SIMPLY solder a wire to the internal earth-pin of the supply socket. Have this wire then pass to a crimping ring-connector, soldered in place over one of the rear lid-mounting screws-holes. Thus, being trapped between the rear-plate and the lid when the case is closed, it will adequately provide grounding of the casing. CASE CLOSED ! THANKS tho fella ! We all learn from witnessing others endeavors, right ?

@EEforEveryone

3 жыл бұрын

Great idea, and as you suggested... a lot simpler. The cut edges have bare metal exposed.. perfect! The next time I find myself modding ground bonding into an iron.... actually, I should probably just buy a better iron. :) Cheers, and thanks for the great comment!

I popped mine open to chuck a neon indicator in it and didn't see any case grounding... whipped out my voltstick and sure enough! Case is coupled to mains! So did similar, drilled and tapped an M4 hole in the case (once over top of that mains filter cap, so there's an extra hole in the case now...) and stuck a preinsulated lug running to the earth pin. The tricky part was soldering with a gas iron without destroying that lovely socket assembly.

Check out the large heatsink extending from the mains side to the secondary side, completely destroying all attempts at isolation. The corner rests right on the trace next to the mains bulk capacitor. Separated only by a thin layer of solder mask... Oh and if you run the version where the logic board has R10 running from battery voltage to ground.. that will drain the battery in a few weeks. Just remove the resistor :)

@EEforEveryone

4 жыл бұрын

Hey Pentti, Thanks for the tip! I'll have to crack this open again and take another look. That sounds scary! Perhaps swapping their power supply for a ul listed brick would be a better move. The backup battery seems to be fine in mine, it spends most of it's life unplugged and is still holding time. :) Cheers, and thanks for watching!

@Acecool

4 жыл бұрын

Actually, it is caused because the rotary encoder doesn't have the tabs foldered properly and are making contact to ground.

More important is the tip being grounded? Many switching psu 's are floating and totally safe if isolated from the case .Did you check? Grounding a device intended to be floating is in it self dangerous.

I did mine on the back panel, connected a wire underneath the board where the earth ground is soldered to the board. Then I used a Philips #2 screwdriver and twisted in the 4 screw holes on the back and removed the plating very easily. tested it and it grounded/earthed just fine right to the tip of the soldering gun.

Thank you for a great video. Safety first....the way to go. I'm about to buy this identical unit and want to add the ground bond you are showing. My question is....would it be ok to drill a hole in the Bottom and TOP of the casing...(not the side of the casing) and then have 1 bolt go from the bottom up through the top. Of course exposing all the bare metal as you did where the bolt goes through. I would then put a double nut on the bottom, like you did, then put the top back on and have a double nut on the top to assure no backing out. (the first nut tight enough to assure grounding and then holding that nut, put on the second jamb nut. - - object being not to dent or dimple-in the casing) My thought here is that it would not require any wiring (and by doing this of course I'd be adding an extra step to opening the unit in the future...that being to undo the top two nuts in addition the factory screws. So would this be an OK approach that's safe enough for use? I value your opinion and look forward to your reply. Richard

@EEforEveryone

4 жыл бұрын

Hi Richard! I'm glad you enjoyed our video! If I'm imaginating your word picture well enough, that sounds like it should work just fine! If I'm remembering correctly, you're looking for about 20 milliohms measured from the ground lug to any exposed metal, while somewhere between 20-40a is flowing. Big bolts, nuts, and lock nuts sounds like a great start. Seems like the nuts will be exposed, which could be nice (to visually see if the nuts start coming loose). It's difficult to say for sure if your suggested arrangement will pass a ground bond test, but it seems to be moving in the right direction. Watch out for the black costing on the surface of the enclosure: it has a much higher resistance than the base metal, your nuts or bolts will need to break through the coating somehow! I just scratched that off with a file. :) I hope this helps, and thanks for watching!

