and got a well priced 2-26mm collet set from Banggood to suit last year. I have since fitted an ER32 MT3 to my tail stock to stop damaging my drill shanks. And yes this was your fault because I was motivated by one of your videos. My Wife is looking for you🤣 This set up is brilliant well worth the investment.

@Xynudu

4 жыл бұрын

Once you switch to using collets in the tailstock you become paranoid about marking your good drills ;) I have two sets. One good/like new for the tailstock, and one beat up to hell that goes in the drill chucks etc. Those regular three jaw drill chucks tear the heart out of anything you put in them. Collets rule . Cheers Rob

I was watching one of your videos 3-4 years ago and that was my introduction to the er 32 collet system..This set that I have are not super accurate and at one stage I was going to use them as snapper sinkers and then relented and found a way to use them..The other day I was threading some 12mm light wall aluminium tubing and the collets gripped it really well..A 3 jaw or 4 jaw chuck would have just crushed them and made a balls up..A collet set is a must have in my work shop now..Thanks for the videos Rob.. E

@Xynudu

4 жыл бұрын

Hi Ian, well made collets are awesome, but poorly made collets are horrible. So my recommendation is to only buy DIN standard collet gear. The is a major drawback of buying from outlets on line - you are lucky to even get a runout figure. I buy all my collet gear from CTC Tools on line store. They don't sell rubbish - all are to a DIN standard. Most is Chinese, but good. Cheers Rob

One other method that can be used is to mount a collet block in the regular four jaw chuck. This allows you to adjust out any tooling runout or inaccuracies with your lathe. It's a good idea for those sort of issues, but it ties up the four jaw and you have to reset it every time the four jaw is used separately. Good collet blocks incorporate a feed through hole. In this video we only look at stand alone systems. Cheers Rob

Gday Rob, I’m very interested in this, looking forward to seeing your next video, Matty

Look forward to seeing how it goes, I'll probably end up sorting one out for the emco, one day! ATB Cliff

@Xynudu

4 жыл бұрын

This is all your fault Cliff. I saw your ER collet chuck making video and thought I could improve on mine. LOL. Stuffed it up big time. So rather than endure the pain of making a third one (yes three) I went for this option. So far it looks very very appealing. The product is beautifully finished. So the review should be very interesting. Moral of this story is : if it's working OK leave the bloody thing alone. Cheers Rob

Hi Rob. You are reminding us we have a 5C collet chuck for our Machine Shop area lathe but we have not completed the back plate (how ours is to be held no press through hole uninterrupted) so we can install it we confess, we see you have one on your lathe. Lance & Patrick.

Interesting stuff Rob. Making an internally threaded collet chuck is still on my todo list. I think I said the same thing in a comment on one of your videos about this time last year ! I have switched up to the DIN specified ER40 set now, and it's a set I got from CTC (on your recommendation). Suits the mill, so I'm glad I didn't rush and make an ER32 lathe chuck. I just need to turn a threaded adapter for my threaded lathe spindle nose. It's quite a large thread though - somewhere around 2 1/4" x 6tpi x 55 degree. Not really looking forward to that, but it needs to be done. I had considered (in a brief moment of craziness) converting my lathe from threaded spindle over to a drive plate style, or a camlock, or whatever's most standard nowadays. A large plate with a boss, threaded to suit my spindle nose, and then loctited on. From there, I'd need to adapt my chucks, not very interesting, but very possible, and the benefit would be that I could fit up a VFD, use forward and reverse with confidence, and power tap in and out of things, and have a foot operated electronic brake. All that, without fear of the chuck spinning off the thread. Just a thought at this stage, and I'm probably better starting with a lathe that already has it, but - I do love this Premo lathe - and it would be worth upgrading. That spindle nose is its only downfall. Mill DRO needs fitting first though Cheers for now, Craig

@Xynudu

4 жыл бұрын

Hi Craig, ER size is a matter of preference. I went ER32 because it is quite a bit more compact than 40, which makes gear cutting easier to get in close to the mounting point/rig. You have the luxury of 26 mm capacity though, which is sometimes a restriction with 32, as this is often a nominal size/carry over from old Imperial days (one inch). The ability to reverse the chuck is useful. I have seen various attempts to get around the threaded chuck unscrewing issue, but I'm not sure how successful they are. I made the Schaublin setup non reversible for this reason, the chuck comes undone way too easily. Cheers Rob

@CraigsWorkshop

4 жыл бұрын

@@Xynudu Cheers Rob - yes this mill is quite a chunk of iron and I think the ER32 would have been a bit of underkill for it, so that ER32 gear got sold with my previous mill. The large mill came with an ER40 collet chuck and no collets, and I hadn't made any ER stuff for the lathe yet, so it was a no brainer to order the ER40 set from CTC, and standardise on that from here on. ER25 and below seems to be pretty cheap, so if I ever need anything smaller, I can always add setup that later. I believe the little TAIG has a built in ER16 or similar collet chuck, and associated collets, but they really are tiny. More like woodwork router collets. It's all good fun collecting and learning about this stuff! I'm just grateful you put me onto CTC. Cheers mate, Craig

The parallel alignment spigot on a selfcentering chuck plate should be made tapered with some preload. The tapered alignment is the only accurate way to fix a scroll chuck to a lathe spindle, this may entail making a new back plate and modifying the back of the chuck. I hope this helps

Hi Rob. Not long after I got my lathe I watched several of your videos which featured using collets on the lathe and I invested in a set of metric ER32 collets. The collet chuck spends more time in the lathe these days than any of the other chucks. I also have a nice set of imperial ER32 collets now. That new mounting system looks excellent, so I went and had a look on Banggood. Looks like they do an 80mm and a 100mm, unfortunately they don't tell you the crucial information, which is the size of the register and the mounting hole pitch. Be useful if you could let us know the measurements when you do the next video. Cheers, Alan.

