About ten years ago, I was offered a 'working' generator by a little old lady who was selling her caravan, it looked fairly unused and all she wanted was £40 so I said yes, but I got it home, found something on the electrical panel was damaged, and the engine just wouldn't start, so I applauded the devious shrewdness of the old lady, chucked it in the shed and forgot about it. Now I know NOTHING about these things, but with all the threats of blackouts, I figure I might as well get it out, and have a look at getting it running as a back up, because I sure as hell can't make a non running thing any more non running than it is already, so this video has come at just the right time to inspire me and gives me plenty to look at... lol

@FishFind3000

Жыл бұрын

There’s a great channel that only repairs generators called “james condon”. He will get you pointed in the right direction

@colinwalker7204

Жыл бұрын

@@FishFind3000 nice one, cheers for that.

@tracybowling1156

Жыл бұрын

oOoOO! I really hope you figure it out. It's another mystery! 😀

@lordjaashin

Жыл бұрын

its really bizarre to see Americans gearing up for blackouts like poor countries, considering that US is developed country and world superpower. damn, biden what a fine mess you have created

@colinwalker7204

Жыл бұрын

@@lordjaashin I'm in the UK, but I feel your pain

You’re brave enough to not cover up your mistakes, but use them as a learning tool for yourself and us too..bravo 🙌

I've been a small engine mechanic for many years, and believe me I couldn't have been much faster. I Probably would have installed a new carburetor sooner, but only because my working hours are too expensive to tinker around with a carburetor for a long time. Well done! Greetings from Switzerland

@swedishpsychopath8795

Жыл бұрын

Do you mean you fix coo-coo clocks?

@jimw6991

Жыл бұрын

In most cases I really like your thought process working to figure out what's going on. You said engine was running choked when warm and intermittent spark. These are separate and unrelated problems and both must be fixed. Once weak magneto was replaced your low oil circuit was grounding spark and by disconnecting it you created steady spark. As you tried to solve your fuel/carb issues you lost it. Your carb wouldn't allow engine to run w/o choke ... that means it is dirty and jets, orifices and passages likely clogged. On one of your videos you mentioned James Condor, he has many high quality videos explaining how to disassemble clean and adjust these small carbs ... I think ultrasonic is a must. Carb cleaners aren't what they used to be. Main thing is perfectly clean. You talked about air leaks around throttle shaft or elsewhere ... to rule that out use heavy weight oil squirted on the area to temporarily seal it. If engine runs better that proves that there is a leak. On auto engines you use technique while watching vacuum gage to find air leaks. I doubt this was your problem ... you could see crud in the old carb float bowl you showed during the teardown, again main thing is clean. I have a Generac 5500, went to use it and it ran better partially choked even hot. I ran it like this for about 4 days until power came on. Then got unit serviced including carb cleaning. Runs good now.

Multiple problems always takes a lot of time to fix. Good job.

@bobbygetsbanned6049

Жыл бұрын

Yup, don't assume it's just one thing that's wrong.

Man I look forward to ever episode you put out.

@timfagan816

Жыл бұрын

Same, I've literally transferred from the day shift at my job to night shift. Just so I don't have to wait all day and night for a n upload. As soon as I finish night shift. Drive home and walk through the door. He's uploaded. Quick shower then hop into bed. Watching these then fall asleep. Perfect 👌

@DC_DC_DC_DC

Жыл бұрын

@@timfagan816 nice dude 😎

@brianchrisman4331

Жыл бұрын

Haha me too, binging hard since finding this channels 3 weeks ago

Mate, I love how you adjusted the sound of your video. The talking was clear and the generator sound was turned down. Truly a jack of all trades. Cheers from Brisbane Au

20:30 also spray the choke and throttle shaft as sometimes the bushings inside will allow air through.

@j.w.perkins6004

Жыл бұрын

I learned this trick years ago from a certified Ford Tech. It has found many bad carb/choke bushings!