@pr0xZen

3 жыл бұрын

You don't mention actual ground bonding (?) - Or rather, _explicitly say_ this to avoid doing wiring. This could work, if ensuring there is good metal contact between the bolt/nuts and chassis/shell. But if going this route, you have to make sure that *_the bottom_*_ part of the shell is indeed ground bonded _*_already,_* otherwise you're just coupling two non-grounded parts. 2 times zero is still zero. If the bottom half isn't grounded, then you can do so with eg. a crimp ring connector, thread on and clamped between the chassis and nut on inside of the bottom half-shell. Personallly, on my unit, neither part of the aluminium chassis were ground bonded. So here's how i did mine: [TL;DR Sand inside for contact, ground bottom shell with ring crimp. Small piece of steel on the inside bridging the two halves. Cut threads in upper hole of steel bridge. Bolt through top half into steel piece couples the top and bottom when tightening.] First I sanded an aligning spot on the inside of both halves, on the side of the unit towards the rear (where it's not quite so cramped), to make good electrical contact there. I then cut a small rectangular piece of 2mm steel, long enough to bridge both parts of the chassis with room for a bolt going through both ends. And drilled through chassi parts and steel piece together to make sure holes align. Drilled the top half slightly smaller, then drilled out the hole in _only the top half of the chassis_ (so *not* the corresponding hole in the steel piece) about 1mm. _I then _*_cut threads_* in the "upper hole" of the steel piece. Next, I Attached the ground to the bottom half-shell with a small bolt going from the outside, through the chassi, the steel piece, then a ring connector to ground, and finally clamped that sandwich together with a nut. So now, the chassis ground is attached to the bottom half-shell with a small bolt and nut. When I put the top half-shell on, i put another bolt through the hole in the top-half. The bolt enters the threads cut in the steel piece (now on the inside), and tightening the bolt clamps the upper half-shell and the steel piece together, coupling the top and bottom through that steel piece. Now the unit has both parts of the outer chassis shell coupled together and grounded, with only two small bolt heads sticking out on the side towards the rear. Whenever needing to open it up, I just (in addition to the other standard screws) undo that one upper bolt. No wires between the top and bottom half, and it's asthetically "fine" (I used "bolts" with rounded heads and same Phillips type, so can undo all the screws with the same driver). All in all it's not so different from your idea, but this way I also avoided having anything (electrically conductive or otherwise) protruding from the top and bottom of the chassis, that stuff can snag on, or risk scratching the surface I set it on. Nor does it "dimple in" where the mount is, as chassis and steel "bridge" just clam together as a sandwich, instead of pulling together two parts with a gap between them. Apologies for the long post, I just wanted to make sure it was well and clearly explained in case someone come along in the future and would like to try/do this.

Hi, Will the warm-up time be faster if we increase the voltage of the smps source inside the soldering iron?

@EEforEveryone

3 жыл бұрын

To a point, perhaps! For the STM32-based T12 controllers, I think the output power is controlled in software. Maybe a firmware hack could unlock some extra power?

Hi there. Would that mean that the tip wasn't grounded either? I'm not sure where I sit on plastic cases. Plastic is certainly easier to think about whether it's going to cause problems with a line to case fault.

@EEforEveryone

4 жыл бұрын

Hello! In this instance the tip of this iron is floating (referenced to ckt ground, which is floating and isolated from mains). Esd who?

Thanks. I had same problem with my other JBC and with this model station.I measured around 4~5 v AC. I called JBC service, they told impossible. İ sent photos they didn't react. So i had to fix. From heater side to main ground i had to connect with a wire. I've solved. With this KSGER i measured 2.5 V AC!! I did almost like at your video. Because front and back cover screws solved. Only one problem I had to make a hole and solder to the main ground. Problem fixed. Thanks for sharing your experience with your video. 💓💓🌹🌹

@EEforEveryone

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you Elektro Dado! Yes! These irons all handle "ESD Safety" in a variety of ways. This one floats the handle (or has a very high impedance to ground), which is how currents can lead to a volt or two being dropped with respect to ground. If I remember correctly, the exposed tip of this iron is floating with respect to ground... not great! Then again... if the tip of a soldering iron is always a solid connection to ground potential, it's possible to rapidly discharge the PCB through the iron, which isn't great either! Most irons from the big names like Hakko, JBC, etc, have a specific circuit made to handle discharging electrostatic energy in a safe way. I'm surprised you saw a voltage on the tip!

