Thanks for your very interesting and useful video! I made the capacitor replacement and also that “hdmi out off” setting, it works perfectly now, after cracks and pops every time I turned it on! Dan, sound engineer

I loved that smirk at the end. "I will know where to look next time"

Hi Eclectronics, THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU!!! What a FANTASTIC video. We have a Marantz NR1501 with the a sound problem and we found your KZread video and watched it over 4 times. You did a lot of work on the video and we thank you immensely for all your hard work, please don't change anything, it's the Best! We followed exactly your instructions and we replaced the cap 1604 and the other cap (200uf-6v) beside it with 2x220uf 10v capacitors after carefully removing the on-board dried out caps. Put it back together again, turned it on and it worked first time, what a great video you've put together and we thought we'd write and tell you. Now here's another receiver we have if you can find one, and put up a video on the repair of one... It's a Denon AVR 788, great machine but ours had sound output in only one channel and HDMI was not working. If you ever manage to put up a video repairing one of these we'd be very very thankful, and show our appreciation to your efforts more tangibly . In the meantime thank you for your video. our Marantz NR1501 works great now:) ps: We also subscribed to your channel:)

@Eclectronicschannel

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you for your kind comments! If the videos help reduce landfill I'm very happy :)

@rolli6243

3 жыл бұрын

@@Eclectronicschannel Thank you Eclectronics, for all your help, that’s awesome! BUT HELP!!! After replacing cap 1604, I broke accidentally off the connector from the -ve side so I just ran a link to the --ve side on the next cap. - Ran fine for a while:) I later ran into another problem and had to replace with a new cap on 1601. Again, ran fine for a while:) Now I’m snookered and stumped:( After many cups of teas (a must for watching your videos), let me explain what I get now… When I plug on the unit the red circle comes up on NP. When I switch on the unit (still on FM mode from last shut down), I get no sound, but when I select with the dial to the BLU-RAY selection and then go back to select FM - it works, WIERD??? So do not know why I am not getting HDMI anymore. Is it another cap, or (even worse could it be an IC?) I’m a newbie at this so please be gentle, can you help please? Any ideas? Thanks again:) Wish I could send photos (sigh)

I had an amp years ago and one day after coming home from school, I went and turned it on and there was no audio on one channel. I got my multi meter, scope out, I'll find it. It ended up being the balance knob had somehow been turned to one side. I got a kick out of it and looked at it as a learning experience. As far as amps go (from my experience), if there is a low hum, it's a good indicator of the caps being bad, not always though, but I check for ac level on dc line. They go through a lot of thermal cycling, it stresses solder joints, another good place to look. Good video.

@Eclectronicschannel

3 жыл бұрын

There are often wild goose chases in fault finding but they all add to your experience. I agree with what you are saying about the caps, measuring AC on them is a good indicator if you know what it should be...

I didn’t realize that av receivers are THAT complex. Wow!

I have the exact same problem. Once I get it on the bench, I'll see. Thanks for the great video.

I wish you’d make more vids they’re excellent

Brilliant video

Thank you. Good job.

Good video. Thanks for going thru a lot. Got some ideas for mine. I bought my nr1501 from ebay thinking it'd be easy to fix. Complaint was static in the audio channels. I confirmed this upon checking it out. But there are other problems, like the HDMI board draws too much power. IC201 (13V unreg to 5V reg) is burning hot. So I pulled out the hdmi board and powered it from a lab supply. Sure enough, the 5V line draws over 2A. The AK4588 got really hot. Then discovered that IC1007 (switcher) didn't work, and replaced it. Then powered it up again, powers up ok, audio passes, but quickly got a burning smell from something. Too bad all of the functional chips are on the underside of the hmdi board so that I could hv at least touched them. Could be the AK4588 that got damaged for good. Just now with the board out of the chassis, I measured a few ohms on the 3V3_IN (actually 13V unregulated). I will inspect further with better equip at work tomorrow. Maybe it's just one of the 1117 linear regs that burned too.

@Eclectronicschannel

4 жыл бұрын

The AK4588 failure appears to be a common one from when I researched for fixing this one. You could take it off and then check the power rails for any oscillation or incorrect voltages, then replace with a new IC. Alternatively, there are plenty of faulty units around and often turn up for sale for cheap. Buy one and make one good unit out of two bad ones perhaps?