@royb.1441

Жыл бұрын

Yep, I have had several carbs give me issues from being worn out in the throttle shaft & or choke shaft

Hey, thanks for lowering the gain when the generator was running. Love your content too!

@jasongreene303

Жыл бұрын

I am grateful he doesn't have music, especially when it's 10dB too loud.

@ArmchairDeity

Жыл бұрын

YES! I hate it when creators can’t figure out how to apply a little compression…

@fetus2280

Жыл бұрын

Nice innit ? As s producer/musician/audiophile it wears me out when "creators" dont adjust the audio .. it isnt that difficult to add a compressor/limiter or at the bare min Turn it Down .

Great video! Just a little pointer when you shut the fuel off, the generator was still under load (heater was glowing) when the engine cut out, for generators that rely on residual magnetism for excitation this can weaken the field and cause low/no voltage issues. It’s normally an easy fix but it just best practice to take the load off before killing the engine 👍

@Watchyn_Yarwood

Жыл бұрын

Excellent point!

Not suggesting that this was your problem, but often when I have to run partial choke I find that the main jet has a very small buildup in the orifice. I have a set of #61-80 drills and I typically can twist a drill in there by hand that pulls the crud out of the orifice but is not removing parent material. If the drill isn't exactly to size, your can use it as a file to clean it out the rest of the way. A tiny hole, even with a few tenths of buildup can be an issue. It has worked for me many times now. Keep up the good work.

@curiousmike1044

Жыл бұрын

What he said. ⬆

I picked up one of those little ignition spark testers and it came in handy one day. I had a new chainsaw that wouldn't start, taking the ignition wire to ground looking for the spark jump proved the ignition was firing yet no engine run. Because the spark tester is inline with the spark plug the tester quickly showed there was no spark. Yep, it was a brand new plug but brand new doesn't mean working. Changed the spark plug and its been runing since.

“Definitely likes being choked” Never know I had so much in common with a generator

Some tips/tricks when working on small engines. A small neon bulb tied with one leg to the metal chassis, and with other leg to the rubber/silicone jacket of the sparkplug cable, will also light up. Sparkplug cables (even new) have enough leakage to light up a small neon bulb, because such a small neon bulb needs only a few µA to light up. This can be made very cheaper then the commercial sparkplug testers. Regarding the magneto coil (spark module) you used a playcard to leave the gap between the coil and magnet, that is fine, but in reality, the distance between the magneto coil and magnet does 2 things. 1) The closer the gap, the more powerfull spark you get, the greater the gap, the less powerfull spark. 2) this gap has also a little influence on the ignition timing. That being said, there is much more involved with this gap distance. As i mentioned, the closer the gap, the more powerfull the spark will be, but here is the catch. With a very tight gap, the gas throttle response is much better, and on 2 stroke engines (like chainsaw etc...), you hear a difference in sounding and you have more power and this is all good you think, but in reality you are slowly killing your entire ignition system. When this gap is to close, you have lots more of socalled Eddy currents, this Eddy currents heat up the guts of a ignition coil and in extreme cases melts the insulation on the copper wire and will evently intermittenly shortout. And things get even worse, when the gap is to close, not only the ignition coil will overheat, also the entire aluminium flywheel will heat up, including the magnet, and eventually the magnet will loose his magnetism when overheated. This lost in magnetism will weaker the spark strenght, and many people will make the gap even closer (if possible) and the total breakdown continues. Also when this gap is closer, the RPM starts to drop, because the attraction between the magneto and magnet works as a break, and on engines where the bolts of the flywheel cover are close to the flywheel (in less then 2cm) it's best to use stainless bolts/screws for this cover.

Love small engine (>500cc) teardowns and diagnoses. I have a 7hp garden shredder, 500cc lawnmower, 4200kw genny, a hedge trimmer and a chainsaw, a mixture of 2-stroke and 4 stroke, and they all need to be fussed over and loved from time to time but what I really love about it is that it's all down to logic, trial and error. That's how my dad taught me to look after and work on my Lambretta 200 back in the day. Cool video to watch and glad you got it sorted eventually. And, yeah, those mickey mouse carbs are dirt cheap and that's what I would have done as well.