@Xynudu

4 жыл бұрын

Hi Alan, I will cover that in the next video. I did it this way to keep the review short and concentrate on the product. BG specs are not great, but at least you get a run out figure on one of them ;) They did have two versions of the 80 mm chuck, but seem to be down to one now. The 100 mm won't fit either of my lathes without a backing/adapter plate, so I went 80 mm for the Schaublin. I expect the 7 x 10 guys will be pretty interested in the review. So this is just a heads up primer for what comes next. Cheers Rob

I would love an ER40 collet chuck for my lathe, just too cheap to drop the coin that is wanted for one. Maybe at some point, just not now. Thanks for sharing, will be interesting to see a Schaublin with a collet chuck on it.

@Xynudu

4 жыл бұрын

ER40 are good as they have a larger maximum capacity. The only downside is that the chuck is quite a bit larger than ER32 and for close in work (like gear cutting) that could be an issue. Cheers Rob

For the Asian lathe, another option is to mount an ER collet block in the normal 3 jaw chuck. A US link to illustrate. littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=4105&category=-421559299 I purchased an equivalent collet block set with square and hex blocks for my 5C collets. I purchased the 5C set before I discovered the ER collet series. I use my 5C collet block often on the metal lathe. The blocks also comes in handy on the milling machine when I want to mill a hex or square end on a piece. These days if I could start again I would use ER40 instead of the 5C just so I can change collets without having to remove the block from the chuck. Dave.

@Xynudu

4 жыл бұрын

Hi Dave, Yes, good point. Plus those collet blocks are handy for work holding for other tasks. I primarily deal with stand alone systems in this video, but I am aware there are other things you can do. Thanks for the comment as it widens the scope for viewers. Cheers Rob

Would be nice to see how closely machined those assemblies were performed...

@Xynudu

4 жыл бұрын

It's on the way Pierre. Initial impressions are that it is beautifully made. The nose thread is smooth as butter and tight as a, well, lets just say it's perfect ;) Cheers Rob

Good again Rob, what is the biggest er32 collets cheers

@Xynudu

4 жыл бұрын

20 mm is the standard designed maximum size, but you can buy oversized collets that exceed the design criteria. These are not as robust and exceed the original design criteria, Rather than do this you would be better to go ER40 which goes to 1" (26 mm).

ask banggood if they have the 5c collet scroll chuck for your chineese lathe.have one for my metalmaster ,made a backing plate and got a repeatable 0.02mm.of course you will need a set of 5c collets,i went with the metric.

@Xynudu

4 жыл бұрын

Hi Geoffrey, those scroll chucks for 5C look good. I haven't had a close look, but appear better than the standard set up. Cheers Rob

Every one does it a little different--I shove the collet chuck in the 4 jaw and then I can adjust the inaccuracies of the collets out if I have to..I get along alright with that method..

@Xynudu

4 жыл бұрын

Hi Ian, If you are going to use that method, go with a collet block and that way you get feed through (most have a through hole) and you can use it for other tasks/milling etc. Cheers Rob

Is the telescoping shield over your lead screw a DIY thing? I would like to know more. My lathe needs this!

@Xynudu

3 жыл бұрын

Those are OEM and came with the lathe. Super good and the leadscrew stays 100% clean. You do lose a bit of travel to the headstock from them, but overall they are the best thing since sliced bread. Cheers Rob

@tacticalant3841

3 жыл бұрын

xynudu - whats the make and model of your lathe? Ill see if I can buy the parts and retro fit them. Thanks for the reply!

@Xynudu

3 жыл бұрын

It's a CQ9325 but it's no longer sold. You can buy after market shields of similar design. Search on "telescopic lead screw covers".

@tacticalant3841

3 жыл бұрын

xynudu - cool, i found them at Mcmaster-Carr under “metal telescoping bellows”. Thx for the help!

Nothing to do with collect chucks but perhaps as much a convenience in its own way . Have you thought of going the full hog and replacing the catch plate on your lathe with a tray.Made out of colourbond flat tin plate ,perhaps,quickly made up as three sides ( 2cm is plenty high) to extend from the front of the carriage to overhang the rear of the carriage. Easily held in place, or removed by one small bolt and one or two swishes with a brush removes all accumulated turnings to fall into the lathe tray. No more turnings on the lead screw cover either or the lathe bed ways. regards Ray

@Xynudu

4 жыл бұрын

Hi Ray, I have both my lathes mounted on spanning beam lathe stands and all cuttings fall well clear of the lathe ways and leadscrew. The simple traveling plate deflects 95% of all cuttings past the ways and you rarely have to remove them. It is also as low a profile as is possible, so chuck clearance is optimal. It is non magnetic so cleaning up with a magnet can be done. It works as well as any system I've ever seen, so I won't be changing it any time soon. Thanks for the suggestion though. Cheers Rob

G/day Rob does it have a Thread chaser Dial I need to start learning to cut treads.

@Xynudu

4 жыл бұрын

No. You can still cut threads without one. You just have to keep the half nuts closed and reverse the leadscrew to keep position. Cheers Rob

@garyhall867

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks Rob