@gman76utube

4 жыл бұрын

@@Eclectronicschannel I powered the board separately and found the AK4588 to draw a lot of current. I'll need to buy another chip, probably from HK or China. Re: the 5V linear reg, I'll replace it w/ a switcher that fits into the TO220 socket. The design problem is that the secondary voltage is much too high. The 7805 has 14V in, and with 9V across it times the load current, you have 4 or 5W of power being dissipated. This is likely the reason for all the premature failures people report in reviews (such as Amazon). This still, though, doesnt explain the AK4588 failure. For a few days I was chasing my tail before taking the main board out and testing it. I say this b/c the front display would not power up at all. I thought I killed one of the MCUs. Then I remembered the two-button reset, Menu-RightArrow. But that didnt work. I pressed a lot of combinations until Display-RightArrow worked. The front display showed CURR 0. Then I power cycled, and everything came back! The audio works. No crackling noises. Played it really loud to see if I could induce any problems, but no. Everything good. I'm still pretty sure that the power supplies have something to do with it. Now to replace the AK4588. Update: a couple weeks ago, finally rec'd AK4588 chip. I needed help to remove old one, a couple pads lifted, not a problem as these were NC pins. Soldered down new chip, powered it from bench supply, success! Current draw from 5V was

Very much useful video.Thanks a lot..

good video can u put up the number of the capacitor you used to replace the bad one thanks

I have one if these on the work bench with similar symptoms...I'll try the HDMI out menu trick first, thanks!

I like to much your clear english ( i am italian ) Super!!!

Nice video. I have a SR6008 with a problem in the amplifier section. Do you have a service manual? I am willing to pay you for a copy. Thanks in advance,

Tnx bro it’s work to the Marantz nr 1501 press the button menu+right arrow to reset

great sir

Hi thanks for the video.A practical question. Tried to remove the HDMI board from a NR1504. You wiggle using screwdriver. But the NR1504 board sits tight. The connectors have notches to lock. Is ther a special tool or something to release these notches. When I use more force I am afraid I will break the board.

@Eclectronicschannel

4 жыл бұрын

Without seeing the connectors it is hard to comment. Some connectors require the release of a latch of some sort and others are friction fit. If gentle persuasion doesn’t work then post a picture and I’ll see if I can identify it.

Excelente saludos desde México

i have one if i mute the hdmi for 10-20 sec the sound is gone for 2.30 minutes

My problem is he doesn’t turn on but the red light is blinking for the standby button tnx

Hi, Very nice video. Thank you for this. After searching the service manual, which is very use full, I still can't track my problem. What happend is that when I plugin a HDMI (doesn't matter which input) I'm getting a full line level +/-1kHz pulse signal on my speakers I checked all the regulators, they seem to be fine. It sounds to my there is a switch or clock circuit closed with the audio path. Do you have any thoughts of where to look in the service manual?

@Eclectronicschannel

4 жыл бұрын

Very difficult to speculate on that as I haven’t seen it myself but it could be bad electrolytic capacitors around the HDMI switching section causing data corruption. Do other inputs, like optical/co-axial work ok? If they do then the DSP and CODEC are ok at least, suggesting it’s confined to the HDMI section.

Hi sir, I'm facing same issue from my marantz 1501 .. so can you please share the value of both capacitor you use ...

@walisaleem

Жыл бұрын

Your help will save my Marantz 🙏🙂

Boa tarde , esses modelos da marantz nr slim costumam dar muito problema ? Estou pensando em comprar o NR 1710! Obrigado !

@Eclectronicschannel

4 жыл бұрын

Hi Eduardo, it’s difficult for me to comment on other models but all the 17xx models probably have the same issue. After a few years the capacitors that have been hot will need replacing.

@eduardozimmer9351

4 жыл бұрын

Obrigado pelo retorno , mas isso vale para todos receiver ou somente a linha slim tem mais chance de dar problemas ! Thanks my friend

hello ; please can you help me ? i have this machine at home and he can't start he give me a boutom red when i start it

@Eclectronicschannel

4 жыл бұрын

These units do have a latching fault state which prevents operation. Do a KZread search for “reset the marantz NR-1501” and you will find the procedure for resetting the unit.

@gman76utube

4 жыл бұрын

@@Eclectronicschannel Yes, try either Menu-RightArrow or Display-RightArrow and you need to press buttons within 5 sec of powering up.

friend .. I want to buy the Marantz nr1501 .. what do you think about it?

Please more videos ,I am your91st subscriber

I just bought the NR1710 No sound from the FM source. It finds all the locals but no sound. The AM tuner has sound. WTF brand new doa out of the box.

@Eclectronicschannel

4 жыл бұрын

That’s an odd one. Return it to the shop!