Hello, In the new version (T12B) it has a rear connection with alligator clip. What is that connection for, the earth??? If it is the ground and I have nowhere to connect it, what could I do??? Can it be used without it?

they direct soldered the input to the board exactly for this reason.no wires can flap and touch the case.Otherwise it gets converted to DC and there is on negative and positive. what you've done is now make it possible for a DC circuit to connect to an ac circuits earth.. in theory the case could even act as a capacitive voltage divider. I apologize for rudeness, further in the video you acknowledge the break in isolation I wrote this before I got that far. I'd be curious what the resistance from the tip to ground is both with and without the modification.

@EEforEveryone

4 жыл бұрын

Hello West, thanks for watching! No worries about rudeness, I love making this a safe place to share ideas. I'm not sure what safety standards you are familiar with, but the ones I have studied were very specific about exactly how protective earthing should be connected to a system... And directly soldering how this soldering iron did wouldn't be sufficient, from my understanding. Funny enough, this circuit actually isolated the tip from chassis, and earth, leaving it floating!!! I've been seriously considering either tying the tip hard to earth ground or through a low-megaohm resistor. I'm not familiar enough with every app-note regarding esd safeness for soldering irons, but if you have some experience I'd be happy to hear it! I'm happy to hear your opinion, and happy New years!

@westhouse4641

4 жыл бұрын

So after some thinking, perhaps it had some function utilizing galvanic isolation, or perhaps they repurposed the circuit/PCB from another device that used more than one device in parallel inside the same enclosure, if there was no need for ground to begin with and its been repurposed then the people making it don't know. How isolated is the ac side from the case after the IEC connector/switch? Might also be interesting to check continuity of output pins for the iron to the case. Correct me if I'm wrong, the only danger to user of the case shorting to ground would have to be on ac side right? Might also check the supplied power cable, if its 2 conductor with just a facade on the plug ends that'd could explain it lol

@EEforEveryone

4 жыл бұрын

@@westhouse4641 Hi West House, The danger of a floating metal enclosure comes from a fault condition causing a live conductor become inadvertently connected to the enclosure. Tying the enclosure chassis to earth ground provides a safe return path for that fault current, preventing electrocution. The isolation between mains and circuit ground is established in the AC-DC power supply, which doesn't come with obvious ratings. I would expect this barrier to withstand at least 2kV, but it should be designed to withstand significantly more if it is designed to accept 240VAC as an input. Withstand voltage for an isolation barrier can be tested using a HIPOT test. Ground was originally connected to the power supply module (for the input filter) , but this does not provide sufficient protection against inadvertent connection of a live conductor to the metal chassis. I hope this helps, and thanks for watching!

@westhouse4641

4 жыл бұрын

EEforEveryone perhaps I'm not properly explaining myself, here is a video regarding full bridge rectifiers. kzread.info/dash/bejne/pX1pqNamYZDQmc4.html now imagine the oscilloscope ground probe is the case. both a path to ground along the power cord.

@westhouse4641

4 жыл бұрын

EEforEveryone upon rewatching I'm a bit confused what you mean when you say a gfci would help/save you if a ground connection existed to the case. as im sure you know a gfci would trigger without a ground connection, if the current between hot and neutral differ they " interrupt ". sorry if I'm being annoying I swear I'm just in it for valid factual knowledge. if I'm wrong I like to know why I'm wrong so I can better grasp where/what it was that misled me. appreciate the replies so far cheers!

Hi there! Is using 16 awg wire for this fine? Thank you!

Hi Do you know if TS12 will work as is with heat gun handle ?

mand do you know that you dont have to drill it or file it to grouund it?

@EEforEveryone

4 жыл бұрын

Hi Informedia, It's possible that you're right, with a good star washer, the filing may have not been necessary! The point was just to break through the black anodization, which adds a high-resistance oxide layer to the outside of the metal! cheers, and thank you for watching!