Somewhere I learned that it helps to remove any rust or filth of your magnet and coil to help the magnetic flux flow more properly. Good job fixing that generator, I just fixed mine that acted up as well, It had a carb issue with a primerbowl vacuum leak.

How did you acquire all this knowledge to fix things?? Was it trial and error??Did you go to school for engineering?? What do you do for a living? You are really impressive..

John, please remember the complete expression: A Jack of all trades and master of none, but still better always than a master of one!

@evilkidd174

Жыл бұрын

Unless you work on a fishing boat as a Master Baiter. Thank you, thank you, I'll be here all week.

@fritzmiller9792

Жыл бұрын

Never heard the second half of that saying,and it gives me pause to completely agree with it....but then it is just a saying.

🎯 non-ethanol...just did a trip to the local (40 miles) small airfield to refill all my jerry cans...$6.50 a gallon, but worth it to me. Great content, very interesting FC101

Wow! Excellent job and great repair! vert well done. Some info for you... These carburettors have very narrow internal channels that become clogged, notably the idle circuit. The Tecumseh carbs can be a particular pain. If you know how to clean them properly they are perfectly fine. Even though the carb may look clean internally (clean bowl, clean main jet etc..) the internal passages can be blocked and nearly impossible to clean. This is a classic symptom of what was happening with yours. The ONLY way I get them to come back when they are this stubborn is with the ultrasonic cleaner. Some times they have to sit for a good few hours in there. The combination of near boiling hot cleaner, and the ultrasonic energy is the only thing that can break up the crud in to those passages. If the flange/surface where the bowl gasket seals is pitted or corroded, it must be cleaned to a near smooth finish with brass wire wheel and possibly wet sand paper. Same goes for the bowl it self. The bowl gaskets almost always need to be replaced on these cabs as they dry out and crack. It will certainty leak air around the bowl gasket. There is not much variation in these Tecumseh carburettors, just what ever horse power motor they were designed for. The older models like the original one you had featured an adjustable low speed idle mixture screw as well as main jet screw. The new aftermarket one you replaced it with was the standard fixed jet with non adjustable low speed idle jet (not a mixture screw!) This jet often becomes clogged and needs to be poked through with a thin piece of wire as I saw some one else mention in a comment below.

I love your gap gauge for the ignition coil and flywheel magnet. I was taught to use the cardboard from the ignition points. Yes, that was back when engines had points and you had to pull the flywheel to get the points. We also cleaned the magnet and the ignition coil to get rid of spark robbing rust. A little rust goes a long way in creating sparking issues. As for your shut down process. I professionally mowed for ten years. I used 10% ethanol all those years with no problems in any of the equipment. At the end of the season, fuel was emptied out of all the tanks. Fuel conditioner was added to the fuel, put back into each tank and the engines were warmed up. Then I shut them down exactly as you did. Plus, I emptied the tanks of all fuel, and ran the engines again until the sputtered and died. In 10 years I never had trouble with any 2-cycle or 4-cycle engine starting up in the spring. The repair shop couldn't believe how I never had engine or carb trouble. First because I was using ethanol and second also using low octane gas in the 16HP and 20HP mowers, weed eaters, edgers and chainsaws instead of mid-grade. Not that I'm out of the business I do spring for the mid-grade for the one weed eater and 2 chainsaws. I still run 10% ethanol in my one mower now. But I'm not supporting 8 weed eaters and 2 edgers anymore!

@artk6177

Жыл бұрын

I recently replaced a coil on a Honda. Couldn't find my feeler gauge. Gap called for .015-.018. Another guy in the shop told me to use a business card. I measured one that had recently been left by an insurance salesman; .016. Worked! The reason a card works so nice is that you can flex it to set both sides at the same time. My feeler gauge would force me to do one side at a time. Turns out many business cards are .016 (called 16pt or 16 point), but they can be anywhere from .012 to .032 thick. Also, some cards have pretty thick ink, so I'd measure first. Ultimately, I cleaned up my tool box and found my feeler gauge.

I think you did everything you had to do to diagnose the problem. But, ultimately it was the carb. Possibly it was sucking air on the choke shaft from the side. But, you did a great job. Love your stuff. It benefits us all. 👍🔧🇬🇧

I literally had the same problem this week. Ordered up a new ignition unit and and carb. The carb had a lot of rust inside the bowl and choke, so I decided $15 was faster and cheaper than trying to fiddle with it. This video has confirmed and given me more confidence in my decisions on how to fix my small engine issue.

I admire your patience!

Thanks for the video, always enjoy watching!

Getting it done! Good job.

Awesome class! Thanks!

Great job, Sir!!!

Love these repair videos!

Good afternoon & thank you for the info

I fixed a weedeater that someone else worked on first. It ran then died. After way too long of a time I saw the brand new plug that had good spark was a non resistor plug. I pulled a used resistor plug out of a junk weedeater and it ran fine. Non resistor plugs will kill the ignition intermittently make sure there is a R in the part number if you ever have a problem like that

I remember "helping" my grandfather fix a small engine when I was a very young boy in the late '60s. I ended up being his spark plug tester--"here, hold this for a minute... nope, it has spark!"

@chasingcapsaicin

Жыл бұрын

LOL

@Adamski727

Жыл бұрын

😅

Great video John, great video.

My new favorite day of the week is when we get a new FarmCraft video 💪

I really enjoy your channel. Thanks for the videos and saving my ears with your editing volume control. 👍👍

So funny how parallel our struggles are! 😂 On that carb, there's a small aluminum disc opposite the needle seat under the float. Use a small drill bit with a depth limiter on it to drill it out enough for an allen wrench to fit and pry that loose. The fuel flow issue will become apparent as there is another filter screen behind that. The carb kits often come with these screens and discs. Seat the disc with a brass drift. 👍

@michaelschmitz8028

Жыл бұрын

That's called a Welch plug.

Thanks, very informative!

I love the way you process a problem, like a flow chart in your mind. I learned a few tricks, thanks

I like the suggestion to spray for leaks n listen to rpm. I always keep a spray bottle with gas for troubleshooting

I am about half way through and I noticed you are outside in the new shed roof addition you built. Hooray! How nice it is to use something you built to help you work better and easier.

14:54 the low circuit supples fuel to all rpms, high side only does the high rpm. You can test this when a small 2 stroke. Hold it wide open and then start messing with that low speed.

Great video thanks for sharing

thanks i have same choke problem with old honda engine on concrete mixer. Now i can fix it . love your content

No matter the topic, I always learn something from you and your channel. Thank you for having one of the best channels on YT. Matt

I would have fought this one pretty much the way you did. Intermittent fails are a difficult problem. I worked in maintenance for a number of years. I developed the habit of temporarily bypassing the safety circuit from the machine to test for operation. There are so many failure points in an E Stop circuit you can spend a lifetime trying to track them down replacing components. Watching your video I'm recognizing part of the troubleshooting issue with magneto engines is not having a consistent power supply to check the circuit. With a continuity checker on the low oil safety switch the light would be off at normal oil level, on at low oil level, and you can travel up the circuit to the magneto. If only it didn't have everything packed in under the shroud and flywheel. ☹ Hindsight is 20/20. I have the advantage of looking at the last 5 or 10 minutes of your video before I start commenting and saying "There's Yer Problem!" Love the thought process you go through. 😁😎

Great job. Was educational and engaging as I watched you figured it out! Nice work.

Have one just like it torn apart setting on the bench . Thanks for the inspiration to get back to work on it 👍👍👍👍

I enjoyed the video and learned a bit. Thanks for busting open the old carb.

Good job!

Good work ❤

A worn throttle shaft can also be a sneaky place for a vacuum leak.