Hello friend, I have seen your video and I find it very interesting, I have the following problem with my station ksger t12 ver 2.0 of hw, I put the tips and it gets red hot, some way to solve that error on the board, thanks

This was one of the first things I did (12ga wire) along with removing the resistor for the battery and added a 2032 battery holder mounted inside the case vertically, so a battery change is very easy now. I absolutely love my KSGER station. Way better than my $200 Weller station any day. Forgot to mention, I aslo added some hot snot to the caps as mine were floating a bit Thanks for sharing

@EEforEveryone

4 жыл бұрын

Hi Night Rider, thanks for watching, and i'm glad you made a similar mod! I'm really happy with my station as well. The performance is great, but it's really a shame that they're shipping product that isn't ground bonded. Cheers!

Great video. I plan on buying a similar unit but a version in a plastic case that connects to an external power supply (24VDC/3Amps), this way I can use a CSA certified power supply and avoid this risk and also I can use the power supply for other projects if need be. I was wondering how do I make such a DC powered unit ESD safe since it gets the power from a barrel connector with only 2 pins ? Thank you.

@EEforEveryone

4 жыл бұрын

Hello Dicofole, Thanks for watching, and Great Question!!! First of all, you're thinking about this problem in an excellent way, with regard to safety. This sounds like a fantastic plan! With regard to ESD safeness, here are some general truths: -"ESD Safe" devices generally provide a slow return path to earth ground. Something in the 1-10Mohm range. ESD Straps, ESD Mats, they all do this because it prevents the damage that comes from rapid discharge. - I have used ESD Safe soldering irons that have the tip tied hard to earth ground. My guess is they're relying on the ESD mat to provide that discharge path, assuming all charge is neutralized before the top comes in contact with the PCB. So, what does that mean for your soldering iron? If you're working at a Static safe workstation with ESD mat and wrist strap, I would probably lean towards tying the tip of the soldering iron to earth ground. (0 ohms) If you're not, the rapid discharge through the soldering iron tip may do more ESD harm than good, and I'd consider a low M-Ohm tie to earth ground. This would provide a safe discharge path for ESD Energy accumulating on the PCB... assuming it didn't already jump over to you. :) Some ESD safe irons go for the hard tie, others have a special discharge circuit likely containing some combination of resistor, capacitor, perhaps a MOV, others are designed to have the tip floating! However, it's difficult for us to validate ESD safeness of a floating tip. There are tests that can be run, but not without sophisticated test equipment. You'll likely need to run a third conductor which provides some kind of connection to proper earth ground. This can be through a dedicated wire bringing earth ground from an electrical outlet. I hope this helps!

Thank you for the video I was about to purchase a similar clone but wanted more info I'm going against the purchase seeing how I'm not as informed and would like a much safer option

@EEforEveryone

3 жыл бұрын

Hello SANHEK, thanks for the comment, and thanks for watching! The STM32 irons aren't necessarily dangerous, but the isolation of the ac-dc power supply is critical, and a plastic enclosure helps a lot, if it's make of fire-retardant plastic. The critical pieces are isolation to mains, keeping potential fires contained, and ensuring exposed metal is ground bonded. Best of luck in your search for a safe soldering iron!

@c2ironfist

3 жыл бұрын

@@EEforEveryone Actually the other day I made a purchase for this unit Shopped around and I couldn't find anything better for the price Because of the information in this video I can at least make the unit safer The mod isn't really all that hard so thanks again :)

it's crazy. mine is fully grounded but alot of units are not.

Is your other iron grounded? the yellow and blue one, because I'm thinking of buying one as a cheap iron for occasional use.

@EEforEveryone

3 жыл бұрын

Hello Jar! The yellow and blue iron comes as a kit with the iron shown here. There are a lot of great soldering stations that use the "T12" tips and a plastic enclosure / grounded enclosure / a safer power supply! Unfortunately, I don't have the name of one off the top of my head. My guess is that if it looks similar, it's probably electrically similar or made in the same factory. One thing I do to stay safer is to use a GFCI power strip to power anything I don't trust. :) I hope this helps!

It is strange. I have exactly the same KSGER station, and it is grounded.

Is the tip isolated with ground? I saw my hakko 936 the tip goes first through a resistor of 1Mohm then to ground connector wall. Is this the case for this station? I am going to work with Iphones.

@EEforEveryone

2 жыл бұрын

Hello Ed, the tip is currently tied hard to ground (

@svsv9

2 жыл бұрын

@@EEforEveryone This the only budget well known T12 station, some say KU tips won't work, who knows? But my surprise KU tips are very useful on "microsoldering". Thanks.

Some are not ground on the casing, but tip is usually grounded for ESD protection. Being metal they sure have grounded it for sure, they likely just throw it together without think as they make these same stations in plastic casing as well? Looking at your video see a way worst design flaw then the lack of case grounding? That is lack of primary and secondary isolation? What gets me is the fact they when through the trouble of PCB isolation slots for primary and secondary and then soldered in a large heat sink by the 68uf 400v capacitor that goes directly to secondary supply of power supply, to make matter worst is that heat sink lay right on top of the main primary traces on the PCB, which means the creep distance is as much as the solder mask thickness? Saw that when you turned the power supply to the side and see the traces running to the primary side. Who designed this?

@EEforEveryone

4 жыл бұрын

Ha! This tip isn't grounded for sure: just tied to the circuit reference voltage.(not my favorite). As far as primary-secondary isolation this is galvanically isolated... Though I'm not sure how much voltage the power supply can withstand from primary to secondary. It only takes a few mm to have a big impact, but I agree: more separation is better! I'm fairly convinced that some folks in China throw a bunch of these together without putting too much thought into it. :) There are lots of versions of this available: with or without power supplies, pre-assembled or in pieces. I'm sure you can find one in a plastic enclosure! Lol, who designed this indeed. Thanks for watching!

@thetechgenie7374

4 жыл бұрын

@@EEforEveryone That a shame I figured they would have at least grounded the tip? Lol floating ground. As you stated they likely just throw them together to get out the door. I even seen one where they misspelled ESD safe and put LSD safe. Likely what the person was on that designed it. Ordered the Quecoo version of it, I have to see what I find when I get it, I will mod it if I have to, at least I see a ground wire going from PSU to front panel controller and PSU looks better?

@EEforEveryone

4 жыл бұрын

Yeah, unfortunately not... At least on my iron! Grounding the tip should be a pretty simple mod. Tying circuit ground to earth through a few megaohms should keep things esd safe. I think my old iron had a low-impedance bond. Not sure what's normal or standard, but either way would probably be fine. Better than floating at least! "LSD safe" soldering iron, ha! That's rich.

Yep safety first.

@EEforEveryone

4 жыл бұрын

Hi Dave, I'm glad you agree. Thanks for watching!

Is that all u didn't show after screw the side to bottom with wire! Did u solder it to the ground?

@EEforEveryone

3 жыл бұрын

Hi Rez, We tied a ground wire to the power inlet, and connected that to both halves of the enclosure with a wire (crimp ring terminal) I hope this helps!

@alireza071

3 жыл бұрын

@@EEforEveryone thanks

Pretty sure these units are Anodized Aluminum so the chassis should not be conductive. At least, I think that was the thought process in design.

@EEforEveryone

4 жыл бұрын

Ooh boy! I'd love to see what CSA or UL would have to say about that. :) I didn't think about it that way before... Maybe you're right!

@Doyle69

3 жыл бұрын

@@EEforEveryone Was still worth doing, if its a cheap anodise, some material may still be exposed that you cant see and shock you, good work :)

@AaronAubreyPhoto

3 жыл бұрын

In a different vid, someone barely scratched off the anodized paint w their test leads and it was conductive.. very dangerous!!

@Bobo-ox7fj

Жыл бұрын

don't forget the worn coatings on the screws after the very first time you turn them!

Simply cut the Y caps to chassis then there will be no leakage current to soldering iron tip

Could you bypass the transformer and run a 24 volt transformer straight to the circuit?