@philliphall5198

Жыл бұрын

Seems intake manifold and carb gasket most likely

I had a Power King yard tractor with a rusty gas tank. Trying to finish a garden with no time for a proper fix, I had to stop plowing several times every 30-40 mins to clean the bowl out, the last 10 mins it would only run full choke. It's often hard to find time (or remember) to fix things in between the times you need to be using them, so bravo on staying ahead. Also I need an in-line spark tester and I didn't know. Thanks

Great video and results! As someone who, like you does not work on the little engines very often, I think you did a great job!

Thank you so much for turning down the volume during loud engine stuff!

I allways go with the strategy that there is only one problem. But when I try to fix something thet has been running with a problem and another one appears I get a bit lost... :D Thank's for your great content that you produce, it's allways a happy moment when a new video from you appears in the list, :)

Great content!

Great video! I love the way you work. Just gods honest truth. Thanks for sharing. Take care from Canada eh!

Great job again John. Too many little problems added up to make it hard to figure out, but you got it. 👍 Thanks for sharing. I have a generator I have to choke part way to run also. I should go ahead and replace it.

Been watching your channel for a while now . Your a very determined person . You never give up . Great skills on explaining showing everything step by step . Great content and really enjoy watching . I use too have more problems with engines owning all types of equipment . The best thing I ever did one day was made a decision too buy a filtered funnel and start useing gas line anti freeze and a squirt of Lucas fuel treatment in every fuel tank fill up in every engine I own all year round . I also started shutting the fuel off like you did and running things dry that where not going too be used all the time . I have never ever had a problem with any of my equipment anymore . No more varnish / water / or poor gas from sitting also . I just turn on the fuel from what Im going too use like a generator or log splitter that has been sitting long time and usally one or two pulls and I’m up and running. I don’t know what they put in Lucas or other similar products but it really has changed everything for better around here 👍👍

I've been down thus road before, but not with your knowledge. . Thanks for teaching me .

Another great one. Love the "click" on the manual torque wrench. Also, an interesting natural frequency on the assembly as it heaves slightly every 1-1.25 seconds.

I really enjoy your videos

I got rid of every Tecumseh Engine I had. Those Carbs were nothing but problems. My Moms Fathers 1970's Bolens 1256-02 has a Wisconsin TRA-12D and it is the sweetest running Engine I own . No points or Condenser to deal with either. Just 3 pick-up Coils inside the Flywheel to an Common Ignition Coil grounded through the Ignition Switch. Thanks Mike M. Wausau Wisconsin.

Very helpful video. Thanks a million! Subscribed.

Great video love your farm so cool

Good job on fixing the generator. I watch James Condon almost all of his videos and do not think he would have done any better. With the high likelyhood of electricity and fuel shortages in Europe this winter I believe a good generator will be worth its weight in gold. Imagine a house on the grid with a freezer full of food and power outages of several days. A generator would be very valuable. I love to watch you fix tools and machines and am just thankful I don't have to do that any more since I am 77 and happy to be there.

I love this little generator. So easy to use

100% warn out shafts sucking in air. It happened to me. All the parts are tired and warned out so when under stress it will fail or under perform. Bravo you fix it !!!!!!!

Wow, another great video. I hope one day you will post more than once a week. By far your are the best you tuber! Thank you for your videos.

Good stuff

As always, another thumbs up!

Good video! Over the years and I don't know how many carburetors I figured out that there Comes A Time to just go ahead and replace it after you've taken it apart and cleaned it half a dozen times. I think an ultrasonic cleaner is probably the best way to do it. But carburetors are so cheap nowadays that it just makes sense to replace it. Your time is money as well.

Good Stuff!

I see two options. I could take it to a repair shop. Or I could just go buy a new one. You did well. What you did was way above my pay grade.

@Boobtube.

Жыл бұрын

he said, he did buy a new one... But still wanted to try and get this to work again.

Well done.