@EEforEveryone

3 жыл бұрын

Hello C Jones! This circuit requires DC, rather than AC, so a transformer could be used.. with a rectifier and some output capacitors! Unfortunately, straight AC won't do the trick.

@cjones4433

3 жыл бұрын

@@EEforEveryone Thank you. I guess I was too broad with my question. What I will be using is a dc brick (or wallwart) for a computer rated at 24 volts. Just like the TS100. It's got a 24 volt transformer. I wonder what amperage the KSGER needs.

@alejandroperez5368

3 жыл бұрын

@@cjones4433 What did you end up doing? There's a mini version of this soldering station without the built-in power supply. However, for some reason it's rated at 24V 3A max, I would like why it's not rated at 5A.

sorry to ask but, if the case is not conductive, you will not get shocked, why add the "earth wire" to the case? The PCB is already grounded. Many thanks! Jorge

@EEforEveryone

4 жыл бұрын

Hello Jorge! Thank you for the great question! Protective earth is very important to protect against faults. You're correct, that if everything is operating normally this wire serves no purpose (carries no current). However, if a live wire were to break (mains) and happen to touch the metal chassis... this creates a dangerous situation. If somebody notices their soldering iron no longer works (because the case is live) and decides to touch it (maybe to check the power switch) they could be shocked or electrocuted!! The added "earth wire" would cause a circuit breaker to trip in this fault condition, and protect a user. I hope this helps!

@alejandroperez5368

3 жыл бұрын

@@EEforEveryone It would only if there's a proper earth connection in the outlet and electrical system.

IMHO you should solder or put a ring terminal large enough to fit under the barrel connector that interfaces with the soldering iron and anodized plate. 5 ohms is not much, but, hey, you're in there - could have made it 0 ohms :)

@EEforEveryone

3 жыл бұрын

Fair point, Jon! Yeah.. what we did is better than nothing... but definitely not as good as it could be, and not up to most safety standards. Even a simple star washer could help a lot! Great thoughts, and yes, 0 Ohms would be great!

you've grounded the enclosure?

I think the new 3.1S version is well grounded.

@EEforEveryone

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the heads-up ALEX! I'll have to get one in the lab and check it out!

Just bought one of these. For clarity - You cut the wire connected to each half of the case in half, and then soldered both ends to the ground lug of the plug?

@EEforEveryone

4 жыл бұрын

Hello Baxrok, thanks for watching! Yeah, I drilled a couple holes in the enclosure, added a new wire. This wire is connected electrically to both enclosure halves though crimp ring terminals and screws. (That's the wire I later cut in half) then, both wires were soldered to the ground lug of the plug. Be careful to make good solder joints, moving the wire while a joint cools can lead to a cold solder joint, which may be brittle and crack! If you can do a ground bond test to make sure everything is set up right, that's awesome. At the very least, check the resistance between the ground terminal at the plug and each part of the enclosure, like we did! Now the hard part... Soldering your soldering iron with a soldering iron. :) Heh. Cheers, and happy soldering!

@baxrok2.

4 жыл бұрын

@@EEforEveryone Thank you.

Is it the same with quicko?

@EEforEveryone

4 жыл бұрын

Hi Max, thanks for the comment! I'm not sure about "quicko". Is that another brand of cheap soldering irons?

@maxd6178

4 жыл бұрын

@@EEforEveryone Yes, they look almost the same and uses t12 tips but the psu look a little bit different.

@EEforEveryone

4 жыл бұрын

@@maxd6178 Interesting! I see a few of these for sale by the usual suspects. You're right, they look almost identical! My best guess is that these are clones of one another, but that is just wild speculation.

Hi I just read on wikipedia that anodised aluminium is non conductive so think that's what they where thinking when they designed it

@EEforEveryone

3 жыл бұрын

Hello David! Perhaps you're right about what they were thinking... the subtext in your comment seems to suggest you're leaning to my side of the fence. The non-conductive nature breaks down the second a hole gets drilled, a scratch gets made, etc. I know metal feels great, but... building products like this seems like a great way to get sued. Cheers, and thanks for watching!