As I am an addict to these type videos I've seen other youtubers tackle such problems. Mustie1 is a favorite and I've seen him overhaul carburetors many times. There are frequently tiny pinhole metering ports in the side of the jet tube which he cleans with tiny wire. They are so small it would be easy to miss them and fail to clean them out. Such clogged pinhole ports could cause fuel starvation when the choke is not mostly engaged, such as in this case. This was an interesting problem and your solution was spot on. A fun and informative presentation. Thanks for posting.

Great detective work. I've been there several times!! After a while I can get grey cell fatigue messing with a problem and just simmer on the problem for a bit. That sometimes helps me.

@FarmCraft101

Жыл бұрын

Same. Sometimes if I find myself getting frustrated, I have to step away. Later I'll find myself thinking through the problem with new ideas.

I know exactly what was wrong with the original carb. On the main jet/bowl nut (the brass piece) there is a VERY small port on the side, right above the threads that goes down at an angle and exits in the middle where the needle screws into. It's extremely small, like maybe the width of a couple human hairs. Don't feel bad that you didn't see it, if you didn't know it was there you would never notice it. I've taken probably a hundred of those carbs apart and 100% of the time, if they're having issues, that port is plugged. I usually clean it out with a single strand from a wire brush. I would bet you a beer that if you take that carb apart, find that port and clean it out, it'll run good with that carb too. Otherwise good work! I really enjoy your channel!

Thanks for the video John. I have a generator that's been sitting for a few years in the garage that I've been dreading to see if it would run. Fat chance it would. Your video gives me some good things to check.

New to your channel enjoy watching the jack of all trades accomplish his tasks.

I didn't watch the rebuild video but just a few suggestions. Under those aluminum disks inside the carb, are usually a screen filter and they are RARELY every cleaned, cause those disks are pretty much a one time thing and unless you get a factory kit, they are hard to find. Also, the air bleed ports in the front of the carb(air filter side) are often overlooked. But you got it, no harm no fowl, just a few suggestions. Love your content

9/13/22. 2day watched u troubleshoot & replace both carb & coil...after much time re-testing each..intermittant..problem area. I too have had same experiences & finally changed both & bingo..rngine runs 👍 great! Thx for showing everyone the bottom line...get both new carb & new coil & get back to work💪🛠⚙🙂

I would have probably started with the new carb, and gotten frustrated with the intermittent ignition from the oil sensor thing. You did good there figuring it out. Oh, and I can’t tell you how many times I too was late in looking for an air leak only to find it was the throttle shaft causing the lean condition.

An interesting process. Sometimes the logical analysis defies a direct solution. We have a small farm with lots of small engines. Some years ago, we made a policy decision to only fuel the small engines with stabilized fuel to counter the long periods of inactivity of some devices. Overall, this has increased the ability of the small engines.

Hello from the Netherlands! I enjoy your videos a lot! Thanks for all the efford. I could not resist to post my opinion about the relation Fuelmixture / Spark. If a fuelmixture is very lean, the sparkplug needs a much higher voltage to let the electricity flow between the electrodes. Thats because there are less fuel molecules between the (isolating) air molecules to conduct the electricity. That's why spark related issues will appear faster on a mixture issue. Sorry for my poor English, but I hope I can express my thoughts on this. Best regards and wish you all the best, Peter

Those Tecumseh engines are tough, tough engines to fix sometimes! A buddy of mine told me to use a metal guitar string to clean jets out on carb's. Thought I would pass that along. Great video!

@xtr3m3fLx

Жыл бұрын

Torch tip cleaner. :)

I wasn't even 1 minutes into the video when I noticed what your problem was with the generator... its a tecumseh! Sheeesh, what a boat anchor. I can fix Briggs, Hondas just run so never a problem there but I have never been able to get a tecumseh working again once it has stopped or started giving me troubles. Now with that said, I'm just a country boy working on stuff and not a mechanic so hats off to ya (and a bow) for a job well done on fixing that thing. You are a better man than me. Keep up the food work and love your videos. You ALWAYS have something for me to watch and learn from, like how to fix a stupid tecumseh motor. 😄

I watched the whole video and an idea poped up in my head that i should fix my kawasaki kx60 that has not run in at least 5 years so i hope i get it running, thanks for the motivation!

You're not alone. I should have gotten that carb you got ($10 on ebay) but I didn't. I'm waiting for the $24 rebuild kit I ordered yesterday. Mine is a 8HP tecumseh (carb NLA) on my log splitter. The ebay carbs aren't anything like my 640215 carb. Wish me luck because - like yours - mine is sucking air someplace internally. It ran OK with the choke 1/2 on.

@philliphall5198

Жыл бұрын

Probably dirty main jet stopped up or filter inlet pipe

I found out that brake cleaner works as a pretty good starting fluid. Can use it keep an engine running.

really agree that it's annoying that problems happen only occasionally. our excavator gave flow sometimes when it is not supposed to give flow to the implement that is on. the fault was the lever. it wasn't cheap. it was only a small button that could not be replaced, without changing the whole lever. I think it went for $800 just for the leaver. Love your videos!

Thumbs up for the unexpected daytime bear.

Way to stay with it 👍🏻

That HM100 is actually a pretty good engine. I still have the same one on one of my log splitters, it's now almost 30 years old and still runs just like the day we purchased it. Always kept inside and changed the oil every season. I was gifted a generator EXACTLY like the one you have, 100% the same, there is actually a video about it on my channel and let's just say, I didn't have the same outcome as you did. I wish I did. Sometimes trouble shooting these small engines is super easy and other times it's a challenge like with yours, but at least you have a good backup generator now.

I'm ½way through and have the same 10hp generator and experience the same issues. In my case the combination of problems keeping it from running were: 1. An intermittent short on the wire that runs around the head and goes to the shutoff. I also found a bare section near the oil sensor, but that wasn't shorting out. 2. The second major issue, and why I needed the chock on partway was the main jet was oxidizing and had "grown" a layer of "fuzz" on the metal. To fix it I took a small drill bit and ran it through the main jet. I didn't actually remove any good metal but just some of the fuzzy oxidized growth. After those two fixes I've continued to have issues with a leaky fuel pump (it runs on crank pulses), but other than that it has powered our home many times during power outages.

I like you farm crafting man. I think a lot like you. I've said for a long time there is NOTHING I can't fix. Excepr Ignition coils can't be fixed. Theres like 3 or 4 other things that nobody can fix. And I never liked be called a tinkerer. Tinkering is what amateurs do. I'm more of a professional. Always keeping an opened mind and always always learning new things. Everyday.

Love these videos, it shows that I'm not the only one dealing with this crap

@FarmCraft101

Жыл бұрын

Lol

Small engines are so elegantly designed....repairs can drive you completely batty! When they work, they work great. When they don't, they can be a real headache. Had problems with my last lawnmower. Turns out, ethanol ate the fuel line and then the battery wasn't spinning the engine fast enough to fire it. Fuel and fire!

I've been working on small engines for the last 10 years. I would always spray the carburetor out with carb cleaner and it usually worked then i went and bought an ultrasonic cleaner and it does a good job on cleaning carburetors

From not knowing anything about engines, I now know checking fuel delivery, checking for spark and cleaning the carb is the first things you do. I love your attitude! Find out what's wrong by trial, error and checking one thing at a time, repair or replace. I will strive to apply this to my own life! Thank you.

@Rorschach1024

Жыл бұрын

Carburetor problems are the issue 85-90% of the time

@shade38211

Жыл бұрын

@@Rorschach1024 Ethanol has really helped that percentage. Most these carbs and coil packs are 15-20 bucks on Amazon.

I’ve been very impressed with Lucas fuel treatment to prevent fuel souring. Unintentional long term testing was unintentionally done. It won’t stop damage from alcohol added fuels so alcohol free is best in all intermittently used engines