Let's ground our Chassis for safety! Any broken wire touching it will still not be able to bleed off its current into it due to the anodization but hey we did something and uploaded it to KZread. IDK man... I get where you're coming from, but this MOD made like no sense given the argument of a potentially loose/broken wire coming into contact with the housing...

Past 8:00 the sound begins to get out of sync with the video :)

@EEforEveryone

4 жыл бұрын

oh boy... I didn't notice... :) oops. Thanks for letting me know, and thank you for watching!

The hot air variant of this type of product is no better. Not only is the aluminium housing not earthed/grounded the exposed metallic portion of the wand isn't either.

How big is the chance of hot wire being flying inside that box 😂😂😂

@ChVovan

3 жыл бұрын

But to be safe is a good feature to have)

@EEforEveryone

3 жыл бұрын

I'm honestly not sure! I'd rather not find out with my hand though. :) I'll let you know if I ever blow a fuse or trip a breaker!

@ChVovan

3 жыл бұрын

@@EEforEveryone thx, by the way, I just ordered same one, let's see if my is grounded)

@EEforEveryone

3 жыл бұрын

I hope they made some changes to the design. Let me know what you get! Btw, the black anodization has a high resistance, so make sure to check continuity from a silver part of the chassis or a screw!

That SMPS looks quite garbage.. Just by looking at the EMI filter, they've put the capacitor before the choke :) I'm planning into buying one of these, but that power supply scares me..Saw a better one on AliExpress under the brand of "Quicko", and the supply looks a lot better designed, but on that one, I can't see any separation whatsoever between the HV and LV side

@EEforEveryone

4 жыл бұрын

Hello Xander! I agree, the "design effort" put into this iron isn't particularly great... but it seems to work okay! "Quicko"... sounds good to me! I suppose, I'd rather have separation between HV and LV than a better EMI filter. :) Cheap soldering irons are always a gamble... If you buy the Quicko one, send us an image of the guts on twitter! I'd be curious to see how different it really is.

@thetechgenie7374

4 жыл бұрын

Yes that SMPS is also a death trap, that PSU really scares me on this one as notice a major flaw and that is the lack of primary and secondary isolation? What gets me is the fact they when through the trouble of PCB isolation slots for primary and secondary as did see the isolation slots by transformer, but they completely screw it up by soldering in a large heat sink by the 68uf 400v capacitor that goes directly to secondary supply of power supply, to make matter worst is that heat sink lay right on top of the main primary traces on the PCB, which means the creep distance is as much as the solder mask thickness? Saw that in his video when he turned the power supply to the side and took it out of casing and see the traces running to the primary side. Who designed this?

Ive bought one with plastic case lol

Like most Chinese electronic components,check to make sure it’s earthed, 9out of 10 times it’s not

@EEforEveryone

3 жыл бұрын

So true John... It's always worth ohming things out before powering on! I've found fuses on neutral before too. Yikes!

🖖 👍

Don't know what all the fuss is about you are in the US with it.s puny nanny state 120v... I use more than that to jump start my hamster LOL just kidding good job......

@EEforEveryone

4 жыл бұрын

Hi Tested to Destruction! Lol, this made me laugh. :) I'm sure there's a wonderful 240V version floating out there somewhere! You know, I really wish I wouldn't need to do stuff like this... But the world is a strange place. I'm glad you liked it!

Completely over the top clickbait scaremonger headline there, it IS NOT dangerous, it has POTENTIAL to be hazardous at best, thats a long shot IF it happens.

TOTAL NON-SENSE!!!!

@EEforEveryone

4 жыл бұрын

Hi Dennis, thanks for watching!

@wepipe

3 жыл бұрын

Electrocution from a poorly earthed appliance is actually a SERIOUS concern, FOOL !

@denniss9620

3 жыл бұрын

@@wepipe The soldering iron output and tip itself is fully ISOLATED FROM THE 110 LINE through power transformer and is a dc output !! The entire power line in is in a plastic fixture snapped into the housing which is not conductive which isolates it from the frame.This particular soldering station is manufactured in the thousands under various names in both assembled and in kit form with no issues and is a typical t12 type station.